Do-it-yourself path at the dacha. Do-it-yourself garden paths at low cost: interesting and easy-to-implement ideas for your site How to beautifully make paths in your country house

Without country paths It is impossible to imagine a suburban area: they not only connect the house with other objects, but also perform an important decorative function. By choosing the right material, you can create a harmonious picture in a single style, and by building paths in your dacha with your own hands, you can turn several acres into a unique and comfortable area.

The main reason for dividing country paths and paths into types is the material from which they are built. Its diversity allows you to choose best option for landscaping.

Natural stone is distinguished by its natural beauty and nobility, but its price is quite high.

Natural stone is ideal for the construction of curved paths: the stone elements are arranged in a chaotic manner, so it is easy to make smooth bends

Wood is perfect for landscaping in a rustic style.

The natural textured pattern on wood cuts depends on the type of wood, but an interesting effect can be achieved by also using special impregnations and varnishes

Brick is a wonderful material, especially if the house is also built from it.

For the construction of garden paths, ordinary solid building bricks are not suitable; it is better to use special ones. sidewalk views that are not afraid of water and frost

Paving slabs or paving stones will serve for a long time.

Using paving stones of different colors, as well as a specific laying pattern, you can create an amazing, original design that is suitable specifically for your garden.

Simple and inexpensive gravel paths are also appropriate in the garden.

Gravel is good not near the landscaped area around the house, but in the garden or near a stream - it blends better with wildlife

Concrete can be used to create unique paving slabs.

IN construction stores you can purchase special plastic molds, which are used for making road concrete elements with your own hands

By combining materials, it is easy to achieve a stylistic match between the paths and the surrounding natural and artificial objects.

You can combine completely different materials: natural stone and multi-colored gravel, wooden boards and river pebbles, brick and concrete

The location of the paths takes into account the landscape and climate

Paths are as important a strategic part of a suburban area as a house, garage or bathhouse, so you need to think about their arrangement before constructing buildings and utility rooms. For convenience, it is better to create a diagram by drawing it by hand or using a computer design program. Having identified important points, it is necessary to connect them by paths - straight or curved, depending on the terrain.

It is better if all objects are present on the diagram, including a garden, vegetable garden, greenhouses, bathhouse, gazebos - paths are the connecting element between them. The material for the construction of communication routes must be combined with buildings and surrounding decorative elements.

Paths on a summer cottage do not have to be of the same type: solid and step-by-step, straight and curved options are perfectly combined

When drawing up a diagram or site plan, you can indicate which plants and shrubs will be planted - this will help when choosing material for building paths

If it rains frequently in your area, you should definitely consider drainage system and dig drains along the edges of the roads to prevent stagnation of water. When constructing country paths with your own hands, remember: freezing, water will ruin the material - wood, brick, concrete. Powerful trees should not grow near the coverings as they root system easily disrupt the integrity of roads.

The more detailed the preliminary planning, the brighter the picture of the future dacha landscape and the easier it is to come to the choice of design elements

Analysis of the 3 best budget options

Owners of villas and luxury cottages will most likely not bother with sand and stones, but will invite a famous landscape designer and a team of specialists. Anyone who independently arranges a garden knows very well that to build original and comfortable paths it is not necessary to use expensive natural stone or collectible paving stones. Therefore, we will consider three options for creating tracks from the available and inexpensive materials: cement, brick and wood. Rest assured, the result will surprise you!

Option #1 – trail made of cement leaves

Lovers of short-cut lawns would never trade silky green grass for dense thickets of shrubs or a flower garden, much less give up a path that crosses the luxurious carpet in front of the house. But there is a clever option in which you can preserve the integrity of the lawn and at the same time create a kind of path that allows you to cross the grass surface directly.

Decorative concrete leaves are just an option that can be replaced with other elements: human traces, geometric shapes, animal silhouettes

To build a miracle path, you will need an ordinary plant and a plant that can be found somewhere nearby - burdock, or rather its large leaves.

Burdock leaves can be replaced with any other leaves, as long as they are large. As an option, use several leaves of different textures

In a small container, mix the solution according to the instructions and spread the thick mass on a large burdock leaf. Why not a filling mold?

Make sure that the cement solution has the required consistency: too thick it will lie unevenly, and liquid cement will not retain its shape.

After sand-cement mixture completely set, remove the sheet. We get the original decorative tiles– the main element of the track.

As you can see, nature turned out to be the best decorative artist - a decorative leaf with a natural pattern will not disturb the harmony of the lawn or garden

All that remains is to prepare the place for installation. Using a shovel or small spatula, carefully remove a piece of turf to create a shallow hole.

Device advantage step-by-step path for a lawn consists in the absence of a special tool: for example, a child’s scoop is enough to make holes

We lay the tiles in the prepared nest, then do the same with the remaining elements. The path turns out to be light, airy, harmoniously complementing the lawn. Walking on the beautiful decorative leaves is pleasant and safe even in rainy weather.

Option #2 – durable brick path

Brick is a universal material. You don’t have to worry about how to make a path in your dacha if you have the required amount of this durable material at hand, as if it was specially created for the construction of reliable coverings. Its advantage is that it is ideal for almost anyone country style. Red bricks, like gray ones, look amazing against the background of a building made of a similar material, combine perfectly with wood, and fit harmoniously into the natural environment. One piece of advice - you only need to use special paving material.

The advantages of brick are obvious: it is durable, lasts for decades, is easy to lay, does not slip even in the rain, and has aesthetic value

Main stages of construction:

• Defining boundaries and extracting soil.
• Preparation of sand and gravel base.
• Filling voids with sand.

The width of the trench depends on the size of the bricks and the pattern that will be laid out of them. Minimum width paths - 0.9 m. We determine the boundaries and mark them with pegs with a stretched construction cord. We remove the sod and dig a shallow trench. Its edges need to be reinforced with boards - they will serve as additional support for the border in the next two years. Then they can be taken out and the grooves filled with gravel chips or pebbles.

The brick base consists of two layers. The lower one is gravel and coarse sand. After backfilling, the gravel mixture must be evenly distributed along the entire length of the path and compacted.

Determining the depth of the trench for laying a brick path is simple: you need to add up the thickness of both layers of the base and the dimensions of the brick itself

Tamping the gravel layer is mandatory: loose material will provoke the movement of the remaining layers and, as a result, destroy the brick surface

The top layer consists of only sand. While leveling it along the path, press at the same time until the layer becomes dense enough. It is better to compact sections of 20-30 cm, so the base will be of better quality.

Having made the sand backfill, you need to level the surface: pull a special device towards you, while pressing on it so that the sand lies in a dense layer

The next stage is laying bricks along the boards. Before laying each element, dig a small hole, then place a brick in it and adjust its position using a wooden hammer. Products placed on the end will act as a border.

To “hammer” bricks into sand, it is better to use a special rubber hammer: a metal or even wooden one can damage the structure of the material

Taking into account the laying pattern, fill the space between the curbs with bricks, easily hammering them into the sand and regularly checking the level.

When focusing on a specific element, do not forget about the integrity of the path: regularly check the horizontal position of the bricks using a level

The last stage is filling the gaps between the bricks with sand. Gently add sand until it is level with the bricks. Water the path and repeat the last operation. Over the next few days, you can adjust the position of the bricks.

An ordinary cleaning brush will help to distribute the sand evenly: with its help you can easily move the sand over the surface and push it between the bricks

Option #3 - using wooden cuts

If you compare wood with stone, it will certainly lose: wood does not have the durability and strength of granite or marble. However, when constructing garden paths in the country, elements from this seemingly unsuitable material are used. Wood cuts, if the laying technology is followed, are excellent “bricks” for creating a decorative path in a rustic style.

By choosing wood cuts, you kill two birds with one stone: you “arrange” unnecessary cut trees and decorate the area with a beautiful and practical path

An old tree can be found right at your dacha or in the nearest forest. We cut the trunk into small segments - from 10 to 20 cm thick. Thick branches are also useful - small round ones are suitable for decorating a site or the edges of a path.

When removing soil when digging a trench, do not take it outside the dacha: it will be useful for filling the voids of the path, and the remains can be used for a vegetable garden or flower garden

We fill the bottom of the trench with sand, a layer of 5 cm is enough. We compact it and level it.

Place the sawn hemp along the path: this makes it easier to imagine how many of them will be needed, and in the future it will be easier to use when laying

We lay out the cuts on the prepared base. Using a level, give them a horizontal position; a wooden sledgehammer or large hammer is perfect for this. In some places, voids form - they can be filled with small saw cuts.

When laying large elements, do not worry about the large number of voids that remain between them: they can be easily filled with small stumps, gravel or pebbles

We fill the gaps between the wooden elements with sand or earth. In spring, they can be planted with lawn grass or small flowers - this will make the path look more artistic.

To determine how to lay out beautiful decorative paths in your dacha, just look around. Do not be afraid to use your own technological secrets during construction and design solutions- then the dacha plot will become truly unique.

Paths at the dacha connect all objects on the site: house, gate, summer kitchen, barn, gazebo, greenhouse, bathhouse, vegetable garden, shower. There is no way to do without them. In one area they can be made of various materials, have all sorts of configurations, but must necessarily fit into general form space. At your dacha, you can make paths with your own hands by first drawing up a plan.

Paths at the dacha connect all objects on the site: house, gate, summer kitchen, barn, gazebo, greenhouse, bathhouse, vegetable garden, shower

Designers recommend creating curved areas in small areas - this visually increases the area. Trees should not grow near paths, as their roots can damage the integrity of the surface. After drawing a diagram, estimate on the ground how convenient it will be to move from one object to another along the planned paths, so that later you don’t have the desire to redo everything. It's complicated. Paths even made from scrap materials, but well designed, give the area a neat, complete and cozy look.

First you need to decide on the coating. Most often it is made from paving slabs, concrete, stone, brick, wood, pebbles. General requirement for all materials - strength, moisture and frost resistance. The surface should be non-slippery and easy to clean. To mark and prepare the soil for laying, the following materials and tools are needed:

• pegs, cord;
• boards;
• shovel;
• sand, crushed stone;
• rammer;
• level;
• screwdriver

Determine the boundaries of the path by adding allowance to the formwork. Its width depends on the purpose. Usually, from the gate to the house it is made wide and continuous, but, for example, near the dog enclosure it can be narrow and intermittent. Pegs are placed along the marked edges and the string is pulled. Using a shovel, remove the turf to a depth of 10 cm, and level the bottom of the resulting trench. Straight lines of paths are limited by boards at the same level, securing them with stakes from the outside. The boards are screwed one to another using a screwdriver. Sand is poured into the trench and compacted. Its depth and height of the pillow depend on the selected material for covering and technological features of installation. The coating can be hard or soft.

Hard tracks

Hard coatings include: paving slabs, concrete, clinker bricks, stone, wood.

Paving slabs are the most common option for paths on the site. The market offers many types, sizes, shapes and colors. There are plenty to choose from, including reasonable prices. Depending on the location, it can be laid on sand, crushed stone or mortar. In this case, it is necessary to follow the rule: the paths must be paved with a slight slope so that water flows from them freely.

The tiles are placed tightly, their position is leveled with a level and a rubber hammer, and sand is added if necessary. The quality of installation is controlled with a wooden block: if the tile is raised, it is planted by tapping on the block. It is correct to start laying from the curb. Having finished the work, the seams are covered with a mixture of sand and cement and watered. In order for the path to maintain its shape, it is limited by curbs, installing them on a liquid solution.

If it is intended to lay tiles on concrete, then after a cushion of sand and crushed stone is made, across the path at a distance of 1 m along the entire length, they are installed on the edge of the board to provide a compensation gap for temperature changes. They are leveled along the formwork, which should protrude 2-3 cm above ground level. To prevent concrete from sticking, the boards are treated with machine oil or drying oil.

To make smooth turns, the formwork is made from wet plywood; it can be bent in any way you like. The constructed frame is poured with concrete: cement (M500), sand, crushed stone in a ratio of 1:4:6, add as much water as the mixture will take. To obtain a more plastic solution, a special plasticizer is used, you can use liquid soap. It is best to make the mass in a concrete mixer.

This is the most common option for paths on the site

A monolithic concrete path is inexpensive. It looks decorative if you add dye to the top layer and decorate it like a stone. The first layer of crushed stone is poured onto a prepared base 4 cm thick and a mesh with cells up to 20 cm is laid. When the solution hardens, a 3 cm layer of concrete without crushed stone with a small amount of water is applied on top of it, compacting it thoroughly. The surface is leveled and smoothed.

To decorate it like a stone, you can use bent reinforcement, applying a pattern to your taste. Usually along the edges of the path a pattern is made that imitates a small stone. To give the surface a characteristic porosity, you can treat it in places with a sponge. Until the concrete is fully matured, it must be protected from both sun and rain. The slower it matures, the stronger the coating.

Gallery: paths in the country (25 photos + video)

Forms for garden paths

You can make paths from decorative concrete by purchasing a special dry mixture and plastic or silicone mold with an image. Choose it with grooves that are small in depth and width, as dirt quickly accumulates in large gaps and the path loses its decorative effect. The shape pattern can consist of rhombuses, squares, fan-shaped rectangles, and all kinds of interlacing. Country paths made of decorative concrete look very stylish and are no more expensive than those lined with paving slabs. The work is performed in the following sequence:

• prepare the base as described above and cover it with a 10 cm layer of crushed stone;
• poured cement mortar and smooth;
• sprinkle with dry powder dye of the desired shade;
• stamp the surface with forms, laying them close to each other and lightly compacting them;
• after 3 days, wash the path with a brush dipped in a solution of hydrochloric acid;
• cover acrylic varnish, which protects against negative impact and gives great attractiveness.

You can make paths from decorative concrete by purchasing a special dry mixture and a plastic or silicone mold with a pattern in the store.

Instead of a dye, you can use a hardener, which, in addition to the pigment that gives color, contains quartz sand. You can start pressing when concrete mixture does not reach for the finger placed on it.

Stone and wood

For wooden paths, larch is mainly used as the most moisture-resistant material. Solid decking is installed on piles of blocks 10-20 cm high with a terrace board with a pattern so that it is not slippery. The soil is leveled only under the blocks, placed on cushions of sand and gravel, isolating them from the ground and timber with roofing felt. First, they lay out the boards completely over the entire area of ​​the path and only then attach them.

Despite the fact that wood is inferior in strength to stone and concrete and rots, tree cuts are used to create paths in a country house in a rustic style. Often logs left over from dismantling old buildings are used for this purpose.

The trunk is divided into stumps 15-40 cm thick, the top layer is sanded, the bark is removed and the part that will be underground is treated with an antifungal agent, after which it is laid on the prepared surface and leveled.

Paths can be built from stone. They look very harmonious. It is not recommended to use shell rock and limestone, as they are short-lived and also slippery. Most often they are laid on sand. Making such a path will be slow, since each stone should be inspected, choosing the smoothest side, which will be on the outside. Often they have to be filed down. Having laid 2-3 m, the completed section is fixed by filling the cracks between the stones with a liquid solution of cement and sand (1:3). It’s convenient to do this by using a kind of cone made from an empty bag with a corner cut off. Plates for stone paths must be at least 4 cm thick.

For wooden paths, larch is mainly used, since it is the most moisture-resistant material

Original new material for coverings - decking, or garden parquet. It consists of small sections made from planks of hardwood trees. Garden parquet is laid on supports that are selected in height so as to smooth out differences in ground level. The basis for decking can be a sand and gravel cushion, a concrete covering with a drain, or wooden joists. The water underneath should not stagnate. It is installed quickly and easily. At the end of the season, it is disassembled, washed, lubricated with special oil and stored in a dry room.

How the paths will be designed suburban area, its entire design largely depends. Even in such conditions when it is not possible to perform labor-intensive and expensive work, you can choose more available options, which have been developed and already tested by folk craftsmen.

You can make paths in your dacha with your own hands from a variety of materials by choosing the appropriate option from those presented below. For example, ordinary bricks or round timber, sawn from logs, round, average size pebbles or regular corks from plastic bottles. There are also removable options for tracks that can be laid exclusively for the summer period. By the way, such paths can also not only be purchased ready-made, but also made independently.

In any case, before laying any garden paths, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work.

First of all, you need to schematically place the house and outbuildings on the plan, connecting them to each other and paving the way to the entrance gate - these will be the main paths, which in any case cannot be avoided.

Then, you need to plan paths leading from the house to various areas of the site, for example, to a gazebo, swimming pool, playground or zone.

If there is a need, then, having brought the path to the garden or vegetable garden, it is worth branching it in such a way that it is convenient to reach every corner of the site in any weather, since the absence of paths is especially unpleasant for moving on “bare” ground during or immediately after rain .

Once the project has been drawn up, you can transfer it to the site.

Marking on the ground

To determine the width and direction of the paths, it is necessary to mark the area. This is especially important if they are kept in certain width sizes - for example, laid out from ready-made tiles or bricks.

Marking is carried out using driven pegs and a cord pulled over them. To make it easier to visually estimate what the direction will look like and whether the width of the path is sufficient, each border on the sides can be sprinkled with a little lime.

The best option is if, along with the path, you immediately mark the location of the plants that will frame it, since everything on the ground looks somewhat different than in the project.

In places where bushes and trees will be planted, which will be located along the path, you can install signs or lay out stones, and mark the boundaries of future flower beds with lime.

It must be remembered that the pit to be torn off must be somewhat wider than the track itself, since in order for it to serve long years, it must be fenced on both sides with stone or concrete curbs. Whatever material it is planned to build the path from, such a preparatory part will in any case improve the quality of the work and allow the laid path to function for a long time.

Having made the markings, you can begin preparatory excavation work.

Preparing the base for a garden path

To prevent the path from crumbling in a year or becoming overgrown with grass with the same sad outcome, you need to carry out serious preparatory work. It must be remembered that the path should have a slight slope in one or both directions. In addition, a small trench is made on the side of the slope into which water will flow during rain.

• First of all, from the places where the path will pass, a fertile layer with a thickness of 15 ÷ 200 mm is removed. To ensure that the depth of the pit is approximately the same along its entire length, it is necessary to control its sides using a ruler.

• Next, in order to maintain the evenness of the edges of the future path, boards are installed inside, along the entire length of the walls of the pit, but it is advisable to first add and compact a little sand under them.
• If the pit is limited by concrete curbs, then their width should be 70 ÷ 100 mm greater than the height of the walls of the pit. The curbs are leveled, and to prevent them from moving, they are fixed with reinforcing bars, which are driven into the ground inside the trench, next to the curbs. The length of the rods should be from 250 to 350 mm, and this segment should be driven in at 200 ÷ 300 mm. The pin remaining above the ground surface will hold the curb in the desired position.

• If the walls of the pit turned out to be uneven due to excessively loose soil, then you will also have to drive reinforcing pins along the walls, and then install curbs, pressing them against them, aligning them and also fixing them on the other side pins.

• Next, crushed stone or gravel mixed with sand or cement is poured into the bottom of the pit. can range from 50 to 100 mm after compaction.

...and careful compaction to maximum density

• After backfilling and distribution throughout the pit, the resulting surface is periodically moistened and thoroughly compacted.

The type of material being poured will largely depend on the overall thickness of the “cushion” and the type of top decorative coating. Also, do not forget that between the “cushion” and the top lining, most often there should still be a layer of sand.

Types of garden paths for a suburban area

As mentioned above, paths can be made of different materials. It is worth considering the installation of some of them in order to accurately determine the choice of the most suitable option.

brick path

Brick makes a fairly reliable, durable and aesthetic path. It is laid, in principle, using the same technology as paving slabs or. In order for such a path to last a long time, you need to choose high-quality clinker bricks and carry out work very neat.

• The base for the path, with a compacted top layer of sand, needs to be well leveled using a homemade rule.

The rule is made from boards with perfectly even and smooth end sides. The board should be 200 mm longer than the width of the path. The corners of the bottom of the board are cut to the thickness of the brick. Upper, longer, uncut parts the boards will serve as a stop and limiter when leveling the sand layer.

• When the entire sand layer is leveled, you can begin installing the side bricks in the path, which are installed on the edge and driven half-width into the sand with a rubber hammer.

Laying and driving in a line of “border” bricks

• If the construction of the path does not include a curb, then the side bricks are fastened together with mortar, and after it hardens and is removed, they must be secured on the outside with reinforcing pins, and then a backfill of crushed stone must be made, which will need to be thoroughly compacted.
• After installing the side bricks on both sides of the path, you need to decide what pattern will be laid out in the middle of the path. The brick can be installed on the end or laid on its wide side.

• To make the masonry rigid, you need to lay one row along and the other across the path, driving the bricks into the sand at the same height as the framing ones. However, to make the path as reliable as possible, it is recommended to fasten the bricks together with a cement-based adhesive solution intended for street work - this will also reduce the risk of grass growing in the cracks between the bricks.

It is advisable to place the solution in such a way that it does not protrude from above, but remains inside the masonry, which means that not too much of it will be required.

• After completing the laying of the path, the gaps between the bricks are filled with sand. To do this, it is poured onto the path and distributed with a long-haired brush, first over one area, then in another - and so on until all the gaps are completely filled.

The remaining excess sand is swept off the surface with the same brush.

• Next, when the path is almost ready, the formwork from the boards is removed from its sides. Crushed stone of the middle fraction is poured along the outer edge of the path and carefully compacted, and another layer of crushed stone is freely poured on top of it.
• To brighten the color and prolong its service life, it is recommended to treat the brick with a penetrating primer, and after it dries, coat it with varnish that is suitable for stone in outdoor conditions.

With some assumption, a type of such paths can be considered those that are laid out from thick. How the process occurs is shown in detail in the video.

Prices for paving stones

Paving stones

Video: master class on laying a garden path

Round timber path

Option #1

To “pave” the path with posts, you need to take a dried tree of one of the hardwoods. The round wood must have a flat surface, so sawing them must be done very carefully.

Then the surface of the stumps is cleaned and leveled.

• To create a path, logs of different diameters are taken so that the space in the pit can be filled as tightly as possible.

The height of the round timber should be twice the height of the walls of the pit, counting from compacted crushed stone, that is, the columns should rise above the surface of the soil located around the future path by 100 ÷ 130 mm.

• When the log blanks are prepared, it is necessary to treat their lower part with an antiseptic, which will protect the wood from biological pests and the negative impact of ground moisture on it.

This is best done by placing the hemp one by one in a container with liquid and leaving for 3 ÷ 4 minutes. The rest of the surface is simply applied with a wide brush. Before installing paths in the pit, the round timber is thoroughly dried.

• After drying, the hemp is dipped in “Kuzbass varnish” for a few seconds - it will perfectly protect the wood from moisture. However, the disadvantage of this composition is that its structure is destroyed by exposure to ultraviolet rays and overheating. However, if it only treats the lower part of the stumps, which will be covered by the pit wall, sand, geotextiles and crushed stone, then such harmful effects do not threaten.

A replacement for varnish can be ordinary heated tar, which, when cooled, forms a fairly dense film on the surface of the stumps - it is not afraid of any heat, nor sunlight.

• Prepared round timber from trunks of different diameters begins to be installed on compacted on the bottom pit crushed stone as follows:

— A small amount of sand is poured onto the transverse wall of the pit at the beginning of the path.

— Then, the first row of round timber is installed. It must be carefully selected in size so that it fits as tightly as possible.

— Sand is poured between the logs to the level of the top of the pit walls.

“Such cyclical manipulations continue until the end of the path.

• Along the edge of the path, a sandy border is filled and compacted.

Option No. 2

Another option using round stumps, which is installed in combination with crushed stone or gravel.

In this case, only a curb is assembled from stumps, and the remaining stages of work with removing soil, pouring sand and installing stumps to the walls of the pit are carried out in the same way as a path made entirely of logs. The process takes place in the following sequence:

• A “cushion” of sand is poured and compacted at the bottom of the pit;
• Then, along the edge of the future path, stumps are installed, which are driven in at one level and sprinkled with sand. Sand bedding compacted directly near the bottom of the stumps;
• After the borders of logs are completely laid out, geotextiles are laid on the entire surface of the path, the edges whom bent onto stumps by 80 ÷ 100 mm;

• The next step is to make an embankment of gravel or mid-fraction crushed stone directly onto geotextiles;

The gravel embankment is distributed over the entire area of ​​the path in an even layer. If necessary, the layer is increased, since it should be equal in height to the ground level of the entire site.

The gravel layer should act as a second retaining wall for the stumps in the border.

• If the top of the stumps have different colour, but you want to achieve harmony in the design of the path, then they can be covered with paint intended for external work, and the shade in this case is selected to the taste of the owner of the site.

Path made of round river stones

For those who value originality - a mosaic path made of river stone

Paths with amazing curls are made from Altai river stone, which has bluish shades, from very light to dark gray-blue. To make such a wonderful path, you need to prepare round and oval smooth stones different sizes, clean sand, rubber or wooden hammer, cement, sponge, level, and, of course, water.

Preparatory work is carried out in almost the same way as when installing a brick path, but with minor deviations.

The whole process begins with sorting the stones, as they may have small defects. If the flaw is not too large, then it can be hidden by turning the stone with its even side up.

Having sorted through the stones, you need to choose a pattern that is suitable in size to the width of the path, the base for which has already been prepared. If you don’t find a suitable one, then you can easily compose it yourself, using squares as a basis for a design, into which curlicue shells will fit perfectly.

Option #1

• The drawing from the sketch is transferred to the prepared base. The curl must be placed in the marked square, and it is desirable that this square has all four sides sides, which will not allow the mosaic to fall apart.

Since the base is made of crushed stone, the marking can be done with lime.

• The next step is to mix sand with cement, approximately 3:1 or 4:1, add water and make a thick mixture, from which a side with a width is laid out according to the markings. equal to the length pebbles. The strips are arranged in small sections to make it easier to level the stones in them.
• An oval stone with rounded edges is folded into a small path - it is placed on the side and slightly pressed into the solution.

If the solution has already hardened a little, then to level all the stones, you can knock on them with a rubber hammer.

• When one of the strips is laid out, its evenness must be checked using building level– there should be no strong protrusions above the general level of the track.

• So, looking at your sketch, row by row, they lay out a similar stone mosaic. It can use both small oval smooth stones, installed on an edge, and round ones, if they fit well into the pattern being created.

• In addition, you can use different shades of stones, for example, laying out one strip with light stones, another with dark ones, or making a smooth color transition.
• Depending on the intended design, the stones can be installed in height. The main thing is to maintain constant control using a level.

• After one of the parts of the mosaic is laid out, it is watered with water using a sprayer. This will not only strengthen the hardening solution, but will also wash away excess of it from the surface of the mosaic.

• So, dividing the drawing into separate parts, gradually, in accordance with the sequence thought out in advance, they lay out the entire plane allocated for the mosaic. As a result, it should be densely filled with stones.

Option No. 2

Another option can be called simpler, since the stones are placed immediately in leveled wet sand, without the use of cement.

However, in order created composition has not crumbled ahead of time, it must be laid out in limited space. For this purpose, installed borders with temporary partitions can serve, since the mosaic is laid out in parts, or a kind of formwork made of boards, which is removed only after compacting each of the parts.

• So, on a base with compacted crushed stone, curbs are placed and leveled, as well as temporary partitions that will limit the area of ​​work being carried out.
• Next, wet sand is poured into the resulting form, compacted and leveled with a rule. The height of the sand cushion should be 20 ÷ 30 mm below the sides of the curb or formwork - this is exactly the height at which the stones will remain on the surface, and the laid mosaic will need to be leveled along the curb.

Lines are drawn along the leveled sand surface along which the stone mosaic will be laid.

• It is more convenient to lay out the stones not one at a time, but to immediately place them in a path and, tapping them on top with a rubber hammer, deepen them to the desired level. If necessary, the sand must be additionally moistened.

While carrying out work, the height of the stones must be constantly monitored using.

• Having laid out a certain section of the mosaic, until the sand has dried, you need to go over the entire surface again with a rubber hammer, and then you need to pour more dry sand or a mixture of sand and cement on top. The excess of such backfill must then be immediately swept away with a brush.

• After the laid surface has completely dried, you can brush the surface again.

After a few hours, the sand will compact and sink slightly between the stones. After this, you need to repeat the procedure with bedding and splashing.

• After the mosaic dries again, all the stones are washed with a wet sponge.

• The entire composition is moistened with water every day for a week - this is necessary for the path to “gain hardness”.
• If work is being done When installing a mosaic in an open space, then in order to avoid its erosion by rain, it is best to cover the entire composition with thin foam rubber at night. It will allow water to pass through, but will not allow sand to wash out.
• If the work was carried out in formwork made of boards, after completing the masonry and its temporary fencing, it is necessary to strengthen the path by covering it with stones or bricks in the form of a border.

concrete path

For a concrete path, marking is done in the same way as described above, and then soil is excavated along the marked area.

Then, sand is poured onto the bottom of the pit, which is moistened and compacted. The final thickness of the compacted layer should be 60 ÷ 70 mm.

Crushed stone is poured on top of the compacted sand, which also needs to be compacted.

A reinforcing grid is installed on the crushed stone, which will make the path much stronger.

Then, you can do one of two ways, depending on what kind of track you want to get.

1. If a flat surface is to be obtained, then a thin one is made, which is used to fill the formwork.

— In the case when concrete is poured into the space between already installed curbs, the rule will need to be made independently, and it should have the same basic form as the one described in the section about leveling sand when constructing a brick path.

— The finished path is reinforced with iron. To do this, dry cement is sprinkled onto a still damp surface in a thin layer, which is immediately rubbed in gently using grout. Commercially available strengthening topping mixtures can also be used.

2. If the path is planned to be made using a form that helps imitate stone laying, then the concrete mixture is poured into the formwork in two layers.

— The first layer is poured to half the height of the formwork and also leveled using the rule. In this case, a rough mortar consisting of cement and gravel is used. The surface should be fairly level, and to achieve this, it is recommended to install beacons of the required height and level the concrete along them.

— After the concrete has set, a form is placed on its surface and filled with a thin solution. It is leveled on the surface of the mold. The form filled with concrete is left to harden for 3 ÷ 5 days.

Curly shapes to achieve the effect of a “paved path”

If there is only one form, then the work, of course, will take too long, so when using such technology it is advisable to have at least two similar forms at your disposal. It should be noted that with their help you can design not only paths, but also the floor in the gazebo, the area near the gate or near the garage.

Prices for cement and basic mixtures

Cement and base mixtures

Video: example of using a form to fill a “paved” path

Garden paths made from lids

Very interesting option tracks - it turns out that it can be made from caps from ordinary plastic bottles. Thanks to their bright, varied colors, they can be used to create various ornamental designs that will help decorate the garden landscape.

The only difficulty that will be encountered on the path of the master who decides to make this work will be collecting the required number of these “mosaic elements” of the future path.

Having decided to do this work, you need to start collecting the lids in advance. While the drilling process is going on, you can think about what pattern to choose for the path and draw up a rough sketch of it.

You should not wait until the required number of covers for the entire length of the path is completely assembled. Having collected a certain number of them, you can begin to assemble elements of the future canvas from them. For example, to assemble the fragment shown in the photo, you will need only 19 caps.

A large number of caps are usually found on the beach in the summer. And by the way, you can get triple benefits from the collection process:

- at least slightly clean the beach sand from foreign objects;

- breathe fresh air while walking on the beach;

- get the material for making the path completely free of charge.

• To connect the lids into the desired pattern, you will need a “gypsy” needle, an awl, always with a wooden handle, and a large amount of fishing line. Wooden handle is needed due to the fact that the awl will have to be heated over a fire so that holes can be easily made in the lids to fasten them together.
• Holes for the passage of the needle are pierced on the sides of the covers, as shown in the photo above.
• First, individual elements are assembled according to the prepared sketch , and when several of them are ready, they are connected to each other.
• The work of assembling the elements of such a track is quite long and painstaking, but it does not require T ore-intensive preparation of the base associated with excavation or concrete work.

If you have the material and the necessary diligence and patience, you can “pave” fairly large areas

• When the mat of lids is completely ready, the place for it is prepared as follows:

- marked space for installation, sprayed with weed killer;

- then, a prepared mat of lids is placed on it;

— so that less soil falls on the surface of the path during operation, it is recommended to install a border made of brick or stone along the path;

- to do this, the top soil is removed to a depth of approximately two-thirds of the brick, and then the space of the trench is filled halfway with sand, into which the brick is placed at an angle and tapped. The side gaps between the soil and the brick are also filled with sand, which is moistened in advance.

Prefabricated paths made of plastic slabs

Mobile garden paths can be laid quickly, without arranging a base for them, using special plastic panels.

From them you can assemble a path of any width, since they have fastenings that will allow you to connect them both along and across.

Connecting elements having sufficient big size, impart rigidity to the structure, since every two slabs are fastened in two places and serve as a kind of support legs.

The advantage of such slab panels is not only the speed of installation, but also the fact that their surface is absolutely non-slippery, such paths can withstand quite heavy loads, and they are very durable in use.

For the manufacture of plates, frost-resistant plastic is used, which can withstand not only low temperatures up to - 35÷40, but also high temperatures up to + 45÷50 degrees. However, there is no particular point in leaving such a garden path for the winter - if desired, it can be quickly and easily disassembled, stacked and sent for storage in one of the outbuildings. The tiles will not take up much space, and in the spring the path will not be so difficult to lay out again as soon as possible anywhere in the area.

The tile has a very convenient size for working with it - it is 570 × 570 mm in width and length, and its thickness is 22 mm.

In addition, the convenience of such tiles also lies in the fact that water does not accumulate on them, since there are longitudinal holes on the surface.

By the way, on winter period You can lay out a mat from such tiles in front of the front door - its surface is corrugated, which means it will not allow you to slip and get injured.

This option for arranging garden paths does not require much effort for installation, since the tiles can be laid both on and on the soil surface. If grass begins to grow through the holes in the tiles, the path can easily be moved or disassembled, and after getting rid of the grass, it can be collected and put back in place.

"Garden parquet"

“Garden parquet” is quite expensive type of material that They are used not only for laying on the site, but also for decorating floors in gazebos, verandas, terraces and balconies.

Expensive, but very cool - “garden parquet”

It has characteristics similar to plastic plates. This option is excellent for laying on garden paths - “garden parquet” is also quickly assembled and disassembled, since it has special fastenings for this, which have their own specific features.

Fastening "garden parquet" tiles

Detailed panels may have different arrangements of the elements that make up its design. They are laid on compacted gravel mixture or fine crushed stone.

Laying garden parquet will never take much time

This “parquet” is made from wood that has been treated in a special way and does not react to ordinary external “irritants” - it is not afraid of humidity, direct Sun rays, temperature changes, biological effects. However, in addition to wood, for the manufacture of “garden parquet” (relatively inexpensive models), special plastic is used, which perfectly imitates natural wood. It is clear that the second option of parquet flooring is much more accessible to the average property owner

So, there are a very large number of country paths. After careful review, you can always choose one that is suitable in terms of price, design and complexity of doing all the work yourself. Therefore, if the time comes to plan a site, you need to carefully think through all the nuances and calculate your strengths and capabilities.

Video: Variety of options for garden paths

The design of paths in a dacha can greatly influence the design of the site. Therefore, it is so important to pay attention to creating beautiful paths.

Moreover, you can make an interesting path from various materials, for example, a brick path will look elegant, but mysterious country house design a path made of round timber will add natural wood, a path made of river pebbles will look stylish and will emphasize original design and a path made of plastic corks will make it brighter.

In addition, there are ready-made removable panels that can be laid out each year to your liking.

Country path project

Before you start laying a path, you need to create a plan for the area, in which you identify all the buildings, garden plantings, flower beds and schematically mark the path. The drawing must also include auxiliary objects, such as an irrigation system.

When creating a plan, you need to take into account all the nuances, so you should be as comfortable as possible when getting to any place in the garden. In addition, you need to take into account the fact that you need to walk around your territory in any weather conditions and at any time of the year.

Now the completed project must be applied directly to the site.

It will be easier to determine the width of the path and its direction if you apply markings directly on the site, which is especially important for paths made of paving slabs or bricks.

It is best to make markings with pegs, which you must first drive in and then pull the rope along them. Also, for convenience, the side border of the path can be marked by sprinkling it with lime.

It is important to take into account that removing the top layer of soil to lay the path should be wider than the path, because for reliability and durability it will need curbs made of such durable materials like concrete or stone.

Preparatory work

In order for your garden path to serve you faithfully for many years, you will need thorough preparation.

So, you need to take into account that the path should have a slight slope, and in the area of ​​the slope you need to make a drainage trench. This is necessary in order to rainwater flowed off the path, and excess moisture would not have damaged the coating.

The thickness of the removed soil should be 15 ÷ 200 mm. After this, in order for the edges to remain even, it is necessary to install boards along the entire perimeter of the dug hole from the sides.

Then a “pillow” is made; gravel is poured into the hole along with cement and everything is compacted and moistened. The “pillow” should have a thickness of 50-100 mm.

Types of garden paths

There are a lot of materials that can be used to make an excellent country path.

Brick path. This path is reliable, durable and looks very elegant in appearance.

Wooden path. This path looks beautiful and even mysterious; the round timber laid out in the form of an ornate path resembles a fairy tale path.

Stone path. Those who want to see a stylish and elegant garden path on their property can try a mosaic version made from river pebbles.

Cement path. This path is durable and reliable. To make it attractive, you can use special shaped molds, thereby getting the effect of a paved path.

Garden path made of plastic covers. A rather unusual, but at the same time bright version of the path in the form of a mosaic of multi-colored plastic bottle caps.

The presence of a large number of colors and the availability of material allow you to create a path with a variety of patterns that will make the landscape of your site a real work of art.

Plastic prefabricated path. This type of track can be quickly and easily installed and, if necessary, changed and even removed.

Thanks to the textured surface plastic panels It is convenient to walk along the path, because it does not slip, even if it gets wet. A large assortment plastic products will allow you to choose a garden path of any color and shape.

In addition, using slabs you can make a path of any shape and width. The plastic design allows you to organize a path in any part of the site.

Another advantage of such a path is that, thanks to its structure, moisture will not accumulate on it, water will flow out through special holes.

Garden parquet path. This material is one of the most expensive, but its advantages outweigh the desire to save money.

Thus, “garden parquet” can be easily assembled and disassembled; wood treated with a special solution is not susceptible to moisture, fading, or temperature changes, has strength and durability, and besides, such a path will look luxurious.

Photo of garden paths on the site

With the need to do DIY paths at the dacha We encounter this more often, the more it rains on our site and the more the soil on it gets wet. It is the treated paths that allow us to easily and comfortably reach the most remote corners of the garden without getting our feet wet or dirty. In addition, the coating must be made beautiful in order to fit perfectly into.

Beautiful paths in the country with your own hands

So, what can you build from? beautiful paths in the country with your own hands? There are actually a great many options and you will only be limited by your imagination and availability. building materials. Very often it involves the construction of stationary wide roads, which divide the entire site into small zones and allow several people to move comfortably at the same time. Stationarity is to some extent a necessary measure, because the lawns are equipped with a hidden irrigation system, there are ponds, trees, garden decorations and compositions nearby, so there is certainly no need for anyone to move the road.

Such a path must be laid for centuries - durable, strong, not afraid of frost or moisture. Ideally, this task can be accomplished with a high-quality concrete mixture, which is poured into wooden formwork, using reinforcing mesh to impart rigidity to the structure. The alternative is ready-made concrete plates, which are stacked sequentially one after another. Due to their large weight, they often do not even need a foundation - a “trough”; they can simply be laid down and tamped down a little. But such concrete paths and roads do not look very aesthetically pleasing; appearance, somewhat rough and simple, suitable, say, for houses and plots in modern style or in a minimalist style.

Do-it-yourself paths in the country, ideas on how to make

So, let’s look at the first stage of construction to understand where to start do-it-yourself paths at the dacha. Ideas on how to do it not so much, the principle is the same for everyone, since it involves digging a small foundation (base), which we will cover on top with a road surface of any kind.

It is necessary to lay ballast on top of the fine gravel - a drainage layer that will help efficiently drain excess water. Ballast can also be crushed stone, but of a larger fraction 10-40. And the last layer of our sandwich will be sand, quite coarse, which is poured over the top of the ballast. You can install paving slabs, bricks and some other types of facing materials into it.

Do-it-yourself paths in the country: master class

Now that our base is ready, we can begin laying the road surface, that is, the layer itself on which we will walk with our feet. The simplest and most accessible do-it-yourself paths in the countryside master class dedicated to bulk coating. The amount of small stone or brick chips is determined empirically, but since such material is inexpensive, you can buy it with a reserve. Unused remains can be poured into the base.

Another master class is devoted to laying paving slabs. Paths from it can be created in any shape, around flower beds with lush marigolds, around a pool, pond or swing. The laying technology is as follows: we prepare a “trough”, on top we have a layer of compacted sand. We lay the paving slab parts directly into it in even rows, deepening each of them into the sand using a hammer with a rubber tip (so as not to break the fragile material). From time to time you need to check the row level by placing a level wooden slats for several tiles. If any of them sticks out, then they are leveled by knocking with a hammer directly on the rail. Make sure that the joints are as narrow as possible, then the tiles will lie more monolithically.

Do-it-yourself paths in the countryside video

Use in your work on do-it-yourself paths at the dacha video worth it in cases where we're talking about about truly complex technologies that have their own nuances. For example, this could be concreting using a shaped form. After hardening, the form is removed, and the surface becomes like one lined with smooth stone.

Do-it-yourself paths at the dacha made of stones

Let's touch on the arrangement in a little more detail. do-it-yourself dacha paths made of stones. We are not interested in expensive marble and granite, since it is very difficult to work with them yourself; to cut them you need to use complex and expensive equipment. But from flagstone we can get a coating no worse.