What is best to use for a blind area around the house. How to properly make a blind area around a house with a strip foundation? Blind area around the house - necessary materials and coatings

Any homeowner (bathhouses, garages and other buildings are also considered) really wants his building to require repairs as little as possible. And the first concern is the safety of the foundation. To do this, it is important not only to plan and build correctly, but also to drain water - groundwater and precipitation. Lead groundwater is engaged drainage system, and sediment is removed using a blind area. This equipment does not have the most complicated design: a blind area of ​​any type is easy to make with your own hands. There is not a lot of work and costs, but it solves several problems.

Functions and tasks

We have long been accustomed to the fact that there should be a path around the house: it gives the entire layout a finished look. Especially if combined with finishing materials, which decorate the building. In addition, it is practical: you can walk along the path. And the fact that the path is a blind area, and its main purpose is to drain water, is a successful combination of the properties and qualities of materials and a well-thought-out design.

The main function of the foundation blind area is to remove sediment from it

If you look at it from a utilitarian point of view, the blind area drains rain and melt water from the foundation. The second very important practical task that can be solved with its help is to insulate the foundation. If you put insulation under the walkway, it will protect the house from freezing, which will greatly reduce heating costs.

When should a blind area be done? Immediately after finishing the external walls, but before finishing the basement. Why is that? Because a compensation gap must be left between the finishing of the blind area and the wall of the house. This is an excellent path for water that flows down the wall of the house (falls on the walls during slanting rain, for example). But it is impossible not to make this gap - the foundation will collapse. It is also unrealistic to seal the gap hermetically. The solution is to make sure that water does not get into the gap in any case. This can only be achieved if the base trim hangs over the seam. Then the water will flow a few centimeters further from the seam, and then fall into the drainage grooves. This can only be done if you first organize the blind area and then finish the base.

Why do you need a foundation blind area, when to do it, we figured it out, now it remains to understand how to do it correctly.

Blind area dimensions

It is necessary to remove sediment from the foundation along the entire perimeter. That’s why a protective belt is made around the house. The width of the blind area is determined depending on the type of soil on the site and the length of the eaves overhang. In general, it should be 20 cm wider than the roof overhang. But SNiP sets minimum standards: on normal soils the width of the blind area is at least 60 cm, on subsidence soils - at least 100 cm.

The width of the blind area of ​​the house is at least 60 cm on normal soils and at least 100 cm on subsiding soils

Also in the manual for SNiP 2.02.01-83 there is paragraph 3.182. There are the following instructions:

Blind areas around the perimeter of buildings must be prepared from local compacted soil with a thickness of at least 0.15 m. Blind areas should be arranged with a slope in the transverse direction of at least 0.03. The edge mark of the blind area must exceed the planning mark by at least 0.05 m. Water falling on the blind area must flow freely into the storm drainage network or trays.

From this passage it is clear that the depth depends on the technology chosen, but cannot be less than 15 cm.

Device technology

Any blind area consists of an underlying layer and a protective coating.

Backfill: what materials to use

The purpose of the underlying layer is to create a level base for laying the protective coating. Its thickness is about 20 cm. Sand and crushed stone are often used for these purposes, but native soil or clay can also be used.

Sand and crushed stone are used on well-draining soils. In this case, sand is first laid, spilled and compacted. Then there is a layer of crushed stone, which is also compacted.

If the soil on the site is clay or loam, then it is better to use native soil. If, with such soils, crushed stone or sand is laid around the foundation, then water will certainly be present near the house. Because it turns out that the density of the soil outside the underlying layer will be higher. This will cause water to accumulate under the blind area. If, with this design, a drainage pipe is laid around the perimeter of the bedding, the problem will be solved. And it’s effective. But there will be more work, and the cost of the blind area with drainage will be higher.

Types of protective coating

The covering for the blind area must meet many requirements:

• should not allow water to pass through;
• must be frost-resistant;
• have increased abrasion resistance;
• should not be destroyed by water.

This could be paving slabs or paving stones. The shape and color can be very different - you select based on the general design of the territory and the houses of nearby buildings. The thickness of these materials is at least 6 cm; only in this case will they withstand harsh operating conditions.

You can use slabs or tiles made from natural or artificial stone, you can lay out the paths with large pebbles or pour crushed stones on top of all layers.

There is another type that is becoming increasingly popular - this is a soft blind area. It has few layers but works effectively. There may not be any hard or waterproofing layer on top: you can pour soil and plant grass or flowers. Interesting solution for a summer residence or country cottage.

All these options are not bad, but the cost of their arrangement is quite high. If there is a need or desire to do it cheaply and cheerfully, your choice is a concrete blind area. There will be a lot of work, but the total cost is low.

General principles

Depending on the soil on the site and the purpose of the building, they can be used different materials and structure of layers, but there are some points that are always present:

How to make a blind area at home with your own hands

First, markings are made along the perimeter of the building using pegs and laces. The following is the order of work:

• The plant layer and some soil are removed. The depth of the trench depends on the size of the underlying layer and the thickness of the protective coating. Usually - 25-30 cm.
• The bottom is treated with herbicides. This is necessary to prevent plants from growing in this area. They are able to destroy even concrete and asphalt, and they grow instantly between tiles or paving stones.
• The bottom of the trench is leveled, forming the required slope and compacted.
• The underlying layer is laid and compacted, maintaining the slope. It is advisable to compact everything using a vibrating platform. Manual tamping ineffective. Density is especially important when laying concrete, but it is advisable to compact it well under tiles or paving stones: it will not collapse or warp.
• A protective coating is laid.
• A drainage groove is formed.

It's very short and sketchy. Each coating has its own characteristics, and each needs to be discussed separately.

Concrete blind area around the house

The most widespread covering is concrete. It turns out to be the most inexpensive. Traditionally, the underlying layer consists of poured compacted sand (10 cm) sand, on top of which compacted crushed stone (10 cm) is laid. As already mentioned above, this scheme works normally on well-draining soils.

If there is clay or loam around the house, make the underlying layer from native soil. To reduce the effect of heaving and avoid cracking, pour 10 cm of sand on top of the compacted soil, and then lay concrete on it. This way the concrete will crack less, but you will not get rid of cracking completely: especially in regions with harsh winters. In such conditions, it is better to make a blind area from crushed stone or pebbles - there will be no problems with cracking. If funds allow, they make it from tiles. For harsh winters, with correctly selected layers of substrate, they stand well.

In general, on heaving soils it is advisable to make drainage that will drain the water flowing from the tape. This will be an effective and reliable solution. All the rest are just half measures. Drain pipe positioned so that water from the coating gets into it.

Rules for concreting a blind area

Formwork is installed and secured along the perimeter of the marked area. Most often, the board is of sufficient height, secured with pegs and spacers.

To reduce surface cracking, reinforcement is often used. To do this, a mesh of steel wire with a cell size of 10-25 cm is laid out on the finished underlying layer.

Wooden planks treated with antiseptics are laid on top of the mesh (if there is one). The thickness of the planks is 2.5 cm, and they can be treated with hot drying oil. These strips are damper joints that will prevent the concrete from cracking when temperatures change.

The planks are set while maintaining the slope from the house. The rule is then “pulled” along them, leveling the solution.

To make the surface strong and smooth, ironing is carried out. Almost immediately after pouring, while cement laitance is still on the surface, the concrete is sprinkled with cement (can be crushed several times) and rubbed with a trowel or plaster float. A thin but strong, smooth and slightly shiny surface is formed on top. It is very resistant to abrasion.

The last stage is concrete care. The path is covered damp cloth. During the week, it is regularly moistened (sprayed from a hose or watering can). The fabric should remain damp. To avoid hassle with watering, you can cover it with film, but it is more difficult to keep it in one place.

Concrete for blind area

For the blind area, standard sand and gravel concrete is used. Darkness is preferably at least M150. It can be higher: the higher the grade, the more durable the protective coating will be. The proportions for preparing the solution for the blind area can be selected from the table. They are given for concrete grade M400 - not very expensive, the characteristics are normal.

Insulated blind area

It only makes sense to install an insulated blind area in a heated house. In buildings for seasonal residence, in which above-zero temperatures are not maintained in winter, this makes no sense. The meaning of adding a double layer of insulation:

If the insulated blind area of ​​the house is laid at the design stage, then one more reason is added: if this detail is present, reduction factors are applied in the calculation. That is, the foundation has a lower height, and therefore less cost.

Insulated device option concrete blind area with a drainage system is demonstrated in the video. Everything is described normally, they just didn’t specify what to do if the layer of loose soil is more than 40 cm, which is required for the blind area. In this case, it must be filled with soil having a density higher than that located on the site. If there is clay on the site, then only that can be used. If it is loam, you can take either clay or loam.

One point: lay the clay not in a dry state, but diluted to a paste. The technology is old, but nothing better has been invented yet. It is laid out in layers, trying to avoid the formation of air pockets - water will certainly stagnate in them (or someone will settle).

Blind area made of crushed stone or pebbles

This is one of the types of soft blind area. It's easy to do it yourself. This system is used if there is a drainage system or the soil drains water well, and there is no clay or loam under the plant layer.

The order of work is as follows. A layer is laid in a dug trench on a leveled and compacted bottom. This material is not thick, but very elastic. It will prevent crushed stone or pebbles from being pressed into the ground. And the path will not sag. Crushed stone is poured on top and compacted. Layer thickness 10-15 cm, fraction 10-80 mm. All.

If desired, the gravel blind area can also be insulated. Then 50 mm thick EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) is laid in the trench on compacted and leveled soil, and a geomembrane is laid on top high density, and you can already use pebbles or crushed stone on it. But it is not advisable to walk along such a path.

Do-it-yourself blind area made of tiles or paving stones

There are several device options, but the most optimal and versatile are “pies” using geotextiles.

For example, one of them is shown in the figure. It can be used to construct a blind area on heaving soils with harsh winters. Note:

It is advisable to use geomembranes as waterproofing. They are made from high density polyethylene. By brand: you can take Tefond, Isostud, Fundalin, TechnoNIKOL Planter Standart, etc. They cost around 150-250 rubles/m2.

Geotextiles available different brands and different densities, with different functional purposes. Choose based on the geology of the site. Their price is from 15 to 50 rubles/m2.

When constructing a blind area with your own hands, the main thing is to make sure that the water leaves the foundation and does not collect in the sand or crushed stone layer near the house. What will definitely happen if the soil is heaving (clay or loam), the underlying layer is made of sand and crushed stone, and there is no drainage.

A reliable, time-tested way to protect the foundation from the effects of surface water is to install a concrete blind area around the house. An absolute advantage Concrete blind area is cheap and easy to manufacture.

100% protection from moisture, which is provided by a concrete blind area with a complete coating, cannot be guaranteed by any material (without arranging a multi-tiered “pie”). The condition of the foundation directly affects the position of the entire structure. Therefore, the foundation needs major protection.

This is precisely the main task of the blind area - protecting the foundation and base of the house. In addition to the barrier, it performs several other functions. For example, it allows you to organize more convenient movement along the blind area and gives the building a complete appearance.

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to properly make a blind area around a concrete house with your own hands. We propose to divide all the stages of arrangement into theoretical and applied.

• In the first part, we will look at what you need to know and prepare before getting started.

• In the second - how to prepare the bed and properly pour the concrete blind area.

Requirements for the blind area and rules for its construction

• width of concrete blind area, according to SNiP 2.02.01-83 should be 200 mm. more than overhang roofing material. If there is a drain, its parameters are also taken into account. The same SNiP regulates the width depending on the type of soil. The traditional (optimal) width of the blind area can be considered 1 meter. This width provides freedom of movement and acts as a path around the house;

• length. Since the foundation needs protection along the entire perimeter of the house, it is logical that the blind area should also completely surround the building. The only exception may be the installation location of the concrete porch;

• depth or level of penetration of the blind area should not exceed half of the calculated depth of soil freezing characteristic of a particular region. This parameter You can look at the table or request information from the architecture department at the location of the object.

  The ability of a concrete blind area to move with the soil gives it its functions. Otherwise, its role will be reduced to draining water, which is not enough to protect the foundation.

  Note. The depth of freezing is affected by the presence of communications in the ground.

• concrete blind area thickness. The minimum thickness of the surface layer is 70-100 mm. If increased operational load is planned, for example, vehicle movement, the thickness can reach up to 150 mm;

• slope of the blind area. SNiP III-10-75 recommends what the slope should be - from 10 to 100 mm per 1 meter of width (i.e. 1-10%). The angle of inclination is directed in the direction opposite to the foundation of the house. Slope requirements depend on regional rainfall levels and soil type. In practice, the slope is taken to be 20-30 mm per 1 m (2-3 degrees). If you do more, then in case of icing, it will be difficult to move along such a blind area;

• border. In the case of a blind area, the border is a decorative element and the decision to install it is made based on the preferences of the home owner and his financial capabilities. However, if bushes are planted in the immediate vicinity of the blind area - “root aggressors” (raspberries, blackberries) or trees that have a powerful superficial root system (poplar, sycamore), then installing a limiter is mandatory;

• plinth height. The standards establish a minimum plinth height of 500 mm for a hard type blind area and a minimum of 300 mm for a soft type. Let us remind you that the blind area around a concrete house is of the rigid type;

• height of the blind area from ground level. It is desirable that the blind area be 50 mm higher above the ground level. This recommendation is due to the fact that water should not accumulate on the edge of the blind area and turn into puddles. In winter, this is fraught with freezing and, accordingly, destruction of the structure.

• concrete blind area design has a specific device diagram, which is shown in the drawing below.

Armed with the above data, you can proceed directly to the installation of a concrete foundation blind area.

How to make a concrete blind area around a house

Preparation of material:

• concrete for blind area. Grade is an indicator of the quality of concrete; its value ranges from 100 to 1000. It indicates the proportion of cement content in concrete. The concrete class ranges from B3.5 to B8 and indicates the strength of concrete. Thus, class B 15 indicates that a concrete cube measuring 15x15x15 cm is capable of withstanding a pressure of 15 MPa.

What brand of concrete is needed for the blind area? To prepare the solution, use cement grade M 200 (class B15).

The parameters (properties) of concrete depending on the brand are shown in the table.

• sand. Which one do you need? River or quarry sand is suitable for making the bottom layer of the pillow. The main thing is that it does not contain large impurities that can damage geotextiles;

• crushed stone (gravel). Crushed stone of fraction 10-20 is suitable for the blind area;

• clay or geotexil for hydraulic locking. In practice, this layer is absent in the base cushion, because concrete drains water well;

• cement for ironing.

Composition of concrete mortar for blind area

If it is not possible to use ready-made concrete, you can mix it yourself. To do this you need to prepare:

• cement for blind area. You should know that the grade of concrete is determined by the grade of cement and its specific gravity as a percentage of the components of the solution. M400 Portland cement is used for the blind area. The cement must be fresh; with each month of storage it loses 5% of its properties. It’s easy to check the freshness; just squeeze a little cement in your fist; if it shrinks into a lump, its shelf life is running out; if it crumbles freely, you can work with it;

Note. Which cement is better for blind areas? Naturally fresh and of high quality. This will save on cement consumption and prepare a good concrete mortar.

• sand. To prepare concrete, you need to take concrete that has been sifted and washed to remove impurities and soil;

• crushed stone It is advisable to use crushed stone of a fraction of 5-10 mm. At the same time, crushed stone is better than, for example, small pebbles;

• water. Should be at room temperature;

• additives. They are needed to give the concrete frost-resistant properties. Often used as a supplement liquid glass.

The tools you will need are a concrete mixer or a mixing container, a shovel, a bucket (it’s better to take a plastic one, it’s easier to clean), a measuring container (for water), a hand-tamping log or a vibrating plate.

Preparation of concrete mortar for blind area

In practice, the solution for the blind area is prepared in portions, after all preparatory work. We will provide a ready-made recipe for cement mortar and how to mix it correctly.

The composition of the concrete solution includes: cement, crushed stone, sand, water and various additives that increase its strength. The durability and strength of the blind area depends on the ratio (proportions) of these components.

Note. Components are measured by weight only.

Proportions of solution for blind area

Note. 1 cubic meter of sand is on average equal to 1600 kg, 1 cubic meter of crushed stone is on average equal to 1500 kg.

Depending on the brand of concrete, the proportions will differ. SNiP 82-02-95 regulates the composition of the mixture for producing concrete of a certain grade.

The concrete mixture is very demanding on the amount of water supplied. Its excess reduces the strength of concrete, because removes cement flour to the top layer of the solution. This leads to the fact that the strength is distributed unevenly. In practice, it is calculated that water should be approximately half the amount of cement. More accurate data is contained in the table (water-cement ratio (W/C) for concrete).

The order in which the components are added to the solution also matters. Cement is first poured into a mixing container or concrete mixer and water is added. By mixing, the so-called cement laitance is obtained. Next, the remaining components are added to it. First, sand is poured in small portions, and then crushed stone (gravel).

Note. Professionals advise maintaining an interval of 5 minutes. between feeding components. This way the mixture mixes better.

Technology for constructing a blind area made of concrete with insulation

Step-by-step instruction:

Preparing the base for the blind area. To do this, the top layer of soil is removed, all roots, stones, etc. are removed. Using a blanket herbicide will eliminate activity under the substrate. For example, the drugs Agrokiller or Tornado.

Advice. Considering that the blind area must exceed the edge of the roof slope by 200 mm, it is recommended to use a plumb line to accurately mark the boundary of the blind area.

Marking. To do this, we pull the rope onto the stakes hammered in the corners. To avoid sagging of the rope, you need to install intermediate stakes (at a distance of 5-6 m from each other).

Advice. How to determine the required angle of inclination of the blind area? Craftsmen install additional beacons (stretch a rope) on the base of the house. Fastening is done every 1-1.5 meters.

Hydraulic lock device. To do this, lay fatty clay in a layer of 100-150 mm or cover the bottom with geotextiles (roofing felt, PVC film, advertising banner, etc.). Please note that to prevent the film from tearing, it is better to pour a layer of sand of 50-100 mm at the bottom of the trench. A layer of sand of the same thickness is also poured on top of the film. The sand is leveled, moistened and compacted. In the case of a clay hydraulic lock, there is only one sand layer. When laying the film, you should avoid tension. It must be able to move freely with the ground.

Note. Experts advise making high-quality drainage near the hydraulic lock. To do this, you need to dig a trench 100 mm deep and 200 mm wide and fill it with crushed stone or lay a drainage pipe in it, wrap it with geotextile and fill it with crushed stone. This will increase the rate of water drainage.

It is worth noting that many people ignore this stage of work. In practice, this attitude results in the fact that water passing through expansion joint, goes directly under the foundation, and when freezing leads to an increase in pressure on it.

Backfilling of crushed stone. The layer thickness varies from 50 to 100 mm. The gravel is leveled and compacted. Since crushed stone is difficult to compact, some recommend using a special grid for laying it, which is used in landscape design for the construction of gravel paths. We note right away that this will increase the cost of the blind area without much need.

Sand filling.

Laying communication pipes. To do this, a depression is made in the sand for pipes and storm drains.

Insulation of the blind area. Expanded polystyrene or penoplex is laid on the compacted sand with which crushed stone and communications are covered. Only hard insulation is suitable for the blind area, but it is afraid of point loads, so it must be laid on a sand cushion.

Advice. Cold bridges can be eliminated by laying insulation in two offset layers.

Reinforcement of concrete blind area. This is done by laying reinforcement mesh with cells of 50x50 or 100x100 mm or by knitting a reinforcement cage.

Advice. Chain-link mesh is not suitable for reinforcement - it is too flexible.

If insulation is not intended, the reinforcing mesh is laid directly on the crushed stone to a height of 20-30 mm. Which will contribute to better distribution of concrete.

Formwork installation. Boards or plywood are installed strictly according to level. To level out the bursting force of concrete, the formwork is reinforced with stakes that are installed on its outer side. During installation, do not forget that the formwork is removable, which means that all seams will be visible after its dismantling. In this case, the blind area will have an ugly appearance. Therefore, when installing boards, you need to ensure that the internal seams are invisible.

Construction of expansion joints. To do this, we install wooden slats and boards (on edge), which are pre-treated with an antiseptic or tarred. The recommended distance between the expansion joints of the blind area is 2-2.5 meters. Expansion joints must be made diagonally in the place where the formwork turns (at the corners). The purpose of the expansion joint is to compensate for the thermal expansion of concrete during operation. They are installed level, taking into account the angle of inclination of the formwork, because When pouring concrete, they are guided by them. An alternative to wood can be Guerlain butyl rubber tapes (10 RUR/m) or a hydro-swelling elastic cord, for example, Penebar Rapid SW45 A/B.

How to seal the seams in the blind area?

According to reviews, those who ignored the formation of expansion joints had cracks after the first winter. Many people believe that wood swells and allows moisture to pass through. You can seal the resulting cracks with special sealants, such as TEKTOR 103 mastic (225 rubles/piece), ISOSEAL P-40 (280 rubles/piece).

Pouring a concrete blind area. When pouring concrete, you need to ensure that no air pockets are formed and that the cement mixture evenly fills the entire space. It is important that no bumps or depressions appear when pouring. Their presence will lead to stagnation of water in these places. If it is not possible to do the entire blind area at one time, part of it is poured, and then work is resumed.

Advice. When pouring a blind area, you can use a technique for uniform distribution of concrete - bayoneting. To do this, the concrete is “pierced” with a rod, and the solution fills the entire space.

How to properly pour a concrete blind area around a house - video

Protection of concrete blind area from destruction

Many people are interested in how to cover the concrete blind area around the house. After all, after pouring the solution, the blind area must be protected from heaving, deformation, destruction, and exposure to moisture, rain, and snow. Let's consider how and what is the best way to do this.

Ways to protect the foundation blind area:

Ironing of concrete blind area around the house

How to iron a blind area with your own hands?

• Dry ironing method - freshly poured concrete is sprinkled with a layer of cement (2 mm) followed by grouting. Dry cement binds to the concrete mortar and increases its ability to withstand the effects of water.

• Wet ironing method - 12-14 days after pouring (when the concrete has dried), you need to walk over the surface of the blind area with a cement-sand mortar (1:1) with the addition of lime paste (10% of the volume of the mixture).

Coating the blind area with a primer

Deep penetration primers, such as AURA Unigrund KRAFT (90 rubles), are suitable for this. Primer solutions are used when additional finishing is planned. For example, tiling or painting. If this is not in the plans, it is better to use a water repellent, for example, Eskaro Aquastop Waterproof W (1200 rubles) or GKZh-11 (195 rubles/5 l). Concrete hardeners such as Monopol 1 (1,600 rubles/5 kg), Monolit-20M (1,200 rubles/10 l), Protexil (3,600 rubles/20 l) or Ashford Formula ($120/10 l) are gaining popularity.

Protecting the blind area with liquid glass

A solution of liquid glass and cement is a more budget-friendly option for a protective composition (primer, water repellent) that provides a similar result. A solution with liquid glass is prepared from a mixture of cement, water and liquid glass in a proportion (ratio) of 1:1:1.

Covering the blind area with a layer of enamel

The enamel must match certain parameters in terms of frost resistance, vapor permeability, moisture resistance, and environmental friendliness. Polyurethane enamel ELAKOR-PU (220 rubles/kg) has proven itself to be excellent.

Covering the blind area with tiles and stones

Lay tiles (ceramic, clinker, paving), pebbles or a natural stone. In this case, concrete acts as a binding solution.

• It is advisable to install a storm drain near the blind area, which will drain the flowing water and prevent siltation of the area;

• To ensure uniform drying of the poured concrete, the blind area is covered with film. Thus, evaporated moisture will be retained on its surface. Since it is difficult to cover a wide blind area with film, it can be periodically moistened. The time until complete hardening with a blind area thickness of 100 mm is 1.5-2 weeks;

• After the concrete has completely dried, the blind area is removed. You should be careful here, because... Removing the blind area can lead to damage to the edges of the blind area.

This order of work and taking into account all these nuances guarantees the long-term full functioning of the concrete blind area.

Do-it-yourself repair of a concrete blind area around the house

The most common problems include:

The appearance of cracks in the blind area

How to repair cracks in the blind area?

Elimination depends on the depth of damage (cracks, crevices, concrete breaks):

• no more than 1 mm. Self-healing is used. Such a crack is not dangerous and is usually rubbed away by friction during walking;

• no more than 3 mm. Involves the use of “cement dough”. Shallow cracks can be sealed (filled) with a liquid cement solution (1 part cement to 1 part water);

• 3-30 mm. Such cracks are considered large. To eliminate them, you can use a special sealant such as the above-mentioned TEKTOR 103, ISOSEAL P-40. You can seal the crack with freshly prepared concrete mortar. However, before this the crack needs to be widened. In cross section it should resemble a cone. Apply primer over the entire area of ​​the crack. Any will do, for example, Ceresit ST-17 (450-500 rubles/10 l). Next, the solution is poured. You can use the so-called hydroseal, a special cement-based solution that hardens in 15 minutes. An example is Lugato 5-Minuten Mortel putty (410 RUR 5 kg)

• crack depth exceeding half the thickness of the blind area, this is already a cracking of concrete and refers to significant damage. It can only be eliminated by expansion followed by pouring new concrete.

Delamination of the surface of the blind area over the entire area

In the language of masters, this process is called concrete dusting or delamination (delamination). The reason for this phenomenon may be several factors. For example, uneven hardening of concrete happens if you pour concrete mortar onto a cold surface (observed when working in early spring) or make the blind area thicker. Increased content air in the concrete mixture. Excess of crushed stone parts in the concrete composition.

What to do if the concrete blind area crumbles?

If the process is just beginning, then the surface should be covered with “cement paste” or a composition that contains liquid glass (proportions: cement, water and liquid glass - 1: 1: 1).

If the damage has reached significant proportions, then radical measures must be taken:

1. determine the boundaries of the damage to prevent its spread;
2. cut out part of the concrete;
3. cover the edges of the blind area with a primer;
4. apply a new layer of solution;
5. cover with film until completely dry.

If you start it, you will have to completely dismantle the blind area and fill in a new one. The measures described above will help extend the life of the blind area and save on alterations and reconstruction.

The cost of installing a concrete blind area without material

And the last thing that interests everyone who wants to order the construction of a blind area is the prices for a concrete blind area. If you entrust the work to craftsmen, then the estimate must contain the costs of the work, which are presented in the table (approximate data as of the end of 2015)

Please note that it is unlikely that you will be able to negotiate a significant discount here. After all, this price does not take into account the cost of materials. For a complete picture, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the cost of materials for the production of a concrete blind area per 1 m.

Conclusion

Agree, it’s a good incentive to make a concrete blind area with your own hands. Moreover, from the given instructions it is clear that this work does not require special tools, any special materials, only the desire to protect the foundation of the house with a reliable barrier.

To insulate the foundation and protect it from soil mobility, blind areas are often made around the house. This operation is not difficult to do on your own if you have some skills or simply follow the recommendations of professional developers.

The pouring of the blind area itself takes little time. And the cost of materials will be quite small. But the benefits that the building’s foundation will receive will be plenty.

The main function of this structure is to protect the foundation of the building from destruction during operation. After all, the main factor that influences the damage to the foundation of a building is the proximity of groundwater and soil mobility due to freezing and thawing.

But not only for protection, a blind area around the perimeter of the building is poured. Using this design, you can significantly insulate not only the base of the building, but also the floors in the house. And this is already quite a big plus for making a blind area.

Constant dryness in the basement, no fungus on external walls at home, excellent ventilation of the base is another argument in favor of installing any type of blind area.

Beauty and well-groomed surroundings of the house, neat paths that are comfortable to walk on - additional function blind area around the foundation.

Performing blind areas yourself

It is better to start making the structure at the stage of laying the foundation. This will allow you to properly make a blind area around the house without additional hassle. But if the building has already been purchased, and the blind area around the perimeter of the building’s base is dilapidated or at the stage of destruction, then a new blind area around the house is made with your own hands in place of the old structure.

The work is not difficult if done using one of the technologies. Step-by-step instructions on how to properly make a blind area look like this: general outline So:

• dig a ditch around the foundation more than 40 cm wide (at least 45 cm deep);
• perform formwork along the edges of the ditch;
• lay sand at the bottom of the trench (15 cm layer), wet it and compact it;
• perform insulation from fatty clay 5 cm thick (with a mandatory slope away from the foundation);
• put waterproofing (film or rolled roofing felt);
• make reinforcement with rods in one belt (without disturbing the slope);
• pour concrete mortar to the required height.

Some owners prefer to make a blind area near the foundation with insulation. However, the outer layer is not always chosen from concrete. The structures are made from paving slabs, paving stones, crushed stone, asphalt and even soil with grass. That's why final stage The work is very different due to the choice of materials for making the blind area. Before the very top layer you should put insulation. And only then proceed to finishing tiles, cement or paving stones.

But for those people who will construct a concrete structure, it is worth knowing how to properly fill the blind area with mortar:

1. Making the solution - standard proportions 1x3, where there is only one part of cement and three parts of sand.
2. Installation of formwork around the future structure.
3. Pouring concrete evenly over the entire area in one day.

The drying time of the structure is usually from 14 to 16 days. To protect against negative influences You can cover the blind area with oilcloth on top on the second day. The formwork is removed after complete drying. And then the soil is backfilled.

Laying tile blind areas

Considered step-by-step instruction how to make a blind area around a house from tiles will not differ much from standard laying technology. A distinctive point that will be discussed is the laying of tile elements on the prepared blind area.

After the reinforcement is completed, instead of filling (in the standard version), it is worth filling the ditch with a second layer of sand to a height of 15 cm. The sand must be wetted and firmly compacted.

Don’t forget to maintain the slope, as later this property will help you quickly lay tile elements.

Well, the area for the tiles is ready. You can start working according to this scheme:

This is how you make a blind area with your own hands from slabs different sizes. At the end of the work, it is worth leaving the material to dry and set the concrete.

It is important to remember that you do not need to drive the tiles into the mortar. It is better to take a wooden plank, place it on the tiles and press gently, but with medium force. Then the tiles will be laid evenly and will not crack during work.

After the structure has dried, the concrete solution is made again. But now in proportions 1x3. Yes, and it should be rare so that it can be applied with a brush to the seams between the tiles.

Making a blind area from paving stones

When the choice falls on a paving stone structure, the difficulties in the work will be a little less. True, the paving stone blocks themselves are quite heavy. But you just need to lay them on sand or sand-cement mixture with a mandatory offset from the foundation (compensation joints).

A diagram of how to properly make a blind area from such material looks like this:

1. Laying film for repeated waterproofing on the reinforcing belt.
2. Making a formwork panel along the edge of the structure.
3. Adding a layer of sand (mixture) with mandatory compaction.
4. Laying out the paving stone elements tightly one to the other.
5. Tap each block of material with a rubber mallet to ensure uniform shrinkage into the sand.
6. Sealing the seams with sand from above.

Of course, if you are not used to laying paving stones it will be difficult. But such operations can be done independently.

It is worth remembering that after laying the paving stones, you need to fill it with water and leave it for 2-3 days to shrink. The resulting solution will spread evenly and will hold the paving stone elements firmly.

Soft blind area around the building

For those owners who prefer a natural landscape, experts advise making soft blind areas where the top layer is soil. This layer can be seeded lawn grasses, decorate with flower beds. Here the principle of the device will differ from other rigid-type structures.

The work flow will look like this:

• digging a ditch around the foundation to a width of 40 cm to 50 cm, a depth of 45 cm;
• making a cushion of sand in a layer of 10-12 cm, observing the slope and obligatory compaction when wet;
• laying a layer of oily clay (5 cm) for the castle;
• creating waterproofing using film or rolled roofing felt;
• additional cushion of sand, crushed stone (layer 10 cm), compacted thoroughly;
• laying geotextiles with edge processing;
• backfilling soil to the top.

In this case, pouring concrete is not necessary. Therefore, the solution is not prepared. The only exceptions are those cases when it is intended to make a border along the edge of a blind area or flower bed.

In this case, the curb is installed on the first pillow. But before this, a concrete solution is applied under the installation site.

It is mandatory to leave a certain distance between the foundation wall and the blind area, which is called an expansion joint. Such a seam is sealed with any sealants, roofing felt or rolled bitumen. The main thing is that the blind area does not put pressure on the foundation walls, adding a constant load to it.

How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands V short time? The blind area is carried out in two layers - the underlying layer and the ceiling. The underlying part is required to obtain a compacted, level base for laying the covering. This layer made from crushed stone, sand, gritsovka or clay. Last option considered the best.

The coating must be waterproof. It is made from paving slabs, concrete, clay, small cobblestones and asphalt. It happens that the blind area is made from a mixture of clay and sand, or clay with crushed stone. Thickness – from 5 to 15 centimeters.

Types of blind area

There are several types of blind area, depending on the material used in manufacturing:

• concrete;
• cobblestone;
• from concrete slabs;
• ground;
• brick;
• asphalt.

Work execution technology

How to properly make a blind area around the house with your own hands? You should start by excavating the soil. A trench is dug around the perimeter of the building; its depth should be approximately 30 cm.

The integrity of the blind area can be damaged by plant roots, so the soil should be treated with herbicides first. Then removable formwork or curb stone is placed along the width of the blind area. The underlying layer is laid down into the trench at a slope.

Laying a concrete blind area

Concrete construction is the most common type of coating.

It is worth noting, that in case of severe frosts the blind area may fail. To prevent this from happening, slats are mounted across the blind area on the edge every 3 meters; they must be treated with bitumen in advance. Next, the solution is poured using concrete and leveled.

Increase service life The blind area is helped by concrete reinforcement. In this case, concrete produces work in compression, and metal in tension. Installed metal lathing in increments of 100 by 100 millimeters. Further along the level, cement mortar is poured.

The finished surface is covered with dry concrete and leveled. Then it is covered with a dark film and left for a week, periodically watered with water.

How to inexpensively make a blind area around the house? If you want to reduce costs, you should give preference to a blind area made of reinforced slabs. Their shape is chosen depending on design features roof and site characteristics. The best option– slabs 60x60 centimeters.

When using ready-made slabs as a coating, the work becomes much easier. After laying them on a previously prepared surface, the seams are filled with mortar. If there is a need for this, the blind area is insulated with heat-insulating materials.

The structure made of insulation and slab is placed in such a way that there is air bag. The base for it is impregnated with bitumen and carefully compacted crushed stone.

Slope and width

When constructing a blind area, it is necessary to maintain the required slope and width.

In subsidence soil width may be more than 1 meter, on average it is 80 centimeters. Moreover, it should be 20 centimeters larger compared to the overhang of the cornice.

Slope from wall buildings and to the storm drainage should reach approximately 5°. Storm drain- this is a groove along the perimeter of the blind area, necessary for drainage. Instead, you can build a canal that collects water into a storm well.

Waterproofing and insulation

If your house has a basement or ground floor, it is necessary to waterproof and insulate the blind area. Waterproofing materials suitable for this purpose are bitumen mixtures, PVC and polyethylene films, roofing felt.

Under the waterproofing layer insulation is installed on the ground.

It can be polystyrene foam, foam glass and other materials.

Main functions of the blind area

• Practical function. If the blind area will act as a pedestrian zone, then it should be done taking into account the characteristics of the object and the design loads.
• Protective function. A high-quality blind area reliably protects the foundation of a building from melt water, precipitation, and deformation. It transports water a sufficient distance from the foundation.
• Decorative function. The blind area is a logical continuation of the building. The finishing layer is selected taking into account the style of the house and landscape design.
• Insulation. The thermal insulation properties of a building, if there is a blind area with an insulation structure, increase.

In order for the blind area to fully fulfill its purpose, It's worth following some rules:

1. The slope is formed both during laying of the coating and when installing the underlying layer.
2. Pay attention to the junction of the house wall and the blind area. An expansion joint must remain. The best result is obtained with two layers of special sealant or roofing felt and sealant.
3. The blind area should be carried out continuously around the entire house. Only in this case will the base be reliably protected.
4. The cheapest option for covering is crushed stone laid with compaction. The most reliable is pouring compacted crushed stone with cement mortar.

So, building the correct blind area around the house with my own hands everyone can do it.

However, before starting work, you should decide on the type of blind area, this determines what materials you will need. Do not forget about maintaining the width and slope. If the building has a ground floor or basement, insulation and waterproofing will be required.

A blind area is a horizontal wide strip of concrete, stone, asphalt or other material that runs around the house at an angle. It is needed to remove precipitation, because rain or melting snow negatively affects the condition of the foundation and walls of the building, especially wooden ones. Due to regular exposure to moisture, a log or timber darkens over time, rots and molds, the foundation sags and cracks, and the basement or basement begins to flood. To avoid these problems, blind areas are used.

Why are blind areas needed?

Note that pile and screw foundations do not require blind areas. In this case, you only need to install protective coatings in places where water drains from the roof. Other types of foundation require the organization of blind areas, which perform a number of important functions:

• Drain rain and melt water from the walls and foundation of the house;
• Prevents the appearance of mold, mildew and rot;
• Prevents the foundation from subsiding too much and protects against cracks and splits;
• Minimize the risk of flooding in the basement, underground or ground floor;
• Reduce soil freezing under the building and increase thermal insulation;
• Preserve the original appearance of the house;
• Increase the service life of the foundation and the structure as a whole;
• They complete the facade of the house, making the building complete and attractive.

Making a blind area around the house with your own hands is not difficult. The process begins after construction is completed. If you have not yet chosen a project for a country cottage or dacha, there are many interesting options you will find in the “MariSrub” catalogue. And in the article we will look at how to properly make and fill a blind area around the house.

Design specifics

The blind area is made according to certain sizes. The main role is played by the width and angle of inclination. To determine minimum width for a house, add 30 centimeters to the roof overhang. But in any case, the width of the blind area around the house should not be less than 60 centimeters. Suitable size one meter is considered. The wider the blind area, the more functional it is.

The slope of the structure is made away from the house; due to this slope, water drains and leaves the walls of the building. The most suitable tilt angle is 3-10 degrees, but in some cases 1.5-2 is sufficient. The markings are made not from the edge of the roof, but from the walls. The seams between the building and the blind area are additionally filled with sand. For pouring, choose only high-quality reliable concrete of at least grade M 250; in rare cases, you can use M 200.

To make a blind area choose various materials. Today, the market offers a wide selection of concrete and stone pavers, which vary in color, shape, size and design. Stone materials look natural and aesthetically pleasing, but are more difficult to install. The suitable thickness of the paving stone blind area is 5-6 meters.

It is advantageous to choose paving slabs, as they are suitable for repair. If necessary, you can quickly and easily replace damaged tiles. You can see the square and rectangular tiles different textures and colors.

The most economical and quick option— use of concrete and/or crushed stone. The thickness of the concrete blind area is 7-10 centimeters, of crushed stone - at least ten. Instead of crushed stone, you can use expanded clay, gravel or pebbles. The result is a strong and reliable blind area, which is closed from above decorative tiles, stones or leave rubble. We will consider the manufacture of a concrete blind area, since such a structure can be made independently without professional training.

How to make a blind area correctly: step-by-step instructions

• Prepare and compact the ground where the blind area is planned;
• Mark the future structure using pegs placed in the corners of the house, rope or boundary boards;
• Dig a hole 20-25 centimeters down;
• Install formwork along the outer perimeter of the trench. Formwork is made of boards, wooden blocks or slats, which are installed vertically and fixed;
• Pour sand in a layer five to ten centimeters high. Then pour the sand generously with water and compact it;
• Pour a layer of gravel or crushed stone on top and level it;
• After preparing the sand cushion and gravel layer, a compensating (deformation and temperature) seam is made, i.e. between the blind area and the walls/basement of the building, a layer of sand (gravel) is poured or roofing felt is laid solidly or every two meters;
• Then it is poured into the formwork concrete mixture. For self-made solution, take sand, crushed stone and cement in a parts ratio of 3:5:1. Add water to the composition in a volume of 60% of the taken cement and mix the mixture thoroughly;
• Concrete is poured carefully and gradually in several layers, taking into account the slope in an approximate ratio of 15 mm per meter of width;
• Cover the poured surface plastic film and leave until completely dry; in dry and hot weather, water the surface with cool water;
• Subsequently, the joints between the house and the blind area are filled with sealant;
• You can leave concrete surface in this form, or give an aesthetic appearance using tiles, bricks or paving stones, or install a border. But if the design is done correctly, there is no need for a curb.

Final work

The appearance of cracks and crevices - the main problem blind area that occurs during operation. This occurs due to frost, temperature changes and soil subsidence. To reduce the number of defects, additional insulation, expansion joints and installation of a drainage system with gutters (storm drainage) are used.

If you want to insulate the structure, add expanded clay to the concrete solution during mixing. Insulation reduces soil freezing, which will reduce the number of cracks that appear during operation. In addition, for additional insulation, concrete is poured in two layers, between which a special insulation is laid.

To make an expansion joint, the gap between the foundation walls and the structure is covered with gravel or sand, filled with mastic, or two or three layers of roofing material are laid. This layer will preserve the blind area during soil subsidence and prevent cracking and splitting.

If cracks do form, a liquid cement solution will help eliminate the defect. To repair, you need to cut out the splits completely and clean them of dirt, then pour a cement composition inside. Fill the hole with mastic and pour sand on top. Large and deep cracks or splits are filled with fresh concrete.

Storm sewer

For blind areas to be as effective as possible, you need to install storm drainage or drainage system summer cottage. A suitable option would be an open or linear design, which involves the placement of gutters along the surface of the site. Water from roofs, decks, sidewalks and walkways flows through pipes into these gutters and is then sent to a reservoir or sewer system. Gutters are covered with gratings to protect from debris and provide an aesthetic appearance.

An open storm drain is easy to install and use and covers a large area, which is why many summer residents and owners of suburban areas choose this type of drainage system. More complex, but also more aesthetic option- closed or point storm structure. In this case, gutters and channels are installed underground. Such a system should be developed at the design stage country house. There is also mixed type storm drains, which includes both surface and underground gutters.

If installed incorrectly storm system, pouring blind areas or using low-quality materials, the structure will be ineffective and will not last even five years. Trust the work to experts and professionals! The builders of “MariSrub” will select durable quality materials, they will calculate correctly, reliably and in a short time will carry out the blind area, install gutters and a drainage system. We build quality wooden houses from timber and logs on a turnkey basis or for shrinkage inexpensively!