Air conditioner installation diagram. Useful information about installing air conditioners yourself

Now many people want to install not just an air conditioner in their apartment, but a split system. This is understandable, this system has a lot of advantages: it does not block natural light, since there is no need to embed it into window frame, does not depend on common system air conditioning of the house as a whole, and lastly, the system consists of only two blocks - external and internal. The only thing that stops many consumers from making a purchase is not knowing how to install a split system themselves, since this requires basic knowledge for installation of climate control equipment. We will try to correct the situation and familiarize you with the rules for installing such equipment. Let's look at everything in order.

What is a split system?

The air conditioning system consists of two separate units: the external one is the condenser, the internal one is the evaporator. These blocks communicate with each other using electrical wires and two copper tubes through which the refrigerant circulates.

The indoor unit also has a thin plastic tube through which condensed moisture is removed from the system.

Important! According to all the rules, the tube that performs the drainage function must be connected to a special drain tank or sewer pipe. But for some reason, many people take it outside and water from the tube drips onto people’s heads or under their feet.

How the system works

Climate control technology works quite simply:

1. If it is necessary to cool the room, the refrigerant passes through a copper tube from the heat exchanger of the external unit into the heat exchanger indoor unit. That is, in this case, the freon is processed by the fan, and cold air comes out of the air conditioner.
2. If, on the contrary, the room needs to be heated, then the heat pump of the external condenser begins to function as an evaporator, and the evaporator, in turn, begins to work as a condenser.

Important! The external block of the split system contains a compressor, the main function of which is to compress freon. This process significantly improves the efficiency of the device.

Methods for attaching indoor units

Depending on the mounting method, the indoor units of the climate system can be:

• Wall-mounted.
• Floor-ceiling.

You definitely need to know these points in order to understand how to install a split system yourself.

1. Most often, in apartments multi-storey buildings, apply wall blocks. To change the direction of air mass flow, wall blocks are equipped with movable blinds. The power of wall-mounted devices is specifically limited by manufacturers, since a very strong jet of cooled air can blow away everything in its path in a small room.
2. If a split system is needed for spacious rooms, for example, for workshops and offices, then in this case more powerful equipment with a floor-ceiling indoor unit is installed.

When is the best time to install an air conditioning system?

Installation of the system is best timed to coincide with repairs, since the work ahead will be dusty and serious. To install electrical wires, you will have to walk along more than one wall. Also, if you decide to install it yourself split system, then some important factors should be taken into account:

• The seller is not responsible for the malfunction of the product if the installation work was not carried out by a specialized organization.
• Before you begin installing the climate system, you need to understand what it consists of and how it works, so that even if the installation is carried out by specialists, you can control the progress of the work and its quality.
• To install the air conditioner yourself, you need a special tool. It should be taken into account that the list of specialized equipment is extensive, and not everyone has the skills to work with them.

Important! To save money, we recommend doing the following: do the main work yourself, and entrust the system connection and startup to specialists. In this case, the work will be cheaper, and most importantly, the warranty on the product will remain intact.

So, what can you do yourself to install a split system:

1. Prepare all electrical parts.
2. Mark the “route”.
3. Punch a hole in the wall to lead the “route” to the street. This is the hardest part of the job and it's worth it big money. Therefore, by doing this work yourself, you will save the lion's share cash, which must be paid to specialists for connecting the system.
4. Strengthen the blocks.

To ensure the installation of a split system is successful, adhere to the following rules:

1. The indoor unit is installed at a distance of 3 meters from the floor and at least 10 cm from the ceiling.
2. Do not place the indoor unit above cabinets, beds or near heating elements.
3. Do not install the indoor unit behind curtains, screens, drapes or other obstructions to air flow.
4. The indoor unit must not be installed in rooms with a source of electrical noise: induction and microwave ovens, electric ovens, in workshops with power tools. Interference from equipment can damage the unit's processor.
5. You cannot install a split system - its outdoor unit - yourself if you live above the second floor. This is dangerous to health and life. If you live on the top floor, then the outdoor unit can be installed on a balcony or loggia. It is better, of course, if the equipment is located on the north or east side. To install the outdoor unit on the balcony, you can use homemade small brackets.
6. The length of the freon route between the indoor and outdoor units should not be less than 3 meters.
7. Install external unit in such a way that there are no obstacles opposite it at a distance of 3 meters, otherwise air circulation will be difficult.
8. For a split system, it is necessary to carry out separate wiring and install a separate circuit breaker on the panel.

Tools for installing a split system

In order to install a split system yourself, you will need a number of accessories and tools.

Important! They can be rented or purchased. The quality of work and the durability of the air conditioner directly depend on the quality of installation equipment.

To work on installing a climate system, you will need the following equipment, which can be divided into the following groups:

1. Electrical equipment:
   1. Perforator with a set of chisels. This tool is necessary for punching holes in a main wall.
   2. Grinder with a diamond blade.
2. Pipe Tools:
   1. Pipe cutter for copper pipes. Under no circumstances should you cut freon pipes with a hacksaw, as copper chips will certainly remain in the gap, which will damage the compressor.
   2. Tube flaring kit. You cannot use improvised means, as it will be impossible to achieve complete tightness.
   3. Scouring. This is a tool for stripping cut ends of pipes. Using files and needle files for this purpose will result in the formation of sawdust.
   4. Hydraulic pipe bender.
3. Electrical devices installation work:
   1. Tester.
   2. Phase indicator.
4. Soldering Tools:
   1. Burner.
   2. Copper-phosphorus solder.
5. Refrigeration tool:
   1. Vacuum pump. It is necessary to treat the refrigeration system before filling it.
   2. Pressure gauge. Necessary for measuring the refrigerant pressure in the system.

Important! Take note of a few valuable recommendations that will make it easier for you to install a split system yourself:

• If the wall is concrete, then a reinforcement detector will not hurt, since if during drilling the tool hits the reinforcement, you will have to punch another hole.
• It is better to purchase a copper pipe in a whole coil. An extra wire will always come in handy, but long pipelines will allow you to lower the external unit lower. Be sure to make sure that the ends of the tube in the bay are factory rolled. The tube should not have cracks or dents.
• Be sure to practice cutting and scraping pipes: cut in a circular motion, and when scraping, hold the pipe end down so that the scraped burrs do not fall into its lumen.

How to install a split system?

Installation of the climate system is carried out in several stages. Let's look at each of them in detail.

Stage No. 1. Choosing the location of the air conditioner

Following the above rules, determine where the indoor and outdoor units will be located.

Stage No. 2. Electrical wiring installation

Even the lowest-power air conditioner consumes 1.5 kW of electricity. Therefore, the climate system needs to lay separate wiring with a cross-section of no less than 1.5 sq. mm. It is also necessary to install a separate circuit breaker in the panel.

Important! When connecting the wires to the input panel, find where the phase and zero are located, using special indicators, and mark them at both ends.

Stage No. 3. Installing an external unit

If you live no higher than the second floor, then using a powerful hammer drill, drill a through hole in the external wall with a diameter of 8 cm. Recommendations for a hole of 60 mm or 50 mm clearly do not take thermal insulation into account.

Important! Before you start punching a hole, be sure to seal off the area of ​​the street under the wall with tape so that a piece of plaster or concrete does not damage people or someone's car.

• The back wall of the block should not fit tightly against the wall of the house.
• The distance between blocks should not exceed 15 meters, and the height level between them should be no more than 3 meters.
• The brackets must be able to withstand the weight of the equipment, taking into account various weather conditions.
• Do not install the external unit directly under the drain hose, since the freon pipe also leads there. It is better to step aside 40-50 cm, otherwise the moisture accumulating in the condenser will fall on the inner wall of the air conditioning compressor.
• When installing equipment, make sure that the block is positioned strictly horizontally, without any slopes. Control the installation of the outdoor unit using building level.
• Fasten the block to the brackets using powerful bolts.

Important! It is advisable to install a canopy over the block to protect it from precipitation.

Stage No. 4. Installation of the indoor unit

The indoor unit is mounted on the wall in the room. Before proceeding with installation, be very careful about its placement. The unit must be located at a distance of at least 10 cm from the ceiling - this is necessary for the system to operate efficiently, and at a certain distance from the walls.

Important! All these parameters are indicated in the device passport.

The indoor unit must be placed strictly horizontally so that all condensate goes into the drainage system, otherwise water stains on the floor cannot be avoided.

Important! The product delivery set must include a special mounting strip, which is attached to the wall, and on which the unit itself is hung.

Stage No. 5. Pipe connections

Along the intended route of electrical wiring and freon tubes, make grooves (grooves) in the wall using a grinder with a diamond blade or a wall chaser. There is another option - the entire line can be hidden in plastic decorative boxes or covered with wires using baseboards.

Important! To avoid mistakes and connect all the pipes correctly, read the installation instructions for the split system.

1. Measure the required length of copper pipes. To do this, measure the distance between the block taps.
2. Cut them with a margin of at least 1 m. The excess will be used for bends. Remember that bending the tubes must be done very carefully to avoid wrinkles and kinks. The permissible bending radius of the tubes is at least 10 cm.
3. Place heat insulators on the refrigerant pipes - polyurethane foam hoses or flex insulation. Some kits include thermal insulators.
4. Place threaded flanges on the tubes and flare the ends.
5. Connect the pipelines to the fittings. The main thing is not to confuse the connection. Many climate system manufacturers have made cold and hot fittings of different diameters. Tighten the flanges on the fittings tightly, but not too tightly. When sealing, you will tighten the threaded connections.
6. For drainage system prepare a piece of reinforced plastic tube.
7. Connect the tubing to the drain using a threaded flange or heat shrink tubing. The drainage must be installed at an angle of at least 5-10 mm so that water drains naturally.
8. Connect the wiring between the units. The main thing is not to confuse the connection pins of the internal and external units; to do this, use a cable with multi-colored cores.

Thus, you have practically installed the split system yourself. All that remains is to invite a specialist to seal, vacuum and start the system. The main thing is that you have maintained the warranty on the equipment and saved the lion’s share of installation costs.

If you want to see how the next stages work, then read on.

Stage No. 6. Sealing and vacuuming

To check the seal, you can use a leak detector, or you can use an old one folk way- soap solution.

To prepare the solution:

1. Buy 0.5 liters of distilled water at the pharmacy.
2. Heat the water.
3. Throw shavings into the water laundry soap.

Further actions are as follows:

1. Connect the rubber hose of the bicycle pump to the outlet nipple.
2. Apply the soap solution with a brush to threaded connection.
3. Pump up the air and watch for bubbles to appear.
4. Once the bubbles stop appearing, tighten the threaded connection another ⅛ turn.
5. After completing the work, remove the soap solution with a damp cloth.

Important! It is better to carry out the work of checking the sealing by two people: one pumps air, the other applies a soap solution and watches for bubbles.

After checking the sealing, the system must be evacuated, that is, the dust, moisture and air that have entered there must be removed. Without these measures it is impossible to ensure efficient work devices.

Evacuation is carried out using a special pump connected to the system using a pressure manifold and flexible hoses:

1. Turn on the pump and open the port on the external unit.
2. After the gauge needle goes into vacuum, close the port.
3. Turn off the pump.
4. This entire procedure may take 15 minutes. However, do not rush to turn off the pump with a pressure gauge, as the arrow may change its position.

Important! Leave the gauges in place to double-check system pressure during testing.

Stage No. 7. Testing

To carry out testing, fill the system with freon from a cylinder through a special adapter on which a pressure gauge is installed.

Important! You can start the refrigerant only after you make sure that everything is sealed.

Refrigerant injection must be carried out in the following sequence:

1. Open the supply tube.
2. Open the suction tube.
3. Wait until the pressure gauge shows the pressure indicated in the instructions.
4. Turn off the freon supply.

Important! Air conditioners running on freon cannot be filled with refrigerant, and vice versa.

Next steps:

1. During testing, turn on the circuit breaker so that the air conditioner goes into operation on its own. If this does not happen, then run the test using the remote control.
2. Let the device operate for about 15 minutes so that the freon is distributed throughout all the tubes and take a control pressure measurement.

Important! At this point, work on installing the climate system can be considered complete. Right installed air conditioner should work silently, without fluctuations and internal rattling.

Video material

We hope that the information in the article helped you understand the operation of the split system and the stages of its installation. If you have any doubts about your abilities and knowledge, then you always have the opportunity to turn to specialists, because now you have enough information to control their work.

Choosing a location for placing the external and internal units of the split system.
Below we present typical air conditioner installation diagrams that most successfully combine the location of indoor and outdoor units. You need to determine the location of the indoor and outdoor units based on the following parameters:
Location of the indoor air conditioner unit: left or right
Location of the external (outdoor) unit: under the window, between the windows, on the balcony railing, on the balcony
Route location method: indoors or outdoors

Scheme No. 1. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit on the right wall, external under the window.

This is the most commonly practiced air conditioner installation scheme. The indoor unit of the split system is installed on the wall adjacent to the facade, and the outdoor unit is hung under the window. The convenience of this scheme, along with the ease of installation and further maintenance of the air conditioner, is that the indoor unit creates a directed flow along the window, without affecting in most cases the area where people are constantly present. Interblock communications, if the air conditioner is installed during the renovation of an apartment, are recommended to be laid in the wall, making the necessary recess in it. If the apartment has already been renovated, then the highway can be covered with a decorative box.

Scheme No. 2. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit on the right wall, external between the windows.

This scheme has all the advantages of option No. 1. In addition, interblock communications are extremely small and do not create problems for both the interior of the room and the facade of the house. From the outside, this installation option looks very neat and natural. The downside is the somewhat higher cost of installation (taking into account possible high-altitude work) and some inconvenience during maintenance and repair.

Scheme No. 3. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit on the right wall, external near the balcony.

This scheme is similar in functionality to option No. 1. Its big advantage is that the outdoor unit of the air conditioner does not block the view from the window at all. However, there is a subtle point - the balcony should either not be glazed or have windows that open from the end. Otherwise, both during installation and maintenance of the air conditioner, the services of an industrial climber will be required.

Scheme No. 4. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit on the right wall, external one on the balcony railing.

In this scheme, the outdoor unit of the air conditioner is installed directly on the balcony railing. The only condition is that the balcony railing to which the outdoor unit is attached must be suitable for this.

Scheme No. 5. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit on the right wall, external one on the balcony railing.

Perhaps this is the most effective installation scheme for an air conditioner using a balcony. Also suitable for most loggias, including glazed ones. If the installation of the air conditioner is carried out before renovation, then the route can be hidden under the balcony trim. The only condition is that the balcony railing to which the outdoor unit is attached must be suitable for this.

Scheme No. 6. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit on the left wall, external under the window.

This is the most commonly practiced air conditioner installation scheme. The indoor unit of the split system is installed on the wall adjacent to the facade, and the outdoor unit is hung under the window. The convenience of this scheme, along with the ease of installation and further maintenance of the air conditioner, is that the indoor unit creates a directed flow along the window, without affecting in most cases the area where people are constantly present. You also need to understand that when installing an indoor unit on the left wall, it will not be possible to bring this unit as close as possible to the corner of the room, because With this installation, you have to turn out the communication tails.

Scheme No. 7. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit on the left wall, external near the balcony.

The big advantage of this scheme is that the outdoor unit of the air conditioner does not block the view from the window at all. However, there is a subtle point - even if the balcony is not glazed, there is a high probability that the services of an industrial climber will be required. You also need to understand that when installing an indoor unit on the left wall, it will not be possible to bring this unit as close as possible to the corner of the room, because With this installation, you have to turn out the communication tails.

Scheme No. 8. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit on the left wall, external one on the balcony railing.

Perhaps this is the most effective installation scheme for an air conditioner using a balcony. Also suitable for most loggias, including glazed ones. If the installation of the air conditioner is carried out before renovation, then the route can be hidden under the balcony trim. The only condition is that the balcony railing to which the outdoor unit is attached must be suitable for this. You also need to understand that when installing an indoor unit on the left wall, it will not be possible to bring this unit as close as possible to the corner of the room, because With this installation, you have to turn out the communication tails.

Scheme No. 9. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit between the windows, external under the left window.

Scheme No. 10. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit between the windows, external under the right window.

This option is good because the air flow from the air conditioner is evenly distributed throughout the room and helps create a uniform temperature environment in any part of it. To install the indoor unit, a sufficient width of the inter-window wall opening and the absence of curtains in this part are required. It is recommended to use the scheme if the central area of ​​the room does not involve frequent presence in it, because This is where the main flow of cooled air will be directed. The outdoor unit of the air conditioner is installed under the window, which, as in all similar cases, makes it easy to maintain.

Scheme No. 11. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit between the windows, the external one between the windows.

The layout of the indoor air conditioner unit is similar to the previous option with the installation of the outdoor unit on the side of the window, the purpose of which is to reduce the inter-unit distance and reduce the length of the line as much as possible. I must say that such a scheme will fit very well into an already renovated room, because... will not require laying communications in grooves or using decorative boxes for this. Installation of the air conditioner is carried out, as installers say, “block to block”. It is recommended to use the scheme if the central area of ​​the room does not involve frequent presence in it, because This is where the main flow of cooled air will be directed.

Scheme No. 12. Installation of the internal air conditioner unit near the window, the external one on the side of the window.

This scheme is rational if there is enough space between the window and the adjacent wall to mount the internal air conditioner unit and it is not planned to use curtains along the entire length of the window wall. There should be no work tables, chairs, beds, etc. in the air flow area. It is quite convenient to position the internal unit of a split system in this way if, for example, you have audio/video equipment installed along the wall along which the flow will be directed.

Installing an air conditioner yourself involves performing a number of tasks, including choosing an installation kit, a location for the equipment, taking into account all the rules, as well as the actual installation of the indoor and outdoor units. The split system is the most common version of this technique, as it has fewer disadvantages along with fairly high operating efficiency.

Device placement rules

Installing an air conditioner yourself will not affect performance if you follow the instructions included with such equipment (if you purchase a new device). Often the indoor unit is installed at a considerable distance from the ceiling level. This option is quite acceptable, it is much more important to comply minimum size between the device and the ceiling, which is 10 cm.

The installation height of the air conditioner is also determined based on convenience and safety, since constant exposure to a direct flow of cool air from the indoor unit can cause frequent illnesses. Taking into account the fact that a split system requires air circulation, it is important to choose an area within a radius of 2 m in which there will be free space.

Installing an air conditioner yourself also involves installing an outdoor unit. At this stage, the range of work performed will depend on where the equipment is installed. If we're talking about about a private house or the first floors of multi-storey buildings, then there is the opportunity to secure the block on your own. The installation of an air conditioner in an apartment on the upper floors must be carried out by high-rise installers. If there is a balcony, then you won’t have to call the experts.

The best location for the outdoor unit is under the window or at the level of its middle. At the same time, it will be convenient to carry out installation, and it will also simplify the process of further maintenance of the equipment.

The rules for installing air conditioners also include calculating the length of the routes. In order to avoid further unnecessary inconveniences associated with refueling the device, it is necessary to position both units in such a way that the length of the route that connects them does not exceed 6 m. Minimum permissible size is 1.5 m. If, at the stage of planning the location of the blocks, a rough calculation turns out that the length of the route exceeds the maximum value, it is necessary to re-plan the equipment attachment points and achieve an acceptable length of the route.

Self-installation of an air conditioner is sometimes fraught with a number of mistakes, among which the most common is failure to comply with the minimum length of the route. If the outdoor and indoor units are supposed to be installed in close proximity to each other (that is, on both sides load-bearing wall buildings), it is important to leave a reserve, the so-called loop. This will smooth out vibration interference that occurs during operation of the equipment, and will also slightly reduce the noise effect.

If you ignore the rules for installing an air conditioner in an apartment, given the relatively small area of ​​the room, the operation of the equipment may cause bad sleep household members. In the case where the indoor and outdoor units are mounted at some distance from each other, there is no need for a loop.

Tools, components for installing the device

Equipment for installing air conditioners includes a whole range of specialized equipment that allows you to easily equip the units with the necessary components for full operation. So, you may need a pipe bender and a pipe cutter - the devices allow you to change the pipe configuration without associated damage and without forming chips, since there is a risk of them getting into the filter system. The pressure gauge station allows you to monitor the refrigerant pressure level. Installation and installation of air conditioners includes the need to monitor the tightness of the system before charging with freon; a vacuum gauge is used for this.

After the refrigerant has been charged, a leak test should be performed using a leak detector. Additionally, if necessary, other equipment can be used, for example, vacuum pump. Allows you to perform preventive and renovation work when servicing equipment. Tools for installing air conditioners include an electric drill, a hammer drill, and drills for making holes in concrete walls, a wall chaser may also be required if connecting routes need to be hidden. To maintain a strictly horizontal position of the equipment, it is imperative to use a building level.

If you are installing it yourself, you will need to purchase an air conditioner installation kit. Today there are ready-made kits that include all the necessary parts and elements for fully connecting the blocks and setting up their operation without losing the efficiency of the system. As a rule, connecting nuts are included there different sizes, thermal insulation material and copper tubes, a hose that serves as drainage, as well as two brackets for mounting the outdoor unit. The length of pipes and drainage is selected taking into account the configuration of the room, that is, you can choose a configuration that suits the individual requirements of your home.

All consumables for installing air conditioners are selected taking into account the model of equipment. You should also not skimp on the quality of connecting pipes, thermal insulation, fasteners and freon, since this directly affects the duration of the air conditioning system and the absence of the need for repairs, which can entail extra costs.

Incorrect operation of the equipment, for example, operation of the system in the complete absence of refrigerant in it will lead to failure of the compressor in very short time. short terms, and replacing this unit can cost more than two-thirds of the total cost of the entire system.

Installing and servicing air conditioners regularly will help avoid such consequences; you just need to periodically clean the system and monitor the level of freon in it.

Installation features

The air conditioner usually comes with a mounting plate, which is necessary for attaching the internal unit of the device. The air conditioner installation diagram involves drawing up a small project that determines the exact location and installation height of the indoor and outdoor units, the length and path of the connecting route.

In this case, it is important to follow the sequence of actions, for which instructions for installing the air conditioner have been created:

1. The first step is to mount the panel on the wall in a certain place, as well as at the appropriate level. Such nuances are precisely determined at the design stage. The mounting panel is installed using a building level, which will allow you to get a strictly horizontal line. The attachment points are marked with a pen/marker so as not to lose sight of the exact center distances.
2. Then you need to drill a hole in the wall large enough for the routes to pass through it. If you do not have the appropriate equipment at hand, you can try to route the connecting pipes through window opening by drilling holes in the frame.
3. Installation and repair of air conditioners are directly related to each other: the more accurately and correctly all the work is performed, the less often you will have to call a specialist to set up and repair the equipment. Therefore, you need to take into account even such nuances as the slope of the drainage hole, which will allow you to easily remove accumulated moisture.
4. Installation of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner requires special care due to its heavy weight. Brackets are attached to the wall according to the size of the device. It is important that the thickness of the metal of these elements is sufficient to withstand such a load. All work that needs to be done on floors above the second is carried out only by high-rise installers.

Next, it remains to flare the pipes and secure the ends of the routes to each of the blocks. It should be noted that when drilling a hole in the wall for laying pipes, the minimum diameter is 5 cm. If the routes will pass through a window frame, a separate hole is drilled for each pipe. Thus, installing household air conditioners involves several basic steps and does not require significant financial investments if you know how to use the tool.

Compared to other air conditioning devices, the split system has a more complex two-block design. This system consists of an external compressor-condenser module and an internal evaporator module with a corresponding number of communications through which freon and electricity are supplied and condensate is discharged. This scheme complicates installation, but does not exclude self-installation. To install such an air conditioner yourself, just read the instructions, make up for the lack of knowledge and experience through Internet resources, and consult with specialists.

Installation features depend on the design of the indoor module, which can be wall-mounted or floor-mounted. To save space in small apartments usually used wall mounted air conditioner. This split is somewhat more difficult to install due to the need for durable wall mounting. But regardless of the details, the work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. installation of separate wiring;
2. installation of an external condenser unit;
3. fastening the evaporator (indoor unit);
4. connection of communications with vacuum;
5. test activation.

Tools

To install the split yourself you will need a tool. It is recommended to include in the set:

• a drill with a hammer drill and a corresponding set of drills that is capable of breaking through a solid concrete wall;
• pipe cutter for neatly cutting pipes without the threat of clogging with copper shavings;
• a kit for flaring the edges of tubes, which will ensure the tightness of the connections;
• an example that can be used to strip the ends of connections;
• a pump, possibly a bicycle pump, to assess the tightness;
• vacuum cleaner, to remove moisture from the system by vacuuming;
• indicator screwdriver and tester for wiring;
• pressure gauge for pressure control.

How to choose a place

Before installing split system modules, it is necessary to correctly determine their location. For the external unit, the space should be:

• protect the device from direct sun rays and exposure to dust;
• guarantee the stability of the structure;
• provide sufficient space for normal operation devices.

Here such a situation is excluded, and the necessary protection of the unit is provided by the visor. An additional advantage is ease of maintenance. When choosing a location for the compressor you need to:

• provide protection from sun or heating;
• eliminate the threat of ignition of various vapors and gas leaks;
• provide the required free space and distance from the floor around the perimeter of the block as required by the instructions;
• prevent interference from constantly running electrical appliances (distance of at least a meter);
• guarantee the strength of the wall, preventing the structure from collapsing.

Installation of separate wiring

A split system, even in its most low-power version, requires at least 1.5 kW. Such power requires a separate line, unloaded by other consumers, especially in houses earlier than 1990.

It requires:

• two-core wire with a cross-section of 1.5 to 2 mm, always copper;
• 16A circuit breaker.

If you plan to hide the wiring in a groove, then you should take care of this during the renovation so as not to spoil the expensive interior of the renovated apartment. When the idea to install a split came after a renovation, the solution may be to install additional wiring in the box. In any case, this will allow:

• avoid overloads;
• prevent device failure;
• eliminate the possibility of fire as a result of a short circuit.

Installing an external condenser unit

The complexity of this stage depends on the location where you decide to place the air conditioner. Three options can be used:

• on the open balcony;
• on the loggia;
• on the wall.

On the balcony, it is enough to install short brackets and place the module on them. The protection function will be performed by a standard balcony canopy.

When choosing a loggia, you can limit yourself to the same brackets, but you should remember that a closed space does not provide the necessary air circulation, which will damage the air conditioner.

Help to avoid this open doors, which reduces the value of the loggia especially in winter time. It is impossible to mount the module on the wall without reinforced brackets, which must confidently support a weight several times greater than the mass of the unit itself. To attach them, it is better to use long anchors with a diameter of 20 mm.

Mounting the evaporator and installing communications

Before installing it, you need to mark the mounting locations. Check them horizontally and vertically using a level. After this, the work is performed in the following order:

1. Holes are drilled according to the markings and anchors are inserted.
2. The mounting plate is secured with screws;
3. In accordance with the position of the block, a hole is punched for communications (50 - 80 mm) with a slight slope outward for drainage.
4. A waterproofing cup with a tube is mounted in the holes.
5. a check is made to ensure that the wire is connected correctly to the terminals in accordance with the diagram.
6. Tubes with thermal insulation made of flex and drainage are connected to the corresponding pipes.
7. If it is necessary to lengthen the edges of the tubes with the nuts on, they are first flared.
8. Using electrical tape, a compact bundle (route) is formed from tubes, drainage and wires, which is passed through the hole to the outside.
9. The indoor unit is hung on a mounting plate.

Having completed the above work, you can install the external unit on the previously fixed brackets and lead the route to it. Excessive force should be avoided when bending the tubes to avoid deformation and wrinkles (the permissible bending radius is at least 100 mm). If the air conditioner hangs over the sidewalk, then you need to take care alternative options removal of condensate indoors.

Sealing and vacuuming

It is impossible to install a split correctly without sealing and vacuuming the communications. The connections are sealed using a soap solution and a regular bicycle pump. The solution is applied to the connections and the tubes are pumped using a pump. When bubbles appear, carefully tighten the nuts by 1/8. The procedure is performed until the bubbling stops.

Then vacuuming is performed, which removes air, dust and remaining moisture. To do this:

• open several running ports;
• connect the vacuum pump through the service port;
• turn it on and wait for a pressure of 10 mmHg;
• close the low pressure lever;
• turn off the pump, return plugs to all open ports.

Testing

Before checking, fill the split with freon or refrigerant, depending on the requirements of the instructions, to the specified pressure. Testing is activated using a circuit breaker. At correct execution After installing the air conditioner, it will automatically enter test mode. Its result should be:

• normal flow of cold air;
• correct position of the blinds;
• condensate drainage through drainage.

If all the signs are present, the split can be used every day. Otherwise, you will need to contact specialists. In this case, the warranty for the air conditioner will be lost.

So it is still not recommended to install such an air conditioner yourself. It’s better to immediately weigh your strengths and think about inviting a specialist.

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Split systems provide coolness in the hot season, normalize the microclimate and purify the air. The high cost of installation work encourages you to start connecting climate control equipment yourself. Sequential installation of a powerful air conditioner, done by yourself, is only possible if you comply with step by step instructions and standards.

Selecting a location

The presence of two or more units of climate control equipment requires choosing a location for each of them. Before starting installation work, you will need accompanying documentation.

Do I need permission to install an air conditioner?

Structurally, the air conditioner is a system with an indoor and outdoor unit, which is mounted on the facade.

Multi-storey building, on the basis of Art. 246 of the Civil Code is common property with the right of disposal by all owners. Installation of equipment without approval is a violation:

• the device makes noise, buzzes, disturbing the peace of the neighbors;
• condensation can damage the façade of the building or get onto the balcony below;
• the overall block blocks the view or view and windows;
• There are risks of wall cracking, wiring shorting and fire.

Based on paragraph 1 of Art. 25 LCD installation of a split system is considered as a reconstruction or re-equipment of the premises. Clause 3.5.8 of Resolution No. 170 states that it is prohibited to install an air conditioner without permission from the management company and neighbors. Consent or refusal can only be obtained after a meeting of the residents of the house.

Important! Residents of private homes can begin installation immediately after purchasing the device.

Permission is required if:

• installation work is carried out on the front part of the high-rise building;
• the user lives in a house that is valuable from a historical and cultural point of view;
• the split system is located above the pedestrian paths;
• There are no special fences on the window opening where the block is located.

Choosing a location for the indoor unit

Installation of the internal air conditioner module is carried out with your own hands so that cold air flows do not cause discomfort. It can be placed above the head of the sofa, on the side and behind the workplace. Construction regulations define the order of location of the indoor unit:

• from the structure to the ceiling - at least 15 cm;
• from the module to the right or left wall - at least 30 cm;
• from the block to the floor - 280 cm, but for apartments on the ground floor the external block is mounted at the same level or lower than the internal one;
• from obstacles to the movement of air flows - not less than 150 cm;

Where to locate the outdoor unit?

The outdoor module is placed near a window opening or on an open loggia. If the balcony is glazed, the block is placed on a fence with good bearing capacity or on the facade. Residents of the 1-2 floors need to determine a place for the outdoor module as far as possible from passers-by. On the 3rd or more floors, it is allowed to place the device under a window or on the side.

In a private house, the outdoor unit is placed on a wall with high load-bearing capacity. On ventilated facades, a special fastening is organized or the block is placed on the plinth.

Determining the distance between blocks

The maximum length of the intermodule route is 6 m; if it is exceeded, additional freon injection will be required. If the external and internal modules are placed at a distance of 1 m, the route should not exceed 5 m. The excess of the system is formed into a ring and placed behind the block.

Interesting to know! Manufacturers indicate different maximum distances between blocks. For Daikin equipment it is 1.5-2.5 m, for Panasonic - 3 m.

What you need for installation

Consistent installation of a good split system when doing it yourself should be carried out taking into account ease of access during maintenance and ergonomic criteria - cold air should not have direct access to resting and working areas.

Approximate layout of split systems

The appropriate layout for installing a new air conditioner depends on the type of unit. The indoor module can be hung:

• to the left of the outside. The track is flat, the block is located 0.5 m from the wall. When turning the line onto an adjacent wall, the distance can be reduced to 0.1 m. The output and the route are masked under the cover of the equipment;
• to the left of the external wall without cable laying on the facade. Communications are laid in the corner of the room and hidden in a box. They hide him under the curtain;
• to the right of outer wall. Standard solution with laying the route in a box from the wall or laying it in a groove.

The outdoor unit can be positioned:

• on the loggia or balcony. The module is fixed frontally or sideways for ease of maintenance;
• on glassed balcony. The window sash should be above the air conditioner. To prevent snow, moisture or debris from getting on the block, install a visor and plastic;
• under the window. This option is suitable for rooms without a balcony;
• next to the window. The block is placed at the level of the bottom of the window.

Air conditioner installation options

Advice! Do not use hollow or metal materials- they have low sound insulation.

Equipment

At self-installation climate control equipment will be needed:

• perforator for making through holes for the output of pipes, cables, drainage pipes;
• a pipe cutter with a sharp blade or a hacksaw for metal;
• file and rimmer for trimming nicks;
• a pipe bender or a special spring for forming copper pipes;
• a drill with drills of different diameters to make holes for the mounting plates;
• pipe calibrator and flarer;
• wall chaser, which can be replaced with a chisel, sledgehammer and hammer;
• vacuum pump to start the air conditioning system;
• screwdrivers, hex wrenches, level.

Materials and consumables

Use only quality materials, selecting them according to the type of equipment:

• supply wire for power supply and connection of modules - power cable for 4 cores with a cross-section of 2 mm2 × 2.5 mm2;
• seamless copper pipes with the diameter specified in the instructions. The length of the products is equal to the length of the route, and the margin is about 30 cm;
• insulating insulation (foamed rubber) - sections along the length of the route;
• synthetic insulation;
• corrugated hose with an internal plastic spiral for drainage or propylene pipe along the length of the route plus 80 cm;
• L-shaped brackets (2 pcs.) for fixing the outdoor unit with a permissible load limit of 5 times the weight of the device;
• fastening elements - bolts, dowels and anchors, selected according to the type of brackets for the internal module.

Basic rules for installing and connecting an air conditioner

Installation and connection of a household air conditioner when doing it yourself requires compliance with a number of requirements.

Rules for installing the outdoor unit

The module is configured as follows:

1. Checking a balcony or facade for strength is 2 times more equipment, which weighs from 10-15 to 40 kg.
2. Inspection of brackets on external insulation - they must be hidden in the wall material.
3. Laying a damping seal on a ventilated facade or aerated concrete walls.
4. Consideration of equipment noise - extremely permissible level ranges from 25 to 30 dB.
5. Check for distortions at each stage of installation to prevent refrigerant leakage.
6. Installation in a windy area with a canopy for protection from bad weather.
7. Maintain a line distance of 15-20 cm if the equipment is located on the roof.
8. Connecting the condensate collection pipe to the sewer.

Rules for installing the indoor unit

A second module is installed in the room and a line is laid:

1. Connection to the electrical network with the organization of an individual line - the energy consumption of the air conditioner is 2 kW.
2. Laying the main line externally (hidden in a box) or internally (hidden in a wall) methods.
3. Maintain a distance between blocks of a maximum of 6 m for efficient operation of the structure.
4. Removal household appliances, curtains from the device by 3 m.
5. The air conditioner is not located above radiators or furniture.
6. Maintain a distance of 20-25 cm from the block to the ceiling.

Installing an air conditioner yourself

Correct installation of a powerful split system will be done with high quality by yourself if you follow the sequential work instructions.

Installation of the indoor unit

The internal module or hair dryer is installed immediately. Installation activities include:

1. Taking measurements from the device.
2. Place the steel mounting frame on the wall strictly horizontally, checking with a level.
3. Marking the points where the fasteners will be.
4. Making holes in the wall with a hammer drill.
5. Fixing plastic dowels with a hammer.
6. Application mounting panel to the wall and fixing it with self-tapping screws.
7. Hanging the hair dryer on a special plate and checking that it is horizontal.

Laying a communication line

Experts advise users who do not know how to connect correctly household air conditioner without making mistakes with your own hands, start by preparing the main channels.

Electrical connections

High energy consumption of split systems (more than 1.5 kW) requires the organization of a separate line and the installation of an RCD. For the main line, a cable with a cross-section of 1.5-2 mm2 and automatic shutdowns are used. A yellow cable with a green stripe running along it is connected to the neutral (zero) wire of the input panel. Using the indicator, zero and phase are determined. If non-standard wires are used, neutral and phase sections are marked at both ends.

Air conditioner connection diagram
Installation diagram

Holes

It is better to carry out the work together:

• V block houses the locations for laying the reinforcement are determined so as not to harm the load-bearing walls;
• the assistant should be below and report on the installation;
• holes are drilled using a hammer drill;
• for houses without thermal insulation, the diameter is 50-60 mm, for thermally insulated buildings - at least 80 mm.

After preparing the holes, you need to install the brackets.

Pipelines

For preparation and installation you will need:

1. Slice copper pipe with a bend reserve of 1 m.
2. After cutting, carefully bend the product without kinks, observing the maximum radius of 10 cm.
3. Place flexible thermal insulation on the tubes - polyurethane foam hoses. Foam rubber should not be used due to rapid wear.
4. Place special flanges on the end of the pipe with threads.
5. Flare the ends of the tubes.
6. Connect the pipeline, cold and hot fittings one by one, checking their diameter.
7. Tighten the fitting flange firmly, but not too tightly.
8. Make a drainage channel from a section of reinforced plastic pipe, connecting it to the drain with a flange or heat-shrinkable pipe.
9. Make a solder by working the soldering iron in a circle.

Outdoor unit installation

The external module of the split system weighs more than 20 kg due to the compressor. Work at height is carried out with the involvement of 1-2 people:

1. Marking is organized using a level.
2. Holes are made using a hammer drill, taking into account the thermal insulation of the house.
3. Anchor bolts are screwed into the holes.
4. The brackets are screwed with a nut to the bolts.
5. To reduce vibrations, rubber is placed under the feet of the outdoor module.
6. The quality of the fasteners is checked and the external module is hung.

Connecting system units

The blocks are connected through channels in the wall with the cable connected to terminals similar to the color of the main wiring. If the level of the modules differs by more than 5 m, a special loop is made to catch the oil. If the difference is smaller, the loop is not performed.

Drainage

Drainage channels are equipped with a discharge to the street or to the sewer. The pipes are connected as follows:

1. A corrugation is pulled onto the outlet of the indoor unit (a plastic tube with a tip).
2. The connection is secured with a clamp.
3. A hose is placed at the outlet of the outdoor unit to remove moisture from the walls.
4. When using a polymer pipe, an adapter is selected.

Drainage pipes must be laid with a slope. The maximum is 3 mm*1 m, the minimum is 1 mm*1 m.

Freon circulation system

Copper refrigerant pipes are bent with a pipe bender or a spring without sharp turns. The connection begins with the indoor unit - the nuts are unscrewed from the ports. As they weaken, the hissing of nitrogen is heard. After it stops, remove the plugs, remove the nuts, put them on the tube and begin rolling.

Rolling

After removing the plugs from the tubes:

1. The evenness of the edges is checked.
2. The jags are smoothed out with sandpaper.
3. The cross section is adjusted using a calibrator and the edges are aligned by 5 cm.
4. The extreme parts are flared for fastening at the inlet and outlet.
5. During flaring, the edge of the pipe is directed downward and fixed with a 2 mm exit.
6. The flaring cone is placed on the edge of the pipe and tightened with force.
7. Rolling ends when the cone does not pass into the edge.

The operation is repeated for all segments.

Port connection

The flared end of the tube is connected to the outlet, and the nut is tightened. No sealants or additional gaskets are used. For a strong fixation, you will need a pressure of 50-70 kg so that the copper is flattened and the connection becomes monolithic. Work is being done for all exits.

Leak test

A solution is used for sealing. You will need 0.5 liters of distilled water, heated to boiling water. Dissolve 1 tbsp in liquid. l. laundry soap. The outlet nipple is removed and a bicycle pump is put on the pipe. When pumping, the compound is applied with a brush, and the thread is tightened until bubbles stop forming by 1/8.

Important! It is better to remove soap scum with a damp cloth.

Vacuuming

Vacuuming helps remove moisture, dust, and excess air. The system is pumped with a special pump for 60 minutes. During this time, moisture and remaining air are completely removed.

Filling and watering

The system is filled from a cylinder with refrigerant. The reservoir is connected via a pressure gauge with an adapter. The pressure is injected to the value specified in the manufacturer's documentation. Electrical wires connected via terminals - zero to zero or neutral. Phase ones are connected by color.

Important! Air conditioners with refrigerant are not filled with freon and vice versa.

Testing

The check is carried out as follows:

1. The circuit breaker turns on.
2. The air conditioner goes into test mode automatically.
3. For some models, the test is activated from the remote control.
4. If air flows at the end of the test, the position of the blinds is set.
5. Thermal shielding is performed with thin aluminum - this saves 2-3% more electricity.
6. The harness and drainage pipe are wrapped with insulating tape that is resistant to moisture.

On last stage holes in the wall are carefully sealed.

Common mistakes during air conditioner installation

With unprofessional installation, users can make a number of mistakes:

• laying pipes with kinks - increases the load on the compressor;
• installing an external unit on a balcony with glazing - normal air circulation is lost;
• location of the air conditioner next to welding machines;
• uneven arrangement of blocks - condensation begins to flow onto the floor;
• choosing equipment that does not have an auto-defrost option - in heating mode, the external unit freezes.

For normal operation of the air conditioner, you need to regularly clean the filters and drainage channels. When overloaded, the system becomes noisy - the fan is unbalanced or the bearings wear out. These breakdowns should only be repaired by a specialist.

1. Automatic switches designed for boilers and washing machines are suitable for split systems.
2. If the drainage pipes sag too much, condensation accumulates.
3. If you have never done flaring before, practice on an unnecessary piece of pipe.
4. It is better to carry out sealing together.
5. After connecting the pipeline, you need to blow out the holes polyurethane foam or fill with silicone sealant.

Watch a video on how to install an air conditioner yourself