Rules for installing sewerage systems in a private house. Proper installation of sewerage in a private house with your own hands

Sewage disposal is one of the difficulties faced by the owner country house or dachas. Incorrectly installed can become a source unpleasant odor and disruption of the ecological balance on the site, therefore, when designing, it is important to take into account all sanitary standards. This article will tell you about the types of local sewer systems and methods of their installation.

Sewage system in a private house

The main difference between local sewerage and centralized sewerage is the need for independent neutralization and neutralization of wastewater. When connecting to a centralized sewer system, an internal one must be installed to connect to a common collector or riser.

Mounting a local system is somewhat more difficult, because it consists of:

• internal wiring;
• external sewer network;
• , sump or .

Install. It is a system of pipes connected to plumbing fixtures. The diameter of the pipes is different: for drainage from a sink or sink, Ø40 mm is sufficient, for a bath or shower – Ø50 mm, for fecal drains, sun beds and risers – Ø110 mm. Currently, pipes made of PP or PVC are mainly used; in old houses you can still find cast iron pipes.

Plastic sewer pipes have many advantages: light weight, easy installation, smooth internal walls that prevent the formation of plaque and deposits. For indoor installation use pipes gray– they are resistant to high wastewater temperatures.

For external wiring, high-strength plastic pipes are used - when laid in the ground, they must withstand its weight. They can be distinguished by the orange color of the plastic - it is clearly visible in the ground, which reduces the likelihood of damage to the laid sewer during excavation work.

Plastic pipes are connected with O-rings or special glue, and the socket should be located against the flow of water. Branches and turns are made using special fittings - couplings, bends, tees and crosses. When connecting, it is important to avoid sharp and right angles that contribute to the formation of blockages.

Receivers for local sewerage can be of several types:

• sealed wells;
• wells with a filter bottom;
• settling wells;
• septic tanks with mechanical cleaning;
• biological treatment stations.

Septic tanks purify wastewater much better, and the purified water entering the soil is safe for the environment. Biological treatment stations produce purified process water at the outlet, suitable for watering gardens, as well as fertile sludge.

When considering the feasibility of installing a particular system, it is important to consider several factors:

• volumes and composition of wastewater;
• area of ​​the site and its relief;
• proximity to water sources and reservoirs;
• closeness groundwater and the possibility of flooding;
• region of installation and its climatic features.

The volume of wastewater is calculated based on the composition of the family; 200 liters per day for sanitary needs is taken as the norm; it is also necessary to take into account the water consumed by the washing machine or dishwasher.

The wastewater may contain only water for domestic and sanitary needs or its mixture with fecal wastewater. In the second case, effective cleaning is possible only by installing a sealed container, settling tank system, septic tank or biological treatment station. Wells with a filter bottom do not do a good job of cleaning mixed wastewater; in this case, a persistent unpleasant odor may appear. Another option is to separate the drains and use different treatment methods for them.

The possibility of installing sewerage in accordance with sanitary standards depends on the area of ​​the site. and other objects must be no less than those shown in the figure. If these requirements are not met, it is better to install a sealed storage tank or biological treatment station.

Pay attention! On a small dacha plot with water drawn from a well, the easiest way is to separate the wastewater: drain water for domestic and sanitary purposes through a sewer into a well or septic tank, and provide for human waste.

If groundwater is close and there is a possibility of flooding, the installation of local sewerage must be carried out taking into account these conditions. Flooding a well or sump can lead to contamination of the soil and the appearance of an unpleasant odor. With a sharp rise in groundwater, a septic tank may float, which will lead to destruction external sewerage.

A septic tank poorly anchored in the ground after flooding

There are several standard solutions to this problem:

• installation of a sealed storage tank that prevents the influx of groundwater;
• installation of a vertical septic tank with anchoring;
• arrangement of a drainage system for drainage of groundwater;
• in case of poor absorption of treated wastewater, installation of forced pumping and a post-treatment system.

The climatic conditions of the region affect the possibility of freezing of the system. External sewerage pipes are laid below the ground freezing level or insulated and equipped with a heating system using a special electric cable. A septic tank and biological treatment station in cold regions also need insulation.

Pay attention! When installing a storage tank or septic tank, it is important to provide convenient access for the sewer truck!

Installation of internal sewerage

The rules for installing internal sewer lines do not depend on the type of septic tank and are always carried out using the same technology. Before starting installation work, it is necessary to draw a sketch indicating all plumbing fixtures and room dimensions.

If plumbing fixtures are installed on two or more floors, they try to place them one above the other - this facilitates the operation of the sewer system and reduces the number of communications. Based on the sketch, the required number of pipes and fittings is calculated.

Tools required for work:

• hacksaw for plastic or metal;
• fine-grained file;
• level and tape measure;
• clamps for attaching pipes to the wall.

When installing pipes, they try to select them in such a way as to obtain minimum quantity connections. If it is necessary to cut pipes, use a hacksaw or jigsaw with fine teeth. The required section is sawed off strictly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe, the burrs are cut off with a sharp knife, and the outer side is chamfered at 15° using a fine-grained file.

Pay attention! Connecting fittings must not be cut! They are selected from the available assortment, and adjustment is made using straight sections of pipes.

The pipes are connected using an O-ring or sealant. Installation with an O-ring is easier and takes less time. To connect the pipes, cut sections of the required length, as described above, lubricate with silicone grease (if the pipes fit tightly) or liquid soap to facilitate sliding and insert the smooth end of the pipe into the socket up to the mark. After this, the pipe is removed in the opposite direction by 9-11 mm. This allows the ring to seal the joint tightly and also provides clearance for thermal expansion.

Step 1. Installation of internal sewerage begins with the installation of risers. They are made from pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, installed strictly vertically. The installation location of the risers is determined by the project; most often they are located in the bathroom or toilet. The pipes are leveled and secured to the wall with clamps. When connecting straight sections of pipes, make sure that the sockets are directed upwards. Tees or bends are installed in the right places.

Step 2. At each turn or branch, in places where congestion is most likely to occur, the sewer risers are equipped with an inspection. If pipes are laid hidden in the wall, an inspection hatch must be installed at the inspection site.

Step 3. Each riser is equipped with a drain pipe of the same diameter, led through the ceilings to the street. It (the pipe) is necessary to remove gases and reduce noise in pipes; it cannot be combined with a chimney or ventilation system!

Step 4. Horizontal sections of sewerage are installed to the risers through installed tees and bends. Their length should not exceed 10 m, and it is necessary to ensure a slope of 2 cm per 1 linear line. m for pipes Ø110 mm and 3 cm per 1 linear. m for pipes Ø50 mm. If it is necessary to turn 90 degrees, use two 45-degree bends or three 30-degree bends - this will ensure a smooth transition and reduce the likelihood of blockages.

Step 5. Horizontal sections at the joints are also equipped with a revision - a tee with a lid. The branch of the tee is installed straight up so that water does not leak through it.

Step 6. Connection to plumbing fixtures is made using a siphon - it prevents gases from the sewer from entering the room. In addition, debris, sand and other contaminants accumulate at the bottom of the siphon, which can lead to clogged pipes. They can be easily removed during inspection using a removable cover.

The diameter of the pipes for connecting the points must correspond to the diameter of their outlet. The transition between pipes is carried out using a transition coupling or, when combining pipes from several devices, using tees with different branch diameters.

Step 7 The toilet is connected to a horizontal pipe Ø110 mm using bends or a flexible coupling (depending on its design and type of outlet). In this case, the water seal is provided by the design of the toilet.

Step 8 The risers, and in one-story houses - horizontal pipes, are connected to the external sewerage system. It is better to do this by connecting three outlets at 30 degrees - this will ensure a smooth drainage of water.

Pay attention! When using a sealed storage container, it is recommended to install check valve, preventing the release of foul gases.

Prices for sewer inspection

sewer inspection

Installation of external sewer network

High-strength plastic pipes are used for the external sewer network orange color or cast iron. The depth of laying pipes without insulation and heating should be below the depth of soil freezing.

Step 1. Prepare a pit for laying pipes using special equipment or manually. The trench should be as straight as possible, without turns. Its length of more than 20 meters is undesirable, since to ensure the required slope the pipe and septic tank will have to be deeply buried.

Step 2. They lay pipes, connecting them in the same way as pipes for internal sewerage. When laying, observe the required slope in all areas; to ensure this, you can use sand filling with its pouring and compaction.

Step 3. The passage of the pipe through the foundation is carried out through metal sleeves laid at the stage of pouring the foundation. They are segments metal pipe with a diameter of 130-160 mm, passing through the foundation at a depth below freezing of the soil at an angle of 2-3 degrees. The ends of the pipes must be exposed on both sides of the foundation by at least 15 cm. The pipe is brought inside the basement and connected to the outlet of the internal sewage system of the dacha. What's happened , you can read in our article.

Step 4. The second end of the external sewer network is discharged into a septic tank or settling tank of the selected type. When using a septic tank industrial production, just connect the pipe to the inlet pipe. When installing a concrete well, the pipe is inserted into the prepared hole, wrapped in foam insulation to avoid damage. Cover the insertion site with cement mortar.

Step 5. The trench is backfilled with soil removed from it. On wet and heavy soils, especially when laying pipes with heating cables, it is recommended to first fill the pipes with coarse sand in a layer of 20-30 cm, and then with natural soil. This will improve the flow of groundwater and prevent freezing.

Installation of a sealed sump

A concrete well with a concreted bottom and plastered joints can serve as a sealed wastewater receiver. It is installed no closer than 5 m from the walls of a residential building and 2 m from the neighboring plot.

Step 1. Preparing a pit for concrete rings the required depth with a diameter of 20-30 cm larger than the diameter of the rings. It is better to carry out work in dry weather immediately before installing the well, so that the soil does not crumble.

Step 2. Install the bottom of the well and the required number of rings (usually no more than three). The joints are sealed with cement-sand mortar.

Step 3. An external sewer pipe is inserted into the well, as described above. Carefully isolate the joint using foam material and cement mortar.

Step 4. Cover the well with a lid and install a hatch for pumping, as well as a ventilation pipe through which gases will be removed from the well. This pipe must be above the breathing zone.

Step 5. Backfilling is done with sand mixed with dry cement. When the soil is moistened, the cement will set, which will ensure reliable fixation of the well and sealing of microcracks and pores in the concrete.

Pay attention! Instead of a concrete well, you can use a plastic container - for example.

Installation of a well with a filtration bottom

A special feature of a filtration well is its ability to purify wastewater due to the activity of soil microorganisms. The volume of wastewater is limited (1 m3 per day); the well itself is placed no closer than 5 m to a residential building.

Step 1. They dig a pit measuring 2x2 m and 2.5 m deep. Its walls are covered with geotextiles, and 0.5 m of coarse sand is poured onto the bottom.

Step 2. A 0.5 m layer of crushed stone is poured onto the sand, leveled and a plastic filtration well with perforated walls in the lower third of its height is installed. The walls of the well are also wrapped with geotextiles.

Step 3. The walls of the pit prepared for the drainage well are wrapped with geotextiles. A layer of sand 0.4-0.5 m thick is poured onto the bottom, then a layer of crushed stone of the same thickness. Install drainage well from perforated concrete rings. Place a Ø50 mm pipe into the filtration well, ensuring a slope of 3 cm per 1 meter of pipe length. Backfilling is carried out first with crushed stone, and the upper 0.3-0.4 m with soil removed during the preparation of the pit. The well is equipped with a lid with a hatch and a ventilation pipe.

Pay attention! A well with a filtration bottom can also be made from concrete rings, bricks, car or tractor tires.

Installation of settling wells

A system with settling tanks is an improved version of a filtration well. It consists of two wells connected in series, with the first well having a sealed concrete bottom, and the second equipped with a filtration bottom layer.

In the first well, the wastewater settles and is separated into a solid fraction, which settles to the bottom, and settled water. Through an overflow pipe, water from the first well flows into the second, where residual filtration and wastewater neutralization by soil bacteria occurs.

The advantage of such a system is that it allows you to efficiently process large volumes of wastewater, especially when installing several sealed settling tanks. The solid fraction from them is pumped out periodically (about once a year).

A simplified version of the sump is a perforated pipe laid in a layer of crushed stone over a sand bed.

Step 1. Excavation pits are being prepared for sealed and filtration wells. The technology for their preparation is described in the previous sections.

Step 2. Install a sealed well with a concrete bottom. Install an inlet pipe Ø110 mm and an overflow pipe Ø50 mm so that the height difference between them is approximately 20-30 cm. The well is equipped with a lid and a hatch.

Step 3. A drainage well is installed from concrete rings placed on a layer of crushed stone over sand preparation. To avoid silting, the crushed stone is wrapped in geotextile. Place a Ø50 mm pipe into the filtration well, ensuring a slope of 3 cm per 1 m of pipe length. Equipped with a lid with a hatch and a ventilation pipe. Backfilling is carried out with soil removed during the preparation of the pit.

Pay attention! Specialized plastic containers can be used as wells, but it is important to provide good drainage so that the sealed container does not float up.

Installation of a mechanical septic tank

The principle of operation of a mechanical septic tank is generally similar to a system of settling wells: several chambers are located in a durable plastic casing, connected by an overflow pipe.

Once inside the septic tank, the wastewater is divided into fractions, clarified and treated with anaerobic bacteria. Water, purified by 80-90%, after the septic tank enters the filtration chamber or filtration field, where post-treatment occurs.

The septic tank is installed at a distance of 5-15 m from the walls of a residential building, the filtration chamber is installed in any convenient place on the site, the maximum distance to the septic tank is limited to 40-50 meters. The volume of the septic tank is determined by the number of family members permanently residing in the house, and you can use the data from the table as a guide.

Table 1. Required volume of septic tank.

Installation sequence

Step 1. They are preparing pits for a septic tank and a filtration chamber. A layer of sand 10-15 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the septic tank pit to level the bottom and prevent damage to the septic tank by stones or other solid inclusions. The bottom of the pit for the filtration chamber is covered with geotextile and covered with crushed stone to a depth of 40-50 cm.

Step 2. Place the septic tank and filtration chamber on the prepared base. Connect the pipes using a level and ensuring the desired slope. The supply pipe must be equipped with a branch for ventilation if it is not installed in the risers fan pipe. The filtration chamber is also equipped with ventilation.

Step 3. The pits are backfilled. The space around the septic tank is filled up sand-cement mixture to avoid it moving or floating up. The filtration chamber is filled with ordinary sand. The sand layer is 15 cm higher than the upper level of the chambers.

Step 4. A layer of insulation – foam plastic in slabs – is laid on top of the sand. Cover with soil right up to the surface. The hatch for pumping out sludge should be located 10-15 cm above the backfill level, and convenient access for a sewage truck must be provided to it.

Pay attention! The given figures and installation technology are general; specific conditions can be determined for a specific septic tank model.

Installation of a biological treatment station

Biological treatment stations differ from septic tanks in that they process wastewater more intensively, but given the price, they are rarely installed in a private home. The structure of the biological treatment station is shown in the figure.

Video - Autonomous sewage system for a country house

As can be seen from the article, localization in a country house can be implemented in many ways, from relatively simple and inexpensive to high-tech. At making the right choice cleaning systems can provide the necessary level of comfort both in a comfortable cottage and in a small country house.

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

When arranging a country house, many communications are often installed with your own hands. There is nothing surprising about this: the process itself is quite simple, and performing the work does not require any special skills. Of course, there are certain rules that must be followed: for example, it is worth designing the structure carefully and ensuring that one communication line does not interfere with another. How to install a sewer system in a private house will be discussed in this article.

If we talk about sewage, the first thing you need to know is that this system consists of internal and external parts, and the arrangement of each of them is carried out in its own way. External sewerage is somewhat easier to install, since the work is carried out in an open space. From the inside, everything is a little more complicated, so installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands begins with it.

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house

The riser is usually made of a 110 mm pipe made of plastic. All drainage pipes are connected to the riser, through which wastewater is collected from plumbing fixtures. To connect the toilet to the system, straight sections made of 100 mm pipes are used, and other devices can be connected through various fittings using pipes with a diameter of 32 to 80 mm.

The sewer system requires a slope, otherwise it simply will not work: the structure operates on a gravity principle, so the slope must be maintained in all its sections, regardless of the length of the pipelines or the location of the devices. According to regulatory documents, average value the slope should be within 2-3 cm per 1 meter of pipeline. When creating a slope, you need to carefully monitor compliance with this value, otherwise the system will very soon begin to create problems.

To connect plastic pipes, it is necessary to use fittings made of the same material: such a connection will provide the structure with sufficient strength and tightness. When laying hidden sewers, you need to not only lay the pipes in prepared grooves, but also fix them with clamps for reliability. The grooves themselves are subsequently masked with a special solution.

Do-it-yourself installation of external sewerage

Installing a sewer system in a private house requires attention, especially in such moments:

1. The design should have a minimum of bends and turns, so the entire highway should be made as straight as possible.
2. If plastic pipes were used in the house, then the external sewage system should also be made of this material.

1. Large volume of excavation work. It is necessary to lay external sewerage systems taking into account the level of soil freezing: the pipes must be below this level so that negative temperatures do not provoke stagnation or rupture of the system.
2. Creating a sewer well. Before creating a sewer system in a private house, you will need to accurately calculate the amount of drainage, which is affected primarily by the number of residents. The large expected volume of waste indicates the need to create a large reservoir, so the depth of its arrangement should be quite large.
3. Selecting a system type. The quality of collection and disposal of wastewater, as well as the ease of operation of the sewer system will be directly influenced by its type. Each design has its own nuances: for example, a conventional cesspool has extremely low efficiency, but is very cheap, but a powerful biological treatment station will be expensive, but its performance indicators will be at the highest level. Read also: "".

In any case, external sewerage places special requirements on its arrangement, and they must be taken into account in order for the design to be as efficient as possible.

Carrying out excavation work

In addition, it is important to pay attention to the slope of the bottom of the trench: when using technology, the required value will not be achieved, so everything will have to be leveled yourself. In any case, after preparing the trench, its bottom must be covered with a small layer of sand.

Construction of a sewer well

• brickwork;
• metal tank;
• reinforced concrete rings;
• plastic septic tank.

1. Devices made of bricks or blocks are quite good elements of the sewer system, but their installation takes a lot of time. With little experience in construction work, creating a brick well may take several days.
2. Metal structure It compares favorably with brick because of its ease of installation and lower cost, but the service life of the device in this case will be much shorter: the metal is easily susceptible to corrosion, and very soon the device will become faulty.
3. Reinforced concrete wells are quite common structures, since their advantages include strength, reliability and durability. The disadvantage of a well made of reinforced concrete rings is that it is difficult to install: the finished rings have considerable weight, so it is almost impossible to install them yourself.
4. Plastic septic tanks can also be considered reliable and quality designs: they are durable and much lighter than reinforced concrete counterparts, so they can be installed with the efforts of 2-3 people. True, the cost of the design is slightly higher than the cost of previous devices, but the money spent will pay off in the very near future. In addition, if we take into account the labor costs of constructing, for example, concrete wells, the price will be almost equal. Read also: "".

How to install sewer pipes

Last stage laying the pipeline - connecting the main line to sewer well. For this purpose, couplings are also used to connect all external sewerage pipes to each other and to the internal sewerage system. When the pipes are assembled and installed in their places, the trench is covered with earth, and the work is completed.

Subtleties of sewerage arrangement

Soil freezing level too deep. With this phenomenon, the pipes must be laid too deep, and the amount of work will increase greatly. This phenomenon can be avoided by using thermal insulation.

It can be done in two ways:

• using thermal insulation materials that perform this job well;
• using electric heating, realized through a cable stretched along the entire sewer line.

Design selection. Selecting a sewer system is an individual question, and there is no universal answer to it. To make the choice of sewer more clear, it is worth reading the article about the types of sewer systems.

Conclusion

Installing a sewer system in a private house can be done with your own hands - even inexperienced craftsmen will not have any problems. And if you stock up on some knowledge and carefully prepare for the work, the design will turn out to be reliable and will be able to function for a very long time and with high quality.

Any private house without a connection to the central water supply and sewerage system does not provide the opportunity to enjoy such benefits of civilization as a bath, shower, kitchen sink, washing machine and much more.

Sewage in a private house can be equipped in different ways. This will be discussed in this article.

Owners of private houses without sewerage are forced to install it themselves. If the system was originally included in the project, then there will be no problems.

It is much more difficult to incorporate a circuit into a finished house.

The simplest option is if the sink and shower are in the house, and the toilet is in the adjacent area. In this case, you only need to lead the pipes to the drainage pit.

When the toilet is located inside, technology must be followed. Even a slight violation can lead to contamination of the site and water. Septic tanks are necessary in this option.

Utility rooms should be located nearby (bathroom, toilet, kitchen). Will greatly facilitate the organization of sewerage.

How to choose a sewerage scheme

To create a diagram, you will need to answer several questions.

1. Permanent or temporary residence?
2. At what level is groundwater located?
3. Number of people living in the house?
4. Amount of water consumed?
5. Climate?
6. Area of ​​the plot?
7. Soil features?
8. SNiP (building codes and regulations)?

Sewers are divided into two types:

• accumulative;
• cleansing.

A cesspool is rarely used in construction. Used for temporary residences where there is no high water consumption.

Groundwater should lie no higher than a meter from the bottom of the pit. Otherwise, pollution is guaranteed.

The storage system is used in private houses with high groundwater levels. Due to the tightness of the structure, there is no risk of contamination of the site and water.

Disadvantages of this system. The sewer trucks will be called and a space will have to be allocated for the equipment to enter the site.

Types of sewerage in a private house. Features of septic tanks

Single-chamber septic tanks functionally similar to a cesspool.

This option is well suited where groundwater does not lie high.

If the house is constantly inhabited and a lot of water is used, it is not recommended to install a single-chamber septic tank.

In order for a two-chamber septic tank to function efficiently, the natural filter (crushed stone and sand) should be changed every 5 years.

In houses with permanent residence the best system sewerage systems are considered to be septic tanks with biological filters. They use microorganisms that help process waste products. Usually these organisms are simply poured into the toilet.

This type of sewer requires connection to the electrical network.

Biological and soil cleaning is carried out septic tanks with filtration field. Such a sewage system can be installed only if the groundwater is deeper than three meters.

Installation will require a lot of space. The distance to the nearest water source is at least 30 meters.

Systems with forced air supply (aeration tanks) have significant advantages and fully justify the costs.

After installation, it is necessary to connect to the electrical network and constant human supervision.

How to make a sewer with your own hands

Construction must take place according to the approved design. The project must have a diagram of internal and external sewerage wiring.

The internal sewage system consists of risers, a main line and a plumbing connection area (bath, sink, toilet, shower).

This system ends at the foundation level in the form of an outlet pipe.

Arranging an external sewer system with your own hands involves a diagram of a site with an external pipeline, storage or cleaning equipment.

After approval of the project, you should proceed to purchase the necessary equipment and pick up a sewer.

During construction, rely on SNiP - this will help you avoid mistakes and correctly install sewerage into a private house.

Selecting a location

An important issue when constructing a sewer system is the choice of location for the septic tank. Its location depends on:

Soil with a large amount of sand is loose, easily allows moisture to pass through, and there is a high probability of groundwater contamination.

When installing septic tanks, it is necessary to comply with the standards.

1. Distance from the house from 5 meters
2. Distance from water source from 30 meters
3. Distance from green spaces from 3 meters.

It is necessary to leave an entrance for sewage disposal equipment.

Internal sewerage

On the internal sewerage diagram, it is necessary to highlight all points of the system.

If 90-degree turns are inevitable, build it from two 45-degree angles.

Preparing for installation

Installation of external sewerage

The sump should be cleaned every 2-3 years.

How to lay pipes correctly

A line is laid from the sewer pipe that comes out of the foundation to the septic tank. The pipeline is installed at an obligatory angle, which will ensure gravity flow of the liquid. The standard angle is 2 degrees.

The wider the pipe in diameter, the smaller the angle of inclination.

The depth of installation of sewerage in a private house is determined by the soil freezing index. On average it is 1 meter. In colder regions, the depth should be increased to 1.5 m. Before installation, fill the bottom of the trench with sand and compact it well. This will help protect the highway from destruction when the soil shifts.

The ideal option is a direct pipeline from the house to the collector. For external sewerage, pipes made of cast iron or plastic with a diameter of 110 mm are suitable.

The joints must be made airtight. The trench with the pipeline is filled with sand and then with soil.

Sewerage without pumping

Typically this system consists of three sections. Two of which are completely sealed (the first and second sections). In the first section, heavy waste is deposited. In the second, light particles settle. In the third, the water is completely purified and goes into the drainage well.

Such a system needs pumping, but much less frequently than a conventional septic tank. Cleaning is carried out with a special sewage pump.

When the sludge reaches the overflow point, treatment is required.

To optimally select the volume of a septic tank without pumping, the formula is used:

200l multiplied by the number of people, add 20% to the result.

To make life at the dacha comfortable, it is necessary to carry out basic communications - water supply and sewerage. In suburban areas there is often no centralized sewerage network, so each house owner solves the problem independently. Periodic use of a home does not require the installation of expensive and complex equipment; it is enough to install a septic tank.

Often in dachas, the function of collecting wastewater is performed by a cesspool. If the house is not equipped plumbing system This option is fully justified, but when installing plumbing fixtures and a large volume of drained water, it is not enough. In this article we will talk about how to make a sewer system in a country house with your own hands in various ways (from concrete rings, barrels, without pumping), and also demonstrate diagrams, drawings, photos and video instructions.

The sewerage system must be built in accordance with the developed project, which includes external and internal piping diagrams.

Two-chamber septic tank

The most convenient option is to install a collector consisting of two chambers connected by an overflow pipe. Let's find out how to arrange it yourself.

1. Work begins with digging a pit in a place chosen taking into account all sanitary requirements. The volume of the structure depends on the number of people living in the country house. You can dig a pit manually or using an excavator.
2. A sand cushion up to 15 cm high is formed at the bottom of the pit. The depth of the pit is 3 meters.
3. It is necessary to install formwork made of boards or chipboard. The design must be reliable. Next, a reinforcing belt is formed from metal rods tied with steel wire.
4. It is necessary to make two holes in the formwork and insert pipe cuttings. These will be places for the entrance of the sewer main and the overflow pipe between the sections.
5. The formwork is filled with concrete, which is distributed throughout the entire volume using a vibrating tool. The design of the septic tank must be monolithic, so it is advisable to fill the entire formwork at one time.
6. In the first compartment, the bottom is filled with concrete, a sealed section is formed, which will serve as a sump. Here the wastewater will be separated into large solid fractions that sink to the bottom, and clarified water that flows into the adjacent section. For better decomposition of solid residues, aerobic bacteria can be purchased.
7. The second compartment is made without a bottom; it can be made not only from monolithic walls, but also using concrete rings with a diameter of 1–1.5 meters, stacked on top of each other. The bottom of the well is covered with a thick layer of sedimentary rock (crushed stone, pebbles, gravel) to filter the wastewater.
8. An overflow pipe is laid between the two sections. It is installed at an angle of 30 mm on linear meter. The height of the pipe is located in the upper third of the wells. The number of sections is not necessarily limited to two; a four-section septic tank can be made, which provides better cleaning.
9. The ceiling of the septic tank is made independently, using formwork and concrete, or ready-made ones are used reinforced concrete slabs. Be sure to install a hatch that allows you to control the filling of sections and the hood. The pit is filled with sand and selected soil. The sump tank of such a system will be cleaned every 2–3 years.

Due to the ease of installation, many summer residents prefer to make a septic tank from concrete rings.

If the soil on the site is clayey or the groundwater is located very close to the surface, it will not be possible to install a septic tank of this design. You can settle on a sealed container of sufficient volume, securely installed and secured to a concrete slab in the pit.

Another option is a biological treatment station. Local stations are convenient and efficient; they are indispensable for large suburban buildings. The installation and commissioning of the device is carried out by specialists; the cost of such a station is acceptable for a narrow circle of summer residents.

Laying the external main

It is necessary to lay a pipeline from the point where the sewer pipe exits the house to the septic tank. The main must lie at a slope that ensures the drainage of contaminated water. The larger the diameter of the pipes you use, the smaller the angle of inclination required for their operation, on average it is 2 degrees. The depth of the trench for laying pipes must be greater than the amount of winter freezing of the soil. If the depth of the trench is small, provide thermal insulation of the line.

The average depth for laying a sewer system is 1 meter; in warm regions it is enough to go down to 70 cm, and in cold regions you will need to dig a pit up to 1.5 meters. The bottom of the dug hole is covered with a dense cushion of compacted sand. This procedure will protect the pipes from soil displacement.

The best option would be to lay a direct pipeline to the collector. If it is necessary to make a turn, this place will be equipped with an inspection well. For the main line, you can use plastic and cast iron pipes with a diameter of 110 mm; their connection must be airtight. After installation, the pipeline is covered with sand and then with soil.

The design, which does not require regular pumping of wastewater, consists of several tanks operating simultaneously. These can be two/three-chamber septic tanks. The first tank is used as a sump. It is the largest in volume. IN two-chamber septic tanks the sump occupies ¾ of the structure, and ½ in three-chamber ones. Here, preliminary wastewater treatment takes place: heavy fractions settle, and light fractions are poured into the next compartment as the first one is filled. In the last part of the septic tank, the final wastewater treatment takes place. The water is then directed to the filtration fields/drainage well.

The first 2 compartments must be sealed. The last chamber has holes in the walls/bottom. In this way, purified water seeps into the ground, which helps avoid systematic pumping of waste without causing irreparable damage to the soil.

It is worth considering that in addition to organic matter, wastewater also contains insoluble impurities. In view of this, such a structure will also have to be pumped out periodically to get rid of the sediment accumulating in the sump. This can be done with a fecal/drainage pump. The frequency of septic tank maintenance depends entirely on the size/volume/composition of wastewater.

To independently construct such a septic tank, you need to correctly calculate its volume. It depends on the water consumption of your household. The water consumption rate per person is 200 liters per day. So, multiplying this amount by the number of household members, you will get the daily water consumption in the house. Add another 20% to the resulting figure.

18 m3. In this case, you need a septic tank with a depth and length of 3 m, and a width of 2 m. By multiplying all sides, you get 18 m3. Minimum distance from the bottom of the septic tank to the drain pipe - 0.8 m.

The advantage of the treatment system is that the sludge is processed by anaerobic bacteria, as a result of which it settles to the bottom in a much smaller volume. Gradually this sediment becomes denser and rises. When the sludge reaches the overflow level, the septic tank must be cleaned immediately. You should resort to cleaning a septic tank quite rarely. This is due to the fact that the volume of sludge in 6 months will be from 60 to 90 liters.

Volatile septic tanks have built-in pumping units. Their non-volatile analogues should be cleaned manually or using sewer equipment.

However, not so long ago, biological products with special enzymes appeared that convert sludge into acid, and then into methane and carbon dioxide. To remove these gases, you just need to install ventilation in the septic tank. Thus, your septic tank will become an absolutely waste-free, safe and energy-independent treatment facility.

Bacteria need to be “fed” with oxygen to make them work more efficiently. You can buy containers for a septic tank or make your own.

Before installing the finished septic tank structure, it is necessary to determine a suitable location for this. The minimum distance between the septic tank and the house is 5 m. The sewer pipes leaving the house must be directed directly to the septic tank. It is better to avoid turning the pipeline, because it is in such places that blockages form.

The septic tank should not be installed near trees, as their roots can damage the integrity of the body. The depth of the septic tank and sewer pipes directly depends on the level of soil freezing.

If groundwater is close to the surface, then reinforce the bottom of the pit with a concrete slab/screed. The dimensions of the pit will depend on the size of the septic tank. If you have to install a compact structure, then it is easier to dig a pit manually in order to save money.

The pit should be slightly wider than the septic tank body. The gaps between the walls and the ground should be at least 20 cm, and preferably more. If there is no need to strengthen the bottom, then you should still lay a sand cushion 15 cm thick (meaning the thickness of compacted sand).

The top of the septic tank should rise above the ground. Otherwise melt water in the spring the device's equipment will be flooded.

After constructing the base of the pit, lower the septic tank into it. This can be done using cables placed in the ribs of the septic tank. In this matter you cannot do without an assistant. Next, connect the device to the communications, having previously dug trenches for the pipes, laid a sand cushion and installed the pipes. They should be laid at a slight slope - 1–2 cm per linear meter. The pipes are laid to a depth of approximately 70–80 cm.

The septic tank should be installed strictly according to the level. It will work better in a horizontal position.

To connect the sewer pipe to the septic tank, a hole of the appropriate diameter should be made in it. This is done according to the instructions for the cleaning system. After this, you need to weld the pipe to the hole. To solve this problem you will need a polypropylene cord and a hair dryer. When the pipe has cooled down, you can insert a sewer pipe into it.

If you are connecting a volatile septic tank, then after these steps you need to connect the electrical cable. It is carried out from the panel to a separate machine. It must be laid in a special corrugated pipe and placed in the same trench as the sewer pipe. There are special holes with marks on the septic tank. The cable is connected to them.

If the level of soil freezing in your region is high enough, then insulate the septic tank. The insulation can be any heat-insulating material that can be used for laying in the ground.

After connecting the electricity and pipes, the septic tank should be filled with soil. This is done in layers of 15–20 cm. To equalize the pressure during the process of filling the soil, you need to pour water into the septic tank. In this case, the water level should be slightly higher than the level of backfilling of the pit. So, gradually the entire septic tank will be underground.

If you are not satisfied with the finished plastic autonomous system to clean wastewater, due to its size or cost, then you can make a septic tank from several compartments yourself. An excellent inexpensive material for realizing your plans is concrete rings. You can do all the work yourself.

Among the advantages of a septic tank made of reinforced concrete rings, we note the following:

• Affordable price.
• Unpretentiousness during operation.
• Possibility of performing work without the help of specialists.

The following disadvantages deserve attention:

1. The presence of an unpleasant odor. It is impossible to make the structure completely airtight, and therefore the formation of an unpleasant odor near the septic tank cannot be avoided.
2. The need to clean the chambers of solid waste using sewage disposal equipment.

You can reduce the frequency of the need to pump out the septic tank if you use bioactivators. They reduce the amount of solid fractions by accelerating the process of their decomposition.

If the installation of the rings is carried out incorrectly, the septic tank will not be airtight, which will increase the risk of untreated wastewater penetrating into the ground. But, with proper installation, the septic tank will be sealed, so this disadvantage of the system is rightly called conditional.

The design of a septic tank, as a rule, includes 1–2 chambers designed for settling and purifying wastewater and a filtration field/filter well.

If there are few people living in your house and a minimum of plumbing fixtures are connected to the sewer system, then you can easily get by with a septic tank consisting of one septic tank and a filter well. And vice versa, if you have a lot of household members and many devices are connected to the sewer system, then it is better to make a septic tank from two chambers and a filtration well.

How to calculate the required volume for a septic tank has already been described above. According to building codes, the septic tank chamber must accommodate a three-day volume of wastewater. The volume of the reinforced concrete ring is 0.62 m3, which means that to build a septic tank for 5 people you will need a septic tank of five rings. Where did this amount come from? For 5 people you need a septic tank with a volume of 3 m3. This figure must be divided by the volume of the ring, equal to 0.62 m 3. You will get a value of 4.83. It needs to be rounded up, which means that to install a septic tank in this particular case you will need 5 rings.

The pit must be of such a size that it can accommodate septic tank chambers and a filter well. This work, of course, can be done manually, but it takes a long time and is very difficult, so it is more cost-effective to order digging a pit from a company with earth-moving equipment.

The bottom of the pit at the site where the settling chambers are installed must be concreted in order to avoid the possibility of untreated wastewater penetrating into the ground. Before we start concrete works, part of the bottom of the pit should be drained to install settling tanks by laying a sand cushion on it in a layer of 30–50 cm.

If you do not want to concrete the bottom, then you can purchase reinforced concrete rings with a solid bottom. They will need to be installed first in a vertical row.

The place for the filter well also requires preparation of the base. Under it you need to make a cushion of sand, crushed stone and gravel at least 50 cm thick.

To install the rings, you will have to order the services of lifting equipment. Performing these tasks manually is very difficult. You can, of course, install the rings by digging under the bottom ring. But this method is labor-intensive. And the bottom will have to be filled after installing the last ring, which will entail a number of inconveniences. In view of this, it is better not to save on ordering lifting equipment.

Usually the rings are fastened together with a solution, but for greater reliability of the structure they can be fastened metal plates or staples. In this case, your septic tank will not be damaged due to soil movement.

Now it’s time to organize an overflow, and for this you need to connect pipes to the rings. It is better that they work on the principle of a water seal, that is, they need to be installed with a bend.

To seal the joints you need to use a solution with an aqua barrier. The outside of the tanks must be treated with coating or weld-on waterproofing.

Another option is to purchase plastic cylinders that are installed inside the well. In this case, the likelihood of dirty water entering will be minimized.

Installation of ceilings/backfill

Finished wells must be covered with special concrete slabs, which have holes for installing sewer hatches. Ideally, backfilling of the pit should be carried out with soil with a large percentage it contains sand. But if this is not possible, the pit can be filled with soil previously removed from it.

Now the septic tank can be put into operation.

The system for treating wastewater from barrels, like a similar structure made of reinforced concrete, can be two- or three-chamber. Sewage will flow into it by gravity, so it must be installed below the sewer pipes. The operating principle of this device is similar to the design of reinforced concrete rings.

To set up an autonomous sewerage system based on the principle of a treatment system, you can use any containers. It could be old metal/ plastic barrels. The main thing is that they are airtight.

If you decide to make a septic tank from metal barrels, then they should be pre-treated with an anti-corrosion agent.

Plastic containers have a number of advantages over their metal counterparts:

1. A wide range of plastic containers that can be used to equip a septic tank.
2. The barrels are highly resistant to the aggressive effects of wastewater. Therefore, they last longer than their metal counterparts.
3. The light weight of the containers simplifies their installation at a permanent location.
4. Plastic does not require additional processing, unlike metal.
5. The high tightness of the barrels eliminates the possibility of penetration dirty waters into the ground.

Plastic barrels must be securely fastened when installed in the ground, because due to spring floods or winter frosts they can be squeezed out of the ground. In view of this, plastic barrels are attached with cables to concrete base(it must first be poured or a reinforced concrete slab installed). To avoid crushing plastic barrels, backfilling of soil should be done extremely carefully.

For seasonal use, sewerage from metal barrels is also suitable, but for stationary use this is not an option.

The popularity of metal containers for sewerage installations is associated with their compactness and ease of installation. Can be used as a lid of the appropriate size wooden blank or the one provided by the manufacturer. To install a metal septic tank, you need to dig a corresponding pit, which also needs to be concreted - the walls and bottom.

Metal containers do not have a long service life even after they are treated with anti-corrosion compounds. Therefore, installing them as a septic tank may be unprofitable. Buying stainless steel containers is not an option, as these products are very expensive.

Maybe you decide that in this case you can buy barrels with thin walls. However, this is also not the best solution, since during operation such a septic tank can be pushed out. And such barrels have a limited capacity - up to 250 liters, which is not suitable for a large family.

To install a reliable wastewater treatment system, it is better to use factory-made polymer barrels.

To make a septic tank from 220 liter barrels, you will need the following materials:

• geotextiles – 80 m2;
• sewer pipe Ø110 m, length 5 m;
• crushed stone fraction 1.8–3.5 cm, approximately 9 m3;
• corner for sewerage at an angle of 45 and 90º – 4 pcs.;
• plastic barrel with a volume of 220 l – 2 pcs.;
• coupling, flange – 2 pcs.;
• wooden peg – 10 pcs.;
• Y-shaped sewer tee – 4 pcs.;
• building level;
• drainage perforated pipe in the filter 5 m – 2 pcs.;
• epoxy two-component sealant – 1 pc.;
• glue for PVC – 1 pc.;
• plumbing tape – 1 pc.

Tools you will need:

• Shovel.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Rake.

For a dacha/small country house, if used sparingly, standard plastic barrels are suitable. Installing such a cleaning system is not difficult. If you do not pour black waste into the sewer, the septic tank will be unpretentious in maintenance. If there is a toilet in the house, then the sewerage system will have to be cleaned regularly by calling a sewer service.

For private homes with permanent residence, barrels will not be enough. For sewerage, it is better to purchase plastic cubes/tanks/tanks. The process of installing them in the ground is no different from installing barrels.

The distance of the septic tank from the house should not exceed 15 m. Too much distance will complicate the process of connecting the sewerage system to the house:

• there is a need for a large depth of the pipeline;
• On the way to the septic tank you will need to install an inspection well.

A sewage system made from metal barrels does not require large financial investments and complex work on installation. To begin with, as in previous cases, you need to prepare a pit, and then install 2 barrels, each of which has a volume of at least 200 liters. Then pipes are installed to transfer liquid from one barrel to another and transfer to the filtration fields/drainage well.

Each subsequent container must be located below the previous one in level.

The joints must be sealed, and the barrels must be insulated using polystyrene foam. After this, the pit and septic tank are filled up. Since, as mentioned above, metal barrels do not last long, you need to be prepared for the fact that after 3-4 years they will need to be replaced.

Schemes

The system is one of the most important and expensive engineering communications of a private residential building. The efficiency of operation, the complexity of installation, the number and cost of elements of this system depend on the elaboration of the project. Graphic part project documentation, according to which a sewer system is installed in a private house with your own hands - a diagram of the location of plumbing fixtures, connections and revisions. This article provides information about regulatory requirements and the main problems in drawing up layout diagrams, criteria for selecting sewerage equipment and features of its installation.

Read in the article

Rules for drawing up a sewerage diagram with your own hands in a private house

When drawing up a sewerage diagram, it is necessary to take into account regulatory requirements, both sanitary and construction:

• TKP 45-4.01-51-2007“Water supply and sewerage systems for residential estates”;
• SanPiN 42-128-4690-88“Sanitary rules for the maintenance of populated areas”;
• SanPiN 4630“Sanitary rules and norms for the protection of surface waters from pollution”;
• SNiP 30-02-97“Planning and development of territories of gardening associations of citizens, buildings and structures.”

When determining the volume and bandwidth sewer pipelines must be guided by the average water consumption per person. Septic tanks and cesspools cannot be located closer than 4 m to the border of a neighbor’s property and 15 m to drinking water.

The diagram should describe the mechanism for connecting internal and external sewerage systems, the type and structure of the septic tank, what products and equipment will be used, its technical parameters. Based on the list of materials used, the cost is calculated. The graphic part must be linked to the plan of the house and garden plot, where the places for laying pipelines and installing plumbing products will be indicated.

Key Factors Influencing Layout and Design

In addition to calculating the average daily water flow, the following factors influence the design of the sewerage scheme:

• Volume of salvo release- peak load on the sewerage system (as a rule, occurs in the morning and evening hours), which depends on the number of plumbing fixtures installed in the house;
• Performance treatment facilities . Depending on this indicator, one of three options for removing treated wastewater is selected:

1. up to 5 m 3 /day – discharge into the soil. Provided that the soil filtration coefficient has comparable indicators, and the discharge point is 1 m above the groundwater level;
2. up to 0.3 m 3 /day – periodic removal by special vehicle is allowed;
3. The discharge of wastewater into a reservoir is regulated not only by its quantity, but also by the degree of purification in accordance with the requirements of SanPiN 4630.

• M material for the manufacture of treatment facilities: , fiberglass, metal, various polymers ( , polyethylene). From technical characteristics the material depends on the design of the structure, installation method, further maintenance and operation;
• Providing power supply. Modern highly efficient treatment facilities are equipped with various types, compressors and aerators. They are based on electronic control units to which temperature and liquid level detectors are connected;
• Construction site topology– terrain, slope direction, proximity of water bodies and the presence of potential places for discharge of treated sewage water;
• Geodesy of the construction site– the type and structure of the soil, the depth of its freezing, as well as the depth of groundwater are determined. The complexity and cost of installation work, the need for additional or the purchase of a sealed septic tank with a closed cleaning cycle depend on the listed factors.

Types of sewerage structures and features of their functioning

In accordance with TKP 45-4.01-51-2007, the following types of treatment structures are allowed to be used for the installation and installation of sewerage in a private house:

• septic tank;
• filter well;
• field underground filtration;
• filter trench;

Important! In most cases, the listed structures should be used in conjunction with a septic tank, which carries out primary rough cleaning.

Septic tank

The most common when arranging a sewer system for a private home with your own hands are two types of septic tanks:

Storage containers are sealed plastic containers. They are affordable, do not require connection to the power supply network, and can be installed in close proximity to drinking water sources/wells. A significant drawback is the need for constant pumping of wastewater, therefore, constant payment for sewerage services.

With soil purification. Primary treatment of sewage water is carried out in sealed containers, where large fecal fractions settle to the bottom and are exposed to anaerobic bacteria. “Clarified” wastewater, the degree of purification of which does not exceed 40%, is pumped forcibly or flows by gravity into filtration structures, from which, after the final stage of cleaning, it seeps into the ground.

Filter well

The wastewater entering the tank passes through a gravel filter and through it seeps to the bottom and perforated walls, and from there into the ground.

1. pipe;
2. Plate bumper;
3. Pipe for the flow of wastewater.

For the arrangement, solid or perforated reinforced concrete rings with a height of 0.9 m are used, internal diameter at least 1.0 m and a wall thickness of 8 cm. The filter layer is medium-fraction gravel, which must be periodically removed, washed and returned to the container to avoid excessive soil contamination. The material used for making walls is often large-diameter plastic (with holes in the masonry) or car tires. Such options are much cheaper, but significantly reduce the life of the structure.

Underground filtration field

The site is laid with perforated walls. Through them, wastewater is distributed over a large drainage area and is absorbed into the soil, passing more evenly and in small quantities through the gravel filter. This method involves a significant amount of excavation work. When determining the depth of the pit, it is necessary to take into account:

• The thickness of the gravel filter is 20÷50 cm;
• Diameter of perforated pipes - 20÷50 cm;
• The distance from the ground surface to the upper edge of the filtration pipeline is 50 cm.

In addition, when forming the bottom of the pit, it is necessary to provide for a slope from the septic tank along the flow direction of 2 cm per linear meter. The distance between the pipes depends on the type of soil. For sand with a filtration coefficient of 5÷25 m/day, 2.5 m. For coarse sand filler with a filtration coefficient of 25÷100 m/day and a gravel filter with a filtration coefficient of 75÷300 m/day, the distance can be reduced to 2 m.

At the ends of filtration pipelines, it is imperative to install them with a diameter of 100 mm and a height of at least 70 cm above the ground surface.

Filter trench

A filter trench performs the same functions as an underground filtration field: collection of wastewater after a septic tank, its additional purification and discharge into the ground. A significant difference is the vertical arrangement of the pipes. This method is no less effective and can be implemented on a much smaller area. Allowed only in areas with a deep groundwater table, since the trench must also have significant depth.

The total length of the pipeline and the number of pipes and trench depth are calculated using the same methodology as used for underground filtration fields. The width of the trench is assumed to be 0.5 m, the distance between the upper and lower pipes is 0.8÷1 m, the maximum length of the pipeline is 30 m. If it is necessary to construct 2 or more trenches, the distance between them must be at least 3 m.

Components of the WWTP scheme

The most effective for a private home are sewer systems related to deep biological treatment plants. They are sealed containers divided into several functional compartments. As a rule, they have a vertical orientation, can be installed with your own hands and do not take up much space. The principle of operation of such installations is the interaction of fecal matter and organic pollutants with anaerobic bacteria in an environment saturated with air using aeration installations.

Important! Biological treatment plants require some maintenance. First of all, it is necessary to maintain an optimal population of anaerobic bacteria by periodically adding a special concentrate to the appropriate compartment. In everyday life, you should not use excessively aggressive chemicals that can destroy bacteria. The installation must be connected to the power supply.

The cleaning process is carried out in stages:

1. In the first section, which occupies the largest volume, pollutants are separated into fractions. Heavy and insoluble substances sink to the bottom. This chamber must be periodically cleaned using a vacuum cleaner;
2. In the second section (aeration tank), wastewater is enriched with atmospheric oxygen using the aeration method. Here the active phase of cleaning occurs using biological decomposition using bacteria;
3. In the third section - the settling tank, activated sludge is settled;
4. From the fourth section, where water is supplied by a jet pump from the secondary settling tank, completely purified water through an overflow pipe or drain pump discharged from the cleaning device.

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house - diagram and recommendations

The internal sewage system includes the following elements;

• Plumbing fixtures: , ;
• Sewer riser and ventilation pipe attached to it;
• Branch lines;
• Check valve.

Horizontal pipelines are installed with a slope. When installing sewerage in a private house standard indicators the slope is often neglected, doing it “by eye”, significantly exceeding the recommended coefficient. As a result, sewage solids do not have time to be washed out of the pipes along with water and accumulate inside, creating traffic jams.

Table of the dependence of the slope on the diameter of sewer pipes for a private house pipes

The connection of branch pipelines to the riser is carried out using oblique tees and crosses. Installation of sewer pipes, utility and technical rooms may be carried out in an open way. Fastening is carried out with special couplings with dowels, or the pipes are placed on supports. In residential premises, as a rule, they perform hidden installation. Sewage pipelines are located in technical niches and shafts, boxes, under the floor. To carry out maintenance - periodic cleaning, the main riser and sewer drain lines are equipped with inspections in accordance with the standards:

• Sewer riser on the lower and upper floors of a private house;
• Branch lines to which three or more plumbing fixtures are connected;
• At pipeline bends (this is where solid insoluble waste residues most often accumulate);
• On leprous horizontal sections every 8 m.

Video of installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands, correct laying of pipes with a slope:

Which pipes to choose

The optimal pipe material for sewerage in a private home is polymers. Products made from them are light in weight and can be installed by hand without the assistance of assistants. The industry produces a large number of adapters, tees, crosses and couplings across the entire range of used diameters. Installation is carried out without the use of specialized equipment and does not require long training or special skills. The approximate material is not subject to corrosion and aggressive influences household chemicals, has a long service life. The following polymers are most often used for sewerage in a private home:

• HDPE (high density polyethylene)- affordable, but sensitive to temperature changes. The maximum operating temperature should not exceed +40°C;
• PP()– has good performance characteristics, maximum operating temperature is +100°C, withstands aggressive chemicals and significant mechanical stress, and has a fairly high cost;
• PVC (polyvinyl chloride)- a material with an optimal combination of cost and quality. Can be used for both external and internal sewerage. Resistant to ultraviolet radiation, mechanical influences of medium intensity, temperatures up to +70°C. However, during long-term use, plaque may appear on the walls, which leads to clogging.

Pipe connection

The most common method of installing a plastic pipeline is a socket connection. It is performed if the pipe or fitting has a corresponding structural element - a socket. The connection process is as follows:

• The bell and smooth end are cleaned of dirt;
• A rubber seal is inserted into a special recess inside the socket, ensuring the tightness of the joints;
• Lubricate the smooth end of the other pipe with silicone grease or ordinary liquid soap, after which it can be easily inserted into the socket until it stops;

Important! It is necessary to provide for the possibility of thermal expansion. To do this, a mark is made on the smooth part of the pipe with a marker, after which it is pulled 1 cm out of the socket.

Stages of work on installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands

The sequence of arranging the sewer system of a private house can be divided into several stages:

1. Determination of the amount of wastewater, volume and productivity of the septic tank;
2. Determining the location of the septic tank on personal plot in accordance with sanitary standards;
3. Installation of an internal sewer network;
4. Installation of external treatment facilities;
5. Laying pipelines and connections for external treatment facilities and internal sewerage.

Calculation of septic tank volume

Table of water consumption standards for a private residential building.

The calculation formula is as follows:

V = n × Q × 3 / 1000 , Where

V – volume of the septic tank in m3;

n – number of permanent residents;

Q – average water consumption per person in m3;

3 – number of days of a complete cleaning cycle (according to SNiP).

For example, with an average consumption of 0.2 m 3 / person / day, taking into account a three-day reservation, for a family of 4 people you will need a septic tank with a volume of 2.4 m 3. To make calculations easier, we have developed a convenient calculator especially for our readers.

Table of the volume of domestic waste per 1 m 2 of the filtering surface of the well:

Table of the volume of household waste per 1 linear meter of underground filtration field pipeline:

Table of the volume of domestic waste per 1 linear meter of filtration trench pipeline.

Do-it-yourself internal sewerage wiring in a private house

The efficiency of the sewer system of a private house, as well as the ease of arranging it with your own hands, depends on the layout of the entire structure. It is considered optimal if the kitchen and bathroom are located as close to each other as possible, this minimizes the length sewer pipeline and allows you to connect all plumbing fixtures to one riser. When installing the internal sewage system of a private house with your own hands, you must consider the following factors:

• it is necessary to connect directly to the main riser of the sewer system at the minimum possible distance from the pipe, this will reduce the likelihood of blockage of the plumbing fixture;
• It is recommended to connect other plumbing fixtures to the sewer network above the level of the toilet connection, this will eliminate the possibility of fecal matter getting into the drain lines;
• The pipeline must be rotated using several angle bends. For example, two at 45° or three at 30°, this will provide a smoother turn and avoid clogging;
• The sewer riser must be led to the roof, where a fan hood is mounted on it, providing a sewer system inside;
• Maximum distance Connecting plumbing fixtures to the riser should not exceed 3 m, and the toilet 1 m.

Installation and equipment of a sewerage tank

To install a septic tank, regardless of its model, a pit is dug with dimensions slightly larger than the dimensions of the tank. A sand cushion about 10 cm thick is placed at the bottom of the pit. It is compacted and leveled as much as possible. To install septic tanks in a pit, it is recommended to use lifting construction equipment, since some models have quite a significant weight. In most cases, fastening elements are provided on the housing. After installation, the container must be leveled. Depending on the design, it may be necessary to install neck extensions.

Article