Preparing the base for a screed in a wooden house. Screed on a wooden floor under tiles: how to pour

Wooden floors are quite reliable and durable, but they themselves do not last forever. Over time, it becomes necessary to additionally lay the screed on the prepared wooden base.

Concrete screed is usually applied to a wooden floor only in cases where it is necessary to level it under some kind of coating.

If the wooden floor cannot be completely restored, then this leveling method is used.

In fact, the screed is considered as a surface element, the base of which is intended for a concrete floor with subsequent laying of the covering. the main objective Screeds are the leveling of the floor surface. Depending on what kind of coating should be, the following types of screed can be distinguished:

• for wooden floors;
• for installation of a heating system;
• dry and semi-dry screeds;
• concrete screed.

Often done before laying ceramic tiles, polymer floors, or when installing a heated floor system, but we will look in more detail at the features and laying of concrete screed on a wooden floor.

Before you begin laying a concrete screed, you should prepare the necessary materials and tools:

At large volumes leveling work, a concrete mixer is indispensable.

• plastic film;
• sand;
• cement;
• epoxy putty;
• acrylic sealant;
• plasticizer;
• construction beacons;
• moisture-resistant primer;
• polyurethane foam;
• steel mesh;
• hammer;
• level;
• mixer for mixing the solution;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• screws;
• putty knife;
• roller, brushes;
• scotch;
• with sand.

Sequence of laying concrete screed

The technology for laying concrete screed includes the following steps:

The most accurate level markings can be obtained when using laser level, but it is quite possible to carry out alignment using beacons using a regular building level

• to start work, it is necessary to dismantle the old covering and install additional logs, since after the pouring process the screed will become much heavier and will sag greatly;
• if there are rotten boards, then they need to be removed and new ones laid in their place. This replacement is usually carried out on old floors;
• seal cracks and irregularities. When large gaps form, polyurethane foam is used, the joints are coated with acrylic sealant, and then smoothed with epoxy putty. Epoxy putty is also used when filling small gaps between boards;
• the next stage is sealant treatment. This operation is performed after the putty and foam have dried. Next, apply a waterproofing primer using a roller or brush in two layers. This primer is used to simultaneously cover the lower part of the walls (approximately 10-15 cm). Then a waterproofing film is laid with a spare overlap of 10 cm on the wall. After that, a steel mesh is placed on the film and screwed in place;
• Next, markings are carried out and beacons are installed. The most accurate level markings can be obtained when using a laser level, but it is quite possible to carry out alignment with the help of beacons using a regular building level;
• start preparing the solution, observing the following proportions: the capacity of clean sand is 3-4 parts, cement grade 400 is 1 part. Then add to the solution clean water and special plasticizers that provide the screed with the highest quality.

Kneading cement mortar carried out in a large plastic container, using a drill and a special mixing attachment. After thorough mixing, the solution is left to settle for a short time, after which it is mixed again.

Material consumption should be approximately 15 kg/sq.m. m with a screed thickness of 1 cm. In the absence of a plasticizer, you can add regular washing powder so that a handful of powder corresponds to 100 liters of water.

Using the beacons as a guide, the solution is poured onto the floor. It is necessary to fill the entire floor at once, since it is unacceptable to perform this operation in parts.

The beacons are removed from the set solution, and the same solution is poured into the formed grooves. That's it, the screed is ready.

Leveling with self-leveling mixture

Any finishing coating must be laid on a smooth and level surface. This problem can be solved with self-leveling mixtures, the solution of which easily spreads and is distributed around the entire perimeter, forming a smooth surface.

Preparation of the solution

Work on leveling a concrete floor using a self-leveling mixture must be carried out very quickly, because its drying speed is high

Why is it done on a wooden floor? The reasons why similar question on the agenda are: the need to dismantle sections of the floor to replace internal structural elements; leveling for the purpose of laying over the old laminate or carpet covering; arrangement of level and solid foundation under tiled cladding. Each specific case may have its own nuances related to the design of the ceiling. But in general, level it and prepare it for installation of a new finishing coating can be done in two main ways. We will talk about them in this publication.

This method is called dry, since it uses sheet materials attached to the frame or surface of the old floor (depending on the situation) mechanically, using nails or self-tapping screws.

Note! Alternatively, the sheets can also be attached with glue, but for this the base must be perfectly flat. And this method will no longer be dry, but combined.

Dry screed installation options

Here are the materials mounted on the frame that can be used in a dry screed.

Table. Review of materials for dry floor screed.

In most cases, sheet materials are mounted according to wooden joists, but this material tends to rot and is highly susceptible to linear expansion. Therefore, some masters prefer instead wooden beam use a galvanized steel profile for the frame, which is usually used when installing drywall.

Only here, to compensate for unevenness of the base and provide the necessary indentation, instead of direct hangers, they use steel corners 3mm thick as shown in the photo. This frame turns out to be more rigid and, importantly, does not creak like a wooden one. In this way, you can mount not only gypsum fiber boards, but also, as you can see, . You just need to use self-tapping screws with conical heads so that they are well recessed into the thickness of the sheet.

What other ways can you attach GVL for a dry screed?

Note! As for the gypsum fiber sheet, this material can be mounted on both expanded clay backing and expanded polystyrene sheets. Adding, of course, for wooden base not so convenient, because it may simply be too heavy for him, but as for PPS slabs, this is an excellent option. However, if the old floor has large unevenness, it is impossible to properly level it using this method.

Calculator for calculating the required materials for dry screed

Enter the requested information and click "Calculate the amount of backfill"

Room area, m²

To what height is it planned to raise the base floor base, mm

AT A HEIGHT OF 110 mm AND MORE, AN ADDITIONAL LAYER OF GVL IS REQUIRED!

For an additional layer, GVL will be used:

It is planned to use a screed to equalize the difference in the level of the slab, mm (if necessary)

Adjustable systems for dry floor leveling

Speaking about dry leveling methods, one cannot fail to mention the relatively recent technology for installing an adjustable floor base. The point is that sheet material it is installed not on the frame, but on vertical threaded elements, with the help of which you can level the floors both on slabs and on joists.

This method has many advantages, so its popularity is only increasing. This is low labor intensity and, accordingly, high speed of work; the ability to level fairly large differences; high leveling accuracy; low loads on the base, which is especially important in the case of old beam floors.

But the most important thing is that any communications can be hidden in such a structure and elements of a heated floor can be installed. There is one minus, the same as with all other options - the floor can creak. A sound insulator placed inside also does not solve the problem, so you will either have to be prepared to endure unpleasant sounds, or choose a different alignment method.

Option 2. Installation of a monolithic screed

In general, experts do not recommend leveling wooden floors with the help of. It may be too heavy for the old flooring, which will accelerate its destruction. And this order of arrangement of layers violates the immutable rule of construction: the base must be stronger than the coating in contact with it. Therefore, you need to make sure that they do not contact each other.

The most important thing is proper preparation of the base

However, in special cases it sometimes becomes necessary to fill the screed according to wooden floor. Since these materials have completely different properties, the main task that will have to be solved is to make sure that the mobility of the wood does not interfere with the long-term service of static concrete.

Important! During the first 4-5 years of operation, boards are most susceptible to shrinkage phenomena, so only old concrete can be poured wood flooring. In a new one, as a result of the loss of moisture from the wood, after some time cracks appear and the linearity of the boards changes.

The last stage of preparing a wooden base, if it is not a painted floor, will be treatment with a biocidal-hydrophobic primer, which will slow down the process of its destruction and extend its service life.

Screed on a wooden floor is not the best solution for installing a new floor. However, despite this opinion, if all technologies are followed, it is actually feasible. In addition, there are wooden floor structures that, being in good condition, are easier to fill with self-leveling flooring than to redo the entire floor structure.

This article will be useful for those who are building their own Vacation home. Having made a self-leveling floor over a wooden one, it is easy to lay tiles in the bathroom or kitchen at home.

Also for owners country houses information about septic tanks from concrete rings. You can get information about septic tanks and place an order.

Wooden floor structures

Before you start talking about screeding a wooden floor, you need to understand the designs of wooden and plank floors.

It hardly makes sense to screed a wooden floor that is laid on joists and a 220 mm thick floor slab. The thickness of such a wooden floor is 70-77 mm and the best solution for such a floor would be to remove the wooden floor along with the joists and make a screed along concrete slab ceilings

Screeding a wooden floor makes sense if the floor joists are high brick pillars. The height of such pillars can reach 30-40 cm (or more) and it is not possible to replace them with a screed. You can see two photos of schemes for such floors below.

It is precisely floors of this design that can be discussed as a possible basis for a screed.

Features of screed on wooden floors

Before deciding to screed a wooden floor, pay attention to the following:

A screed on a wooden floor is an unconnected screed, that is, the layer of such a screed will not be connected to the bottom layer of the base and will be an isolated layer of the floor, not connected to anything. This leads to some features of screeds on wooden floors.

Firstly, the wooden base for the screed must be very strong and completely motionless. Depreciation, which is so characteristic of a wooden floor, should be completely eliminated. If the wooden floor possibly vibrates, the screed above it will crack, which is unacceptable.

Secondly, depending on the selected material for the screed, the thickness of the screed can be quite thick. For example, using for screed cement-sand mixture, the thickness of the screed should be from 10-12 cm. The weight of such a screed will significantly increase the load on the wooden floor. If we take into account that the wooden floor is laid on joists, and there is a step between the joists (the distance between the joists), then as the load on the wooden floor increases, the distance between the joists must be reduced. IN large rooms the distance between the logs can reach 85 cm. Therefore, if you decide to make a cement-sand screed in a large room, you will have to dismantle the floor, reduce the step between the logs, install new logs and restore the wooden floor again.

It’s a lot of work, and perhaps you should think a hundred times before making a cement-sand screed on a wooden floor in a large room.

In order not to disassemble the floor and not reduce the distance between the joists, use not a cement-sand mixture, but, for example, anhydrite floor levelers. The thickness of such a screed is from 30 mm, the leveler does not require reinforcement and can be used for unbound screeds.

Third, A cement-sand screed on a wooden floor is made, always with a reinforcing mesh. This is done, again, to increase the strength of the screed. Moreover, fiberglass in the screed will not save you from using reinforcing mesh. That is, for a semi-dry screed, you will also have to make a reinforcing mesh with cells of 100×100 mm.

Conclusion. The use of cement-sand screed for large rooms with wooden floors is not justified by labor-intensive work. However. If the circumstances and conditions are such that it is impossible to avoid screeding a wooden floor, then to install the screed it is better to use a leveler suitable for independent screeding rather than using a cement-sand mixture. And in general, I would not consider a cement-sand screed as a priority for screeding on a wooden floor, although the use of a high-quality leveler will significantly increase the cost of the screed material.

Material for screeding on wooden floors

To make a screed on a wooden floor you will need the following material:

• Polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns, for waterproofing the screed layer from wood and walls;
• Mixture for screed. Read about choosing a mixture a little higher. If you choose a cement-sand mixture, then prepare a reinforcing mesh, preferably with a stainless steel coating. The mesh should not be in rolls. Why not in rolls?

You have to fix the reinforcing mesh on a wooden base, but you must not disturb the waterproofing, that is, do not tear the film. Think about how you will attach the mesh. At the same time, think about how you will attach the beacons for the DSP screed, because there is nothing to attach the beacons to; the base for attaching the beacons is polyethylene.

Why am I making these notes? In my opinion, the device cement-sand screed It is better not to do it on a wooden base in large rooms. The amount of work and problems will completely overshadow the result. Replace DSP with “Rovnitel” for isolated bases (unbound screed). For example, an anhydrite floor leveler.

Wood screed technology

The wooden floor must be strong, immovable, dry and not rotten. The same applies not only to the floor boards, but also to the joists and posts on which it is laid. Rotten boards need to be replaced.

Important! Do not screed on a newly laid wooden floor; it may become deformed. The age of the wooden floor for screed must be more than one year when the floor is used in the range of home temperatures. Although I can’t imagine who needs to screed a new wooden floor.

The heads of the nails with which the boards are nailed need to be recessed a few millimeters so that they do not tear the layer of waterproofing film that needs to be laid on top of the boards.

If your apartment is on the ground floor and there is a basement or ground below you, then the seams between the boards need to be filled with epoxy putty. Epoxy putty is chosen because it does not allow moisture to pass through. The seams are sealed so that evaporation does not form between the film laid under the screed and the boards.

If the joints between the wall and the floor are wide, then seal them construction foam, and on top with epoxy putty and liquid waterproofing.

After the putty has dried, polyethylene 200 microns thick is spread on the wooden base. Polyethylene is spread with an overlap of 10-15 cm on the walls. Two adjacent pieces of polyethylene are laid with an overlap of 20-25 cm. Seal the joint between the pieces of polyethylene with non-wetting mounting tape. Tape the overlaps to the wall with tape.

The polyethylene should lie flat, without folds. Under the polyethylene there should be a clean wooden base free of debris.

Preparation of the solution

Let me remind you that we make a screed from a mixture of leveling agent. We make the screed solution according to the instructions on the package. The leveler mixture is added to the water, not the other way around. Stir the mixture until it becomes thick sour cream. mechanically, mixer at low speed.

How to check the thickness of the mixture

To check that the consistency of the mixture is correct, find a container with a diameter of 70 mm so that it can hold 1 liter of solution. From this cylinder, pour 1 liter of solution onto a 50x50 cm plexiglass plate. The diameter of the spread solution should be 34-38 cm. This means that the density of the solution is correct. The density of the solution must be checked constantly.

Set the screed level

The unbound screed with leveler must be more than 30 mm. For a wooden floor, choose 50 – 60 mm. It is better to measure the level of the screed laser level. If the room is very small, it is enough building level. Using the laser level, draw a screed line along the wall and place benchmark beacons (levels on legs) along the floor surface.

Filling the screed

The finished leveling mixture is poured continuously over the entire surface of the floor from the far corner to the exit. Helpers will be needed for successful pouring. One dilutes the mixture, the second continuously pours the solution, the third levels the solution according to the level of the beacons and marks, using a special metal rod with oscillatory movements (raising and lowering the rod) along and across the cast surface.

Caring for a poured screed

There should be no drafts or low temperatures in the room with the screed. If you did use a solution from CPS, then cover the screed with polyethylene. The anhydrite self-leveling floor must be protected for 2 days from excessive insolation (direct rays of the sun), too high temperature, drafts and water. After two days the room needs to be ventilated.

Some conclusions of the article

• Before screeding, evaluate the structure of your wooden floor;
• Cement-sand screed is very heavy and will put a lot of stress on the wooden floor, so you may have to reinforce the wooden floor;
• If possible, replace the DSP with a high-quality leveler for an independent screed;
• DSP screed on a wooden floor is cost-effective only for small rooms, kitchens, and bathrooms;
• Think a hundred times before using a screed on a wooden floor in houses with wooden floors, remember the load.

• And one last thing. If you plan to use tiles as finishing, replace the screed on the wooden floor, if possible in level, by laying cement bonded bonded boards (CBB).

Wood floors are rarely leveled with concrete. According to the firmly established opinion of builders, there is no point in installing an overly heavy monolithic slab on a wooden floor. The wooden base and the concrete layer do not coexist very well with each other, both during the hardening period and during operation, which is why the majority of specialists recommend preferring dry leveling schemes. However, those wishing to put washing department tiles or to arrange underfloor heating are still looking for ways in which a concrete floor screed can be poured over a wood base. There are methods, and they have specific features.

The nuances of working with wooden floors

Wood is a special material, which, in addition to a lot of technological advantages, has one significant drawback. It is not static; even after construction, lumber continues to “live” according to the laws peculiar only to them. Fluctuations in humidity levels and changes in temperature make scaffolding increase and decrease in volume, shrink in height, stretch and contract in a linear dimension. For this reason, after the construction of the log house, finishing work is not carried out for two years.

Attention. Pouring concrete over a new wooden floor is strictly prohibited. Leveling with concrete is possible only after 3-4 years of operation.

Wooden structures continue to move even after the completion of two years of post-construction shrinkage, although without the same agility. Equipped with underfloor heating systems, wooden floors are driven by each switch on and subsequent shutdown.

Unlike lumber, an artificially created stone slab slightly changes its geometric parameters in the linear direction during the hydration period. After complete hardening concrete layer shows no tendency to move at all. If they were in a tight bond, the instability of the “fast” wood would cause crumbling cracks to appear in the concrete. So, in order to allow each of the structural elements to act according to their characteristic principles, without causing harm to each other, the technology of leveling, unrelated to the base and the walls, was invented.

Technological principle of leveling with concrete

The essence of the technology, according to which a concrete screed is poured onto a wooden floor, is to create a boundary between the moving components of wood and monolithic slab. To do this, the leveling layer is cut off from the walls of the room being equipped with a damper tape, and from the base plastic film. The result is a floating deck that is not connected to either the timber or log walls or the foundation. Thanks to this, the wooden elements of the structure can continue to move in any direction, and the screed lying like a tray will not crack and crumble from the continuous change in the position of the rough subbase.

Why use polyethylene film?

After all, contact with it negatively affects the wood, providing conditions for rot and fungus to flourish. Usually, in wooden structures, instead of this budget waterproofing, glassine is used, bitumen mastic, roofing felt or new rolled materials with bitumen impregnation. The fact is that concrete does not stick to polyethylene at all, due to which:

• both the base and the screed will be able to “ride” along the insulating boundary;
• layer concrete leveling will not pull polyethylene along with it, tear it or stretch it;
• the inviolable limit will remain inviolable, will not allow the wood to suck up moisture from the hardening concrete, which is why shells are formed;
• concrete will not absorb moisture from the wooden base, causing cracks to appear in it.

Note! Those who have decided that they will lay a concrete floor screed with their own hands must take care of the base itself and minimize the negative effects of contact with polyethylene. Before laying the waterproofing layer, wooden structural elements will need to be treated with an antiseptic and Aquastop primer with water-repellent properties.

Floating screed technology

The principle is understood, all that remains is to implement it. Traditionally, you need to start with preparation:

• we remove the boardwalk and carry out a thorough inspection;
• We identify unreliable lags and irrevocably change everything that is unreliable;
• in case of insufficient bearing capacity log systems, we increase their number, that is, we install an additional beam so that the step between the logs becomes approximately 30-40 cm;
• we fix the floorboards back, if they are in good condition, it is better to turn over slightly damaged boards;
• We fill the gaps between the boards with sealant.

Having finished with the preparation, we adhere to the period indicated on the packaging of the sealed “putty” and generously cover the wooden floor with waterproof primer, after which we let it hydrolyze.

On the walls we mark a zero level at an arbitrary height, found with a conventional level gauge or laser device. This landmark can be located at an arbitrary height, approximately 30-70 cm from the plane of the dismantled coating. From the obtained points of the zero horizontal we set down equal distances, taking into account the thickness of the future concrete screed. It will be more convenient to immediately put aside the power flooring so that if the height is exceeded, the thickness of the leveling layer can be slightly reduced.

Note. The standard thickness of a concrete floating slab is considered to be 5 cm. Please note that a layer of 1 cm will “fall” onto 1 m² of wooden floor with a mass of 100-120 kg. Without strengthening the lag system, withstand this kind of pressure wooden structure unable. If possible, builders recommend wooden beams generally replace it with a metal channel.

Insulation device for leveling with concrete

Further steps to install a leveling concrete screed involve the construction of cut-off insulating barriers between the wooden floor parts and the future leveling layer. The result should be a kind of pallet made of water-resistant material:

• First, we will create a fence along the walls from foam polystyrene tape, attaching it around the perimeter of the room with a stapler, but better with tape. The width of the strip should be greater than the thickness of the screed being constructed, the thickness is 1-2 cm. In addition to creating a barrier, this element will dampen sound vibrations and also provide the floating slab with the opportunity to slightly expand and lengthen. After laying the final coating, the excess protruding above the surface is cut off, and this technological gap is closed with a plinth or its venerable substitute - a 10-centimeter board with a galvanized ventilation grill.
• Then we lay polyethylene with a 15-20 centimeter overlap on the walls and with a 10 centimeter overlap on the previous strips.

Note. There should be no folds, tears, punctures, especially holes in the waterproofing. All further actions on the installation of a concrete screed should also be carried out, being careful not to pierce, tear, or pierce the insulating layer. Any holes that appear by chance should be covered with plastic patches.

It is desirable that the waterproofing layer has no joints at all, but if this cannot be avoided, all joints with obligatory overlaps are firmly taped. Perfect sealing of the insulation is the key to excellent performance of the leveling layer.

Construction of alignment beacons

These actions must be carried out with special care, in no case using screws or nails. The best way– the formation of beds across the entire area being developed from a solution with the same composition and consistency as that of the future screed. A continuous strip of mortar will tightly press the polyethylene to the base and prevent it from warping and lifting up when the craftsman walks on the floor.

Note. The distance between the wall and the outer bed should be 20-30 cm. There should be a meter or 1.2 m between the parallel beds so that, based on the rule on the beacons, it is convenient to level the screed.

We place a metal profile on the top of the constructed ridges and drown it in the mixture, reaching the pre-marked height, that is, the level of the leveling layer. It is advisable to complete all steps for installing beacons an hour after mixing the solution, until it begins to set.

Using microfiber instead of reinforcement

A fairly thick layer of concrete requires reinforcement. Usually it was a metal mesh, simply laid on the floor. I hope those who want to learn how to properly and reliably make a concrete screed on a wooden base have not forgotten that it is important to maintain the integrity of the separating layer of insulation. Agree, it would be difficult to move along a metal mesh, and even to work without catching or perforating the polyethylene.

Let us remember that reinforcement generally should not strengthen only the “bottom” of the leveling layer. Its place is in the body of concrete, and to achieve correct location, it would be necessary to fill the screed in at least two stages:

• first layer first;
• then laying the mesh with the installation of beacons and final filling.

Those who are in the know and know perfectly well how long each layer of concrete screed will take to dry will probably be puzzled by this option. Between the first stages and the second you need to wait almost a month (28 days), and the same amount upon completion of all work.

In order not to turn floor leveling into a long-term epic, it is better to use fiberglass for strengthening. They are introduced into the concrete mixture during the preparation period. The random arrangement of polymer fibers will provide strong connections in all possible directions. In addition, the weight of the heavy screed will be significantly reduced due to the abandonment of traditional heavy reinforcement.

Direct concrete pouring

Performed according to traditional technological scheme. Depending on the area of ​​the upcoming leveling, the mixture is filled with:

• or each room in turn, separated from adjacent room a kind of formwork - a partition made of boards;
• or the entire area with work starting from the wall opposite the front door.

A day after leveling the beacons, these rails must be removed. Treat the grooves remaining from the profiles with soil, fill with mortar and level with a trowel.

Rules of care concrete screed and behind cement-sand leveling are similar. A day after pouring, the screed is moistened generously, then sprinkled with water daily for another week. The fresh concrete floor must be covered with polyethylene for four days so that the screed evenly releases moisture throughout its entire capacity. It is necessary to ensure stability and uniformity of the temperature background and the percentage of moisture in the air.

Video about leveling with PCI Periplan ready-mix

Those who independently undertake the difficult task of installing screeds should also become familiar with the technological intricacies. concrete mortar, and those who decided to turn to builders. The result of non-compliance with the rules is the inevitable costly rework.

When renovating a house or apartment, a master may encounter a problem with a wooden floor. Over time, such coatings become creaky and lose their evenness. It is also possible that various damages. To shorten the duration repair work, it is best to install new flooring without removing the old wood floor.

To level the base, a screed on a wooden floor laid under the tiles is perfect. It is important to consider this option, since installing tiles is the most difficult task for a wooden floor. The material is characterized high density and has a strong impact on underlying structures. If you understand how to make a screed for tiles, there will be no problems with other coatings.

How to make a screed

There are two options for performing the work:

• standard concrete pouring;
• using the dry method.

The second option is more suitable for wooden floors because it has the following advantages:

• small weight;
• ease of manufacture;
• convenience of laying communications;
• the ability to correct errors;
• no wet processes;
• there is no need to wait for drying, which is required by a cement screed.

But there are also disadvantages for use in the home:

• making a dry screed requires a greater thickness than the concrete one is made (the height of the room is reduced);
• due to the increased thickness, the consumption of materials is higher than when creating a traditional base.

Depending on the conditions, requirements and wishes, you can choose between two options when laying material under the tiles.

Work production technology

Screed under tiles on wooden floors should be done in a strictly prescribed manner. When renovating a house, you first need to inspect the ceiling and floor structures. Identify weak points and make sure there are no serious damages. If traces of rot, mold, fungus and other microorganisms are found, it is better to selectively replace the elements of the wooden floor.

Using a screed, you can eliminate unevenness and strengthen the surface before attaching the floor covering, but you will not be able to get rid of serious defects.

The base for the tiles must be level and strong, since it will have to withstand heavy loads. To prevent problems during operation, it is better to timely replace and remove old boards in the house.

1. After inspecting the old floor, you can begin the main task. It is recommended to fill the classic wet screed in the following order:
2. If there was previously a cement screed on the floor, it can be removed by grinding or milling. Checking the reliability of the fastenings of the flooring boards to the joists.
3. If they are not securely fastened, squeaking will occur during operation. To prevent this, all elements of the old floor must be securely attached to each other. Next comes cleaning the surface from old contaminants.
4. You will need to remove grease, traces of glue, old paint and varnish, various impregnations, dirt and dust. If necessary, you should sand the surface of the old floor with a special machine.
5. In this way, the top layer is removed, the base under the tile becomes smoother. If there are unevennesses on the floor with a height difference of more than 1 cm, you need to do preliminary leveling for the tiles.
6. To perform the work, you can use various leveling mixtures based on a cement binder. The surface of the boards is covered with the composition; cracks can be repaired using putty. Water-soluble putty compounds cannot be used. Instead of baseboards, slats are installed around the perimeter of the walls, which will cover the distance between the old floor and the wall.
7. Thin slats are installed followed by puttying. This strip is removed after completion of the work. With its help, a gap is provided that will allow air to enter the space under the floor. For a wooden covering, this is extremely important, because if ventilation measures are not taken, the wood will rot and cause problems during operation. The leveled surface must be primed in accordance with the technology of this process
8. . For priming, buy a ready-made mixture. A layer of this material will not only increase adhesion, but also improve the spreadability of the mixture for pouring the subfloor over the surface when performing repair work. When processing, the floor must be dry, the work is performed in two times. The diameter of the elements is assumed to be 3-4 mm. Cell dimensions 50 by 50 mm. This stage can be neglected, but it ensures greater reliability of the foundation and the ability to withstand higher loads.
9. When preparing the solution, the proportions must be observed. It is better not to make it yourself, but to buy a ready-made dry mixture, the preparation of which requires only water. This will avoid mistakes when choosing the proportions of components and reduce the complexity of the screed pouring process.
10. The mixture must be applied in one go. If you carry out work in several stages, the layer will not work as a single whole, cracks, tears and unevenness will appear. For application, use notched spatulas. Control the thickness of the application using beacon guides or marks on the wall surface.
11. After completing the laying of the mortar, it is necessary to allow the concrete to cure. This process takes several hours under normal conditions. After this time, you can carefully walk on the floor, but it will be ready for full use no earlier than in a couple of weeks (in the summer, the time period increases for the winter season).
12. Take out the slats installed around the perimeter of the walls instead of baseboards. After this, if necessary, grinding can be done (no earlier than 6 hours after pouring).