Cleaning concrete from oil. How to properly clean a concrete floor and make it stronger Cleaning with chemicals

Concrete floors, when poured with high quality, are very reliable and durable. They serve as an excellent basis for almost any floor coverings or they themselves can act as an exploitable surface. But they also have a significant drawback - the formation of large amounts of dust, which often becomes a serious problem. Is it possible to remove dust from a concrete floor with your own hands?

Not only is it possible, but it is simply necessary! For this purpose, there are a number of techniques that can be used both individually and in combination.

Before moving on to consideration of dust removal technologies, it would be useful to understand the reason for the formation of dust on a concrete floor. It lies in the very structural structure of the hardened concrete.

This is a pronounced conglomerate mixture, which includes completely dissimilar materials, differing not only in size, but also chemical composition. The silicate crystal lattice, formed during the maturation of cement stone, intersects with large fragments of insoluble sand or gravel filler.

A look at a section of concrete under a microscope allows you to see its pronounced porosity - from the most microscopic to large pores filled with a gel cement substance, air or water. There are a lot of them chemically active unbound substances, which, on the one hand, are unnecessary ballast, and on the other, cause erosion processes, especially in the upper, most fragile layers of the screed.

Plus, the process of concrete maturation is always associated with the release of cement laitance to the surface, which, when hardened, forms an extremely fragile layer, which was often the main source of dust formation.

Thus, in order to prevent dust formation, you can either strengthen or remove the upper unstable layer, or bind it with additional crystalline formations or a polymer structure. Hence the three main approaches to solving the problem of dust removal - surface hardening with topping, grinding or treatment with special impregnations. Very often these technologies are used in combination, which gives the most effective results.

Why is dust removal required?

• First of all, if surface erosional processes are not stopped, they will eventually affect the deeper layers of concrete, which will lead to partial or even complete destruction of the screed.

• Cement dust poses a serious threat to human health - it can provoke the development of diseases of the respiratory system, eyes, skin, and cause allergic reactions.
• Dust getting into parts and components of machinery and equipment can cause rapid wear and tear and even quickly fail.
• A dusty floor is very difficult to clean and always looks unkempt.
• Even if you plan to lay a decorative covering on a screed, the formation of dust will certainly make itself known over time with crunching or squeaking. Therefore, experts advise carrying out dust removal on any floors, without any exceptions.

Having understood the essence of the problem, we can move on to considering dust removal technologies.

Strengthening a concrete floor with topping

To make the meaning of this tricky word immediately clear, we can draw a direct analogy with the well-known “ironization” of a freshly poured concrete screed when it is sprinkled with dry cement, which is rubbed into the surface layer. Alas, the resulting layer is not durable and deteriorates quite quickly.

"Ironing" the old fashioned way

Special compositions - toppings - do not have these disadvantages. They consist of cement, special binding additives and filler in a very fine fraction, which determines both strength and appearance surfaces.

• Quartz sand can be used as a filler. This strengthening is quite suitable for rooms with light or medium load. Often this topping is given different shades - this allows you to give the concrete semi decorative.
• For floors where increased load is planned, it is better to use corundum topping. It will strengthen the screed by approximately 1.8 times, and the resistance to abrasion will double.
• Metallized is considered the most durable topping, but it is used only in industrial construction, where floors experience extreme mechanical or vibration loads.

How to harden with topping

Application topping– a rather labor-intensive and responsible process that requires, among other things, the use of special equipment. The screed must be properly reinforced, strengthened as much as possible using a vibrating lath. The thickness of the concrete layer must be at least 70 mm, and its grade must not be lower than M300.

• The technology consists of uniformly scattering dry topping onto the surface of the poured screed and rub it in thoroughly. A special trowel is used for this - so-called. « helicopter» .

Trowel - "helicopter"

• You can distribute the composition over the surface manually, but it would be better to use a special dosing cart.

• The first application and grouting are carried out 3–7 hours after pouring the screed, so that it has time to initially set (the footprint of a person’s shoes should be no deeper than 4–5 mm). Contribute approximately ⅔ of the calculated amount topping. As soon as the composition begins to become saturated with moisture, it is immediately rubbed down with a “helicopter”. It is important to saturate the composition with cement laitance as much as possible and not to dry out the surface. Additional moistening of the surface with water is strictly prohibited.

• After the first grout, without taking any break, immediately add the remaining third of the topping, and, after complete saturation, grout thoroughly.
• When the floor surface has set so much that the shoe footprint is no more than 1 mm, finish grouting is carried out. All that remains is to treat the screed with a special water-retaining compound, and the work can be considered completed.

Such a floor, once fully matured, will have a durable surface on which dust will never form.

Approximate consumption topping for rooms with average load – from 3 to 5 kg per 1 m².

Dust removal of floors by sanding and polishing

The essence of this technology is the removal of the unstable, erosion-prone top layer, with the expectation of opening the lower, truly strong layers of concrete. This solves several problems at once:

• The remaining minor defects of the screed are eliminated, it acquires the desired smoothness and evenness.
• Increases surface adhesion to any mortars and mixtures.
• If processed old surface, this will allow you to remove areas of dirt or remnants of old coatings.
• The water resistance of the screed increases and dust formation is practically reduced to zero.
• The floors are given an aesthetic appearance.

Sanding is recommended to precede any further actions - pouring polymer floors, installing decorative coatings, painting work, etc. Often, grinding and polishing floors are the final stage - after them the surface will be ready for use.

Sanding can be done dry or wet.

• Sanding on a wetted surface is usually used when installing mosaic floors with marble or granite filling. The resulting surface is characterized by almost perfect evenness, close to polished. The disadvantage of the technology is its high labor intensity and low productivity due to the rapid clogging of abrasive elements with wet sludge, which is very difficult to remove in a timely manner.
• Dry sanding is the most widespread. It allows you to visually control the process and does not require time for the floor to dry after treatment before moving on to other operations. The only negative is the abundant formation of dust during work. This will definitely require connecting a powerful vacuum cleaner to any sanding equipment.

How to grind a concrete floor

If you have to sand the floor in a large area, you will need a special mosaic grinding machine.

This is a fairly heavy installation. with an electric drive, the working part of which is one or more rotating disks with removable diamond or corundum segments installed on them - cutters, Frankfurts, cups. The segments also differ in their grain size - for gradual grinding.

Such machines are very expensive equipment, but many construction or service organizations rent them out for a fee. If you plan to sand the floor, you can check this possibility in advance.

In cases where renting such equipment is impossible or simply impractical, you can also use hand tools. There are special grinding machines for concrete. In addition, you can purchase an attachment for a regular grinder and grind a small area with its help. Of course, much more time and effort will be spent.

"Grinder" adapted for grinding concrete

Sanding can be carried out both on a freshly laid floor and on an old base.

1. In the first case, the first pass is made no earlier than 5-7 days after pouring. This will allow you to remove the top layer of cement laitance, revealing stronger layers for better maturation.

The second, finishing pass is made only after the concrete has completely matured - no earlier than four weeks.

2. If work is carried out on an old concrete base, then first of all its readiness for grinding is assessed. “Weak” areas – peeling, crumbling, looseness – are unacceptable. If there is such a thing, you will have to start with repair work using epoxy compounds. In case of extensive damage, it will be more profitable to fill in a new screed.

To avoid unpleasant “surprises”, you should carefully check the surface for the presence of protruding reinforcement fragments or those located in the upper layer - an encounter with metal can result in injury or equipment failure.

So, the grinding itself is carried out in three main stages:

• The first is the removal of the fragile surface layer, maximum exposure of the filler, and preliminary leveling of the surface. In the case of an old screed, in addition, removal of areas subject to surface erosion, as well as remnants of old paint or bitumen coatings. The grain size of the segments used at this stage is 30 - 40 units

• The second stage (recommended) is additional strengthening impregnation with special compounds. More details about this in the next section of the publication.
• The third stage is the final one. After the impregnating composition has completely hardened, abrasive segments with a grain size from 100 to 400 units are used sequentially. (sometimes even smaller ones). As a result, the concrete coating receives excellent strength qualities, has a smooth and even surface, dust-free surface. This floor can be considered completely ready for use.

• Sometimes, in case of special need, they additionally resort to polishing the concrete base. Using diamond segments with grit 1500 ÷ 3000 units, you can get an almost mirror-like floor surface that is absolutely dust-free, water-resistant, resistant to any chemicals and extremely easy to clean.

Dust removal of floors with impregnating compounds

From the point of view of carrying out work independently, this technology is the simplest. Nevertheless, it shows good results, especially in combination with other dust removal methods.

The essence is to introduce special impregnations into the porous structure of concrete various types actions - mineral or polymeric (organic).

1. Mineral compositions(fluates) cause chemical reactions in the upper layers of concrete that neutralize free components and create additional insoluble crystalline glassy bonds, which, intertwined with the crystal lattice of cement, provide high-strength and dust-free surface.

• Until the recent past, the main substance in such impregnations was sodium silicate. However, such compositions have serious disadvantages: the duration of completion of chemical processes (sometimes up to six months), the need to very thoroughly rub in the composition and the mandatory washing of the surface after complete absorption of the impregnation. If excess composition remains on the surface, efflorescence may form in these places.

• Modern mineral impregnations are made on the basis of lithium polysilicate. They penetrate even into the smallest pores, and the chemical transformation processes take only 10-15 days. One impregnation is enough for the entire period of operation of the screed, while applying the composition does not require any effort, rubbing or washing the surface.

2. Organic impregnations fill the pores of concrete with polymer molecular chains, creating additional bonds in the thickness of the material and increasing its strength and wear resistance. They come in several types:

• Acrylic - used on floors where heavy loads are not expected, or the surface will be covered with a floor covering. They can also be used for temporary (1-2 years) dust removal of the floor.
• Polyurethane - more versatile and durable. Gives the surface additional water-repellent qualities. Disadvantage - strong bad smell during application and polymerization.
• Epoxy is quite expensive, but very reliable and durable. They are often used where impregnations with a pungent odor cannot be used (for example, when carrying out renovations in one of the rooms of an apartment or house).

Application of dust-removing impregnations

Any of the impregnations, regardless of the component composition, must be accompanied detailed instructions on preparation (if dilution with water or preparation of a two-component impregnation is required) and the rules for its application. Compliance with these manufacturer's recommendations is mandatory, otherwise the required dust removal and hardening effect may not be achieved.

• Before using the impregnation directly, the floor is thoroughly inspected again. If there is a need, it is carried out minor repairs epoxy putties, spread with brushes or squeegees, or applied using a long-haired padding polyester roller. It is important that the impregnation is distributed as evenly as possible, without leaving areas where the composition can be quickly absorbed, and without the formation of puddles.

Dust removal technologies using silicate and organic impregnations are somewhat different:

• If a sodium silicate composition is used, then the primary impregnation stage should be about 40 ÷ 60 minutes. During this time, the impregnation on the floor should become viscous. It is slightly diluted with water and again distributed evenly over the entire surface. Some types of compositions will also require the use of a trowel or scrubber machine to thoroughly rub into the surface.
• 20 minutes after re-distribution, all excess impregnation is removed using a squeegee or rag. The floor is thoroughly washed with clean water.
• There are fewer complications when using lithium impregnations. They are simply applied to concrete base with the required flow rate (it will be indicated on in the instructions for use). After the composition has been completely absorbed and the surface has dried, the process can be considered complete.

• When removing dust with organic impregnations, it is recommended to apply them in 2-3 stages, so as to achieve maximum saturation of the concrete base.

Video - removing dust from a floor with lithium impregnation

And lastly, regarding the possible timing of the work. Silicate impregnations can be used on both old and freshly laid concrete, but not earlier than one day after pouring. The use of organic impregnations is possible only on a fully matured base.

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Concrete floors are different - smooth, rough, decorated with decorative inserts and patterns. However, despite their solidity, they require periodic maintenance. Therefore, washing concrete floors is a mandatory procedure in both residential and non-residential premises. And it has a number of features that we will talk about.

First of all, washing will vary depending on where you do it - indoors or outdoors.

Advice! Do not use cleaning compounds based on strong acids - they can ruin both the color and surface of the floors.

Inside the house

The cleaning algorithm is as follows:

1. Use a mop with a dry, soft brush to sweep all the dirt and dust off the floors into the dustpan.
2. Wet cleaning stage – dilute water with cleaning agent in a bucket. Dishwashing liquid is perfect. Do not use bite or ammonia! These substances can ruin the surface of your floors.
3. You will also need a large cotton rag or a special napkin or a rag for washing floors.
4. Wet a rag in a soapy solution and wash the floors as you wish - by hand or using a mop.
5. Don't forget to wipe the concrete dry with a dry cloth.

Advice! Polish indoor concrete floors with wax every 3 years. This will keep them looking perfect for much longer.

On the street

If you need to clean concrete floors outdoors, it will be easiest if you use these simple instructions as your guide:

1. Take a broom with a synthetic broom. Using a dustpan or bag, remove all debris from the concrete floor.
2. Connect the watering hose, turn on the water at the appropriate power and, section by section, wash the surface of dirt. The water pressure is enough to sweep away the dirt. If you do not have a special spray nozzle, you can create a “shower effect” by holding it with a large and index fingers the tip of the hose.

Advice! To ensure that your outdoor concrete floor is reliably protected from harmful weather conditions, do not forget to cover it with a special waterproof and waterproofing material every 1-3 years.

Individual contaminants

Now let's look at how to deal with specific types of dirt on concrete floors.

Dye

We will remove paint from the concrete floor as follows:

1. Cover the contaminated surface with washing powder. Leave for 10 minutes.
2. After time has passed, move on to cleaning by soaking a stiff brush in hot water.

Another way ( good if the floors were dirty outdoors):

1. Dilute bleach and pour it thickly onto the stain. Also leave for 10 minutes.
2. Use a stiff brush to remove dirt.

Earth

The following products will help remove soil stains that are difficult to wipe off - but only if the concrete floor is still wet:

• "Pemolux";
• "Domestos";
• "Comet";
• "Mr. Proper";
• any other abrasive powder, the price of which is not very high.

Anhydrous product

Effective substance to combat small drops of machine oil ( for example, a little of it leaked out of a car parked in the garage). Waterless concrete floor cleaner can be purchased at any hardware store.

Oil

To avoid the hassle of scrubbing " complex» stains, we advise you to remove it immediately. The following will help remove oil from a concrete floor:

• Multi-layer paper towels - perfectly absorb any liquid.
• Keep some absorbent on hand in case your garage has a concrete floor and there's a chance of a spill. large volumes machine oil is great.
• If you have nothing else at hand, you can fill the oil stain with cat litter, covering the stain with a thick layer. By the way, this product is a favorite of cleaners at gas stations.
• Baking soda and sawdust can also be used as an absorbent.

How long should the absorbent be left on the contaminated surface? From several hours to several days - it all depends on the scale " disasters" You should also replace it with a fresh one as the oil is absorbed.

If there is still contamination, and it is not fresh, then the following solution will help you:

• 1 glass of one of the detergents: “Pril”, “Cinderella”, “Ideal”, “Progress”, “Drop”, “Sorti”, “Fairy”, “AOS”, “Forsazh”, “Bref”, etc. .
• 6 liters of hot water.

"Drop" "Sorti" "Add"
"Cinderella" "AOC"

Using a stiff brush ( It’s best to use metal for cast iron frying pans) and the resulting solution, as well as mechanical action, begin to fight the oil stain. Perform intensive cleaning for 15-20 minutes.

Most likely, the first time the result will be “50/50”. Sprinkle the waterless cleaner from the previous step on the stain and continue with the wire brush again. Try to change the direction of friction.

You can also sprinkle the under-removed stain with this waterless solution overnight and continue cleaning the next day.

Cement

Well, it also happens that you accidentally dropped its cousin, cement, onto concrete. In this case, the stain must be eliminated as quickly as possible - before it has time to set. Therefore, first of all, try to dilute it with water as much as possible, and only then wash the cement from the floors. Removal is carried out using a scraper or a technical knife. Minor consequences can be removed with a wet cloth.

If the substance has time to set, then you cannot do without a chemical solvent for cement stains. But its use here is twofold - it can just as easily damage a concrete floor.

Some people advise removing set cement using nails and a hammer - picking off the dirt piece by piece.

You can watch the video in this article for visual tips.

Products for polished concrete

A polished floor requires more care than a regular floor. Therefore, a number of detergents are produced specifically for it, which are distinguished by the content of the same sealant material. It is needed to strengthen the top layer of the coating. Let's present well-proven products in the table.

Advice! Besides choice the right remedy To clean polished concrete, it is also important to choose the right tool - do not use hard brushes or synthetic materials.

In conclusion, here are some tips that you may find useful:

• The floor's shine is quickly restored by a high-speed buffer with a white pad.
• In order to preserve the aesthetic appearance of the floor for a long time, as well as improve it, you must remember to varnish the surface every 3-4 years.
• Even on stain-resistant varnished concrete floors, it is best not to leave spills or spills for long. Try to eliminate the opportunity as quickly as possible.

That's all simple and effective advice, telling you how to clean a concrete floor. As in other cases, any contamination - be it a stain from machine oil or cement - must be dealt with as soon as possible.

Firstly, is it cement or concrete? Many people use these words as synonyms. Who knows where the difference is?

Cement

Cement is a powder made from substances such as lime, clay, shale, sand, iron, aluminum and other materials. It is also a key component used in concrete.

Concrete

Concrete is the hard material you end up with after mixing cement, sand and water. Thus, you have to clean the concrete floor of the garage, and nothing else.

Some people think they're amazing because they can keep a garage floor clean, much cleaner than, say, your neighbor's, but even they can't protect the floor from the couple of stray stains that always pop up here and there.

If your husband is craving a clean concrete garage floor, below are some cleaning solutions designed specifically for removing concrete stains and, of course, tips for removing them.

Keep your concrete garage floor clean

If you have any oil stains or drink spills, remove them first (you may have to start this process a day or two in advance). In the instructions below you will find ways to combat oil, gasoline and other deposits from the surface of hardened concrete floors.

Cleaning your garage floor should start at the beginning of the day so that you can get everything back into the garage by the end of the day. Before cleaning your concrete floor, remove anything that can be removed from your garage and then sweep it.

Turn the water on full blast and spray it over the concrete. If you don't have a good spray nozzle on your garden hose, press down on it with your finger to get a pressurized stream of water. Start at the back of the garage and work toward the exit.

Use a long-handled stiff brush to clean the concrete floor after doing the above.

Difficult soil stains, for example, can be easily removed using any abrasive powder, be it Comet, Mr. Proper, Domestos, Pemolux, or something else, but only while the floor is wet.

Rinse off the concrete floor with a hose. Remove excess water with a broom.

Recipes for Cleaning Concrete Garage Floors

1 glass detergent(Cinderella, Progress, Ideal, Minute, Pril, Pemosuper, Help, Fairy, Aos, Drop, Sorti, Forsage, Bref, Dr Max), and others.) 6 liters of hot water.

Allow the concrete floor to dry completely before you move everything back into the clean garage. If you spill oil on your concrete floor, clean it up right away.

First, let's be clear: oil stains must be removed immediately, at all times, under all circumstances. Now you have a clean garage, remember this.

We would recommend keeping a supply of paper towels on hand. They are thick, highly absorbent with just the right amount of firmness, and are great for cleaning up any spills.

In case you spill some oil, they will come in handy. Otherwise, use any absorbent material you have on hand to clean up the spill.

Use cat litter to catch any remaining oil.

If you simply wipe an oil stain, some oil may remain on the surface. To remove this “little”, use cat litter. Make sure to use grit, it is a great absorbent and will also help you remove any remaining oil stain.

If you use litter, cover the spill area completely.

Leave the filler for some time, from several hours to several days, so that it can absorb the liquid, the time varies depending on the amount of oil spilled. Remove dry debris with a broom.

Note: As mentioned above, this process can take up to several days. You may need to update the filler. You can also use sawdust or baking soda to absorb oil and gasoline.

You might have seen on the roads where an accident occurred how tow truck drivers use cat litter to remove oil stains from the road surface. Isn't this the most best review in favor of its effectiveness?

You can ask the gas station what they use to keep industrial concrete floors clean. And they will tell you that they use fine cat litter. They sprinkle it on any gasoline or oil stains, leave it overnight, and then sweep it up in the morning.

There are a few things you could try to remove stubborn oil and gasoline stains. These methods may require repetition and take up to several days.

Detergents and water

First of all, you need to clean the concrete garage floor from dry dirt. Scatter washing powder over the stain, there is no need to skimp, cover the stain completely.

Add warm water into a bucket, wet a stiff brush and scrub, back and forth. Repeat as needed. Wipe the area and let it dry.

How to clean a concrete floor without water

Waterless cleaners can be purchased at any hardware store. Clean the stained area and remove dry dirt and debris.

Sprinkle waterless cleaner onto the stained area (follow instructions). If the stain covers a large area or is very old, you will need to reapply the product every 5-7 days until the stain disappears.

Let's say you left your car in a garage for a few days. And while she was standing in the garage, a little oil dripped from the car onto the concrete floor.

Let's assume the stain remains and has aged. After using the waterless cleanser for the first time, you will notice a clear improvement. The stain will become much lighter.

We also recommend wearing a paper mask and safety glasses. All it takes is a breath of wind and the cleaning product will turn into a small cloud of dust. You may read on the product label that it is an eye and throat irritant. You won't want to check this on own experience, believe me.

Removing old stains

You can remove old oil stains by using the method of local moistening. You can try it as an experiment, but usually the results are there.

To do this you need to use a stain remover, a stiff brush and time. Pour stain remover onto the stain. Enough to cover the stain completely.

Then scrub with a very stiff brush - something like a kitchen wire brush. cast iron frying pan, For example. This may take 15-20 minutes, but you will see some results, although you probably won't be able to remove the stain the first time.

Once you've completed rehydrating the stain, dust it with waterless concrete cleaner and scrub the floor with a stiff brush (use a back-to-front and left-to-right motion, alternating). By doing this, you can remove the old gasoline or oil stain.

It makes sense to repeat the procedure in the evening, leave the anhydrous product on overnight again and then remove it in the morning.
Keep in mind that the technique may vary depending on the stain and its complexity, as well as the exposure of the stain to, say, sun rays and so on.

With these solutions, you can clean your concrete garage floor and make it look like new.

Concrete is a durable and versatile material. This is the basis and standard of flooring. Often concrete floors are left without additional finishing. The concrete floor can be smooth or rough, maybe with unique design and painted.

Whatever type of concrete it is, in order to constantly keep it clean and increase its durability, it is necessary to properly monitor it.

In this article you will learn how to clean a concrete floor. It doesn't matter whether it's a floor in your home or office, whether it's outdoor or indoor, if you follow these instructions, your floor will last you a long time.

In our company you can order cleaning after the renovation of your apartment.

Method one - determine the strategy

Method two - caring for interior concrete floors

Method Three - Cleaning External Concrete Floors

Method four - removing stains from concrete floors

Hints

Apply a special protective wax to your concrete floors every three years.

Contact the professionals of our cleaning company.

Precautions

What do you think about this? What else can you add to the above?

Cracks in concrete appear quite often. This happens for various reasons: due to wear of the material, increased loads or improper filling. However, it is quite possible to repair a cracked concrete floor. To do this, you don’t even need to hire outside specialists. Repairing a concrete floor with your own hands is not at all as difficult a task as it might seem at first glance.

Any coating deteriorates over time. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor all changes that occur and make repairs on time. In this case, the concrete floor or platform will serve for a long time and faithfully.

Stages of concrete repair

The work needed to bring cracked floors back to normal can be divided into 2 stages:

1. Preparing the floor.
2. Applying fresh concrete patches over potholes.

Each stage will require care and accuracy in performing the work. In addition, today there are many additives and special solutions that will help prepare a concrete floor for repair, and then ensure the long life of the patches.

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Preparation of concrete floors: mechanical cleaning

Stages of concrete floor repair: preparing the floor for repair, applying cement to the crack.

To properly prepare a cracked concrete floor for the intended repair, it must first be cleaned of loose and loose pieces. To do this you will need the following tools:

1. Wire brush.
2. Chisel.
3. Hammer.
4. Brush or broom for sweeping.

Work to prepare a concrete floor for repairs is carried out in the following order:

1. Cracks are treated with a wire brush to remove loose pieces.
2. The problem area of ​​the floor is thoroughly swept.
3. The edges of the cracks are tapped with a hammer to detect places where there are hidden defects.
4. Using a chisel and a hammer, cracks are repaired (defective edges and fragments are removed).

The further sequence of actions depends on the size of the embroidered cracks. If their number is small and their depth is no more than 5 cm, then mechanical cleaning of concrete floors can be done. In this case, the last step in preparing concrete floors for repair will be to cover the cracks with a special compound. This is done in order to strengthen adhesion (gluing) between the old floor covering and the concrete patch. Typically, 3 types of compositions are used:

If dirt has become embedded in the concrete, it can be cleaned using chemical or mechanically. If cracks have formed, they need to be patched.

1. Acrylic primers for concrete.
2. PVA primers.
3. Epoxy compounds.

It should be noted that acrylic and PVA primers differ in the method of application from epoxy compounds. The first ones are applied exclusively on dry concrete. Filling potholes is done only after the primers have dried. However, if epoxy compounds are applied during repairs, the concrete must first be wetted. The patch is applied over potholes before the epoxy dries. Acrylic and PVA primers can be applied in two layers: this improves adhesion. Primers can be applied with a brush or roller.

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Preparing floors for renovation: chemical cleaning

If the number of cracks is too large or the depth of the cracks is more than 5 cm, and the concrete surface crumbles literally at hand, mechanical cleaning cannot be limited to one.

Chemical cleaning must be carried out, which will not only reveal hidden microdefects, but will also help to avoid the appearance of a “cold seam” at the interface between the old concrete floor and the new patch.

Diagram of the area of ​​concrete to be removed.

It should be noted that tension always arises in the area of ​​the “cold seam” due to difficulties in redistributing the load from the upper layers of concrete to the lower ones. This significantly reduces the lifespan of the patch. Do-it-yourself chemical cleaning (or chemical milling) of the floor is done using special compounds. The most famous of them is “HIMFREZ Cleaner”.

It should be noted that it is always used in conjunction with “HIMFREZ Activator”, which is applied after the cleaner and enhances the adhesion between old concrete and fresh concrete patch. The first composition is intended to open the micropores of concrete, identify microdefects and remove the surface film, and the second to improve adhesion.

When using the activator, it is no longer necessary to coat the concrete with primers or epoxy compounds. Before you begin chemical treatment of concrete floors, you must first perform a complete mechanical cleaning of the floor. It should also be noted that all work with KHIMFREZ compounds must be carried out in compliance with technical safety rules. To do this, you will have to stock up on a mask, goggles, a hat and overalls in advance. During work, avoid contact of the compositions with the skin or mucous membranes.

After mechanical cleaning, “Khimfrez” is applied to the crack

After mechanical cleaning, “HIMFREZ Cleaner” is applied to the cracks. This is done with a brush. Then you need to wait exactly 1 hour, and then quickly walk along the edges of the cracks with a wire brush.

If pieces begin to separate from the concrete, this means that there are many microcracks in the concrete that were opened by this composition. In this case, you will have to re-treat the defect area with a cleaner. Then you need to wait another 1 hour and immediately start applying HIMFREZ Activator to the cracks. 1 hour after using the activator, you can immediately begin the next stage of repair - applying patches.

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Concreting floor cracks

To complete this stage of repair you will need the following tools and auxiliary materials:

Scheme for repairing a crack in a seam.

1. Ready frames for cracks.
2. Container for mixing cement-sand mixture.
3. Sandpaper (coarse grain).

It should be noted that crack frames are usually made from wooden slats, with an edge no larger than 2 cm. The dimensions of the frames must be more sizes cracks 2-3 cm on each side. The process itself will not take much time. First, the cement-sand mixture is mixed. As a rule, the ratio of cement and sand is either 1:3 or 1:2. A 1:3 mixture is used in cases where additives are added to the cement to increase the wear resistance of the mixture. However, if you do not plan to use additives or plasticizers, it is better to choose a cement to sand ratio of 1:2.

The cement itself must be grade M400 or M500, otherwise the patches on potholes will not last long. When mixing the mixture, pay attention to the details. It is advisable to choose fine- or medium-fraction sand, clean, without lumps and random large fragments. The water for mixing the mixture must also be clean, without the slightest impurities, as they lead to cracks in the installed patches. However, you should not add too much water: the patch mixture should not run off the shovel, but fall off it in large fragments.

To ensure that the repaired floor lasts a long time, reinforcing elements such as fiberglass or fiberglass can be added to the patch mixture. Both 900 g and 600 g fiber packs are available for sale, so purchasing a small amount of fiber will not be difficult. When added to cement-sand mixture Reinforcing fibers significantly increase the service life of patches, their abrasion resistance and impact resistance. In addition, a plasticizer (complex additive) can be added to the mixture. For example, M5Plus, which combines well with reinforcing fiber and improves the wear resistance of patches. The sequence of work when applying patches during repairs is as follows:

1. Installation of the frame.
2. Applying cement to the area of ​​cracks.
3. Removing the protruding upper part of the patch using a grinder (grinder) or sandpaper.

Removal of the protruding part of the patch should be done only after the cement has completely set. Considering that the thickness of the patch is relatively small, it is quite enough to wait 7 days and then process the patch with a grinder or sandpaper.

After the DIY floor repair is completed, you can go over the floors with compounds that help protect the concrete from corrosion. This procedure is called concrete dust removal. Thin-layer protective compounds (Elanor-PU, Neomer-LP, Amphor-formula) and polymer protective compounds (Retroplay, Elanor-ED Grunt, Elast-Pu) are used for it. All of them are applied with a brush in 2 layers. Dust removal will help further increase the service life of repaired concrete floors. If desired, the supplied patches can be even more durable than the base on which they are placed.