What do you need to build a high-quality attic roof with your own hands? Making a beautiful attic floor with your own hands At what stage of attic construction is the wiring carried out?

Installing an attic in an individual home is a fairly common occurrence. This construction method allows you to reduce the cost per square meter and create a rather interesting room in the under-roof space. In order to properly install an attic floor, you need to study the basic requirements for it and choose the right type of roof and its slope.

What is an attic

According to regulatory documents, the attic floor is the volume under the roof that is used to accommodate residential and utility rooms. In this case, the height of the external walls should be no more than 1.5 m in the general case, otherwise the space will be considered a full-fledged residential floor.

A do-it-yourself attic is beneficial both during the construction and operation of a private house. In the first case, costs are reduced due to the fact that the height of the vertical enclosing structures is reduced. The roof takes on this function without ceasing to fulfill its original purpose.

An attic is a space under the roof that can be converted into a separate room for living.

During operation, cost reduction may include the following:

The heated volume of premises is reduced, as a result, there is a reduction in heating costs, which are an impressive item of utility costs.
After completion of construction, the house must be measured by specialists from BTI, after which a passport of the object is issued. It is based on the area values given in it that taxes are calculated and payment is made utilities(subject to connection to centralized systems and the absence of metering devices, which is now practically unheard of). The area of the marsard floor is included in the area of the entire house with coefficients of 0.7 or 0.8 depending on the height outer wall and the angle of inclination of the roof, which allows significant savings throughout the entire life of the facility.

Preparatory stage

Construction should begin with the development of a project or diagrams on which the future structure will be drawn. Most often, the roof that is used for the attic floor is a gable roof, but it is also possible to use a four-slope hip roof. The gable design makes it possible to provide full-fledged windows in the gables.

In the case of using a hip for lighting rooms, it is possible to install only attic window openings. This option may become more labor-intensive in terms of installing roof elements and developing interior interiors. Cost reduction with a hip roof is achieved due to the absence of gables (the savings will be especially noticeable in brick house, where the cost of materials and the work itself for installing wall fences is quite high).

Do-it-yourself attic construction begins with determining the geometric dimensions and shapes of the roof. We have already discussed the choice of type rafter system houses (gable, hip), after which you will need to decide whether the slope will be straight or broken. The broken design has such disadvantages as increased cost and labor intensity. Its use is justified by the need to increase the height of the room by changing the angle of the roof.

At the design stage it is determined optimal slope roofs. Its choice depends on ergonomic considerations and the type of roofing material, which imposes restrictions.

Before making an attic, it is also necessary to calculate all its load-bearing elements for strength and bending, select the composition of the roof pie, perform thermal calculations and decide on materials. More on this below.

Main load-bearing elements

The design includes the following components:

Rafter legs, which transfer the load from the weight of the roofing and the wall to the walls of the house. The section is selected depending on the angle of inclination, span, pitch and design load. A professional can perform detailed calculations correctly. For private construction, you can use approximate values, but it is best to provide a small margin.
Narozhniki- These are rafter legs that rest on the slopes on one or both sides. The cross section is calculated in the same way as for rafters.
Sloping legs- a design that is used in hip roof. This element serves as a support for the narodniks. The cross-section is taken depending on the load and span; in any case, it should be larger than that rafter legs.
Mauerlat- an element that serves as a support for the footrails and transfers the load from the roof to the walls, distributing it evenly. It would be correct to choose a section with dimensions of 100 by 100 or 150 by 150, depending on the complexity of the object. Installation of the Mauerlat is not carried out during the construction of frame and wooden houses, since in this case its role is played by the upper crown of the walls or trim.
Rigel- a beam, which also serves as a support for the rafters, but in the upper part. The crossbar is installed at the ridge of the roof or at a break in the slope, in the case of a broken structure. The cross-section should be taken depending on the conditions; the recommended value is 200 by 200 mm.
Struts, racks, contractions – additional elements for unfastening elements. Used to reduce the cross-section of load-bearing structures. Their cross section is most often chosen constructively. It is important to consider the convenience of making connections.

A do-it-yourself attic roof must be erected starting with the selection of sections of all elements of the roof frame. The material for manufacturing is selected taking into account the following conditions:

the wood must be coniferous (pine, spruce, larch);
material grade – first or second;
humidity no more than 15%.

Be sure to treat all boards and bars with antiseptic compounds before starting construction.

Thermal calculations

To keep the house warm, you will need to select the thickness of the insulation. Most often, mineral wool is used for attic spaces (more often in slabs than in mats). It is also possible to use polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and ecowool. Having determined what to make the thermal insulation layer from, select its thickness. It is important to consider the height of the rafters. It should always be equal to or greater than the thickness of the thermal insulation. For mineral wool, you will also need to provide a 50 mm thick ventilation gap between the top surface of the thermal insulation and the roofing. If the cross-section of the rafters is small, then in order to fulfill this requirement, a counter-lattice is installed.

Before you build mansard roof You can calculate it with your own hands using heating engineering manually, guided by the joint venture “Thermal protection of buildings.” But it’s better to turn to special programs for help. To correctly calculate the thickness in the Teremok program (available for free on the Internet), you need to know the thermal conductivity of the insulation and the area where the house is being built, the program will find the rest itself.

A do-it-yourself mansard roof differs from a conventional pitched roof only in the presence of thermal insulation. More layers are also added to the cake to protect the insulation. Below step by step instructions will allow you to correctly install the elements of the attic roof.

The procedure is as follows:

fastening the Mauerlat to the wall;
installation of rafters and systems of struts and racks;
installation of waterproofing and wind protection;
sheathing;
roofing;
insulation;
bottom trim.

Assembling the roof frame

Installation begins with the Mauerlat. It is laid on the inner grant of the outer wall. Fastening depends on the material of the load-bearing walls, but in general it can be done in several ways:

on staples;
on stilettos;
on the anchor.

For fragile house wall materials, such as aerated concrete and foam concrete, a monolithic belt is made along the edge, which will prevent the destruction of the walls. For wooden and frame houses Mauerlat is not provided.

Next, you need to install the crossbars, if provided. After being laid support structures, lay out the rafter legs. The fastening of the rafters to the mauerlat can be rigid and hinged. It is better to do it using a notch and fixing it with metal corners on both sides.

This is a fairly old album, so all the drawings in it use nails as fasteners. It is better to replace them with studs. The design of the roof of the house in this regulatory document shown in great detail, so it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with it before starting work.

Before you begin installing insulation in a house, it is necessary to ensure its protection from negative environmental influences. To do this, spread a moisture- and wind-proof membrane over the surface and secure the sheathing. After this, the roofing covering is installed, taking into account the recommendations for the selected material. For example, for bitumen shingles you need a continuous sheathing, which is most often made of moisture-resistant plywood.

Installation of thermal insulation

To insulate a house, you need to install insulation without gaps or cracks. For mineral wool, it will be easier to install if the clear distance between the rafters is 580 or 1180 mm. This will allow the material to be laid with a slight spacer, which will prevent cracks from occurring.

When using expanded polystyrene, the distance between the slabs and rafters is filled with sealant or polyurethane foam.

After laying the insulation, you need to attach a vapor barrier to it from below. After this, the lower sheathing and ceiling sheathing are installed. For an attic, it is best to cover the frame with two layers of 12.5 mm thick plasterboard followed by finishing.

The attic is an attic space used to house utility and living quarters. Its construction in a private house has become quite a popular phenomenon. Thanks to this solution, it is possible to install under the roof original room or several, thereby reducing the cost per square meter. In order to complete the arrangement of the attic floor with your own hands according to all the rules, you need to familiarize yourself with the basic principles of this process at each stage of production.

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Preparatory work

The attic makes it possible to significantly increase the usable area of a residential building. In this case, the under-roof floor can be equipped already in the finished building. In this case, the investment of material costs will be relatively less due to the presence of the necessary foundation, and you can handle the arrangement work yourself.

First of all, the stability of the foundation of a residential building to the influence of additional load from the attic floor is checked. If necessary, the foundation is strengthened; at this stage, consultation with a professional is recommended. He will help you make technical calculations of the strength of load-bearing structural elements, select the components of the roofing pie, building materials and tools.

Choosing a roof option

Thanks to design, you will be able to see the final result of the work and understand the sequence of implementation of the plan. When choosing a roof type, it is necessary to take into account the structural features of the house. The shape of the under-roof floor can be varied. The space inside the room directly depends on it. The following types of roofs are distinguished:

1. Gable, which is a simple option with two slopes, under which an attic is built. Due to its simplicity, there are no significant difficulties during construction and planning. The disadvantage of this type is limited area free space due to low angled ceilings.

2. The roof is broken, gable, and contains four planes located at different angles. This type is distinguished by the complexity of its shape, and therefore difficulties may arise during the construction process. But this disadvantage is compensated by a significant increase in free space.

This design is the most optimal for arranging an attic floor, despite the significant load on the walls.

A gable roof must have sufficient load-bearing supports. Often in the construction of this type of roof, inclined rafters are used. For components The rafter system is supported by load-bearing walls that have the ability to perfectly cope with horizontal and vertical loads.

3. Single-level attic roof. In comparison with the two types listed above, it creates many difficulties during construction, but despite this, this option provides the opportunity to find a very free space. The difference between this type is that the roof seems to slope down to one side.

4. Two-level roof option with extremely complex design. Its project is developed simultaneously with the design of the premises due to the fact that the rooms are located on different tiers of the building.

In order to correctly determine the angle of inclination of the roof, you should take into account its dependence on climatic conditions. For regions with temperate climates and slight precipitation in winter time Roofs with a slight slope are more suitable. For areas where snow and rain fall frequently and in large quantities, it is recommended to opt for higher roofs.

Drafting

When designing an attic space, it is important to provide for all aspects, even the most insignificant ones, since their further refinement will require considerable material investments. When installing a structure over an old one wooden house it is necessary to check for cracks and other damage in the foundation and load-bearing walls. In addition, you should draw up drawings of the future floor.

Main Factors

The process of constructing an attic requires full compliance of all construction work with the prepared design documentation. In turn, these materials should reflect the following principles:

1. Ensuring high-quality waterproofing and thermal insulation. The attic floor is in close proximity to the external environment, so the lack of thermal insulation will lead to maximum heat transfer. And this means additional heating costs during cold periods, negative consequences and condensation from the roof.
2. Choice suitable material for a roof that meets all sound insulation requirements and can prevent leaks. In addition, it is mandatory to treat wooden components with a composition that provides fire and bioprotection.
3. Location of the stairs. This structural element, located outside the building, will significantly save space. Indoors is considered more convenient option, but it takes up a significant part of the area. The best option is a ceiling folding design.
4. Room planning, structure interior partitions and the place of their installation.
5. Power of electrical equipment, its quantity and location of communications.
6. Quantity, sizes window openings and their location.

Purchasing materials and tools

After the attic project has been drawn up, you need to select necessary materials and tools. Calculate the required quantity for construction, insulation and finishing of the attic space. If you don't plan to use it all year round, but only in warm time, then it is allowed to purchase budget materials for the construction.

The cross-sections of the beams can vary according to the size of the structure and the angle of inclination of the slope.

Construction of the structure

Often, when designing a roof, significant errors in insulation and ventilation equipment are allowed. The consequences of such errors are expressed in the appearance of various microorganisms and factors contributing to the occurrence. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to strictly follow all the rules of construction technology.

Attic structure

Mansard roofs are similar to ordinary pitched roofs. Each type has its own distinctive features in design, but in general outline they all consist of the same elements. The structure contains the following components:

1. Rafter legs that transfer the load of the weight of the roofing system to the walls of a residential building. Their cross-section directly depends on the angle of inclination, pitch, span and design load. For individual construction, an approximate calculation of values is allowed, however, it is recommended to make a small margin.
2. Lathing made of boards to which the roof is attached.
3. Ridge purlin, which is the outer part of the roof.
4. Rafters, which are the ribs of the attic structure. For the attic floor, an inclined view is used.
5. Internal supports located vertically and ensuring the strength of the roof.
6. An insulating layer laid between the walls and roof and responsible for compliance temperature regime indoors. Insulation consists of thermal insulation, sound insulation and vapor barrier to protect the roof.
7. Mauerlat, which acts as a support for the rafters and evenly distributes the roofing load on the walls.
8. Crossbar, which serves as a support for the rafters in the upper part of the structure.

Construction stages

The construction of the roof begins with laying and strengthening the mauerlats over the area of the building. Installation is carried out on a pre-laid layer that provides waterproofing. For this purpose, roofing felt, polypropylene, special film or PVC membrane are used.

Next, the frame is installed, the racks of which will support the entire rafter structure. In this case, the cross-section of the beam and the cross-section of the longitudinal beams must correspond to each other. First, vertical posts are located on both sides, and then they are connected to the longitudinal beams using screws and metal corners. A screwdriver will make working with fastening materials much easier.

A cord is stretched between the resulting two arches; its direction will indicate the correctness of the work performed. If it is not strictly horizontal, then one of the arches needs to be made a little shorter. Then, with the necessary spacing for the rafters, the following arches are installed and secured with jumpers, which are fixed using stamped corners.

Installing the upper rafters is quite difficult, since deviations from the specified angles are not allowed. To make this work easier, it is recommended to make two boards that fully match the rafters,a kind of template. With the help of this blank, they are trimmed while still on the ground, and then placed in the place intended for them.

The installation of the rafter system ends with fastening the sheathing made of chipboard, plywood or ordinary boards.

Arrangement of waterproofing

Insulation is an important process in the construction of an attic. These works are carried out after the installation of the rafter system is completed. For this purpose you will need insulation high quality such as mineral wool. It must be protected on both sides to prevent the penetration of steam from the inside and water from the outside. Ideal option Such protection will be provided by a membrane film, which is considered the most common.

Using staples, it is secured to the rafter legs and laid at right angles to the rafters. Its rolling and fastening should be carried out starting from the cornice so that the upper strips overlap the lower ones, thereby preventing the penetration of water. In order to ensure reliability, the fabrics at the joints are glued with moisture-resistant tape. A counter-lattice using slats is attached to the rafters on top of the waterproofing material. Its task is to create a ventilation space between the roofing and waterproofing.

A slatted sheathing with the appropriate parameters is placed and secured vertically to the counter-lattice. The distance between the slats depends on the size of the roofing material, taking into account its overlapping covering. When covering the roof with soft roofing material, sheets of plywood are attached to the counter-lattling instead of slats.

Roof installation

The roofing material is laid on the finally prepared surface, starting from the eaves. The next rows are applied in the same direction as the previous ones, for example, from right to left. The sheets are overlapped both horizontally and vertically. When using metal tiles or a metal profile as a roofing material, the fasteners here will be self-tapping screws equipped with press washers and rubber gaskets and having the same color as the roofing sheets.

The soft roof is attached to the plywood base using staples or nails. The first row must be laid very evenly, since the subsequent ones will be guided by it. When covering a roof, the ridge is one of the main components. It is covered with a profile element made of the same material as for the roof itself.

If ventilation pipes and chimneys pass through the roof, waterproofing is installed around them using special resources.

Insulation process

You can insulate the attic using various materials; you can use polystyrene foam, various blocks or insulation from raw materials of mineral origin. Fiberboard is one of the most popular materials for thermal insulation.

Typically, these types of work begin with the walls. Insulation is fixed to them using fasteners; PVA glue or adhesive mastics are used to attach the material to plastered surfaces.

The ceiling covering stage is extremely simple. The plate, carefully applied to the mounting location, is fixed with nails, special supports made of boards and duralumin plates.

The floor can be insulated in various ways. First, its surface is covered with roofing felt in two layers, and then fiberboard is fixed and the finished floor is installed. It is possible to first lay fiberboard slabs, and stick carpet on top, which is easy to use.

Before gluing the carpet, it must be left unrolled for seven to ten days. You must first apply glue to the fiberboard, and then press it to the surface using boards and leave it to dry for a day.

Interior decoration

Landscaping the attic from the inside usually starts from the ceiling. The ideal option would be to install a suspended structure, for which lining is perfect. In addition to it, plywood, hardboard and other materials are often used. For convenience, it is recommended to first build the ceiling and then fix it to the crossbar of the truss.

When decorating walls, wooden beams good quality is mounted on the rafter posts of the crossbars. Finishing material is nailed to the prepared frame.

Niches created by character roofing structure, can be covered with plasterboard or other raw materials, thereby creating original cabinets that are later used for storing things.

The types of living areas in the attic are arranged based on the personal preferences of the owner. This could be a bedroom, a children's room, an office for work, or even a billiard room.

Thus, you can build and equip an attic with your own hands, based on your needs, as well as material and physical capabilities. Due to the lack of experience in performing construction work, it is recommended to invite professional craftsmen to construct the attic. This will prevent unnecessary problems and allow you to short term construct the building according to the planned project.

Building an attic on a house with your own hands means that its owner approached the arrangement of the home competently and practically, and everyone square meter is valued quite highly. However self-construction Such a design is not an easy task that will require a lot of effort, time and expense.

What is the definition of an attic?

An attic or attic floor, according to regulatory sources, is a space under the roof of a house used for the location of residential or utility rooms. In simple words, an attic means an attic that is equipped with separate rooms with the necessary heat and waterproofing.

The main difference between an attic superstructure and a residential floor is the height of the walls, which should be no more than 1.5 m on the outside of the house. In case this legal requirement is not complied with, the owner will be forced to pay taxes for the additional footage of the building.

It is possible to increase the area of the home by constructing an attic even at the construction design stage, and it is also possible to remodel the upper part of the roof for an add-on to the finished house. However, in order to avoid damage to the foundation and walls of the building from the additional load, you need to know all the nuances of installing the extension.

Various types of add-ons

Before you start making an attic at home, you need to decide appearance superstructure, which will not only meet the requirements, but also harmonize perfectly with the main part of the building. The following types of extensions of this type are most often used in practice:

Single-level under a gable roof. The most common type of attic, since its construction does not require special construction skills, and the cost of materials will be minimal. However, a significant disadvantage of this structure is its small size.
Single level with . To make such a structure, you need to put in a little more effort than in the previous version, but due to the roof of this shape, the interior becomes noticeably more spacious.

The above options for superstructures will not be difficult to build even on old house. After all, in essence, this is the same attic space, but more equipped for a comfortable pastime.

For reference! There are other types of attics, such as single-level with consoles or multi-level. They are more expensive and difficult to design. In addition, such varieties are not entirely suitable for erection on a finished building.

Materials required for construction

Once the home owner has decided what type of attic floor he is going to build, the materials necessary for the process should be prepared.

As a rule, to construct an attic on a built house, lightweight materials are used, such as wooden beams, and also, in some cases, aerated concrete, which has good heat-saving properties. The frame structure is also suitable for such purposes.

The following elements are most often used for construction:

rafter and sloping legs;
connoisseurs;
Mauerlat;
crossbar;
various struts, grips and racks.

In this case, it is better to choose beams from coniferous wood species, such as spruce, pine and larch, the humidity of which should be no more than 15%, and the grade should be 1st or 2nd. In addition, it is imperative to treat the material with an antiseptic solution before construction.

In the case where the attic floor was planned during the design of the building, any materials for its construction can be chosen, depending on the type of superstructure, its dimensions and the preferences of the owner. Most often, such an attic is built from brick, concrete and foam blocks.

Requirements for installing an attic

In addition to personal preferences, when constructing an attic floor, certain SNiP standards must be observed. The main ones include the following conditions:

The thickness of the rafters is at least 250 mm, which will allow a suitable layer of insulation (more than 200 mm) to be laid between them.
Insulation materials should be chosen that will not lose their properties in conditions of high humidity. Foamed polystyrene is best suited for these purposes, as it is lightweight and retains heat well in the room. Mineral wool should not be used as insulation because it absorbs moisture well, as a result of which it quickly deteriorates.
Hoods and vents must be installed between the insulation layer and the roof so that air can move freely in this space.
The outer side of the rafters should be covered with a waterproofing layer, and experts also recommend adding an additional layer of soundproofing materials.

Regardless of what type of attic you plan to build, the listed requirements must be taken into account.

Attention! On the attic floor, a vapor barrier must be installed on the inner sides of the roof in accordance with the standards.

Construction of the attic step by step

After the project and all the drawings of the attic floor have been completed, and the material for construction has been prepared, work can begin. However, if the future owner of the building prepared them independently, he should still consult with an experienced specialist, since in such a matter the most important accurate calculations, especially if we are talking about erecting a superstructure on an old building.

Construction of the frame

The construction of an attic with your own hands should begin with installing the Mauerlat on internal sides external walls. As a rule, they are most often used for this wooden beams, which can be mounted on anchors, studs or brackets, depending on the material of the load-bearing walls. However, for wooden and frame buildings there is no need to install a Mauerlat.

After the support is erected, it is necessary to install vertical posts on it, which can be made of wood, metal, or foam concrete. Transverse beams are placed on top of them in increments of no more than 2 meters. This distance will be equal to the location of the rafters of the attic floor. The entire structure is fastened together with metal corners, screws or nail plates and tightened with a jumper.

Then the lower rafters should be installed. To do this, a groove is made at the base of the beam in order to securely install it on the Mauerlat, and its upper part is cut to the required length according to the angle of inclination.

The next step in the construction of the attic floor is the installation of the upper rafters. To determine the correct angle and center, this part the frame is assembled on the ground and then secured to the structure.

Roofing installation

After the attic frame is installed, it must be covered with a vapor barrier material and secured with metal brackets.

Attention! For vapor barrier, it is better to choose a fire-resistant and non-toxic material, especially if you plan to equip a bedroom or children's room in the attic.

Then a layer of insulation should be laid on the vapor barrier material, while preventing the appearance of cracks between its slabs and rafters. It must be secured by installing it on top of the sheathing. After which it is covered with a layer of waterproofing to protect the wood from moisture, and roofing material is already laid on top of it.

As the above material shows, the construction of an attic can be done with your own hands; all kinds of videos that can easily be found on the Internet can help in this matter. However, you should not trust them completely; it would be more correct to seek advice from experienced specialists.

Using all possible space, giving the house originality and significantly reducing heat loss through the roof - these are the tasks that the attic solves. If there is a certain margin of safety at the foundation, in this way you can turn one-story house in two-level. Another attractive thing is that you can build an attic roof with your own hands even without special construction skills. It is important not to make a mistake with the choice of materials and do everything according to the rules.

Windows on a regular floor are located in the walls. In attics there are no or almost no walls. They are replaced by a roof. That’s why windows are made special: they not only must let in sufficient light, but also withstand wind and snow loads, which are much greater on the roof than on the walls.

Dormer windows

When planning an attic, you should take into account the recommendations of SNiP. They recommend making the window area no less than 10% of the floor area. So if the attic is divided into several rooms, each should have a window.

Of all the methods shown in the photo for installing skylights with an attic, inclined installation is the easiest to implement. In this case, it is necessary to ensure the proper degree of waterproofing of the junction, and also to use special models with reinforced frames and reinforced glass - the load on the surface can be significant.

Advantages of a sloping roof window:

more light, less sharp boundaries of light and shadow;
the roof surface remains flat, its relief is not complicated;
relatively easy installation.

When planning such a window, it is necessary to remember that its area increases with increasing angle of inclination. At what height is it more convenient to install such a window and how its height increases in centimeters depending on the inclination, look at the photo.

The steeper the slope relative to the floor, the smaller the window height should be.

The width of the window frame should be 4-6 cm less than the pitch between the rafters. Then it can be easily installed without disturbing the structure of the frame. If the window is wider, it is necessary to make a reinforced beam above it and calculate the load.

If you need to have a larger window, it is easier to place two narrow ones side by side. They look no worse than one big one, and there will be fewer problems.

When installing a dormer window, the roof geometry becomes more complicated: a valley appears on top and on the sides. Because of this, the rafter system becomes more complex both during planning and during assembly. The complexity of laying the roof covering also increases. All valleys are the places where leaks are most likely to occur. Therefore, everything needs to be done very carefully. In regions with a large number It is advisable to install snow guards over such windows to prevent them from being blown away in the event of a sudden meltdown.

Installation of a vertical dormer window in an attic roof

The advantage of such a window is that you can stand next to it at full height. But they let in less light, the terrain becomes more complex and the roof becomes more problematic.

A recessed window is usually used if there is access to a balcony through it. In other cases, this method of arrangement is not the best option: little light gets in, the shadows turn out to be very deep, which is tiring for the eye, the geometry also becomes more complex, although not to the same extent as in the previous version.

The easiest way is to make a window at the end of the attic. In this case, a reinforced frame or reinforced glass is not needed. Just high-quality glass is quite enough. This option is most often seen on country attics: This is the most inexpensive option that can easily be done with your own hands.

Rafter system

When independently building private houses with an attic, they usually choose a broken roof. It allows you to get a room of significant area, larger than under a gable.

With equal width of the base (house) attic room under a sloping roof you get more than under a regular gable roof. The rafter system is becoming more complex, but gable roof with an attic under a sloping roof is still more popular

The design of the sloping mansard roof is such that the overhangs can be lowered quite low, giving the house interesting view. But the long overhang of the roof serves not only a decorative role. They also cover the upper part of the wall from precipitation and divert the bulk of the water away from the foundation. Although when planning you need to keep in mind that in strong winds they increase windage. Because of this, it is necessary to use more powerful boards and beams. Therefore, the size of the roof overhang is chosen based on several considerations, the main one of which is weather conditions.

Tilt angle

Depends on the roofing material, but most of all - on the region and weather conditions. The classic version is shown in the figure: the lower slopes in relation to the plane of the attic floor are inclined by 60°, the upper slopes by 30°. Based on these data and the parameters of your building, you can calculate all lengths. Just take into account that according to SNiP, the ceiling height in the attic cannot be less than 2 m. Then, by definition, this is an attic. A person will feel comfortable if the ceiling is raised to a height of at least 2.2-2.3 m. Based on this, according to the rules of geometry, calculate the required lengths.

In the classic version, the load from precipitation on side surfaces may not be taken into account. Precipitation can only be retained on the upper part, the angle of inclination of which is less than 45°.

In general, the inclination of the side surfaces usually varies between 45° and up to 80°. The steeper the slope, the greater the windage it has, this must be taken into account: in regions with strong winds it is better to make flatter roofs. Then wind loads will be perceived much better.

Types of rafter systems for sloping roofs

The design of a sloping mansard roof is one of the options for the rafter system (the most common)

For making a frame sloping roof with their own hands, they most often use pine lumber, grade no lower than 2. The choice of cross-section of timber and boards depends on the size of the roof, the selected roofing covering (its weight), wind and snow loads in the region, and the pitch of the rafters. All these parameters are taken into account in the calculation. The methodology is prescribed in SNiP 2.08.01-89 and TKP 45-5.05-146-2009.

One of the options for constructing a frame with hanging rafters

The figure above shows a drawing of a frame with hanging rafters. It can only be implemented if the base of the upper triangle is no more than 4.5 meters (in this case, this is the width of the attic room). If more, you will have to make layered rafters, which should rest on load-bearing wall in the middle (the attic will be divided into two parts by a row of beams).

Another version of the upper part is shown in the photo below (the picture is clickable). In this case, the side rafters are reinforced with struts. They significantly increase the rigidity of the system.

There is a second way to achieve a similar effect - to establish contractions - in the figure they are only outlined with barely visible lines. The length of the side rafter leg is divided by three, and contractions are established in these places. They will be needed if the roofing will have a significant weight.

Option for installing a sloping roof truss system - with struts that increase the rigidity of the system

For a building that is small in size, the roof frame can be generally simple: at the top there are two hanging rafters, a tie rod, floor beams, racks and side rafters (pictured below).

Installation of a rafter system for a broken mansard roof for a small house

How to calculate a sloping roof

The attic sloping roof of a small house (no more than 6-7 meters wide) has been built so many times that, based on experience, we can say what materials should be used. Many parameters are dependent on other materials. For example, the installation step of the rafters is tied to the parameters of the insulation. To ensure that there is as little waste as possible during insulation and installation is simpler, it is necessary that the distance from one rack to another be slightly less than the width of the insulation (20-30 mm). So, if you are going to use mineral wool, its width is 60 cm. Then the racks need to be installed so that the gap between two adjacent ones is 57-58 cm and no more.

The width of the board for the rafter leg is again determined based on the insulation. For the central zone of Russia, the required thickness is basalt wool is 200-250 mm. That's not all. In order for the thermal insulation to dry, a ventilation gap of 20-30 mm is required (without it, condensation will gradually rot the wood and render the mineral wool unusable). In total, it turns out that the minimum width of the rafter leg should be 230 mm. The thickness of the board is at least 50 mm. This is in regions with light winds and not very heavy snowfalls. To summarize, for all rafters - ridge and side - a board of 230 * 50 mm is required.

If lumber with such characteristics turns out to be too expensive, insulation can be done in two directions: partly along the rafters, partly, filling the sheathing, across. You can lay a minimum of 100 mm of basalt wool, therefore you can take a standard board 50 * 150 mm and leave a 50 mm ventilation gap, or order a non-standard 130 * 50 mm. Look at what is more profitable for the money.

For racks and beams, it is better to take a beam of at least 80 * 80 mm, better - 100 * 100 mm. Especially in areas with difficult weather conditions - heavy snowfalls or strong winds.

Order a more accurate calculation from specialists. This is a long process consisting of collecting loads from the roofing material, the structural elements themselves, wind and snow loads. After which, according to a certain formula, elements are selected. For more detailed information on how the calculation is carried out, see the following video.

Do-it-yourself mansard roof: installation procedure

The design of the Mauerlat on mansard roofs is no different from the standard version. If or logs, you can use the upper crown as a mauerlat. It is only pre-treated with impregnation with high protective properties.

If the wall is made of foam blocks, a reinforced monolithic belt is placed on top of it. On brick wall or made of shell rock or other similar materials, the construction of such a belt is not necessary. Waterproofing is laid in two layers on the wall, and on top is a timber treated with an antiseptic - 150 * 150 mm or a log. It is secured with embedded studs.

When assembling all elements, long nails are used - at least 150 mm long. In the most critical places, it is better to connect three or more elements using bolts or studs with double-sided threads. It is advisable to strengthen all joints with steel plates or corners.

First way

Installation of attic roof rafters is done in two ways. First: they assemble the parts on the ground, then lift them up in finished form. There, the outer structures, which will become pediments, are put up first. They are placed vertically and secured. It is often more convenient to secure them with long bars nailed to the wall (temporary). The following assembled structures are inserted into the prepared recesses in the Mauerlat (they are made at the required pitch). They are positioned strictly vertically and carefully secured. If necessary, additional temporary spacers are installed to fix them in the desired position. Side beams are installed.

How to build a sloping roof in this way and assemble the nodes, see the video below.

Second way

The second method - the construction of a sloping roof is carried out sequentially by assembling elements directly on site. This method is more convenient if the structure is large and when assembled it can only be lifted using special equipment (crane).

First, the floor beams are laid. Stands and ties are attached to them, and temporary spacers are installed to hold them in the vertical direction. Next, the upper and side rafter legs are assembled, and the tie rods and jibs are installed.

During installation, the following sequence of actions is observed: first, the outermost elements are installed and adjusted to the desired position, and securely fastened. If necessary, use temporary spacers. A fishing line, rope, and cord are stretched between them, which will serve as a guide for the installation of all subsequent elements. This simple move allows you to get the ideal geometry (don’t forget to check the slope angle, verticality or horizontality).

Tightening bars are attached on top of the racks, to which the side rafters are then fixed and onto which the tightening of the upper triangle is installed. The ties are secured using metal corners. Since the beams are long, they sag. This is later eliminated - after installing the upper rafter legs - with the help of vertical beams of fixed or adjustable height. And temporarily they can be supported with racks (so as not to pull the entire system).

To make it easier to bear desired angle When installing the side rafter legs, templates are made according to which cuts are made. But since the geometry of buildings built with your own hands is rarely ideal, adjustments may be necessary. To check the resulting angle of inclination, another template is knocked down from several boards, which is used to check the correct installation.

If the standard length of lumber - 6 meters - is not enough, either order the required length (expensive) or increase it. When building up, two boards measuring at least 0.6 meters (30 cm on each side of the joint) are nailed to the joint. They are nailed on both sides or bolts are used.

A reliable way to build rafters. The length of the “patch” is at least 60 cm

After installing the side rafters, all that remains is to install the top ones. A template is also made for them, pre-cut on the ground, and installed on top.

The top part can be made in different ways. Its structure depends on the width of the base. How to make it, look at the photo below.

Since the structure of an attic sloping roof does not provide for the presence of a ridge, a beam is placed in the middle to tighten it, to which the slopes are attached, fixing the triangle in the required position.

Nodes and their drawings

When installing a rafter system, questions may arise regarding the assembly of nodes—the intersections and connections of several structural elements. In the photo you see drawings of key connections.

The second option for connecting the side layered rafters and the upper triangle. Bolts are used for more secure fastening.

How to make a do-it-yourself fastening of the upper tee and rafter leg on an attic roof

Methods for attaching rafter legs to the mauerlat or, as in this case, to the side beam are shown in the figure below. To make it easier to mount a heavy element, a thrust board (bar) is nailed to the bottom of the rafter, which limits its movement: the board rests against the edge and does not allow it to sink lower.

It is difficult to imagine the modern design of a cottage or house without the presence of an attic floor. It is also being built everywhere in old houses in place of a dilapidated attic, thereby increasing the total living space. A do-it-yourself attic is a complex project, but doable.

Do-it-yourself attic construction - first steps

In fact, this is not so - most experts in the field of attic construction unanimously claim that from the angle of inclination and other changes in the design of the rafters, the walls experience enormous load and are subject to significant deformation. Therefore, before making an attic yourself, we highly recommend contacting a specialist so that he can carry out preliminary calculations and, based on them, drew a design for a rafter system that is suitable in your case.

Construction of houses with an attic - choosing the right technology

Today there are quite a lot of buildings that have a clearly defined attic. This or absolutely new home, where the attic was designed in advance, or it was attached to an old building, which was originally thick-walled and solid. The easiest way to recognize an attic is by its gable sloping roof - this is the most suitable design for the construction of an attic floor.

The use of a gable sloping roof on the walls of a house compared to pitched roof exerts a huge burden. However, for an attic room it is much more convenient, since it creates a lot of space inside.

A gable broken structure has a drawback - in the absence of a sufficient number of load-bearing supports, the roof is less durable compared to a single-pitch roof roofing system, and additional load-bearing supports provide extra pressure on the walls. The construction of a gable sloping roof, as a rule, requires the use of layered rafters, which require massive building walls that can withstand vertical and horizontal loads.

How to build a house with an attic - roofing system

The convenience of the attic space determines the ability to move at full height under the rafter system. Please note that for insulation you will need to allocate from 10 to 15 cm from each surface, including the ceiling. So the first impression about the height of the attic may be wrong. However, the safety of the entire structure should be put in the first position. To install additional reinforcing beams, it would be correct to cut off some part of the attic rather than risk destroying the entire roof frame.

Before you build a house with an attic, prepare the necessary tools and materials. Everything is simple with tools: a hammer, a hacksaw or a jigsaw, all kinds of measuring tools. Materials - nails or screws of various lengths, antifungal agent, 40 * 150 mm board for lathing at intervals, for creating a continuous sheathing - OSB sheets.

The type of roof covering determines the design of the sheathing. If you plan to use soft roofing material, then the best option there will be a continuous sheathing, and if it is hard - by force own hands The sheathing is installed in a staggered manner. In the process of installing a wooden frame (rafters and sheathing), you should immediately make places for the location of roof windows. It is also necessary to think in advance about reliable fastening window frames

Attic in a private house - auxiliary elements

There are primary and secondary elements of the attic. The first includes insulation, rafters and supporting structures, and the second includes windows, doors and drainage systems. Both play an important role. The hardest thing can be to decide on the windows. Before you start choosing windows for the attic, you need to clearly understand their purpose in terms of functionality. Today, the building materials market offers the buyer two types of windows - inclined and vertical.

It is known that the first ones are mounted directly in the roof plane and transmit 40–45% more natural (sun) light than vertical ones. But in winter, the slanted windows are covered with snow, which negatively affects both the overall illumination of the room and their technical condition. The doors to the attic act as a kind of connecting link between this room and the main building. They should be selected according to two main criteria: the first is strength, the second is good thermal insulation properties.

In addition, the doors should not stand out from the overall interior and there should be a free entrance to the attic through them. Creating an attic with your own hands is impossible without a drainage system. In this regard, it is much easier with vertical windows, since they come complete with ebbs, but when installing inclined windows, you need to carefully consider the gutter system in advance, otherwise the room located under the attic will constantly experience negative impact excess water and moisture.

Do-it-yourself attic - thermal insulation of the room

Considering that the roof slopes are directly affected by atmospheric temperature changes, the attic room must be carefully lined with thermal insulation. It is even more necessary if the roof is covered with metal slate or metal tiles. One of the thermal insulation options is mineral wool slabs, which have a fairly high density and thickness.

This material is environmentally friendly, and also has excellent heat resistance, maximum fire resistance and is easy to install. When laying thermal insulation, you need to create some distance between the roof itself and the insulation; this gap should be left to ensure natural ventilation of the thermal insulation layer. Best thermal insulation is considered external - in this case, a layer of insulation, together with a vapor barrier and waterproofing, is laid on top of the rafter system, before the roofing material is installed.

This method allows you to achieve a monolithic coating and avoid the appearance of cold bridges. However, home owners do not always have the opportunity to carry out insulation before laying the roof. In such cases, internal insulation is used. The material is laid in the spaces between the rafters (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam) or sprayed onto all structural elements (ecowool, polyurethane foam).