How to make your own drywall lift for installation work. Homemade lift for installing drywall Homemade lever lift for drywall

Hello everybody! If you have encountered such a problem as installing plasterboard sheets on the ceiling, and since this procedure is very difficult without an assistant, then you may be interested in this topic. So I had to solve this problem. The solution is quite simple - a homemade plasterboard sheet lifter. This lift is easy to manufacture, easily disassembled for transportation, and weighs less than 20 kg. This homemade product can be made by almost anyone with a minimum of tools and available materials.

For production you will need:
Welding machine
Bulgarian
Drill or screwdriver
Drill
Keys
Hand tool
Sandpaper
Paint, brush
Profile pipe (20*20, 20*40, 25*50)
Window lift drive for VAZ “classic”
Bolts and nuts - M10 and M6
Furniture wheels
Steel wire 4 mm
A piece of half-inch pipe and a steel rod along the inner diameter of the pipe
Sheet iron 2 mm

At the initial stage, the question arose of what to make the lifting mechanism from. There are many options on the Internet with various winches, ratchet mechanisms, etc. but they are all bulky and difficult to implement or expensive.

Quite by chance, a mechanism from a manual window lifter of a domestic VAZ “classic” car was at hand. This mechanism is compact, inexpensive and, most importantly, has automatic locking, namely, if you do not rotate the gear handle, the shaft with the cable remains locked, and when rotated in any direction, the locking is turned off - this is just what you need. But a little modification was still required. The essence of the modification is that the standard mounting bolts are very short and unreliable.

For the modification, it was necessary to drill out two fasteners and install bolts with a diameter of 6 mm of the required length and secure them with nuts to maintain the integrity of the mechanism body.

Next, I cut out a plate from sheet iron to mount the lifting mechanism. The dimensions of the plate are approximately 11 by 8 cm and at least 2 mm thick.

I drilled two holes for the mount and connected the plate to the gearbox using two nuts.
As you can see in the photo, the cutout made in the center serves to fit the plate more tightly to the mechanism.

Next, I took a 50*25*1.5 mm profile pipe, 155 cm long, which will serve as the main rack of the lift. Having stepped back 25 cm from the edge of the rack, I fixed the lifting mechanism with the mounting plate by welding.

I decided to make the stand with removable and reach-adjustable spacers. To do this, I cut four 11 cm long sections from a 50*25 profile pipe.

I drilled two holes with a diameter of 11 mm in each segment on one narrow side, departing from the edges by about 2 cm.

Installed 10 mm bolts with nuts in drilled holes, for centering and welded the nuts to the profile. At this stage I want to make an amendment - in this case, one hole with a nut on each section of the profile will be sufficient. This was confirmed in practice after complete assembly lift

I welded two parallel guides for longer racks to the bottom of the rack, and welded the remaining two sections of pipe perpendicularly above these guides. All this does not look aesthetically pleasing, to put it mildly, but it makes it possible to adjust the reach of each strut individually.

The spacers themselves were made from a 20*40*1.5 mm profile pipe. Spacers that will be located along the width of the sheet are enough sections of a profile pipe of 50 cm, in my case 60 cm. For spacers along the length of the sheet, a length of pipes of 70 cm is enough, I have 90 cm. Since the lift was made without any drawings or calculations and in this case, more is better than less, and it is easier to make a short one from a long pipe than vice versa.

Since the guides for the spacers are on different levels, for alignment, I welded sections of pipes of the appropriate height to the upper level spacers.

To make it easier to position the plasterboard sheets, the lift was equipped with furniture wheels, which were screwed into nuts welded at the ends of the spacers into pre-drilled holes.

Further, for the operation of the retractable, telescopic mechanism, a rotating fulcrum was also required. This support consists of a roller for the cable from the window lift mechanism, a tens of bolts with a short thread of nuts and a mounting plate with a thickness of at least 2 mm. All this comes together as in the photo. During assembly, I lubricated the bolt and the inner hole of the roller with automotive grease (lithol).

In the upper part of the rack I cut out a small groove into which a roller with a cable for lifting the inner pipe should partially fit. The inner pipe 20*40 has a length of 170 cm.

The plate is fastened to the roller by welding, but first you must install the inner pipe, which should not come into contact with the roller, and the gap between them should be minimal. This will reduce the play between the pipes.

In the inner tube, stepping back 35 cm from the bottom edge (the indent serves to prevent the inner tube from completely flying out when lifting), I drilled a hole with a diameter of 5mm for the cable. I threaded the cable from the window regulator through the hole into the inside of the pipe, made a loop at the end of the cable and additionally clamped it with a bolt so that the cable could not be pulled out back through the hole.

The retractable rack is ready.

This required three sections of a half-inch pipe, 7 cm each, and a 25 cm steel rod of suitable diameter, which fits snugly inside the pipe sections. Two plates for the gap between the parts, a piece of profile pipe 25*50 that will be put on the retractable rack and the main profile pipe 25*50 80 cm long for the holder of the drywall sheet. The assembly process can be seen from the photo.

I divided the main pipe with jumpers at the ends and, stepping back 20 cm from the edges of the pipe, drilled a hole in the center, installed sections of nails inside the pipe and fixed them by welding. This is done to eliminate the backlash of two internal pipes 20*20 80cm long, which will move inside. To fix the internal profiles on the outer pipe, I welded nuts onto pre-drilled holes at the edges, as I described earlier. Similarly, I separated it with jumpers and welded the nuts to two 10 cm long sections of 25*50 profile pipe. Pipes 20*20 55 cm long will be fixed inside these profiles; all connections are independently adjustable.

After assembly is completed profile pipes I cleaned it with sandpaper and painted it with a metal primer.

When assembled it turned out as in the photo.

When covering walls, and especially ceilings, with plasterboard, the difficulty is lifting and holding fragments of the material at a height, since its sheets weigh from 7 to 9.5 kg. For this you need a special mechanism - a drywall lift. To purchase a ready-made device, you need to know how to choose it, since making it yourself is only possible with certain skills.

Drywall lift: main functions

The main task of the device is to facilitate the work of the master when covering the ceiling large sheets GKL. With it, he can cope with the work process alone, without an assistant, even if he needs to build a multi-level plasterboard ceiling. Considering that the lift lifts the covering sheets to a height of up to 4.5 meters, this is quite enough for medium and high rooms.

The structure consists of a rack placed on supports, a special rod extends from it to the desired height. At the top there is a fixed winch unit (automatic or mechanical). In order to put plasterboard sheets edge, on the sliding part there is a rotating frame with clamps. The principle of operation in most cases is based on cable transmission.

However, this is not the only purpose - homemade mechanism can help with other important work:

installing on it laser level, there is the possibility of accurate, high-quality marking of the ceiling and corners;
the lift is used to lift air conditioners, ventilation ducts, heavy chandeliers;
The device helps when installing a frame made of metal profiles under gypsum boards in hard-to-reach places - it reliably fixes the parts while they are being secured.

In addition, using a lift, you can lift rolled coverings up and attach a hammer drill to it, which is extremely convenient when working at heights.

Thereby simple device it is possible to easily fix the material without much difficulty, and installation time is also significantly saved.

Types of devices

The specific use depends on the type of structure.

There are three main types:

A lift with a vertically mounted stand, designed for the assembly of wall coverings and partition cladding.
Ceiling mechanism with a vertical table for fixing drywall to the ceiling.
Universal design "Premos". It allows you to assemble drywall for both walls and ceilings alone. If necessary, you can change the angle of inclination using a rotary table.

The factory mechanism has the following advantages:

With simple controls one person can handle it;
the structure is not exposed to dust and pollution;
lifts gypsum board slabs at different angles, vertically and horizontally;
the mechanism is prefabricated, has light weight, in a compact form it is easy to transport.

If cladding is required small room, the device folds, thereby reducing the supporting area. At the same time, the supports are adjustable, so it can be used on uneven floors.

In some cases, a spacer lift is used. It is a structure consisting of two telescopic pipes, a lifting rod, as well as a clamp and stops made of rubberized polymer. To disable the rod fixation, the equipment is equipped with a lever. The spacer allows you to hold plasterboards vertically. The advantages of the structure include low weight, a movable base, and the ability to work with walls and ceilings.

The area of use of the usual design is living rooms, production workshops, balconies and corridors. It is recommended to use this model for ceiling heights of more than 3 meters.

How to choose?

When choosing the right equipment, it always makes sense to familiarize yourself with the capabilities of the equipment.

The following criteria come first:

the weight with which the mechanism operates can range from 30 to 50 kg;
Considering the size of the ceilings, you should ask at what height the plasterboard sheets are delivered.

You need to know that such devices only work for lifting and cannot move loads.

The strength and solidity of the structure itself are important:

details internal mechanism and components must be made of durable and durable materials, therefore it is always better to choose models made of steel without polymer additions;
a reliable base configuration is a guarantee of the stability of the lift; in this regard, the most worthy stand is considered to be in the shape of the letter “H”.

Inexpensive models that lift drywall above 4 meters may be quite suitable for ordinary housing. If it is necessary to fix the coating in hard-to-reach areas, different directions of fastenings are provided, and the best option there will be a lift-strut. He has more complex design and thanks to this it can be configured for diverse tasks. True, such functional models are much more expensive than standard ones.

In addition, you need to take into account auxiliary options that are not always needed when installing gypsum boards. But if they are available, the price of the device increases significantly.

Since there are manual and electric models, choosing electric equipment makes sense when large volumes work. It helps increase assembly speed, but is more expensive. According to professionals, for irregular construction work It is better to choose manual structures, especially since they do not fail so often.

Self-production

On average, standard lifting equipment costs about 15 thousand rubles, and many people prefer to assemble the device with their own hands. However, this will require detailed drawings, on the basis of which it is realistic to mount any type of lift at home. Also, in addition to metal profiles, you will have to purchase a winch and fasteners.

Professionals advise making a one-time option, which can later be easily adapted for other rooms. On the other hand, you can make a reusable design yourself, which will be suitable for different heights premises.

A carefully drawn up scheme is the key high-quality assembly lift, because it is on it that you will have to mount supports from metal profiles and other work.

Installation process:

The bases are made of a metal profile measuring 6x6 cm. A pair of segments are equipped with support-turning parts, the third profile is fixed to the rack using welding machine. For ease of movement, the structure is equipped with rollers or wheels.
For greater stability, three or four pipes are welded in the form of sawn-off legs.
A telescopic tripod or tripod is made of three cut profiles with cross-sectional dimensions of 0.4, 0.6, 0.8 cm. To insert the stoppers, perforations are made into them, which must match. The bar is secured to the rack.
The upper part of the tripod is equipped with clamps for quickly attaching the stand. A metal “H” shaped frame is welded to the top of the tripod for further mounting of the retractable device.
The table is placed on a platform; additionally, side supports are mounted to increase the rigidity of the structure. Lastly, the winch, blocks and cables are attached.

Working with drywall shows good results during the implementation of almost every project, and often we do it without an assistant. This means that you need special tools and accessories for drywall, which will help do the work even better and greatly simplify the processing of immense sheets.

auxiliary tool

Today we will look at special devices for installing and processing drywall sheets.

Lift

When the ceiling is finished, it is very difficult for the master to cope with the work. Lifting fragile and bulky sheets to the ceiling and keeping them up is not an easy task.

Drywall spacer lift - a reliable station for lifting and holding gypsum plaster boards, and others finishing materials, which is used when working with ceilings, bookmarks ventilation ducts and even decorative finishing ceilings. The device for lifting drywall can be made of aluminum or steel, is easy to disassemble and assemble, and is convenient to use and transport. A plasterboard lift with a height of 1.4 - 1.6 m can withstand the weight of material up to 60 kg, and a device with a height of 3.5 - 4.5 m can support 30-40 kg. Often, such lifts are additionally equipped with holders and clamps.

Essentially, a drywall spacer lift can be called a type of jack that is capable of lifting huge sheets of paper to the ceiling. These modern devices allow you to independently, without assistants, install ceiling structures at a height of up to 4.5 m.

Premos

The Premos lift is a modern device for installing plasterboard on the ceiling. The device greatly facilitates the process of installing sheets, so for many it has already become indispensable.

Premos - lift is designed for lifting sheets to the ceiling with subsequent fixation in a horizontal position during ceiling works with drywall.

Advantages of the tool:

The device allows you to install and fix a sheet of drywall in any position;
Moving sheets of drywall from one place to another is not a problem with the Premos device;
In addition to working with drywall, the device can be used when installing air conditioners, fixing massive chandeliers, installing ventilation, and fastening large equipment.

The lifting height of the Premos device is from 3.2 to 4.2 m, the load capacity reaches 100 kg at total weight designs 23 kg. The device is convenient both during transportation and during operation.

Angled attachments for power tools

Often when working with plasterboard, especially if it is associated with fairly complex geometric shapes And multi-level ceilings, attachments for screwdrivers and drills are used. They are conveniently located on electric instrument, can be fixed in several positions, rotate around its axis.

Shape cutting device

Professionals also have in their arsenal a special cutter for gypsum plasterboard - a ballerina, with which you can easily make large, regular-shaped holes - from 15 to 35 cm. The tool is easy to work with and even a beginner can handle it, the main thing is that such a thing is in your tool kit .

If we talk about small holes, say, from 2 to 13 cm in diameter, which are most in demand when working with plasterboard, then it is better to use a set of hole saws for drywall. These are special attachments for drills that are used in working with ceilings and niches, for installing lighting or laying some communications.

For installation

When screwing a sheet of drywall to a wall or ceiling, you can damage the material if you do not take into account the depth of immersion of the screw. Professionals recommend using a special attachment for drills and screwdrivers, which will help with covering the frame with plasterboard. This is a bit with a limiter that will prevent the material from being damaged while wrapping screws into a sheet.

For carrying

Quite often we work alone, and moving a sheet of drywall from one room to another can be too difficult. To make it easier to carry gypsum boards, holder handles for drywall were invented, which allow you to conveniently lift the sheet and, holding it, move it where necessary.

To lift

To carefully lift drywall from the floor or simply change its position slightly when you apply the sheet to the ceiling or wall, you can use a foot counterweight - a drywall pedal, on one side of which a sheet of drywall is installed, and the other acts as a lever.

DIY lift

This device can be made with your own hands. The drywall lift consists of four mechanisms that are assembled separately, combining at the final stage into a single device.

Construction drawings should include the following elements:

Tripod. To the device for telescopic tripod 3 - 4 legs are welded for stability. For ease of use, it is better to equip the legs with wheels with stoppers.
Telescopic tripod made from three sections of profile pipe with a cross section of 80.60 and 40 mm. The segments are inserted one into another like a “Matryoshka”, with plugs placed on one side. At the end of the thinnest pipe, a mount is made for the turning plane.
Rotary table. First, an H-shaped frame with a through jumper in the middle is welded. Retractable T-shaped supports are inserted into the frame opening on both sides to hold the bulky sheet of fragile material.
Winch. It is easier to purchase this element than to make it yourself. An outrigger beam with a brace is used as fastening for it.

Devices for transferring and fastening drywall, shaped cutting and faster installation are constantly being developed and modernized, and therefore be sure to keep an eye on new products on the market.

At one time, dry plaster made from a layer of gypsum between two cardboard sheets was not in high demand, but over time the popularity of this material increased, and various devices for it appeared, including drywall lift. Of course, a large team engaged in the installation of suspended ceilings and the construction of partitions from such a convenient and relatively light material, in lifting mechanism does not need. But for working alone, it’s just right.

How does a drywall lift work?

Installing profiles on walls and ceilings does not pose any particular difficulties either for the group performing this work or for the person forced to work independently. And if one person can still fix plasterboard sheets on the wall, then lifting them to the ceiling and fixing them there seems to be a difficult task. In such cases, special prefabricated lifts come to the rescue, which come in two types - mechanical, that is, lever driven manually, or electric, with a motor. When assembled, they usually have dimensions of no more than 0.2x0.2x1.5 meters, but their weight varies from 20 to 40 kilograms.

The design of such a device is extremely simple; it consists of a rack on several supports and a rod extending from it to a height of 4.5 meters. Either a mechanical or automatic winch unit is fixed in the upper part of the rack; a special rotating frame is installed on the retractable rod, which allows you to place the sheet edgewise on special clamps. It can have the shape of a rectangle or consist of a long rod with two short crossbars, on which clamps are installed on one side. The latter have an upper position, in which they provide a completely reliable support for the sheet, and a lower position, in which they are retracted when the frame is turned to the working horizontal position.

The operation of the device is based, as a rule, on a cable transmission, that is, if you make a drywall lift with your own hands, you can use the most ordinary winch. Another transmission option is a worm gear; such a mechanism is not difficult to make, and at the same time there is no need to supplement the design with a safety system against cable breakage, in the absence of one. In most cases, the frame has two planes of rotation - horizontal (on the axis of the rack) and vertical (around its own axis at an angle of 90 degrees), that is, there must be at least two hinges with screw stops.

The site’s site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate the required amount of drywall.

Marking the ceiling and fastening profiles using a lift

When installation suspended ceiling This is done in splendid isolation; the difficulties are caused not only by the drywall, which somehow needs to be pulled up several meters, but also by the markings for the profiles. Why, installing the guides themselves is also very labor-intensive. The lift completely replaces an additional pair of hands, although it cannot play the role of a full-fledged assistant. In particular, The laser level can be easily attached to the frame using clamps or a magnet provided on the device. It is unlikely that anyone has the ability to constantly direct a laser beam strictly in one plane while standing under the ceiling. The lift does not need rest.

Having installed the device on the edge of the room, all that remains is to move the trestles or stepladder from place to place, and fasten the profiles with brackets to the ceiling so that they are all equally illuminated by the laser along the lower plane. Or, if markings are made and the hangers are fixed level, you can safely remove it and use the lift as a support for the profiles; the frame will hold them at the desired height exactly as long as you need. Having laid two rows of profiles on the device at once and raised them to the ceiling, without much effort we attach them to the hangers, inserting the ends into the guides. Then we lower the bar down to its original position and move (or roll if there are wheels) the mechanism to a new location.

Installing drywall using a lift

Leveling a ceiling with plaster usually takes a lot of time, requires a fair amount of skill, and very often the result is far from perfect. It is much easier to achieve your plan by doing drywall installation. However, it is quite difficult to cope with the task alone for the simple reason that one sheet of this material weighs no less than 30 kilograms. It is easier to lift such a weight to the ceiling with two people, but when there is no partner, a lift will replace him. To do this, expand the rack supports, install the frame in vertical position and place the sheet on the clamps.

Under no circumstances should the hoist be used as an elevator to lift a stack of profiles from a stack of sheets onto trestles, since the device may simply not withstand the load (cable breakage is especially dangerous).

Raising a thirty-kilogram sheet a meter in height is much easier than dragging it onto a trestle or stepladder and then trying to press it to the ceiling. We move the frame to a horizontal position, remove the clamps down, we won’t need them anymore, but they can rest against the profiles. Now we grab the lever or steering wheel of the winch and smoothly push the rod towards the ceiling. At the highest point, the frame sways a little from side to side, but this will not prevent you from tightly attaching a sheet of drywall to the profiles. All that remains is to climb the stepladder and firmly fix the covering with screws.

Device for carrying drywall alone

A little earlier we mentioned the moment when it is necessary to install a heavy sheet of drywall onto the lift frame, without outside help. It is precisely for such cases that a special handle with a lock was invented, holding which in your hand you can easily pick up a sheet of any thickness and lift it without straining your lower back and back. The fact is that usually, when you place a sheet on its edge, you have to bend very low to put your fingers under the edge and jerk the material up. A drywall carrier allows you to do the same thing without bending over as much.

It’s not difficult to figure out how to use such a device. So, it is a strong frame with a handle at the top and a curved grip at the bottom. We need to move the sheet a considerable distance, but there is no one to wait for help. We stand with our right shoulder to the material placed on its edge, under the center of which the grip of the device has already been slipped. With our left hand we grab the top edge of the sheet, with our right hand we grab the handle, bending slightly and bending our legs. It is much easier to lift drywall from this position.

By the way, there is another problem. Again, it was said above that under a sheet placed on its edge you need to slip a device for carrying it. Consequently, it is still necessary to raise the material to a certain height, experiencing a certain load, which is not always feasible for the joints and muscles? Nothing happened. It is enough just to push from the side in one of the upper corners to create a small gap under the sheet and drive a foot counterweight into it, in the form of a pedal with a certain fulcrum, at the end of which there is a protrusion into which the drywall rests. This is another device that allows you to lift material to a height of up to 3 centimeters without applying absolutely any effort.

Drywall is one of the most popular materials for covering ceilings and walls. But at the same time, it is also one of the most inconvenient in single installation. Every master knows that it is extremely difficult to attach hanging sheets on your own, without the help of 1-2 helpers, due to the significant weight of the material, which when using solid panels ranges from 18 to 35 kg (depending on the type of gypsum board) and its extensive surface.

Therefore, in such situations, it is best to use a drywall lift.

What is this article about?

Why do you need a lift?

This device is designed for comfortable transportation of gypsum board panels to a specific installation point, lifting them and fixing them to the frame or directly to the plane of the ceiling and/or wall. The installer can only fasten the sheet with self-tapping screws, without applying significant effort to do this, that is, without holding the sheet and without inviting assistants.

In general, a drywall lift helps:

In covering frames with sheets of large dimensions;
When equipped with a level, it is possible to install panels without additional control;
In giving and supporting others building materials To hard to reach places, in particular, frame elements.

Types of lifts

Its practical application depends on the type of design.

This is how they distinguish:

Wall lift with a vertical table for installing sheets on walls or partitions;
Ceiling with a vertical stand, for working on ceiling cladding;
Universal - with turntable to adapt to installation on different planes.

Where is it used?

The standard device can be used in different rooms:

In an ordinary room;
On the balconies;
In narrow corridors;
At large commercial, public or industrial facilities.

Where to get a lift

Getting a drywall lift is easy. It can be:

Buy - what is beneficial for professional craftsmen finishers who regularly carry out such work at sites;
Rent - for those who do a one-time ceiling on a small area;
Do it yourself - again, this is suitable for master finishers or those owners who decided to twist the gypsum board themselves on a surface with a significant area.

How to choose a mechanism

When choosing a device for carrying and installing material in a store, you should take into account some features and capabilities of the units.

Lifting weight - which for regular installation should be at least 30-50 kg;
The lifting height is at least 4-5 meters, which, as a rule, is sufficient for installation in ordinary houses and apartments, where the ceiling height rarely reaches even these parameters;
Material of manufacture - it is advisable to ignore models with unreliable plastic elements;
The shape of the lifting base platform - it is preferable that it be N-shaped, since such bases are considered the most stable;
Dual-functional lifting on both horizontal and vertical planes - if the master considers this factor necessary. You can only buy a car with a top lift;
Possibility of convenient transportation of the model. Most units are equipped with rollers for easy movement, as well as a collapsible design;
Control - can be carried out by jacking manually or by electric drive. Here, the choice again depends on the working area and the regularity of installation.

In the market of construction/finishing materials and tools, a lift for installing drywall is not uncommon. It can be purchased at almost any specialty store. Making a choice in favor of a particular brand is very simple. After all, all branded models are exclusive and focused on the specific needs of installers.

The most popular devices from:

Knauf Corporation. Among those sold out, a lift for plasterboard panels- "Plattenheber". The device allows you to secure sheets in both horizontal and vertical positions;
Premos Company. If you choose a professional drywall lift, you should pay attention to this brand. The company’s models deliver material to a height of up to 4.5 meters, and also cope well with loads of up to 100 kg, allowing you to work not only with gypsum boards, but also with heavier panels;
"Edma" are multifunctional models with all their mobility. So the gypsum board lift from this French brand is comfortable to use even in cramped conditions.

DIY lift

If the purchase is impractical for some reason, you can make a lift yourself. There are all the necessary drawings for this on the Internet.

You also need to know the basic elements that make up this device:

A tripod is the base on which the entire structure rests. Often equipped with caster wheels with locking components;
Telescopic type tripod - made from sections of profile pipe inserted into each other. Recommended sections - 8, 6, 4 cm;
Rotary table stand. Mounted on an H-shaped base;
The winch is an external beam, purchased separately, since assembling it yourself is problematic;
As additional components, a mounting platform and an electric drive can be installed on the mechanism.

When making a device yourself, you need to carefully consider its design and diagram it on a sheet of paper.

A simple assembly step consists of several installation steps:

To manufacture a tripod element, it is necessary to create a base from a 6x6 cm profile pipe. The tripod consists of 3 elements, one of them must be welded, and the other two must have rotating mechanism, they are mounted to the central rack element. All 3 legs of the tripod are equipped with strong roller wheels;
Then, you need to weld the legs with braces sawn off with a grinder to the base. If desired, they can be made folding or even removable;
The tripod is ready, you can start creating a retractable tripod;
To do this, you need to cut profile pipes - 8x8 cm, 6x6 cm, 4x4 cm. They are inserted into each other, padded in the form of plug elements. Such an element can be square or round. The telescopic pipe is installed on the central post;
A mount for a stand is mounted at the end of the upper tube. It can also be of a removable type;
Next, the table itself is made. For it, you initially need to create an N-shaped platform. Its middle lintel should be of a through type, for retractable supports necessary for volumetric, rigid support of sheets;
The supports are welded into the shape of the letter “T” and secured using quick-clamping mechanisms;
At the final stage, it is necessary to secure the winch tightly. As a rule, the mount is an outrigger beam with braces.

Mini lift

You don’t always want or have the time to tinker with making a capital lift, so you can also make a mini-fixture.

It is made from flat timber with dimensions of 40×20 cm, the height varies according to needs. The width must be at least 90 cm.

You need 2 such beams. They are connected to each other using self-tapping screws in the shape of the letter “T”;
From the same timber, bridge elements-kerchiefs are made, connecting the vertical and horizontal parts of the “T” in the likeness of a mop, at an angle of 90 degrees;
Several such elements are made and they are fixed to the base.

The mini-fixer is ready. It is much less convenient to use than a conventional lift; it rather serves a supporting function, but it is easier to work with than climbing with sheets onto sawhorses every time a new panel is needed.