Hydrangea: care in open ground and features of crop propagation. Why hydrangea does not grow, the main diseases of the flower There are brown spots on hydrangea flowers

Preface

Whether it's flowers on the windowsill or in the garden, you always want to see them blooming and beautiful, but hated pests or improper care can play a cruel joke on them and lead to the development of hydrangea disease. To avoid negative consequences, prevention should be carried out, and if infection occurs, know how to properly deal with it.

This amazing flower has a large “family” of subspecies, each of which differs in the shape of the inflorescences, color palette, curly leaves and abundant flowering. The main color of hydrangea is white. However, there are also varieties that have a fairly large range of colors. These include flowers large leaf hydrangea. They can be pink, blue, red and lilac (can be seen in the photograph). Moreover, their color directly depends on the acidity of the soil.

Beautiful geranium on the site

In an acidic environment, the petals become blue, in an alkaline environment they become pink or lilac, and in a neutral environment they become light beige and almost white. Hydrangea is also one of those amazing plants that are able to accumulate aluminum, due to which the flowers acquire a rich blue tint. The name of the plant is given in honor of the sister of the prince of the Holy Roman Empire - Hortensia. And its botanical name is hydrangea. Translated from Greek it means “vessel of water.” And this is not surprising, because the plant loves moisture so much.

Infectious diseases caused by insect pests and bacteria are not the only source of infection and death of hydrangeas. Many people don’t even think that poor-quality seedlings may be the root of the problem. Therefore, you should be especially careful when purchasing seedlings, purchasing them from trusted suppliers. However, even if healthy seedlings are purchased, insufficient care for them can lead to yellowness, the so-called chlorosis. The plant's metabolism is disrupted, the hydrangea leaves become light yellow, the veins darken.

Signs of yellow leaves

The main reasons for yellowing of leaves can be the following factors:

• Large accumulation of moisture. Although hydrangea loves moisture, too much can be destructive.
• Reduced soil acidity. In addition to moisture, the plant prefers an acidic environment. If such a medium is not available, then when watering you can slightly acidify the water with citric acid.
• Direct hit sunlight. Like many plants, hydrangea does not tolerate aggressive ultraviolet rays. Therefore, semi-shaded areas will be an ideal option.
• a lack of mineral fertilizers. The lack of necessary fertilizing in the soil can also negatively affect the condition of the above-ground parts of plants and lead to yellowness.
• Excess humus and lime in the soil. There must be moderation in everything.

To prevent the development of chlorosis, regularly fertilize hydrangeas with iron-containing substances, and also use soft water for irrigation, after letting it sit for several days. Optimal soil is considered to be an environment with a pH level of 6-4. At home, it can be determined using litmus paper. When in contact with a humid environment, the paper turns yellow, which means the soil is not acidic enough. Blue color indicates neutral soil, green-blue indicates absolutely neutral soil. If signs of disease appear, spray the plant with a chelated form of iron, chemicals Ferovit and Antichlorosis. And also do not forget to feed the soil by making a solution - 4 g per liter of water citric acid and 3 g of iron sulfate. Moreover, it can be used to spray fading leaves or water the soil.

In addition to yellowness, another non-infectious problem may arise - plant wilting, in which at the same time the leaves may dry out and fall off. Drought may be the cause insufficient watering hydrangeas and dry air. These factors especially affect large-leaved hydrangea, whose inflorescences may fade even with sufficient moisture. To prevent infection indoor hydrangea Ventilate the room regularly and ensure intensive watering, especially on a hot, dry summer day. And when growing garden hydrangea don't forget to plant a tall one nearby annual plant to reduce the exposure of the plant to intense solar radiation.

Despite the fact that garden hydrangeas are rarely subject to fungal infections, you need to know your enemies by sight. If you are still faced with a similar problem, then your first lifeline will be treating the flower with copper oxychloride, which is rightfully considered one of the most effective means from fungal diseases.

Gray rot on leaves

White rot. The main source of damage to an adult plant is root system. As a result, the hydrangea ceases to receive the required amount of nutrients, it acquires a brown tint uncharacteristic for this plant and begins to gradually die. The defeat of young hydrangea begins with darkening of the shoots, which over time also become covered with a white coating, similar in appearance to small accumulations of cotton wool, and rot. If the disease progresses, sclerotia - black spots - develop on the white plaque. Even after removing the plant from the soil, the white rot pathogen remains in the ground along with the remains of the hydrangea. Therefore, in this case, the soil must be changed or steamed. Treatment of indoor hydrangea must be carried out using fungicides, among which the drug has shown high effectiveness Fitosporin.

Gray rot. This is a more dangerous and difficult to treat disease (shown in the photo). Its main signs are watery and soft plant tissues, with a characteristic gray fluff-like coating on the affected areas. If the weather is dry enough, the dead tissue begins to dry out, and holes form in its place. The first thing treatment begins with is the removal of dead parts. Works well among fungicides for indoor hydrangea Skor, Pure flower, Fundazol. For garden large-leaved hydrangea, the drug is best suited Rovral Flo 255 SC. Spraying is carried out at intervals of 2 weeks - 3 times. Among more available funds can be called spraying with solutions of soap and copper. Other methods of control in the garden can be found in the article.

False powdery mildew. Due to the fact that powdery mildew, like hydrangea, loves high humidity, its occurrence is not surprising. Signs of this fungal disease– dark spots on stems and leaves, oily to the touch. The plant is treated with a soap-copper solution, at a rate of 15 g copper sulfate and 150 g of soap per bucket of water. Powdery mildew appears as yellow-green spots on the leaves, which later become darker, acquiring a brown tint with a clear outline. Moreover, this color is noticeable on the upper leaves, which cannot be said about the lower ones. They are covered with a purple and silver coating. If treatment is not started, the leaves will eventually begin to become deformed and fall off.

The fight is carried out by spraying with fungicides Fitosporin-M and Alirin-B, and in advanced cases Cumulus, Topaz, Thiovit Jet, Chistotsvet, Skor.

Septoria. Characterized by the appearance of small brown spots irregular shape, which eventually merge into one pattern. As a result, the leaves of garden hydrangea dry out and die. To prevent further spread of the disease, the affected leaves are cut off and the sections are treated with preparations containing copper - copper sulfate, copper oxychloride, Bordeaux mixture. Rust is easily recognized by the rusty color of the leaves. It develops mainly due to an excess of nitrogen in the soil. Copper oxychloride and fungicides help well in the fight against the disease. Topaz and Falcon.

One of the most common viral diseases Ring spot is recognized. It appears as blurry spots up to about 2 cm in diameter, round shape(as in the photo), which significantly deform the leaves of the plant. Gradually they begin to wrinkle, become asymmetrical and die off.

Signs of ring spot

If the disease has severely affected the plant, then in addition it loses the ability to lay new buds. And if this ability is retained, the flowers of large-leaved hydrangea turn out small and weakened. This disease is especially active on adult hydrangeas. Unfortunately, there is no panacea for ring spotting. From now on, pay more attention to the quality of seedlings, which can be the main source of infection.

In addition to fungal and viral diseases, pests cause significant damage to indoor and garden hydrangeas.

If you grow hydrangea in the garden, then be prepared for a possible attack by a common or grape snail. These mollusks especially like the above-ground parts of hydrangea (young shoots, leaves, buds). The main location of snails is in shaded areas of gardens with high humidity. Mollusks exert their destructive power in the spring after the winter thaw. They get out of the ground and begin to feed on the succulent shoots of the plant, filled with fresh cell sap. In addition to the mechanical destruction of these pests, insecticide treatment can also be used against them. Metaldehyde or Thunderstorm. Moreover, for the best effect, it is recommended not to add them to the soil, but to pour them into plastic cups and place them around the plant.

Country snail - the enemy of flowers

Spider mite. If small yellow spots, smoothly merging into a marble pattern, attack the leaves of your favorite indoor hydrangea, then rest assured that this is the work of spider mite(in the photograph). If measures are not taken, such leaves will dry out and fall off. And in the event of a large-scale infection on the hydrangea, you will be able to see the web where its creators are hiding. At the initial stage, the usual treatment of the plant with soap or mineral oil. In more advanced cases, use insecticides - Akarin, Vermitek, Fitoverm, Tiofos, Molniyu.

Aphid. It can settle on both indoor and large-leaved garden hydrangeas. The main mechanism of its harmful effects is the sucking of plant cell sap and the deposition of sugary secretions, which can subsequently cause the development of sooty fungus. Remember, aphids are a dangerous carrier of the virus, causing yellowing and death of the upper part of the plant in case of severe infection. At the initial stage, fighting aphids is simple; just treat the hydrangea leaves with a soap solution. But in more advanced cases, the help of insecticides will be required - Commander, Fitoverma, Aktary, Tobacco Dust, Akarina, Antilina.

Root-knot nematode. Microscopic pests that cause significant damage to the root system by forming round swellings on the roots are called galls (they can be seen in the photo). As the infection progresses, the roots begin to rot and gradually die. Thus, nutrients stop reaching the plant, and it dies completely. It is recommended to combat the pest on a garden scale by spraying with an insecticide BI-58. Home disinfestation is more gentle, and you can use a solution for it Tank Ecogel. It is advisable to treat the soil with the same solution before planting seeds, as a preventive measure.

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Growing hydrangea in open ground, you need to be prepared for the fact that the plant is susceptible to diseases and can be damaged by pests. However, if you know how to deal with these troubles, big problems can be avoided.

Hydrangea diseases

Downy mildew

The most common flower disease is downy mildew. “Oily” yellowish spots appear on the leaves. As the disease progresses, they change their color, gradually darkening and becoming quite big sizes. The lower part of the leaves is covered with a yellow coating.

The cause of this disease is either too wet soil on which the flower grows, or unfavorable weather conditions, which are characterized by high humidity air. Even if almost the entire plant is affected by the disease, it can be saved.

One of the methods of combating downy mildew is to treat the flower with the so-called copper-soap liquid. Method for preparing the solution: dilute 15 g of copper sulfate and 150 g of crushed green soap in 10 liters of water. This solution is absolutely harmless to the plant, so treatment can be carried out 1-2 times a week for preventive purposes. You can also treat the plant with fungicides that can destroy this disease.

Chlorosis

Another common disease of hydrangea is chlorosis. The main sign of the disease is a sharp lightening of the leaves. In this case, the veins remain dark in color. The disease can be caused by too much lime in the soil or an excess of humus, which is used as fertilizer.

At the first signs of disease, the plant must be treated for 3 weeks. potassium nitrate solution: 40 g diluted in 10 liters of water. After this course of treatment, the plant should be treated with a solution of iron sulfate in the same concentration for several days.

Gray rot

Gray rot is another disease that can cause the death of hydrangea. Rot affects the entire plant: leaves, stems, buds and even flower stalks. Signs of the disease are the appearance of wet spots with a gray coating, which grow to quite large sizes. When these spots appear, it is necessary to immediately take measures to combat the disease.

An important condition for preventing disease is destruction of diseased leaves. If the rot has not spread to the entire plant, it should be treated Bordeauxliquid. If the spots have spread to the stem, the plant must be dug up and destroyed.

Hydrangea pests

Spider mite

One of the main pests of hydrangea is the spider mite. It can be detected by examining the bottom of the leaf. A characteristic feature the presence of this pest is a brown cobweb. Affected leaves turn yellow and then become marbled in color. Over time, the leaves begin to dry out and fall off.

Favorable conditions for the development of spider mites are high air humidity and heat. Under such conditions, it can produce up to 15 generations in a year. If a pest is detected, the plant must be sprayed Thiophos, diluting 7 g of the substance in 10 liters of water.

Leaf aphid

Plants that are planted indoors are susceptible to leaf aphid. To prevent the appearance of this pest, you should use anabasine sulfate solution(20 g dissolved in 10 liters of water). The plant must be treated 2 times per season: at the beginning and in the middle of summer.

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Hydrangeas are shrubs of incredible beauty. For the wide variety of inflorescence forms, abundant flowering, a wide palette of colors, large curly leaves, as well as the unpretentiousness of hydrangea are valued in ornamental gardening. Hydrangeas are especially spectacular in the fall, because that’s when amazing plant at the same time you can see seed heads, buds and leaves of a wide variety of colors.

Hydrangea belongs to the hydrangea family; this family is quite extensive and includes about 100 plant species. In nature, there are a huge number of varieties of hydrangeas: deciduous and evergreen, upright and climbing, dwarf and tree-like, as well as frost-resistant and heat-loving. The natural habitat of hydrangea is the Himalayas, Northern and South America

, Central and East Asia. The name "hydrangea" comes from the combination of the Greek words hydor (water) and angos (vessel, container) and was given to the plant for the shape of its seed pods. Did you know? Also, the epithet “French” is often added to the name “hydrangea”. This is because Western world

I learned about this plant after the first French expedition around the world. One of the features of hydrangea is its natural resistance to various diseases . The bushes of this plant are still affected from time to time various kinds

diseases. The plant is also attacked by pests: aphids, spider mites, slugs.

Hydrangea, its diseases and pests are what both an experienced gardener and a novice amateur florist should pay attention to. Snails just love hydrangeas. Often the plant attacks, or common amber. Most of all they prefer moist, shady or dense planting sites. When pests get on the hydrangea, they eat the buds and then switch to the leaves and young shoots. Snails are a great danger to plants that overwinter under cover. These pests penetrate the soil surrounding the bush, and after the onset of spring and rising temperatures, they climb to the surface and eat the first buds and leaves. Sometimes you can find whole clutches of snails near hydrangea bushes.

Snails on hydrangea - what to do and how can you get rid of them? To do this, you should resort to the usual mechanical destruction these pests and the clutches they leave behind.

You need to do this throughout the spring and summer. Important!

Metaldehyde or "Thunderstorm" is also used to kill snails. They are poisonous drugs, and therefore refrain from placing them directly on the surface of the earth, as they clog the soil, and when mixed with soil, they simply stop working. Place these chemicals in small cups and place them horizontally around your hydrangea bush.

How to deal with spider mites Have you noticed that the back side of the hydrangea leaf is covered with small spots? yellow color , which after some time merge into a whole marble pattern? Rest assured, hydrangea has been favored by spider mites.

The leaves affected by its vital activity dry out and then fall off. In order to finally make sure what happened to the hydrangea, arm yourself with a magnifying glass and carefully examine the leaf from the back side. Spider mites live in this very place. Recognizing them is quite simple: they are small insects with a body length of only 1 - 2 mm, having a milky-transparent, red, yellow-green or orange color. To eliminate spider mites, products such as “Fufan” (diluted in a proportion of 5 ml per 5 liters of water) are suitable. Two sprays with the resulting solution will be enough to kill ticks.

, Central and East Asia. The name "hydrangea" comes from the combination of the Greek words hydor (water) and angos (vessel, container) and was given to the plant for the shape of its seed pods. Thiophos, which is a fairly strong insecticide, will also cope well with this.

You can independently control the color of hydrangea by simply adjusting the level of acidity and alkalinity of the soil. You can get rid of aphids using safe and– just water the plant with a powerful stream of water. Do not overdo it so as not to damage the hydrangea itself. Since aphids are not firmly attached to hydrangeas, a simple stream of water knocks them off the leaves. But the places where pests are most concentrated should still be treated with an insecticidal agent.

What to do if worms appear on the roots of hydrangeas

Hydrangea roots can be infested by microscopic worms called root-knot nematodes. Their vital activity leads to the appearance of brown, round swellings on the roots of hydrangea. Such formations are called galls. Is hydrangea rotting? Rest assured, this is a consequence of the activity of worms.

The galls can rot and dry out, causing the roots to die. This will cause the plant to not receive nutrients and simply die. Often these pests attack young hydrangea bushes.

You need to do this throughout the spring and summer. Hydrangeas with signs of root-knot nematode damage cannot be cured; they must be dug up and burned.

Methods of combating the leaf beetle

Leaf beetles are a type of pest that damages all parts of the plant. This insect got its name because of its peculiarity - gnawing entire holes in hydrangea leaves. The leaf beetle larvae eat the entire leaves of the plant, leaving only veins. Stems can also be damaged by this pest, which gnaws them right from the inside. Some leaf beetle larvae live in the soil, where they damage hydrangea roots.

How to deal with hydrangea pests? To combat the leaf beetle, you should resort to complex methods, including:

• Manual collection of both adults and their larvae;
• Trimming damaged parts of the plant and their subsequent burning;
• Digging the soil around the hydrangea at the first frost in order to destroy the wintering larvae;

Treating hydrangea bushes with a variety of insecticidal agents. How to protect hydrangea from slugs

What are the most common hydrangea pests? garden plot? Often in conditions of high humidity and moderate temperatures, hydrangeas are exposed to slugs. Their main places of residence are dense seedlings. By eating leaves, slugs cause great harm to hydrangeas.

Fortunately, hydrangea is not a disease-prone plant, and every gardener should know that most of the diseases of hydrangeas are transmitted through seedlings. Therefore, when purchasing seedlings, you should pay attention to the experience and reliability of nurseries. You also need to be careful when propagating plants by cuttings and be sure that mother plant healthy.

Diseases in hydrangeas most often appear due to too much humidity in the air and excessive plant density.

The main diagnosis of plant damage by chlorosis is yellowing of the leaves. Another equally important cause of hydrangea chlorosis is a lack of nutrients. To solve the problem, there are several options to combat the problem. They will help restore the plant to its former beauty and health.

Plant treatment

Hydrangea chlorosis occurs due to a lack of iron and metabolic disorders. As a result, the plant weakens, the leaves begin to turn yellow and lighten, and the veins remain dark. If no measures are taken, the plant can quickly wither, lose shape, color and beauty. In order to avoid disease, the flower needs to treat chlorosis before it appears. To achieve this, specific preventive measures should be taken.

There are several instructions for preventing and preventing chlorosis in hydrangeas:

• The plant is fertilized with preparations containing iron, according to the instructions for use.
• It is worth paying attention to the water that will be used for irrigation. This should not be tap water as it contains too much chlorine. It is desirable that it be “soft” water, for example rainwater.
• When planting hydrangeas, it is better to choose soil without lime; it provokes yellowing of the hydrangea leaves and the appearance of chlorosis.
• Do not overfeed the plant with humus fertilizer. With moderate quantities, the flower, on the contrary, will grow well.
• Often water does not get into the soil, so the soil must be “light” and moisture-permeable.
• The plant needs an acidic base in both soil and water, so adding a couple of drops can be a good practice. lemon juice into water for irrigation. The pH-7 level is the norm for ordinary water, so using oxidizing agents you need to reduce the value to pH-5.

Hydrangea chlorosis - care and treatment

If the hydrangea is already sick and prevention does not help, iron will help the plant and its recovery. Both healthy and diseased flowers absorb iron best in chelated form. For more fast action Iron chelate should be sprayed on the leaves.
There are several other methods of treating hydrangea:

1. A good effect can be obtained by spraying with Agricole, antichlorosis, micro Fe, Brexil, Ferovit and Ferylene. If the situation is too dire, these funds should be applied at the root.
2. Another way to get rid of hydrangea from chlorosis is to treat it with potassium nitrate and iron sulfate. These drugs should be used in a proportion of 40 g of potassium nitrate (or ferrous sulfate) per 1 liter of water. After several (2-3) waterings with saltpeter, it is recommended to wait 3 days and then water with a solution of ferrous sulfate.
3. The treatment method using rusty nails is also gaining popularity. They are carefully buried in the ground or in a pot along with the plant. The main function is performed by rust, which can also be separated from metal (a nail or any other object) and added to the soil. This method very often it is successful even when other methods do not help.

Iron chelate: homemade preparation

There is no need to buy iron chelate, as you can make it at home with your own hands.
There are two cooking methods:

• Half a teaspoon (4 g) of citric acid is diluted in 1 liter. cold, but definitely boiled water. Then add 2.5-3 g. iron sulfate (teaspoon capacity 6 grams). After this, an orange substance is formed, which contains iron chelate at a concentration of 0.5 g. / 1l. The resulting solution can be used to either water or spray the plant.
• 10 gr. Iron sulfate is diluted in 1 liter. water, then add 20 g to the solution. ascorbic acid. This solution can be sprayed and watered on a diseased plant.

The shelf life of homemade iron chelate is no more than 2 weeks. It is advisable to store it in a cool place.

There are many reasons why a plant can succumb to disease. These are direct hits sun rays(burns), and drafts, and sudden changes in temperature. We should not forget about the lack of many nutrients and fertilizers. If all the rules and instructions are taken into account, the plant will be beautiful and healthy.

Hello, my name is Larisa and I am an amateur florist. In summer, spring and autumn my personal plot turns into a real greenhouse.

My real favorites are hydrangeas. Growing them is a lot of work, and it can be very disappointing when the diseases of these flowers are put to rest. Today I will tell you about them and their treatment in more detail.

All hydrangea diseases are divided into two large categories:

• Fungal and viral;
• Provoked by metabolic disorders of flowers.

Metabolic disorders most often affect the leaves of these beautiful flowers. The following factors are to blame:

• Excessive soil moisture;
• Solar Activity;
• Lack of nutrients;
• Changed soil acidity.

Hydrangeas suffer from mycoses quite rarely. Viruses visit it more often. Common carriers of hydrangea infections are insects, such as spider mites, aphids and root-knot nematodes.

They must be permanently combated with the help of insecticides. Hydrangeas are best suited for:

• Commander;
• Tanrek;
• Akarin.

Metabolism-related diseases

Hydrangea is one of the most demanding flowers and violation of the rules of care immediately affects its leaves.

Falling off

The reason for this leaf disease is simple: lack of minerals and water, especially in hot weather. The fight is quite simple: we feed it three times a month and increase the amount of water.

Dry blackening

It makes itself known in the form of brown spots covering the entire leaf blade. It's simple sunburn, plus hard water. What to do? Water only with settled water and arrange shade over the hydrangea.

Blackening wet

The leaf blade loses its shape and becomes soft, the color becomes brown. Temperature changes, excessive moisture or too heavy soil are to blame. It is necessary to replant the hydrangea or remove the irritant.

Yellowing

The culprit may be insufficiently acidic soil, lack of fertilizers, or excess moisture in the soil. You can determine the acidity of the soil by the color of the hydrangeas.

If the soil is acidic, the flowers will be purple or blue; if the soil is neutral, the flowers will be pink. In the latter case, you can add a little lemon juice (a couple of drops) to the water.

Fungal diseases

Hydrangea “guests” are not frequent, but they also come across them. Spores can “sleep” in the soil for a long time, but when unfavorable conditions arise, they will make themselves known.

Botrytis cinerea

He's gray rot. Hydrangea tissues soften and acquire a watery structure. If the air is dry, the flower tissues dry out. Dents and gray fuzz may appear on them. But most of all, rot “loves” rainy weather and humid air.

When the disease appears, we remove all areas of the plant that are affected. We treat hydrangea with Speed, Pure Flower or Fundazol. Rovral Flo 255 SC is also suitable for garden hydrangeas. We treat it twice and once every 21 days.

Powdery mildew

It develops in the same way as on any other plants. At first the flowers are spotted, either white or yellow-green, then they turn brown. On the leaf plates (their reverse sides) you can see a gray or purple coating.

Typically, infected flowers die in winter, diseased leaves fall off, and shoots (especially young ones) become bent.

On early stage Hydrangea can be treated with Alirin or Fitosporin; if powdery mildew is severe, the already mentioned Pure Flower or Skor, as well as Topaz or Thiovit Jet will do.

Downy mildew

It also develops when the air is too humid. Optimal temperature for the life of the fungus - from 18 to 20 degrees above zero. It makes itself known in the form of oily spots on all parts of the plant. Over time, the spots become darker in color.

To treat the bushes, you should use a mixture consisting of a bucket of water, 150 g of soap and 15 g of copper sulfate.

White rot

Usually it “starts” from the roots of the flower. It is because of this that the hydrangea does not receive the necessary nutrients, turns brown and dies. You can identify it by the white, cotton-like bloom and darkening of the hydrangea.

Septoria

It makes itself known in the form of dark brown spots about half a centimeter in diameter. Over time, diseased leaf blades fall off and the hydrangea may die. All fungicides containing copper are suitable for control.

Rust

The fungus is activated when there is an excess of nitrogen in the soil or if the flowers are planted too densely. To fight, dissolve 40 g of copper oxychloride in a bucket of water. You can also use Ordan, Falcon or Topaz.

Other diseases

The most “popular” hydrangea disease among viral ones is ring spot. Ring-shaped fuzzy spots with a diameter of about 2 cm appear on the leaf plates. Because of this, the leaves lose their shape, wrinkle and fall off. The virus also affects the flower’s ability to form buds.

It cannot be treated, so you just need to destroy the diseased parts of the flower. To prevent this, you need to choose high-quality flowers, fight insects and disinfect gardening tools.

Chlorosis develops when hydrangea either simply does not have enough iron, or it does not absorb it well from the soil.

It makes itself known in the form of lightening and blanching of the leaf plates. They become smaller, the buds become deformed or stop forming altogether.

To combat it, you can treat it with iron-containing Ferovit, Agricol or Antichlorosis. You can also prepare iron supplement yourself:

• Option one. Dilute citric acid (4 grams) and iron sulfate (2 g) in one liter of water. We process the sheet plates.
• Option two. For 10 liters we take calcium nitrate (40 g). Water several times. Next, you need to pour water with iron sulfate (the concentration is similar).

Preventive measures

Prevention is usually more effective than treatment. TO preventive measures relate:

• Treatment of hydrangeas with Bordeaux mixture in spring and autumn;
• Adding insecticides to the soil before planting;
• Constant cleaning of the area and removal of plant debris from it;
• Treatment of planting material with copper sulfate.

Hydrangea diseases are not that dangerous. They can be prevented by simply following the growing rules.