Do-it-yourself arch and arched ceiling – photos, drawings and design diagrams. Choosing the right garden gate How to make a fence with an arch

Good day, dear readers!

We often receive orders for the construction of a large brick arch over the garage door.

Since the arch is large (about 3 m), it is necessary to take into account some nuances so that it is beautiful and durable.

In this article I will share my experience, namely:

Why might the arch above the garage door sag and burst?

- How to make an arch with your own hands stronger and more reliable.

1) Width and height of the arch garage doors, for a passenger car.

The arch in the photo above is 3 m wide. According to the project, the original width of the arch in the garage was supposed to be 2.5 m, but it is narrow. It is not clear why, but on many house designs, the entrance gate to the garage is 2.5 m wide.

We almost always make it wider. If possible, it is better to make the width of the entrance to the garage at least 3 m.

Gate height:

In the place where the arch begins to turn, then from the clean floor to the beginning of the arch is 2,160 mm.

In the very high place from the finished floor to the top of the arch 2,462 mm.

2) Arch radius.

Almost all customers want the arc of the arch to be minimal, but the lower the arch is positioned (lower), the weaker it is. We built a very low arch in the garage about five years ago. The height of the arc was only 200 mm, the width of the gate was about 3 m, and the height was a brick (double).

After 3 years, the arch sagged a little and a small hairline crack appeared above it. Of course she won’t fall, but it’s still not nice that it happened this way.

Therefore, in this article we are making the arch a little higher - 312 mm. This is the height of the arch from its beginning to its highest point.

We make a wooden template for the arch from chipboard, insert it for volume wooden blocks and nail the fiberboard on top with small nails.

We will remove the wooden template on the same day that we rolled out the arch. To do this, before building the arch, it is necessary to build refuge grooves so that you can quickly crimp the brick arch and remove the template.

We present the template.

After we built the refuge fines, made a template, and installed it in the opening.

A nuance: if we want to roll the arch and remove the template on the same day, it is best to start in the morning. So that the brick arch stands for 4 - 5 hours and the mortar sets.

If the materials from which the arch will be built are cleaned of the mortar normally, then you can remove the arch the next day. Cleaning the arch the next day will take twice as long, since the mortar becomes stronger every day.

It is also necessary to pay attention to the weight of our arch, since we used ordinary edged shalevka (board thickness 25 mm) as supports. If the arch is wide, low, double in height (brick), then it can have decent weight.

To prevent the template from breaking and to ensure that the racks can withstand it, it is better to estimate the approximate weight of the arch. In our case, the brick in the arch with mortar will weigh approximately 270 kg. The template weighs about 30 kg.

There will be approximately 150 kg of pressure on each rack. In principle, this is not a lot of weight. It is necessary to pay attention that there is no debris under the racks and that they fit tightly to the base so that the new arch does not sag.

4) Make the heels of the arch.

First of all, we make the heels of the arch, on which the arch will rest.

But here one nuance arises. To make such a beautiful heel, you need to slightly trim two bricks so that the arch sits a little lower.

Using a grinder, we cut one brick on the window frame (horizontal) and one on a wooden template. We do the same for the second heel on the left. Nothing complicated.

If you don’t cut anything, then the body of the brick will not be enough and small triangles will appear in the very corner of the heel (outside).

Before you start building an arch, you need to calculate the number of bricks that will go into the arch, so as not to trim the brick, but so that it is all intact. Since our arch is very large, we can easily play with the seams, namely, make them a little thicker or a little thinner.

We can also make an even or odd number of bricks if necessary. Usually this is calculated if it is necessary to insert a crown (three bricks) in the middle of the arch, then it is necessary to lay an odd number of bricks.

It is also advisable to make not very thick seams on large arches. The bottom seam, where the brick touches the wooden template, the thickness of the seam is desirable from 3 mm to 6 mm. So, we measure the top of the template with a tape measure and see that 45 bricks fit (not counting the heels). Seam thickness (bottom) 5 mm.

If necessary, we can reduce the thickness of the seam by only 1.5 mm and squeeze another brick into the arch (46 pieces). Or, on the contrary, increase the thickness of the seam by 1.5 mm and reduce the number of bricks in the arch by one piece (44 bricks). Visually it will be beautiful either way.

After everything has been calculated, we mark on the template using a tape measure and a pencil the marks every five bricks. These risks will help you maintain order and lay the amount of brick in the arch that we decided.

We build an arch from the heels to the center, adhering to the marked marks through five bricks.

In the middle we place the last brick called the key brick.

Particular attention must be paid to sealing the last seam in the key brick so that it is properly sealed.

To remove the template on the same day, you need to crimp the arch with a facing brick.

An important point: the weakest point is near the arch. Since there is a large opening (gate) in the wall, it weakens the wall.

Please note that in most old buildings (one and five-story) there are almost always cracks under the windows and in the openings on the outer walls. Large windows and receptions weaken the wall.

Therefore, for strength, we lay over the arch in brickwork fittings, diameter 6 mm. In total, we have three rows of bricks above the arch and one rod of reinforcement (6 mm) can be placed in each row. Length of reinforcement from pilaster to pilaster.

Since the reinforcement is smooth (has no ribs), it clings weaker to the brickwork. Therefore, it is best to bend the ends of the reinforcement (like the letter “p” with a tail).

Now an interesting point: note that above the arch the yellowish brick (straight) is cut. That is, 7 light bricks in the middle, above the arch, in each row are cut with a grinder and have a size of 220 mm. This is because I made a mistake when laying a brick at the bottom of the gate (under the ventilation).

When we started crimping the arch, we didn’t end up with a multiple of 50 mm above it. If we had not cut off seven bricks in each row, we would have had a small checkmark measuring 50 mm above the arch, and this is not acceptable, since it immediately catches the eye.

Since the distance between the pilasters is not a multiple of a whole brick, it was necessary to make not a checkerboard (50 mm), but a three-four (170 mm) above the arch. But if we had placed one three-four in each row above the arch, then this would also be striking.

It was planned to make not just one three-four, but, for example, three above the arch in each row, so that it would not be so noticeable.

Summary: I’m sure you didn’t notice in the first (top) photo that the brick above the arch is cut. Thanks to this small trick (trimming the bricks), you can correct flaws in the masonry of the walls so that there are no marks and everything is visually beautiful.

The more three-fours you cut, the less noticeable the imperfections of the facing masonry will be.

6) We make a reinforced concrete belt over the arch.

After we have built the facing brickwork, we need to tie the backfill together inside the garage with a reinforced concrete belt.

The front arch protrudes 40 mm from the outside and extends 90 mm inside. Unfortunately, we cannot insulate the wall above the arch itself. All external walls of the garage are insulated with mineral wool, but it does not work above the arch; we will consider the reason below:

The gates for this garage will be automatic, sectional, and lift up. The door leaf is a sandwich panel with insulation inside.

In the photo above we see backing bricks in the corners above the arch - we did this for alignment. Since this backing brick above the arch will be visible (when the gate is open), it must be faced with either tiles or paintable plaster.

Therefore, we recessed the backing brick a little so that the cladding (tile or plaster) was flush with the facing masonry (it will become clearer later).

In the photo above you see that the reinforcement frame breaks off above the arch, but you cannot break the belt! Therefore, instead of a frame, we place a vertical mesh of reinforcement above the arch.

We make the mesh over the arch from the same reinforcement as the frame with a diameter of 12 mm. In the frame we have four strands of ribbed reinforcement, in the mesh we also make four strands, but vertically.

We place the formwork over the arch:

We remove the formwork after 2 – 3 days
The result was a wonderful reinforced concrete belt. The belt above the arch is no worse than the belt on the walls. The top of the garage is well connected.

Why did we recess the reinforced concrete belt above the arch?

The fact is that the gate leaf will go into this niche and, when closing, will be adjacent to the acre and the niche. If you make a reinforced concrete belt over the arch the same as on the walls, then the gate will not close.

Second option: you can make a reinforced concrete belt the same width as on the walls, then it (reinforced concrete) must be made 300 mm higher. Then it is necessary to lift the entire garage up by 300 mm, and this is an extra cost overrun.

The garage floor will be wooden, the roof will also be wooden, and the roof will be metal tiles.

Conclusion.

As a result, we ended up with a beautiful and durable arch over the garage door. In front masonry, the arch is tied with reinforcement and tied inside with a reinforced concrete belt.

Today in this article you learned how to make an arch with your own hands.

Garden arches are often used to frame a path, as in this case, or they can be used to decorate the entrance to the garden. Installed alternately, the arches emphasize the calm and comfort of the alley. Of course, if the size allows. Sometimes these structures serve as symbolic boundaries of plots. If the arch is not passable, a bench installed under the arch will look very cozy. Here you can relax pleasantly, especially under the shade of blooming greenery.

Arches are made from different materials, from solid ones made of stone and brick, to simple airy structures made of reinforcement rods. Let's look at the last option.

Rebar arch

In general, you take the mesh, cut the canvas to size and secure the edges with wire. The most modern and convenient way, is to secure the edges with a wire spiral with locking pins.
We need a combined gabion, which will consist of three parts. Two standard boxes and a smaller one between them (the support will be attached there). But you can make one large gabion with a recess.

For the arch itself we will need 4 two-meter beams, two 80cm cross beams, slats for the grooves and two sheets of galvanized mesh, two meters long and half a meter wide.

Now in order:

• Using a router we make slots for the trellis mesh in the cross beams
• We fasten the vertical posts with screws to the cross beams
• For strength, we fix the crossbar and rack with triangular brackets
• Along the supports we attach two slats with a distance of 4 - 5 mm, this gap will be a groove for attaching the mesh
• Installing the mesh in the grooves
• We fill the boxes with stones so that the support posts are securely fixed.
• We secure the mesh sheets to the dome with wire.

Arches are created for climbing plants, no matter what you make it from, so you don’t have to worry too much if the design turns out to be less than ideal. Then all you have to do is choose plants for the arch.

The simplest and most maintenance-free are ivy and grapes. Ivy is an evergreen plant, unpretentious and frost-resistant, so it will decorate your arch all year round. True, ivy grows quite slowly, so only after a few years it will be possible to admire the result. If you don't want to wait, plant grapes, there are plenty decorative varieties, for example, maiden, its leaves are very beautiful in autumn or Coigne, with beautiful carved leaves.

Good afternoon, website subscribers. In today's article we will look at instructions on how to make garden arches with your own hands, but first and foremost, let's first figure out what it is. Garden arches for flowers are an element of the design of a summer cottage in which your country life is filled with new colors and impressions of your guests from amazing plants, with which your country house will be filled after the construction of garden arches on the site.

In this article we will consider not only the decorative component, but also get acquainted with technical issues, allowing us to make a structure for our arch, so let’s begin.

Garden arch frame made of wood

Of course, it is best to choose plants to cover the arch from beautiful and climbing plants, then this will allow you to fully realize your plans and enjoy the beautiful appearance of the garden arch.

To make the frame we will need:

• 4 beams 10*10 cm, in order to make supports and build walls for the arch:
• 2 boards to create the roof of our arch;
• 4 slats 3 meters each - this is necessary in order to fill the void between the wall supports.

The wood must be well dried so that there is no deformation after the installation process.

Making a bend in a garden arch

This photo shows step-by-step technology manufacturing the forming profile of the arch. It is worth noting that this is a fairly simple technology. First you need to create a template for the upper element of the arch, it can be made of cardboard.

How to fit a garden arch into the design of a summer cottage

Indeed, the arch is ready, there are only two things left - installing the arch and attaching plants to the arch. Let's start in order, it is best to install a garden arch at the entrance to your garden, it will look like this.

Another interesting option design solution- This is a wicker arch. The wicker arch is quite interesting option decor, but you can read about it yourself.

Wicker arch - fence

In addition, a wooden horizontal arch that can be used as an entrance to the garden will fit very well into the design of a summer cottage.

It is worth noting that there are not only arches of a certain shape and size, no, everything does not end there, for example, there are long horizontal arches that can be inscribed along, so let’s look.

If you have not yet decided how to fit a garden arch into the design of your summer cottage, we suggest you interesting way making a Garden Arch in the form of a gazebo, yes, exactly in the form. It's pretty interesting view registration summerhouse, he is quite distinguished simple technology and also impressive appearance.

And finally, let's see how to make a frame for a garden arch from timber.

What plants to weave around a garden arch?

As a choice of plants for a garden arch, climbing plants are perfect for it. perennials, which in their structure form interesting and beautiful curls, for example:

1. Hop;
2. Grape;
3. Peas (sweet peas);
4. Chinese lemongrass:
5. Honeysuckle;
6. Climbing rose;
7. Clematis.

Video - do-it-yourself garden arch for flowers made of metal

When you get an apartment, you undoubtedly want to make it cozier, more comfortable and larger. Nowadays, one of the ways to make your home appear larger is to create arches instead of doors.

Various photos of arches show how diverse they are and how much they change the appearance of a home. How to make an arch with your own hands will be briefly described below.

Types of arches

An arch is an opening in a wall that does not have a ceiling in the form of a door. Their types differ only in the upper part, or more precisely in how the corners are constructed (straight, rounded or curly).

IN modern world There are 7 types of arches:

• classic;
• "modern";
• "romance";
• ellipse;
• trapezoid;
• "portal";
• semi-arch.

The first four types have rounded corners and differ only in the shape of the rounding.

So a classic arch is a semicircle with a radius of half the width of the opening; “modern” has a small corner radius; “romantic” and ellipse are similar to each other and represent ordinary rounded corners.

The trapezoid and the portal are another matter. These two types use sharp corners. In a trapezoid, the top accordingly represents this figure, and the “portal” is an ordinary opening without a door.

However, even an unremarkable “portal” can be made to sparkle with new colors, giving the supports the appearance of columns in the ancient style (Greek or Roman).

Although the trapezoid is quite unusual solution, but it will not suit any style, so it is used much less often than other arch options.

The last type is a semi-arch, as the name implies, it consists of 1 rounded and 1 right angle. This type of arch began to be used recently, but it has already gained popularity.

It is up to you to decide which arch to install in your apartment, but we will dwell in more detail on arches made of plasterboard, as the most convenient material for construction.

Step-by-step instructions for creating an arch

We choose the future shape of the arch. It is important that it matches the overall style of the premises that will connect.

We clean the opening from the plaster and level it. It’s simple here - the cleaner the surface of the work, the more reliable the fastening.

We fasten the arch frame. We construct the frame itself from a profile (possibly from wooden blocks).

We attach a cut out plasterboard arch (one side) to the frame. To get the arch the desired type, in the middle of the plasterboard base we make a hole for a nail. We tie a string to it and get a homemade compass. Now, by changing the length of the rope, you can change the radius of rounding of the corners and their appearance.

We apply drywall on the other side and mark an arch on it, as if on a stencil, then cut it out and attach it to the frame.

Under no circumstances should this be done on the floor, since the opening is usually asymmetrical, which has the most detrimental effect on the accuracy of the one-to-one markings.

Pay attention!

We measure the resulting arc and use the profile to make a tape for fastening. After this, we attach the resulting tape to the arch arch using self-tapping screws.

We install jumpers. Their size is calculated simply: the depth of the arch is minus 1.5 centimeters, the material of manufacture is a metal profile, less often wood. We attach a sheet of drywall to the end of the opening with self-tapping screws.

We carry out finishing work(we smooth it out with putty, fill in possible holes, paint or glue wallpaper).

Other ways to make an arch

You can also make an arch in the opening in two other ways. The difference between these methods of creating an arch is in the fastening of drywall.

In the second option, it is attached to the jumpers not with a whole sheet, but with specially cut pieces (set) using a special solution (water, putty plus PVA glue) and this must be done without delay, since the solution hardens very quickly.

Pay attention!

The third option involves wooden lintels mounted on glue. Drywall in the opening to the lintels is also glued.

How to bend drywall?

In addition, the question may arise: how to bend drywall? Thin cardboard (6 mm) is best suited for this.

And there are at least 2 ways to bend it:
Method 1 - roll a roller on cardboard to break the plaster in it, soak it in water and gradually screw it to the tape with self-tapping screws.

Method 2 – make cuts on the drywall every 4-5 centimeters. When you attach it to the end of the opening, the material will burst at the places where the cuts are made and will adhere better to the wall surface.

We wish you good luck in completing your work!

Photo of the arch with your own hands

Pay attention!