Installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instructions for finishing the roof yourself. Do-it-yourself installation of metal tiles How to lay the last sheet of roofing

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Laying the roof on the roof and installation drainage system- the final stage of building a house box, depending on weather conditions. All further construction work interior spaces can be performed at any time of the year and in any weather, which greatly simplifies and speeds up the construction process. Roofing work is carried out at high altitudes, this creates additional difficulties and requires unconditional compliance with safety regulations.

The roof covering is carried out in the most difficult conditions, maximum care and caution is required. The roof is one of the most important elements of any building or structure. That's why you should put metal tiles on your roof experienced builders not only theoretically knowing all the intricacies of work production, but also having solid practical experience.

The fact is that life is much more complicated than any book; none of them can foresee all the situations that arise during roofing work. This article will give practical advice and considered detailed step by step instructions, the knowledge gained will help you independently accept right decisions to solve various problems.

Working at height is dangerous; it is highly undesirable to be distracted by faulty tools. Before starting work, you need to check their technical condition, replace cutting elements, etc. Professionals strongly advise buying a special carpenter’s belt. It has many different pockets and devices for fixing hand tools and hardware, they are always at hand, attention is not distracted by searching, and time is not wasted.

Coating technology requires preparing the following tools:

Important. It is strongly recommended that, at the same time as purchasing metal tiles, you purchase a can of the same paint. It is necessary for painting cut areas, scratches on the surface of sheets and other minor mechanical damage to the roof.

Prices for metal tiles

Metal tiles

Preparatory activities

To ensure that unforeseen situations do not arise during the work, the process does not slow down and the quality of the roof does not deteriorate, all your actions need to be thought through and divided into several stages.

The first stage is delivery of materials

It is necessary to measure the dimensions of the roof slopes, calculate the number and length of valleys and ridges, and draw a drainage diagram. Based on these data, store employees, using a special program, will calculate the optimal quantity of each element and hardware and calculate the amount. It is not necessary to immediately order the material; you can make such calculations in several trading enterprises and, based on the available information, choose the most suitable option for yourself. You should immediately agree on the delivery of the roof; the length of the car body must be no less than the length of the metal tile sheets.

Practical advice. If such a car is expensive or difficult to find, then you can nail long boards to the short body. Roofing can also be transported over short distances using such adapted vehicles.

Immediately select a site for storing materials, level its surface, and, if necessary, make a temporary canopy.

The second stage is the manufacture of fixtures

You must have at least three devices; they significantly speed up the process of installing metal tiles and increase work safety.

You need to work in shoes with soft and non-slip soles; clothing should be loose, not interfere with movements, and without hanging parts.

The third stage is checking the dimensions of the rafter system

It's not too late to fix the problems rafter system. First you need to make sure that the slopes gable roof rectangular. This is done simply, you need to measure two diagonals, if they are the same, everything is normal. If there is a difference, then the defect must be eliminated. Triangular slopes should have the shape of isosceles triangles, check the location of the vertex, its projection should be located exactly in the middle.

At the same time, you need to take measurements of the distance between the sheathing slats. These parameters depend on the type of metal tile.

Stage four - roofing work

You should only start with them careful preparation. You need to check the weather forecast and choose sunny days. This is especially important if you plan to make a warm roof. Mineral wool gets wet quickly and takes a very long time to dry. If a problem occurs with the insulation already laid between the rafters, it will have to be removed. This not only takes a long time, but can also cause mechanical damage to the insulation.

The roof is the most important part of the structure of any building. You can make your roof even more beautiful - you just need to know how to lay metal tiles correctly.

If the installation was carried out according to the instructions, then you will receive not only a beautiful roof, but also a durable one. Metal tiles are a man-made substitute for clay tiles.

Start of work on the construction of metal roofing

Advice! Before starting work, you need to prepare special clothing, tools necessary for work, and devices for lifting sheets of material to a height.

Under normal conditions, a pack of metal tile sheets can be stored for a month, regardless of whether the packaging is sealed or not.

If the material needs to be cut for a long time, then it is better to allocate some ventilated room for these purposes, place the sheets at a certain slope, this is done in order to additionally protect the material from moisture. It will evaporate or simply drain from the surface of the tiles.

When unloading or loading material, it is very important to ensure that the sheets of tiles do not rub against each other. Hold onto the joining edges to prevent damage to the integrity of the sheets.

As special clothing, you can use special shoes with soft soles, gloves and construction overalls.

Necessary tools when laying metal tiles

To measure roofing sheets, use a tape measure; to attach the metal tiles to the sheathing, use a screwdriver. When installing valleys, hip joints and other areas that need trimming, you need to use special scissors, a die-cutting machine, or any other tool that will not deform the edges of the cut.

It is strictly not recommended to use a grinder for cutting metal tiles. By using such a tool, in addition to all damage, you will lose the warranty from the manufacturer of the material.

Preparing the base

Any type of roof must begin with the installation of the base. We begin to lay the wind and waterproof membrane strictly horizontally; first we attach the film from the eaves on top of the rafter system.

The waterproofing material used should protrude 200 millimeters from the end of the roof. We fasten the material to the rafters using staples.

Laying nuances

After attaching the film with staples, we additionally construct a counter-lattice from a 25 x 40 mm board. In this way, we secure the insulation completely and ensure proper air circulation. We lay layers of waterproofing in the direction of the rafters.

It is important to lay the film with a sag of 10-20 millimeters along the edge of the rafter legs, observing an overlap of 150 millimeters at the seams between the material.

As a result, we get a layer of waterproofing that is not afraid of sudden changes in temperature.

Installation of horizontal lathing

For a roof that has a truss pitch of 900 millimeters or 1200 millimeters, boards measuring 30 x 100 mm are perfect for lathing.

With a truss pitch of 600 millimeters, a 25 x 100 board is suitable. The end sheathing batten is usually always 10 mm larger than all other sheathing boards. The installation of sheathing for sheets of metal tiles must begin from the beginning of the eaves, and then the installation of the roofing itself begins from there.

This has a very great value when creating the so-called “stepped cornice”. We calculate the pitch of the sheathing according to the wavelength of the metal tile sheets.

Cornice and end strips

After the installation of the sheathing is completed, the fastening of the end slats begins. They need to be installed with a projection 40 millimeters above the sheathing.

We also attach the eaves slats to the rafters. We fasten the cornice strip even before starting work on the installation of metal tile sheets, with an overlap of 100 millimeters, and fix it with self-tapping screws.

To lift a sheet of roofing material onto the roof, use two vertical supports, in our case boards.

Push the sheet up with both hands while your partner lifts it from the supports. Do not forget that while the sheet is rising, you should not walk near the supports.

We begin the installation of metal tile sheets

There is a special article on the material presented in this manual (see installation of metal tiles: video). In it you can find a video on how to lay metal tiles in order to see in more detail and clearly the actions described in this text.

It is worth aligning the sheets along the eaves; we begin to lay long sheets, this way it will be easier to align them at a right angle. We install the first sheet where it is convenient for you, keeping the eaves overhang of 45 millimeters.

We fasten the sheet with self-tapping screws at the eaves and ridge. We place the remaining sheets with an overlap in two waves on each previous sheet of metal tile. Thus, it is necessary to lay a certain number of sheets.

It is necessary to maintain alignment with the cornice, making a protrusion of 45 mm from the edge. We continue to install the sheets using the same principle.

We strengthen the metal tiles on the sheathing

Sheets of roofing material must be secured to the sheathing on the base of the tile wave, using self-tapping screws measuring 4.8 x 29 millimeters. We begin to fasten where the sheets intersect in an overlap, then on each of the waves of metal tiles.

On the sheet closest to the cornice, self-tapping screws are screwed in every two waves of the profile pattern. The remaining screws need to be screwed in higher in level from the bottom ones in every second picture and on every third wave to the sides.

Some styling features

The metal tile sheets should be fastened in the order that you chose from the very beginning of the roof installation. We overlap along the upper edge of the profile pattern by no less than 130 mm. You need to screw in the screws at the base of the wave to the sheathing near the edge of the profile.

Other, no less important elements of the roof

When installing a metal tile roof, you should not neglect such important parts of the roof as valleys, end strips, and ridges. These elements serve their special role in the entire overall roof structure.

The main task of all these listed elements is to protect the ventilation space under the metal tiles from snow, rainwater, falling leaves from trees and other things getting inside.

Modern manufacturers of roofing materials have developed many different solutions for effective insulation internal spaces under the roof. Correct installation All these elements are a very important part of the roof construction process.

Properly arranging the valley

We begin to lay the base of the valley. The base boards should be laid flush with the sheathing boards throughout the entire roof surface.

During the installation of the valley base, it is necessary to leave gaps of 20 millimeters between the planks for subsequent ventilation of the under-roof space. The cornice strip is measured along the length and adjusted to the length of the cornice.

It is mounted directly on the corner of the valley. Then we proceed to laying the valley itself, do not forget to clearly mark the guide lines, we will need them in the future when we lay the roofing sheets.

The minimum permissible distance between guide lines cannot exceed 200 millimeters. Next, the sealing material is adjusted to create a distance from the guide lines of 30 millimeters, and the distance between the sealing lines is 260 millimeters.

From the very beginning, it is advisable to lay sheets of full size, because at this stage of roof construction you should not use sheets that require cutting and fitting. Next, we measure the area that will then be occupied by the metal tile sheet next to the valley.

We measure the distances from the guide line to the direct overlap.

First of all, draw a guideline that will be needed when laying subsequent sheets of metal tiles on the mounted sheathing. It is better to take several measurements at once. After marking the cut location on the sheet of metal tile, cut it using scissors specially designed for this purpose.

If you notice any damage, scratches or cracks on the paint layer, then use paint that is the same color as the material to paint over visible defects.

Immediately after completing the previous step, install the metal tiles over the valley, placing the cut sheet of material along the previously marked guide lines.

We install the ridge and end strip

You need to fasten the end strip by analogy with metal tile sheets - in the direction from the eaves to the ridge, trimming the end strip occurs at the ridge.

To secure the end strip to the end board on top of the metal tile sheets, resort to using self-tapping screws measuring 4.8 by 70 and maintaining a pitch of 500 - 800 millimeters, not forgetting about the overlap.

We attach the ridge directly to the roofing sheets, using self-tapping screws to make an indentation every two waves of the tile. The ridge strips should have an overlap of 100 millimeters.

Attention!

How to lay metal tiles so as not to break the tightness of the sealing material? Screw in the screws so that they cannot reach it.

Thus, sufficient tightness of the joints is maintained, which prevents water from penetrating into the under-roof space.

Important aspects when drawing up a roofing project

Modern suppliers building materials We always supply exactly the materials that the customer requires.

Before ordering building material, it is worth drawing up a small project; if you do not have the opportunity to draw up full-fledged drawings of your project, then it is worth drawing at least an approximate diagram of your roof, producing correct measurements in several places on the roof slope, so that later there will be no problems during the installation of metal roofing.

Some companies providing construction materials supply services can come to your site themselves and professionally draw up a roofing project.

They will calculate the required amount of material, necessary tools, if you don't have one.

In this way, you can significantly minimize the loss of material during cutting, and you will simply end up with much less waste.

That's all, our instruction article has come to an end.

In the text you could find out how to properly lay metal tiles; for a clearer understanding of what is written and shown in the pictures accompanying the article, we suggest you watch the video in the article

Correctly laying metal tiles on a roof yourself is a very difficult task that requires a lot of time and physical strength. Doing everything at once is very difficult, but if you do it step by step, you can assume that it will be much easier. You should also take into account the fact that almost all work is done at height, so you should be careful and not forget about safety. So, let's figure out how to lay metal tiles correctly.

Preparatory work

The very first step to take before laying metal tiles is calculations. It is necessary to determine a sufficient amount of materials and take measurements of the roof. When measuring the area, take into account the fact that the roof may have some curves or end edges.

When you have made all the necessary measurements, you need to decide tools. If you have previously been involved in some kind of construction or repair, then you should have these tools. You will need a jigsaw and scissors to cut the metal. To properly lay metal tiles, you will also need the following tools:

• hammer;
• marker;
• Bulgarian;
• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• bars for counter-lattice;
• insulation;
• tape measure;
• steam and waterproofing film;
• self-tapping screws;
• metal tiles and other necessary materials.

Installation of rafters

Before laying the metal tiles, you need to install the rafters. At this stage you need to do the following:

Calculate pitch and section angle is not as simple as it might seem at first glance, it is a complex matter, which is why it is better to invite a professional for this matter. However, if you decide that you will do everything yourself, then take construction beams of 100*50 mm and 150*50 mm. A step between these beams of approximately 65-90 cm is allowed.

Please remember that all materials required treat with antiseptic. You also need to control the moisture content of the wood, which should be no more than 22%.

First you need to drill holes on the side of the rafters, they should be 2 cm in increments of 30 cm. This is done so that there is inter-rafter ventilation. The perimeter of the roof should be in the shape of a rectangle. The roof must have a slope of 14 degrees or more so that precipitation can drain without obstacles.

Then you should install cornice board under the gutter hook. You need to cut out grooves in the rafters and put them there. Also cut out the necessary grooves for the gutter hooks. These operations are performed in order to give the structure a more rigid appearance.

Let's start installing the front panel. It is attached to the end of the rafters using galvanized nails. This board performs a reinforcing function.

Hemming the roof overhang

Next, the roof overhang is hemmed. The cornice must be hemmed so that air can move without problems in the under-roof area, thereby ensuring ventilation. To make a binder they often use:

• soffit;
• siding;
• corrugated sheeting.

If you are hemming a cornice, then these materials will work very well. These building materials exist in various colors, so you can choose the one that will suit your needs. color scheme metal tiles. Very often, lamps are built into the frame.

Performing lathing

The next step is to do laths for hemming. Take a horizontal block and attach it to the wall, it should be at the same level as the front block. Attach cross bars between the frontal and horizontal parts. When you finish doing all this, you can say that the sheathing is complete, you just need to cover it with sheathing material. Be sure to leave gaps for ventilation. Then you need to place a grid with small cells over the gaps so that various debris and insects do not get in there.

The cornice can also be hemmed using wood. The procedure is carried out in the same way as using profiled materials. Remember about ventilation, make gaps between the bars and place a grate on top of them.

The next step is to install gutter hooks. It is best to use long hooks. They need to be fastened before laying the metal tiles. Hooks are attached to the cornice board or to the rafters. The distance between the hooks and the rafters should be the same. You need to cut grooves on the rafters, bend the hooks in them, insert self-tapping screws into the end part and onto the top of the rafters. But if it suddenly happens that the metal tiles have already been laid, then use hooks that have a short shape and attach them to the front board.

How to properly install insulation under metal tiles?

Insulation stacked with inside roofs between the rafters. It is not recommended to lay it very tightly, end to end. There needs to be some space for ventilation. To attach the insulation, use a construction stapler. By doing this, you will insulate the entire inner part roofs.

Installation of the waterproofing layer

We proceed to laying the waterproofing film. This type of film must be laid to protect the roof from moisture and wind, and the appearance of mold. To strengthen the waterproofing film, also use a construction stapler. It is rolled out horizontally, starting from the cornice and moving towards the ridge. Lay the film with an overlap of about 150 millimeters. Insulate areas where overlap occurred using adhesive tape.

This lay the film loosely without tension, it should be slightly sagging. This installation is necessary due to the fact that during the cold season the film will decrease in size and may tear.

If you use a vapor barrier film, it is advisable to lay it from the inside, from top to bottom. This is also done with an overlap of about 10 - 15 centimeters. Then those areas where there was an overlap are sealed with adhesive film and fixed with a stapler.

A vapor barrier film is laid to protect the insulation from steam.

Installation of curtain rod

Then we install the cornice strip. This must be done precisely before the metal tiles are installed. She needs press-fit, so that she doesn’t fidget when the wind blows. The scarf also needs to be overlapped, approximately 100 millimeters. Attach it to the front and cornice boards, use self-tapping screws, the pitch should be 300 millimeters.

Installation of the valley

We proceed to installing the upper and lower valley. Where the slopes meet, you need to make valleys. Before installing the bottom one, you need to make a sheathing. To do this, take boards measuring 150 * 25 mm, the distance should correspond to 30 centimeters from the axis of the joint in all directions. Then put a waterproofing film on the gutter that has formed and then strengthen the valley. Use self-tapping screws, take steps of 30 cm. Strengthen the lower valley onto the eaves block.

The upper valley is used to drain water from the joints of two slopes, from the inside. Attach with self-tapping screws.

Laying metal tiles

For high-quality installation of metal tiles, you need to follow several basic rules:

Metal tiles have long become one of the most popular roofing materials. But there is a popular myth that only trained professionals can install it. In reality, the situation is different - with due diligence, any careful person can cope with this job.

Where to start?

Installation of metal tiles begins with careful preparation for work. The first step is to calculate the exact need for material and, of course, start from the size of the roof. They need to be measured as carefully as possible. Cutting the material into the required fragments is done at an angle grinder, but without an abrasive wheel - it damages the tiles too easily. The previous roofing cake must be removed without a trace, because the rafters are not designed for two coverings at once; This is where the preparation for installation generally ends, except for tools and materials.

Tools and everything you need

To lay metal tile boards with your own hands, you need to cut them to exact dimensions using metal scissors. Taking measurements and comparing them requires using a tape measure. To climb onto the roof, it is extremely important to use a sturdy ladder or stepladder. Fastening is done using an electric drill and screwdriver. Hand tools you need are a hammer, a black stationery marker, and a wooden strip. long length. When working, be sure to use gloves and glasses made of durable plastic.

You also need to stock up on components such as:

• guide boards;
• roofing strips;
• waterproofing material;
• the tile itself;

• aero rollers;
• end and ridge strips;
• decorative overlays;
• self-tapping screws with washers;
• board 25x100 mm in the required quantity.

Types of roofing and elements

The calculation of the necessary elements for a gable roof has its own characteristics. Let's say its dimensions are 8x5 m (along the slopes). Count required number sheets are determined by dividing the length of a single slope by the width of the sheet. Here we mean the working width together with overlaps, and not the one obtained when measuring with a tape measure. It is recommended to always round the resulting non-integer value up and take into account that one of the sheets can be divided equally and used on two slopes at once.

How simpler view roof (especially the configuration of the slopes), the less tiles will go to waste. By increasing the length of the sheets, you can reduce the amount of overlap. But this results in more complicated work and more difficult transportation, for which you will have to pay a lot. Judging by the experience of most people, if the length exceeds 6 m, it is advisable to divide the sheet into parts. The overlap is at least 0.15 m if the slope is steeper than 25 degrees, and it will be at least 0.2 m if the roof is flatter.

Laying tiles on an insulated roof involves installing:

• waterproofing film;
• one or more ventilation gaps;
• vapor barrier.

Special staples are used to secure films; The moisture barrier layer itself may be permeable or impermeable to vapor. The passage of water vapor is required if there is a cold attic, but for a heated residential attic this is no longer so significant. But ventilation under the roof layer must be ensured. If it is not installed, condensation will inevitably appear below, and the safety of the house structures cannot be guaranteed. It is advisable to use, as under any layer of metal on the roof, sp

Such membranes are one-sided, and the side that is smooth to the touch should not be applied to the insulation. It is advisable to carry out work on arranging ventilation and antenna output in close conjunction with each other. Typically, the top of the antenna outputs is cut off, leaving approximately 80% of the size of the posts. The passage elements lead to the outlet of the ventilation pipe, which must be held in place with self-tapping screws. To connect the outer part of the hood with the air duct in the house, a corrugated pipe is useful; To fix this pipe in a given position and seal the connection, adhesive tape is used.

All these measures will improve the quality of the insulation, but you also need to understand its suitable type.

One of best options mineral wool is considered because it:

• does not burn;
• well absorbs steps and impacts of raindrops on the roof;
• mechanically strong;
• stably retains valuable qualities for decades;
• can be installed with your own hands without any hassle.

On the side of warm rooms, cotton insulation must be thoroughly protected with a vapor barrier layer, because their permeability to water vapor is high.

Having dealt with the insulation, you need to find out the details of the valley structure. All flanges are laid underneath with a layer of insulation, and to hold the cut sheets, you will need screws. No less significant than the valley is the passage through a metal roof steel pipes and chimneys. If the chimney goes through an insulated roof, it will be necessary to lay a strictly defined number of layers of insulation, as well as roof insulation, and create a floor sheathing.

Qualified professionals solve this problem by constructing a special box surrounding the pipe outlet to the top. The box itself must be protected from direct contact with chimney. They are used to isolate them from each other. mineral wool based on basalt or fiberglass. The geometric shape of a given unit is determined by the type of materials used. Most pipes are rectangular, round or square. Mostly circular structures are made from metal and cement.

It is forbidden to lead the pipe outside through the valley, because then it will not be possible to reliably ensure the tightness of their connection.

Any chimney pipes must be equipped with protective umbrellas.

When forming the external apron, waterproofing materials that are resistant to high temperatures are used. Ceiling openings around a steel chimney will need to be covered with a heat-insulating barrier or box; this requirement is relevant not only for wooden roofs. Instead of fluff, vermiculite or expanded clay is sometimes used to protect the main body of material from overheating. But the traditional way using basalt wool is more practical and safe.

When venting any chimneys through insulated roofs, auxiliary transverse beams are installed. When installing a pipe in an already created roof, the joints are treated with sealant or covered with adhesive tape. To collect and drain condensation, a drainage gutter is useful. You don’t have to buy it; you can do this thing yourself. Round chimneys are secured with steel brackets, and clearances are always provided for thermal expansion of the structure.

Regardless of whether the roof is equipped with a pipe or not, it is important to correctly calculate its slope. Not only the consumption of metal tiles depends on this, but also the practicality of using the roof and its properties. The slope changes - and the house’s susceptibility to precipitation and wind immediately becomes different, and the service life of the structure also changes. You can calculate the required slope by size if you use a formula of the form X = H / (1/2L). The height here is the interval between the ceiling and the ridge, that is, the height of the rafters, and length refers to the width of the house.

To convert the roof slope into percentages, all that remains is to multiply the result by 100. Elementary trigonometry (arc tangent) will help to convert the calculated figure into degrees. Using this scheme, you can find out the necessary parameters for roofs with one slope, but then you need to take into account the entire length of the span. When the slopes are unequal to each other, the distance is measured from the projection of the ridge onto the floor, and the angles are determined for each plane separately.

If the device is very complex, there are many differences and relief details, a correction is introduced regarding horizontal projections.

The smallest (11 degrees) slope can only be used in an ideal situation, when the influence of snow and rain is obviously excluded. The level of wind load transmitted to the lower parts of the house will be small, but the snow and ice will not move down on their own. Judging by the recommendations of most metal tile manufacturers, normal operation roofs in winter conditions guaranteed only with a slope of at least 14 degrees.

It is not recommended to overestimate the parameters calculated or indicated in the accompanying materials, because this will lead to an increase in material costs and an increase in windage created roof and difficulties with drainage.

But at the maximum flat roof There are also some disadvantages.

After all, a small slope does not allow water to seep through the joints between the sheets and the attachment points, so additional measures will need to be taken.

In winter, there will be more problems with clearing the roof of snow.– if you don’t do this or don’t do enough, it may fail. At small angles of inclination, the sheathing becomes heavier and it will be more difficult to attach parts to it. And one more drawback - it will not be possible to make an attic or attic of a large area.

If we look at gabled roofs, other difficulties emerge. So, at an angle of 45 degrees, the snow mass will slide down on its own. But heavy metal tiles can repeat the same maneuver and you will have to strengthen the fastening, attaching each element to the sheathing as carefully as possible. The extremes converge - both with insufficient and with excessive steepness, you will need to lay more sheets. Therefore, angles of 11 and 70 degrees are more theoretically possible than feasible in practice.

For a pitched roof, the most practical value is a corridor of 20 to 30 degrees, and for a gable roof the second figure can reach 45 degrees.

Once the outer contour and shape have been selected, it is time to deal with the rafter joints. As a mauerlat, they usually take a square-shaped coniferous wood beam, its side is 10 or 15 cm. The section of the beam should be exactly the same, this part is placed at right angles to load-bearing walls. A triangular shape is assembled from the rafter legs roof structure, which takes the brunt of the weather, so special attention must be paid to its creation. Additionally, racks are prepared, directed vertically to the structure, thanks to which the compression from the ridge is evenly distributed along the load-bearing walls.

The length of the ribs at the racks is determined not according to standard standards, but by performing special calculations.

In addition to them, they are equipped with tie-downs - these are horizontal parts of the rafter triangles that prevent the legs from moving arbitrarily under different loads. But puffs are used only when creating hanging rafters, and if they have solid support, there is no need for this element at all. Redistribution of bending loads from ridge units is carried out by struts. As for the sheathing, it is made of wooden boards and timber, placed at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the legs of the rafters, and enhances the overall rigidity of the roof.

In addition to these elements, you will need to do:

• ridge (correct joint between slopes);
• overhang - a detail that extends 40 cm beyond the contour of the load-bearing walls and prevents moisture from penetrating their surface;
• fillies - replace the overhang if the ends of the rafters do not allow it.

As for the choice of the number of slopes, it should be done not only for aesthetic reasons.

Thus, shed roofs are used only where there are no attics - on small houses, over porches and outbuildings, over utility buildings.

Tent roofs differ from ordinary gable roofs in that the gables seem to be cut at an angle to their full height. The half-hip roof is similar to a hip roof and is equipped with the same four slopes in the form of a triangle, but the gables are only partially trimmed. If the main part of the building is round, the roof is made in the form of a dome, but all these options, as well as conical, double-gable, and so on, are much less common than gable and single-pitched roofs.

Calculations

When you look at a metal tile roof, you find that it is formed by rows and waves (that is, lines directed perpendicular to the plane of the slope). The gap from one row to another is called a wave step among roofers. When the pitch on a sheet of tile is 350 mm and six waves, it is called a module. Typical offers Russian market include from 1 to 10 modules. You can choose custom sizes, but then the total cost will be much higher.

It is important to remember that for technical reasons the sheet cannot be shorter than 45 and longer than 700 cm, and all waves and joints necessarily form a monolithic ensemble along the slope.

Having counted the right number modules, it is easy to determine how much material will be spent on the roof of one roof. In addition to the main material, you will also need steel strips (each 200 cm in length) and steel sheets 200x125 cm, painted in the same way as the tiles. The minimum tilt angle is 11 degrees, and the maximum is 70 degrees. Most often, the supplied planks are designed for roofs with a slope of 30 degrees. If this value differs, they are adjusted according to individual requirements defined in the diagram.

Installation methods

Choosing the appropriate type of roof and carefully calculating its parameters is only half the solution. It is important to figure out the best way to install metal tiles. This reliable material, but if a mistake is made during installation, after a few months all the work will need to be redone. There are two time-tested installation options: one row and several rows at a time. Regardless of the chosen path, 2,3 or 4 sheets are assembled into a block, attached to each other with short self-tapping screws.

Then they are attached to the sheathing, trying to get as high as possible. Then it will be possible to twist the block around the central screws, aligning the stacking of sheets for their optimal alignment. If installation is selected in one row, the very first sheet becomes a guide for the entire strip. It is aligned along the eaves and ends of the slopes, and for greater convenience it is attached to a self-tapping screw at the ridge. The second sheet must be placed on the left overlapping the first.

Then these were connected to each other using a screw: it is inserted over the wave under all transverse folds. This method allows you to lay out blocks from a pair or two pairs of sheets. Please note: the sheet that ends each strip is not attached to the base until the next package of metal tiles is leveled. Installation in several rows is significantly different - they work from right to left, but they still level the first sheet, focusing on the cornices and ends. The second fragment of the metal tile should overlap the first, and they are attached to a common screw at the ridge in the middle of the sheet.

The joint between the parts of the coating is clamped with screws that are inserted into the top of the wave. The third sheet of the row is placed to the left of the first. To make covering the roof more convenient and easier, it is worth starting from the side where there are no bevels, cuts, or other roofing parts that would require cutting the sheet. Lay the material, moving towards the oblique ridges or towards the valley separating the slopes. The fourth sheet is superimposed on the third and they are connected with short self-tapping screws, but not screwed to the sheathing (after all, you will still need to adjust the geometry of the laid block).

Detailed operating instructions

Having briefly familiarized yourself with the construction of metal roofing and its installation, it’s time to find out how all the work should be done step by step. The design of the roofing pie differs depending on whether the roof is finished with an insulated or cold roof.

Rough finish

Not counting the cladding layer itself, the following are sequentially placed above the warm attic (from top to bottom):

• lathing;
• counter-lattice;
• water retaining membrane;
• a layer of fire-resistant insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• substrate.

For cold attics, the device is simpler - there is no need for insulation and limiting the movement of steam.

The sheathing is made from 5x5 cm timber; an alternative to it are 3.2x10 cm boards. In both options, the structures are attached to a counter-lattice beam held by the rafters. Thanks to the counter-lattice, not only does the mechanical connectivity of the parts of the cake be ensured, but also a ventilated space is formed inside it. Therefore, the risk of encountering condensation accumulation is reduced.

It is impractical to make a monolithic wooden flooring under metal tiles, so parts of the sheathing are mounted at intervals of 35-40 cm. Exact value determined by the wave pitch. Where the grooves and cornices are located, a boardwalk 14-15 cm wide is fastened. Any piece of wood must first be impregnated with antiseptics and fire protection agents. Next comes the turn of the waterproofing membrane or film, which must allow steam to pass through, not be destroyed by ultraviolet radiation, and last a long time.

Waterproofing is installed exclusively in dry weather. If it rains, it is better to postpone this matter until a more convenient moment.

Rolls are rolled out over each part of the roof, laid overlapping, moving across the rafters. Laying begins at the cornice and ends at the ridge. The lower waterproofing sheets are brought to the front boards of the eaves. The exact overlap of the film is determined by the angle of the slope, but its minimum value is at least 70 mm. To make joints more airtight, tape and dispersion materials are used.

A common mistake is to use flammable insulation, relying on special fire-retardant impregnations.

It is recommended to use only those materials that themselves do not ignite without additional processing. The thickness of the insulation is selected by carrying out a special thermal calculation based on the conditions of certain places, but even in the warmest regions of the Russian Federation it ranges from 15 cm. It is recommended to give preference to slab insulation from leading manufacturers; they are the most reliable and safe.

The slabs are laid inside the rafters in a spacer; they are fixed without additional fasteners, because such structures are elastic. The choice of vapor barrier is also responsible, and the main attention is paid to the density and level of permeability to water vapor. The internal cladding is made from boards or gypsum boards; this work begins after the installation of other layers is completed.

The load from the roof itself, accumulating snow and moving people is at least 200 kg per 1 sq. m. This circumstance must be taken into account when designing and constructing rafters.

Both cold and warm metal tile roofs are equipped with sound-proofing material - it is placed on the sheathing either as a continuous layer, or in places where the facing covering will be attached.

If the roof slope is from 14 to 20 degrees, slats can be installed relatively rarely. And when a thin steel profiled sheet is placed on top, a continuous sheathing of edged boards is prepared. Their minimum thickness is 3.2 cm, and the installation step is reduced to 1 cm. Nail the slats for the counter-lattice to rafter legs required using galvanized nails. They are driven in every 30 cm. When preparing waterproofing, you need to use membranes that effectively suppress the occurrence of condensation, are fire-safe and resistant to ultraviolet rays.

Construction staplers are used to attach water-protective membranes to the rafter legs. Layers of sheathing and counter-lattice are placed above the waterproofing. From the fibrous thermal insulation materials to the waterproofing layer, a gap should be left filled only with air. To form it, nails are driven into the edge of the rafters 1 cm from the waterproofing and a mesh is stretched, which is best made from cord. Helping the walls to withstand the weight of the roof and additional load (wind, snow, ice) can concrete screed. When the upper floor is large, it is done along all load-bearing walls, not limited only to external planes.

Additional strengthening of structures is achieved through concrete columns extending from the foundation, as well as through supports for beams holding the rafters.

The planes of the slopes are brought out perfectly straight, and if defects are found in them, they should be cut off with a plane. Heavily damaged elements must be replaced. When working with rafters, it is necessary to check their geometry after each manipulation (especially when the diagonal of the slope is displayed) building level. Having noticed a distortion, it is removed using additional elements.

It happens that the slope (between the ridge beam and the cornice) is more than 6 m. In such cases, the sheets are divided into fragments and overlapped. The previous covering from the rafters is completely removed, and after dismantling is completed, the rafters and sheathing themselves are checked very carefully to ensure that everything is intact.

In preparation for any roofing work and during the process of laying out the metal tiles, you cannot cover the façade, close the pediment, or perform other work.

Such “saving of time” is irrational and only results in additional losses.

The gap between the sheathing beams should be made in accordance with the manufacturers' instructions, but not less than 0.6 and no more than 0.9 m. Before work, carefully evaluate the match between the boards or beams, because blocks differing in size and configuration can lead to damage to the roof covering . When filling the cornice, you should place the outermost strip of boards so that it does not protrude beyond it. Parts thinner than 150 mm cannot be used to ensure the strength of the rafters and to compensate for uneven planes. The membrane film placed on top of the sheathing cannot be attached using nails or self-tapping screws; only adhesive tape is used.

Having finished with cornice strips, are engaged in drainage. It is best to purchase a dedicated system from a metal roofing supplier to avoid compatibility issues. The first step during installation is to secure the brackets that hold the gutters. They are also installing ventilation grilles on the eaves. Once this is done, the preparatory stage of work can be safely considered completed.

Laying the final material

The technology for attaching metal tiles is much simpler than any preparatory work. But it also has its own important subtleties and nuances. Work from the bottom corners of each slope. If during the installation process there is a need to adjust the sheets, they are simply cut to the required size.

The joint between the sheets should be opposite the line along which the water will flow. If you do otherwise, rain streams will flow inside.

The first row of covering is laid, carefully watching the protrusions - it should extend 4 cm further than the cornice. There is no need to accurately measure this distance; an error of a few millimeters will not worsen anything. Subsequent sheets are placed easier and faster, but you will have to concentrate again when it comes to the fragments placed on the ridge. It must be remembered that the installation of metal tiles, and preparatory work are carried out at heights, and this places special demands on the organization of work.

It is necessary to use special belts and safety ropes. Before climbing onto the roof, wear shoes with textured rubber soles.

• at dusk and in the dark (even with good electric lighting);
• during rain and until the surface dries;
• in the fog;
• with winds stronger than 15 m/s (even if these are isolated gusts).

You need to lift up exactly as much material and tools as you need for work in the next 1-2 hours.

It's better to spend more time going up and down than to run into problems with cluttered space. Of course, you should never work on an icy roof. Garbage, defective and damaged parts of material, dismantled structures, packaging and everything else go down from the roof only using stairs. It is unacceptable to throw them down.

The working tool should be placed where it will not fall. It is very important to ensure that the tools themselves and the extended wires (cables) do not interfere with anyone or get underfoot. Any mechanisms, especially electrical ones, are checked in advance on the ground, not only before the start of work as a whole, but also at the beginning of each working day. They also carefully check the integrity and serviceability of the insulation. Before lifting large sheets up, you need to make sure there is no strong wind, otherwise they may be damaged.

All work with metal tiles, even unpacking, must be done with gloves and special clothing, because the edges of any sheet of metal tiles are extremely sharp and sometimes jagged.

Any instruction for professional builders invariably reminds that this material is slippery, and you should walk on it extremely carefully, only with a safety belt. If metal tiles are lifted using special mechanisms, it is recommended to check their serviceability before each start-up. You cannot walk or stand under the lifting point and within a certain radius from it (than stronger wind within acceptable limits, the larger this radius). When unloading packages, they are always lifted, but not pulled out of the stack.

A typical technological map requires not to lift a long shaped sheet by the edges; they should only be held from the sides. If dirt is found on the metal tiles, they must be removed using household detergents, and the most gentle ones at that. Strong mixtures may damage the coating. It is not always possible to use all the delivered sheets in one day, so you need to know how their storage is organized. Metal tiles cannot be left in their factory tight packaging; they are placed on inclined bars, as this allows raindrops to escape and evaporate.

Metal tiles covered with plastic should be stored (both in packaging and without it) for a maximum of 14 days. If you need to leave it for a longer time, store the material in the same way as the galvanized type.

Step-by-step instructions for laying sheets of material involve preliminary preparation:

• additional support boards;
• bars for through output (fire or inspection hatch);
• roof stairs;
• wall stairs partially leading to the roof;
• snow catchers;
• roof bridges.

It is recommended to cut metal tiles to the required size using saws and metal scissors, hand-held electric saws with teeth made of hard alloys. A grinder with abrasive discs is not only harmful when cutting material; it cannot be used closer than 10 m from the sheet, since flying sparks can damage the tiles. When planning to attach the coating, its surface must be freed from chips, fasteners and rivets. The installed metal tiles are painted with paints suitable for metal at the eaves themselves. The same paints are applied to the edges of the edges and to any random scratches.

A special feature of 1/1025 format sheets is that some of them are equipped with an auxiliary transverse bend, which simplifies installation and blocks the spreading of the material. On roofs of complex configurations, such a coating can only be laid after careful measurements, and the required length of the sheets must be calculated by professionals.

Working for hip roof, cut blocks cannot be placed on opposite slopes, since they have a transverse pattern.

If you have to step on laid sheets of metal tiles, it is advisable to walk on the places where the sheathing is installed.

It is impossible to properly cover the roof with this material unless you check whether the transverse folds are properly joined after installing each block.

• 0.48x5;
• 0.48x6.5;
• 0.48x8 cm.

A special role belongs to screws with dimensions of 4.8x28 mm. They are necessary to attach the covering in the lower parts of the waves, at the eaves, in overlaps. They are also recommended to secure the slats. Not all fasteners certain size suitable for work, in this case it is recommended to use screws with a sealing layer of EPDM rubber. Please note: it is absolutely wrong to use nails, since they are less reliable than screws.

A big mistake is to tighten the fasteners all the way - in this case, the surface may become covered with dents.

Driving screws by hand is impractical and tedious. An electric drill, which has smooth speed adjustment functions and can operate in reverse mode, helps to simplify the work. Shaped sheets lead at a slope of 1:4, and trapezoidal ones must be installed at an angle of 1:7. Some manufacturers refuse responsibility if the profile is placed on a roof with a lesser slope. For a classic-type seam roof, you need to make a slope of at least 1:12.

The gable strips are attached from the sides to the gable boards, and at the top they are attached to the metal tiles. The fastenings are placed at a distance of 80 cm from each other, the mutual overlap of the pediment planks is 10 cm. Before installing the ridge shaped strip, it is necessary to secure the end covers with rivets. The overlap is 13 cm, for smooth structures - 3 cm less. From two to five ridge strips tied into a single block using screws and placed along the ridge.

Next, the joints between the plank and the profile sheet are sealed. The ridge elements themselves are pierced with screws through the seals to the sheets along the top of the waves (they go through one wave). The ridge adjacent to the slope is best done this way: the end is cut off to fit the slope and mounted tightly under the sheet.

To seal shaped ridge elements, it is recommended to use a self-adhesive joint of the “Top-Roll” type.

There is nothing complicated in all this work. You just need to be careful and careful.

Even with a complete understanding of standard operating technology, you can make serious mistakes or miss an opportunity to reduce costs and simplify work.

According to experts, high-quality ventilation of the space under a metal roof meets three requirements:

• a gap is ensured from the waterproofing to the metal itself;
• air flows freely through the cornice;
• nothing prevents him from passing through the area under the ridge.

Only by fulfilling these conditions can stable insulation of the attic or attic be guaranteed.

Before work, you should check the timber and boards. It should not show signs of mechanical destruction or exposure to insects.

You should not take material with deep cracks or poorly dried wood. All nails must be made of stainless steel grades. The required length is determined by doubling the thickness of the sheathing.

If you have to join the boards together, you need to bring the border to the rafters whenever possible.

Adjacent horizontal rows are placed so that the joints are mutually offset. Self-tapping screws, which are used to fasten sheets of metal tiles, are installed at least 6-8 pieces per 1 square meter. m, because the coating is heavy and must be thoroughly pressed against the support. Making a tiled roof for warm attic, it is advisable to install living room windows on a frame held by rafter beams. If the windows are very large, it is better to attach them directly to the rafters.

Waterproofing membranes with increased diffusion are placed on the insulation without gaps, and the anti-condensation film should be placed after a certain interval. Between two adjacent rafters, the film can sag by a maximum of 20 mm (with a maximum distance of 120 cm). If the sheathing is made of wood, you need to place an anti-condensation film under the counter-lattice. This will optimize ventilation between the covering sheet and the film. When a drain is created, the installation of the cornice is preceded by the placement of gutter holders. And the cornice itself should end at the level of a third of the gutter coming from the wall.

Connect the cornice to the sheathing using self-drilling flat top screws. You need to join two eaves with an overlap of 5-10 cm. You can hem the eaves overhangs of the roof itself with corrugated sheets, metal siding or facade panels.

It is strictly forbidden to attach metal tiles to the upper deflections of the waves, and also to use a hammer to secure screws.

The lower valley is fastened with clamps, and at least 10 cm should remain from the end of the sheet to the lowest point of the valley.

The upper valley is installed after the laying of the metal tiles is completed. To do this, use roofing screws, piercing into the tops of the waves in increments of 20... 30 cm. In this case, it is unacceptable to disturb the lower valley. When attaching the gables, they try to cover the upper deflections of the waves. The ridge and metal tiles are separated using polyurethane foam, and the ends of the ridge element must be covered with a decorative cap. The joints must be treated with sealants.

Wall profiles are necessarily used where the roof fits not only the walls, but also various pipes and dormer windows.

They are applied to metal tiles and attached to problematic elements. At the eaves level, after the second strip of sheathing, various fences are installed. Their type and specific design are determined by the slope of the roof and the type of tile. For connections, it is recommended to use self-drilling bolts with an external zinc layer (5.5x25 mm for metal and 5.5x60 for wood).

It is unacceptable to attach the fence to only one metal tile.

To connect the enclosing structures together, bolts are used. Snow-retaining elements are placed in the deflection of the wave; they are attached through the tiles and the sealing gasket to the sheathing itself. In the places provided for this, sheathing profiles are made in advance in increments of 12 cm (it is measured along the axes of the profiles).

Snow guards should be mounted above the fence, and if the slope is longer than 10 m, it is advisable to use pairs of them.

You can watch the installation process of metal tiles in the video below.

Installation of a metal tile roof is best done by a team of three to four people. On preparatory stage Before directly laying sheets of metal tiles, care should be taken to resolve the following issues:

1. Place for storing sheets.

As a rule, sheets of metal tiles are placed on the ground in the form of a stack laid wooden slats. It is not recommended to lay sheets one on top of the other without any spacer, since this will protective coating may be damaged. If the roof has a large area or is too high, or if there are not enough installers, a rack is built on the roof for temporary storage of roofing sheets.

2. Installation of guides for delivering sheets to the top.

The metal tile sheets are pulled to the installation site along pre-installed guides (joists). Lags can serve as:

• wooden beams;
• metal pipes;
• steel corner.

3. Rules for moving on the roof.

When laying metal tiles, installers have to walk on it. To avoid damage to the roof, this should be done in shoes with soft soles, placing your feet only in those places where the sheathing is located. When walking along the slope, the foot should be placed on the deflection of the wave, when moving across - on the profile fold.

Laying metal tiles

1. Installation of metal tiles begins from the place where the roof does not form cuts or bevels and where the sheet can be laid entirely, without cutting.

2. There is no difference between the installation directions from right to left and left to right, the installer can choose any option according to his preferences. The main rule: the capillary groove of each sheet must be covered by the adjacent sheet. The capillary groove serves to drain water that flows between the sheets of tiles in the overlap area during rain due to the capillary effect. Depending on the manufacturer, it may be located on the right or left side of the sheet. If the capillary groove is located on the left, then when the installation direction is from right to left, each subsequent sheet covers the previous one with an overlap in one wave; when moving from left to right, each subsequent sheet is placed under the previous one with the same overlap. If the capillary groove is located on right side, the sheets are laid in reverse: in the first case, the sheet is placed, in the second, it is applied.

3. The guideline for laying metal tiles is the cornice line. The sheets must hang over it strictly at a distance of 50 mm.

4. Sheets are laid in blocks in the following order:

A) The first sheet after laying is screwed to the sheathing with one self-tapping screw located in the center.

C) The block thus obtained is finally aligned along the eaves line, after which all sheets, except the last one, are completely screwed to the sheathing.

D) The last sheet is screwed to the sheathing elements only after the next block has been assembled and leveled.

5. When laying the roof on triangular slopes, the first sheet is laid so that its axis coincides with the axis of the slope.

6. It is not allowed to use an angle grinder (grinder) to cut sheets, since such a tool burns through their protective coating. In addition, it suffers from sticking chips. Metal tiles should be cut with a hacksaw or scissors (manual or electric cutting).

7. When attaching the sheet, the screws are screwed into the depression between the crests of the waves, while the rubber gasket should be only slightly pressed.

8. Self-tapping screws securing the sheets of the bottom row to the first beam of the sheathing are screwed over the step through one wave.

9. Metal tiles are attached to the other sheathing bars from below, as close as possible to the step.

10. On the side where the end board is placed, self-tapping screws are screwed into each wave.

11. Roofing sheets are screwed to each batten of the sheathing.

12. In the vertical overlap area, the sheets are fastened to each other with 5.5x19 self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the decline of the wave.

13. For one sq. m of metal roofing on average use 6-8 roofing screws. When installing accessories, the consumption is 3 screws per linear meter on each side.

14. When attaching accessories, screw the fasteners into each transverse wave in increments of 35 cm or at the crest of every second longitudinal wave.

15. Damaged areas of the polymer coating of metal tiles should be covered with paint. Often it is provided free of charge by the manufacturer, otherwise you should take care of purchasing it in advance.

Detailed video instructions for laying metal tiles on the roof