Hilling up the bush trunk. How to cover a young grape bush for the winter
1. How often to water grapes.
In industrial vineyards, the irrigation season is considered to be the period from April 15 to October 15. The interval between waterings is 15 days, for a total of 7-9 waterings per season. In small vineyards, you should try to time watering to peak plant needs:
The first watering is immediately after dry tying up the shoots (combined with fertilizing with ammonium nitrate - the soil is cold and the plants may experience nitrogen starvation).
The second - unscheduled watering is carried out after pruning, if within a week the sapling has not started (or is going weakly), which means that the bushes are not in order (they dried out during the winter or froze).
The third watering - as soon as the shoots reach 25-30 cm - during rapid growth, moisture is simply necessary (feeding with ammophoska or Kemira will help support growth).
The fourth watering - before flowering - lack of moisture at this time will lead to sparse bunches and poor pollination (mag-boron, zinc salts and potassium sulfate and superphosphate will improve pollination; microelements can be duplicated by foliar feeding).
Although the greatest need for grapes for water is observed after flowering. You should not water the grapes at the beginning or during flowering - this will cause severe shedding of the flowers.
The fifth watering - berries the size of a small pea - increases the size of the berries and, therefore, the yield. At the same time, it prevents peas (feed with Diammophoska or Kemira autumn before watering).
The sixth watering is to soften the berries. At this time, the last moment for the berries is when you can influence the weight of the crop. In addition, lack of moisture will lead to delayed ripening (feeding with superphosphate and potassium sulfate + ash infusion).
Most large-fruited varieties Between the fifth and sixth watering, it is advisable to carry out additional watering to maximize the appearance of large fruit.
The seventh watering is after harvesting with the addition of double superphosphate.
Eighth to ninth - if necessary (drought, hot winds).
On sands, water in small portions, but 1.5-2 times more often. On heavy clay soils less often, but more abundantly.
Do not pour water directly onto the bush, especially when irrigating young grape plantings. When watering a lonely growing bush, a groove 15-20 cm deep is made around its head (stepping 30-40 cm away from it), into which water is poured. Young vineyards need to be watered along furrows or ditches dug around the bushes. It is not recommended to irrigate the site by continuous flooding, since this consumes a lot of water, the soil is moistened unevenly, heavy soils float, as a result of which their air conditions deteriorate.
It should be noted that you should not water the grape bushes too often and abundantly, as in this case their roots may rot, and the grape harvest will be insignificant due to leaching nutrients from the soil. A sign of soil waterlogging is vigorous growth of shoots, abundant shoot formation, very poor ripening of the vine, delayed harvest ripening, insufficient coloring of berries dark varieties grapes, watery juice.
And, conversely, weak growth of shoots, shrinkage of berries and clusters, low yield of completely healthy bushes when all agricultural practices are performed indicate a lack of moisture in the soil and the need for its watering.
2. What mineral fertilizers Do grapes need them and at what time to apply them? Does he need manure? Is it possible to fertilize with a solution of chicken manure?
Fertilizers can be taken not only those that you wrote. Crystals, Polyphids, Terraflexes, Aquarins... they'll all work.
The main rule is nitrogen only in the spring, before flowering. Before and during flowering - microelements, after - complex, with increased content phosphorus and potassium, before and after harvesting - phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. And chicken manure and mullein are good 1-2 times in early spring with the obligatory addition of superphosphate (1-2 matchboxes). Apply manure in the fall for digging.
Fertilize with microelements three to six times. There is no need to spray them specifically; combine treatment with fungicides (Ridomil, Ordan, Tilt, Tiovit) with the addition of microelements.
This will enhance both the effect of poisons and the absorption of microelements.
3. Is it necessary to remove all stepsons and how long should they be in order to remove them?
In industrial vineyards, the stepsons are broken off when they reach half a meter in length. As a result, you save a lot of energy - only two breaks per season! Productivity there is the tenth thing - due to the area there will still be a lot of grapes.
We can’t wait - the sooner you remove unnecessary stepchildren, the better. Therefore, we have to look at the stepchildren once every two weeks. But you can’t break them out - you can damage the developing bud, or stimulate the appearance of new stepsons. It is better to pinch, leaving 2-3 leaves on the stepson... In the northern regions, where there is little light, 1-2 leaves are left.
But on a prosperous bush there are never too many stepsons. Stepchildren appear in large numbers on vigorous and underutilized bushes. If the bush is normally loaded with crops and shoots, the shoots usually develop weakly, and some winegrowers do not remove them, leaving many on the bush, pinching the shoots to the bunches.
100% removal of stepsons is carried out in cases where their increased growth is observed, and, as a result, a strong thickening of the bush. It is believed that stepsons have a positive effect on the development of eyes and the formation of inflorescences in them.
If the main shoots were damaged due to spring return frosts, then pinching should not be carried out at all. New shoots will form from strong stepchildren, which will ensure the development of the bush and even a harvest, albeit smaller in size and with a significant delay. Many varieties bear fruit on early shoots, and some produce close to normal yields. These are, for example, Delight, Delight oval (Baklanovsky), Delight nutmeg, Kishmish radiant, Timur, Victoria, Rusbol, Kesha-1, Type of the Century ZGTU, Shahinya Iran.
There is even a method for harvesting early stepsons. Its essence is that if the stepson receives maximum nutrition, he usually lays down the brush. Shoots damaged by frost are pruned to 3-4 nodes, the bushes are given intensive feeding, and if necessary, watering and all barren shoots are removed before flowering. The harvest is almost full, although later.
The buds of pinched stepsons are capable of producing second-order stepsons, which can already be cut at the root.
If the foliage is damaged by mildew or hail, the bush itself, at any time and very quickly, makes up for the deficiency of leaves in relation to the roots using the stepsons. It is the stepsons that make it possible to quickly form strong bushes, speeding up the entry of the bush into fruiting by a year.
The eyes of strong stepsons are more fruitful than the eyes of fattening vines. Therefore, on the thickest vines it is better to leave short arrows from the stepsons.
Ripe stepsons also have one more advantage: their buds always awaken before the eyes of the main vine. Short stepson knots on the vines - good way delay the opening of the eyes in the spring and avoid frosts.
There are some “technological” varieties that are not inclined to produce strong stepsons. These are, for example, Flamingo, Augustine, GF Blagovest, as well as some low-growing technical varieties - Bianka, Pervenets Magaracha.
Most table grape varieties in home gardens and summer cottages need protection from low temperatures in winter time. Therefore, such grape bushes are covered with earth or films, slate, etc. for the winter. But, in addition to grape varieties sheltered for the winter, grape varieties that tolerate severe frosts well are grown, especially in courtyards, in wall crops, such as Lydia, Isabella, Alpha, Bako, Russian Concord and many others. Fruit vines and buds of these varieties can withstand frosts down to -30°C and even lower, and trunks and sleeves with perennial wood can withstand even greater temperatures winter temperatures. Unfortunately, root system Such frost-resistant varieties, especially in the upper soil horizons, do not have such high frost resistance; the roots can withstand a decrease in soil temperature only to -10-12°C. If a lot of snow falls in winter, then freezing of the roots is unlikely; it will be worse if there is no snow, but the frosts are severe and persist for a long time. Therefore, in order to avoid damage to the roots of unsheltered grape varieties, you need to hill them around the trunk within a radius of 1-1.5 m with a layer of earth 10-15 cm thick. But it is better to take the earth not from tree trunk circles, but take, for example, from the garden. Even more effective is mulching the soil around the grape bush with straw, leaves, sawdust, etc. When such protection is provided to the root system of grape bushes that are not covered for the winter, even in very severe winters, it is not damaged by frost.
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In recent centuries, varietal grapes, coming from warmly abundant climatic zones, have become widespread among homestead farms located in various climatic zones. Including in latitudes with average temperatures recorded in the winter season at minus 15 °C. And many manage to grow grapes in regions with harsher winters, with nighttime temperatures in the winter season down to minus 40 °C.
The most important thing in growing grapes in regions with moderate and severe winters is how to properly cover the grapes with soil for the winter. And when should you start doing this to prevent freezing or drying out? grapevine.
Covering methods
Regardless of the climatic zone, it is necessary to cover both young shoots of grapes and already ripe bushes, both hybrid forms of plantings and unstable varieties.
And no matter how you start replanting grape seedlings on your plot, you even need to cover complex-resistant varieties, because it is impossible to predict all the vagaries of winter weather.
- There are several ways to cover vines and bushes with soil:
- hilling of shoots;
- semi-shelter of bushes;
complete cover of bushes.
The main thing is to take into account all the vicissitudes of winter weather and the climatic features of the region of your residence and carry out the appropriate procedures in order to protect your grape plantings. Which will not fail to thank their owner, in the next fruitful season, with a generous and rich harvest.
The method of covering grapes is selected depending on the climate of the region
Hilling up shoots
Hilling is the simplest procedure among those intended for hiding grapes for the winter. The grape vines of the first year of planting are subjected to hilling. Around the sprouts, it is necessary to build a 20–25 cm mound of earth, which, together with the snow cover, will provide fairly acceptable conditions for wintering.
And slightly older bushes require a little more attention. They must first be covered and covered with straw, rags, plastic bottles or worn out buckets, and only then covered with earth in a layer of 10–15 cm. If the plants have suffered from diseases and pests, they should be sprayed with a solution before hilling copper sulfate
three percent concentration. And don’t forget to generously water the soil around the sprouts before backfilling - the moist soil will become a source of heat for the plants, because under the earthen embankment the moist soil will not freeze and will retain heat for a long time.
You can hill up grapes using straw
If it is necessary to protect grapes growing in climatic zones with an average temperature in the winter season of at least minus 15 °C, it is enough to use a semi-shelter. In this case, the grape bushes are covered with paper, rags, straw - constructing something like a cocoon 3-5 cm thick from this material, and the grape bushes tied with twine are draped with this. And the base of the bush, above the root system, is covered with earth through the same hilling.
It is necessary to cover the base of the shoots with earth in the same way as in the case of hilling - it is necessary to build an embankment around the trunk 20–25 cm high. But it should be taken into account that grapes covered during cold weather in this way, in the case of higher frosts than expected, may get injured. So it is better to take precautions and carry out a complex set of works to completely cover the grape bushes with soil.
Half-covering grapes will not save them from very severe frosts
Anti-crisis measures during semi-shelter
If, however, the work to completely cover the grapes with soil was not completed, and the winter turned out to be harsh, you can take emergency measures to save your vineyard. To do this, you need to prepare a certain amount of earth in advance, in the fall, and store it in a place inaccessible to open frosts. And when the weather forecast predicts frosts at a critical level for semi-covered plantings, it will be possible to begin a rescue operation. It is necessary to clear the snow from a plot of land next to the grape bushes. Then press the grape bushes draped in the fall to the cleared soil, pin them to the ground with staples, and make a 20–25 cm mound of earth over them. And on top of this mound, make a mound of the snow that was on that area before clearing .
To be completely calm, you can light fires next to these mounds at night. Fortunately, you won’t have to do this for a long time, because in the latitudes we are talking about, such frosty nights are not so frequent and numerous.
Complete cover of bushes
Complete covering of grapes with soil is a whole complex of agrotechnical measures aimed at ensuring safe wintering of the grape crop. Used in regions with average statistical differences temperature conditions V winter period from minus 15 °C. The lower the temperature, the higher above the bushes to be covered it is necessary to build a protective shelter - approximately at the rate of 1 cm per 1 °C, which goes into minus. That is, if in the region, in winter, there are frequent temperature events of minus 40–50 °C, then the mound above the grape bushes should be at least 50 cm of soil.
Complete covering of grape bushes with earth is carried out when all the leaves have fallen from them, or, in the case of early winter, after deliberately ridding the bush of foliage.
It is necessary to keep the grape bushes for several days in frost of 5–7 °C in order to harden the vine before the onset of prolonged cold weather. Ripened in frost and hardened, the vine acquires a light brown color. Complete coverage procedures should be carried out in dry weather. The earth intended for shelter must be thoroughly dug up and loosened, clods of earth must be broken and loosened. Loose soil does not freeze quickly.
For shelter, the vine should be pressed to the ground
Complete shelter in frost-prone latitudes
If the shelter is carried out in regions subject to severe frosts, it is necessary to dig grooves 15–20 cm deep in the grape rows. After the bushes formed into bouquets are placed in these grooves, they must be covered with a 15 cm layer of earth. Dry leaves are poured on top of this layer , sawdust, reeds, straw and other plant debris appropriate for such a procedure, in a layer no less than the layer of earth above the covered grape bushes. And then the earth is again poured on top of it all, making up the final layer of shelter, equal to 15–20 cm.
Some experts draw attention to the fact that with this method of covering, some of the eyes die due to heating. And it is advised to first cover the bushes pressed to the ground with plastic burlap, and then pour the first layer of earth on it. With this method, in warm winters
, you can periodically open the edges of the grooves and make vents so that the plants are cooled and ventilated.
The disadvantage of completely covering the vine is damage to some of the grape eyes.
Moderate latitudes, where snow cover of 40–60 cm is the norm in winter, have natural capabilities for creating complete shelter. And the material for such a shelter will be snow. To create a shelter, it is necessary to dig grooves along the plantings with grape bushes 35–45 cm deep, or initially plant them in such grooves.
And then, with the onset of winter, stretch the bushes in these grooves, pin them or press them to the ground. And the falling snow will do its job - it will become a natural cover for the grapes protected from frost.
In more southern regions, if there is no complete confidence in the method of covering called a floor shelter, it will be enough to press the grape bushes to the ground and cover with a layer of earth of 20–25 cm. Beginner winegrowers doubt whether to cover the grapes. This work must be carried out in those areas where frosts are 15 degrees and above. Often gardeners do not know how best to do this. Let’s immediately make a reservation that not all grape varieties require winter shelter
. For example, ancient varieties Isabella and Lydia do not need to be insulated. If possible, the vines should be bent to the ground, and they are not afraid of frosts up to 35 degrees. Less frost-resistant varieties
needs to be covered. In order for a grape bush to winter well, it needs to prepare for frost. The vine must have time to ripen well. The bushes should not be overloaded with crops; In the fall, watering is applied in a timely manner.
They can withstand much greater frosts than the roots, which freeze even at 7 degrees below zero in snowless winters. Therefore, it is very important to cover the roots of grape bushes. Moreover, the soil should not be taken next to the bush, but at a distance of at least a meter. Young, fragile bushes tolerate frosts worse.
Another question that worries many gardeners: when to cover grapes? Experienced winegrowers advise carrying out this work after frost sets in at 5-6 degrees, when the vines have time to harden and be well prepared for winter. In addition, there is a possibility that light frosts, alternating with rain and thaws, will have a negative impact on the vine, which is wrapped too early, which may become propped up.
If frosts have not set in at the beginning of November, the grapes must be covered in the middle of the month, since severe frosts are possible at any time. Many gardeners cannot decide how to cover their grapes for the winter. It depends on the method you choose.
- You can cover grapes in three main ways:
- hilling;
- partial cover;
Partial shelter does not protect against this since only the upper part of the crown, bent to the ground, is covered with earth, the rest is covered with improvised materials. How to completely cover grapes for the winter? In large agro-industrial farms, they are laid in prepared trenches and covered with earth on top. On small personal plots this method is rarely used.
How to properly cover it in a summer cottage? First, we inspect the grape bush, leaving only well-ripened shoots. There should be no more than 10 buds left on these shoots; the rest should be removed. We lightly tie the grape bush into a bundle, so it will be easier to lay it down.
It is important to prevent contact of the vine with the ground, so we place planks, slate and other material under it. We lay the vine and lightly pin it to the ground. Now very important point: how to cover grapes for the winter, what material to choose?
For this purpose, you can use old things: blankets, bedspreads, burlap. Usually in the spring, after use, they are carefully folded and stored until autumn. Covering must be done carefully so as not to damage the kidneys. The top of this structure is covered with film. It is important to leave gaps at the ends of the film so that the grapes do not ripple.
Next, the film is pressed to the soil, bent around several rods and sprinkled with earth. If it is not possible to bend the vine to the ground, you can simply wrap it and attach it to the arch. But the roots of the grapes must be covered.
Another good way solves the question of how to cover grapes for the winter. Small bushes are covered with dry leaves, and a sheet of slate or boards are placed on top.
Much depends on how the grape bush overwintered. If you cover your grapes correctly, in the summer they will thank you with a generous harvest.
In the fall, harvesting ends in the vineyards and workers begin protecting the seedlings from the weather. Winter is very stressful for grapes, and if they are not properly protected from frost, you can lose the grapes completely. For the grapevine, frost is not as dangerous as icing. The temperature difference that occurs on sunny winter days also has an extremely negative effect on grapes. A sharp drop in air temperature can lead to partial or complete freezing of the buds and stems of the grapevine.
Particular attention should be paid to seedlings that were planted in open ground in the fall, not in the spring. You can protect them from frosty days by covering them with simple structures.
Among experienced winegrowers there are three practices: different ways sheltering grapes for the winter:
- hilling,
- half cover and
- semi-shelter of bushes;
Hilling- the easiest way to protect grapes from winter cold. In this case, the root and lower part of the shoots are protected. Workers create a dense mound of earth, up to 25 centimeters high, around each vine. Hilling is used, as a rule, for plants in the first year of planting. This option of work does not require much effort, materials, or time, but it also has its drawbacks. Hilling grapes leaves unprotected buds on the surface, which can die in severe frosts.
Some winegrowers treat their vineyards like their own children and do everything possible to make the plants feel as protected and comfortable as possible. Grapes, like humans, can freeze and die from frost in the cold season. If a winegrower independently purchases winter workwear for managers, then the plant must be taken care of with triple attention.
Half-cover method grapes helps protect the part of the bush crown located at the soil surface. The covering layer is usually 2-4 centimeters; materials such as straw or thick burlap are used. The disadvantage of this method is the same as the previous one - the high probability of freezing of part of the grape bush.
The most reliable way to protect grapes from winter cold is full cover. Before this, it is necessary to carry out a certain series of actions. Grape growers wait until the end of the natural leaf fall of the grape bush, trim and shape the bush, tie the shoots together and bend them to the ground. In this case, burlap and warm old clothes are used as covering material, all this is covered on top plastic film. The main thing you need to pay attention to is to avoid contact between the kidneys and the film. If the winter happens to be warm, Sun rays the surface of the shelter will heat up and the buds will begin to smolder. The entire resulting structure is pressed to the ground with iron arches, and sometimes earth is also added (a layer of no more than 15 centimeters).
