Wood copying machine: assembly of turning and milling equipment. Wood lathes Do-it-yourself copier for a lathe

All photos from the article

Turning copying machine woodworking – a machine that is widely used in factory woodworking for replicating products of a certain configuration that corresponds to a given sample. This equipment allows you to process any parts with high accuracy and speed. However, production machines with their large dimensions will be difficult to locate in a small private workshop.

Copying equipment in woodworking

Many carpentry enthusiasts, gradually expanding their tool base and improving their skills, come to the idea of assembling a wood copy lathe with their own hands. After all, with the help of this device it is possible to make an exact copy of any piece of furniture and carry out restoration work.

Note!
In most cases, of course, the main factor that encourages people to “reinvent the wheel” is the high price of a finished factory product.

The operating principle of a wood copying machine is quite simple:

Blank required size clamped horizontally.
Starting the device, forcing the workpiece to rotate around its axis.
In turn, the movable cutter also removes excess wood, turning the blank into a product of the desired shape.

Structurally, a copying device for lathe woodworking consists of a whole series of parts connected to each other, so there will be a lot to work on.

Personal assembly of equipment at home

Lathe

In order to assemble a small copying machine for wood with your own hands, you will need to make some effort and patience, as well as invest financially (about 7-7.5 thousand rubles). But this is several times less than the costs that await you if you purchase a ready-made option.

There are a large number of jobs in the house and country house that require wood processing. To complete the task you will need a lathe. Ready-made production equipment is an expensive pleasure, so many craftsmen prefer to make the equipment themselves from improvised materials. Options for creating different lathes are described in the article.

The feasibility of making a wood lathe with your own hands

Automated equipment increases the efficiency of woodworking, which is especially important when organizing the production process or when performing household tasks. Modern models allow processing not only wooden products, and a number of soft metals (aluminum, bronze and copper). From the range of equipment you can choose any product - professional machines with wide functionality or equipment for home use.

The only disadvantage of a purchased lathe is its cost. To save your budget, there are three possible solutions to the problem: purchasing a Chinese-made analogue, purchasing old Soviet equipment and its subsequent repair, or making the machine yourself.

If the equipment is intended for domestic use and honing carpentry skills as part of a hobby, then a homemade wood lathe with your own hands is an excellent alternative to expensive equipment. Of course, such a model will not provide various “bells and whistles” of factory equipment, but its functions are quite sufficient for creating small crafts from soft wood.

Structural elements of a lathe

Regardless of the model, the main components of a wood lathe remain the same.

The bed is the basis of the structure. The platform is made of metal or several connected beams. More preferably, a metal base increases the stability of the equipment.
U-shaped cross beam.
An electric motor that sets the rotation of the workpiece being processed. Typically, factory models are equipped with a three-phase electric drive, which requires an appropriate power supply line for operation. The maximum rotation speed of the electric motor is 1500 rpm. In homemade products, single-phase motors with a power of 200-400 watts are often used.
Scroll chuck.
Tailstock support.
Rotating element.
Stop for placing a tool or workpiece.
Support for a tool rest.
Guide beam.
Tailstock stand.
Clips.
Metal plates for support of node connections.
Cross guide.
Screws for fixation.
Support axis.

The main operating parts of a lathe are the tailstock and the front headstock. A wooden blank is installed between the working elements. Rotation from an electric motor is transmitted to the product through the headstock. The tailstock, in fact, only holds the product, remaining static. The movement of the headstock occurs through manual drive.

The functionality of the lathe can be somewhat diversified by equipping the equipment with additional accessories:

baluster - a central support supporting the workpiece long length; this structural element prevents sagging of the workpiece;
trident - a chuck with teeth replaces a regular spindle if there are problems with scrolling the product during turning;
copier - for the manufacture of several similar parts; the element guides the cutter along the required path, ensuring identical dimensions/configuration of the products.

How to make a wood lathe with your own hands

Standard equipment dimensions

Photo. DIY wood lathe: drawing.

Typical dimensions of a homemade machine are:

length - 80 cm;
width - 40 cm;
height - 35 cm.

Equipment with such dimensions can handle woodworking workpieces up to 20 cm in length and up to 25 cm in diameter. These parameters are shown without using alignment through the tailstock. The part is fixed through a special faceplate. If applicable tailstock, then the length of the workpiece increases to 40 cm.

Selection of materials and preparation of tools

When choosing materials to create turning equipment, you will need the following materials:

The old electric sharpener was used for sharpening two stones. The tool will serve as the headstock. The unit is already equipped with four metal washers. Two of them are used to fix replaceable disks of different diameters, the insertion of which leads to an acceleration/deceleration of the rotation speed. To fix the blank, a special faceplate is installed on the other side.
Spare parts for an electric drill are suitable for the role of a tailstock.
Metal profile (channel) for making a wood lathe bed by hand.
Pulleys of different diameters rotate at a speed of 800-3000 rpm.
For the design layout the following will be useful:
- metal corner;
- pipes of different diameters;
- steel strips 2 cm and 4 cm wide;
- fasteners;
- drive belt.

The tools that will be used in the work are:

electric drill;
files;
Bulgarian;
welding machine and electrodes.

Manufacturing of elements and assembly of the machine

The sequence of work can be divided into several stages:

Lathe made from a washing machine engine

Manufacturing procedure of the machine:

Prepare the basis for the placement of all structural elements. Connect the beams with cross members and additionally secure them with two corners at the top.
Engine from washing machine attach to the headstock.
The basis of the tailstock is a rotating center attached to a support.
Make a support for the rear beam from a corner. Place the clip on the support axis and weld the structural element to the guide beams - the base of the machine. The stop and tailstock are movable mechanisms.
To fix the moving elements, preliminary holes are prepared.
First, the prepared parts are fastened together spot welding, and then they are finally connected by welding seams.

DIY mini wood lathe

You can build a small wood lathe with your own hands, the dimensions of which do not exceed 20-30 cm, using a motor and a power supply from a Soviet radio. A mini-turner can handle various small items made of wood (handles, key chains, etc.).

Assembly algorithm:

From metal sheet(1-2 mm) prepare the box for the engine. Give the plate a U-shape and prepare a hole for the shaft.
Make a supporting frame, supports for a compact engine and a tailstock from a piece of wood (2-3 cm thick).
Cut wooden squares and stack them. For fixation, you can use regular PVA glue.
Secure the resulting “tower” with four self-tapping screws.
Place a straight metal rod against the engine pulley and mark the placement point for the holder (screw).
A faceplate is installed as a counter holder on the motor side.

The mini-turner is easy to assemble. Its compact dimensions are about 22 cm. Of course, such equipment is not suitable for performing serious tasks, but it is quite suitable for processing small parts made of wood, tin and aluminum.

Manufacturing of a lathe and copying machine

The finished lathe can additionally be equipped with a copier, which is useful for forming the same type of thread and creating identical parts.

A hand router will fit under the copier base. The part is laid on plywood 1.2 cm thick with an area of 20*50 cm. Next, holes are made for fasteners and small supporting bars are mounted for installing the cutter. Place the cutter between the clamps and secure with self-tapping screws.

A block is installed on the lathe - later templates are attached to it. The size of the bar is 70*30 mm. The element is secured with self-tapping screws to the vertical supports, and the stands themselves are secured to the base of the machine.

If there is no need to use a copier, then the timber is dismantled and the equipment is used for simple turning of parts.

A DIY wood turning and copying machine has some disadvantages:

the working area with the router will have to be moved manually - during processing the moving part may jam;
the technique is suitable for copying simple elements;
To increase the versatility of the design, it is better to replace the cutter with a circular saw.

Features of making a wood turning and milling machine with your own hands

The design of turning and milling equipment includes the following main components:

Bed. To create it, wooden beams are taken from which the lattice structure is made. The headstock is fixed motionless. The location of the rear can be changed due to the movement of the installation panel along the ribs of the metal ribs of the frame.
Electric motor and rotation transmission system. To speed up work, a small disk is mounted on the engine shaft, and, on the contrary, on the front beam shaft big size. Connecting parts using a belt.
Fraser manual type. It is mounted at the top of the frame on a platform that moves relative to the workpiece along the guides.

DIY wood lathe: video

Our article is devoted to nostalgia for school labor training workshops. Many people know how to do wood turning, but not everyone can afford to buy and maintain equipment for this. Is it possible to assemble a machine with your own hands that meets technology and safety requirements? Let’s figure it out together.

What GOST says

The good news is that you don't have to reinvent the wheel. The entire assembly process and drawings of each machine module are described in TU3872-477-02077099-2002, and although this document is not publicly available, it can be obtained upon individual request. Although this is unlikely to be needed: the device of the machine is so primitive that you can easily navigate the intricacies of its manufacture even from images from school textbooks.

Another positive fact is that the STD-120M was apparently designed for on-site production, so you can either find almost all components for assembly on sale or make and modify it yourself. Naturally, if you have the opportunity to inexpensively purchase components for this machine or its younger brother TD-120, do so. Factory-produced parts are more reliable, easier to adjust, and the unified frame design allows you to assemble one machine from many donors.

Please also note that standardization of modules largely determines the safety of equipment operation. The basic principles of industrial safety are stated in GOST 12.2.026.0-93, and the rules of electrical protection are set out in GOST R IEC 60204-1. Harmonize any part or machine module you manufacture with these standards.

Manufacturing of the bed

Instead of a cast iron frame, we offer a lighter welded structure. It consists of two pieces of 72-gauge angle steel, each 1250 mm long. There is a great temptation to make the bed larger to process more massive products, but remember that such changes require intervention in other components of the machine. Perhaps you should take the TT-10460 as a sample for a meter-long workpiece.

We place the corners on a flat horizontal plane with shelves facing each other. We insert calibrated inserts between them so that the frame guides are positioned strictly parallel with a distance of 45 mm. To fasten the guides, we use two corners, the same as on the frame, 190 mm each, which we place on the front and rear edges. Before welding parts, it is recommended to squeeze them with clamps so that the metal does not move when it cools.

The guides are fastened with another 190 mm jumper, in the bottom shelf of which there are cutouts for each corner. This part is installed to form a cell, the dimensions exactly corresponding to the landing pin of the headstock, in the standard version it is 45x165 mm.

Such a frame can be attached in any way to a workbench or deck, but it is recommended to weld all fastening elements without compromising the integrity of the base. If a separate corner is allocated for the machine, weld pipe legs perpendicular to the corners of the frame and, for greater stability, make a small “brace” for them with a sledgehammer. Ultimately, the weight of the frame attached to the workbench should not be less than 60-70 kg.

Podruchnik

This element conditionally consists of two parts. For both, you need one type of workpiece - a 50 mm corner, inside of which another, 30 mm wide, is inserted. They are welded along the edges, in the end you should get two sections of 260 and 600 mm.

The short part is the adjustable base of the hand rest. One of the shelves is cut off, but not completely, leaving a 110 mm long section with an inclined cut. The other shelf is cut at a right angle 60 mm from the rear edge. You need to make a counter frame from a thick steel plate that will clamp the guide of the tool rest.

To make a guide with a clamp, take a regular inch pipe and make a longitudinal cut in it with a grinder. The resulting sleeve should be about 150 mm long; we insert it into a 25 mm corner, orienting the slot outward perpendicular to one of the shelves. We tighten the parts with a clamp and weld along the entire length closest to the shelf slot. We cover the workpiece with a second corner of the same length and attach it to the tube from the back side.

The guide is welded flat to the protruding flange of the adjustment rail on its inner side. For fixation, a screw with a long handle and a nut welded to the rail are used. On the reverse side, the strike plate is fastened with a cotter pin or even a welded rod.

The handrail is mounted on a 20 mm smooth reinforcement rod, which is located centrally on the outside of the corner blank. The rod fits tightly into the tube of the guide system, and when the screw is tightened, it is securely pressed on all sides. A long corner piece 600 mm long is welded to the rod with a slight inclination toward itself and a slightly “sharpened” leading edge.

Drive and transmission

The standard drive option is an asynchronous three-phase motor with a power of up to 2 kW (usually 1.2 kW), connected to the headstock shaft by a V-belt drive on two-belt pulleys. The bed for fastening the engine can be located between the legs of the frame, or on an additional scaffold behind the headstock, which will complicate the assembly, but will make it more convenient to transfer the belt.

It is not always possible to use the engine at the required shaft speed, so reaching the final speed is achieved by adjusting the diameter of the pulleys. For example, if you have a blood pressure at 1480 rpm, then in order to reach the coveted 1100 and 2150 rpm, the diameters of the leading and driven streams must be in a ratio of 1:1.5 and 1.3:1.

When placing the engine, it is useful to provide the frame with a plate attached to the gate canopies. An engine installed using such a system will be in a suspended state all the time and will ensure that the belt is pressed tightly own weight. And if you equip the platform with a pedal, the speed can be changed even on the go.

There are no problems with the electrical part either. Switching is performed by a standard three-phase starting button with reverse; for such a low-power motor there is no need to install a starter. The only thing is turning on the brakes DC while holding down the stop button, for which you will need a powerful diode bridge (on the KD203D) according to the standard switching circuit.

The frequency-controlled motor can be used as a direct drive, eliminating the need to construct the headstock. To do this, you need to fix the engine on the transition platform, in the lower part of which there is a longitudinal mounting spike 45 mm wide as a standard means of adjustment for the STD120 frame.

Headstock

Looking ahead, we note that both the front and tailstock include parts that can only be made with access to a metal lathe. Otherwise, it makes sense to think about purchasing ready-made modules, or at least their cast consoles.

At the base of the headstock there are two bearing housings of types S, V or U, permanently mounted on an angle steel frame. Unfortunately, it is impossible to predict which sizes will be available, but in general, the height of the spindle axis above the bed should be at least 120 mm. Given that the diameter of the spindle shaft is about 25 mm, the most interesting would be the standard size of the bearing assembly with a total height dimension of about 70 mm.

The shaft is machined from carbon steel round timber with a diameter of 40 mm with a tolerance of no more than 0.05 mm. There are two main variations of the shaft. The first is the simplest: the shaft pillar remains in the center, then descents are made to the landing diameter of the bearing units, then threads are cut at the ends. For axial fixation, four grooves are machined on the shaft for retaining rings.

1 — seats for bearings; 2 — grooves for retaining rings

The second variation has an extension in the form of a skirt immediately behind the cartridge thread. It is designed to install a flanged thrust bearing mounted on the boss of the headstock base. This approach allows you to reduce bearing wear if massive parts are processed on the machine.

The base of the headstock is two pairs of corners or two channels turned towards each other. By moving the vertical shelves together, you can adjust the height of the base to the axial height of the existing bearing units. A 45 mm strip is welded to the base below, which acts as an adjustment groove. The order of assembly is important: first, bearings are pressed onto the spindle, then the shaft is mounted on a frame with a backing of adjusting steel plates.

Tailstock

Making a tailstock is much easier. It consists of four parts:

The base is made from angle steel, 100mm high, using the same principle as for the headstock. Two 50 mm corners are bolted across the top; in their shelves in the center there are cutouts with squares 40 mm wide.
The guide (external) thick-walled square tube is 40 mm wide, 150 mm long and has an internal clearance of 20x20 mm. In the rear part you need to install a plug 6-8 mm thick and with a hole in the center of 8 mm, it is secured with two screws through the walls of the tube.
The inner tube, also known as the quill, is made from a 20 mm profile tube, preferably thick-walled and milled exactly to fit the guide clearance. An M14 nut is welded in the rear part of the quill; a metal rod, widened to 5 mm, is inserted and welded into the front part, widened to 5 mm to fit a double-row bearing.
The drive screw has a thread for a nut in the quill (it is advisable to make it trapezoidal); in the rear part there is a transition to an 8 mm thread for attaching the flywheel.

The principle of operation and assembly diagram of the quill are quite obvious, but Special attention You need to pay attention to aligning the axes. The guide tube, fixed by welding in the cutouts of the corners, can rise higher or lower due to linings made of transformer steel. The headstock and tailstock must be absolutely aligned, the tolerance is only a couple of tenths.

As for the method of attachment to the bed, it is the same for both the headstocks and the tool rest. M14 or M16 studs are welded to the bottom of the headstocks, and a large plowshare bolt is inserted into the slot of the tool rest. The modules are tightened from below with nuts with rods welded to them like levers. For uniform, tight pressing from below, a 50 mm channel is placed as a counter strip.

File handles often break. A small adaptation to a wood lathe helped out the young craftsmen of school No. 1139 in the Babushkinsky district of Moscow. This is a copier for a lathe. Handles for files made on it are not inferior to ready-made ones.

The main components of a copier for a lathe are the lower and upper carriages. Both move along guides. The lower one is in the longitudinal direction, and the upper one is in the transverse direction. The carriages are firmly connected to each other. A small roller is installed on the upper carriage, which carries the main working body of the copier - the cutter.

1 - base of the device, 2 - cushion, 3 - guides of the lower carriage, 4 - squares, 5 - bushings, 6 - lower carriage, 7 - guides of the upper carriage, 8 - square, 9 - nut, 10 - square of the lower post, 11 - stand, 12 - upper stand square, 13 - copier (of two plates with a figured cutout), 14 - shaft, 15 - upper carriage, 16 - copier stand, 17 - nut, 18 - roller, 19 - nut for screw 14, 20 - flywheel, 21 - cutter nut, 22 - cutter, 23 - square, 24 - washer 60x40x5, 25 - screw M10X165x10, 26 - wing nut M10, 27 - corner of the lower carriage, 28 - lock for the nut. 29 - M6 screw (4 pcs.), 30 - M6 nuts (8 pcs.), 31 - M5 nuts (4 pcs.), 32 - M6x12 screws (4 pcs.), 33 - M5X10 screws (4 pcs.).

When the device operates, the roller moves along the copier slot as if along a guide and leads the upper carriage with the cutter. The cutter, repeating the line of movement of the roller, and therefore the line of the copier, processes the workpiece mounted on the lathe. Original and simple.
Before you start making your copier, we want to
warn you about the precision of manufacturing and assembly of both carriages. They should move easily and at the same time without play along their guides. To do this, you must maintain the tolerances indicated on the drawings.
From correct production and proper assembly depends on the success of the entire device and the quality of the finished products.
The device is installed on a wood lathe between the headstock and tailstock. It itself is attached to cushion 2, and the cushion is attached to the machine bed with a thumbscrew (parts 25 and 26).
Having square or round section the required length, pre-cut on a circular saw, you must first find the centers at their ends. The center at one end must be punched, that is, a depression must be made in it. It is needed to install the headers in the center of the tailstock. From the other end of the workpiece, use a hacksaw to make a slot in the center to a depth of 5-6 mm. With this slot you will place the workpiece on the headstock comb. The result is a permanent connection between the headstock and the workpiece.
When the workpiece is installed in the lathe, move the copier cutter by rotating the handwheel handle in right side all the way.
Turn on the machine and, tightening nut 21, feed the cutter to the workpiece. Now, when you rotate the flywheel, you will see how the cutter starts working. It will shape the pen according to the copier. And its shape can be different depending on the tool for which the handle is made. For files you need handles of one shape, for chisels - another, for awls - a third. In our device, the copier is made for a standard handle of medium files.
Once the cutter reaches the end of the headstock, push the cutter nut forward and it will cut the finished handle.
Our device, as you noticed, operates by hand drive. But it is quite possible to install a reversible engine. Decide for yourself how to do this.
The processing of the handle depends on the rotation speed of the lathe spindle and on the smallest allowances on the workpiece. Therefore, depending on this, the cutter makes one, two, or even three passes over the workpiece.

S. KOKOREV
Supplement to UT 1981 No. 10

Lathes and copying machines are used to make many identical parts, for example, balusters for stair railings, fence posts, etc. You can make a functional design with your own hands, using devices that are unnecessary on the farm.

Making a lathe

turning and copying homemade machine

The most primitive model of a lathe is made from conventional drill. But this is not the only solution. Main parts of the future device:

bed;
front and rear pillars (headstocks);
electric motor;
master and slave centers;
tool rest.

The bed is the base for placing all elements and mechanisms. Therefore, it is made of thick timber or metal. The headstock is securely fixed to the base; the part will be attached to it. The front pillar houses a device that transmits movement from the electric motor to the driving center and then to the part.

The rear post (headstock) moves along a guide on the bed; it holds the free end of the workpiece. A tool rest is placed between the headstocks. The headstocks must be positioned strictly along a single axis.

For a do-it-yourself machine, an electric motor with a power of 200 - 250 W, with a speed of no more than 1500, is suitable. If you plan to process large parts, a more powerful motor is required.

A faceplate is placed on the electric motor pulley, which secures large workpieces. The faceplate contains points on which the part is pressed. The opposite end of the part is fixed with a corner.

To turn a regular lathe into a copying machine, an additional device is required - a copier.

Copier for lathe

The basis of the copier will be an unnecessary manual router. It is placed on a surface made of 12 mm plywood, the size of the platform is 20 x 50 cm. Holes are made in the platform for fasteners and cutters, and stops are installed - bars for fixing the cutter. The router is placed between the clamps and secured with a pair of large nails.

The distant part of the platform moves along the frame along a guide - a pipe. Its ends are fixed in wooden blocks. The bars are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. When fixing the pipe, you must use a level and align the axis of the pipe with the center of the machine. Before installation, a pair of bars with holes are put on the pipe and can be easily moved along the guide. A platform on which the router is placed is attached to the bars.

The second important element is installed with your own hands directly on the lathe - a block in a horizontal position on which the templates will be attached. A 7 x 3 cm beam is suitable; it is attached to the vertical stands with self-tapping screws. The stands are screwed to the frame. The top surface of the block must clearly coincide with the axis of the machine.

When the copier is not in use, the block is dismantled, the platform with the milling cutter is moved back and the machine turns into a regular lathe.

The stop is made of thick plywood and is attached to the work surface. In fact, the stop plays the role of a copier in this design. It is fixed vertically and fixed to the end of the working surface on a transition beam made of wood. The copier can be removed, it is installed on the stand with self-tapping screws. The stand must be fixed rigidly, without the possibility of removal.

The templates are made of plywood and are screwed to the front surface of the block using self-tapping screws. The upper surface of the beam should be aligned with the axis of the template.

Disadvantages of the proposed design

The working surface with the router has to be moved with both hands, since during operation it warps and jams;
You can only copy fairly simple elements, for example, it is impossible to repeat twisted patterns on posts;
to move the cutter it is more convenient to provide a screw drive;
It’s better to replace the cutter with a circular saw; such a device will be more universal.

Videos demonstrating the operation of homemade turning and copying machines:

stanokgid.ru

How to make a copier for a wood lathe?

In order to make a copier for a wood lathe, you will need the following components that will be necessary in the manufacturing process:

electric motor with a power of approximately 800W;
metal shaft with a nozzle for changing the saw blade;
metal profile of square section, metal corners;
wooden sheet;
furniture guides;
metal marker;
fastening materials.
welding machine, grinder.

First you need to make metal guides.

They will allow you to move the entire copier structure in the longitudinal plane. In this case, two metal corners are used, which are turned over with the sharp side down. The corners are welded together into pieces of metal profile.

This approach allows us to provide the necessary mechanical strength and eliminate the possibility of the guides bending under the weight of the copier. In practice, any other metal profile can be suitable for the manufacture of longitudinal guides, the main thing is that its mechanical parameters allow it to carry out the assigned tasks.

In this case, to make the base of the future copier, we used wooden box and board. The board is sized to allow movement inside the box in a perpendicular plane.

For fastening and subsequent movement, ordinary furniture guides are used.

The engine is attached to the board on top. In this case the power electric motor is 800W, and the speed is 3000 rpm. Depending on your needs, you can use a motor with other parameters.

Next, the shaft should be secured to the board at such a distance that the belt drive normally connects two pulleys, one of which is located at the end of the motor shaft, and the second on the horse-mounted shaft of the saw blade. Applies here homemade shaft with one bearing.

A U-shaped structure must be made from a square metal profile. In the upper part of the U-shaped structure, a special metal holder of square cross-section is welded to the horizontal bar. The length of the holder must be less than the length of the marker.

To secure the marker in the holder, holes are drilled on the top plate. A metal nut is welded onto each hole and a bolt is screwed into it. Two bolts will be enough for reliable fixation. The adjustable marker is very convenient when changing saw blades of different diameters.

Easy enough to install required disk and use a plumb line to align the marker with the edge of the disk. The marker mount must correspond to the position of the saw blade in all planes. This allows you to simply move the marker along the prepared template to coaxially move the disk along the rotating workpiece.

The entire machine is assembled from two channels and metal corners for scabbard On which the motor is mounted, rotating wooden blank. In this case it applies electric motor power 1200W.

Can be used as a frame old frame from some other machine. For ease of operation, it is better to place the engine on a removable metal plate, which allows you to move the structure with the workpiece, both in the vertical and horizontal planes.

The clamping head is made of four metal plates in the shape of a rectangular parallelepiped. Two nuts are welded into the end walls of the clamping head, into which a metal screw is screwed. A cone with a cartridge is installed at the end of the screw.

In cases where you need to eliminate the possibility of contamination of the surrounding space with sawdust from the operation of the machine or to minimize the percentage of contamination, you should make a hood.

The saw blade is covered with a metal casing, to which a flexible corrugated hose and a compressor unit are connected to create an air flow of a given power.

Video: making a copier for a wood lathe.

metmastanki.ru

Do-it-yourself lathe copier (copying lathe)

Making a lathe copy with your own hands is not the most difficult task. But in order to achieve the desired result in terms of quality and efficiency, you will have to make some efforts. You will need it detailed drawing, a copy template and a few hours of free time. We offer you a version of a copier machine based on hand cutter as a cutting tool.

Photo of a lathe copier with your own hands

The proposed copier for your lathe requires little financial, time and labor costs. This is why it attracts a large number of craftsmen who need a copier for a lathe.

The cutting device will be a hand router. Wherein operational capabilities copiers directly depend on the characteristics of the turning equipment itself.

You should not count on the attractiveness of the design of a device you create yourself, since its main task is to create copies according to a template without unnecessary energy consumption.

The device of the machine with a copier

DIY lathe copier drawing

To begin with, to create a lathe with a tracer, you will need a hand router. Choose its type yourself, depending on the planned work;
The router is mounted on a support platform with dimensions of approximately 50 by 20 centimeters. It can be made from 12 mm thick plywood sheets;
At your request, the copying machine can have a larger or smaller platform. The dimensions largely depend on the parameters of the selected router;
On the support platform, make holes through which the routers will come out;
Holes for fastenings are also made here. It is optimal to use bolts as fasteners;
Thrust bars located around the perimeter and fixed with self-tapping screws will provide protection against accidental movements of the cutter when processing products;
Having installed the cutter support between the bars, make sure that it is securely fixed and there is no vibration or play;
The far end of the support platform must be able to move along the guide pipe along the entire length of the turning equipment;
Use a guide pipe with a diameter of 25 millimeters, or adapt it to your machine parameters;
The main condition when choosing pipes is that they must cope with the loads from the weight of the router, not sag, and maintain an even, smooth surface;
Secure the ends of the pipes with a pair of wooden blocks suitable size;
The bars are mounted to the machine body with self-tapping screws or through bolts.

Installation of structural elements

In order for the lathe with a copier to work efficiently, and the copying process does not raise quality issues, do not rush in any case. It is precisely the rush that prevents craftsmen from making a really good copier for a lathe with their own hands.

Having studied the drawing on the basis of which you decided to build a copier with your own hands, stick to the suggested dimensions. If you make even a small error, the copying technology may be completely disrupted and the working axes may be disrupted.

To prevent anything like this from happening, stick to a few important rules.

The axis of the pipe intended for moving the router must be exactly parallel to the axis of rotation of the machine.
The coincidence of the pipe axis and the machine axis is also an important plus, although this condition is not mandatory.
The main point is the coincidence of the router in the lowest position with the axis of the turning device. This parameter is controlled and changed as necessary due to the level of placement of the copier.
Fix the guide pipe through the blind holes of the wooden blocks. But immediately before fixing, place two bars on the pipe on which you plan to install the supporting platform.
The wooden blocks for the load-bearing platform must move very easily, or rather slide along the guide pipe. If loosening is noticed, the copying unit will have to be redone.

Many fear the moment when increased demands are placed on gliding. But making a machine with such operating parameters is not difficult if you use an even, smooth pipe.

Horizontal bars

The next step is to install the horizontal wooden block, which is the second most important operating component of your lathe with a tracer.

Adhere to similar precision requirements as in the operations described above;
The horizontal beam is connected to the workpiece profile template;
To make a block with your own hands, you can use a workpiece measuring 7 by 3 millimeters and fix it with self-tapping screws to the vertical posts;
The wooden stands themselves are mounted to the lathe bed using any method convenient for you;
Make sure that the top edge of the horizontal element is parallel to the axis of the machine and is located at the same level;
If at some point you don’t need the copying functionality, you can easily remove the block with your own hands, fold the mounting platform onto the edge of the machine and use the turning unit for its intended purpose without a copier;
A vertical stop is mounted to the milling table. A sheet of thin plywood is quite suitable here. Although if you require a more durable structure, use steel sheets;
This element is used to move around the copier when sharpening parts. It sets the spatial position for the working milling cutter. Therefore, the copier should be fixed as securely as possible;
Thickness plays an important role. The thinner the vertical stop is, the more accurately the lathe can copy your template. But even if the stop is too thin, the device begins to move according to the pattern with certain difficulties. Therefore, the optimal way out of the situation is to search for an intermediate option;
If you use plywood to make a copier, be sure to consider using a removable design. This will allow you to easily dismantle the copier when it wears out and replace it with a new one with minimal time investment.

Sample

The last but not least important element of a lathe with a copier function is the copy template itself. It is not difficult to make, but the configuration completely depends on the parameters of the products that you want to obtain using your machine.

Take a sheet of plywood or OSB board;
Apply markings on the sheet according to the contours of the future product that you want to turn on a lathe;
Be sure to compare all dimensions with the required parameters;
Electric jigsaw Using a cutting blade, carefully follow the contours, cutting out required part;
Finish the edges grinder or regular sandpaper. The template should not have any irregularities, burrs or nicks;
Secure the resulting template to the horizontal rail using self-tapping screws;
Carry out fixation strictly in accordance with the installation parameters.

Using drawings and video instructions, you can easily make a fairly efficient, productive copy lathe unit yourself. You just need a little patience and time.

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Wood copying machine: assembly of turning and milling equipment

All photos from the article

A wood turning and copying machine is a machine that is widely used in factory woodworking for replicating products of a certain configuration that corresponds to a given sample. This equipment allows you to process any parts with high accuracy and speed. However, production machines with their large dimensions will be difficult to locate in a small private workshop.

A huge machine easily copes with work that is beyond the control of a person

Copying equipment in woodworking

Note! In most cases, of course, the main factor that encourages people to “reinvent the wheel” is the high price of a finished factory product.

The operating principle of a wood copying machine is quite simple:

The workpiece of the required size is clamped in a horizontal position.
We launch a device that forces the workpiece to rotate around its axis.
In turn, the movable cutter also removes excess wood, turning the blank into a product of the desired shape.

Similar products can be obtained by working on copying equipment

Structurally, a copying device for a wood lathe is a whole series of parts connected to each other, so there will be a lot to work on.

Personal assembly of equipment at home

Lathe

These are the masterpieces of interaction between hands and head found in private workshops

The model of small-sized equipment of the so-called beam type proposed for assembly can be divided into the following components:

Frame.
Slave and leading center.
Electric motor.
Front and rear headstock.
Stop for cutter.

Now we’ll tell you in more detail about how a wood copying lathe looks and is assembled:

It is clear that the frame is the foundation of the entire structure, on which all other parts will be based. Therefore, appropriate requirements are placed on it. It must be strong, stable and reliable. Therefore, it is better to make it from a steel profile, but it is quite suitable wooden beam big cross section. The electric motor and the driving center are connected to each other and fixed to the front of the base. Due to the electric drive, the blank is rotated.

Another option where the sampling depth depends on physical strength (pressing the handle, in the photo)

Attention! The selection of an electric motor for a copying device for a wood lathe is carried out taking into account the size and complexity of the parts planned for production.

For the simplest tasks, a 200-watt unit will be sufficient.

The headstock serves as a stop for the workpiece, so it is permanently attached to the frame.
By moving the tailstock along the frame, the workpiece will be transformed into a part of a given sample.
A stop for the cutter is installed between the tailstock and the front headstock, which will serve as a holder.
The tailstock and front headstock and the stop for the cutter are mounted clearly along one line.
All components of the machine must be securely fastened with bolts.

Fasteners should be chosen only new, galvanized, tightening all individual elements with force so that the connection does not come loose. And wood turning and copying machines should be installed only level to avoid the slightest vibration.

Milling machine

If desired, you can also assemble a homemade copy machine milling machine on wood with your own hands.

Such a device is capable of:

Planar milling for creating profiles.
Volumetric milling for the design of reliefs.

A copying cutter for wood made of carbide metal reproduces the surface or contour of the master copier on the product.

The following is used as a copier:

Spatial model.
Flat template.
Reference model.
Outline drawing.

Simplest milling copier consists of a supporting frame - a base, a work table and directly a milling head equipped with an electric drive.

A hole is made in the center of the board and a router is attached in place of the hole, only on the reverse side

The dimensions of the workbench depend on the specific tasks for which the copy milling machine is assembled, as well as on the dimensions of the workroom.
Based on the nature of the work and the dimensions of future products, methods for fastening the workpieces and template are determined.
The power of the electric motor that rotates the cutter is also selected taking into account the planned loads.

Advice! For milling wood products and engraving at home, a motor with a power of 150-200 watts is sufficient.

Thus, having a copy-milling machine for wood in your workshop, you can create copies of the parts necessary for repairing furniture and other wooden structures with your own hands. And you can make souvenirs or decorative items according to our own drawings.

Since work on such equipment is quite dusty, it is best to place the machine outside or under a hood

Important! In pursuit of savings, people often forget about the safety of themselves and their loved ones. Please note: working with such a machine is quite dangerous.

Especially in cases where a person has not encountered such a product before.

Conclusion

We hope that the information presented will help you determine the need for this tool. If you are thinking about individual work, then, most likely, the services of an organization working in this direction will cost you easier and cheaper. If there is a desire to put something on the conveyor, then you cannot do without your own machine.

In the video presented in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.