Rose disease. Rose diseases methods and means for treatment and prevention

Protecting roses from diseases is a subject of constant and inevitable concern for every gardener. To prevent problems, it is important to first select disease-resistant varieties. Some roses are often susceptible to black spot or powdery mildew, and such genetic reality cannot be changed by either chemical or organic means. If you use the same chemical fungicide, pathogens will develop immunity to it.

Prevention of any rose diseases begins with the pruning period. will be more resilient than one that is left with frost-damaged wood and many thin shoots in the middle of the bush. Such shoots will grow weak, and the disease will approach them first. During the pruning period, fallen leaves are removed, on which pathogens usually remain.

It is important to limit surface watering in the morning hours so that the foliage can dry well - this will also prevent disease. Chemical fertilizers with a high nitrogen content cause rapid growth of the plant, which as a result becomes a victim of real powdery mildew, so they must be used carefully.

Some areas show little rust, and black spot is rare in hot, dry climates. But any rose disease, the symptoms of which are given below, can, under suitable conditions, appear in every area and indiscriminately affect all the bushes in the garden.

The most common diseases of roses: prevention, methods of combating them

To properly treat a flower, you must first determine the type of disease based on the symptoms and causes of their occurrence, and then decide what measures need to be taken. Next, we will consider the main diseases to which roses are susceptible.

Black spot, which is extremely unpleasant and harmful to roses, is caused by a fungus whose spores, unfortunately, are very resistant. The foliage on rose bushes becomes unattractive. Black spotting appears on the upper and lower sides of the leaf, especially on the lower branches close to the ground. Looking closely, it is easy to notice the spots have rays and wavy edges. Gradually, the leaves of infected roses turn yellow and fall off.

If the foliage is severely damaged by black spot, the bush remains almost bare. Although many roses are strong enough to regrow foliage, only a few are able to withstand a second attack of the disease. Roses entering winter in this form run the risk of freezing. This is why black spot killed significantly more roses in winter than in summer.

Black spot is especially dangerous in rainy weather, since the spores of the pathogenic fungus actively develop on the damp surface of the leaves. It is important to remember this when practicing surface watering.

Such watering is useful for roses, but it is better not to do it if the sun does not have time to dry the foliage before nightfall. Of course, if the roses are wet by rain at night, black spots may also appear on them. It has been noticed that roses are not susceptible to black spot if they are constantly exposed to artificial fog. In greenhouses, this is exactly the technique used to protect roses from black spot, but for most gardens such a solution is unsuitable.

The predisposition to black spot has passed to most roses through genetic inheritance from the species Rosa foetida, which gave them a yellow color. This is why they are more susceptible to black spot than others. And the old once-blooming European roses: Damask, centifolia and French varieties are rarely affected by this scourge.

If there is black spot in the garden, it is very difficult to get rid of it. Prevention is through thorough cleaning of the garden, since the spores of the fungus that causes the disease are stored in fallen leaves. Intensive is also a kind of treatment for the disease; it prevents black spotting if it appeared in the garden a year earlier.

The disease most often affects weak shoots, which need to be pruned first.

Interestingly, in the fifties and sixties of the 20th century, black spot almost completely disappeared from parks in large cities, which, oddly enough, was facilitated by air pollution. There were few complaints from growers about black spot back then, and plant breeders weren't too worried about it. Nowadays, air pollution levels have decreased, and gardeners have discovered that many roses bred during this period are especially susceptible to this disease.

An alternative to chemical fungicides is the Cornella preparation, used in accordance with the instructions. It is based on potassium bicarbonate; it is marketed under the name GreenCure. This remedy is good as a preventative, but in case of a severe outbreak of the disease, such treatment will be ineffective.

Powdery mildew is a disease of roses characteristic of the middle zone

This fungal disease is widespread in middle lane in conditions of high humidity. In rainy summers, powdery mildew always appears. The infection is transmitted by air, most often affecting young shoots. The disease can also break out in late period rose season when warm days abruptly give way to cold nights. The leaves and young shoots of a diseased plant become distorted and discolored, and are covered with a white powdery coating. With severe damage, the buds become deformed and do not open completely. The disease affects any rose, but bushes with young shoots are especially affected, and less so are low-growing varieties.

Proper air circulation around roses helps prevent this disease. It is well known that roses growing in open space are less likely to get sick than those growing in close proximity. For example, a rose weaving along a slatted or mesh fence is almost always healthier than one mounted on the wall of a building. On hot days, shallow watering can interrupt or slow the progression of infection. Of course, it will no longer be possible to restore the affected areas of the roses. But since signs of infection make themselves felt first in the upper part of the plant, you just need to trim off heavily infected areas without harming the rest of the bush.

GreenCure is a treatment for rose disease and provides protection if applied before signs of infection appear. Some homemade solutions of bicarbonate of soda are equally effective. However, a concentrated soda solution burns unhealthy areas, which does not add beauty to the plant.

Like true powdery mildew, downy mildew is caused by fungi, but the two diseases differ significantly, which is clearly visible with a magnifying glass. With true powdery mildew, the mycelium of the fungus spreads along the outside of the leaf, and with false mildew, it settles on the back side and then grows deeper. Downy mildew can quickly destroy a rose. It appears on the leaves and stems of roses in the form of brown spots with a lilac tint; the fluffy coating is visible only under a microscope. Downy mildew infection often begins at the top. Diseased leaves fall off with a light touch, and with a strong touch, roses lose all their foliage.

Hybrid teas and miniature varieties, they also suffer from it. Unfortunately, downy mildew is becoming more common, and its spread is partly the fault of nurseries. Nature has established a barrier to the development of infection: at temperatures above +30°C, which persist for at least a day, the fungus dies. At constant temperatures of about +30°C and above, downy mildew remains passive. However, if this temperature does not last a day, the mycelium of the fungus is activated with the arrival of cool weather.

Some inventive rose growers combat downy mildew by connecting garden hoses to water heaters, but this is not a safe method.

Rose growers, relying on chemicals to control the disease, have returned to the zinc-based fungicides popular in the 1960s.

With this disease, orange-brown spots are visible on the undersides of the leaves and stems of the rose. Plants heavily infected with the rust fungus lose their foliage, sometimes rapidly. The development of rust is favored by cool, damp weather in summer and mild winters, which occurs in the middle zone. If the winter is severe, the disease rarely appears. Rust targets vintage garden roses, such as centifolia and, but then spreads to modern ones.

You can prevent the spread of rust by cutting off infected shoots. Cut infected branches must be burned. They cannot be used in compost.

The rust pathogen, like many others, overwinters on fallen leaves, so the garden must be regularly and thoroughly cleaned. During an outbreak, it is recommended to use any product that is effective against black spot, including the new bicarbonate products.

Botrytis (grey mold)

The fungus that causes botrytis, or gray mold, appears in cool and rainy weather. First, gray mold becomes noticeable on the rose buds; as a result, with severe damage, the buds do not bloom.

It is interesting that peculiar wines are made from botrytis-infected grapes; those affected by the harmful rose fungus do not have any compensating properties.

Tea and multi-petalled varieties are most susceptible to the disease. The disease usually appears in the fall, at the end of the rose blooming season. Gray mold loves dampness and greatly progresses in rainy weather with thickened plantings - remove excess shoots in a timely manner.

Most rose growers combat botrytis by pruning infected buds. They are removed from the site in hermetically sealed bags to prevent fungal spores from spreading. Recently, effective chemicals have appeared because it was not possible to solve the problem with organics.

The most dangerous disease of roses, first makes itself felt by the appearance of yellow and brownish lesions on the shoot. Over time, they darken and deepen, and the shoot dies. The cancer-causing fungus is present in many soils, but in the garden it becomes a real disaster. Infection almost always occurs as a result of mechanical damage to a rose shoot: sometimes the grower is to blame, but more often a neighboring shoot leaves a mark with a thorn, swaying in the wind.

Infected stems should be cut out and burned immediately. Most fungicides, chemical or organic, prevent the disease from spreading from the stems to the leaves. If cancer infects leaves, small spots and large brown spots with a purple tint form on them, which can easily be mistaken for downy mildew.

Root cancer appears as a growth at the base of the bush. Rather, it is a bacterial disease on the root collar, at the grafting site. In any case, the growth forms at the point where the shoots come into contact with the ground. The disease can affect any rose, but plants on clay and poorly drained soils are most at risk.

Industry produces as a treatment for rose disease effective drug to combat bacteria that cause root canker. However, many gardeners have success using a household disinfectant and treating contaminated areas with it. They pour 200-250 ml of undiluted disinfectant onto the affected area, avoiding it getting on the leaves.

The cancerous growth must be cut off with a sharp knife. If the growth breaks into pieces, they must be carefully collected and removed from the garden. In many cases, the plant survives after such treatment. The dead bush is dug up before planting. new rose Be sure to replace the soil in the planting hole. The instrument used to make the growth is disinfected.

Rose mosaic is caused by a virus that spreads during the breeding process. The disease appears in a variety of patterns yellow color on rose leaves. Sometimes an infestation only becomes apparent when the plant experiences heat or drought stress.

It must be said that many diseases primarily affect young and weakened plants, plants that are not carefully and properly cared for.

Powdery mildew

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Oidium, Sphaeroteca, Microsphaera, etc. - a common fungal disease. This disease not only weakens and depresses the plant, but also often leads to death. It appears in a characteristic white (flour-like) coating on the leaves, mainly on their upper side, then on the stems and buds. Poorly ventilated areas, excess fertilizer and crowded plants contribute to the disease.

Control measures. In diseased plants, remove affected shoots, leaves, and buds. If the disease has spread strongly and covered all the leaves, it is easier to cut off all the shoots at the root, leaving 5 cm of stumps. After this, be sure to spray everything that remains after pruning with Topaz, also spray the ground and the walls of the pot. In addition to topaz, you can use other drugs, for example, foundationazole. Dilute fungicides according to the instructions and be sure to re-spray.

Downy mildew

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Peronospora, Plasmoparma, etc. - easily confused with a previous disease. The difference is that with downy mildew, mainly the underside of the leaf is covered with a white fluffy coating of fungal spores. And on the upper side of the leaves you can see light or purple spots. Downy mildew spreads primarily through wet leaves.

Control measures. In diseased plants, the affected shoots, leaves, buds are removed, the plant is treated with a fungicide, and each time it is better to treat the plants with different fungicides in order to prevent the occurrence of resistance (addiction) of fungi to the drug. Usually 2-3 treatments are enough.

Rose spotting

This is rather not one disease, but a group with similar symptoms, pathogens, both fungi and bacteria. At the same time, spots appear on the leaves of the plant, which grow in size as the disease spreads, merge and affect the entire leaf. The spots may be dry or wet, along the edge or over the entire surface of the leaf. In roses, this disease more often manifests itself in the second half of the growing season, which is facilitated by increased air and soil humidity, a thick crown, poor ventilation of the room, dense compacted (not loose soil in a pot.

Control measures. Removing affected leaves and shoots. Spraying with any copper-containing preparations (oxychom, hom, Bordeaux mixture) or sulfur preparations (colloidal sulfur, thiovit-jet, mancozeb, thiram), regulating watering and stopping spraying with plain water until recovery. Usually 2-3 treatments are required (including the soil surface). Please note that all fungicides containing copper leave blue or blue stains on the leaves.

With this disease, pustules form on the back of the leaf, which can be completely different color- from red or orange to dark brown, they protrude above the leaf like warts or papillomas, always round shape. Brown spots appear on the upper side of the leaf over time.

Control measures. Remove all suspicious leaves as soon as possible. Spraying with fungicides designed specifically to combat rust fungi, such as topaz. Rust of roses is promoted by keeping them in a poorly ventilated area, with high humidity and high air temperatures.

Rose pests

rose aphid

A pest that attacks both leaves and buds. The shoots and leaves curl and become covered with sticky secretions of aphids, on which the sooty fungus settles. It all looks as if there is dandruff or flakes on the plant, flowers and buds are deformed. Damaged parts become discolored, leaves curl, turn yellow and fall off. The plant is severely inhibited and stops normal development. The buds do not open, the flowers become contaminated with secretions. Aphids are especially dangerous in the spring, attacking the tips of young shoots. At home, roses can become infected through garden soil or with plants from the store.

Control measures. Remove all affected shoots, wash the foliage 2-3 times with soapy water. Then spray and water the bushes with a solution of the Aktar preparation. If the infection is very strong, for example, from cuttings taken in a garden where aphids are rampant, then it is better to soak it in an actellik solution (20 drops per 1 liter of water).

Spider mite

Previously, it was believed that too dry and warm indoor air contributes to the appearance of mites, however, this opinion has been debunked by many years of experience: roses are affected by mites in any climate, with any air humidity, they simply have an extremely high susceptibility. But in dry and hot conditions, mites reproduce many times faster than in cool and high humidity; in just 3 days they can damage an entire rose bush in a pot. Mites hide on the underside of leaves, in the axils of shoots and buds. The surface of damaged leaves is first covered with pale spots - places where cell sap is sucked out, but later they increase, solid whitish spots form, the leaves curl and fall off.

If you are not sure whether there are mites on your roses, take a magnifying glass and look at the back of the leaf - you can see the skins from the mites' molting (whitish husks), or the mites themselves: they may be almost invisible - gray, or yellow-red, brick-colored or dark brown (a variety of many species).

Control measures. Against ticks, drugs of the class of insectoacaricides or - Actelik, Neoron, Fitoverm, Apollo, Vermitek, Etisso Blattlaus-Sticks (stuck into the ground) and others are used. Since mites are highly resistant (resistant to chemicals with each new generation), medications need to be changed or alternated. If you buy a rose in a store, bring cuttings from the garden, or root a rose from a cutting (bouquet), the probability that there is a mite on it is approximately 90%, if not more. Therefore, prevention is simply mandatory: spray the leaves very carefully on all sides with phytoverm. Another method of prevention is regular hot shower. Roses tolerate contact very well hot water 53-55°C. Under strong pressure from the shower, the water washes away ticks, eggs, and cobwebs. If you carry out 4-5 procedures in a row, you can get rid of ticks without chemicals. .

Trips

This pest comes to us, most often, with garden flowers and bouquets. And high temperatures and low air humidity contribute to their faster reproduction. At home, thrips can harm roses all year round, but especially in the spring and summer.

Fungicides for the treatment of roses

Fundazol - systemic fungicide to protect plants from diseases (leaf spot, powdery mildew, etc.). Available in 10 g bags. To prepare a working solution, 1 bag is diluted in 10 liters of water. It is necessary to spray the leaves evenly.

This drug is very controversial; there is no consensus on its safety for both humans and plants. There are known cases of phytotoxicity, inhibition of plant growth from benomyl decomposition products (dibutyl urea is formed - suppresses photosynthesis processes). Therefore, it is permissible to use only a fresh drug that is not expired.

In addition, the use of foundationazole leads to the emergence of resistance in fungi not only to benomyl, but also to a number of other fungicides. And lastly, foundationol is not a panacea and is not able to cure roses immediately, completely and irrevocably. Fundazol is officially permitted in Russia (see the directory of pesticides and agrochemicals permitted in the Russian Federation).

Sulfur - its preparations are classified as insectofungicides. IN indoor floriculture Powdered sulfur is used to pollinate roses and control pests (mainly mites and powdery mildew). Quite an effective drug. Can be purchased at a gardening store under the name "colloidal sulfur" or "Tiovit-Jet". If you have signs of disease on your roses, sulfur preparations are the very first thing you can try for treatment.

Agat-25K is a biological preparation for protecting plants from diseases and increasing productivity. Increases seed germination, enhances the development of the root system. It is successfully used for indoor plants as a prophylactic and light fertilizer. Active substance- inactivated bacteria Pseudomonas aureofaciens, biologically active substances plant and microbial origin, macro- and microelements. Available in the form of a flowing paste in 10g bottles. 1 measuring spoon of the drug is diluted in 3 liters of water until completely dissolved, then the plants are sprayed three to four times with an interval of 20 days.

Insecticides for the treatment of roses

Fitoverm is an insectoacaricide; within 6-8 hours after treatment, gnawing pests stop feeding (for sucking pests, this time is extended to 12-16 hours). It must be taken into account that the death of pests occurs 2-3 days after treatment, and the maximum effect is achieved on 5-7 days.

To combat ticks, dilute 1 ampoule per 1 liter of water, with aphids - 1 ampoule per 0.25 liter, and with thrips - 1 ampoule per 0.2 liter of water. A maximum of 2 treatments are carried out with an interval of 7-10 days. Do not use too often against ticks - it causes resistance. But it is great as a preventative measure, especially at home.

Aktara is a good insecticide with systemic properties that works against aphids, thrips, whiteflies, scale insects, mealybug, fungus gnats. But the maximum effect will be achieved only with simultaneous watering and spraying on the leaves (if there are mosquitoes, only watering). Requires 1-2 treatments.

Actellik is an insectoacaricide for the control of aphids, scale insects, whiteflies, mites and other plant pests. Available in ampoules of 2 ml. The contents of the ampoule are diluted in 2 liters of water, in case of severe pest damage - 1 ampoule per 0.7 liters of water. Spray with freshly prepared solution, wetting the leaves evenly. The optimal temperature for treatments is 12-25°C. Dangerous to humans - hazard class II, use in extreme cases.

Inta-vir - insecticide for the destruction of insect pests garden crops and indoor plants. Effective against aphids, thrips, leaf-eating caterpillars, and whiteflies. Available in tablet form. One tablet is diluted in 10 liters of water. Plants are sprayed with a freshly prepared solution in dry, windless weather, ensuring uniform wetting of the leaves. A maximum of 3 treatments are carried out.

Diseases and pests are two scourges that can ruin the most beautiful rose garden. Diseases of roses often occur when the rules for growing them are not followed. For example, an incorrectly chosen place in some shaded or always damp corner of the garden guarantees the appearance of fungal diseases. And the lack of a well-thought-out regime of watering and fertilizing can weaken the plant so much that the rose will be defenseless against infections. Careless treatment of plants against pests can also cause unpleasant diseases. It is advisable to know in advance the main diseases of roses and the treatment that will help get rid of them. Unfortunately, there are many insects that want to settle on flowers and feed on their juice; the pests themselves cause a lot of damage and spread dangerous diseases roses

Pests

There are several dozen species of insects that feed on plants, settle on them, or lay offspring. Pests of roses can not only significantly reduce their protection against diseases and spoil their decorative appearance, they can completely destroy the plant if the fight is not started as early as possible. It is advisable to completely inspect the bushes more often, having noticed the appearance of pests, immediately get rid of them mechanically, for example, by washing them off with a stream of water, and then develop a strategy for further control.

Video “Rose Pests”

From the video you will learn about insects that harm roses.

rose aphid

Small, less than 1 mm long, green, black or brown insects occupy young shoots, leaves, and rose buds, feeding on their juice. There are winged specimens that fly to other plants, expanding their territory. The shoots become deformed under their influence and, deprived of strength, stop growing.

If discolored spots appear on the leaves, then they dry out, then you need to look to see if there is a yellow insect about 4 mm long on the underside. These are roseate leafhoppers that sit along the veins of the leaves, eat their pulp, drink the juice, and at the slightest movement of the leaf they quickly jump down to the ground. They lay their offspring in the bark of shoots, and two generations of pests hatch over the summer. There are especially many of them in dry, hot weather.

Affected leaves must be removed and destroyed, because larvae may remain there, and the entire plant will have to be treated with insecticides. "Aktara" or other drugs will help overcome this pest, you just need to treat the back side of the leaf. It is necessary to carry out two treatments with a break of 10 - 12 days.

Slobbery pennies, or omnivorous leafhoppers

On the back of the leaves or in their axils, among the foamy secretions similar to saliva, hide the larvae of the omnivorous leafhopper - a gray-yellow insect that feeds on plant sap. It is worth turning over the leaf to notice how the larvae crawl out of the foam and run away. To get rid of them, you need to treat the roses with chemicals (Actellik), tear off and destroy the affected leaves. Cicadas are eaten by ladybugs and lacewings; it would be good to attract them to the site.

Spider mite

This pest most often affects indoor and greenhouse roses, but in dry, hot weather it can also appear in a garden bed. An inattentive owner can detect it only by the web entwining the leaves and shoots of the plant. A little earlier, the appearance of a tiny white mite is indicated by small light spots - first, yellowish dots appear on the leaves, then they grow, and a cobweb appears, entwining the branches. He appears when increased dryness air and lack of moisture.

To get rid of it, you need to wash the plant, spray it and the area around it. clean water. Among the chemical preparations, Fitoverm is used.

Leaf rollers

Leafworms feed on leaves, these small grayish-yellow or green caterpillars live in folded leaves. If you do not notice them in time, then the entire rose bush can turn into a limp, weak plant with twisted and chewed leaves.

Since curled leaves are immediately noticeable, the fight usually begins on time. Damaged leaves should be torn off, and the plant should be treated with soapy water or nettle infusion. The use of the systemic insecticide "Aktara" shows good results.

Roseate sawflies

A small pale green caterpillar with a reddish head is called a sawfly; it is capable of eating away the entire pulp of a leaf, turning it into a drying lace of veins. They lay their eggs on the leaves. If you do not start fighting immediately after discovery, the rose will weaken and stop growing.

Damaged leaves must be removed, or better yet destroyed, and the entire plant must be treated with the contact insecticide Iskra or Intavir.

Bronzovka and Olenka shaggy

These beetles love rose flowers, especially light ones; they eat petals, pistils and stamens. Early in the morning they arrive, sit on the flowers and start having breakfast. At this time they are collected by hand. They can appear any day and fly all summer. Bronze beetles are red below and golden-green above, their females lay eggs in manure or soil rich in humus; young beetles appear in late summer or autumn and overwinter there.

It is necessary to ensure that these rose connoisseurs do not settle in the garden, otherwise they will next year will attack the rose garden again big amount. Deer behave in exactly the same way, only slightly different in appearance: black beetles, covered with gray hairs and white spots, do not look as impressive as elegant bronze beetles. It is difficult to scare them away by any means; they must be collected and carried away or destroyed, the ground around must be dug up, and manure must not be stored nearby.

Diseases

Rose diseases are very often caused by fungal spores, which are easily spread by wind or insects.

Plants weakened by pests especially suffer from various diseases, so those roses that have already had to be saved from pests should be under special supervision.

It is necessary to carefully examine all parts of the plants and begin treatment as soon as the disease is recognized.

Powdery mildew

Young shoots, leaves, buds become covered with a white or light gray powdery coating, become deformed and dry out - this means that they have been infected by a fungus that causes a disease called “powdery mildew”. All affected parts of the plant need to be cut off; if there are not too many of them, then the entire bush (preferably the plants adjacent to it) should be treated with ash infusion. Ash destroys the developing mycelium, but with a large infection it may not help. It will be much more effective to treat roses with special preparations: “Baktofit”, “Skor”, “Fitosporin”, “Topaz”.

Powdery mildew develops in warm summers with high humidity; if roses grow in a ventilated place and there is no excess fertilizer, then they are less susceptible to this disease.

Black spot

If black spots appear on the leaves in mid-July, lower leaves quickly turn yellow and fall off, then another fungus is to blame, which damages the adult leaves of roses. If the disease is neglected, then limp young leaves may remain on the bush, the rest will simply dry out and fall off.

At the first manifestations of the disease, you need to remove the damaged leaves, treat the entire bush (and surrounding plants, not necessarily just roses) with Bordeaux mixture or special preparations: “Fundazol”, “Profit”, “Topaz”, “Ridomil Gold”.

Rust

The causative spores of this disease are carried by water; in the spring in April - May, specific growths, spermogonia, suddenly appear on the leaves; they are first yellow in color, and then turn black closer to autumn. Pustules from the lower part of the leaf blade scatter spores, affecting nearby plants. The affected plant looks terrible - its leaves become covered with black and dark brown spots, they dry out, the shoots become bent, crack, spores fly out of the cracks, infecting everything around even more. This disease affects berry bushes, not just roses.

Copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, Topaz, Bayleton, and Abiga-Peak are used for treatment. For prevention, at the beginning of autumn, the bushes are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate, and sanitary pruning is required. Some experts recommend treating plants with immunomodulators “Zircon” or “Elina-extra” for prevention.

Chlorosis

Chlorosis cannot be called a disease in the full sense of the word, roses simply do not have enough iron, and they look unhealthy - the leaves turn pale, become covered with yellowish spots, or the entire leaf becomes much paler (yellower) with veins that remain green. Iron is a very important element for the overall health of the plant and for the balance of all other elements in its body. As a rule, there is enough iron in the soil, but it is not absorbed by roses for various reasons. For example, the soil may be too acidic or too alkaline, too compact with too much moisture and insufficient drainage. Chlorosis usually begins to appear at the tips of young shoots, first it becomes noticeable on young leaves, then gradually reaches the oldest ones.

For treatment, it is not enough (or even necessary) to add iron to the soil; you need to determine the cause and eliminate it, then the balance of useful elements will be restored. First of all, you need to know the acidity level of the soil. If the soil is too dense, it is worth adding peat or compost, or even sand, to make it more loose and breathable. Excess phosphorus can also block the absorption of iron, so you should be more careful when using complex mineral fertilizers.

Downy mildew

If dark red or purple spots appear on the leaves, the leaves curl, dry out, the shoots become deformed, and cracks appear on them, then the plant is affected by the fungal disease peronospora or downy mildew. A thin white cobweb appears on the underside of the leaf, which can be seen with a magnifying glass. Probably, at the beginning of summer, the rose was infected with spores of the causative fungus. Rain and wind carry spores, and favorable conditions, that is, a sharp drop in temperature, swampy soil, lack of ventilation, excessive shading, trigger the disease.

Diseased plants must be completely destroyed; usually they are taken away and burned. If the lesions are small, then you can treat them with Ridomil Gold or Strobi. For prophylaxis, when buds are forming, plants are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture or Cuprosan.

Preparation of solutions for spraying

Flower growers often treat rose diseases by spraying the bushes with special solutions. Often a copper-soap solution or a lime-chlorine decoction is used, the preparation of which has nuances.

To prepare a copper-soap solution, use soft hot (at least +50 degrees) water; if there is no rain, then tap water can be softened by adding soda ash (5 g - per 10 liters of water) or mustard (2 g) ). It is best to take green soap, 300 g dissolved in 9 liters of water, but if you don’t have it, you can use 72% laundry soap.

Copper sulfate (30 g) is separately dissolved in 1 liter hot water, and then pour it in a thin stream into the soap solution, stirring constantly with a wooden stick. A properly prepared solution has a pleasant blue color; it should be liquid without sediment or flakes. Before use, it is cooled to +20 - +25 degrees; there is no need to spray the bushes hot. The prepared solution can be stored for no more than 5 hours.

For a lime-chlorine decoction you will need 2 liters of ground sulfur and 1 liter of quicklime (or 1.5 liters of slaked lime) and 17 liters of water. The lime needs to be quenched in water so that there is no violent boiling; take a little water. When the water heats up, add sulfur and the rest of the water, stirring everything constantly. The mixture must be boiled over very low heat for at least 50 minutes; properly prepared liquid will acquire a cherry color. During boiling, the volume of water must be replenished; to do this, add it no later than 15 minutes before the end of preparation of the drug. Then the broth is left to settle, and after cooling it is filtered into a glass or earthenware container, but not metal. If you have a hydrometer, you can check the strength of the prepared broth. Its normal density usually falls within the range of 1.152 - 1.162 g per cubic centimeter. This is a concentrate; it is diluted for use. For 10 liters of water you need to take from 180 to 220 g; a couple of days before the treatment, you must carry out a test spraying of one bush (or even part of it). If there is a burn on the plants, then you need to add lime to the broth. The finished product should be stored in a cool, dark place, the container should be tightly closed.

If you carefully prepare the preparations, they will definitely help the roses get rid of pests and not succumb to diseases.

Video “Diseases of rose bushes and their treatment”

From the video you will learn about the most common diseases of roses and how to treat them.

Preface

The delightful aroma of an indoor rose will not leave any person indifferent, but so that the resident of the pot pleases the eye for a long time, should be given Special attention measures to combat all kinds of pests and diseases.

This truly royal flower easily wins hearts, and what a shame when it dies as a result of improper care. In our article we will consider not only means of combating problems that have already arisen, such as pests, fungi and viruses, but also how to prevent them. To do this, you should learn a little more about the characteristics of the plant.

Indoor rose

Rose is the collective name for various representatives of the Rosehip genus. At the same time, the main part of the varieties was obtained through selection. Most species are thermophilic, but there are also individual representatives that survive even in rather harsh climates. indoor plant It is preferable to place them on south-facing windows, as they love the sun. If you place this representative of the flora in the shade, then it may not bloom at all.

Preference should be given to neutral soils. But if you want the flower to have a more pronounced color, then you need to plant it in soil with an alkaline reaction. It is very important that the soil is well drained. At the same time, you should not move the newly acquired resident to another pot. You need to let the plant adapt to new conditions and only after that can you start replanting.

Briefly about the variety of these beauties

Now about the most common types indoor roses. The most popular species can rightfully be called polyanthus and miniature plants. The first were bred by crossing climbing and tea varieties. Such representatives of the flora bloom all year round, and their small double flowers are odorless. But some miniature specimens can fill a room with an amazing aroma. They got their name because of their small size. But despite such compactness, the bushes are covered with dense foliage, and the double inflorescences are distinguished by their elegant shape. The homeland of such roses is China.

More rare representatives can be called hybrid tea varieties, which were bred by crossing remontant and tea roses. The main difference between this type is its delicate, refined aroma and rather large flowers.

Most varieties of indoor roses are susceptible various diseases, and only when proper care For the inhabitants of the pot, you can grow a strong plant with good immunity. It is imperative to maintain the required temperature regime. Despite the fact that the flower is heat-loving, during the dormant period from October to February it is better to keep it in a cool room. Don’t forget to regularly ventilate the room, even if it’s frosty outside, and in the summer, move the resident of the pot to the balcony or garden.

The soil should not be allowed to dry out, as the plant will not recover well after this. Water the soil in a timely manner warm water and apply fertilizer. It is better to fertilize once every two weeks. To maintain the desired level of humidity, it is necessary not only to water the soil, but also to spray the leaves.

Rose pruning

It is best to replant in the spring and very carefully so as not to disturb root system. Carefully remove the earthen ball with roots and place it in a new pot of slightly larger volume. In this case, the top layer of soil should be removed; it has a characteristic white coating- leaking salt.

It is also important to carry out timely pruning. In spring, all weak and small branches are removed. It is enough to leave only 5 well-developed shoots. If their wood is sufficiently mature, then these shoots are cut to 3–6 eyes; on shoots of moderate growth, 4–5 can be left. But weak branches are shortened by only 3 eyes. Then the representative of the flora must be immediately taken to a cool place, and as soon as the first green leaves appear, we place the flower in a well-lit window. It is worth noting that the cooler the room is, the longer the rest period will last.

Now we will talk about fungal diseases that most often affect indoor varieties of roses. They are quite difficult to diagnose, are contagious and can only be treated with certain medications. Most often, the fungus affects the weakest representatives of the flora. High humidity in combination with high temperature - optimal conditions for its development. Quite often such diseases are introduced with soil, dust, or newly acquired green inhabitants.

If spots are found on the surface of the leaves, then most likely we're talking about about a disease such as spotting. If you ignore the danger, you risk saying goodbye to the flower, since the spots will increase in size over time, and as a result, the green foliage will simply dry out and fall off. Most often, yellow roses are susceptible to this disease. Mostly symptoms appear in the second half of the growing season.

Rose spotting

Contributes to the spread of fungus: thickening of the crown, excessive humidity and poor ventilation, too dense soil in the pot. Having noticed the affected areas, immediately remove them and treat the plant with copper or sulfur containing preparations. In addition, until complete recovery, avoid spraying with plain water and pay special attention to watering. Treating roses with a special antifungal soap has also worked well.

This most common fungal disease has the most negative effect on general condition plant and leads to its complete death. It can be identified by a white coating on the leaves, which gradually spreads to the stems and even buds. The affected parts should be removed immediately before the fungus spreads to healthy branches. But at an advanced stage, you should completely cut off the flower at the root. It is enough to leave small shoots about 5 cm high. Next you need to treat the rose, the soil and even flower pot foundationazole or other special agent. Spraying is repeated several times.

Powdery mildew on leaves

Contributes to this fungal disease over fertilization and deficiency fresh air. The peak of its activity is the period when a significant temperature difference begins between day and night.

There is another disease with similar symptoms - downy mildew. But only in this case the plaque mainly spreads across inside leaves and primarily affects wet areas. The leaves are covered with purple or light spots on top. On the Internet you can find photos with symptoms. Control measures also have similarities with the previous disease. All affected parts are removed, and the plant is treated several times with fungicides. In order to enhance the effect, it is recommended to change the drug each time.

In addition to fungal ones, there are also. One of the most terrible ailments of roses can rightly be called bacterial cancer. In this case, the stems and even the roots of the plant, depending on the type of disease, become covered with lumpy growths or rounded depressed spots. The affected areas gradually die off, but the bacteria continue to live in the soil for several more years.

To avoid mass infection, it is not enough to simply remove the affected areas; they should be disinfected in a solution copper sulfate within a few minutes. Under no circumstances throw away the soil in which the infected plant grew in your garden or vegetable garden, as you risk being left without a harvest for several years.

Infectious burn on a rose

Rose jaundice is also dangerous. The causative agent of this infection is carried by pests such as psyllids and leafhoppers. The disease can be identified by the yellowed veins of young leaves. In addition, over time, the leaves themselves begin to lighten and become deformed; if no action is taken, larger areas of yellow color appear, and the plant weakens. Affected areas are cut off and burned. And if the flower cannot be saved, then it should also be burned.

But these are not all diseases; it is worth paying attention to the rose wilt virus. In this case, the buds do not set, the leaves become narrower and gradually dry out, and the young shoots do not grow. As a result, the bushes dry out completely. The same measures to combat the disease are applied as in the previous case.

There is also an infectious burn. Spots with dry areas in the center appear on the leaves. Their color can be either light brown or darker. Characteristic is the crimson edging. The affected areas rapidly increase in size with poor ventilation. After the spots ring the shoot, it dies completely. It is best to cut off the infected shoots, but if the disease has not yet developed, you can save the plant without such radical action. It is necessary to completely clean off the stain with a knife and cover the already healthy tissue with Rannet.

Regardless of the disease, the tools used for pruning must be disinfected. They are treated with either a solution of potassium permanganate or alcohol, otherwise there is a risk of transferring the infection to other plants and losing them. In addition, do not underestimate the danger that they can pose, because they not only spoil the flora themselves, but also carry various viruses.

Let's start with the actual dangerous pest, which is practically impossible to avoid. The main reason its appearance can be called insufficient humidity in the room. Therefore, for prevention, the plant should be regularly sprayed and even bathed in the shower. Mostly a tick appears late autumn and in winter, because during this period many owners of indoor roses do not pay enough attention to the existing microclimate and allow the soil to dry out.

Signs of a spider mite

To reduce the likelihood of damage to a minimum, even newly purchased plants should be treated with special non-toxic preparations. Garlic infusion will do the job perfectly. To prepare it you will need a liter of water and 170 g vegetable crop. The product is infused for 5 days. You can also use tobacco infusion, and sprinkle a small layer of mustard powder or wood ash on the ground. Prevention is repeated several times a year. One of the most effective, yet non-toxic chemicals– “Strela”, “Aktellik”, “Neoron”. “Akarin” and “Vertimek” have also proven themselves well. The flower is completely sprayed with the solution, and for a better effect it is recommended to treat the earthen ball as well. The procedure is repeated 3 times with an interval of 7 days.

Small pests are usually located on the underside of leaves and look like small red, red or dark brown dots. After slightly wetting the flower, you can see how the mite begins to move. The larvae of this insect are light-colored and are also found on the green part of the plant. Over time, the foliage turns brown and falls off.

Of course, huge damage indoor flowers rose diseases cause diseases, but insects should not be underestimated. For example, small beetles settle inside a flower and gnaw through its leaves. But caterpillars can not only make small holes in the green parts of the plant, but also gnaw them completely. You can get rid of such unwanted guests with the help of preparations containing karbofos.

If the leaves of a flower are deformed, and the plant itself lags behind in development, then, most likely, it was struck by the roseate sawfly. The females of this insect lay eggs under the bark of a representative of the flora world. But this is not the worst thing; such a pest feeds on young buds and shoots of roses, which causes incredible damage. To destroy the sawfly, the plant should be treated with special carbophosphate-containing preparations or fufanon. But insecticidal agents are indispensable if the rose is affected by scale insects. It can be recognized by the brown plaques that cover the foliage and stem. In addition, the plant lags behind in development, sheds its leaves, and if you ignore the symptoms and do not provide timely assistance, it will die altogether.

rose sawfly

You can find out that the plant has been infected by cut aphids by the following symptoms. Firstly, young shoots and buds will be infested with colonies of small pests. Secondly, the foliage of the flower will take on an unnatural appearance, begin to curl, become deformed, and eventually dry out altogether. Timely treatment with tobacco infusion or soap solution will help overcome the problem. Moreover, if you decide to give preference to the second remedy, you should use insecticidal soap.

An infusion of yarrow has also proven itself well. To prepare it, fill half liter jar dried herb and fill it with water. The product is infused for 3–4 days. To enhance the effect, you can add a small piece of soap. There are also chemicals that can help fight this insect. These include pyrethrum, actellik and other products based on karbofos. If the colonies are insignificant, then you can deal with them using the biological method by placing several ladybugs on the plant.

Consequences of improper care

Pests and diseases can deprive you of your pet, but sometimes we ourselves can cause such a loss by making mistakes during care. For example, a change in living conditions can lead to the drying out of a flower. In this case, the previous microclimate should be restored and pruning should be carried out. And excessive humidity and excessive irrigation will lead to rotting. Reanimating such a plant is quite a difficult task. To do this, remove the rose from the pot and cut off the rotten roots. Next, we transplant the plant into new soil and do not allow it to overflow. At the same time, complete drying out of the soil should be avoided.

And here insufficient watering leads to drying out of the plant and without proper care the problem cannot be solved. All dead shoots should be removed, but only so that a few centimeters remain to the trunk. Then we water the resident of the pot and place it under a plastic bag. This way you can ensure the desired humidity. As soon as young shoots appear, you need to start ventilating the “greenhouse” so that the plant gets used to dry air.

In addition to insect pests, there are a large number of fungal organisms that cause and contribute to the development various diseases roses For successful cultivation healthy and beautiful plants it is necessary to know rose diseases and methods of their treatment and be able to recognize diseases at an early stage.
Most rose pathogens have the ability to persist for a long time on dead plant debris, and therefore it is very important to collect absolutely all fallen leaves, cut shoots, and removed weeds and burn them.
If before winter shelter If you do not remove the leaves from the rose bushes, then the pest eggs and fungal spores remaining on them will survive the winter well, and with the onset of spring they will infect the plant.
For preventive purposes, it is recommended to treat bushes in the spring with a solution of copper chloride (0.4%) and in the fall with iron sulfate (3%). It is very important to disinfect cutting tools before starting pruning, and treat the cut areas with garden pitch or clay solution.
Rust of roses
One of the most common diseases, rose rust is a fungal disease caused by the rust fungus.

As a rule, it occurs in a weakened plant in cold spring after a harsh winter and completely affects the plant around mid-summer. Symptoms of rose rust, which appear in early spring, are rusty spots on the upper side of the leaves and bright orange pads, which are clusters of spores, on the underside of the leaves, which turn black in the second half of summer. Infected leaves fall off, and young shoots turn red and wrinkle.
Methods to combat rose rust:
removal and destruction of affected plant parts initial stage development of the disease;

spraying the plant with a decoction of horsetail;

dusting the bush with ground sulfur, or a mixture consisting of ground sulfur and slaked lime in a ratio of 5:1;

spraying and watering the plant with wormwood tincture consisting of 400-500 g of fresh leaves and 40-50 g of dried wormwood leaves poured into 10 liters cold water and infused for 2-2.5 weeks before fermentation begins. Before use, this infusion must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10;

in case of severe damage, it is necessary to treat the lower part with copper-containing preparations

leaf surfaces once every 2.5-3 weeks;

as a last resort - spraying with a solution (1%) of Bordeaux mixture.

Rose diseases: black spot

At the initial stage of development of the disease, the upper surface of the leaves becomes covered with very rapidly increasing dark brown spots with yellowish edges. After 1.5-2 weeks, the leaves of the plant turn yellow and fall off, then the stems become covered in spots, flowering stops, growth stops, the rose loses all its foliage and the plant dies.
Methods to combat black spotting:
systematic destruction of the affected parts of the individual at the initial stage of disease development;

spraying with horsetail decoction;

spraying with sulfur-containing preparations once every 7-10 days for severe damage;

spraying with copper-containing preparations, such as copper-soap emulsion and copper sulfate (5%);

An extreme control measure is to water the soil around the bush with a solution (1%) of Bordeaux mixture once every 6-8 days and spray the entire plant.

Powdery mildew
The most common disease of roses, powdery mildew, got its name because a white coating forms on the stems, leaves and young shoots. It is very similar to flour, and after the spores ripen, a liquid resembling dew drops begins to be released.

Most often, greenhouse and indoor varieties of roses, as well as actively growing young shoots and leaves, are susceptible to this disease. The disease is caused by a fungus and very quickly spreads throughout the plant and is transferred to neighboring bushes.
At first, powdery mildew spots are easily erased, and there is no noticeable damage to living tissue underneath, but after 1.5-2 weeks they cover the entire bush, turning into a solid white coating. This leads to curling and falling of leaves, bending of stems, deformation of flowers and the death of young shoots. As a result, the bush quickly withers and very often dies.
The infection develops very quickly under favorable conditions such as a hot, humid day and a cool, condensation-promoting night.
This disease is much easier to prevent than to fight it. In autumn, you need to remove all affected shoots from the plant, remove all the leaves under the bush and burn it. Add ash under the bush and dig it up, with the obligatory transfer of soil - this will make it difficult for oxygen to reach the pathogens. It is recommended for prevention in the fall and early spring to spray roses with a solution (3%) of copper sulfate.
Measures to combat powdery mildew:
exclude fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizers that stimulate the development of fungus, giving preference to ash and potassium fertilizers;

At the early stage of the disease, organic preparations are effective - 1 kg of manure diluted in 10 liters of water and 200-300 g of wood ash, infused for 5-7 days. Then the infusion should be filtered and the bush should be sprayed at intervals of 1 time every 4-5 days until the signs of the disease completely disappear;

with an average degree of damage, a copper-soap solution consisting of 100 g of grated laundry soap dissolved in 10 liters of water, with the addition of 30-40 g of copper sulfate, is effective. The bush should be sprayed with this solution at intervals of 1 time every 8-10 days;

in case of severe damage, special agents are used, such as topsin and benomyl. Treatment with such preparations should be carried out 3-4 times in a row at intervals of 1.5-2 weeks. In case of advanced disease, the affected plant must be removed and destroyed to avoid damage to neighboring plants.

Treatment of roses
There are a number of main reasons why roses most often get sick:
improper pruning, after which the cut area does not overgrow for a very long time;

evening watering of plants;

plants growing next to roses are already infected with bacterial diseases - most likely the rose bushes will suffer the same fate;

a cool, humid climate actively promotes the development of fungal diseases;

waterlogging or lack of moisture;

soil deficiency nutrients.
The treatment method for roses depends on the disease:

fungal diseases are treated by destroying infected leaves and pruning the plant;

to combat mold outbreaks, use sulfur or Funginex;

in case of a bacterial disease, it is necessary to remove and destroy the infected stem along with the ulcer;

in case of sulfur rot on branches and buds, the affected parts must be removed;

If a bacterial gall disease occurs, it is necessary to remove the infected plant from the garden or flower bed as quickly as possible, otherwise it will lead to the death of crops growing nearby.

The treatment of roses after wintering deserves special attention, since the plant has weakened and become very vulnerable over a long cold and damp period. The main diseases - infectious stem burn, fusarium rot, and bacterial cancer - develop due to poor ventilation and excess moisture during the dormant period. In this case, roses need to be fed with mineral and complex fertilizers. Carry out the necessary course of treatment of diseases with the help of drugs. In case of severe damage, the plant or its infected parts must be removed.
Protecting roses from pests
The main pests of roses are: roses