Is it possible to plant different varieties of raspberries nearby? How to plant and care for raspberries (tips for beginners)

The raspberry, bright and aromatic, attracts attention with its high taste and healing properties. It is useful for adults and children; its systematic use enriches the body with vitamins and microelements, even a couple of spoons raspberry jam per day throughout the winter can prevent the occurrence colds or infection with viral infections. Raspberries are found in almost every garden suburban area, attractive to gardeners is its unpretentiousness, ability to produce crops in the year of planting, and bear fruit until late autumn.

Planting raspberries - how to choose the right site

To determine best place To plant raspberries, you can observe where they grow in the wild. These are forest clearings and open forests, edges, i.e. The places are well lit; in winter, snow drifts accumulate on them, providing excellent wintering for plants. Similar conditions should be created for the raspberries that will be planted in the garden.

The best option would be to plant bushes compactly in a corner of the garden, on an area protected from strong winds, with fairly good sunlight. When choosing a location, you should also focus on areas with deep burial (more than 1.5 m) groundwater- raspberries will not tolerate waterlogged soil.

It will not be possible to get a good result even if the area of ​​the site is swampy or saline. Poor fruiting will occur on heavy clay soils. You can determine in advance the suitability of a site for planting raspberries by how any of them grow on it. fruit trees, their normal development is a guarantee that the raspberry bushes will also be comfortable.

It is not recommended to plant raspberries on the southern slopes of the hills - such places warm up well during thaws in winter, long thaws and warming up of the roots help reduce the winter hardiness of the plant, with the return of frost, especially if the temperature drops below -20 C, heated plants can suffer greatly - more frostbite occurs parts of shoots.

Beginner gardeners should take into account that with frequent watering with small amounts of water, the plants will form surface roots; with rare and abundant watering, the part of the root system located in the deep layers of the soil will be more actively formed.

To prepare the area for planting you will need:

• remove all weeds from it along with rhizomes,
• apply organic and mineral fertilizers,
• dig up the entire area,
• destroy the beetle larvae found in the soil.

Experienced gardeners advise using activated compost as organic fertilizer.

The hole in which the bush will be planted should have a diameter of about 30 cm and a depth of 30-35 cm. Before planting, it is filled with a mixture of humus, manure, rotten straw and foliage by about half. If several bushes are unlikely to be planted, then you can dig not individual holes, but a trench and add fertilizer to it. This method of planting is even more effective - raspberry roots grow quickly and can occupy quite a large space - within a radius of about 2 m around the bush, it would be nice if most of it is fertilized.

If the soil is sandy and very poor, then it is recommended to dig a ditch half a meter wide and the same depth, fill it with a mixture of soil with nutritional components: humus, the remains of last year’s foliage, twigs, it will be able to provide more complete nutrition to the plants through the root system developing in its thickness. The bottom of the ditch, to retain moisture, can be covered with a 2-3 cm layer of red clay.

If the acidity is high, up to 200 grams of fluff lime per 1 sq. m of raspberry tree area can be added to the soil when digging. Wood ash added to the soil will also be useful.

It is best to plant raspberries in the fall, in late September - early October. In this case, it will have time to take root well, and in early spring it will be ready for full development and active growth. If planting raspberries is planned for spring, then this should be done earlier, when the condition of the thawed soil allows.

The recommended row spacing, regardless of whether the bushes are planted singly or in a common trench, should be about one and a half meters, the distance between the bushes is about 0.5-0.7 m. It is recommended to deepen the seedling into the ground about 5-7 cm deeper than he grew up in the previous place. This point is not difficult to determine; the part of the stem located above the ground surface has a different color and the border is visible quite clearly.

Before planting, the roots of each seedling are straightened, carefully placed in a moistened hole, covered with soil, and trampled down. Then it’s time to water, it is recommended to pour at least 10 liters of water under each bush. After the water is absorbed, the ground should be covered with a layer of mulch, which can be used as fallen pine needles, straw, peat or humus.

Mulch will be effective if its layer is about 6-8 cm thick. It is advisable to lay a 10 cm layer of mulch between rows - this will allow:

• maintain soil looseness throughout this season,
• prevent active evaporation of moisture,
• inhibit the emergence and growth of weeds.

Planted bushes should be pruned to 25-30 cm. It is impossible to cut off shoots completely - substances accumulated by the plant that promote the growth of the root system are stored in their lower part, in addition, low pruning can inhibit the appearance of replacement shoots, which will ultimately lead to the death of the plant.

When planting raspberries in autumn, the plants are earthed up, and the stem is covered at least 10 cm deep. This simple procedure will help preserve all the lower buds.

When and how to prune raspberries

Raspberry fruiting begins on two-year-old shoots: the shoots grow actively in the first year, and flower buds are laid in the fall. At the end of fruiting, they begin to dry out. Drying shoots should be removed not seasonally, but as they appear. Cleaning the bushes in summer will ensure more active growth of young shoots, which are called replacement shoots.

With the onset of spring, one-year-old shoots will need to be cut by 15-20 cm. In this case, they are guided by the location of the first large bud from above. Shortening the shoots causes more active branching and promotes the formation of larger berries. The second positive point is that shortening the branches makes them more stable and they will not bend to the ground under the weight of the filling fruits.

Shoots that have overwintered but are damaged and weak must be completely removed in the spring. In the fall, all fruit-bearing shoots must be completely removed.

What to consider when choosing a method for growing raspberries

Today there are four methods of growing raspberries:

• tape, when the width of the plantings reaches 30-40 cm,
• nesting, with placement in rows of single bushes,
• on trellises,
• without the use of shoot garters.

Tape option cultivation involves the formation of a wide strip of shoots, formed by the root shoots of the uterine bushes. Depending on the branching activity of the shoots and height, their number is regulated: it is desirable that the remaining number of shoots makes it possible to obtain the maximum number of fruits, while allowing each branch to receive enough sunlight and warmth.

Since modern raspberry varieties have significant differences in height fruit branches, their number and branching, then the formation of ribbons from shoots should be approached taking into account the characteristics of each variety.

Nesting method usually used if the beds are very small. A separate peg is used to tie each bush. The recommended distance between bushes is one and a half meters, but it can increase depending on the length of the shoots that the planted variety produces. It is not difficult to care for such plantings; problems may arise if there is heavy rain during the fruiting period - the bushes are poorly ventilated and the berries inside them may become affected by mold.

When growing raspberries on trellises with a narrow ribbon seedlings are planted in a row at a given distance, and a certain distance between rows is also maintained. The method will require installing supports along each row and making a trellis, which is usually a well-tensioned metal wire.

Care consists of:

• in the uniform distribution of replacement shoots along the wire,
• removing fruit-bearing branches at the level of the ground surface - it will no longer be possible to get berries from them, but they will thicken the bush and take away some of its nutrients,
• removing excess root growth using a sharp shovel or pruning shears - a large amount of it can significantly reduce the yield.

Growing raspberries is the least effective in practice. without garter:

• shoots form dense thickets,
• branches with the harvest lie on the ground, thereby causing damage to the berries,
• strong shading reduces the possibility of budding on shoots.

If, when growing the same large-fruited variety on trellises, you can get about 200 kg of berries, then when you tie it to stakes, the yield will decrease by about 3 times, and when grown without a tie, by 6 times.

Growing raspberries - secrets from experienced gardeners that will help you get high yields

Gardeners who have recently started growing raspberries often complain about failures:

• berries are damaged by insects,
• bushes grow poorly, or vice versa,
• The shoots grow extremely actively, but do not bear fruit.

In this case, the variety is usually blamed, and attempts are made to replace the plants with new ones. But before taking radical measures, you should analyze the reason; perhaps it’s not the variety at all, but the proper care?

caring for raspberries - timing of fertilizing and watering

To ensure the active development and fruiting of the raspberry bush, it should be provided with nutrients and water. Therefore, a mandatory procedure should be the introduction of a sufficient amount of organic and mineral fertilizers into the soil. The main ones are potassium and nitrogen; phosphorus should not exceed 1/3 of the added potassium and nitrogen. Feeding with slurry can be done:

• the first - during the period of bud break,
• the second - in 10 days,
• the third - after another 2 weeks.

After fruiting, the plant will also need to replenish nutrients. During this period, you can use liquid fertilizers with the following composition:

• potassium sulfate - 15 g,
• double superphosphate - 30 g,
• water - 10 l.

As a top dressing, you can use a solution of nitroammophoska, mullein, diluted in a ratio of 1:6, chicken manure, diluted 1:12. First, the plant is watered abundantly, then nutrient mixtures are added, about 2 liters for each bush.

For normal fruiting during the season, you will need to perform 3-4 fertilizing and 6-7 full waterings. Watering should be carried out throughout the season, in a timely manner, in quantities that allow the soil to be kept moist.

It is also useful to add wood ash obtained from deciduous trees in an amount of 200 grams per 1 sq.m.

growing raspberries - how to loosen the soil correctly

Loosening the beds with the onset of the first spring after planting is carried out at the most early dates- so as not to harm the emerging root shoots. The depth of loosening in rows should be about 6-8 cm, in row spacing - up to 12 cm. Weeding can be repeated several times during the summer, as a crust forms after watering and germination weeds, but the maximum loosening depth should not exceed 5 cm.

Before wintering, the area is dug up - in rows to a depth of 10 cm, in row spacing - to 15 cm. Care must be taken that the skeletal roots of plants are not damaged during digging; it is best to dig not with a shovel, but with a pitchfork. Throughout the season, shoots should be constantly removed, leaving only planted bushes. Thickening of planting also leads to crushing of fruits, because shoots formed from the roots can take up to 50% of nutrients and moisture from plants.

The best option is to leave about 7 replacement shoots for each bush - this will allow you to get fairly large berries during each harvest.

Experts say that raspberry bushes are not prone to complete degeneration, but the root buds on them can mutate, usually in the worst side. You can notice this negative phenomenon during flowering - the sepals will not be elongated. Advice - such bushes should be completely removed - large-fruited varieties should initially have elongated sepals. For remontant raspberry varieties, this change is not significant.

wintering features

Since it is almost impossible to predict how cold the winter will be, when growing raspberries in conditions middle zone will need to take care of her reliable protection from frostbite.

Such a simple technique as bending the shoots to the ground and securing them above the ground surface, using improvised means (boards, logs, metal staples) will allow you to special problems Cover the raspberry field with a layer of snow half a meter thick. Bushes prepared in this way are practically not susceptible to frostbite; in practice, it has been proven that they can withstand even the harsh Siberian winters. Raspberries should be opened when the threat of late frost has passed.

harvesting

The berries of the first raspberry harvest begin to ripen at the end of June.

This happens over the course of a month. Since raspberries are distinguished by very delicate fruits not intended for long-term storage, then the berries should be harvested systematically, as they ripen, without keeping them on the stems.

Raspberry breeding

If you want to breed new varieties of raspberries, you will have to buy seedlings. It is best to contact specialized nurseries - the planting material there is of fairly high quality.

If the plot is already grown suitable varieties, then you can use the vegetative propagation method and use bushes formed from root shoots. In addition, you can do the usual division of the bush into several parts, but for this you should choose the most powerful bushes. Shoots for transplantation should be selected that have a shoot thickness of more than 1 cm and a sponge-like, dense root system.

The productive period of raspberry bushes ranges from 12 to 20 years, while the characteristics of the raspberry variety, proper care, frost resistance and quality of soil cultivation play a role.

Raspberry is a very useful plant that can be seen on almost every garden plot. This is one of the most delicious berries our gardens. But who among us hasn’t noticed worms on the bushes, or some gnarled, hardened berries? Gardeners always have a lot of questions about how to grow tasty and sweet raspberries. We have selected the most frequently asked questions and tried to answer briefly.

How to choose the best place to plant raspberries?

Those gardeners who do the right thing are those who set aside a corner of the garden for it on their site or plant it along the hedge. This makes it easier to care for her. But still, a corner of the garden is preferable, since it is there that a large amount of snow accumulates during the winter.

What soil is best for raspberries?

Fertile, moist soils are best for growing. The best for it are sandy-clayey, alluvial-meadow, which are more saturated nutrients than others. Heavy ones are unacceptable to her clay soils and soils oversaturated with limestone.

How to prepare the soil for planting raspberries?

5-8 kg of manure, 70-80 g of superphosphate, 20-25 g of potassium sulfate are added to the area intended for planting - this is based on 1 square meter. m. Scatter fertilizers evenly over the entire area of ​​the site, dig it deeply.

Is it necessary to plant several varieties of raspberries nearby for better pollination?

Most raspberry varieties are self-fertile, so there is no particular need to plant pollinating varieties nearby. Of course, you can plant several varieties next to each other, but this does not affect pollination.

When to plant raspberries?

The best time of year for planting or transplanting seedlings is autumn - late August - September. In spring it can be planted only as an exception.

How to plant raspberry seedlings correctly?

Holes for planting raspberries usually have dimensions of 30x30x30 cm. The seedlings are placed so that after filling with soil they are 6-7 cm below the surface of the earth. The roots must be carefully straightened and covered. The soil around the seedling is compacted. For better conditions When watering, the soil is raked away from the trunk - a small depression is made so that the water does not spread. After watering, the soil around the seedlings is mulched with peat, hay, straw, fallen leaves, and other mulch.

Do I need to prune raspberries after planting?

Need to. If you do not prune, then, firstly, it will give a small harvest, secondly, new young shoots will not form, which will produce a harvest next year, and thirdly, pruned plants take root better. Therefore, immediately after planting, the stems are cut with pruning shears, leaving stumps no more than 20-25 cm in height.

At what distance from each other should I plant raspberry seedlings?

A distance of 1-1.2 m should be left between rows, and 50-60 cm between seedlings in a row.

How to propagate raspberries?

The main methods of propagation are propagation by seeds and vegetative methods. Propagation by seeds is practically not used in amateur gardening. Typically, plants grown in this way rarely take on valuable qualities from the original parent varieties. Vegetative method involves using young shoots from the roots (root suckers) or dividing the bush for propagation. This is the cheapest quick way.

How, when and why to care for raspberry plantings?

If you do not take care of your raspberry plantings, they will become overgrown with weeds, which greatly deplete the bushes. Few young shoots are formed, they are weak. The berries become small, their taste deteriorates, and the yield decreases.

Autumn digging of row spacing is required. First, excess young shoots are removed, and then the soil is dug up between the rows.

In the spring, before the buds open (late March-April), be sure to loosen the soil in the raspberry patch. In the center between the rows it is deeper - 10-15 cm, and next to the plants - shallow - 5-7 cm, so as not to damage the root system.

From the beginning of the appearance of leaves and before picking the berries, they loosen it two more times.

After harvesting, they loosen it again, and then do not touch the row spacing until autumn - the annual shoots should ripen well.

How, when to water and how much water do raspberries need when watering?

Raspberries love watering. The most moisture is required when it blooms, when the berries set and ripen - from May to August. The first time (of course, if there is no rain) is watered before flowering (end of April), the second time - at the end of May. Be sure to water 1-2 times when the berries are filled. The last time is watered after harvesting.

Watering rate is 1-2 buckets of water for one plant. It is most convenient to water through furrows, which are made on both sides of the row at a distance of 20-25 cm from the bushes.

How to trim raspberries?

Immediately after planting, the raspberry stems are cut off, leaving stumps 20-25 cm high. In the second year, 2-3 young shoots are left - the rest are cut to the ground with pruning shears, leaving no stumps.

As soon as the entire harvest is harvested, all two-year-old shoots that had berries are cut out.

In the spring, it is also recommended to prune, since after winter it is usually visible which shoots are weak and which were sick. Young shoots are cut out if there are many of them or they grow too often. No more than 10-12 young shoots are left per bush.

How to rejuvenate raspberry bushes?

In old bushes the number of young shoots usually decreases. Sooner or later, the yield of such bushes decreases. Experienced gardeners know that it is possible to restore productivity by removing the old rhizome. In this case, the growth of young shoots increases. In parallel with the removal of old rhizomes, increased doses of organic and mineral fertilizers are applied to the raspberries. Such rejuvenation should be carried out every 5-6 years.

How and with what do you fertilize raspberries?

It is best for raspberries to alternate the application of organic and mineral fertilizers. The dosage is as follows - 1.5-3 kg of manure + 1 tablespoon (30 g) superphosphate + 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate (30 g) per 1 sq. m. Organic matter (manure) is added in the fall during deep digging of row spacing. Superphosphate is applied in the spring before buds open during the first loosening. Potassium sulfate - at the end of flowering. Fertilizers are evenly distributed over the surface of the soil, dug or loosened.

How long, how many years can raspberries grow in one place?

At good care you can grow it for 12-15 years without changing the planting location.

What are the fungal diseases of raspberries, how to fight them?

Blue-violet spotting (didimela)

Signs: blue-violet spots appear on the stems at the point of attachment to the cuttings - the leaves fall off, but the cuttings remain and droop. The culprit of the disease is fungal spores that overwinter on young raspberry shoots.

Control measures: remove, burn diseased shoots; spray with copper-containing preparations (chorus, Bordeaux mixture, HOM, others).

Drying of shoots (koniothyrium)

This fungal disease manifests itself in drying of the shoots, sometimes together with the berries.

Control measures: cut out, burn affected shoots; spraying with copper-containing preparations.

Anthracnose

Fungal spores infect shoots, berries, leaves, and spots with a purple border appear on them.

Control measures: removal, burning of affected shoots along with leaves and berries; Spraying in late autumn, summer (2-3 times every 2 weeks) with copper-containing preparations that prevent the reproduction and development of the fungus.

Raspberry leaf rust

With this disease, light yellow spots appear on the upper part of the leaves, a little later in the same places, but orange-yellow pimples are visible at the bottom of the leaf, which over time acquire a dark rusty color - these are fungal spores. The fungus that causes the disease overwinters on fallen leaves.

Control measures: spraying fallen leaves with copper-containing preparations. In the spring, the first spraying is required after the leaves bloom, and again after two weeks.

Raspberry leaf spot

Signs of the disease: white and dirty spots appear on the leaves. The fungal spores overwinter on fallen leaves.

Control measures: as soon as the first manifestations of the disease are noticed, spray with copper-containing preparations; It is recommended to burn fallen leaves.

What are the viral diseases of raspberries, how to fight them?

Of the viral diseases, the most famous are: yellow mosaic, witch's broom, yellow leaf veining, viral (infectious) chlorosis.

Witch's broom (growth, bushiness)

When a witch's broom disease occurs, numerous thin, shortened shoots form on the raspberry shoots - they become like a broom. Much fewer berries are produced.

Yellow mosaic

When yellow mosaic disease occurs, pale green spots first appear on raspberry leaves, which then turn yellow.

Yellow leaf veining

When leaves have yellow venation, yellow stripes appear along the veins.

Infectious (viral chlorosis)

With infectious (viral) chlorosis, by mid-summer the leaves turn yellow, first along the veins, and then the entire leaf turns yellow, like in autumn.

All these diseases are viral in nature.

Control measures: removal of diseased bushes by the roots; treatment with drugs that destroy pests - aphids, leafhoppers, and others that are carriers of pathogenic viruses, for example, Actellik, Iskra, Karbofos, Kemifos, and others.

How to prevent the appearance of worms in raspberries?

The culprit for the appearance of worms in berries is the raspberry beetle. It overwinters in the ground as an adult, appears in the spring, eats buds and flowers. Female raspberry beetles lay eggs in buds, flower buds, and green raspberries. Beetle larvae (worms) live in the berries, feed on them, and go into the soil to pupate. This cycle repeats once a year.

Control measures: dig up the soil in the fall, i.e. disturb the wintering site of the raspberry beetle. And in the spring, spray the bushes before the leaves appear with one of the following preparations: Fufanon, Kemifos, Karbofos.

How to deal with raspberry agrilus?

Raspberry agrilus is a light gray-greenish beetle. Female beetles lay eggs in raspberry stems under the skin. The emerging larvae make spiral-shaped passages in the stems - the shoots die.

Control measures - cutting out, destroying (burning) the affected shoots - this is the only way..

How to deal with stem raspberry gall midge?

The raspberry stem gall midge is a small mosquito that usually appears in May-June. Female mosquitoes lay eggs under the skin of raspberry stems. The larvae (worms) live in the stem and feed on its pulp. At the site where the larvae invade, cones and growths appear on the stem, usually containing one larva, rarely 2-3. The stem at the site where the growth appears is easily broken. Sooner or later, nutrition stops flowing to the top of the stem, the leaves wither, the shoots die prematurely, and the crop dies.

Control measures: cutting off affected branches, burning them; treatment of raspberries with mosquito repellents - infusions of tobacco, mullein, leaves walnut, bird cherry, nettle, wormwood, etc. Spray in the evening, since mosquitoes begin their activities with the onset of darkness, all night long.

How to fight raspberry bud moth?

The raspberry bud moth butterfly begins its active activity during the raspberry flowering - it lays eggs in the flower. The caterpillar feeds on the juices of the flower, and then takes refuge in the bark of the stem for the winter. In the spring, the caterpillars penetrate the buds, eat everything inside, and pupate there.

Control measures: spray with a 30% solution of karbofos during bud swelling.

How to deal with leaf rollers, aphids and mites - pests of raspberries?

Leaf rollers

There are many varieties of leaf rollers. What they have in common in their behavior is great mobility; when they are discovered, they begin to wriggle wildly and try to “escape” by climbing down on cobwebs. Leafworm caterpillars feed on leaf buds. In this case, the leaves are wrapped along the length or width of the leaf, which is why they are called leaf rollers.

Control measures: late autumn and summer spraying with Actellik is effective. In early spring before buds open or in late autumn, spraying with preparation No. 30 is effective.

Aphid

Aphids suck juices from raspberry leaves, shoots, and berries. In this case, the affected leaves curl and the shoots stop growing. Aphids are dangerous because they are carriers of viral diseases.

Control measures. The drug Bi-58 is effective against aphids.

Ticks

Various mites cause great harm to raspberries - the leaves turn pale, fall off, the berries remain small and tasteless. Late autumn, early spring Before the leaves bloom, I advise you to treat the bushes with preparation No. 30, and before the fruits appear - Bi-58.

How to fight bacterial cancer of raspberries?

It should be noted that almost all types of raspberries are not resistant to bacterial cancer. Diseased plants cannot be saved; they must be destroyed. Preventative measures for seedlings before planting are relatively effective. Carefully select seedlings before purchasing, inspecting the roots - there should be no growths or thickenings. Drugs against bacterial cancer no raspberries yet. Do not plant it in place of plants removed due to disease for 2-3 years. The soil can be improved by planting legumes in this area for several years.

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Caring for raspberries: pinching or pinching shoots

Very often on gardening websites you can find the following statement: “Very important point caring for raspberries - pinching or tweezing shoots. Pinch a young raspberry shoot - this will increase the yield several times.” At the same time, neither the variety nor its characteristics are indicated. But the pinching method cannot be used on all varieties of raspberries. Tweezing (translated from German) - removing the top of a young shoot by pinching it with special tweezers, scissors or just your fingers.

Pinching is one of the agrotechnical techniques for caring for bushes, their formation, and increasing raspberry yields. It is used to stop the upward growth of the main shoot, to form a crown, and to enhance the growth of the remaining branches. This method is used to ensure that part of the buds on a young shoot “wake up”, thereby forming several side branches (laterals).

The first time I learned about this method of increasing raspberry yields was from the fifteen-year-old magazine “Family. Earth. Harvest". I tried it. It didn't work out right away. But I can already draw some conclusions. Now I successfully use pinching of young shoots on my site. Caring for this berry crop involves timely pruning, watering or fertilizing. And pinching young shoots complements them perfectly. But this method cannot be used on all varieties of raspberries.

First pinch done in the second year after planting, when the bush has at least two young replacement shoots (Fig. 1, 2). If you pinch one (Fig. 1a) and leave the second untouched, then 3 laterals will grow on the pinched shoot (Fig. 1b). There are 2 and 4. The second shoot (unpinched) does not produce laterals. If you pinch both (Fig. 2a), then two or three laterals will grow on both (Fig. 2b). Rarely, but there are 6, mostly 3-4. It all depends on the raspberry variety and agricultural cultivation technology.

Second pinch done in the third year after planting. Fig. 3a shows 2 fruiting stems and 3 replacement shoots. The pinching is done on the middle one, the two lateral ones are left without pinching - they will not give lateral branches. The middle shoot shows 3 laterals (Fig. 3b). Can be from two to five.

Rice. 4a also shows the number of fruiting replacement shoots, but all three were pinched. The number of laterals on the middle is 3, on the right - 2, on the left - none. Or maybe 2 or more for everyone.

In subsequent years, the number of pinching options may vary. Everything will depend on the number of fruiting stems, replacement shoots, and the life of the bush. As soon as fewer replacement shoots begin to grow compared to last year, it means that the life of the bush ends and pinching stops.

Before you begin this operation, you need to know the variety of raspberries and their reaction to pinching.

Pinching begins when young replacement shoots reach a height of more than 1.2 m, that is, they exceed the trellis wire so that they can be tied up. This pinching period begins around May 25 and continues until mid-June. Sometimes the period is extended to a maximum of June 20-25 if spring is late.

Pinching begins in the second year after planting a standard two-year-old seedling with a good root system, when the bush has at least two strong replacement shoots.

They only pinch tall raspberry varieties, which do not have the ability to branch - Bryanskaya, Meteor, Solnyshko, Balsam, Combi, Sputnitsa, Brigantina, Latham, Prussen Berlin, others. Pinch out up to 10 cm of the top of the young replacement shoot.

Everyone low-growing varieties No pinching is needed for the raspberries. Usually these are those that produce many replacement shoots, or specially form a bush, leaving many fruiting stems or replacement branches, in a total number of up to 20 or more.

In any year, pinching should be carried out on no more than 50% of replacement shoots.

Pinching carried out later - July, for example, gives negative results. The lateral branches-literals will grow short, will not have time to become woody well before the first autumn frosts, that is, the epidermis of the shoots will not be frost-resistant, and even if it can withstand the first autumn frost, it may freeze out during Christmas or Epiphany frosts, or will not be able to withstand a cold, long winter.

Late pinching on remontant raspberry varieties sharply reduces the first autumn yield of young replacement shoots. Not all of the buds will bloom, not all of the inflorescences will set, not all of the fruits that have set will ripen; with cold weather they can hang and not ripen for up to 10-15 or more days, and if they ripen, the berries will be small.

After pinching, the period of awakening of the buds and growth of lateral branches lasts approximately 10 days. If you do not pinch, then during this time the central shoot would grow upward by about one meter or more. That is, by pinching off the top of the central branch, we slow down the development of the plant. This slowdown negatively affects the autumn harvest of some remontant varieties. Some fruits do not have time to ripen before the first autumn frost.

Some raspberry varieties from the summer harvest are prone to branching without pinching. They independently form up to 3-4 branching laterals. These varieties do not need pinching. These are Scarlet Sail, Bryansk Cascade, Kokinskaya, Skromnitsa, Novost Kuzmina, and others.

Of the remontant varieties, for example, I only pinch out Indian Summer, since after pinching the variety produces up to 15-17 lateral branches.

The remontant variety Progress does not need to be pinched, as this is a variety of late autumn fruiting. A fruit branch, like a bunch of grapes, grows alone at the top of a young replacement shoot, with a total number of buds, inflorescences, and fruits up to 300, sometimes up to 400. If you pinch, there won’t be such a bunch. 2-3 lateral branches will appear, bloom, some of the fruits will set, but will not have time to ripen before the first autumn frosts. As a rule, the bunches, along with the branch branches, freeze, and everything has to be cut off. The remaining young shoots turn out to be low, and the summer raspberry harvest next year is reduced.

On the Progress variety, it is recommended to pluck out 50% of the buds, inflorescences, and small fruits in the ovary stage. The remaining 50% of the fruits will be large, a 100% yield of marketable fruits before the first autumn frosts is ensured, and the yield increases.

In all remontant raspberry varieties of non-tree groups, in which on young shoots of replacement in autumn the crop is located at the top in a compact brush (Progress) or the fruit branch has several branches (Tachanka, Lloyd George, Meteor, Zhuravlik, Lesnaya, other varieties), pinching is not necessary .

Now there are many new wonderful varieties of raspberries. Nothing is possible about either without practical application say whether the yield will increase or not after pinching young shoots. Everything described above has been tested experimentally. Some varieties responded well to pinching with a significant increase in yield, while in others it decreased.

Planting and replanting raspberries, caring for seedlings

Most often we grow raspberries with red fruits, but there are varieties with purple, black or yellow berries. Various ripening periods allow you to enjoy the harvest from mid-summer to autumn. Raspberries should not grow in one place for more than four years. But planting or transplanting raspberries to a new place, caring for seedlings is not such a simple process - everything must be done skillfully. The berries usually ripen in mid-summer on shoots that grew last year. But there are raspberry varieties that produce two harvests per year.

The berries are rich in fiber, contain vitamin A, folic acid, antioxidants, and numerous minerals. The juice contains vitamin C, and the tiny seeds contain vitamin E.

Raspberries are very susceptible viral diseases. For this reason, it is especially important to plant only plants in your garden that come from a completely reliable source.

Raspberries grow best in full sun, but this condition is not always easy to achieve in a small garden and, if necessary, the plant will tolerate some shade. She likes more acidic soil (pH 6.0-6.5). Alkaline soil will suffer seriously from excess iron and deficiency of manganese. The soil should not be dry during flowering and fruit ripening.

Planting raspberry seedlings too deep is the most common mistake gardeners make. When planting, the roots should be buried no more than 8 cm. If the seedlings have just arrived from the nursery, you can see the old soil level on the stems - this is like an indicator of the correct planting depth.

The fastest way to plant raspberries is to dig a trench the width of your shovel. When you place the seedlings in the dug trench, straighten the roots and cut off any damaged parts. Immediately after planting, trim the shoots; they can be no more than 60 cm high.

So as not to be upset later by the lack of harvest, do not grow it in one place for more than four years, and then transplant it to a new place. Many gardeners know about this. But most often the sizes of our garden plots are not so large, so all raspberry bushes are transplanted immediately. And on next year There is usually no harvest. Small, low-cut seedlings can only please visiting children with their harvest. To get a consistently high harvest every year, you can use one of the two planting methods below.

Method one. In a new location, it is best to plant raspberries after potatoes, onions or tomatoes. The pits for planting are prepared in advance, in fact a year before planting. At the end of July, you need to dig holes half a meter in depth, width and length. The gap between them should be approximately the same as their width. Each planting hole should be filled with a bucket of rotted manure, compacted, and covered with earth on top. It is advisable to fertilize the ground first: 35-40 grams of ammophos, 10 grams of potassium salt or 60-80 grams of wood ash.

Next year, we select replacement shoots or well-developed raspberry shoots from the bushes at the end of July - the first half of August and transplant them to prepared places. After planting, the tops of each plant should be trimmed by only 10-15 cm. It is advisable to tie the plants to a stake or trellis. Water each hole generously with water (6-8 liters). After two or three days, it is useful to fertilize raspberry seedlings with straw rabbit droppings or any other organic fertilizer.

If you do everything in this way, then the raspberries will take root well before frost. In the first year after planting it will give good harvest.

Method two. After harvesting, remove the fruit-bearing raspberry stems, leaving only 1-2 replacement shoots. In order for them to develop well by the end of the growing season, young shoots must be systematically removed. It is advisable to loosen the soil between the rows of raspberries well, hill up the bushes, and tie the plants to a trellis. Manure mulch should be added to the soil before hilling. If the autumn turns out to be dry, then the bushes will need to be watered well periodically.

In the spring, with the onset of warmth, the soil with which the raspberry bushes were covered must be leveled and slightly loosened between its rows. As in the first planting method, the tops of the shoots should be cut off by 10-15 cm, and damaged ones should be cut to a healthy place. When the first leaves open and grow a couple of centimeters, cut the roots around the bush with a shovel full and carefully pull the bush out of the ground. Without damaging young shoots and rhizomes, remove the remains of old stems. Dip the roots of raspberry bushes in clay mash. Plant young plants in holes prepared in the fall using the planting method described above. IN autumn-spring period Carry out soil care by watering the bushes, removing weeds, and mulching the soil.

As practice shows, if we compare these two methods of planting and replanting, then in areas where raspberries were planted with already formed leaves, the yield is much higher.

Raspberry pests: how to deal with gall midges

There are many pests that love raspberries. Various larvae, borers, beetles, worms are creatures that feed on the leaves, fruits, and stems of this plant. They can cause premature yellowing or even falling of leaves, can damage the berries, and deprive you of the pleasure of eating them. What are the most dangerous raspberry pests? Very dangerous pest, which can significantly reduce productivity, and sometimes completely destroy your raspberry tree - gall midge. The main symptom is thickening of the stems and growths on them. How to fight gall midges, improve the quality and quantity of the harvest?

Gallica

There are two types of gall midges: shoot and stem.

Type one - shoot gall midge. From the second half of summer until late autumn, raspberry stems form ring swellings-growths or bumps. They are usually found at the bottom of the stem, closer to the root. The outer tissue—the epidermis—cracks. The internal nutrient medium of the stem is converted into dust by the gall midge larva. The stem breaks easily at this point. As a rule, there is one swelling on the shoot and one larva inside. Sometimes there are two or three swellings on the stem with different distances from each other. Rarely, there are up to 5-7 such cones on a shoot.

Gall midge on young raspberry shoots

Break the stem at the point of swelling - you will find a larva 10-12 mm long. It is light yellow or light green in color depending on the juice it feeds on. From the place of swelling, the gall midge larva moves upward in a spiral up to 20 cm or more. In the initial stage of development in its nest - the galle - it is very small, lives and develops alone. When a certain age is reached, the larva climbs to the surface of the shoot and descends into the soil. The gall midge crawls out of the soil, having already turned into a small mosquito. Female mosquitoes lay eggs under the bark or in cracks in the stem (by the way, very often raspberry bark cracks due to overfeeding with nitrogen). Then gall midge larvae appear there again and penetrate the stem - everything starts all over again.

During the growing season, several generations of gall midges develop, and there is a continuous wave of formation of new swellings-galls on raspberry stems. This continues until the first autumn frosts. The larvae of the last generation overwinter in the soil on different depths(up to 30 cm or deeper) at different distances from the affected shoot, that is, over the entire raspberry planting area.

Gall midges are very mobile. If, when loosening the soil, the larva is on top, then after two or three minutes it will crawl into the ground, then it will be difficult to find. There were cases when I found 2-3 larvae in the galls in the spring. Apparently, these were individuals of late rotation. Autumn and winter turned out to be warm.

Control measures. This is the fight against mosquitoes, egg laying and larvae. I will share my observations, methods, and conclusions. Small mosquitoes (mosquitoes) love to settle on raspberry varieties that suffer from Didimella - purple spot. It is against this that the main struggle must be waged.

In the spring, as soon as the buds on the stems begin to bloom, I do pinching - I cut the buds from below with ordinary scissors to a height of 50-80 cm, depending on the length of the shoot. These buds are unproductive.

I spray the stems with one percent Bordeaux mixture in order to prevent the massive spread of didimella fungus. Spraying can also be carried out before the buds begin to bloom. During the growth of young replacement shoots or shoots, I do three pinchings - I cut off the lower leaves.

From the beginning of July I begin to cut out the fruiting stems of early varieties, then medium ones, and by mid-July I finish cutting out the stems of late-fruiting raspberries. The goal is to promptly prevent the spread of didimella fungus.

Then I proceed to the main spraying of young replacement shoots and shoots with 1% Bordeaux mixture or any other copper-containing preparation. I spray the exposed part of the shoots up to the first leaves, because on remontant varieties at this time mass flowering occurs and fruits begin to set. I spray at the end of the day when there are no bees. The goal is to prevent the incidence of didimella in young shoots.

Female gall midge mosquitoes “understood” my goal and began to lay eggs in the upper part of the shoots - there it would be easier for us to detect them. Most egg laying occurs on single-yielding varieties, less on remontant raspberry varieties.

During the season, before the first autumn frosts, systematically, at least once a week, you need to inspect the raspberry bushes, cut off the shoots with galls in the initial stage. Cut the affected shoot, find it, and be sure to destroy the larva and prevent it from going into the soil.

When the swellings (galls) have grown, the larvae are clearly visible. Unfortunately, this method of struggle is not always successful. You cut the shoot, but there is no gall midge larva, it is already in the ground. Sometimes it is simply difficult to see galls in time when they are not yet clearly expressed.

If in the spring, above the swelling, the buds do not bloom, cut off the affected shoot 1-2 cm lower. On the remaining stem, it can be up to 1 m or higher, do not pruning (pruning the blossoming buds), they will bear fruit normally.

The second species is the stem gall midge. It affects young replacement shoots and shoots. Stems are not affected. Formed on the shoots lateral growths-bumps of uncertain shape. The outer cover of the shoot, the epidermis, does not crack. Larvae up to 2 mm in size, light yellow or orange color, 5 each, rarely up to 7 pcs. Apparently, that’s why the name is stem gall midge.

In the spring, during flowering, mosquitoes emerge from the larvae, and females lay eggs on young shoots. The emerging gall midge larvae penetrate the shoot, where they continue to live, overwinter, and develop. During the season there is one rotation, one generation.

Growths are found from August to November. During the autumn-winter period, the larvae infect the entire inside of the shoot, turning it into dust, and immediately overwinter. This type of gall midge is rare and is not harmful to raspberries.

Control measures. When a growth is detected, I cut it off with a knife, remove all the contents along with the gall midge larvae onto a piece of paper, and destroy them with a sharp object. I cover the wound with garden varnish, you can use solid oil, cement, clay or any oil paint. This is the only available, effective method of combating this type of disease. The shoots bear fruit normally.

I noticed other types of growths on raspberries in the lower part of young replacement shoots - in the form of a ring, acute-angled and round spherical. They are very rare. When you cut through the growth site (the inside of the stem is not broken), you can see several black dots, but I did not see the larva, maybe it is there, but it can probably only be detected under a microscope. I don’t know what kind of pest or disease it is. I did not cut out the shoots. They bear fruit normally.

What can be done to avoid losing the harvest?

• I recommend always leaving one or two young replacement shoots in the bush as a reserve, depending on the size of the bush and its age. As a rule, one, rarely two, shoots are affected by gall midge in a bush.
• Grow varieties that are resistant to all diseases and pests.
• Use mosquito repellents from raspberries - infusions of tobacco, mullein, walnut leaves, bird cherry, nettle, wormwood, etc. Spray in the evening, since mosquitoes begin their actions at nightfall and throughout the night.
• The gall midge does not like onions or garlic - you can even plant perennial onions - batun, chives and others - between the rows of raspberries.
• A good effect is obtained from the organized, simultaneous, timely work of all gardeners to combat gall midges.

Watch the video to see what raspberry stems look like when infected with stem gall midge. I just want to warn you that the authors of the video advise treating raspberries with drugs against leaf-eating pests. This method will not work against gall midges.

Raspberry tree or standard raspberry: varieties and care

Standard raspberry Penguin

I would like to introduce you to Mikhail Vasilyevich Gulenin’s experience in growing standard raspberry varieties. Standard raspberry (popular name - raspberry tree)- one of the newest promising areas of raspberry farming. The first plants of this type in our country were obtained in Moscow at the VSTISP Institute of Horticulture (1987) by Professor V.V. Kichina from crossing the standard-1 donor with the Stolichnaya variety. Since 1993, this has been a new variety of Tarusa, which was a breakthrough in Russian agronomic science.

At the end of the 90s, the standard variety Krepysh was obtained at VSTISP, and at the beginning of the 2000s - Skazka.

Standard raspberry Tarusa

Tarusa, Sturdy And Fairy tale- raspberry varieties of standard non-repairing type with a fruiting period in Kuban from mid-June to mid-July.

Escapes standard raspberries upright, stocky, up to 1.5 m high with dense wood and non-drooping top, very similar to small, sturdy raspberry trees. These qualities make it possible to grow such plants without special supports, trellises and garters, which significantly reduces the cost, makes it easier to care for the plantings, and allows them to be cultivated in field conditions. Fruit buds they are located very densely along the stem every 1-2 cm, so during flowering and fruiting the plants look very elegant.

People dubbed such raspberries as “raspberry tree.” The Krepysh and Skazka varieties are superior to Tarusa in terms of berry quality. The berries are ruby, large from 4 to 10 g, beautiful conical shape, dense, with good harvest and transportability. Tarusa has light red berries, 4-8 g.

At the Kokinsky stronghold of the VSTISP branch, under the leadership of Professor I.V. Kazakov, work was also carried out in this direction, but only in remontant raspberries. In 1994, scientists S.N. Evdokimenko and V.L. Kulagina obtained the first standard-type remontant variety in Russia - Eurasia, bred from seeds from free pollination of interspecific remontant forms. As a variety, it has been propagated since 2005.

Variety Eurasia has straight-growing shoots up to 1.2 m, large, dark crimson berries 4-5 g, conical, dense. Fruiting begins at the end of July, berry picking lasts for two months. Before winter, all stems are completely cut down to the ground.

Young shoot of standard raspberry Penguin

Later, the same scientists of the Kokinsky strong point obtained a standard remontant variety Penguin, suitable for both manual cleaning harvest and machine. The bushes are erect, non-lodging, bush height is 1.1-1.3 m, the berries are dark crimson, round-conical, large 4-5 g, dense. The variety is characterized by high shelf life and transportability. After ripening, the fruits can hang for up to 5 days without loss of quality. The beginning of fruiting in Kuban is from mid-July. Fruiting is consistent until the end of August and the harvest is fully produced. The second wave of harvest is on late shoots from October until frost. All shoots are cut down to ground level before winter.

Standard raspberries, like regular ones, love well-lit areas with fertile, well-drained soil. Rows for better lighting It is advisable to place from south to north.

The soil must be prepared in advance (a month in advance). A strip 60 cm wide is prepared, into which 2 buckets of humus, 150 g of nitroamophoska, and a glass of ash are added per 1 linear m. Dig up the soil using a shovel or loosen it with a motor cultivator.

Raspberries can be planted from mid-September to late autumn, in spring from early March to late April, and even in winter, if the soil and weather permit.

Standard raspberry seedlings are placed in one line 50 cm apart. Add 1 tbsp to the dug hole. l. nitroammophoska, place the seedling, cover the roots with earth, trying to deepen the root collar no more than 2-3 cm. Then the shoots are cut off above the ground, leaving 25-30 cm. The ground around the bush is mulched with humus, watered with water at the rate of 5 liters per bush.

In the spring, against the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases, raspberry bushes must be treated in March with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture and in May, before flowering, with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or topaz 10 ml per 10 liters of water.

The pebble mosquito causes great damage to raspberry plantations. Against it, young shoots during the mass flight of the mosquito are sprayed on approximately May 10 and 20 with one of the solutions: Actelik or Bi-58 - 15 ml per 10 liters of water. The same treatment must be repeated at the end of July, when the second generation of mosquitoes emerges.

Standard raspberries are also demanding on watering, especially during fruiting, so they must be carried out throughout the entire growing season, every 5-7 days (about 5 liters per bush). To prevent the soil from drying out in the summer, from the end of May the soil is mulched with a layer of up to 5 cm of rice or sunflower husks, mown grass, etc. In early spring (March), the plants are fed with a urea solution - 50 g per 10 liters of water (enough for 3 bushes) or infusion of chicken, mullein.

In May, before flowering, feed with a solution of nitroamophoska or nutrivant drip - 2 tbsp. l. Ten liters of water for 3 bushes.

A good effect is achieved by foliar feeding on the leaves once a month, starting from the moment of budding, with solutions containing a set of microelements “Ryazanochka for berry crops” - 1 tsp. for 10 liters of water or “Nutrivant plus fruit” - 2 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water.

In unfavorable weather conditions (frost, heat, sunburn), mechanical damage, depressed plants are sprayed with the anti-stress drug “Aminokat 30%” - 2 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water. At the end of July, only fruit-bearing shoots are cut out from the standard varieties Tarusa, Krepysh, and Skazka. At the end of September, the bushes are formed: 5-6 of the strongest shoots are left on 1 bush and the top is cut off by 10-15 cm.

In the remontant standard varieties Penguin and Eurasia, which bear fruit on annual shoots from the end of July, the entire above-ground part is removed before winter. Only the root overwinters. This allows you to improve the health of the bushes, avoid diseases, reduce the number of pests, and get a guaranteed harvest for the next year.

Interest among gardeners in breeding and growing raspberries in the Kuban is constantly growing. Now, with the advent of standard varieties, the opportunity opens up for farmers or farms to cultivate large areas of this crop without trellises and garters, which reduces labor costs. Raspberry farming is one of the most promising areas in agriculture. With proper care and cultivation technology, gardeners and farmers can achieve high yields this beautiful berries, always in demand in the markets of Kuban.

When writing, materials from the newspaper “Niva Kubani” with the supplement “Nivushka”, 2014, No. 8 were used. and website http://ogorod23.ru

With the onset of warm spring days, many summer residents are thinking about expanding their garden or, conversely, creating something new. Raspberry is a shrub that can be found in many garden plots. This is explained by the fact that the plant does not require special care and is not picky about weather conditions. However, despite this fact, you should know some rules and pay attention to seemingly insignificant nuances. They will help preserve the harvest and avoid unexpected surprises, such as the death of seedlings. So, let's talk about everything important in order.

Raspberry planting dates

Beginning gardeners sometimes ask the question: “When to plant raspberries?” Today there are many opinions on this matter: some say that this should be done in the spring, others in the fall. There is no single correct option, but it has been noticed that shrub seedlings take root better in the spring.

According to the advice of experienced gardeners, the best option for planting a plant is mid-April - early May, when the buds have not yet bloomed on the trees.

It is necessary to plant exactly during the above-mentioned time period, because it is not yet summer heat outside, and the soil contains the moisture necessary for plants. If you plant a shrub a little later, then there is a high probability that it will not take root and the ruthless sun rays it will be destroyed, and if earlier, it may die due to frost.

Choosing a place for the future raspberry garden

You need to be very responsible about the place where raspberries are planted. The area should be protected from the winds and well lit. As a rule, such a site is located near the fence. You also need to be prepared in advance for the fact that in a few years the raspberry tree may grow very large and interfere with the normal development of agricultural crops. To prevent this from happening, gardeners come up with various kinds barriers, for example, are dug in (to a depth of 50 cm) along the perimeter of the plantings with slate.

IMPORTANT! In the area where raspberries will grow, they should not accumulate rainwater. The shrub develops slowly due to excess moisture, the fruits are small. Also, this crop does not tolerate proximity to groundwater.

Preparing the soil for raspberries

It is believed that raspberries are not a capricious crop and grow in almost any soil. However, some manipulations with the ground are still necessary. In particular, a little humus is added to the holes or trenches. The nutrient layer should be approximately 10 cm thick. If there is no humus, then dry leaves or grass can be used instead.

Basic methods of planting raspberries

There are three methods of planting raspberries: trenches, cuttings and seedlings. To understand the differences, let's give general characteristics each of the above methods.

We purchase planting material

You can buy planting material in special nurseries or agricultural markets. Price category different, it directly depends on the variety and age of the seedling. On average, the cost is 200-300 rubles for one young bush.

When choosing, you should pay attention to the root system. It must be powerful (have many ramifications). Otherwise, the plant may take a very long time to take root.

Making calculations: basic raspberry planting schemes

In order for raspberry bushes to develop well, you need to know correct scheme landings. Basically, a formula that has been proven over the years is used: the distance between rows should be approximately 1 m 20 cm, and between bushes - 20 cm.

As for the planting depth, it depends on the chosen method. If seedlings are planted in holes, then a depth of 20 cm is sufficient, and if in a trench, then at least 40 cm.

Raspberries: basic care after planting

• Watering. Raspberries do not need constant watering, except at the initial stage (after planting). During this period, you need to water the plant once every 2-3 days. Subsequently, the raspberries will have enough precipitation.
• Mulching. You must remember to periodically mulch the soil around the bush (lay out dry grass). This helps retain moisture.
• Weeding and loosening. At the initial stage, when the raspberry bush has just been planted and has not yet gained strength, you need to make sure that there are no weeds around the plantings. Also experienced gardeners It is recommended to loosen the soil in the hole from time to time, this will allow the roots to “breathe”.
• When the transplanted raspberry grows, you need to prune the plant. This is necessary so that the bush stops growing upward and begins to sprout side shoots(branches).

Let us add that no matter what method you choose for planting raspberries, sooner or later you will have to transplant them to another place. If the bush constantly grows in only one area, it will stop bearing fruit.

In general, even a novice gardener can have a well-groomed raspberry garden in his garden. The main thing is to choose good planting material and know the basic rules for caring for this plant.

Planting raspberries - video

It will take 8 minutes to read

Raspberries are often called the queen of the garden. This name is well deserved, because this is one of the most popular berry crops grown in household plots. Raspberries have earned the love of summer residents because both sweet, aromatic berries, leaves, and even bush twigs are used in cooking. At the same time, the plant is not picky in planting and care. Let's look at how to plant raspberries in the summer.

Features of the plant

Raspberry is a perennial deciduous shrub. In one place, this representative of the Rubus genus can grow for 5-8 years or more without losing high yield. Remontant varieties are distinguished by the fact that they bear fruit several times a year.

Reference. Interesting feature Raspberries are that the berries appear on woody stems in the second year. After fruiting, the branch dries up. After a year, new replacement shoots grow from the rhizome.

After 5-7 years, instead of two or three, only one bud sprouts from the raspberry bush at the base of last year’s shoot. How more years shrub, the fewer fruit-bearing replacement shoots it forms. Therefore, the bush needs rejuvenation. And so that there is always fresh raspberries on the table, the gardener needs to know how to plant and care for them correctly.

Raspberry fruiting

A characteristic feature of most varieties is its ability to grow rapidly:

• root system can take up a diameter of about 4 m, and the depth of the roots can be 1.5 m. This property helps the shrub to better tolerate drought, but has an adverse effect on yield;
• in summer, many weak buds in the form of tubercles form on the adventitious roots, from which root shoots grow by the next season. They are pruned with a shovel by 5-7 cm. If the appearance of such growth is not prevented, the quality of fruiting will decrease.

Varieties and groups of raspberries

Depending on the degree of density of the shoots, raspberry varieties are divided into three groups:

• the first group includes the varieties Gusar, Skromnitsa, Meteor, Indian Summer. They can be planted quite close, as the shrubs have a moderate amount of growth. The number of replacement shoots in most cases is equal to the number of fruiting stems;
• The second group includes varieties that are characterized by sparse growth of shoots. Such shrubs have a loose appearance - these are Hercules, Maroseyka, Pokusa;
• The third group consists of varieties that produce abundant young shoots. Shrubs of the Heritage and Polana varieties will need to be thinned.

Raspberry propagation

Raspberry variety Hercules

There are several ways to propagate shrubs vegetatively:

1. Dividing the bush. This procedure is carried out in the spring before buds open or at the end of the season after leaf fall.
2. Root suckers. In autumn, planting material with well-developed roots and bud buds is selected.
3. Young shoots. In summer, raspberry bushes are propagated by cuttings in the first ten days of June.

Important! If the gardener does not want to destroy the shoots and use it more rationally - better way It’s hard to think of a way to use it to propagate raspberries. But in order to get healthy and strong bushes, you should strictly follow some rules for planting raspberry cuttings: choosing a location, preparing the site and cuttings, and planting technology.

Choosing a place to plant raspberries

In addition to the fact that raspberries prefer places well lit by the sun and protected from the wind, you need to take into account some more nuances of choosing a site:

• It is not advisable to place raspberries in beds where strawberries, peppers, eggplants, and potatoes were previously planted;
• it is not recommended to plant perennials again on the soil where there were old raspberry trees;
• a favorable place is the soil after harvesting parsley, dill, onions, garlic, legumes, calendula;
• It will be extremely successful to place young plantings in the area after the alkaloid lupine - it perfectly cleans the soil of beetleworm, which causes irreparable harm to the raspberry tree.

Site preparation

The soil for raspberry gardens must meet the following conditions:

1. The composition of the soil is light loam.
2. Groundwater – no deeper than 1.5 m.
3. The soil should contain large amounts of fluorine and calcium.

Heritage raspberries

Before planting raspberries, prepare a nutritious soil mixture:

• 10 kg of humus or compost;
• 400 g of ash;
• 100 g superphosphate;
• 50 g of potassium sulfate.

Preparing cuttings for planting

Planting material, whether shoots or root cuttings, must be prepared:

1. Old, weak and damaged roots should be trimmed.
2. Treat the cut areas with crushed charcoal.
3. Trim the top of the seedling - the shoot should be no more than 20 cm long.
4. All leaves on the shoot are removed.
5. The cuttings are placed in water for a while; before planting, the remaining roots are shaken and straightened.

Reference. To propagate a favorite variety, a gardener needs only one lignified shoot, green shoot or root cutting no more than 10 cm long, 3-5 mm in diameter. If there is a choice, it is preferable for the cuttings to be larger and already have buds.

Preparing the trench

Raspberries are planted in rows in trenches. The distance between seedlings is maintained at 50-80 cm, between rows - about 1 m. Trenches are prepared in the following sizes:

• width – 60-70 cm;
• depth – 40-50 cm.

The row spacing is mulched to prevent the appearance of weeds. Sometimes it is enough to throw sheets of old cut linoleum there. In the future, this will greatly simplify caring for raspberries.

Along the edges of the rows, posts are dug in, between which 2-3 wires are stretched. Raspberries will be tied to them later. A third of the trench is filled with prepared nutrient soil mixture. After planting the seedlings, the remaining volume is covered with a layer of fertile soil.

Planting raspberries

Raspberry cuttings can be planted in several ways. The simplest way is to plant seedlings in groups of 2. into one landing hole:

1. The cuttings are immersed in the ground to the depth of your thumb.
2. After planting, it is not recommended to compact the soil; the soil around the seedlings is lightly pressed.
3. Each cutting is tied by the top to a stretched wire. In the future, you will need to tie up the shoots growing from the roots.
4. Moderate watering is required, mainly in dry weather.

If there are few cuttings, it is recommended to use them as sources of sprouts, which are subsequently rooted. To do this:

• when the cuttings begin to peek out of the soil, they are hilled up and a nutrient mixture is sprinkled on top to a thickness of 2-3 cm;
• when the sprout grows above the ground and produces 2-3 leaves, it is cut off at the level of the appearance of the cutting;
• cut sprouts are planted in the ground to take root.

At the end of summer, shoots of the first year can be propagated by digging in the tops. For this, a special nutrient substrate is prepared from peat, compost and wood ash. Pots are made from this mass and placed on a gutter at a height of 20-30 cm above the ground. The stem is tilted towards the pot and the top is planted there. Plantings need to be watered.

Raspberry propagation by layering

For faster rooting, the stem is wrapped in a plastic bag:

1. The bottom of the bag is cut off and one side is tied to the pot.
2. Stretch it on a raspberry branch and tie it around the stem.
3. Such wrapped nurseries are watered 2-3 times a week without removing the bag. To do this, water is poured into the gutter.

In the last ten days of September, the rooted shoot is cut off from the mother bush. It is planted without removing it from the nutrient pot. This type of propagation gives better results than rooting the top directly into the ground. Due to a sharp bend, the branches often break, the cuttings take root worse, and the raspberries themselves develop poorly.

If weather conditions do not allow planting cuttings directly in open ground, they can be rooted in protected soil. To do this, the nutrient substrate is prepared from a mixture of peat, turf soil, and sand in a ratio of 2:1:1. The planting depth in the box is about 3-5 cm. Care consists of regular watering.

Caring for raspberries

In the year of planting, thanks to the nutrient-rich soil, raspberries do not need fertilizing. One of the mandatory agricultural care practices is the provision of watering during dry periods.

The formation of the bush begins when the planted shoot reaches 15 cm in length. At this stage it is pinched for the first time. When the newly formed shoots grow 20 cm, they are pinched again. The third pinching is carried out as soon as the third-order stems stretch up to 20 cm. Subsequently, a well-branched shrub is obtained that is capable of producing about 3 kg of berries.

An adult plant needs pruning. The shrub has a two-year fruiting cycle. The first year's shoot does not produce a harvest. The berries appear in the second year of life, after which the stem dries out and other replacement shoots grow. Pruning is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. The bush is carefully examined to identify 6-7 strong young shoots.
2. The rest must be cut to the ground.
3. After harvesting, fruit-bearing shoots are removed.

Important! During the process of sanitary pruning in early spring, no more than 15 cm of the top is removed. The middle part of the shoot produces less fruit than the upper part. The lower part of the stem practically does not bear fruit.

Raspberry roots are located close to the surface of the earth, so digging up the soil near the bush is not necessary. Loosening of the soil is carried out only between rows. After this, mulching is performed.

Propagation of raspberries by cuttings

Plant residues of grain crops, freshly cut grass, compost, and humus are used as mulch. The layer is made thick, sparing no raw materials. This mulching retains moisture well and protects the roots from overheating on hot summer days.

Fertilizer application

Fertilizer is applied to raspberries in spring, summer and autumn.

1. In the spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied, fed with urea and ammonium nitrate. The procedure is carried out before mulching. For 1 sq. m of raspberry bush, 8 g of fertilizer is required.
2. In summer, during flowering, a mineral complex containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is added; after fruiting, potassium-phosphorus fertilizing is carried out; at the end of the growing season, raspberries need phosphorus fertilizers.
3. In autumn, green manure is used as fertilizer. Clover and white mustard are planted between the rows of raspberries in the middle of summer, and after harvesting in the fall, the mowed green mass is embedded in the soil.

Organic fertilizers are a good help. In spring, raspberries can be fed with a solution of mullein (1:10) or bird droppings (1:20). Bone meal is applied under bushes in the summer. At the end of the season tree trunk circles pour wood ash.

Adhering to such simple rules You can get a good fruit-bearing bush in just a few months. Choose high-quality planting material, root it correctly, apply enough fertilizer - and on your personal plot There will always be an excellent raspberry harvest.

Raspberry planting (video)

https://youtu.be/FWQ8ST-_jBo

It is considered the most effective and productive - let's look at why.

Spring terms

Let's figure out when to plant in the spring. Everything is very simple here, you need to choose a moment when it has already warmed up slightly, the average daily temperature is already above zero, and the buds have not yet opened. Typically this is end of April – beginning of May.

How to choose the right seedlings when purchasing

When choosing planting material it is necessary to pay attention to the root system: it must be strong and healthy in appearance. A good seedling should have 2-3 escapes. There must be at least three buds at the base of the shoot. The height of the seedling does not matter.

It should be taken into account that the root system of the shrub does not tolerate drought very well: if you do not intend to plant the plant immediately, then place it in water, and during transportation, be sure to wrap it in a damp cloth or place it in a damp plastic bag.

Selecting a location

First of all, you need to consider that raspberries are perennial, and the place must be selected for more than one year. The shrub prefers those that are well protected from winds and drafts. It is not recommended to plant on hills and steep slopes, as this can lead to lack of moisture.
Very often a place is allocated for raspberries along the fence(preferably with south side) - in this case the plant will be comfortable, and you will add a small protective element to your site. Areas near outbuildings are also perfect for planting raspberries - they will protect the bush from strong winds And . The plant tolerates proximity to (except).

Preparatory work

Planting raspberries in open ground in spring requires preliminary preparation. The plant is unpretentious and will definitely give a good harvest if you follow all the rules.

If you want to plant raspberry seedlings in the spring, then the site is best prepare in the fall. it is necessary to loosen and feed with ash and humus. It will not be superfluous to make sure that the raspberry tree does not grow and does not go beyond the area allocated for it.

To do this, the ground around the perimeter should be dug up and fenced off with boards or border tape. Naturally, it is necessary to get rid of the plants.

Preparation of seedlings

The preparation of seedlings means that under no circumstances should the root system be allowed to dry out - it is very sensitive to drought. Therefore, after purchase you should constantly monitor this point. Immediately before planting, it is recommended to moisten the roots in water or earthen solution from the planting mixture.

Planting methods

Even if the soil for planting has been prepared and fertilized since the fall, it still needs to be slightly loosened before planting. The roots of the bush are superficial, so only the top layer of soil needs to be treated. Raspberries are grown using the strip method and individual bushes, respectively, and planting methods are divided into pit and trench.

Trench

To plant raspberries in the spring using the trench method, you need trenches up to 40 cm deep and approximately 50 cm wide. The distance between rows should be at least one meter, and between seedlings - at least 40 cm. Such intervals will ensure comfort for the plants and also guarantee you convenience when collecting.

Yamny

To plant in this way, prepare the holes. 40 by 50 cm. Be sure to observe the interval: the gaps between the bushes should be at least 2 m, and between the rows, as with trench planting, 1 m will be enough. It is necessary to pay attention to the planting height: the root collar of the seedling should rise slightly above the ground - this is necessary in order to so that after and, accordingly, the soil shrinks, it is located above the ground.

Important! Planting raspberries too deeply can cause the plant to rot and die.

Further care

After planting, you should follow a number of simple care rules that will not take much time and effort, and the result will certainly please you.

Watering

It is imperative to water the bushes immediately after planting; it is advisable to repeat the water procedures after 2-3 days so that the plant takes root well. It is better to mulch the soil around raspberries; this will help retain moisture in the soil longer. This can be done using straw, or.

As for what follows, you should be guided by the weather: if it is very dry and the soil is very dry, the raspberries need to be watered, but under no circumstances should they be flooded; they also do not need excess moisture.

Top dressing

Raspberries are fertilized mainly and. In spring and autumn, you can feed the plant, rotted, or. Mineral fertilizers it is desirable to contribute . These can be both mineral complexes and phosphorus separately.

Did you know? Experienced people believe that raspberries can themselves point out the existing problem and suggest what to feed it with. For example, if the leaves turn yellow but the veins remain green, this indicates a lack of iron, and thin shoots indicate a lack of phosphorus.

Trimming

Besides that raspberries prune immediately after planting, then this procedure should become regular. The shrub is needed immediately after harvest, as well as in spring and autumn. The raspberry bush should be cleaned of dried stems, and also to prevent the bush from growing too much.
In summer, you should also not leave the plant unattended: if wilted shoots appear, they should be cut off immediately. Such care will ensure order in your garden and help achieve maximum productivity.