Plaster spray. Technology for applying plaster mortar Technological process for plastering walls

One of the main purposes of plastering is to level the surface. The base that needs to be leveled often has very large unevenness and deviations from the vertical and horizontal, so the thickness of the plaster can be large. If applied in one go thick layer mortar mixture, it may slip during operation and crack after drying. Therefore, the surfaces are plastered in layers. Three layers of plaster are applied to the surface sequentially, with certain breaks: spray, primer, cover.

Depending on the quality of the finish (simple, improved, high-quality), the number of plaster layers varies. So, simple plaster consists of two layers: spray and primer. Improved and high-quality plasters consist of three layers: spray, primer and cover. At the same time, high-quality plaster has two layers of primer.

Splash- the first layer of plaster coating. It is applied to the surface to be plastered to improve the adhesion of the base to subsequent plaster layers. The mortar mixture for spraying should be liquid. Its mobility during application manually should correspond to the immersion of the reference cone by 8... 12 cm. The liquid, creamy mortar mixture fills all roughness, pores and potholes on the surface. The spray is not leveled, leaving it rough. This allows the soil and cover to adhere more firmly to the surface.

The thickness of the spray depends on the type of surface and the method of its application: when applied manually, the thickness of the spray is 3... 5 mm; when applied with mortar pumps to wooden surfaces- 9 mm, and for concrete, stone and brick - no more than 5 mm.

Priming- the second (main) layer of plaster coating. It levels the surface and forms the necessary basic thickness of the plaster coating. The primer is applied after the spray has hardened a little, but has not dried completely. When you press the spray with your fingers, it should not crumble. The solution for the soil is thick. Its mobility should correspond to the immersion of the reference cone: for soil without gypsum binder - by 7... 9 cm, with gypsum binder - by 8... 10 cm.

If the thickness of the plaster is large, then the primer is applied in several layers. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has been leveled and set. For good adhesion of the subsequent layer to the surface, each previous layer of solution should be slightly rough. To do this, it is cut with the sharp end of a trowel (Fig. 1).

Figure 1. Cutting a layer of solution

The thickness of each layer of soil should not exceed 7 mm for lime and lime-gypsum mortars and 5 mm for cement mortars.

The last layer of soil is leveled so that the covering layer on the entire surface to be plastered has the same thickness.

Covering- third (finishing) layer of plaster coating. The covering finally levels the surface, forming a thin soft layer of mortar that can be easily rubbed off. The coating solution is taken liquid, its mobility should correspond to the immersion of the reference cone by 10... 12 cm. Large grains of sand during grouting will leave small grooves on the surface, so the coating solution is prepared using fine sand, sifted through a sieve with cells no larger than 1 .5x1.5 mm.

Before applying the covering layer, the set, but not completely hardened, soil is generously moistened with water using a stone and allowed to be well absorbed. This allows the covering to better adhere to the ground, and the quality of the monolithic plaster will be high.

The cover has a thickness of 2 mm.

The average thickness of the plaster layer should not exceed 12 mm for simple plaster, 15 mm for improved plaster, and 20 mm for high-quality plaster.

Wall plastering technology is quite complex process which requires certain skills and abilities. The durability and quality of the resulting coating directly depends on whether all stages of the technology used when plastering walls are correctly followed.

With strict adherence to all stages of the work discussed in this article, and good diligence, you can plaster the walls yourself, without turning to specialists for help.

Before you start plastering, you must prepare the walls for subsequent plastering.

In order to obtain a durable and high-quality coating, you must follow the following rules:

• It is necessary to carry out work only when the base temperature is between +5 and +30 degrees, and the humidity level does not exceed 60%, but sometimes conditions may vary;
• it is necessary to strictly follow the instructions for preparing the solution recommended by the manufacturer;
• tools that are used during the application of plaster must be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed after each stage;
• In order to be able to apply the next layer, you must wait until the previous one has completely dried. The degree of readiness is determined quite simply: you need to press on the plastered surface with your finger and, if the surface does not crumble and does not sag under pressure, then you should begin applying the next layer.

The technique of applying lime-sand, gypsum and to the surface has some differences. Using classical technology it is applied cement-sand mixture, but other plaster mixtures are applied a little differently.

Classic wall plastering technology for cement-sand mixture

Classic technology includes three stages:

• splash;
• priming;
• cover.

Spray called the very first layer of plaster, the thickness of which ranges from 5 to 9 mm (on brick, concrete and stone walls - 5 mm, and when plastered on a mesh - 9 mm). The spray mixture is kneaded to the consistency of liquid sour cream.

The second layer of plaster coating is priming, the solution for it is mixed until the consistency of dough. It is applied in several stages until the irregularities on the surface are completely removed.

The third layer of plaster coating is cover, which is also mixed to the consistency of sour cream. Layer thickness is about 2-4 mm.

How to spray walls with plaster?

The spray is applied by throwing the solution onto the surface, using a trowel (trowel) or a falcon. The required amount of solution is placed on the falcon using a trowel. To do this, one end of the falcon is rested on the container in which the solution is located, and the other end is raised at an angle of about 25 degrees above the container and they begin to quickly draw up the solution (about 2-4 liters). When applying the solution to the wall, the falcon must be tilted towards the wall.

Using the end of the trowel or the right edge, the solution is collected from the falcon and then thrown onto the surface. The solution should be applied to different levels, left to right and right to left. This process is quite complicated and requires some training. It is necessary to level the surface after applying the plaster solution to it.

Application of primer

The soil can be spread or thrown on. You need to spread the plaster using a trowel or a trowel. It is necessary to pour the solution onto the falcon and then place it against the wall so that the upper edge is about 50-100 mm behind the surface, and the lower edge is completely pressed to the surface using the end of a trowel to a thickness equal to the thickness of the applied layer.

While the falcon is moving, it is necessary to spread the solution onto the surface and press the raised edge against it. If you spread the solution with a trowel, then you need to put the solution on it in a bed, put it against the wall and move it along it from the bottom up. The trowel should have a blade width of approximately 120-200 mm, in which case it will hold more solution. After the layer has been applied, it is necessary to smooth the surface using a trowel.

The primer must be applied in several layers. The number of layers depends on the thickness of the plaster layer required, as well as on the thickness of the existing beacons. Moving from bottom to top with sharp zigzag movements, as a rule, it is necessary to level the last layer of soil. You need to repeat this leveling rule several times, covering the depressions very carefully, until you get a smooth and rough surface.

The resulting plaster layer should be located on the same level as all protruding parts of the beacons.

Applying the topcoat - the last layer of plaster

The covering is applied by spreading it onto the surface. After this, you need to very carefully level it with a rule or a trowel, moving the tool along a wave-like path from bottom to top.

After plastering, the wall should have a rough surface, since it is the basis for the putty that follows after plastering.

Putty is needed to eliminate small differences in the size of 1-5 mm on the wall. Due to the fact that it contains a fine filler, the treated surface becomes smooth and can be easily sanded using sandpaper.

The process of preparing and applying putty is practically no different from the similar process of preparing and applying plaster mixture. Installation of beacons is not required. In order to prepare the surface for painting, you need to cover the walls with an additional thin layer finishing putty(about 1-2 mm). After this, the alignment of the walls is considered complete, and the walls themselves are completely ready for finishing work.

Compared to dry gypsum plaster, it has a number of advantages. Gypsum plaster mortar is the most flexible, dries quickly and is very easy to apply. In addition, cracks do not form on a plaster coating made of gypsum.

Mix dry gypsum mixture best in cold water, since from hot water it will set much faster. After some time, which is indicated on the package, you need to mix the mixture again using an electric drill on which the mixer is installed.

The mixture should be prepared in a small container (about 15 liters for one person), since you need to have time to work it out without allowing it to set and become unsuitable for work. The time it takes for the gypsum mixture to set depends on the manufacturer, but on average it ranges from 20 minutes to one hour. More detailed information can be found on the packaging.

Apply the gypsum plaster solution to the surface that has been previously primed using a wide spatula in the direction from bottom to top. In addition, you can apply gypsum mortar using the throwing method.

In one approach, you can apply the solution to the area between two beacons to a height of 70-100 cm, and then you can start stretching. In order to perform this operation, it is necessary to use an aluminum rule, which has a beveled edge. Using this rule gives excellent results. The rule must be pressed tightly against the beacons and moved from bottom to top to remove excess solution.

Using a spatula, it is necessary to remove excess solution from the rule and return it to the container in order to use it again. Quite often, leveling alone is not enough to obtain a good result, so you need to fill all surface defects (breaks, cavities, etc.) with the solution and repeat the leveling again.

After this, you can begin plastering another section of the wall using the technology described above. The finished sections need to be pulled up again from time to time, since the gypsum solution is plastic and can float under its own weight. This can happen if you apply too thick a layer of plaster at once (about 70 mm).

If the base has significant unevenness, it is necessary to apply plaster mixture in several layers, but before the next layer is applied, the previous one must be completely dry.

Walls that have been plastered gypsum mortar, you can then either or smooth it over with exactly the same plaster composition.

The gypsum plaster layer can be smoothed about 40-50 minutes after the end of stretching. In principle, smoothing is not at all different from puttying.

To do this, you need to dilute a little gypsum mixture to the consistency of sour cream, then apply it to the plaster, which has not yet dried, and “wipe” wide spatula. If necessary, you can repeat this operation several times, but only after the previous layer has set.

Smoothing will eliminate all existing burrs, cavities and other defects that inevitably arise during drawing. As a result, after this operation, the surface will become stronger, and it will also be glossy and smooth.

If you follow the technology of plastering walls and all the rules for performing this type of work, you will get a durable and high-quality coating, regardless of what plaster mixture you choose.

The plaster marking is applied to the surface in layers. The first layer - spray - is intended to connect the plaster to the base by filling the voids and cracks of the surface to be finished. Spraying is performed with a solution of liquid consistency. The spray forms a rough surface on the wall, increasing the adhesion area for the subsequent layer. The second layer - primer - serves to level the surface with a thicker solution and obtain the required thickness of the plaster. The primer can be applied in several layers with a thickness of no more than 7 mm each. The last, top layer - the covering - is applied with a liquid solution on fine sand to form a smoothed and compacted finishing layer about 2 mm thick (decorative covering - 5 mm). Average total thickness layers of simple plaster - 12, improved - 15, high-quality - 20 mm.

When applying a rule (the so-called flat lath) 2 m long, no more than two gaps of 3 mm are allowed on the surface of improved plaster, and no more than two irregularities up to 2 mm deep are allowed on the surface of high-quality plaster, leveled along the beacons.

The spray is made with a liquid solution, like kefir, by applying it to the wall plaster ladle or with a trowel, they use it to scoop the solution from the bucket and throw it on the wall. The spray should definitely be applied, but it requires skill. Did you play ping pong? When throwing mortar onto the wall, the wrist movement is approximately the same as when playing table tennis. You need to throw it not too hard, but not too weakly - so that the solution sticks to the wall, but does not splash. The applied solution is not leveled, but left to dry on the wall as is. Spray is the first layer of plaster coating. Its thickness should be no less than 2 and no more than 5 mm. The solution is applied by casting in a continuous layer, without gaps. Its purpose is to fill all the roughness, and wooden walls- get under the shingles and cling to it.

The primer solution is applied by spreading it with a trowel from a falcon, or with a ladle from a bucket. Primer is the second layer of plaster coating applied to the spray after it has set and slightly hardened. A solution of the thickness of sour cream or dough. This is the main layer of plaster. It is applied in one, two or more layers, depending on the required thickness of the plaster. Each layer is leveled, especially carefully - the last one, on which a thin layer of covering will be applied.

The prepared solution is applied to the falcon with a plaster trowel (Fig. 5). To do this, the falcon is supported with one end on the box, the other end is raised at an angle of 25–30° above the box, and with a trowel, a portion of solution (2–4 liters) is quickly drawn onto the falcon, straightened, that is, excess is removed from the edges to prevent loss of solution during carrying it from the box to the place of storage.

Rice. 5. Working with a plaster falcon

Applying the solution to the wall from the falcon is done in two ways: throwing and spreading.

Throwing mortar from a falcon. When applying the solution to the wall, the falcon should be tilted away from itself. Then the hand holding the falcon will be protected from the solution getting on it. The solution is collected from the falcon using the edge or the end of a trowel. The trowel with the mortar is brought to the wall, the hand makes a swing of the trowel with a sharp stop, while the mortar flies to the surface of the wall. However, you should not wave your hand too much, as the solution will splash. The solution must be applied at different levels, from left to right and from right to left (Fig. 6).

Spreading the solution. When plastering over metal mesh, shingles and sandless covering, the worker applies the solution to the surface with a steel trowel, moving it from the falcon. Holding the falcon in one hand almost horizontally, use a trowel to separate the layer of mortar. Angle the falcon as shown and spread some of the mortar onto the wall with an upward motion of the trowel. Then spread the solution over the wall. After each movement, turn the falcon about a quarter: this will maintain alignment and make it easier for you to hold the falcon in your hand.

You can spread the solution on the wall not only with a trowel, but also with a falcon or a trowel itself (Fig. 7).

When working with a falcon, take the falcon in one hand and the trowel in the other. The solution is applied to the falcon and placed against the wall so that the upper edge of the falcon’s shield is 50–100 mm from the surface, and the lower edge is pressed to the surface to the thickness of the applied layer. The falcon is pressed with the end of the trowel, resting under the key of the falcon, and it is moved. As the falcon moves, the solution is spread onto the surface, and the raised second edge of the falcon is gradually pressed against it. With the appropriate skill, you can level the solution very evenly with a falcon.

When working with a trowel, apply mortar on it in a bed, approach the surface of the wall, place the trowel on it, press and move it along the wall from bottom to top. The width of the trowel blade should be 1200 mm so that it can hold more solution.

The soil is leveled by smoothing or cutting.

Having filled the space between the beacons, you should level the solution with a trowel. Make sure that there are no air bubbles left in the solution and that the coating adheres tightly to the wall. The grater's movements can be zigzag: short - from left to right and right to left, long - up and slightly to the side.

To smooth out the markings, graters with a length of up to 1200 mm (when processing large surfaces) and a length of 800 and 350 mm (for small surfaces) are used. To make it easier to work, the corner chamfers are cut off from the ironing board, and one of the longitudinal and one of the end sides can be covered with roofing steel. The plaster coating must have the same thickness. Leveling the solution with a falcon and a trowel is done in the same way as spreading it, only there should be no solution on the instrument. If the grater pulls the solution along with it, then perform the indicated work after the solution has set a little.

To level the tentorium by cutting (Fig. 8), rules, markings and planar templates are used. The rule is to rest both ends against wooden or steel guide beacons and cut off excess mortar with them. The cut mortar is removed from the rule with a trowel and sent back to the mortar box. The solution in the mortar box is rejuvenated by stirring without adding water. Therefore, it is very important to determine the initial volume of mixing the solution; the volume should be such that it is enough for the period of time before setting begins.

Covering is the third layer of mortar 2–4 mm thick. It is applied to the ground, which must be well leveled. If the soil is dry, it must be moistened with water from a brush and a covering is applied to the wet soil. However, it is better to apply the coating to soil that has already set, but has not yet dried. This ensures the strongest adhesion of the cover to the ground. The thickness of the covering depends on the levelness of the soil. The thickness of the coating solution is the same as the primer. For plaster for painting, it is advisable to prepare it with fine sand, sifted through a fine sieve with cells of 1.5 × 1.5 mm. This type of covering can be rubbed cleanly and allows you to do without puttying when painting. When the thickness of the covering layer is more than 5 mm, the soil surface is cut into wavy grooves (Fig. 9).

Each subsequent layer of plaster (primer and covering) on ​​a cement binder is applied only after the mortar has finished setting, and on a lime binder - after the whitening of the previous layer begins.

As soon as the covering has set, begin grouting. The grout removes traces of the trowel and smoothes out bumps and holes. The dried covering is moistened with water from the brush and rubbed. You don’t need to wet it too much, since it will be impossible to wipe off wet plaster. After grouting, the covering should become even and smooth, without holes, bumps and traces of plastering tools.

Grouting is done “in a circle” and “dispersed” (Fig. 10), with a sponge grater, generously moistened with water. To form a perfectly smooth surface, re-smooth (no later than 24 hours after setting the mortar mixture) the surface, previously moistened with water. After secondary smoothing and drying, the surface becomes slightly glossy and is ready for high-quality painting.

When grouting, a circular float is pressed against the plaster with a cloth and it is used to make circular movements clockwise and counterclockwise. In this case, the tubercles of the solution are cut off, and the pits are filled with solution. If they are deep, then use a trowel to remove the solution that has accumulated on the edges of the grater, transfer it to the surface of the grater and cover the depressions with it. At the same time, the float compacts the solution. In those places where protrusions are visible on the plaster, you should press the float harder, and where there are depressions, ease the pressure. The grater needs to be washed or wetted periodically, so keep a bucket of water nearby.

When grouting in a circular manner, circular marks remain on the surface. To avoid them, the plaster is additionally rubbed down. It is done using fresh grout in a circular manner. First, approximately 1 m² of surface is grouted in a circular manner and then grouting is carried out immediately. There should be no bumps or missing places on the rubbed surface, since subsequent painting will show all the imperfections of the plaster.

Do-it-yourself wall plastering– this is a simple process, it is only important to perform all the technology correctly. If earlier this method was used to prevent the entry of moisture into the room and the subsequent “breeding of dampness”, to increase sound and thermal insulation, today plaster also performs a decorative function.

Agree, even if it's not textured plaster, and the solution was used exclusively for sealing seams and leveling folds, the general appearance Painted or wallpapered walls look much neater. As a rule, walls are plastered after the foundation has settled, that is, about a year or two after the construction of the building.

Properly plastering walls is a job of applying several layers of plaster. One, but massive layer is not enough. This is due to the fact that the thick layer of solution does not have time to set and slides.

Preparation of mortar for plaster

The first thing you need to do if you decide to plaster the walls yourself is to prepare the solution and the surface on which it will be applied.

To prepare the walls for plastering work required:

• hammer-pick;
• a hammer with a notch (an ax can replace it);
• shoe knife;
• spatula.

To prepare the solution directly you will need:

• box;
• container for water;
• sieve for sifting sand and dry mixtures;
• a sieve for straining the solution;
• scoop;
• shovel.

It is important to choose the right solution. It always includes three main components:

• binder material;
• aggregate;
• water.

When mixing all components, it is important to observe correct proportion so that the work is not in vain. The fact is that in the absence of fillers, cementitious materials begin to crack and crumble after drying.

As for the liquid, to prepare the working solution you must use only clean drinking water(in no case mineral) and in such quantity that the resulting mass is similar in consistency to dough.

The choice of aggregates and binding materials depends not only on the type of surface that is going to be plastered, but also on the operating conditions and durability of the structure.

Grabbing and applying plaster solution

After the solution is prepared and the wall is primed, you can begin plastering the walls. This procedure is performed in stages with a certain time interval.

1. The first layer is called splash;
2. second - priming;
3. third - cover.

Sometimes the primer is applied twice. Its total thickness on the walls is, as a rule, 1.5-2.0 centimeters.

The solution can be applied in two ways:

• by throwing;
• spreading.

Smearing- a simpler process in its technology, but only thick solutions can be applied using this method. A composition of any consistency can be sketched out, but this is somewhat more difficult for a beginner, since it requires certain dexterity and skills.

Using the scribbling method The first layer of plaster, the so-called spray, is applied. The creamy solution flows well into uneven areas, adheres reliably to them and holds all subsequent layers of plaster on the surface. After the spray has hardened, the primer is applied directly. A mass similar in consistency to dough is either thrown on with a trowel and leveled, or spread with a falcon.

Plaster leveling

As a rule, there is no need to level the spray. The exception is those cases when protruding clots of solution form on the surface and must be removed.

But the soil needs to be leveled. This is done either as a rule (in the case of throwing the solution with a trowel) or with the help of a falcon. The latter occurs when applying the solution with the same falcon. The leveling process in this case is similar to the process of spreading primer, only the primer is no longer placed on it, and the pressure on the tool is applied depending on the plane in which it is necessary to level the solution.

Applying a top coat of plaster

After the primer has been applied (if necessary, this can be several layers), it must be allowed to set and then brushed over it with a brush dipped in water.

Only after this can the final layer of plaster be applied - the covering. It is important here that there are no large sand particles in the solution itself, since when grouting and smoothing they can leave behind running streaks.

Step by step instructions

1. Apply the coating solution with a trowel, and use a trowel for leveling.
2. The last ones make wave-like movements from bottom to top.
3. When the covering layer has dried a little, but not yet completely dry, they begin to rub it with a grater.
4. Pressing this tool tightly to the surface, it is moved in circles, while the existing tubercles are cut off, and the solution removed in this way will fall into the recesses, leveling the plastered surface.

Working with decorative plaster

Plastering walls with your own hands can be done not only with the aim of removing any defects in the walls, improving their heat and sound insulation properties, and avoiding dampness and moisture entering the room.

Decorative plaster used for design purposes is sold in the form of dry mixtures in containers.

1. All you need to do with it is dilute it with water according to the instructions and mix thoroughly.
2. It is recommended to prime the walls the day before.
3. Afterwards the plaster can be applied to the surface.
4. How to do this, in which direction and with what movements depends solely on the desired result, on what kind of relief and what kind of pattern you would like to see in the future.
5. It may be necessary to make markings before applying the solution (this is required in order to obtain a certain relief, a pattern that is repeated at approximately equal distances).
6. If desired, you can add a little color (paint) to the plaster, or you can paint it after drying in the desired color.

When applied decorative plaster A perfectly flat surface is usually not required. It hides minor defects, but you still need to get rid of large irregularities!

Plaster mortar can be applied in different ways- to spread or scatter various instruments. Spreading is easy, but only applicable when using thick solutions. Throwing on is much more difficult; they can be used to apply any solution. On brick surfaces, the thickness of the plaster should be 5 mm or more, on concrete surfaces - up to 5 mm; on wooden ones - at least 25 mm, counting from the exit shingle, otherwise with thinner plaster the shingles will be visible, which, moreover, when warped, will form cracks in the plaster. In residential buildings, the plaster solution is applied in three layers.

Splash- the first layer, its purpose is to fill all the roughness of the prepared surface. It is spread in a layer 3-9 mm thick, covering the entire surface without gaps. The spray solution should have a creamy consistency. Before spraying, the surface is moistened with water. Thickness of this layer: for brick and concrete surfaces- up to 5 mm, for wooden ones - up to 9 mm.

Priming- the second (main) layer, it is applied to the spray. The solution for soil is thicker than for spraying. The soil forms the required thickness of the plaster, leveling out unevenness on the surface. If it is necessary to create plaster of large thickness, the primer is applied in several layers, the thickness of each should not exceed 15-20 mm, since thicker layers slide. The exception is lime-gypsum layers - they can be applied in thicker layers because they are thick and quick-setting.

Covering- the third layer of plaster, which has a creamy consistency. It is applied to the ground in a layer of 2-4 mm. In this case, the soil surface is leveled, forming smooth layer, which is easy to wipe off. The coating solution is prepared using sand sifted through a sieve with 1.5x1.5 mm cells. The spray and the first layer of primer must be applied by spraying in a continuous layer. The remaining layers of primer and topcoat can be applied by casting or spreading.

What solutions are used and when? Complete plastering of rooms with a humidity of more than 60% (for example, bathrooms) - cement mortars of the composition: 1 kg of Portland cement M-400, 2.5-4 kg of fine sifted sand - for spraying; 1:(2-3) (cement:sand) - for soil: composition 1:(1-1.5) - for the covering layer. Another option is to use cement-lime mortars: 1:(0.3-0.5):(3-5) (cement:lime:sand) - for spraying; 1:(0.7-1):(2.5-4) - for soil: 1:(1-1.5):(1.5-2) - for covering. Living rooms - cement-lime mortars: 1:(0.5-0.7):(4-6) - for spraying; 1:(0.7-1):(2-3) - for soil; 1:(1-1.5):(2-3)- for covering. When repairing small areas of plaster, the solution can be applied by spreading, and it must be prepared so thick that it sticks to the trowel. The surfaces to be repaired must be generously wetted with water.

Throwing mortar(Fig. 84).

Rice. 84. :
a - applying the solution to the falcon; b - taking the solution from the falcon with a trowel; c - applying the solution from left to right at different levels; d - applying the solution from right to left at different levels

It is convenient to apply the spray solution from the falcon. Having collected the required amount of solution onto the tool, you need to remove the excess from the edges so that the solution does not fall from the falcon when moving. The falcon in this method should lie in your hand. When applying the solution to the wall, you need to tilt the falcon slightly towards it, which will protect the hand holding the falcon from getting the solution on it. The solution is taken from the falcon with the right edge or the end of the trowel so that the blade moves from the edge of the falcon (away from itself) to its middle. Throwing the solution is carried out by swinging the trowel, followed by a sharp stop. The swing should not be very strong so that the solution does not fly off the trowel. When applying the solution, this has to be done from different positions: from left to right at head level, from left to right at waist level, or from right to left at different levels (Fig. 84). The ceilings are plastered, throwing the solution also in various ways(Fig. 85); away from you, above you and over your shoulder.

Rice. 85. :
a - over the shoulder; b - above oneself; in - from myself

In this case, the falcon is held at shoulder or head level, and, if possible, under the place where the solution is thrown. The solution can be applied in wide and thin or thick and narrow layers. The first ones are obtained with a sharp stroke, and narrow and thick ones - with a smooth swing of the trowel.

Leveling the solution. After applying the solution, it must be distributed over the surface so that it becomes smooth. For this purpose, as a rule, a falcon or a grater is used. Each layer of the solution is leveled; the spray is very rarely leveled (if only drops of the solution flow down). If the plaster is thin, then the spray is also leveled.

When performing the leveling operation, the falcon or grater can be moved in any direction: bottom, top, horizontally, vertically; At the same time, we must strive to obtain a clean, smooth surface without cavities. Where there is not enough solution, it must be spread, and excess must be removed. For leveling, it is best to use trowels 0.75-1 m long with even ribs, which allow you to obtain a more even surface of the plaster.

Spreading the solution. A solution of primer and coating is applied from the falcon by spreading, but spraying is always done by throwing. IN right hand take a trowel, in the left - a falcon with a solution. The falcon is placed with one end to the plastered area, but not close, but to the thickness of the applied layer of mortar, and the other side should be at a distance of 50-100 m from the surface (depending on the amount and thickness of the mortar). Pressure is applied to the falcon with the end of the trowel, resting it against the key, and the falcon is moved upward. As it moves, the solution is spread over the surface, and the raised edge of the falcon is gradually pressed against the wall (Fig. 86).

Rice. 86. :
a - a falcon on the wall; b - with a trowel on the wall; c - falcon on the ceiling; g - trowel on the ceiling; d - trowel on the wall; e - grater on the ceiling

When applying the solution with a trowel, one end of the tool is placed on the box, a “bed” of mortar is placed on it with a trowel, the handle is taken with both hands, brought to the surface, one long side of the trowel is pressed against the wall and the other is lifted. After this, move the trowel - on the walls from bottom to top, on the ceilings - away from you, spreading strips of mortar of equal thickness. The pressing force on the trowel is very important, ensuring that an even layer of mortar is spread, which does not require additional leveling.

Applying coating solution. The last, final stages of finishing plaster are covering, grouting and smoothing. The end result of this work should be a flat, clean and smooth surface. To do this, fine sand or other material should be used as a filler, for which it must be sifted through a sieve with 1x1 mm holes. The covering is carried out with the same solution from which the plaster is prepared - say, cement plasters cover cement mortar, calcareous - calcareous. You cannot apply a strong mortar over a weaker one, for example, cement over lime, as the plaster layer will peel off. Before applying the covering layer to the soil, the latter must be well moistened with water and allowed to absorb. After this, apply the prepared mortar in layers of small thickness using any plastering tool, then level it with a 1 m long trowel using wavy or straight movements.

Grouting plaster. When the covering has set, grout with a long float. Its goal is to obtain a flat and smooth plastered surface, without cavities and bumps. Grouting is done when the solution has hardened so much that it no longer sticks to the trowel, but is still quite plastic and can be deformed. The most convenient time for this operation is when the covering solution is rubbed without wetting with water. The grouting procedure looks like this. The grater is taken in the right hand, pressed against the surface of the plaster and moved along it in a circular motion counterclockwise. This is the so-called circular grout (Fig. 87). In elevated areas, the pressure on the grater must be increased, in depressions - weakened.

Rice. 87. :
a - round; b - acceleration

From time to time it is necessary to clean off the solution that accumulates on the edges of the grater. If the plaster has dried and grouting is difficult, it should be moistened with water using a brush. To eliminate the circular marks remaining after circular grouting, the grouting is carried out by distillation: the trowel is cleared of the mortar, lightly pressed against the grouted plaster and straight-line movements are made that erase the traces of the previous treatment.

Smoothing. This operation is a type of grouting and is performed with a special tool - a trowel, which is a wooden trowel 60 cm long with rubber strips nailed to its surface. The latter is stuffed either in a continuous strip or in separate narrow strips, so that it extends beyond the edge of the canvas on all edges by at least 2 cm. Smoothing is done as follows: apply the coating solution, level it well with an ordinary trowel, then smooth it with a smoothing iron in two directions: walls - first in the vertical direction, then - in the horizontal; ceilings - first towards the window, then - towards the window (Fig. 88).