How to move a wall-hung toilet to another wall. How to correctly move the toilet from the riser to the side: step-by-step description of the work

There are many options for moving a toilet to another location. This article will give some recommendations, for example, on how to dismantle the toilet, install it in a new place, etc. There are many circumstances for transfer:

1. Expanding the toilet area. Once the walls are moved, placement of the toilet may become awkward.
2. Replacing an old toilet with a new one. After installing the new device, you may find that it has different dimensions. It is worth considering that the reconstruction of the bathroom allows for the replacement or, in addition, a new installation of the sewer system for a more ergonomic toilet with new dimensions.
3. Purchasing a new washing machine, bathtub or shower stall, installation of which may require moving the toilet and, accordingly, dismantling it from the riser.

How to remove a toilet

The dismantling of the toilet itself is directly related to how it was installed. The easiest dismantling is in those cases when the toilet is installed on standard fasteners, and its connection to the tank is made using a rubber cuff. In other cases, the scope of work may be much wider. Where to begin?

1. Unscrew the fastening. If the toilet is screwed to the floor, it will come in handy wrench or a screwdriver. If it is a wall-mounted toilet, then when removing it, you must be careful not to break it.
2. Pull out the outlet with the sewer. To do this, you need to move the toilet towards you along the axis of the socket. It is not necessary to turn off the water in the tank; the main thing is not to press the button or drain lever out of habit. If the base of the toilet was glued or set on cement, then this is not a problem, but removing it without breaking it will be more difficult.
3. You need to take a screwdriver and carefully remove the putty between the socket and the outlet. This should be done extremely carefully so as not to damage the toilet, as there is a possibility of breaking it.
4. Taking a chisel in your hands, you can, with little effort, begin to drive this tool from all sides under the base of the toilet. Based on whether the toilet wobbles or not, it is possible to find out how the cement under its base was broken. Indeed, there is a risk of breaking the toilet after one or two careless blows.
5. Having loosened the toilet, you need to move it from side to side, using little effort. When finished, you need to remove the outlet from the socket (strictly along the axis).

Installing a toilet in a new location

There is no need to replace the flexible line if the system is working well. If you still need to change it, this is done quite simply. First, you need a sealant for sewer pipes to get a better fastening. Connect the toilet to the riser with corrugation. The advantage of such corrugated pipes is the rubber seals located on both sides. Then we attach the toilet to the floor, preferably with screws. If the floor is not very level, it is possible to make a small layer of adhesive cement screed.

Advice! When installing the toilet on the screws, you should never press them without plastic washers, otherwise you may damage the base of the toilet.

• The pipe socket to which the toilet outlet will be connected must be clean and dry.
• To install a toilet with screws, you need to drill holes in the floor for new fasteners; on tiled floor You need to drill the holes with a larger drill bit.

A pre-purchased sealant is applied to the floor, after which the toilet is installed. In order to correctly make the holes and apply silicone where necessary, place the toilet on the dry floor, outline the contour of its base and mark the holes. After that, holes for screws are drilled along these marks, and silicone is applied along the contour. After this, it is possible to install a toilet, after installation of which a corrugation is put on its outlet. When placing the toilet in a new place, you need to make sure that it is stable.

Relocating the toilet in more complex cases

If the toilet is installed near a dilapidated place, it will be easier to connect the water with a flexible hose. Reworking the drainage system will be useful if, after moving the toilet, you find out that the length of the corrugation is shallow. In some cases, it is necessary to make a tie-in into the sewer riser, especially at a time when the entry needs to be made lower.

To install a new sewer system, a 110 mm plastic pipe is useful. When assembling a system, it is fundamentally important to think about what specific fittings and corners will be useful, and how many of them will be needed.

Mount for sewer pipe clamps will help. In other cases, the sewage system is simply mounted directly on the floor, in the corner between it and the wall. Under such conditions, it will most likely be necessary to remove the outlet to the toilet from the tee to lower the sewer almost to the floor level.

If the riser pipe is made of cast iron, you need to heat it with a burner or blowtorch so that the old pipe can be removed. It goes without saying that with plastic there would be no such troubles, but alas, in dilapidated multi-story buildings, the risers are mostly made of cast iron.

When heating cast iron, you need to take care of a new seal - the old heel will burn out after this procedure is completed. Once the heating is completed, it is possible to remove the pipe from the socket. A fitting is used to insert a plastic tube into a cast iron one. For more reliable fixation, its edge, which will be inserted into the cast iron, is coated with sealant. sealant is no less carefully applied to cast iron pipe.

Advice! When installing a sewer system, you must maintain a slope to the riser from the toilet of 1–2 cm per 1 m.

Before inserting into the socket new pipe, you need to do one unpleasant job - if there is dirt, it needs to be removed. A burner will help with this. You need to be prepared for an unpleasant odor. Indeed, it is worth it - after such cleaning is completed, the sewer will not be clogged for a long time. After making sure that there is ventilation for ventilation and a respiratory protective device - a respirator - is prepared, you can begin cleaning.

To make it easier to fit plastic pipe for release, you need a fitting that will provide a chance to connect to the toilet. Once the connection is complete, you can supply water to the tank and try to flush the toilet. The sewer pipe can be covered with a neat plasterboard box.

If everything works fine, it means that the installation went as expected, and the person who installed the toilet followed all the recommendations from this article exactly.

Creating a comfortable environment is impossible without remodeling the premises, which also affects the toilet in the apartment.

Possible problems when moving the toilet

Increasing the free space of the toilet room encourages thinking and reinstalling the bathroom. Is it possible to move the toilet to the side?

Yes, but for plumbing to function properly, you need to know some subtleties.

1. The likelihood of a blockage increases with distance from the riser, because sewage travels a long way.
2. Water flushing is accompanied unpleasant smell(sewer stench) and gurgling sounds. A high vacuum is formed in a long pipeline, which leads to water being sucked out of appliances (plumbing fixtures located nearby) and their hydraulic valves breaking.

With the right approach to solving the issue, such problems can be avoided. Moving the toilet from the riser- a process that is regulatedcurrent standards (SNiP).

Requirements for the sewer pipeline:

• The use of pipes whose diameter is in the range of 50...100 mm. A cross-section of 100 mm is considered optimal, allowing for the risk of a vacuum or a “plug” of sewage).
• The maximum riser distance is 1.5 m. If the pipe is longer, the power of the drain tank will not be enough to push through. They settle on the walls of the pipeline, and a blockage forms.
• Maintaining the correct slope. For each meter of pipeline it is 2 cm (for a cross-section of 100 mm) or 3 cm (for a cross-section of 50 mm).

With a low angle of inclination of the drain, 100% clogging of the sewer is guaranteed, since the fluid flow rate decreases. If the slope is too high, the flow develops excessive speed, which causes solid particles to accumulate in the pipe. As a result, the movement of water is blocked.

• No right angles when laying a new sewer system. If this condition is not met, installation at an angle of 45° is permitted (two such angles instead of one straight one).

If you install a toilet in an apartment taking into account these simple rules, then the likelihood of a blockage will be minimized (the drains are discharged by gravity).

In practice, to move the toilet you will need to perform a certain sequence of actions:

1. Mark the distance to which the bathroom can be moved. You will need to secure one end of a one and a half meter twine to the riser and draw an arc with chalk (tied to the other end of the rope).
2. Select the most suitable location for the toilet and install it. It is advisable not to leave the maximum removal zone marked on the floor.
3. Measure the height difference between the center of the drain pipe and the floor. Compare the obtained data with the height of the inset point. If it turns out to be higher, you will have to build a podium, with the help of which the drain pipe rises 30 mm above the riser tee (tie-in point).
4. Secure the plumbing to the podium (floor) and connect it to drainage system, ensuring the pipeline is as straight as possible (avoid right angles).

It is not necessary to perform a hard approach cold water to the toilet, it is much easier to use a long flexible hose.

Another situation is possible when it is necessary to move the pipes in the toilet to a distance of more than 1.5 m or compliance with SNiP is a difficult task. What to do?

There are two solutions, the first of which is the relocation of the sewer riser, and the second is the connection of specific equipment (forced sewerage). It would be preferable to install a sololift.

Using a sololift

Installing a sololift is an excellent opportunity to equip a toilet room where gravity sewerage is not available. The principle of operation of the sololift is based on (sinks).

(sololift) are quite powerful devices equipped with special grinders (blades). allows you not only to pump out sewage, but also to grind solid particles, pushing the resulting mass (solid suspension) into the sewer system. usually located inside the cistern or directly behind it.

• forget about all the restrictions regarding the riser and toilet - it is allowed to connect small diameter pipes (18...40 mm), and the long limit moves towards 100m horizontally and 7m vertically;
• performing additional construction work.

However, there are certain criteria for selecting such equipment. So, when planning a parallel washing machine), it is better to focus on models that are able to work in conditions of relatively high temperatures drained water. Otherwise, you can’t count on long-term operation.

For short-term pumping of hot liquids, you can use a device that provides protection for half an hour (no more). But this design option is not designed for long-term operation at elevated temperatures.

If we talk about the technical side of the issue, the installation of a sololift is practically no different from the usual transfer of a toilet. The difference is that a longer sewer pipe is laid at a slope. The requirements for installing the grinder pump are specified in the instructions (attached to the device) and must be strictly followed.

WATCH THE VIDEO

The unit is also unpretentious to maintenance. It only needs periodic cleaning, for which it is designed special liquids, removing deposits from the walls.

The only drawback is energy dependence (functioning when the electrical power is turned off is impossible).

You will need

• - 45 degree toilet outlet;
• - bell;
• - fan pipe;
• - corner bends;
• - fastening elements;
• - silicone sealant.

Instructions

Remove from the room all unnecessary objects, furniture, and plumbing fixtures that may interfere with work. Assemble together the elements of the supply elbow - these are two 90' corner bends made of polyvinyl chloride with a diameter of 110 mm, a 45' toilet bend with a seal for the outlet, a section of a waste pipe with a socket, the diameter of which is 110 mm. It can be used as an extension for the transition elbow, which makes it possible to move the toilet more freely. This process is not easy - you need to achieve the tightest possible connection of the pipes.

Once the fitting is complete, make marks on the bends using felt-tip pens or a simple pencil at the junction lines. This will make it easier to assemble the structure later. Now disassemble the knee and treat the rubber cuffs that are included in the joints with silicone grease. Install them in their original place, and then reassemble the outlet structure. Connect its outlet to the outlet of the toilet, and connect the opposite end to the waste pipe that is part of the riser structure.

After completing these steps, proceed to adjust the outlet height. Make sure that the structure has a uniform slope from the toilet to the riser with an angle of more than two degrees. There are holes in the toilet pedestal - through them, use a marker to mark the points at which the toilet will be fixed after the final transfer to a new location.

Reinstall the cistern. Make sure that it does not rest against the wall. In the marks made on the floor, drill holes into which the dowels will need to be inserted. This way the toilet will be secured in place. This completes the work on reinstalling the toilet - all that remains is to bring other furnishings into the room.

Video on the topic

note

Prepare everything necessary tools and materials in advance. Work on moving the toilet should be carried out as soon as possible - the smell is far from pleasant. There is nothing good if work is delayed due to running around the shops in search of the right part,

Helpful advice

To fit the structure as best as possible, remove the rubber sealing gaskets from both the corner elbows and the sockets. It is advisable to ensure that the end of the elbow coincides exactly with the outlet of the toilet being installed in the new location. The same should be done with the connection to the fan pipe. This is best achieved by pulling out and pushing in the connecting elements. When performing such actions, the required length of the straight section is selected.

In apartments standard type The bathroom most often has the most limited territory, which is why the owners have to use every free space as painstakingly as possible. As a result, very often there is a desire to move the toilet to another corner or turn it around. This event is responsible and difficult. In order to carry out the work, you can turn to specialists, or you can do it on your own, the main thing is to figure out how to do the job correctly.

If the toilet needs to be moved to a distance that does not exceed 20 cm, then the work will not be difficult. The placement of the equipment can be any. The main thing to know minimum distance not only in relation to pipes or walls, but also for the sink. To move the toilet to the left or right, you must first remove its connection from the elbows and the water supply. You should start by removing the old device. If the old toilet was installed with cement or special glue, then you will have to tinker with the removal. If you do even one wrong action, the toilet may break. Of course, if you plan to install a new device, then there is no need to be careful, but if this is not the case, then you need to turn off the water and carefully carry out dismantling.

It consists of 3 steps:

1. We eliminate it by placing putty in the space between the sewer pipe and the toilet outlet. In order to carry out this work, you can use a thin chisel or a flat-head screwdriver.
2. We carefully begin to loosen the toilet. Here it would be appropriate to use a wide chisel, which needs to be hammered into different places. This action must be repeated until the device begins to swing thoroughly.
3. We are trying to lift the device. To do this, carefully pull it towards you and remove the release along the axis. Experts say that if the device does not give in, then you cannot use force; try to swing it even more and only then pull.

A toilet that was installed with standard fasteners and connected to the sewer with a rubber cuff will be much easier to remove. To remove it, you will need to remove the screws, which are the main fastening. After this, pull the device towards you and remove its outlet.

If you want the device to be in working order after removal, all manipulations must be carried out very carefully.

Also be extremely careful when removing the sealing putty. After all the dismantling work has been carried out, you can begin preparing to install the toilet in a new location. Carefully inspect the flexible hose; if it is not long enough or it is leaking, you need to replace it with a new one. If you are satisfied with everything, we leave it in its old place. You can find out how the toilet looks in the corner, how to move it diagonally, lift it and place it on the podium in the photo; one day is enough for training.

What to do if there is an unpleasant smell in the apartment? Some advice for those who want to get rid of it:

We answer the question: how to raise the toilet higher above the floor

When it comes to bathroom renovations, many are faced with the problem of changing the level of the outlet and pipes for connecting plumbing. This mainly happens because the floor level changes and the plumbing is rearranged. In any case, the task arises of raising the toilet higher.

In order to cope with the problem of mismatched fittings, it is enough to purchase new adapters. If you have a problem with the mismatch of the pipeline axes, then it is better to use flexible hoses or organize new gaskets for the pipes. The coincidence of these holes determines at what level from the floor your toilet will be located.

First you need to choose a place for installation and install the device on wooden beams in order to organize new level.

Make sure that the horizontal position is maintained and that all axes and the drain pipe are aligned.

After this, remove the fixtures and measure the thickness of the pads that you installed to create a new level for the plumbing.

To replace the toilet lid so that the fasteners match. You will learn how to choose and install it correctly if you read our material:

In order to have an idea of ​​how to do the above, you must think through all the subtleties of the base in advance. You can use wood, but it won't be the best the best option, since wood rots under the influence of condensation. It would be best to use concrete screed. In this case, screws and dowels will be needed for fastening. On this moment Fastening the device to the base with glue is widespread.

Is it possible to increase the distance from the toilet to the riser?

In order to expand the available space in toilet room Many people decide to take such a step as moving the toilet from one side to the other. Moving the device to another corner is possible, but in order for it to continue to function fully, you need to know some points.

As for the pipeline, certain requirements are also put forward for it, which must immediately be taken into account.

For example:

• You can use pipes with a diameter from 50 to 100 mm, the most optimal are pipes with a cross-section of 100 mm;
• The distance from the device to the riser should be a maximum of 1.5 m; if the length is longer, then the drain power from the barrel will not be enough to push through the waste and a blockage will appear;
• Observe the correct slope, it depends on the cross-section of the pipe.

If the slope is too low, there is a high probability of clogging as the fluid flow is reduced. If, on the contrary, the slope is too high, then the flow rate will be excessive and solid parts will collect in the pipe, which will subsequently block the movement of water. How to move the toilet close to the wall, what maximum distance should be from the wall and how far the toilet can be from the drain, you can find out from the training video.

The installation of a toilet in an apartment must be carried out efficiently. Full algorithm of actions and advice from professionals on the next page:

Changing the situation: how to rotate the toilet 90 degrees

Sometimes situations arise when you want to completely change the design of the bathroom and purchase a new toilet; in this case, you can rotate the toilet 90 degrees. The work is very simple, the main thing is to know a few technical nuances, rules and subtleties.

To carry out the rearrangement, it is not at all necessary to digest the pipes.

IN Lately The use of corner bends and corrugated pipes has become popular.

Corrugated pipes are best suited for deploying a toilet in an already installed place. If you not only unfold the device, but also move it to another place, then it is more advisable to use pipes of the required diameter, which are made of plastic. Using such methods, you can easily not only unfold, but also move the toilet to the desired location. But make sure that the corrugation is not subjected to excessive stretching, as this can lead to rupture. This method will help not only to turn the device around, but also to move it in another direction, for example, closer to the sink, or move it as much as necessary.

How to move the toilet to another place (video)

As you can see from this article, moving a toilet is not such a difficult task, of course, if you are confident in your skills. If you are planning to do this for the first time, and are not aware of all the intricacies, then it is better to contact specialists who will not only carefully carry out the installation, but also organize careful dismantling, so old device will not be damaged and will last for a long time.

In brick and panel houses old building, i.e. “Khrushchev”, combined bathrooms, where in the corner there is a sewer riser, which occupies part of the room, and the toilet is directly opposite the door in front of the riser. And put it in such a bathroom washing machine, even a standard one, is simply unrealistic - at least hang it from the ceiling. However, there is a way out in this situation - move the toilet.
You need to place it at an angle of 45° to the axis of the room, thereby saving space.

Is it possible to cope with this task on your own?

Moving the toilet to another place in the bathroom is within the capabilities of every man who can hold a tool in his hands. You just need to immediately think about what the bathroom will look like after rearranging the toilet. The floor under the standing toilet is not tiled, unlike the rest of the bathroom.

Therefore, it is better to do the rearrangement simultaneously with the renovation of the bathroom.
Having decided to rearrange the toilet, you will immediately decide to replace it with a new, more modern one. After all, after so many years of use, the “sanitary device” has lost its whiteness and aesthetic appearance. You can now choose a toilet without any problems, their range is huge and appearance and in quality.

Just don’t buy a toilet with a corner cistern; this model is not suitable for a combined bathroom and you won’t be able to make the plumbing outlined below. They are designed for installation in the corner of the bathroom and the outlet will rest against the wall. It’s better to take a standard medium size, but the toilet itself can be whatever suits your needs.
But before you start trashing everything, prepare the materials you will need for the job.

To do this you need:

1. A section of a drain pipe with a socket (diameter 110 mm) so that you can lengthen the transition elbow and place the toilet closer to the corner.
2.Two 90° corner elbows (diameter 110 mm) made of PVC.
3. One outlet for the toilet with a seal for an outlet at 45°.

You still can’t do without a toilet during the renovation, since the process is not quick. There is no spare toilet in your apartment, so do not forget to purchase a corrugated flexible liner the required length. It is necessary to disconnect the toilet from the water supply and from the fastenings in the floor. Move the toilet from the installation site so that you can freely do the work, and connect it using corrugation to fan pipe. This way the toilet can be used temporarily.

It is necessary to assemble a supply elbow from the purchased parts. To make it easier to adjust the knee to size, it is better to remove the rubber sealing cuffs. By extending and retracting the outlet, it is necessary to achieve the desired length. Only if the length of the entire structure exactly matches will it allow the elbow with the toilet outlet to enter the drain pipe.

Having adjusted the bends, you need to make marks with a marker at the places of their connections in order to make it faster later final assembly toilet.
Now we disassemble this structure, lubricate the rubber cuffs, then we need to install them in place, and put everything back together again. Now we connect the assembled structure with the outlet to the outlet of the toilet, and connect the other end to the drain pipe of the riser.

Don’t forget to adjust the height of the outlet structure; a uniform tilt of the structure is needed at least 2-4°.
Through the holes in the toilet pedestal we mark the places where the toilet is attached to the floor. We install the flush tank so that its edges do not rest against the wall. We drill holes at the marked points in the floor and secure the toilet with dowels in a new place.

Now the bathroom can easily accommodate a decent one, which will not disturb anyone. And moving the toilet to a more convenient place is not difficult, if only you would like to!