Common juniper transplant. Is it possible to transplant an adult juniper

Juniper are shrubs and trees that belong to the evergreen coniferous plants of the Cypress family. Today there are over 60 species of them. Juniper has soft needles with various shades, a captivating aroma and frost resistance. For these reasons, it is so popular among designers and gardeners when designing a garden or local area.

Basically everyone lives quite a long time. The approximate age of these plants reaches 600 years. At the same time, they serve not only as decoration for the garden, but also perfectly clean environment from pathogenic bacteria.

However, not every gardener knows how to replant juniper without stressing the plant. Therefore, before purchasing seedlings, it is necessary to collect as much information as possible about the selected plant. And so that there are no questions about how, and most importantly, when to replant juniper - in autumn or spring - we will tell you in detail in our article about all the nuances of its cultivation.

Main varieties for growing in the garden

Juniperus virginiana is decorative tree, which grows in Canada and the USA. Sometimes it can grow up to 30 meters, but only in its homeland. In Russia, Virginia juniper does not reach a height of more than 6 meters.

Common juniper is a tree-like variety that can have the shape tall tree(up to 12 meters) or spreading bush (up to 2 meters). He is the most unpretentious appearance, and therefore the most common.

It is characterized by stretching and creeping shoots, 2-3 meters long. Resistant to frost and does not require additional care.

Cossack juniper - has the form of a creeping shrub, with a height of 1.5-2 meters. Distinctive feature This species is characterized by a pungent odor and toxicity of some varieties.

Excellent growing in artificial ponds and reservoirs. He is short in stature - 15-30 centimeters. It acclimatizes perfectly in any region of the country.

Rock juniper - in natural environment it reaches 15 meters. Cultivated varieties are somewhat lower. It has a conical crown and blue-gray or dark green needles.

Rules for purchasing seedlings

When choosing a juniper seedling, you need to consider several nuances:

1. It is better to give preference to young seedlings with a closed root system, which were grown in spacious containers. But this does not mean that seedlings with bare roots are not worth purchasing; it is simply believed that they take root worse.
2. By selecting necessary plant, you should inspect it carefully. A young tree should not contain reddened or dry tips. The color of the juniper must correspond to the description of the variety, and the needles must be elastic. It is also necessary to inspect the root system. Acceptable root shades range from light brown to yellow. Wet and dark roots may indicate that it has recently been moved into a container. This can have a negative impact when replanting the plant.

Soil preparation

Before planting juniper, you must carefully familiarize yourself with the composition of the soil. After all, different varieties require certain microelements, which may be lacking in your area. Thus, ordinary and Central Asian seedlings prefer an alkaline composition. The rest prefer to grow in an acidic environment. To create the latter, the soil is mulched with sawdust or wood chips. You can fertilize the soil with sand and peat. To ensure an alkaline environment, dolomite flour or slaked lime is used.

It is best to plant juniper where the sun's rays are most of the day, since there is a possibility that due to lack of lighting the crown of the plants will darken and the branches will slow down.

When to plant

It turns out that juniper can be replanted at any time of the year. However, according to gardeners, the best period is autumn and early spring in order to grow decorative juniper. Transplanting in the fall has a small advantage - it is high humidity, at which the ground and the crown of plants do not give up moisture.

The best time to transplant juniper in the fall is the end of October. It is this time that guarantees a successful process. However, there are those who believe that the autumn period is not the best time for planting juniper, arguing that its root system will not have time to get stronger and the plant will not survive until spring. They insist that planting should be done in April or May, depending on climatic conditions.

However, when replanting, it is worth considering what kind of seedling you purchased. If it has an open root system, then it must be immediately transplanted into open ground, regardless of weather conditions. Polarity must also be observed. That is, in a new place, the seedling should be placed in the direction in which the juniper grew before. Transplanting in autumn or spring is always stressful for the plant. Therefore, it is recommended to plant plants in at a young age when they can easily tolerate acclimatization.

Process Features

Very often, having acquired a young shoot in September, inexperienced gardeners wonder how to plant juniper in the fall so that it takes root successfully. This amazing tree can decorate any garden. And it is not difficult to plant. Difficulty can only arise if an adult was purchased open ground actually do not require special knowledge. There is a certain technique, after studying which, replanting in the fall will not cause trouble.

To begin with, the earthen ball should be well moistened. This will help you easily remove the juniper from the container. Transplantation in the fall consists of several stages:

1. Dig a hole in suitable place, approximately 60 cm deep. And in width it should be three times larger than an earthen coma.
2. Fertilize the planting hole. The vitamin mixture is prepared in proportions 2:2:2:1 (humus, peat, turf and sand, respectively). You can also add a universal fertilizer specially designed for certain varieties of juniper.
3. The young shoot is carefully placed in the hole, the roots should be placed horizontally, and then the root system should be sprinkled.
4. Water the hole with juniper with two buckets of water.
5. Add a layer of mulched soil to the settled soil.

As can be seen from the above, there is nothing difficult about planting decorative juniper. Transplanting in the fall will provide the root system of the shrub with a sufficient amount of moisture, which is so necessary in the first months after replanting.

Spring care

By following simple rules, you can grow healthy and beautiful juniper. Planting and care in open ground will not take much time, but for this you need to know a few techniques for caring for the plant.

It is believed that spring is a very dangerous time for juniper. Active spring sun rays can cause severe burns to coniferous plants. To prevent this, cover it with burlap or other shading material.

After the snow melts, it is necessary to clear the tree trunk area of ​​fallen leaves and debris. Remove the mulch layer and dig up the soil around the bush. After the soil dries, add a new layer.

Winter care

In preparation for winter, young juniper is wrapped in lutrasil. A tall and spreading adult juniper is tied up. You should periodically shake the branches of the tree from the falling snow, this will prevent them from breaking.

Feeding and watering

Juniper is an unpretentious plant that does not require constant watering. In dry summers it is watered 2-3 times a month. They also spray the branches with water using a spray bottle. This can be done in the evening or early morning, once every two weeks.

You can fertilize juniper in the spring with nitroammophos (approximately 45 grams per 1 m²). In summer, mineral or organic fertilizers can be used for fertilization once a month.

You can grow some great juniper. Replanting in the fall and proper care for it will help make your garden beautiful and the air in the area clean.

They say this plant can live up to 3000 years. Our hero is unusually beautiful, fragrant, drought-resistant, light-loving, and easy to mold. Juniper perfectly purifies the air, is capable of producing a record amount of phytoncides, but does not tolerate gas pollution. In addition, it has found application in medicine and cooking, and it is to it that the famous gin owes its original flavor.

The genus and its representatives

Olga Nikitina

Genus Juniper(Juniperus) belongs to the cypress family and has about 70 species growing in the Northern Hemisphere from the Arctic to the mountain forests of the tropical zone.

These are monoecious and dioecious trees and shrubs with scale-like or needle-like needles. The fruits are indehiscent cones, with tightly closed fleshy scales, spherical or somewhat elongated, with 1–10 seeds. Moreover, the cone berries ripen, as a rule, in the second year after pollination. By the end of the first year, the fruits reach their final size, but remain green and only the next year become soft, blue-black in color with a waxy coating. (There are photos of cones of the 1st and 2nd year).

Juniper forests are on the verge of extinction; many species are listed in the Red Book.

Representatives of this genus are distinguished by frost resistance, drought resistance, love of light and undemanding soil conditions. But at the same time, they are very sensitive to air purity and suffer greatly from smoke and soot, which limits their use in urban green construction.

Junipers develop a powerful root system that goes deep into the soil and spreads outward for tens of meters. They can obtain water and nutrients from saline or mountainous desert soils.

Junipers are frost-resistant, drought-resistant, light-loving and undemanding to soil conditions, but are very sensitive to air purity.

Juniper wood has always been at a premium: strong, fine-grained, aromatic, resistant to insects. But, unfortunately, at present there is no need to talk about large-scale procurement. Juniper forests are on the verge of extinction; many species are listed in the Red Book.

A characteristic feature of junipers is their rather slow growth and enviable longevity. In the mountains you can find 1000-year-old specimens with thick twisted trunks and curved branches, capable of growing and bearing fruit.

This coniferous species is propagated by seeds (and seedlings appear only a year after sowing), as well as by cuttings and grafting (in spring or late summer), and creeping species by layering.

Essential oils secreted by junipers have strong phytoncidal properties. It is believed that a juniper forest covering an area of ​​1 hectare is capable of purifying the air of a large city.

In the mountains you can find 1000-year-old specimens with thick twisted trunks and curved branches, capable of growing and bearing fruit.

Junipers are tree-like, shrubby, and low-growing, creeping. The former most often grow in the mountains; the maximum number of their species is found in Central Asia, where they are called juniper. These include m. Turkestan (J. turkestanica), m. hemispherical(J. semiglobosa), M. Zeravshansky (J. seravschanica) And m.Turkmen (J. turcomanica).

In the mountains of Crimea and in the northern part of Western Transcaucasia from Anapa to Gelendzhik grows one of the most decorative species kind - m. high (J. excelsa). Free-standing trees up to 10–15 m high have a dense ovoid crown of a bluish-green color. Among them there are specimens aged 500 years with strongly curved trunks, but quite viable. One can only wonder how these plants survive in difficult forest conditions.

Together with m. high in the mountains of Crimea it grows m. smelly (J. foetidissima), having very durable rot-resistant wood with unpleasant smell, And m. red(J. oxycedrus), having cone berries of a red-brown color.

tree-like m. Chinese (J. chinensis), native to Northeast China and Korea, is usually found in cultivation as a shrub with a compact crown. It grows very slowly. Its numerous decorative forms are highly in demand in green building.

In the lower part of the forest belt of the mountains, along with tree-like junipers, shrubby and creeping species grow. Juniper Cossack (J. sabina) - a low-growing shrub with outstretched branches - found in the mountains of Crimea, the Caucasus and Kazakhstan, in the Southern Urals. One of the most resistant species, tolerates city conditions well. In culture, its decorative forms are used, which have the same qualities as the main species. All parts of the plant are poisonous.

Grows in the mountains of China m. scaly (J. squamata), which is a densely branched shrub up to 1.5 m high. Its very hard and sharp needles are collected in whorls of 3 pieces. It is drought and frost resistant.

IN landscape design Creeping junipers, which include m. horizontal (J. horizontalis). Its numerous long branches are covered with bluish-green needles. Varieties of this species differ in the color of their needles and shoots.

Of the North American species, we most often find them in our culture. m. virginsky (J. virginiana), m. rocky (J. scopulorum) and their decorative forms. The first in its homeland is a tree 15–30 m high and up to 30–40 cm in diameter, with small scale-like dark green needles. It is characterized as a drought-resistant, frost-resistant, undemanding species.

Rock juniper is very close to the previous species, differing in its smaller size, multi-stemmed and irregularly rounded crown.

The most common type is considered m. ordinary (J. communis), growing in the forest zone of Europe, Asia and North America. It is a dioecious tree up to 8–12 m high or a shrub. Male specimens have a narrow cone-shaped crown (photo available), female specimens are looser. The common m. is undemanding to soils, winter-hardy, unlike other species, it is shade-tolerant and has a shallow root system. It grows quite slowly.

In terms of its decorative qualities it is inferior to other types of juniper, but its garden forms and varieties are widely used in green construction. It should be borne in mind that they feel better in those places where south side covered with light shadow from other trees or shrubs.

Very close to the previous look m. Siberian (J. sibirica), distinguished by its growth form (low-growing, densely branched shrub) and white stomatal stripes on the upper side of the needles.

Common juniper
High juniper Cossack juniper

Juniperus rigidum Juniper chinensis Juniper horizontal
Red cedar
Juniper squamosus ‘Blue Star t’

Juniper diseases

Ella Sokolova,

On juniper, the most widespread diseases are needle diseases and necrosis-cancer diseases of trunks and branches; rot damage is much less common.

Needle diseases

Schutte needles(the causative agent is a fungus Lophodermiumjuniperinum). At the beginning of summer, the affected needles acquire a yellowish or red-brown color. In July, fruiting bodies of the pathogen are formed on the upper side of the needles, which serve as the main sign of the disease. They look like round or oval, convex black formations up to 1.5 mm long, clearly visible even to the naked eye. With severe development of the disease, the fruiting bodies almost completely cover the surface of the needles. The disease develops most actively in conditions of high humidity.

Schutte is widespread in both forest and urban plantings. In some years, the disease leads to massive drying out of juniper.

Shoot necrosis (pathogens are fungi Pestalotiopsis funerea, Kabatina juniperi, Phomopsis juniperovora). These fungi cause damage to shoots and needles that are similar in appearance. The bark on diseased shoots darkens or its color does not change. The affected needles first turn yellow, then acquire a brown or red-brown color. In the dead bark and under the epidermis of the needles, sporulations of pathogens are formed, protruding from cracks in the integumentary tissues in the form of small, scattered or crowded, dark brown, almost black round or conical tubercles. A characteristic hallmark of fungal infection P. funerea are dark brown thin strands or spirals of mature spores emerging on the surface of the bark and needles. Necrosis, as a rule, affects juniper, weakened by various unfavorable factors, leading to a decrease in its decorativeness, and less often - to death.

Diseases of trunks and branches

Rust of trunks and branches (pathogens are rust fungi of the genus Gymnosporangium). These mushrooms have throughout life cycle Several stages and sporulations are formed, which develop on different types of plants, successively replacing each other. The summer stage, depending on the type of pathogen, can take place on hawthorn, pear, rowan, apple tree, and the autumn stage on different types of juniper. Therefore, the spread of the disease is possible only if the specified deciduous species are present near the juniper.

In summer, around July, reddish or orange round, slightly convex spots with small black dots appear on the upper side of the leaves. On the underside of the spots, summer sporulation of pathogens develops in the form of brown cone-shaped outgrowths collected in groups. In autumn, spores from the affected leaves fly away and infect the juniper. In the affected areas, elongated, muff-like thickenings form on the stems and branches. After a year and a half in the spring, sporulation forms under the bark, looking like conical or oval gelatinous outgrowths, from yellow to brown, protruding from cracks in the bark. In wet weather they swell, reaching a length of 10–15 mm and a height of 7–10 mm. Sometimes smaller sporulations form between the needles and on the needles.

The disease causes gradual drying out and loss of decorative value of juniper in different categories of plantings.

In forest plantations, juniper can be affected by root rot, the causative agents of which are autumn honey fungus ( Armillaria mellea) and root sponge ( Heterobasidion annosum). The development of these rots occurs in the sapwood (peripheral) part of the roots and proceeds intensively, which leads to very rapid drying out of the juniper over a period of 1 to 3 years.

Protecting juniper from diseases includes the following measures:

• constant monitoring of the condition of plants;
• creating favorable conditions for plant growth that increase their resistance to disease;
• timely pruning of affected branches and shoots, removal of drying and shriveled specimens;
• spatial isolation of juniper from deciduous trees, which are intermediate hosts of the trunk rust pathogen;
• spring treatment of plants with fungicides to limit the spread of Schutte.

Juniper pests

Tamara Galaseva, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences

On various types About 40 species of harmful insects and herbivorous mites are known from junipers, but most of them can be found only in the southern forests of the European part of Russia, in the forests of the Crimea, the Caucasus and Central Asia.

Insects and mites damage almost all plant organs: needles, buds, shoots, branches, trunks and cones. Most juniper pests are monophagous, i.e. they feed only on junipers, but some of them can damage others conifers.

Sucking pests

Sucking insects and herbivorous mites feed on the sap of pine needles, shoots and cones. These include several types of coccids (scale insects and mealybugs) and aphids. The most common coccids are juniper scale insects, juniper scale insects and thuja scale insects, which can be found on needles, thin twigs and cones. The juniper aphid sucks the juices from the bark of the shoots.

When sucking pests multiply en masse, the needles turn brown and fall off, the plants become covered with sticky secretions, on which sooty fungi develop, giving the trees an unkempt appearance. Feeding on the juniper mite causes thickening of the needles and loss of shoots.

Needle-eating insects

These insects feed on needles, buds and non-lignified shoots. Young needles are eaten from the edges by juniper sawfly larvae. Damaged needles become reddish-brown, dry out and quickly fall off. Caterpillars of the juniper moth and four species of moths (juniper moth, smoky moth, brown-gray moth, and moth moth) destroy needles and sometimes entire growing shoots. Caterpillars of the juniper shoot moth eat away the ends of growing shoots from the inside, after which they dry out and break off.

Gall formers

Gall formers include insects that form growths or thickenings on shoots and needles various shapes and the colors within which their larvae develop.

Galls on non-lignified shoots are formed by gall midge flies, gall moths and bark beetle. The galls of gall midge flies are thickened fused conifers on shortened fused whorls. Gall moths and pine beetle moths form galls in the form of highly swollen sections of thin branches, inside which their larvae feed. Such damage reduces height growth, and severely damaged plants are stunted in growth and lose their decorative appearance.

Stem pests

Pests of bark and wood are classified as xylophages, or stem pests. A small number of species inhabit the trunks of drying and withered junipers: two species of bark beetles, four longhorned beetles, and one borer.

Pests of pine cones

Juniper cones are eaten by juniper moth caterpillars and sucked out by juniper mites. Cones damaged by the mite swell, and three ray-shaped cracks appear at their tops, from which strongly overgrown seeds protrude. Seeds in cones are damaged by two types of seed eaters: variegated and red.

Birds and animals feed on sweet juicy cones, especially during the hungry winter season.

Juniper in landscaping

Olga Nikitina

In green construction, junipers and their numerous decorative forms are used very widely. Which is not surprising, because these conifers have exceptional qualities that allow them to be used in various types of plantings.

Usage

It is believed that the most expressive plants have a spectacular crown shape: pyramidal or columnar, spherical, low-growing, dwarf, cushion-shaped, prostrate. The decorativeness of the crown is also influenced by the color of the leaves or needles, which together only enhances the perception of the plant. All these qualities are fully possessed by junipers and their decorative forms.

Evergreen needles make this tree species spectacular at any time of the year: in winter - against the backdrop of white snow, in spring - along with the young and delicate foliage of deciduous trees, in summer it stands out with its rich green needles, and in autumn it goes well with orange, yellow and red leaves of trees and bushes.

Junipers look good in single plantings or in small loose groups. Species or decorative forms that have a pyramidal, compact crown shape are used in alley plantings and hedges.

Junipers, which have an outstretched crown shape, are used to strengthen slopes and slopes; they also combine perfectly with tall trees. garden forms as padding. Since most species of this breed are light-loving, they are indispensable in rockeries and rock gardens.

Species or decorative forms that have a pyramidal, compact crown shape are used in alley plantings and hedges.

Juniper is a universal coniferous crop that is suitable for large parks and squares, and for a small garden, and for intimate compositions. In private gardens, juniper is simply irreplaceable not only because clean air, which is extremely necessary for this breed, but also because varietal diversity. By wisely using the decorative forms of junipers, you can create original compositions by combining them with many plants. It can be deciduous trees and shrubs, especially their colorful varieties, beautiful flowering shrubs, a variety of perennials and even annuals.

Junipers, which have an outstretched crown shape, are used to strengthen slopes and slopes.

Types and varieties

It is difficult to say which juniper is most in demand in green construction, but perhaps m. average has the largest number of varieties, differing in diversity:

‘ Pfitzeriana ’ - a shrub up to 2 m high and 2–3 m wide, with a very beautiful spreading crown, the ends of the shoots are drooping, the needles are bluish-green. This shape looks good on open place, can withstand slight shading, unpretentious to soils.

‘ Pfitzeriana Aurea ’ – differs from the previous form in its smaller size and greenish-yellow needles, which allows this variety to be used in mixed compositions.

‘ Hetzii ’ – a shrub with an asymmetrical, loose, spreading crown and bluish-gray needles, demanding on soil fertility.

‘ Mint Julep ’ - a slowly growing shrub, at the age of 10 it reaches 1.5 m in height, but in diameter it reaches 2–3 m. Recommended for large gardens, but very poisonous, especially the ends of the shoots.

Chinese juniper also has numerous varieties, which, as experts note, grow better and exhibit their decorative qualities in deep, fresh soils with sufficient moisture:

‘ Blue Alp s’ – a shrub up to 2.5 m high, with a compact crown, grows quite slowly, smoke and gas resistant. It has a spectacular needle color - light green, silvery on the underside. Looks good on rocky hills.

‘ Spartan ’ – a shrub up to 6 m high, with a columnar crown. The needles are needle-shaped, rich green. Perfect for solitary plantings. ‘ Expansa Variegata ’ – a shrub with prostrate shoots, not exceeding 0.5 m in height and up to 2 m in diameter. Some shoots have white-cream needles, which give the plant some piquancy.

‘ Kuriwao Gold ’ – a shrub up to 2 m high, with a rounded crown. The needles, especially on young shoots, are bright yellow. This decorative form is suitable for growing in containers.

North American junipers, for example, are no less in demand in landscape design. m. rocky and its very original decorative form with dove-blue needles ‘ Blue Arrow ’.

Red cedar also boasts spectacular varieties, for example the famous ‘ Skyrocket ’ , reminiscent of a rocket heading upward at the start. Or ‘ Gray Owl ’ - a shrub up to 2 m high, with widely spread shoots covered with bluish-green needles.

In almost every garden center can be purchased which have become very popular in Lately two varieties m. scaly– ‘ Blue Star’ And ‘ Blue Carpet ’. These dwarf shrubs differ in the shape of their crown: in the first it is compact, in the second it is prostrate. They combine very well in compositions with many plants.

Common juniper has a variety of decorative forms, which differ in growth patterns, crown shape and needle color:

‘ Green Carpet ’ – a dwarf shrub 0.3 m high, up to 1.5 m in diameter, with a dense crown formed by creeping shoots with needle-like soft green needles. It is recommended to grow only in well-lit areas.

‘ Suecica ’ – a very spectacular shrub up to 5 m high, with a columnar crown shape. Tolerates pruning and city conditions well. Most popular in single and group plantings.

‘ Hibernica ’ – a slender tree 3–5 m high, with a dense narrow pyramidal crown. The needles are bluish-green, soft. Prefers calcareous, sufficiently moist soils.

Despite their undemanding nature, junipers require care, especially young plantings, the needles of which should be protected from winter and spring damage. sunburn, covering them with spruce branches or lutrasil .

It is recommended to tie junipers with a columnar crown to prevent them from being broken by snow.

Healing properties of juniper

Marina Kulikova,Candidate of Biological Sciences

North American Indians placed tuberculosis patients in the thickets of this plant; in England, world-famous gin was made from it; in France, pork hams were smoked only in the smoke generated by burning this plant; Almost all peoples from Scandinavia to the Crimea fumigated rooms with sick people and women in labor with its branches. You probably already guessed that we will talk about juniper.

Like other conifers, common juniper produces cones, but not like those of pine and spruce. Juniper cones are very similar to ordinary berries. This metamorphosis is caused by the fact that the scales of the cones do not become lignified, as is usual in conifers, but grow together, swell and form something like a berry. In the scientific literature they are called cone berries.

Juniper is a dioecious plant, i.e. on one plant males are formed, and on the other - only female organs sporulation. Juniper blooms in May. In the year of formation, the cone berries are green, and by autumn next year acquire a black-brown color with a waxy coating, which indicates their ripeness. On one bush you can simultaneously see annual green and already ripe cone berries. The pulp of ripe berries is greenish-brown, sweetish, spicy, with an aromatic odor. The loose pulp contains 3 seeds.

Common juniper ( Juniperus communis) is currently used in official medicine. As medicinal raw materials ripe cone berries are harvested. They contain essential oil, sugars, organic acids, resins, bitter glycoside uniperin, tannins, pectins. Chemical analysis showed the presence of essential oil and ascorbic acid in the needles. Essential oil and tannins were also found in the bark.

In traditional medicine, cone berries are used as a diuretic and disinfectant for edema, kidney and urinary tract diseases, dermatitis and gout. These properties, as well as increased secretion of gastric juice and bile secretion, are manifested due to the presence of essential oil. The ability of M. vulgare essential oils to dissolve kidney stones of various natures has been experimentally proven. Biologically active substances irritate the renal parenchyma, so their use is contraindicated in cases of nephritis.

Coneberries are included in diuretic teas No. 2, 3, 4, 6. In folk medicine, their infusion is used as a choleretic, expectorant, tonic, and mild laxative, and an alcohol tincture is used for rubbing joints for pain. Modern European medicine uses an infusion of juniper berries as a blood purifier for eczema, dermatitis, scabies, furunculosis, and skin rashes. In gynecology, a decoction of cones is used for douching for colpitis and vaginitis of bacterial origin. A decoction of cones is drunk to improve appetite.

Juniper has also found application in cosmetology as a means of combating acne. To prepare the decoction, take equal parts of birch bark, birch buds and juniper cones. 1 tbsp. l. crushed raw materials, pour a glass of water, boil over low heat for 5–10 minutes, leave for 20 minutes, filter. Moisten gauze in the resulting decoction and apply it to the face (moisten it again when it cools). The procedure is repeated for 20 minutes.

Juniper thickets is a natural laboratory for the production of phytoncides that disinfect the air. Scientists have proven that 1 hectare of juniper forest releases so many phytoncides per day that they are enough to clean the air of microbes in a small town.

Since ancient times in Rus', people used juniper brooms to steam themselves in the bathhouse, which was especially practiced for radiculitis, osteochondrosis and lumbago. This tradition has not been lost even today. Essential oils released from steamed brooms have an anti-inflammatory, bactericidal effect, and improve skin condition.

Juniper oil has a pronounced bactericidal property. At the end of the 19th century, it was even used to sterilize surgical threads. Nowadays it is widely used for inhalation for diseases of the upper respiratory tract.

In some European countries, as well as in Russia, juniper fruits are used in cooking, as a spice in the production of kvass, beer, pickles, and marinades. Juniper berries not only add a unique forest aroma to poultry dishes and fight off the unpleasant odor of wild animal meat, but also, being a choleretic agent, help the absorption of these products. For 1 kg of meat you should take 6–8 juniper berries.

In Rus', barrels have long been steamed with juniper before fermenting cabbage and pickling cucumbers. A little water was poured into the barrel, juniper brooms were placed there, and hot stones were thrown on top. In the Middle Ages in Rus', juniper cones were used to prepare an intoxicating drink - juniper wort, which was served to the table of the boyars and the tsar during Lent.

Collecting pine cones late autumn, shaking them from the branches onto a pre-spread cloth. This procedure should not be carried out in damp, rainy weather, and you should not pick unripe berries from the bush. The collected cones are cleaned of needles, twigs, and insects. Dry under a canopy or in an oven at a temperature not exceeding 30º. The fruits dry out 2 times. At higher temperatures, biologically active substances are destroyed. Raw materials are stored for no more than three years in canvas bags or paper bags.

Cossack juniper (lat. Juniperus sabina) – coniferous shrub, the most common species of the Juniper genus of the Cypress family. In the wild, this species is found in forests and groves of the steppe zone, on sand dunes and rocky slopes of Asia Minor and Southeast Asia, Central Europe, the Caucasus, Primorye, the Urals and Siberia.

Planting and caring for Cossack juniper (in brief)

• Landing: in the spring, before the sap begins to flow, or in September.
• Lighting: bright sunlight.
• The soil: well-drained, light and loose, in a deep-lying area groundwater.
• Watering: infrequent even in drought: 2-3 times per summer with a water consumption of 10 to 30 liters per plant, depending on its size and age.
• Air humidity: in hot weather and drought, the plant is sprayed with non-cold water once a week in the evening.
• Feeding: in April or May - with a solution of Nitroammofoski or Kemira-lux.
• Trimming: Sanitary cleaning or formative pruning, as necessary, is carried out in spring or autumn at an air temperature in the garden of 4 ˚C.
• Reproduction: seeds, layering, grafting, cuttings.
• Pests: don't hit.
• Diseases: brown schutte, branch bark nectriosis, biatorrel cancer, Alternaria blight, branch drying, fusarium and rust.
• Properties: The shoots of the plant contain poisonous sabinol oil.

Read more about growing Cossack juniper below.

Cossack juniper - description

Cossack juniper is a dioecious creeping shrub up to one and a half meters high, growing rapidly and forming dense thickets. Sometimes it grows as a tree with a curved trunk and red-brown peeling bark, reaching a height of 4 m. The poisonous shoots of the plant contain essential oil. The Cossack juniper has two types of needles: needle-shaped, soft, pointed, erect, bluish-green, 4-6 mm long, with a clear midrib on shoots of young plants growing in the shade, and imbricated scale-like on adult junipers. When rubbed, the needles of this species, which last for three years, emit a characteristic pungent odor.

The cone berries of the plant are small (5-7 mm), drooping, round-oval, brown-black in color with a bluish bloom, most often two-seeded. The seeds ripen in autumn and spring. Cossack juniper is light-loving, tolerates drought well, is not particularly demanding on the composition of the soil and is resistant to gases and smoke. This species has been in culture for a very long time.

Planting Cossack juniper

Choose a sunny area with deep groundwater for the juniper. If you plant it in the shade, it will grow loose and shapeless. Keep in mind that bare-root seedlings can only be planted in April or September, while planting material can be planted in a container almost throughout the entire growing season. However, the best time to plant Cossack juniper is spring.

When buying seedlings, you should carefully examine their needles, and if you detect the slightest signs of disease or pest damage, it is better to refuse the purchase. You should not purchase seedlings with dry or rotten roots.

Before planting, seedlings in a container should be watered abundantly so that the roots are saturated with moisture, and exposed roots should be kept in water for several hours, after which they should be treated with a root formation stimulator. During planting, maintain a distance of at least half a meter between seedlings.

The depth of the planting hole depends on the size of the root system and the seedling's earthen ball. Cossack juniper needs a pit, the size of which will exceed the volume of the root system by 2-3 times. To fill the hole, prepare in advance a soil mixture of peat (2 parts), turf soil (1 part) and sand (1 part). It is advisable to add fluff lime to this mixture or dolomite flour, although cement dust, lime pouf, and simply ground limestone are suitable for liming. The approximate consumption of liming material is 80-100 g per hole measuring 50x50x60 cm. A layer of drainage material 15-20 cm thick is laid on the bottom of the pit, then a layer of soil mixture on which the juniper seedling is placed so that after planting its root collar is 5 -10 cm above ground level. The hole is filled with soil mixture, the surface around the seedling is compacted and watered abundantly. When the water is absorbed, a layer of peat, pine bark or compost 5-8 cm thick is placed in the tree trunk circle.

Caring for Cossack juniper

How to grow Cossack juniper on a plot

Planting and caring for Cossack juniper is carried out in accordance with the agricultural practices of coniferous plants. Juniper requires watering only in dry times, and even then infrequently - only 2-3 times during the summer. Water consumption is from 10 to 30 liters per plant. In hot weather and drought, it is advisable to spray the bush once a week in the evening. The soil around young plants is loosened shallowly after watering, while removing weeds.

Nitroammofoska applied in April or May at the rate of 30-40 g per m², or a solution of 20 g of Kemira-lux in 10 liters of water, is suitable as a fertilizer for juniper. In the winter, heat-loving plant varieties are mulched with peat, leaves or other organic matter, but in the spring this mulch must be removed to avoid rotting of the root collar.

Replanting Cossack juniper

It is better to replant Cossack juniper at a young age, because mature plant It is difficult to take root in a new place due to the fact that when digging, the overgrown root system is severely damaged. Replanting Cossack juniper in early spring, as soon as the snow melts, however, you need to prepare the bush for replanting at least six months in advance: the plant is dug around the perimeter of the crown projection, vertically cutting off too long roots. They do this so that before replanting the bush has time to form a compact root system in the area limited by you and endures the replanting less painfully.

The hole in the new location is prepared in the same order as for the initial planting, taking into account the size of the root system of the bush. Only healthy plants, without signs of any diseases, are replanted. Before digging up the juniper, tie a ribbon to one of the north-facing branches, because the north-south orientation must be maintained when replanting. Before transplanting, the seedling is dug as deep as possible to preserve as many roots as possible. The dug up bush is transferred to a large piece of dense polyethylene and its root system is treated with a root formation stimulator, after which the plant is dragged to the planting site, placed in a pit and the voids are filled with a previously prepared soil mixture. The surface around the bush is carefully trampled, then a border is made around the perimeter of the planting hole and two buckets of water are poured under the bush. When the water is absorbed, the tree trunk circle is filled with humus from under the juniper or forest litter, and three strong pegs are driven deeply at an equal distance from each other along the edges of the hole at an angle from the seedling and a bush is tied to them.

The crown of the Cossack juniper is treated with fungicide solutions until the plant takes root. Do it around the perimeter trunk circle groove and pour a bucket of water into it twice a week: the water should not get on either the needles or the trunk of the plant. Epin's solution is used as a fertilizer on the leaves; in hot weather, the juniper is covered from the scorching sun with burlap, and in the evenings the crown is sprayed with water.

Diseases and pests of Cossack juniper

Juniper, like no other plant, is susceptible to rust, so do not plant it close to apple trees, pears and other representatives of the Rosaceae family. A sign of rust is the formation on the shoots of the plant of small, half a centimeter in size, red-colored formations, reminiscent of tinder fungi. If you notice such growths, the shoot should be removed immediately by cutting it a few centimeters below the affected area. After this, you need to treat the plant with a fungicide solution. For preventive purposes, juniper is treated with Topaz or another fungicide of similar action from mid-July to mid-September every two weeks.

It affects juniper and fungal disease fusarium, or tracheomycosis wilt, causing rotting of the root system. The mycelium penetrates the roots of the plant and fills them, as a result of which the roots turn brown, the supply of nutrients to the crown stops, the needles turn yellow, starting from the lower shoots, turn red and fall off, and the bush itself dries out. Young plants suffer most from tracheomycosis. Identify this disease early stage it is difficult because it occurs in a latent form, and when the lesion is discovered, it is usually too late to take action. At the first symptoms of wilting, you need to etch the soil in which the juniper grows with a solution of Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B or Gamaira. As a preventive measure and to eradicate the infection, treat the plant and spill the soil with a solution of Fundazol. Plants that cannot be saved are uprooted and burned, and the soil in which they grew is sprayed with fungicide.

Brown Schutte develops on Cossack juniper in winter, and in the spring you suddenly find yellow and brown needles entangled in cobwebby mycelium on branches freed from snow gray, which over time becomes black-brown and sticky. Thin branches die, but the dirty brown needles do not fall off for a long time. It is necessary to remove the affected areas from the plant as quickly as possible and treat the bush with one percent Bordeaux mixture, HOM or Abiga-Peak preparations. Most likely, the problem cannot be solved with one treatment: you will have to re-spray in a week or two, and maybe more than one.

Drying of juniper branches caused by several types of fungi. The disease manifests itself by drying out of the bark and the formation of brown and black fruiting bodies on it, then the Cossack juniper turns yellow and dries out. Thickened plantings contribute to the development of the disease. It is necessary to remove diseased branches, and treat cuts and wounds on the bark with one percent copper sulfate, followed by covering them with garden pitch, Rannet paste or oil paint on drying oil. Plant residues must be burned, and in spring and autumn, preventive treatment of Cossack juniper and the soil under it should be carried out with a one-percent Bordeaux mixture or with HOM and Abiga-Peak preparations.

Alternaria blight of Cossack juniper can be identified by the browning of the needles and the formation of a black velvety coating on it. The needles fall off, the branches dry out.

Biatorrel cancer Cossack juniper is affected by mechanical damage to the branches. The fungus penetrates the bark tissue, causing it to turn brown, dry out and crack, then longitudinal ulcers form on the wood, and it gradually dies. The needles on the juniper turn yellow and dry out.

Nectriosis of branch bark determined by the formation on the affected bark of many red-brick-colored pads with a diameter of up to 2 mm, gradually darkening and drying out. The development of the disease causes the bark to die, the needles to yellow and fall, and the entire plant to dry out.

The methods of combating Alternaria blight, biatorella cancer and nectriosis are the same as those used to combat branch drying.

As for pests, they do not bother the poisonous juniper.

Pruning Cossack juniper

Trimming the Cossack juniper should be done with the utmost care, since its shoots contain poisonous sabinol oil. There have been no fatalities, but itching and pain in the area of ​​scratches received during pruning can bother you for a very long time.

By by and large, this type of juniper only needs sanitary cleaning - removal of dry, frostbitten, damaged, diseased or thickening shoots and branches. Formative pruning is used to change the direction of growth of branches, to stop their growth, or to give some special shape. When and how to prune Cossack juniper? It is better to do this in spring or autumn, when the average daily temperature is 4 ºC. Provided that the annual growth of the plant does not exceed 10 cm, you can shorten the shoots by only 2 cm. But it is much more effective and safer not to trim, but to pluck out the ends of the shoots: in this way you increase the branching of the crown, and the bush becomes more magnificent.

Cuttings are a universal, but not the most successful method of propagation for all species and varietal forms of juniper. The best time for cuttings is spring. Cuttings are prepared in cloudy weather. The upper part of semi-lignified shoots is used as cuttings, and it is very important that these shoots do not grow in a vertical direction. Separate the cutting with a sharp knife, leaving a heel on it - part of the branch or shoot from which the cutting grew. There should be a piece of wood on the heel. The cuttings are freed from twigs and needles to a height of 3-4 cm from the heel, they are immediately planted in a loose, permeable substrate consisting of equal parts of coarse river sand and peat, and the substrate is watered with sodium humate or heteroauxin to accelerate the formation of roots on the cuttings. Wooden boxes with drainage holes. The cuttings are immersed in the ground 3 cm and at an angle of 60º. The cuttings are kept in a greenhouse at high humidity. Before the buds begin to open, the temperature should be within 16-19 ºC, and as soon as the buds open, it is increased to 23-26 ºC. Protect cuttings from straight sun rays, water them regularly and spray them at least 5 times a day. Rooting of cuttings occurs in 50-90 days, but do not rush to replant them, since the first roots are very weak and easily damaged. Leave the seedlings in the greenhouse until next spring so that their root system develops and gets stronger.

Creeping Cossack juniper easily propagates by layering, and this can be done throughout the entire growing season. Use newly matured but not yet lignified branches for rooting. First you need to prepare the soil around the bush: dig it up, add acidic peat and river sand, and moisten it. The branches are cleared of needles to a height of 10-20 cm from the base, the cleared part is pressed to the ground and secured in this position. From time to time, the pinned section of the branch needs to be hilled up, at the same time, the tip of the shoot should remain above the surface. Layerings take root from 6 to 12 months. When new shoots form and grow stronger, they are separated and transplanted to a new location.

Particularly valuable varieties of Cossack juniper are propagated by grafting: a varietal cutting is grafted onto a seedling of common juniper. The cut varietal cutting is pressed tightly against the rootstock and the junction is tied with a transparent elastic tape. But more often, gardeners use the method of rooting layering or cuttings, since scions rarely take root on rootstocks.

Juniper Cossack Tamariscifolia

or Tamaris - a low-growing shrub up to 1 m high and a decorative evergreen crown up to 2 m wide, with ascending or outstretched branches, covered mainly with needle-shaped bluish needles, collected in whorls of 3 bluntly pointed, slightly bent, with a white stripe on top of the needle. In cultivation, this juniper, known since 1730, can live up to 30 years.

Juniper Cossack Variegata

reaches a height of 1 m with a crown diameter of 2.5 m. It grows more slowly than the main species. It has spread out shoots with curved tops, and the scale-like needles are white-variegated in color.

Juniper Cossack Rockery Jam

is a dwarf form of the species up to 50 cm high, while the crown diameter of the plant reaches from 2 to 3.5 m. The bark of Rockery Jam is reddish-gray, the shoots are dark green, the needles are blue-green, prickly, needle-like and scaly. This juniper grows slowly, lives a long time, and is characterized by high winter hardiness.

Juniper Cossack Nana

– male dwarf form up to 80 cm high with short shoots and tightly pressed branches. The needles of the plant are dark green, mostly scale-like. The form is highly heat and drought resistant.

Juniper Cossack Mas

– this form looks like a male plant, but fruits can be found on very old specimens. The height of Mas is no more than 2 m, but the diameter of the crown can reach 7-8 m. The bark of the plant is reddish-gray, the needles are prickly, mostly needle-shaped, bluish on the upper side, green underneath. In winter, the needles acquire a purple bloom. This form grows quickly: the annual growth rate is 10 cm in height and 20 cm in width. The plant is durable and frost-resistant.

Juniper Cossack Blue Danub

- a decorative form of Austrian selection, obtained in 1961: a wide and low plant with curved tops of branches. The needles are often scale-like, but inside the plant they are needle-shaped and light gray-blue.

Juniper Cossack Glauka

- a spreading shrub no more than 1 m high and up to 2 m wide, with scaly and needle-shaped blue-green needles, which acquire a reddish-green color in winter. The cone berries of this form have a bluish tint.

Juniper Cossack Arcadia

- a horizontal shrub only 40 cm high and more than one and a half meters wide, with soft, long and bright light green needles. The shoots of the plant are located almost horizontally. The form is characterized by high winter hardiness.

Juniper Cossack Broadmoor

- a male form, similar to Tamaris, but with stronger and more delicate shoots with small gray-blue needles. The crown is flat, up to 3.5 m wide, but with a vaulted middle.

Juniper Cossack Buffalo

- also a form similar to Tamariscifolia, but wider and lower, with light green needles. Buffalo is distinguished by exceptional winter hardiness.

Juniper Cossack Cupressifolia

– female form, which is a low-growing creeping shrub up to half a meter high with a wide crown, outstretched shoots, bluish-green needles, often scaly, pressed, but needles can also be found inside the lower part of the crown. This winter-hardy plant bears fruit abundantly. It has been known in culture since 1789.

Juniper Cossack Erecta

reaches a height of 2 m. Its obliquely ascending branches form a pyramidal crown. The needles of the plant are dark green, mostly scale-like. Erecta is heat resistant and tolerates dry air well. This form was developed in Holland in 1891.

Juniper cossack Fastigiata

- a plant with a narrow columnar crown 5-6, and sometimes 8 m high. Its needles are green, mostly scale-like.

Juniper Cossack Femina

– female form up to 1.5 m high with a crown diameter of 4-5 m, with reddish-gray bark and dark green shoots. The needles are dense, dark green, mostly scaly, poisonous, with an unpleasant odor. Femina grows for a long time, but is characterized by frost resistance and durability.

. If you want to decorate a lawn next to a building, then the best neighbors for Cossack juniper can be other coniferous plants - low-growing spruces, weeping larches or mountain pines.

Large-leaved perennial trees and large garden flowers do not go well with juniper.

Creeping or horizontal juniper is a dwarf shrub, so it does not grow higher than 10 cm; its needles are light green. The plant loves open sun; only common juniper can grow in the shade and not lose its decorative properties. The shrub easily adapts to any type of soil and does not require a lot of moisture; it grows quietly in rocky areas.

Description of creeping juniper

Creeping juniper is considered one of the most valuable among the rest, as well as among the rocky corners. Although the plant is called creeping juniper, the species is not at all similar to other representatives that we are used to seeing in our forests.

The branches of the plant spread along the ground, they are densely covered with either scales or shortened needles.

With the help of creeping juniper, you can complement compositions from other types of plants; the needles are pleasant to the touch, soft, and can have a variety of shades, which is why it is so valued by amateur and professional gardeners. The plant is not very demanding on growing conditions and, in turn, creates pleasant atmosphere, emitting a subtle pine aroma.

Now the plant is cultivated all over the world. Under natural conditions, it grows only in North America, wrapping the banks of rivers and lakes, the slopes of mountains and hills with its branches.

Horizontal shrubs have many varieties; consider those that are successfully grown by gardeners:

• The Douglas variety is the lowest of all creeping representatives. As it grows, it forms a low carpet, the needles have a pronounced scaly structure and a steel-blue hue.
• The feathery variety has also become widespread in our country. It is slightly taller than Douglas and its needles are slightly longer, they are separated from the shoot and have a needle-like shape. In autumn, both varieties turn brown, but this should not frighten the gardener.

Junipers develop best in full sun, but shaded areas can be planted with common and creeping varieties.

On permanent place the plant is planted in April-May or August-September:

• In order not to damage the root system, the juniper is replanted with a clod of earth.
• The depth and width of the planting hole are chosen depending on the size of the plant and the earthen ball on the roots.
• If the soil is wet, then drainage is pre-installed.
• For juniper, it is recommended to use broken brick in a layer of up to 20 cm.
• The plant is unpretentious to the soil, but the most favorable soil would be a mixture of sand, turf soil and peat in a 1:1:2 ratio.

Creeping juniper species are not recommended to be planted close to each other, because they grow very quickly in width and can grow on top of each other and block access to light. Therefore, you need to proceed from the specific variety and its growth capabilities.

Fertilizing is carried out in the spring using nitroammophoska or a special fertilizer for coniferous plants; it is enough to use 40 g per sq.m.

While the plant is young, adults are quite drought-resistant. If the weather is hot and dry, then it would be a good idea to spray the plant; this is done in the evening.

The roots need to be mulched with gravel, pine bark, wood chips or pine needles. The surrounding land must be cleared of weeds.

From snow load Only tall junipers protect it; if the needles are bright, then they are covered from the bright spring sun; in the fall, the needles are covered with green mesh or white spunbond.

Junipers are not pruned, only to remove dry or diseased branches. In winter, you need to make sure that dry leaves do not fall on the needles, otherwise they may fall off.

If you do not comply with the conditions for planting and caring for the juniper, it will continue to grow successfully, but will lose its original appearance.

Therefore, you need to follow a few simple rules:

• In extreme heat, the plant takes refuge in the shade.
• To avoid burning in summer, the plant is watered and sprayed abundantly (in the early morning and evening).
• Spraying is not done directly on the juniper, but at a distance so that the branches do not bend from the pressure of the water.
• To prevent snow from damaging the shape of the plant, the branches are strengthened with any devices.
• For winter and early spring, the plant is covered with lutrasil or spruce branches.
• At the beginning of spring, dry branches and those that extend beyond the desired crown shape are pruned.
• In July, junipers can be pruned; some varieties are pruned twice a year: at the end of October and the end of April.
• The distance from the house must be at least 2 meters.

Despite the fact that juniper takes root in any soil, it is still not recommended to use loamy or heavy clay soils.

Juniper does not like oppression, so when planting it today you need to think about how much space it will occupy in 10 years. When the shrub is replanted, it is advisable to cover the soil with sawdust or peat with a layer of up to 10 cm. As necessary, the soil around young plants should be loosened.

Any species of juniper is a dioecious plant, which means that propagation is carried out either vegetatively or by seeds. Decorative forms of juniper do not transmit their properties through seeds.

Therefore, cuttings are used:

• The juniper propagation procedure begins with cutting cuttings.
• To do this, in April-May, take an adult plant that is at least 8 years old and cut annual cuttings; it is better to take a cutting at least 10 cm long.
• The needles from below are cleared off to about 5 cm, leaving a little old wood at the end.
• To begin with, the cutting is placed in a growth stimulator solution, which can be easily found in any garden store.
• Then it moves into the soil, half of which consists of sand and half of peat.
• The stalk is covered plastic film and moves into a dark room.
• It is important to prevent drying out, for which the cuttings are periodically sprayed.

If all the conditions have been met, then within a month and a half the first roots will appear on the cuttings.

At the beginning of July, the rooted cuttings with a lump of earth are transplanted into open ground and left in this place for the winter. A shelter from the cold is being built, many people use spruce branches. It will take 2-3 years for the juniper to strengthen its growth; only after this time can the plant be transplanted to a permanent place on the site.

Growing coniferous plants is much more difficult than deciduous ones.

The main feature is that the needles evaporate moisture even in winter, and for this there must be a strong and healthy root system. Therefore, evergreen plants, in particular conifers, should be planted better in autumn so that they have time to take root before winter.

More information can be found in the video.

Common juniper "Schnewerdinger Goldmangel" / Juniperus communis "Schneverdinger Goldmachangel"
Beautiful shape of juniper and coloring of needles.
Height 2 m, diameter 1 m. Multi-stemmed form with deviated main shoots. Young shoots with golden-yellow needles. The needles are short, prickly, and not densely spaced. Slow growing.
Winter-hardy, frost-hardy. Shade-tolerant, but best grown only in sunny places.
Prefers moderately dry soils with an acidic or alkaline reaction. Resistant to urban climate and harmful emissions.
Planted in filled planting holes, watered abundantly after planting. Mulch with peat, sawdust, wood chips in a layer of up to 5-8 cm. Pruning is carried out to restore the appearance or remove some dead branches.
Planted on rocky hills, rockeries, terraces, in compositions with shrubs and perennial herbaceous plants.

Tree or shrub. Height is 5 - 10 m, crown diameter varies greatly, trunk diameter up to 0.2 m. The crown is dense, cone-shaped (in trees), ovoid (in shrubs), narrower in male specimens than in female specimens. The bark is gray-brown, fibrous, the shoots are reddish-brown. The needles are needle-shaped, triangular, pointed, up to 1.5 cm long and 0.1 - 0.2 cm wide, green, with a whitish stomatal stripe and a waxy coating on the upper side. Stores on branches for up to 4 years. It blooms in May, the male “flowers” ​​are yellow, the female “flowers” ​​are green. The cones are round, 0.6 - 0.9 cm in diameter, immature - green, mature - bluish-black, with a waxy coating. It grows relatively slowly. Annual growth is 10 - 15 cm in height, 5 cm in width. Lives up to 200 years.

Annual growth is 10 cm. Propagated by seeds, which usually sprout within a year, and by cuttings in February and June. Tolerates dryness and high air temperatures well. Shade-tolerant. Winter hardiness is high. Grows successfully in urban environments. Decorative. Used in green building. Tolerates haircuts well. It is of great importance as a soil-protective species. The wood is heavy, durable and aromatic.

Agricultural technology: light-loving, but tolerates slight shading. It is undemanding to soil fertility, can tolerate slight salinity, but grows better on sandy and calcareous, sufficiently moist soils, and does not tolerate soil compaction. Frost-resistant. Tolerates haircuts well. It grows slowly. Does not tolerate transplantation well, especially large specimens taken directly from the forest. Can grow on excessively flowing wet soils. Can be bred anywhere in the forest area. In the steppe zone it grows poorly, suffers from dry winds and excess salts in the soil. In urban conditions it is relatively gas-smoke resistant. Reproduction by seeds and cuttings, more rarely by layering and grafting.

It is used as undergrowth, especially in birch and pine garden plantings, in landscaping - in the form of small clumps on lawns and as edges. All forms look great both individually and in group plantings. For securing dry slopes and creating hedges. Forms with a narrow columnar crown in the north can replace pyramidal cypress. Pyramid shapes are suitable for formal gardens, dwarf and creeping for decoration garden plots. It should be kept in mind that better development junipers reach in places where their crown is covered on the southern side by light shadow from other trees.

Common juniper "Gold Cone"

Appearance: free-growing, narrow-conical, dense bush up to 1.5 - 2 m in height at 10 years of age, shoots are straight, vertical, tips slightly drooping. Flowers: dioecious. Fruits: bluish or black pea-sized berries, non-poisonous when ripe. Needles: needle-shaped, pointed, triangular, golden-yellow, yellow-brown in winter.

Soil: dry to fresh, acidic to alkaline, on any well-drained, not too fertile and not too heavy substrate.

Requirements: sun, thins out in the shade, tolerates high temperatures, is sensitive to snow pressure, so in winter it is recommended to tie the shoots to avoid them bending, winter-hardy.

Root system: deep, weakly branched, superficial on heavy soils, weakly fixed, not wind-resistant.M orosis-resistant.

Common juniper "Green Carpet"
It is distinguished by a crown spread over the ground and needle-shaped bluish-green needles. A shrub with a creeping crown, reaching a height of 0.1 m and a diameter of up to 1.5 meters by the age of 10 years. The buds are located 1-3 per node, evenly along the shoot. The needles are needle-shaped, with a sharp tip, green with a bluish stripe, arranged in whorls.

Winter hardiness is high. It is not picky about soils and grows in a variety of soil types. Drought resistant. Light-loving, but tolerates slight shading. Does not tolerate soil compaction well. Does not tolerate excess salts in the soil. Does not tolerate air pollution. For better development, it is recommended to plant in places where the crown on the south side is covered by light shade from other trees, with sandy soils and with moderate watering. It is recommended to lime the soil before planting. Suffers from dry winds. It tolerates pruning well and branches well afterwards.
Used for rocky gardens and securing dry slopes, as well as for lining taller shrubs. Recommended for landscaping children's and health care institutions, due to the strong phytoncidal properties of needles.

Common juniper "Hibernica" / "Hibernica"

for small compositions, in group plantings, in hedges with dense planting.

Appearance: a small tree, 3 - 5 m tall, with a narrow columnar or narrow pyramidal crown, with branches tightly pressed and directed upward. .Leaves: short, soft needles, bluish-green on both sides in spring, dark green in autumn. Grows slowly But.

Soil: undemanding to soil. It can grow on poor rocky and dry sandy soils, as well as in wetlands. Does not tolerate soil salinity well and needs protection from cold northern winds. Sensitive to smoke. Durable. Drought resistant.

Frost resistance: very frost-resistant, tolerates shade, suffers from spring burns.

Common juniper "Repanda"

An original shape with evenly spaced branches creating a wide circle effect. Height 0.5 m, width 2-2.5 m. Flat shape with horizontal, wide-protruding side shoots, which are evenly distributed in all directions. The needles are dark green, needle-shaped, soft, densely located, and become Brown color. Slow growing.
Winter-hardy, frost-hardy. Shade-tolerant, but best grown only in sunny places. Prefers moderately dry soils with an acidic or alkaline reaction. Resistant to urban climate and harmful emissions.
Planted in filled planting holes, watered abundantly after planting. Mulch with peat, sawdust, wood chips in a layer of up to 5-8 cm. Pruning is carried out to restore the appearance or remove some dead branches. Planted on rocky hills, rockeries, terraces, in compositions with shrubs and perennial herbaceous plants

Location: should be planted in sunny places. In the shade, plants grow loose and lose the charm (decorative advantages) of their form. Common juniper tolerates some shade.

Planting: the distance between plants depends on the variety and the expected effect, from 0.5 to 1.5 - 2 m for tall forms of Virginia juniper and Chinese juniper with a spreading crown. One bush of Cossack juniper occupies an area of ​​20 m2 after 10 years. The planting depth depends on the clod of earth and the root system, usually 70 cm - with soil added to the hole. Drainage if necessary: ​​broken brick and sand, in a layer of 15-20 cm. Soil mixture: peat, turf soil, sand (2:1:1), ratios may vary, for example, Siberian juniper prefers sandy soils, Central Asian species and Cossack juniper respond positively to soil liming, Virginia juniper grows better on clay soils and chernozem. All junipers are undemanding to soil fertility.

Care: in spring, in April - May, nitroammophoska is added, 30 - 40 g/m2. Common juniper, Chinese juniper and scaly juniper do not tolerate dry air well; Juniperus virginiana and others are drought-resistant, but grow better in soils of average moisture. In dry summers, it is recommended to water 2-3 times per season and spray once a week in the evening. Loosening and mulching are carried out shallow after watering and weeding in young plantings. Mulching with peat, wood chips or sawdust in a layer of 5 - 8 cm immediately after planting, and for heat-loving cultivars - in winter. Haircut and pruning depend on the type and location of cultivation. Dry branches are mainly removed. Junipers with a columnar crown are tied for the winter, since the branches often break off under the weight of the snow cover. Most of the recommended species and forms are not covered, with the exception of the first winter after planting young plants.

Reproduction: by seeds, which in some species ripen in the year of flowering, in others - only in the second year. After sowing, seedlings appear in 1-3 years. At spring sowing a monthly stratification is required at a temperature of 20-30°C, then 4 months at 14-15°C. For more efficient germination, the seeds are cleared of pericarp before sowing and scarified (partially breaking the hard covering). It is recommended to add a little soil from under juniper plantings to the seeding furrows in order to introduce mycorrhizae. Cultivars can only be propagated by green cuttings taken head-on from young plants. Creeping forms of junipers are propagated by layering. Particularly valuable ones are propagated by grafting.

Use: very decorative in the form of single plantings and small groups in a park landscape and among stones. They look especially elegant against the backdrop of shallow snow. Tree-like and tall junipers are used in parklands to create small groups and, especially, as tapeworms. Low-growing and creeping ones are used for securing and covering slopes and slopes, rocky hills and rock gardens. Some species can be used for hedges and shelterbelts. Application is limited to slow growth. Junipers suffer greatly from soot and smoke, which limits their use in industrial centers.

Partners: goes well with heathers and erica, with ground cover forms of pine, roses, ornamental grasses and wild perennials.