Ladle for a bath: types, manufacture and features of use. Country utensils

The bathing traditions of our ancestors implied not only concern for the cleanliness of the body, but also acquired a sacred meaning. “If you wash yourself in the bathhouse, you will be born again,” they said in Rus'.

When choosing accessories for a steam room, safety, practicality, durability, and design are taken into account. Look organic wooden products, which have created the special atmosphere of a good Russian bath since ancient times. In production, hardwood is used: birch, linden, aspen or oak. Conifers are not used because they release resin when heated. The surface is impregnated with wax, or linseed or hemp oil to prevent cracking and darkening. The transparent layer protects the surface from moisture, maintaining a pleasant-to-touch texture.

The size and shape of the sauna ladle depend on the purpose and individual preferences. Containers for scooping water, hollowed out from a solid block, are called carved. The composite wooden sauna ladle resembles a miniature barrel, which is why it received the name “cooperage”. The structures are assembled from plates and surrounded by tin tape. Wood fibers do not heat up from high temperatures, so there is no risk of burns. No less practical are metal models with anti-corrosion properties that can withstand high humidity without rust formation. Stainless steel (less often copper and brass) is used in production, and the handles are made of heat-resistant plastic to prevent burns to the palms. Hybrid options are also available: a metal one is placed in a wooden container.

It is better to choose a ladle for a sauna, where the air heats up to 100 degrees or higher, from wood with low thermal conductivity. The handles should be strong and comfortable to grip and not slip out of wet fingers.

In a steam room, you cannot do without a voluminous sauna scoop with a vertical handle, designed for pouring water from the tank into the bowls. The length of the handle is selected depending on the depth of the vat with the calculation of reaching the bottom. To water the heater you will need a special bowl with a long horizontal handle. Water falling on hot stones causes the release of hot steam, and such models evenly distribute the jets over the surface of the stove. The optimal volume of the ladle for pouring is more than 0.5 liters.

Even the smallest details are important in a bathhouse. Often in a steam room you need ladles for water. Their size and shape usually depend on the size of the steam room and personal preferences, but there are general recommendations according to their choice.

When choosing any accessories and items for the bath, you need to proceed from several criteria. You need to take into account safety, practicality, durability, and aesthetic components. Well, there’s no escape from the material side either: in many cases, the decisive factor in the choice is the price.

Wooden buckets

Wood is the most traditional of all possible materials for bath accessories. Typically, linden, aspen, cedar or oak wood is used for bath ladles. In order to extend their service life, wooden ladles are coated with a layer of wax or impregnated with linseed oil. But even in this option, they have a short service life: they darken or crack, and may simply lose their aesthetic appearance.

Wooden bath ladles also come in several types:

Metal

Metal sauna ladles are more practical, but in order not to get burned, the handle of such an accessory must be made of wood or heat-resistant plastic. The materials used for manufacturing are copper, brass or stainless steel.

A brass or copper sauna ladle is not a cheap pleasure, but it also has a significant service life. The stainless steel ladle in this group is the cheapest, but by no means the worst: performance characteristics His is no worse, and perhaps even better. Brass and copper ladle will oxidize and darken over time. Periodically they need to be rubbed to restore a decent appearance. Not everyone will like this procedure: sit and sand the surface with a soft cloth. No problems with stainless steel. They are like a Christmas tree: in winter and summer they are the same color. In the sense that they do not change at all.

From a safety point of view, bath ladles and metal scoops are not the best best choice: They may become hot and burn. In the Russian steam room with her not very high temperatures You will get a full-fledged burn if the ladle lies near the stove, but in saunas they heat up even from the air. In dry air vents, temperatures of 90-100° C are not the limit. And you can easily get burned with metal at this temperature. SO it’s better not to take metal buckets into saunas.

There are also hybrid buckets: a metal container is inserted inside a wooden bucket. This bucket is convenient, durable and practical. It is difficult for them to get burned; it will not allow water to pass through, even if the wood dries out. The cost is, however, decent.

Plastic

Most budget option– ladle made of heat-resistant plastic. Relevant modern materials You can safely dip it into boiling water. The only issue is the issue of aesthetics, which is compensated by the low price and a decent margin of safety.

Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages, but any of them is suitable for use in a bathhouse, but there should be no glass accessories in the steam room (and even in the bathhouse).

What kind of ladles are needed in a bathhouse?

If your stove has a remote one, or there is a faucet in the mounted/built-in tank, then you can collect water in a basin or bucket. If a tap is not provided, you will need to draw water from above, through a special hole in the tank lid. You will need a fairly large ladle with a long vertical handle. They are also called scoops because they scoop up water.

The length of the handle depends on the configuration and size of the tank: the greater the depth, the longer the handle must be in order to be able to get water from the bottom. It is convenient to have several of these scoops: if more than two people usually steam, then one scoop is clearly not enough.

You also need a special ladle for watering the heater in the bathhouse. These buckets have a long horizontal handle. Even a small portion of water falling on hot water causes the release of heated steam. If your hand is in the “affected zone,” you can get a noticeable burn, which is very difficult to treat. Some models of buckets have holes. Such scoops help to distribute water evenly over the surface of the stones if an open heater is used. How convenient it is to use them is a moot point.

You also need a ladle for pouring in the bathhouse. It is inconvenient to do this using a container with a long handle. The volume of the ladle for pouring is at least 0.4-0.5 liters. It’s also convenient to have several of them, depending on the number of steamers. This is much more convenient than waiting for your turn... If children will be steaming in the bathhouse, you can purchase several pieces of a smaller volume so that the children can comfortably enjoy the procedure.

An expensive ladle is hardly necessary in a bathhouse, but for those for whom the aesthetic component is very important, we can advise you to select a bucket and a ladle at the same time. If you purchased both a bucket and composite buckets - cooperage ones, it would be logical to order buckets of the same type.

For those who have both wood and metal in their bathhouse design, it is worth thinking about metal ladles with wooden handles– they will “fit” perfectly into this design option. If resources are limited, you can choose very good plastic accessories that will look good in the bathhouse, but when pouring water onto the heater with such a ladle, you need to be careful not to touch the very hot elements with it. For a heater it is better to use metal or wooden ladle.

How to make a ladle with your own hands: video tutorials

For those who like to do everything with their own hands, there was a video on how to make a carved ladle. A special cutter with different attachments is used here, but if desired, everything can be done hand tools. It will undoubtedly take more time, but it’s hardly worth buying equipment just for a couple of buckets.

The second video is about how to make a carved ladle for a bath. Here the master works exclusively with hand tools. His dexterity is enviable.

This lesson was provided to us by a MASTER from the city of Syzran. It tells in detail (and shows - so far the largest master class on the site - more than 30 photos) how to make a beautiful ladle-mug from a log.

So, first we take a log and cut it into ridges of the required length. This can be done conveniently using a gas or electric saw.

We split it into two “equal cotyledons”.
We draw out the working plane with a hatchet, if this is necessary, of course. We draw the contours of the future vessel on it and begin to remove excess material with it, first roughly.

You can (and should) in some places, for example, at the ends, use a hacksaw, a jigsaw, or better yet band saw(if there is, we don’t have it yet)

We file the handle, leaving an allowance, and chop it off with an ax. Dangerous moment! If the fibers don’t go straight, you can even chip off half the scoop!

Finer removal of material is done using semicircular chisels.

On the resulting side profile we draw the contours of the handle and scoop.

And one more shot illustrating both projections.

Let's move on to processing the handle. Using the same chisels, we roughly remove the material, adjusting it to the contour.

select a hole using cranberries

What is not convenient to cut with a chisel is removed with a knife

Now you need to connect the contours on the bottom and body. To do this, draw another contour of the narrowing of the bottom.

I did it with an axe, you can use a knife or a chisel, it doesn’t matter

Using a sharp knife, we remove all irregularities, angularities, etc., rounding off the shapes.

We do this until it looks like this.

Let's move on to choosing a bowl. To speed up the process, we’ll use 35 mm. The main thing here is not to drill through.

Next, using a power chisel and mallet, we chop off the main mass inside. The chisel, like many of my tools, is homemade. I forged it from a spring, hardened it, and that’s how I use it. Fully working

Gradually remove the material from the scoop.

We take a narrower chisel and continue working.

Using cranberry we go deeper into the bottom, cutting off the flat part formed by the cutter.

We evenly select the material until it reaches this state: the walls are slightly translucent, the thickness should be left approximately 5-6 mm with an allowance for further polishing

Here general view intermediate product.

We turn the ladle over and select a recess on the bottom so that it does not rock on the table.

We remove everything unnecessary and this is what we have at the end of the first part. We URGENTLY wrap it in newspapers and a bag, otherwise it will crack!!! Let it dry. Then there will be sanding.

That's it, drying is complete. Let's start sanding

Let's start grinding inner part with this homemade device.

This is how it happened after 7-10 minutes of work, during the process I changed the sanding wheel twice. But you still need to work with your hands!

Now let's sand the outside. Tape grinding machine makes life a lot easier!

We run the bucket from all accessible sides, with a belt up to 80.

after processing with 80th tape it turns out like this.

Now with your hands! Using sandpaper of the same grain size, we smooth out the remains and then clean it with a finer one until smooth.

Then we wet it with water. Raise the pile and sand again, gradually reducing the grain size.

It’s convenient to use this sponge for this. I repeated the process 4 times, the result was satisfactory. You can do more, you won’t ruin the ladle with sandpaper!

Now the impregnation. I use regular flaxseed from the pharmacy. Some people recommend special bleached flaxseed oil, I have not tried it yet. First we pour it inside.

Oil appears at the ends literally before our eyes! Next, I thickly lubricate the entire surface and leave it in the sun until absorbed, then repeat the process.

Soaked it three times. Then I melt the wax in a water bath and apply it with a brush. Then I warm up the mug (without fanaticism!!!) to absorb the wax, wipe it with a dry cloth and that’s it. (stormy applause turning into standing ovation)

Accessories for a bath are a number of accessories without which it is impossible to call the cleansing ritual fully enjoyable and useful. Stylish and practical items create a special atmosphere of comfort and complete fusion with the tradition of the manipulations carried out. Brooms and brushes, hats and slippers, thermometers and hygrometers - this is just a small part of what falls under this definition.

The production of bath accessories has entered a new stage of its development; the products offered by companies can surprise even the seasoned buyer. But many, nevertheless, prefer devices carefully made with their own hands.

How to prepare a bath broom?

The bath broom is the king of accessories and the king of the Russian bath.

But in order to be absolutely sure of its environmental purity, you can and should do it yourself. And do it right, because otherwise it will be enough for exactly one time.

The most practical and most frequently used broom is made from tree branches. You can choose almost any tree, but you should be careful, because there are thorns, dirt, and the risk of discharge from the broom harmful substances- this is clearly not what you expect from bathhouse relaxation. The leaders in popularity are birch and oak samples.

Interesting! If you want to get a tangible healing effect from a broom, you can prepare it from herbs, for example, from nettle. And also from mint, lemon balm, wormwood.

The best branches for a broom are those that have young, small foliage (June). Oak blanks can be collected all summer - they are their own beneficial properties don't lose quickly. The weather for “hunting” them should be dry and warm.

Choose thin, straight and resilient branches. Their optimal length is from forty to sixty centimeters. It will be extremely problematic to tie branches that are too short.

Important! Don't be barbarians, cut the necessary "material" from different trees!

Before you start knitting a broom, you need to clear the lower part of each branch from leaves and all kinds of knots. When collecting the “elements” into a single structure, systematically shake the “bun” so that it turns out beautiful, even, dense and curly.

The technique of knitting brooms itself is, in principle, simple. The branches are fastened with synthetic strong twine. The first tie should be placed close to the end of the handle and tightened loosely. Then the broom is divided in half and intertwined with force: the left part is “led” through the top to the right, the right part through the bottom to the left. And so on several times. The handle ends up being dense, the rods in different sides don't stick out. Since the material for the broom is taken fresh, everything twists quite easily.

For the second tie, use the same twine, but take a longer piece and tie it as high and tight as possible. The ends of the “clamp” are not cut off; they will subsequently serve to connect the brooms into pairs. At the end of the knitting, the ends of the branches on the handle are carefully cut off with a sharp ax.

“Freshly prepared” brooms are hung in the attic to dry. When the leaves reach a state of fragility, the brooms are wrapped in paper, leaving only the handle “free.” They are preserved in this form. Ideally, in a closet or drawer, where neither light nor dampness can reach.

Buckets, steamers, gangs

These wooden bath accessories can also be designed independently if desired.

To make steamers and buckets, wood of various species is used - oak, aspen, linden. For gangs - pine, cedar. Their volume can vary at your discretion (from ten liters).

A set of well-fitted planks, a blank bottom, a metal hoop, twine, a couple of tools - and a high-quality container at your disposal. True, such amateur performances will require some skills and serious perseverance.

In order for the accessories obtained as a result of painstaking work to serve you for a long time, you should adhere to certain rules for their operation:

• wood is a living material; it can dry out, become moldy, and crack. To prevent such trouble from befalling your buckets, steamers and tubs, regularly scald them with boiling water after bath procedures. Then wipe dry and put away from the oven. Yes, yes, many accessories for a Russian bath require special treatment and high-quality care;
• If wooden containers have not been used for a long time, they, one way or another, lose their tightness. Therefore, before bath procedures, fill them to the top cold water for several hours. The material will swell and all microcracks will repair themselves. Then pour out the water and pour boiling water over the utensils to disinfect.

Worth knowing! When using oak brooms, do not be surprised that wooden products that come into contact with them darken - tannins give such a piquant shade to any materials.

Scoop and ladle

The very first thing that the imagination draws is wooden fixtures. Wood for a bathhouse has a number of undeniable advantages, its low thermal conductivity is especially appreciated. But before you buy ladles for a bath (and if you want, make them yourself), you should decide on the type of material from which they should be made. It is optimal if it is oak, linden or aspen.

Important! To increase the service life of products, be sure to impregnate them with linseed oil or wax.

Another material widely used for the production of this type of bath utensils is metal. Products made from it have a long service life - much longer than wood.

But metal conducts heat very well - and this is where its hidden danger: There is a risk of getting burned. That is why metal scoops and ladles must be equipped with wooden handles. It is better to choose (or make) accessories from copper, stainless steel, brass - these materials do not corrode.

It is impossible not to mention plastic buckets and scoops. There are no contraindications to their use, unless you are really building a Russian bathhouse “for the soul” - such elements will simply stand out from the overall interior.

Combined buckets can be called current - a plastic liner is inserted into a wooden base. Such samples are both visually attractive and will last longer.

You shouldn’t buy into the sophistication and style of glass products - breaking them is as easy as shelling pears, in general, it’s not practical.

Important! To avoid cuts from splinters, the use of any glass accessories in the bathhouse is not recommended.

Body brush

Some accessories for the Russian, as well as many accessories for the Turkish bath, especially popular in lately, it’s better to buy them instead of bothering with making them yourself. Because the end result may not be exactly what you expected, and it will take a lot of time.

The brush is just one of them.

The main function performed by the brush is, of course, massage. Brushes for self-massage are equipped with long handles - with their help you can reach any part of the back.

These accessories are made from wood, plastic, and silicone. The bristles themselves can vary in length, as well as in the degree of stiffness. It is preferable that it be made from natural materials, because, according to experts, artificial “lint” cleanses the skin much better.

If bath procedures are a regular ritual for you, it is recommended to replace the brushes with new ones at least once every four months.

DIY washcloth

Washcloths are an indispensable bath attribute, so it is not at all surprising that their range in stores does not stop growing. Soft and hard, large and small, round and square, in the shape of a loop and a mitten - your eyes are wide open. You should choose based on your taste preferences, not forgetting the degree of skin sensitivity. Because the body may not accept natural and synthetic samples equally well.

If you were unable to find it in the store best option this accessory, you can make it yourself.

Knitting washcloths is, in principle, a simple process. Choose sheep, goat or any other wool that suits your texture and stiffness, and start making your own. First, the handle for the washcloth is knitted, and then the fabric itself - until it reaches the desired length.

Pay attention! Try to make the handle as durable as possible - otherwise it will lose its appearance after the first contact with water.

In order to rid the washcloth of its “initial” hardness, you should pour boiling water over it before the first use.

Bath towel - secrets from needlewomen

If you love and know how to sew, you can make a bath towel with your own hands without any problems. To do this you will need terry cloth and very little time.

• sew a wide elastic band on one side of the material (pre-stitched along the perimeter);
• cover this edge with decorative fabric;
• sew on Velcro to “fasten” the towel;
• if desired and necessary, add pockets and other items to the product decorative elements- everything here is at the mercy of your imagination.

DIY scented soap

You can make the most excellent bath soap with your own hands using an opaque soap base.

Take one hundred grams of the base and melt it in a regular water bath.

Stirring thoroughly, add half a teaspoon of jojoba oil, a few drops of glycerin and two teaspoons of dried seaweed. At the very end of cooking, add five drops essential oil eucalyptus or fir. If desired, you can add green dye to the mixture at this time. Mix your brew thoroughly again and pour it into the molds. Don't worry, once the soap dries, it will easily separate from the containers.

If you often make “soap” bath accessories, photos of various master classes on the Internet will certainly interest you. This way, you will be able to improve your skills and create magnificent bath gifts for friends and relatives.

Headrest

Headrest for a bath - very convenient device. It helps to achieve complete relaxation when receiving procedures in a lying position.

For its manufacture, loose wood of any species is used. It is very convenient to make such accessories for a bathhouse with your own hands, since who, if not you, knows what sizes and configurations are most desirable for your bathhouse.

Pay attention special attention the quality of grinding of product elements, avoid sharp edges. Make sure that there are no nails or other metal elements protruding from the headrest - this is a potential risk of local burns.

DIY bath hat

To prevent a visit to a bathhouse or sauna from causing health problems, you should definitely take care of your head - with bath caps. They prevent heat stroke due to the effect of a thermos.

Before making bath accessories for such an important purpose, you should carefully study the types of fabrics suitable for these purposes. First of all, the fabric should be natural, however, neither silk nor linen will definitely work here. Fabrics for bath caps are made from natural wool, famous for its excellent heat-insulating properties. Linen and cotton are used with no less success. But the most popular materials are still felt and felt.

Interesting! Both felt and felt are made from felted wool, only felt is dense and coarse, and felt is thin and light. Felt is popularly called “noble felt”.

The felt hat is about a centimeter thick, but this is not scary, because the wool breathes. Felt is made by hand by felting sheep wool. But don’t worry, in order to make a bath cap with your own hands, you don’t have to bother with felting - you can easily buy it at any specialized store.

The first requirement for a bath cap is convenience. Therefore, as with any other sewing, you need to start with a pattern.

To do this you will need the following materials and tools:

• pattern paper;
• pencil;
• awl/thick needle;
• tailor's scissors;
• centimeter;
• ruler;
• thick woolen threads;
• pieces of felt.

To make a pattern, first of all, measure the head circumference of the person for whom the hat is actually intended. Based on the obtained value, calculate the size of the wedges that will make up the headdress.

The width of the wedge is a quarter of the head circumference plus one centimeter, the height is the same, only you should add not one, but two, and possibly more centimeters. It all depends on the desired height of the future hat.

Then they build on paper isosceles triangle, in which:

• base - wedge width;
• height - the height of the wedge.

The corners are slightly rounded and the resulting shape is cut out. The pattern is ready.

Important! To make the pattern last as long as possible, you can stick it on cardboard.

If the felt is thick, then the wedges made by simple manipulations are sewn end to end. The thinner one is sewn with a decorative seam on the front side. It is better to take bright threads to make the hat brighter and more extraordinary.

It is worth sewing a felt loop (or any cord) into the top of the hat - the headdress will have to be hung somehow to dry. Decorating the cap is entirely in your hands - you can trim the edge of the uniform with braid, make an applique on it from felt or any other non-fading fabric, embroider an abstract pattern or a thematic design.

Men's clothing, at the request of the future owner, can be embellished with a military slogan, while women's clothing can be embroidered with beads, sequins, and beads. But in an effort to make the hat unique and inimitable, try not to overdo it - this is not an element of a carnival costume.

Interesting! You can embroider the name or initials of the owner on the cap - this way, when visiting the bathhouse with a large group, things will not get mixed up.

Bath accessories as a reflection of one’s own self

Of course, this is not all existing bath utensils, however, we have introduced you to the secrets of choosing and making many key accessories. Everyone chooses for themselves an individual list of necessary accessories - as they say, “there is no accounting for tastes.” Some people can do without unnecessary accessories and gizmos, but for others, cool bath accessories are an integral part of a fun ritual.

You can fully enjoy bath procedures only if you have special accessories. At first glance, they seem insignificant, but it is unlikely that it will be possible to create aromatic steam, for example, without a special device - a scoop. Therefore, the selection or manufacture of this accessory should be approached carefully.

Content:

Bathhouse containers for collecting water are divided into two groups - ladles and scoops. However, between these accessories there are fundamental difference: It is customary to douse yourself with ladles, but bath ladles are used so that you can pour water on hot stones. This is how we achieve steam generation in the sauna room. Exactly like this simple thing, like a ladle, is responsible for the microclimate in the steam room. In addition, water is poured into steamers and buckets using a ladle.

Types of scoops for baths

So, if the boiler is located in a bathhouse on the left side of the firebox and has a tap, then hot water can be poured directly into a shaker or bucket. If this is not possible, then you will need a large scoop with a long vertical handle. A scoop of the same configuration is also useful for scooping cold water from a bucket. Ideally, the bathhouse should have a couple of scoops - separately for hot and cold water.

In order to pour water on the stones, you will need a scoop with a horizontal handle. In this case, the shape of the container is determined by the type of oven. If there is a closed heater in the bathhouse, then you will need a small-volume ladle with a long horizontal handle. The handle must be long enough, since even a small amount of water splashed onto the stones will immediately create hot steam that will burn your hand.

If the bathhouse is equipped with an open heater, you need to choose a scoop with a long handle and small holes in the scoop part. This way, you won’t be able to splash the water, but evenly pour it over the stones.

Scoops for the bath need to be selected different sizes. For example, scoops for supplying water to stones have a volume of 0.2-0.3 liters. And for collecting water they can have a volume of 1 liter.

Materials for making scoops for the bath

1. Tree. This is traditionally the main material that is used both for finishing bath rooms and for making accessories. The main advantage of wood is low thermal conductivity. As a rule, scoops are made of wood species such as aspen, oak, linden. Finished products are impregnated with linseed oil and wax. Wooden scoops look organic in a bathhouse; when heated, they transfer a light aroma of wood to the water. Wooden sauna scoops are usually made by professional coopers. Most often they are hollowed out from a single piece of wood.
2. Metal. Such devices are durable and practical, although not as common as wooden scoops. For the manufacture of bath accessories, stainless metals are used - steel, brass, copper. However, it is known that metal is an excellent conductor of heat. Therefore, it is not recommended to use a steel or copper sauna scoop directly in the steam room. As a last resort, such a product should be equipped with a long wooden handle.
3. Plastic. This is the most economical material used for making scoops. Modern plastics are resistant to elevated temperatures, so there are no contraindications for using such products in a bathhouse. Heat-resistant plastic is not afraid of hot steam or boiling water, however, in a steam room, a plastic product will not look aesthetically pleasing and will fall out of the general concept. Such scoops are used extremely rarely. As an option, you can find scoops on sale in which a plastic “cup” is inserted into a wooden base. This is a practical container, which, moreover, will not look ridiculous in the bathhouse.

You should not experiment with glassware in the bathhouse. The glass heats up quickly, slips, and breaks easily.

Do-it-yourself wooden scoop for a bath

The main thing is to follow the instructions:

• We prepare a log that is suitable in size. It should be well dried. We split or saw it in half into a couple of even pieces.
• On one of the halves of the log we draw the outline of the future product with a simple pencil. It will be easier to do this using a paper pattern.
• We use a hacksaw to cut out a scoop from half a log along the contour.
• Using a small hatchet, cut sharp corners and edges and form the rough shape of the future product.
• Using a hatchet, we create an angle of inclination on the side where the recess of the scoop will be located, and then at the base of the handle.
• Use a file to round off the area where the scoop meets the handle.
• We put sandpaper on a stick and “refinish” the area near the handle.
• Round and cut out the outer shape of the scoop using a coarse rasp. We use it to round the handle. After that, we sand everything with sandpaper.
• Cut a hole in the scoop using semicircular chisel. At the same time, we check the thickness so as not to make the product too thin.
• We “finish” the inside of the scoop with sandpaper. It is best to secure it on a small rounded block.

Rules for caring for wooden scoops in a bathhouse

So that the products last a long time and do not lose appearance Please note:

1. A new scoop should be poured cold water for several hours.
2. After you have used the ladle, you should wash it with soda, mustard and scald with boiling water.
3. Dry the ladles in a ventilated area or on outdoors. But just don't put them under sun rays. It is also not recommended to dry cooperage products near a hot stove.

How to make a ladle for a bath - watch the video: