What to do with fallen leaves on the site. The most useful compost from fallen leaves

I’ll start with a question from one novice gardener, which he prefaces with the following story.

Once on television, a certified specialist explained that fallen leaves should not be burned, but collected in a heap, earthworms should be placed there, and “over the winter they will process these leaves, turning them into a valuable fertilizer - vermicompost.” He did just that: he collected a huge pile of leaves, bought worms worth a thousand rubles and put them inside. And I covered it with film on top so that they would be warm and the leaves wouldn’t fly away. But in the spring the leaves were in their previous form and “not a single worm was in them anymore.”

The importance of fallen leaves in nature has long been known, and it is good that they have finally begun to propagate the inappropriateness of their destruction. Now, if only they did it correctly. That “specialist” should have known that, firstly, worms cannot process freshly fallen, still dry and hard leaves, since they do not have teeth. They absorb only soft and moist substrate, therefore they convert only already decomposing plant residues into vermicompost. And secondly, in winter the worms in the leaves lying on the ground do not work; they “go on vacation” into the non-freezing layers of the soil.

In the forests, fallen leaves perform cross-functional role . First of all, they insulate and protect the roots and other parts of plants in the ground from freezing. Due to its looseness and large amount of air, the lush forest litter reduces the thermal conductivity of the soil, that is, it retains summer heat and thereby prevents it from freezing in winter. In addition, the forest floor is very moisture-intensive, and water also reduces the thermal conductivity of the soil. During winter thaws and during spring snowmelt, the non-freezing soil continues to absorb moisture.

A thick layer of forest litter also plays an important role as mulching, which retains moisture and prevents the formation of soil crust and erosion after rains. Gradually rotting, the mulch turns into humus, which promotes the reproduction of earthworms. Under a multi-year layer of such mulch, the soil is always dark, loose, and well structured.

Fallen leaves after rotting are a very valuable organic fertilizer, containing potassium, phosphorus, calcium, nitrogenous substances and useful microelements.

All these valuable properties create favorable conditions for plant development. That's why huge trees grow in forests without any mineral fertilizers. There is such a long-standing experience in one forestry when limited area removed the forest litter and then collected fallen leaves for several years, the growth of plantings fell by 20%. It took twice as long large quantity years to restore natural soil conditions and normalize tree growth.

It should be clear from here Golden Rule nature, which is used in organic farming: the earth should never remain naked and everything that grew on the earth should return to it.

In the northern states of America, the leaves are centrally used to obtain fertile soil, which is then sold in stores. Landowners collect fallen leaves in the fall, and only in paper bags, followed by certain days are coming special machines. The filled bags are stored, watered with water, and as a result, leaf humus is obtained, which, with the addition of peat and sand, becomes good soil for plants.

But all this was known to us a long time ago. Let me remind you again that back in the middle of the 17th century. Russian experimental agronomist A. Bolotov wrote in his essay “On Fertilizing Lands”: “When leaves from trees rot, they serve almost as well as manure.”

Why don’t our modern gardeners and vegetable gardeners appreciate the experience of previous years, burning huge piles of leaves every autumn? Some - out of ignorance, others - due to mistrust associated with damage to leaves by infection (scab, sooty fungus, anthracnose, etc.).

But with their reasonable use, pathogens that attack leaves and shoots mostly die during the period of decomposition in the ground, in compost heap and especially after processing the rotting mass by earthworms. Therefore the leaves fruit crops can be laid for deep rotting, and with healthy foliage of maple, linden, birch, chestnut, etc., it is more advisable to cover plants superficially for the winter, and then mulch in the summer.

Such a shelter saves many valuable plants in frosty conditions in the absence of snow (that is, in “dark winters”). But all you need to do is sprinkle the bases of bushes, for example, strawberries, with a thick layer of fallen leaves (photo on the left). And to prevent them from flying away, put branches on top, which will also help retain snow. Many bulbous crops (for example, daffodils, lilies, etc.), various new plants, etc. require similar shelters.

To the leaves, which are used in the fall for rotting in the ground, you can and should add fallen fruits and green tops of vegetables, berries, flowers and other crops. But exactly tops, preferably without roots. Without experience in recognizing various diseases, you can introduce with the roots an infection that persists in the ground for a long time and is difficult to eradicate. Such dangerous diseases include cabbage clubroot (photo on the right) (swelling on the roots), bacterial cancer(may appear in the form of growths on the roots of marigolds and some vegetable crops), as well as the root nematode - a microscopic pest of potatoes, strawberries, etc. Such roots should absolutely not be left on the site at all. They must be carefully collected and burned without shaking off the ground.

IMPORTANT. People often ask: is it possible to use leaves that are raked in city parks and squares for your plot?

The answer is clear - no, you can’t. Such leaves can cause contamination of the soil and products grown on it with substances harmful to health (compounds of heavy metals - cadmium, lead, copper, nickel, etc.). Landscaping workers should take care of the disposal of urban leaf litter.

For winter mulching(i.e. shelters) It is better to use litter from large-leaved trees(maple, chestnut). But any others will do. You just need to keep in mind that the smaller the leaves, the faster they cake, thicken and displace air. In the spring, the leaf mulch must be carefully removed so that its layer caked over the winter does not interfere with the flow of heat and air into the soil, and in the case of bulbous crops, their germination. But do not throw away or burn these leaves. There will still be many benefits from them after rotting in a compost heap or in a worm bin.

The valuable properties of fallen leaves can also be used to obtain an earlier harvest of vegetable crops (potatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, cabbage, etc.) or to speed up the planting of strawberries and some flowers.

1. To do this, you need to prepare trenches in the fall and fill them with leaves.
2. In place of each row, dig a trench along the cord with a depth and width of the bayonet of an ordinary shovel (more is possible).
3. The main thing is to stack the excavated soil side by side on one side so that an earthen roller (ridge) is formed.
4. Then fill the trench to the top with leaf litter and, especially if autumn is dry, water it with water, or even better, a solution of slurry, herbal infusion or household waste.
5. It is advisable to place juicy greens on top: chopped cabbage leaves, tops of root vegetables, peppers, nasturtiums, sweet peas, etc., chopped with a shovel. Plant residues will return valuable nutrients to the soil and at the same time promote the rapid decomposition of dry leaves.
6. The filled trench does not need to be trampled down or covered with earth. It is only advisable to sprinkle rotted manure or compost on top to fill it with beneficial microorganisms that accelerate rotting.
7. The trench spends the winter in this form. Its contents will compact themselves, settle, and become saturated with useful snow water.
8. In the spring, the earthen ridge that rises next to each trench is heated by the sun and thaws faster than the flat surface nearby.
9. Therefore, at the first opportunity, use a hoe or shovel to rake the thawed soil into the trenches and, depending on the crop being grown, make a film greenhouse or other shelter over them (if necessary). The main thing is to be thoughtful about biological features plants.
10. To in early spring It was easier to walk on still slushy ground and not trample it; in the fall, provide approaches to the place of work by laying “sidewalks” from boards or other available material.

This way autumn preparation trenches for early spring planting are especially valuable for clayey areas with perched water, that is, poor water permeability of the soil, where it does not dry out for a long time.

Using a similar principle, you can make wider and deeper beds by placing small brushwood and coarse plant debris on the bottom, and leaf litter and quickly decomposing tops on top. In the spring, the contents of the trench will rot, releasing heat. As a result, the soil structure, its water and physical properties. Earthworms and beneficial soil microorganisms quickly multiply in it. All this makes the soil fertile and increases the yield, ensuring its environmental purity.

Fallen leaves can be good material for mulching a garden or vegetable garden.

However, they are necessary apply correctly, otherwise, instead of benefit, such mulch will cause a lot of harm.

We have already written about general principles mulching, now we will talk about the differences that appear when using fallen leaves as a mulching material.

You can add fallen leaves to beds prepared for planting. next year, but immediately after the snow melts it is advisable to dig them up, and plant seedlings or seedlings after 1–2 months.

In this case, the soil structure destroyed as a result of digging will have time to recover, and the soil will also return to it. earthworms and other important inhabitants.

Moreover, during this time many beneficial substances from humus will go into the soil and will make the entire volume of soil more fertile.

Using mulch from fallen leaves in the garden is no different from mulching beds.

If the garden is not planted winter varieties plants, then it is covered with a layer of fallen leaves, and after the snow melts they dig up and let it sit for 1-2 months.

You can do without digging, but in this case the plantings should be planted not in dug holes, but in holes pierced by the handle of a shovel, but sprinkle a mixture of garden soil and humus on top from fallen leaves.

This method of planting, unlike digging, does not destroy the soil ecosystem, therefore, seedlings or seedlings can be planted 1–2 weeks after the snow melts, when the soil warms up a little.

Can fallen leaves be added to garden beds along with other fertilizers?

Fallen leaves can be added to the beds together with any other fertilizers, if the peculiarities of its influence on the soil or plants are taken into account.

When organic matter rots, the soil loses nitrogen and also becomes more acidic, so the fertilizer complex should not only fill the soil with nutrients, but also compensate for nitrogen loss, as well as changes in acidity.

It does not matter in what state (whole or chopped in a garden vacuum cleaner with a mulching function) the foliage ends up in the beds. After all It is not the size or shape that is important, but its chemical composition and those processes that occur during decay.

Mulching the garden and lawn

Around the trees foliage can be poured without the restrictions used when mulching beds, because the trees are protected by a durable material that can easily withstand the effects of acids.

Necessary be careful when moving along paths or between rows, because the foliage quickly becomes limp and turns into a slippery mass. Therefore, it is necessary either not to fill up the paths/rows, or to lay boards on top of the mulch and walk on them.

Also necessary together with leaf mulch apply nitrogen fertilizers and microelements, and also regulate the change in acidity by adding lime or dolomite flour.

When mulching lawns infested with perennial herbs or flowers whose stems are completely cut off before frost, then it is enough cover the lawn with a layer fallen leaves 10–20 cm thick.

In the spring, after the snow melts, plant stems will easily make their way through a thin layer of rotted foliage, and within a year, insects and earthworms will completely recycle the remaining mulch.

As a result of their life activity the result will be enriched and loosened soil with high water permeability. However, this does not eliminate the need to apply fertilizers, including microelements, because in the wild their role is played by animal excrement and decomposing corpses of various living creatures.

If bushes and flowers grow on lawns, the stems of which are not removed before winter, then they should not be mulched with fallen leaves, because acids and other substances produced by microorganisms, damage plant stems.

In this case it is better to use crushed leaf pulp which is obtained after removing the foliage.

The advantage of the crushed mass is that it is easier to lay it around the stems so that the mulch didn't touch them. If there is no such device, then it is advisable to protect the stems or plastic from bottles.

Features of using deciduous mulch

The main problem, which sometimes makes it impossible to use fallen leaves to cover beds, gardens or vegetable gardens, is associated with the high probability of leaves affected by the mulch getting into the mulch. various diseases or pest larvae.

Bifidobacteria and fungi, which convert leaf mass into humus, as well as frost, cannot destroy pathogens and larvae, so after the snow melts, bacteria and insects begin to look for food. There's a good chance they'll be able to get to suitable plants and settle on them.

To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to do it 1–3 times a month. check all plants, trying to detect affected leaves or branches on them.

If diseases or pests are detected, such branches/leaves needs to be cut from trees or bushes, then place them where they cannot be mixed with falling leaves.

After autumn pruning, all disease-affected and pest-infested waste must be disposed of in one of these ways:

• take out to the landfill;
• recycle for fuel cells;
• burn in compliance with fire and environmental safety requirements.

We wrote about whether it is possible to burn leaves on your property.

In addition, you should not use fallen leaves for mulching. coniferous plantations, this can negatively affect the condition of the trees.

Such mulch will loosen the soil and make it more nutritious, but at the same time it will release substances incompatible with metabolism coniferous trees . This will lead to a deterioration in the condition of green spaces, leading to a decrease in immunity and damage by various pests and diseases.

There is no such danger for any deciduous species.

Video on the topic

In this video, the user tells everything about mulching with leaves in the fall: both about preparing the mulch and about the process itself.

Conclusion

Fallen leaves - good material for mulching the garden and vegetable garden. After rotting, it loosens the soil structure and makes it more fertile. However must be applied correctly her, otherwise instead of benefit such mulch will only bring harm.

After reading the article, you learned:

• what can be mulched with fallen leaves;
• how to properly use such mulch;
• in what cases its use can harm plants;
• that you cannot mulch with fallen leaves.

In contact with

In autumn on garden plot many fallen yellow leaves. Collecting fallen leaves is a job that takes time and energy. The collected leaves need to be stored somewhere or somehow disposed of. Read about what you can make from fallen autumn leaves

Photo on the left: M. Kuzmenko. : Hydrangea - winter shelter V open ground. Frame with mesh and thermal insulation.

Use dry leaves as a warming and heat-insulating material for covering roses, hydrangeas and other heat-loving shrubs, as well as plants in pots and containers for the winter.

Leave fallen leaves near the fence and under trees in the far corners of the garden, especially if your site is located near the forest. IN dry fallen leaves Hedgehogs love to settle in to spend their winter hibernation in warmth and comfort.

To quickly and without problems remove leaves from the lawn, in dry weather, walk over it with a lawn mower with the basket removed. Shredded leaves will remain on the grass and will soon simply disappear into the soil under the lawn, while improving its quality.

Mix crushed fallen leaves deciduous (not evergreen!) trees with annual weeds. Weeds must have no roots and no flowers/seeds. Place everything in a plastic bag and leave for composting. Shake the bag or stir the contents periodically to ensure even distribution. When the decomposition period is over, you will be left with fine, high-quality soil for seedlings and indoor plants.

Material: Oksana Jeter, CountrysideLiving.net

Why don't gardeners take advantage of this wonderful opportunity in the fall and prepare their own leaf humus! Moreover, it is not at all difficult to do this.
After all, leaf humus is very effective remedy improves soil structure, excellent mulch and acidifier for plants that love acidic soil.

The material for making leaf humus is fallen autumn leaves, which can be collected in the garden and surrounding areas.

The peculiarity of leaf humus is that it contains almost no nutrients, therefore cannot be used as a fertilizer, like garden compost.
The advantage of leaf humus lies in its soil-conditioning properties. Soil generously flavored with humus retains moisture at the roots of plants longer, helping them survive winter frost and summer drought, saving the gardener time, labor and money.

Leaf humus is a favorite habitat for earthworms, great helpers for the gardener. Even half-finished leaf humus is an excellent addition to garden compost.
If you care environment, then also think about the fact that when you use fallen leaves to prepare humus, you will no longer have to burn them, poisoning yourself and your neighbors with acrid smoke.
By adding leaf humus as a soil acidifier, you can avoid buying store-bought peat, which is extracted from unique natural peat bogs.

Collecting leaves

To obtain leaf humus, fallen leaves should be collected. In flower beds, as well as among shrubs or other plantings, you can collect leaves using special hand rakes so as not to damage neighboring plants. On a small lawn or other open space, you can use a lawn rake.
The advantage of the "old fashioned" hand picking of fallen leaves is that you can work in wet weather - this is not at all uncommon in the fall. Wet leaves undergo the decomposition process more quickly.

On the patio, you can use a broom or a special garden vacuum cleaner, which operates in two modes, to collect leaves. By blowing air, it will help gather the fallen leaves into a pile. By drawing air into itself, it will collect the leaves in a special bag, having previously crushed them.
On large lawns, it is most convenient to use a lawn mower to collect leaves with the blades set to the highest possible height. Use a lawnmower to collect leaves regularly, without allowing them to accumulate.
The advantage of using a lawn mower and vacuum cleaner is that the leaves are shredded and collected in one place, saving the gardener a lot of time and physical effort. Shredded leaves decompose much faster and turn into humus.
However, there is a limitation when working with a lawn mower and vacuum cleaner: they can only be used in dry weather; They don't work at all effectively with wet leaves.

You can use any leaves to make leaf humus. However, it should be remembered that the decomposition period of the leaves depends on the type of tree. Fast, within a year, subject to compliance the right conditions The leaves of most deciduous trees (birch, oak, maple, hawthorn, rowan, hornbeam, hazel, etc.) decompose. Decomposition of evergreen leaves and needles can take 2-3 years; It is especially recommended to chop such leaves in a garden vacuum cleaner, lawn mower or shredder.

Laying leaves

The collected leaves should be placed tightly and compacted into special designs(four wooden pegs covered with metal mesh), 1x1m in size. If you do not have such a structure or space to place it, you can place the leaves in a large plastic container or in thick plastic bags for garden waste. Pierce the bags tightly filled with leaves in several places, and simply twist the top without tying it into a knot.
Fungi that decompose leaves and turn them into humus require almost no oxygen. This is one of the significant differences between the production of leaf humus and the production of garden compost.
The main requirement for the production of leaf humus is the obligatory maintenance of the laid leaves in a wet state. Keep the leaf structure open at the top so that autumn rains regularly and generously moisten the future humus. IN plastic containers
You can pour water from a bucket or directly from a hose without fear of waterlogging.

Adding green grass clippings to the container also helps speed up the process of leaf decomposition.

Waiting for the leaves to decompose

After laying the leaves, all that remains is to be patient and wait for the leaf humus to be ready. As in the situation with compost, you will only have to wait the first year. And when the regular process of producing leaf humus has already been established, then when laying a new batch of leaves, last year’s laying is already ready for use.

Using leaf humus
In young leaf humus, in addition to the dark soil, the skeletons of leaves are clearly visible, sometimes whole leaves and small sticks are found. It can be added to soil for outdoor plantings or in flower containers, buried under plants, used as mulch, used to level out depressions in the lawn, or added to compost.
Aged leaf humus will be ready in 1.5-3 years, depending on the quality of the leaves and tree species. It is a dark, crumbly, uniform soil without interspersed individual leaves. In use, in addition to everything listed for young humus, aged leaf humus is suitable as a substrate for germinating seeds in it and using it for growing seedlings. It is also good to use for replanting indoor plants if mixed in equal parts with garden compost and fine sand or loam.

Humus obtained from pine needles requires about 3 years to be fully prepared and is excellent for mulching acidophilic plants (lovers of acidic soils): hydrangeas, camellias, pieris, azaleas, rhododendrons, heathers, Erica, etc.

Benefits of fallen leaves

What else can be done with fallen autumn leaves:

* Spread the leaves on unused soil until spring to prevent the growth of weeds, against weathering and washing away the top layer of soil.
In spring, rake the leaves and place them in your compost pile.

* Grind some dry leaves in a garden shredder and add to the compost, especially if you added a lot of green garden and vegetable waste in the fall.

All about substrates on the website website

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