Propagation of dracaena by apical and stem cuttings. Features of begonia propagation at home

REPRODUCTION BY STEM CUTTINGS

Peonies are rarely propagated by stem cuttings due to the labor-intensive method and low yield of planting material. The reproduction rate depends very much on the variety and can reach 60-70%. Many varieties (especially interspecific hybrids) are not amenable to cuttings at all; on average they take root and produce a renewal bud of 15-25% of the total number of cuttings. The advantage of this propagation method is to obtain seedlings with a completely rejuvenated root system, while there is no need to dig up the mother bushes for a number of years and this method can be used annually on the same bushes.

The best results are obtained by stem cuttings of bushes at the age of four to ten years. Three to five days before the buds open, 30-40% of the strongest flowering shoots are cut from the mother bush and cuttings are cut from them (Fig. 8). Usually, from the lower and middle parts of one stem, two or three cuttings with two internodes are obtained. The cuttings are cut verywith a sharp knife, as shown in the picture. The bottom leaf is cut off, and part of the leaf blade is removed from the top one to reduce moisture evaporation. The lower ends of the prepared cuttings are immersed in a fresh solution of heteroauxin (one tablet per 1 liter of water) for 8-10 hours and the cuttings are placed in the shade. It is better to prepare them early in the morning. After treatment with heteroauxin, the cuttings are planted in a previously prepared greenhouse, in the lower part of which a mixture of good garden soil, compost and rotted manure is poured to a depth of 30-40 cm, and on top - a layer of washed river sand 5-6 cm thick.

The cuttings are planted obliquely to a depth of 3-4 cm so that the cut of the bottom leaf is covered, but the leaves do not touch each other. The distance in the row is 8-10 cm, between the rows - 15-20 cm. Before planting, the soil in the greenhouse is thoroughly watered a large number water.

The optimal conditions for rooting at the first stage of life during the first month are maximum humidity and temperature 20-25°C. In production conditions, maximum humidity is created by artificial fog installations. For this purpose, we used a room electric humidifier, which was turned on during the day as needed, on average for 8-10 minutes per hour (Fig. 9, a). In the first two weeks, it is advisable not to raise the frames, and in hot weather, regulate the temperature inside the greenhouse by shading if it is located in a sunny place. After two weeks, you can begin to lift the frames for ventilation for 15-20 minutes, gradually increasing the time over the course of a month to several hours a day. One to one and a half months after planting, the frames can be left open during the day and closed only at night. To prevent fungal diseases, it is better to water once a week with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and if signs of disease appear, spray with copper oxychloride (50 g per 10 liters of water).

For the winter, the cuttings are left in a greenhouse. At the beginning of October, their above-ground part is cut off, the soil is mulched with peat and covered with a layer of leaves, straw or spruce branches. In the spring (usually at the end of April - beginning of May), the shelter is removed and the cuttings with the formed renewal buds (Fig. 9, b) with a lump of soil are transferred to previously prepared ridges. At first, the seedlings are regularly watered and shaded; after active growth begins, they are cared for as for ordinary plantings.

This property is based on the ability living plant tissues undergo regeneration (transformation) when the normal conditions for their development are disrupted. Usually, after some time, an influx of callus appears at the end of the cut cutting, from which roots subsequently appear. There are plants whose cuttings take root without the formation of an overgrowth. Rooting cuttings requires light, heat, and moisture.

Stem cuttings are divided into woody (lignified) and green or winter and summer depending on the timing of cuttings. Winter cuttings they are cut after growth has finished, when the wood has already matured, while green cuttings are cut during the period of plant growth, when the shoots are still soft and not woody. Winter cuttings are called leaf cuttings.

Propagated by woody cuttings, mainly jasmines, hydrangeas, snowflakes, tamarix, spirea, buddleia, diervillea, forsythia, deutia, etc.

Cuttings from two-year-old shoots They take root worse than cuttings from lignified annual shoots. Cuttings are prepared in late autumn or early winter, but before the onset of severe frosts.

The cut rods for cuttings are stored buried in damp, sand in basements, or even just in the groove of the bed, under the snow, 1 bed should be covered. It is very important that the cut rods for cuttings do not dry out.

In spring, shoots are cut into cuttings with a sharp knife.. The lower cut should be under the bud itself, while the upper cut is made 1-2 cm above the upper bud.

If cuttings are planted directly into the ground, then the length of the cutting should be 25-30 cm; when planting cuttings in a greenhouse, its length can be only 5-10 cm. As a rule, the upper part of the shoot is of little use for cuttings, and the lowest part of the shoot is also of little use for cuttings. Cuttings are planted both in spring and autumn.

Experiments have shown that early spring planting of cuttings gives better rooting results. Caring for cuttings consists of shelving, loosening the soil, and watering. Cuttings planted in cold greenhouses in the spring take root more successfully. Greenhouses must be dry and ventilated frequently. The frames are shaded with something or, best of all, with inside The glass is simply whitened with chalk.

Cuttings are one of the most common and interesting ways reproduction indoor plants. Most often, a fragment of a stem or leaf is used as a cutting, which will subsequently take root. The method is based on the fact that a fragment of a stem (stem cutting), a piece of root (root cutting) or a leaf (leaf cutting) is capable of forming new roots and buds.

When cutting indoor plants, a distinction is made between so-called green cuttings with a thin stem, taken from non-lignified stems, and woody and semi-lignified cuttings, already hard at the base, but still with a soft top.

Stem cuttings. A large number of indoor plants are propagated by stem cuttings: geranium, lemon, oleander, ficus, fuchsias, ivies, begonias, tradescantia, monstera, phyllodendrons, indoor roses and many others, as well as plants with dense, fleshy, but not too lignified stems: dracaena, dieffenbachia, cordyline, yucca...

For a stem cutting, it is important that at least one growth point is captured, which forms a new shoot. If the apical cutting is cut off, then most likely the apical bud will grow. But if a cutting is cut without a top, then in this case you need to be careful. There must be at least one node on the cutting. If a cutting is cut without nodes, only internodes, then it will not produce a new shoot. Cuttings cannot be cut to the ground. If, as a result of cuttings, not a single node remains on the plant or in any part of it, the plant will stop growing.

The cuttings cut off from the mother plant should lead an independent life for some time. To do this, it needs leaves that will produce photosynthetic products necessary for the growth of roots and new shoots. However, the leaves evaporate moisture and until roots have formed, the flow of moisture into the plant is difficult. Therefore, very large leaves can be shortened somewhat. If the leaves are small or leathery and lose little moisture, then they should not be shortened. Lower leaves They must be completely removed from the cutting, since they do not perform the function of photosynthesis and are not needed by the plant.

Plants with dense, fleshy, but not too lignified stems: dracaena, dieffenbachia, cordyline, yucca are also propagated by stem cuttings, only the bare part of the stem is cut into several parts 3-5 cm long and rooted vertically or horizontally in the substrate. You should choose a young and strong stem, cut off the apical tuft of leaves and allow it to root in the usual way, like an apical cutting. Cut the remaining bare part of the stem into several equal parts 3-5 cm long.

Use a razor blade or sharp budding knife. The cut must be clean, precise and smooth. Each part should have at least 2-3 buds, thickened places where leaves once grew. This is where the dormant buds are located. Insert the cuttings vertically into the substrate for young plants, observing the direction of growth of the stem, or place them on the substrate, deepening them halfway. To facilitate the emergence of roots, lightly cut the bark on the side that is in contact with the substrate and sprinkle with a thin layer of hormonal powder.

Water, place the cuttings in a mini-greenhouse or cover with transparent film. Keep the cuttings at 22-25 degrees and dim light. Young shoots should appear in about 1.5-2 months. Gradually remove the plastic or glass lid, keep the cuttings warm and spray frequently.

General rules for propagation by stem cuttings

The cut must be precise and clean and pass over a leaf or pair of leaves without leaving a bare stump. The length of the cutting depends on the distance between the nodes from which the leaves grow. If the stem has short internodes and a large number of leaves, like Tradescantia, then 5 - 8 cm is enough. For large plants with long internodes (rubber ficus), take a cutting 10 to 15 cm long.

Preparing the cutting is called pruning. First, cut the stem again, this time under a node or under the lower bud. This is where the roots will begin to develop. Remove the lower leaves from the cutting, leaving only two or three large leaves or five small ones. On some cuttings, cut the leaf blade halfway to reduce water loss. Do not trim hard and shiny leaves, such as those of the rubber ficus, which are accustomed to minimum quantity moisture.

If the stem is woody at the base, dip it in hormonal powder. Cuttings of some woody plants are better accepted if a fragment of the main branch or cuttings with a heel are left at the base. To do this, cut off a side shoot with a piece of bark, pulling it downwards. The bark fragment should be no more than 1-2 cm.

Plant the cuttings in individual pots or 3-5 pieces in a large pot. You should use a substrate special for young plants, light and well permeable to water. After planting, water with a spray bottle or watering can with fine mesh. Place the cuttings in a mini-greenhouse or cover with plastic wrap. This is an ideal way to maintain a warm, humid atmosphere that is beneficial for rooting.

The easiest way to take cuttings is at home room conditions plants with soft stems: tradescantia, syngonium, coleus, pilea, balsam, geranium, ivy, etc. Large plants with strong stems are more difficult to cut. This operation should be performed from June to mid-September, as it will be easier for the cuttings to take root during the period of active growth. Palms and cycads cannot be propagated by cuttings, since they have only one growth point - the apical bud. Ferns that form tufts of leaves rather than stems are not amenable to cuttings. The same applies to annual plants, the stems of which die off after flowering.

If the plant takes root easily, then you can use a regular substrate. You can add vermiculite or perlite to the substrate to add lightness. To avoid rotting of the cuttings, instead of soil, use calcined sand or a mixture of sand and peat in equal proportions. The soil should be free of pests and pathogens. Peat, which is part of the substrate for cuttings, has a healing effect; it creates an acidic environment unfavorable for the development of bacteria.

To prevent the cuttings from developing fungi, the cuttings and substrate can be sprayed with a 0.2% solution of foundationazole. The most common reason for the death of cuttings is their rotting, overdrying, burns from sun rays, bad temperature regime. Rooting stimulants are not able to eliminate the main causes of death of cuttings. They can only help some plants form roots faster. When purchasing growth stimulants, you should pay attention to the expiration date and carefully read the instructions for use and strictly follow them. An overdose of the drug is dangerous. Instead of enhancing rooting, premature aging and even death of the plant can be achieved. By stimulating the formation of roots, these substances cause delayed bud formation or slower shoot growth. Therefore, it is better to dip only the lower part of the cutting into the solution or powder. Do not immerse the entire cutting in the solution. If leaf cuttings are used, the use of root formation stimulants is undesirable. For cuttings that are difficult to root, stimulants may be the only hope for rooting. Therefore, it is possible and necessary to apply them, but at the same time treat them as one of the conditions for success, but far from being the most important thing, and follow the basic rules of working with them. If you don’t have growth stimulants, you can do without them. Most indoor plants can take root without them.

Many plants can be taken from cuttings at any time of the year. However, the best results are obtained if the plant is actively growing or has just finished growing. For roses, the indicator of shoot readiness for cuttings is flowering. For woody plants, cuttings should have fresh growth, but have already become lignified. Coniferous plants form roots better immediately after a period of cool winter dormancy... Each plant has its own optimal time cuttings. But if it is possible in any season of the year to ensure that the plantings are heated from below to 20-25 degrees, then the time of year does not matter. If there are no such favorable conditions for cuttings, then it is better to postpone it to spring and summer.

You can try to grow a pineapple from the apical pappus after using the inflorescence for food, although the risk of failure may be high. The top of a pineapple with leaves is used as a cutting...

When purchasing, you should choose a fresh and beautiful fruit with healthy foliage, without signs of drying out or damage. The apical bud must be intact. It is advisable to buy for reproduction in warm time of the year, since in the cold season the leaves freeze slightly, since they need a temperature of at least 18 degrees, and temperature damage to the leaves is not immediately detected.

Cut the crown as low as possible, approximately 2 cm below the leaves, otherwise you may lose a significant portion of the leaves. Sprinkle the cut with crushed coal and leave for 1-2 days to dry so that it is not too wet and does not begin to rot. Plant the apical cuttings in a mixture for cuttings: peat and sand in equal quantities, that is, place the cut part on the surface of the substrate and lightly press it. Water and cover the pot with a transparent film that will be supported by the arch. This can create a warm and humid atmosphere. Place the pot under a light source. The temperature should be humid and high, approximately 24-26 degrees. For prevention, you can spray the leaves before planting with 2% foundationazole, repeating the treatment every 2 weeks. After a month, the plant should take root, of course, if everything is done correctly. It is necessary to carefully reduce humidity by increasing ventilation. The rooted topsoil can be planted in a suitable mixture of leaf, humus and turf soil with sand. Water only warm water and do not let the air temperature drop below 18 degrees. The lump of earth should not dry out between waterings, but excess moisture is also harmful. From spring to August, they begin to feed every two weeks and the temperature should be about 25 degrees. You can use mineral and organic fertilizers.

Growing plants from stem cuttings is the most popular method of vegetative propagation. However, its spread has only occurred in the last 150 years due to the emergence of accessible and cheap materials, the development of greenhouse farming, greenhouses, etc.

The main difficulty when propagating by stem cuttings is maintaining the viability of the cutting separated from the mother plant until it takes root and turns into a new plant. This is the main difference between cuttings and the method of propagation by layering (see pp. 108-109), in which the stem is not separated from mother plant until it develops its own root system.

Since the cutting is not connected to the mother plant, its vital activity is supported by creating special conditions in which not only roots should form, but also further growth of the young plant.

Material for cuttings

The ability of the stem to form roots depends on the age of the mother plant and variety, as well as on the type of shoot (see pp. 106-107). A gardener is more likely to propagate a recently formed plant that is a relatively new variety than an old plant or an old variety.

The mother plant is cut short to stimulate the rapid growth of young vegetative shoots, from which cuttings are cut; these shoots are characterized by high root-forming ability. The more the mother plant is pruned, the more intensively new shoots grow. In general, the success of cuttings is largely determined by the ability of the stem to form roots; if it is absent or weakly expressed, the stem cannot be used.

The ability of a stem to form roots may vary throughout the year. But this also depends on whether the shoot is lignified or not, etc. Cuttings from non-lignified shoots are prepared in the spring, soon after the buds begin to grow. Therefore, their ability to form roots is more pronounced than that of cuttings from woody shoots cut at the end of the growing season. But, since the woody shoot has not yet matured, it suffers more from drying out, is more often affected by diseases and rots. Therefore, increased requirements are placed on the growing conditions for such cuttings.

substances are used not only for the formation of roots, but also to maintain its vital activity until a new plant is formed. Number of spares nutrients There is more in a lignified cutting than in an unripe one, which is why it lasts longer. And you need to try to “force” the cutting to give roots as quickly as possible, before its food reserves are depleted. It should be exposed as little as possible to changing weather conditions, which can cause drying out; This is especially true for leafy cuttings.

The cutting is taken from a fast-growing shoot of the current year at the most suitable time for this (green shoots are cut, for example, at the beginning of summer, and lignified shoots - during the dormant period). Such cuttings root well without the use of any growth-regulating substances; Treatment of cuttings with hormones at this time has almost no effect. But it is useful to treat cuttings of difficult-to-root plants with growth regulators that stimulate root formation; artificial damage to part of the cutting gives a similar result.

Conditions for growing cuttings

The root-forming ability of freshly cut cuttings is highly dependent on temperature conditions. The formation of roots is determined by chemical processes; At elevated temperatures, the rate of chemical reactions increases, resulting in roots appearing faster. But if the entire cutting is kept warm, its top also begins to grow, and some of the nutrients necessary for root growth will enter the upper part of the cutting. Nutrient reserves may be depleted even before the cuttings are completely rooted. Therefore, the air temperature when growing cuttings should be kept low in order to retard growth processes in their upper part. The temperature of the lower part of the cutting, and therefore the root environment, on the contrary, should be increased - this will accelerate root regrowth.

The exact temperature varies depending on the quality of the cuttings as well as their response to water loss. When growing green cuttings in a root-living environment, maintain a temperature of about 21 ° C; the air temperature should be lower - to maintain it, it is convenient to use a fogging installation. Lignified cuttings are propagated in open ground, where the earth warms up quite well; The air temperature does not drop too low even in frosty weather. For

Cuttings of herbaceous, semi-ripe and evergreen shoots require warm and humid conditions. You can create them by placing pots with cuttings grown in the substrate under a shelter of polyethylene film, where small vessels with water are installed, or by placing pots with cuttings in larger diameter pots filled with moist peat. The main disadvantage of both methods is the danger of waterlogging, which can lead to the death of cuttings as a result of rotting and fungal diseases. Preference should be given to cold greenhouses, tunnels, and closed chambers.

Characteristics of cuttings depending on the type of shoots used

The shoots used to make cuttings can be divided into 5 groups.

Green actively growing cuttings with leaves are cut from the first spring shoots. Their stems are quite soft, as they are going through a period of very intensive growth. To prevent water loss and survival, such cuttings require very specific conditions. environment.

Nodal cutting

WHERE TO CUT CUTTINGS FROM

The lower cut of the nodal cutting should be located directly (3-4 mm) under the node or bud. Traditionally, green unripe stems are cut this way, since the tissues located in this place are more resistant to fungal diseases than remote areas. A cut in the middle of the internode is made, as a rule, when cutting cuttings from more mature lignified shoots.

Other cutting methods involve using a bud with a leaf, as well as cutting cuttings with a heel or hammer (see pp. 124-127).

Actually, green cuttings are cut from early to mid-summer, using the ends of leafy shoots. Their stems are soft, although not to the same extent as the first spring shoots. They should be propagated under controlled conditions, for example in a special chamber.

Semi-lignified cuttings can be cut at the end of summer. The stems used for this are already growing slowly and have passed the hardening phase. Although their leaves lack moisture, such careful control of environmental conditions as for green cuttings is no longer required.

Cuttings from mature wood of evergreen plants are usually cut into winter period. The shoots of such plants become almost completely lignified. But due to the presence of leaves, they only partially fall into a state of rest, and therefore are undemanding to environmental conditions.

Lignified cuttings of deciduous plants are cut from dormant shoots that have lost leaves. Growing them requires minimal control of environmental conditions.

Cutting the cutting at the internode

STEMES: STEM CUTTINGS

Cutting technique

Leaf cuttings

Cuttings, consisting of a bud with a leaf, can be cut from any shoots - green, semi-lignified and woody, both evergreen and deciduous plants. Each cutting consists of a leaf, a bud located in its axil, and a very short piece of stem. From the leaf comes the substances necessary to maintain the life of the cutting and regeneration processes; the stem of a new plant grows from the bud; the first roots appear on a small section of the stem.

For cuttings, you need to use stems with good root-forming ability. Mother plants intended for cuttings are heavily pruned in advance. As a result, the formation of new shoots with good root-forming ability is stimulated.

To obtain a cutting, one of these young shoots is selected. It is very important that the leaves on it are not damaged; they must already be unfolded and fully formed. It is also necessary to make sure that the bud located in the leaf axil is viable.

Cuttings are cut with a safety razor blade, knife or pruning shears, depending on the

Leaf cuttings

stem hardness. The cut is made as close to the bud as possible, trying, if possible, not to leave a stump. This reduces the likelihood of it rotting or dying.

The lower cut is made 2.5 - 4 cm from the upper one. As a result, the cutting can be firmly fixed in the substrate. This is especially important for plants with large leaves, which are very susceptible to putrefactive diseases. In addition, when planting plants with large leaves, it is quite difficult to maintain the required standing density. Therefore, their leaves are often trimmed or rolled and wrapped with an elastic band. In this case, the land area can be used more rationally. To stimulate root formation, the lower end of the cutting is usually treated with growth regulators.

In a pot filled with cutting mixture, make a hole with a peg. The cuttings are planted, trying to place the bud at the same level with the surface of the substrate. After planting, the soil is thoroughly compacted. Place a label and water the substrate around the plant with a fungicide solution. Cuttings of cold-resistant crops are grown in a cold greenhouse. More tender cuttings are best grown in special cameras with fogging units.

LEAF BUDDLE WITH OPPOSITE LEAVES

STEMES: STEM CUTTINGS

Cutting technique

Cuttings with a “heel”

One of traditional ways propagation - the use of cuttings with a “heel”. Such cuttings can be cut from green growing, semi-lignified and lignified shoots of both evergreen and deciduous plants.

The young side shoot is separated from the stem of the mother plant in such a way that a “heel” remains at its end - a piece of older bark and wood.

The point of this method of taking cuttings is to ensure normal further growth and formation of roots in the lower part of the stem, as well as to protect it from very likely rotting. In addition, such a thickened base of the cutting has a high root-forming ability.

Cuttings with a “heel” are most often prepared in cases where a significant period of time is required for the formation of roots. For example, this applies to cuttings,

Cuttings with a “heel”

those planted in the fall - after all, they have to survive the winter before root formation - as well as cuttings from woody shoots that are grown in cold greenhouses. Cuttings with a “heel” are cut from green growing and not yet lignified shoots, which are rooted under partially controlled conditions.

Grasping the base of a side shoot with a large and index fingers, it is torn off with a sharp downward movement, so that the separation occurs along with the long “tail”. If it comes off with difficulty, you can help yourself with a knife by cutting the tissue at the fork of the side shoot with the main one.

The piece of old wood that separates along with the cutting is trimmed; The same is done with nearby leaves. If semi-lignified or completely lignified shoots are used, the top of the cuttings is also cut off. The base of the cutting is treated with growth regulators that promote root formation. Odre-

spring cuttings are planted directly into the ground; cold greenhouses are used for rooting semi-lignified cuttings and cuttings of shrub species; more delicate cuttings are rooted in protected soil or special chambers. The cuttings are labeled and watered with a fungicide solution.

Hammer-shaped cuttings U hammer-shaped cuttings left

They plant a small piece of stem from older wood, which protects them from damage by rot. This method is mainly used for harvesting semi-lignified and lignified cuttings. Such cuttings are especially successful in autumn period many barberries.

For cuttings, it is best to use stems with weak growth, on which small side shoots are formed.

To stimulate the growth of new shoots on the mother plant that are capable of root formation, it is carried out during the dormant period.

Hammer cuttings

pruning At the end summer season Hammer-shaped cuttings are harvested from these newly grown shoots. The stem of the mother plant is cut with pruning shears at a right angle directly above the side shoot extending from it. The cut must be made as close to the fork as possible.

The lower cut is made approximately 2 cm from the first; as a result, the side shoot is separated as if with a small “hammer”, which is part of the stem of the mother plant. If the stem segment is thick, it is split with a knife. The lower leaves are torn off the cuttings.

The base of the hammer-shaped cutting is treated with a preparation that stimulates root formation. Use a peg to make a hole in the substrate large enough to accommodate the “hammer” and part of the cutting. Semi-ripe cuttings are planted in a cold greenhouse, lignified ones - in open ground: watered with water with a fungicide dissolved in it.

The amazing ability of plant organisms to reproduce their own kind from pieces of their own roots, shoots or leaves is widely used in the technology of artificial vegetative propagation of plants.

The part of the plant from which a new full-fledged individual can be grown is called a cutting, and the process itself, accordingly, is called cutting. As a rule, a specimen grown in this way will completely repeat all the characteristics and properties of the mother plant, which is very convenient when working with varietal and hybrid forms. Among gardeners and hobbyists indoor floriculture finds greatest application vegetative method plant propagation using stem cuttings. It is simple, does not require special skills, and most importantly, it gives quick and reliable results.

How to grow a new plant from a stem cutting?

It is unlikely that it will be possible to answer this question unambiguously, because stem cuttings can be three types: lignified, semi-lignified and green.

Lignified cuttings grapes, many berries and ornamental shrubs, willow, poplar, conifers. They are also called winter because they are prepared early spring or late autumn- during the dormant period, when plant growth has not yet begun or has already stopped. Lignified cuttings are usually cut from annual shoots 25-30 cm long, so that each has at least 3-5 nodes with buds. When planting, leave two or three buds above the ground and wait for leaves and new shoots to emerge from them. Parts of the shoot harvested in the spring can be immediately planted in the ground for rooting, and autumn parts can be placed in damp sand and stored in a cold room until the onset of the new season.

Semi-lignified cuttings- these are fragments of a stem not only with immature wood, but also with leaves. This way you can propagate shrub roses, lilacs, mock orange, clematis, deutia, tamarix, etc. They are usually harvested during the budding period and immediately planted in a prepared place. They can be from 7 to 15 cm long, with at least three eyes. They are usually buried by 3-4 cm. The lower leaves - from the bud, which will be underground - are torn off. They are used if propagation using woody shoots fails. They actually take root better, but in open ground they may not survive the winter. Therefore, it is recommended to dig up certain species and transplant them into a pot for the winter.

Green cuttings it is good to propagate herbaceous plants, which include most indoor flowers. Although, if you follow a certain technology, you can also grow from them not only shrubs, but also some types of tree species. Harvesting green cuttings from the parent plant during the period of its most active development and growth, which for garden crops usually occurs in May - early June. It is important that the green shoot has at least one growth point. For this, green shoots with an apical bud are used, but cuttings can also be cut from the middle part of the stem with several axillary leaves. If the leaves are large and evaporate a lot of moisture, part of the leaf blade is cut off (does not apply to small and leathery leaves). It is impossible to propagate by stem cuttings palm trees, in which growth occurs only due to a single apical bud, ferns - because they do not have a stem, as well as annual flowering plants– their shoots die off after flowering.

Success in propagation by stem cuttings depends, first of all, on the characteristics of the plant itself and its ability to form additional (adventitious) roots on its shoots. In some species this feature is higher, in others lower. To enhance root formation on lignified and semi-lignified cuttings, special chemicals are used - kornevin, heteroauxin. But they should be used exactly following the instructions, otherwise you can cause premature aging or even death of the plant.

Most common reasons Poor survival of cut cuttings occurs due to non-compliance with the rules during their preparation and rooting.

Reasons for poor survival

• To take cuttings, take only strong, healthy stems.
• Clean, disinfected tools and utensils are used for work.
• To obtain smooth and even cuts, the cutting tool must be sharpened.
• Peat mixed with calcined river sand is best suited as a rooting substrate, and in open ground the soil should be well-permeable to water and air.
• Until the cuttings develop their own roots, it is necessary to artificially maintain high air humidity, for which frequent spraying is used, as well as rooting under glass or film.
• Lighting should be sufficient but direct sunlight contraindicated.
• The optimal thermal regime is 20-25 degrees Celsius; it is especially important to provide heating “from below” - in the zone of formation of new roots.

Sometimes stem cuttings are rooted in water. Indeed, this way you can quickly and easily obtain a large root mass in some plants; for example, cuttings of Eschynanthus, Koleria, and Bacopa are rooted in water. But these roots are very easily damaged during planting and many of them die in the ground, finding themselves in an unusual environment.

The timing of rooting of stem cuttings is individual for each specific plant. But the fact that the “operation” was a success can be easily determined by appearance cuttings On lignified ones, dormant buds will begin to hatch over time, and on green and semi-lignified ones, first of all, the existing leaves will begin to look fresher and more elastic.