DIY drainpipes. How to make gutters with your own hands: technical nuances and installation specifics

Currently, stores have a huge selection of drainage systems made of plastic and metal; you can buy any set from both very well-known manufacturers and very young companies. They work well and are quite adequate in terms of operational and design indicators. modern requirements consumers. But all factory systems have one significant drawback - high cost. For ten meters of the cheapest gutters you will have to pay 10,000 rubles. Installing drainage systems on a medium-sized cottage will cost no less than 50,000 rubles. Such sums are beyond the means of rural residents, and it is even more a pity to pay them for ordinary drainage systems. There is a way out - to make a roof drain with your own hands from cheaper materials.

The cost of home-made structures is approximately five to ten times lower than factory ones; the specific price depends on the chosen material and the professional skill of the performer. An inexperienced craftsman can only ruin the purchased pipes and additional elements.

To make a device with your own hands, you can use several types of materials.

There are objective reasons for this state of affairs.

1. The first is that sewer pipes are made from the cheapest plastic, most often not primary, but secondary, they are not affected by hard ultraviolet rays, they do not freeze/thaw, and mineral dyes are not added to them to improve the design look.
2. Second - famous manufacturers drainage systems set additional markups for brand promotion. This does not apply to sewer pipes.
3. Third, excellent shapes and appearance significantly complicate the production of drains. It is necessary to have special machines and precise multi-component molds; the set of devices includes many dozens of units. Fourth - high quality is also supported by process control at each stage of production. This causes an increase in defects and, accordingly, increases the selling price of products.

Making a roof drain with your own hands from sewer pipes, as the only acceptable option, in this article we will consider in detail and give step-by-step instructions.

What function should the drain perform?

Regardless of what material the drain is made of, it must protect the foundation and base of the house from rain and melt water.

Waterlogged soil can cause premature deterioration of building masonry materials or subsidence of the foundation. Reducing the load-bearing indicators of the foundation is very big problem. It can only be noticed when cracks appear on the facade walls of the house. Restoring the strength of the foundation is very difficult and expensive; such work can only be performed by professionals. But they are not able to give a 100% guarantee that the measures taken will achieve the goal. All other drainage functions (collection of rainwater into a container, decorative decoration facade of the building) are considered secondary and do not have any impact on the duration and safety of operation of the building.

Prices for gutters

Gutters

Step-by-step instructions for making a drain from sewer pipes

Before starting work, you should clarify some technical issues; this will help avoid annoying mistakes and improve performance characteristics designs.

Components of a homemade drain

We specifically dwell on the purpose and operating conditions of each drainage element; such knowledge will help to avoid mistakes during the independent manufacture of structures.

Step 1. Preparation of materials and tools. Pipes with a diameter of 110 mm are quite suitable for drainage; most factory systems are manufactured with a diameter of 100 mm. These are universal sizes and are suitable for most homes. If your slopes are too large in area, then you can install not just one funnel for water drainage on one straight section of the gutter, but several at a distance of about 6-8 meters from each other. The standard length of sewer pipes is 2.5 meters, made of polypropylene.

Prices for polypropylene pipes for sewerage

Polypropylene pipes for sewerage

Important. You need to understand the difference between pipes for internal and external sewerage.

Some inexperienced craftsmen think that pipes for external sewerage are not afraid of ultraviolet rays and freezing temperatures, because they are installed outside the house and connected to external mains. Everything is correct, these are pipes for external sewerage, only they are installed in trenches, and not on outdoors. And in the trenches there are no UV rays and negative temperatures, but there are additional mechanical loads. In order for the pipes to withstand them, they have thicker walls and, accordingly, a much higher price. Additives from negative impact pipes for external sewerage do not have ultraviolet rays. For gutters, it is better to buy pipes for internal sewerage, they are noticeably cheaper.

Calculate the footage of the pipes, and you need to know the height and length of the building. Two gutters are made from one pipe. Find out immediately the number of turns and at what angles they should be, the number of bends with different angles turns, tees and plugs. A meter of sewerage pipe costs approximately 150–200 rubles, ten meters of drainage will cost approximately 1,500 rubles with all additional elements. This is an order of magnitude cheaper than a factory drainage system.

To work, you need to have an electric cylindrical grinder and several thin metal discs of the appropriate diameter. Choose the smallest grinder. To cut plastic, you don’t need a lot of power, but you can work alone light hand An angle grinder is much more convenient.

Prepare a ruler and tape measure, hardware, metal strip, plumbing and measuring tools. It is advisable to first draw a sketch, think through everything again and calculate.

Practical advice. First try to make a homemade drainage system for non-essential buildings: garage, bathhouse, workshop, etc. During this time, you will gain experience and learn how the system looks on site.

Step 2. Prepare workplace. The fact is that the pipes are long, you need to think about how to cut them from one place. If you work inconveniently, then the cut will never turn out smooth. This is an obvious defect, it will either have to be corrected, which takes a lot of time. Or install such a gutter in an inconspicuous place in the building. It is very convenient to work on ordinary pallets. The pipe is rolled into the gap between the boards and held there quite firmly, which greatly facilitates the process of longitudinal sawing.

Provide a separate area for storing purchased materials and finished elements, a table for tools and hardware, and resolve the issue with the light supply.

Step 3. Install a plastic plug into the end of the pipe. The pipe is subsequently cut into two halves for the gutter, so the plug will not hold. To prevent it from falling out, secure the element with self-tapping screws; the length of the hardware is approximately one centimeter. You need at least four pieces, the distance between them is symmetrical. After cutting the pipe, there should be two self-tapping screws on each gutter. Make sure that the screws are not located very close to the cutting line.

And one more nuance. A rubber ring is installed at the end of the pipe; it seals the plug. The screws should be screwed in in such a way that they do not damage the rubber ring, but press the pipe socket against it. Step back from the end about 3-4 cm, measure the specific distance yourself, it may vary slightly due to differences in pipes from different manufacturers.

Step 4. Mark to cut the pipe into two halves. Marking should be done with a felt-tip pen; a pencil does not draw on plastic.

Step 5. Carefully cut the pipe along the drawn line. It was already mentioned above that you need to hold the grinder with one hand and fix the pipe with the other. As sawing progresses, the pipe moves towards the tool. If it’s difficult to work like this, you’ll have to call an assistant. Let him hold the pipe, and the master works with the grinder with both hands. By the way, this is how the safety instructions recommend working with the tool.

Step 6. Remove hangnails. The disc does not cut the plastic, but melts it, leaving large burrs that can be easily removed. Some use special grinding discs, put them in a grinder and try to use them to remove melted plastic from the edges. We do not recommend doing this; the disc will remove old burrs and leave new ones; high speeds will melt the plastic. Work without tools, burrs are easily cut off with a mounting knife or broken off by hand, but you will have to make significant efforts. Third option - take an abrasive disc and work with it manually. If your cut is wavy, then it is advisable to trim it. Don’t be too upset, the next pipe will be cut much better and easier, and a slightly damaged gutter can be placed on the back side of the building, where no one will see it.

Using the same algorithm, continue cutting all the remaining pipes for the gutters. The two gutters are also connected using self-tapping screws; in places where they overlap, half of the factory rubber gasket must be installed; for this purpose they have technological grooves.

The gutter connection areas are the most dangerous; this is where leaks most often occur. The fact is that the gutter is long, minor forces at one end through the mounting brackets increase tenfold, they work like a lever. The second end may move slightly. In order to completely eliminate the possibility of leaks, we strongly recommend using a sealant. You can buy a cheap one, there is no need to use UV resistant material, the material is not exposed to the open air, half a plastic pipe lies on top and protects it. But you should pay attention to the indicators of adhesion and ductility.

Now you have some experience and you can begin to manufacture more complex elements of the drainage system.

Making a funnel

This is one of the most complex elements of the system. To make it you need to prepare:

• a piece of pipe of the required length;
• end cap;
• turn;
• connecting cross.

Step 1. Assemble all the elements into one structure, check the length of the pipe section again.

Step 2. Fasten the individual parts with self-tapping screws, as we described above.

Important. Remember to always lubricate the surfaces to be joined with sealant, do not rely only on rubber seals.

Step 3. Carefully find the middle of the structure and draw lines on both sides.

Step 4. Use a grinder to cut the assembled structure along the lines.

Remove hangnails. Work carefully, don't rush. Make sure that the individual parts do not move during cutting.

Practical advice. It is better not to cut the plugs at the ends of the gutters into halves, but to leave them whole; in this position they are held more firmly. To do this, the pipe socket is not cut along the axis, but its half is cut along the circumference. Appearance such a gutter differs from the standard one, decide for yourself which connection to make.

The water will be drained into a storm drain buried in the ground. Rainwater is considered very useful for watering all plants; it is always useful in a summer cottage. Moreover, if there is no centralized water supply.

Almost all elements of the drainage system are prepared, you can begin to manufacture metal brackets.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Manufacturingbrackets

You need to prepare a metal strip approximately 2.0 mm thick and up to two centimeters wide.

Step 1. Measure the length of the brackets. It is equal to the length of the section that is fixed to rafter system and half the circumference of the gutter. To avoid mistakes, it is recommended to use soft wire. Make a template out of it, adjust it several times to the optimal position. Everything is fine - align the wire and measure its length. Practitioners advise in any case to give an additional margin of about 2–3 cm.

Step 2. Make marks on a long strip and cut blanks for brackets, drill holes in them.

Drain installation

If the length of the slope is short and there is an assistant, then you can attach the brackets to the gutter while still on the ground, and install the assembled structure on the roof. You will have to work very carefully; during installation, you can damage the assembled gutter. Do not forget that for the water to drain, you should make a slope, about 2-3 cm over ten linear meters. No more is needed, otherwise at the opposite end the gutter will be too far away from the roof and water will not get into it.

Assemble the drain pipes, attach them to the drain, and place the other end into a container to collect rainwater. Vertical pipes are attached to the walls with any clamps; there is no need to tighten them too much. It is advisable to place the clamps in such a place that they rest against the projections of the sockets.

If there are some vertical posts near the house, then you can tape plastic pipes to them with tape.

Practical advice. In order to completely eliminate the possibility of depressurization of vertical pipe joints, screw in self-tapping screws at the junction. They will not allow the pipes to fall out under their own weight.

Manufacturinghook bender

The method of fixing the gutter described above is considered very risky; it is advisable to use the traditional one - first the hooks are fixed, and then the gutters are installed on them. But it can be quite difficult to bend homemade metal strips correctly. To facilitate the process, you can make a simple “hook bender” device.

This will require two segments square pipes 30–40 cm long. The cross-section of the pipes must be selected so that they fit into each other with a gap of approximately 6–8 millimeters. For example, the width of one pipe is 30 mm, and the second is 20–25 mm. Carefully clean the ends of the pipes, remove all burrs, and level the surfaces.

Step 1. Insert the pipes into each other, align the ends, they should be located in the same plane.

Step 2. Insert a bracket into the gap between the pipes; it will control the size of the gap.

Practical advice. The width of the gap should be slightly greater than the thickness of the metal strip, this will make it easier to use the device. Not all metal strips are perfectly straight; some have slight bends. The increased gap will allow them to be bent in the fixture without any problems. In order to achieve such dimensions between the device and the metal strip, it is recommended to insert a piece of sheet iron approximately 1 mm thick over the strip. After tack welding, it is removed.

At the bottom of the mute, grab the pipes with electric welding, and do the same operation at the other end.

Step 3. Remove the bracket and weld the pipes firmly. Clean off any dross.

The device is ready for use. It is very easy to work with him. The workpiece is inserted into the hook bender according to the mark, the device is held with one hand, and the part is bent with the other the right angle and at a given distance.

The hook bender allows you to make not only even bends, but also at various slopes. To do this, the workpiece should not be pressed against the side wall, but slightly rotated in one direction or another. Depending on the angle of rotation, the bend angle changes. Over time, experience develops, all hooks are bent exactly to the specified dimensions, taking into account the characteristics of the roof and drainage system.

Conclusion

It will take no more than one day to make such a roof drain, and the financial savings are very significant. The only drawback is that sewer pipes are afraid of ultraviolet radiation. If possible, it is recommended to take any measures to protect the plastic from sun rays. Otherwise, the system will last no more than 4–5 years.

To save money, you can make a drainage system yourself from scrap materials. In this case, they use not only purchased pipes, gutters, and other parts made of plastic or galvanized, but also ordinary plastic bottles. With a responsible approach to work, a self-made drain in a private home will last up to 10 years.

Creation of a drainage complex

The simplest drainage design is made from plastic pipes

The easiest way to assemble it is from plastic pipes. They are inexpensive, easy to process, and have a wide range of suitable parts. It is also possible to create a galvanized drainage system. If you don’t want to spend money, you can use plastic bottles.

Sometimes drainage systems are also made of wood. Pine, larch or fir are suitable for these purposes. Carpentry skills and significant material costs will be required, since high-quality wood is expensive.

Drawing up a diagram and carrying out calculations

When creating a drainage system from any materials, first of all make up detailed drawing future building. To do this, measure the roof along the perimeter and take into account the height of the building. When drawing up the diagram, the following is taken into account:

• length of roof overhang;
• the total number of funnels and pipes for drainage - they are located in the corners and every 10 meters of the overhang;
• slope of gutters (3–5 mm);
• distance between pipe holders – up to 1.5 m;
• the height of the lower drain above the ground surface is 30 cm.

To install a drainage system, it is necessary to correctly make all the calculations and plan the purchase of building materials, which will avoid unnecessary costs. First of all, the roof area is calculated and the dimensions of the drainage parts are determined:

The total number of gutter sections is determined depending on the sum of the lengths of the eaves overhangs of all roof slopes on which the system is installed. Since a standard gutter is 3 or 4 m long, and a galvanized gutter is 2 m, the resulting amount must be divided by 2, 3, 4. The number of pipes is calculated based on the distance from the ground surface to the roof and the number of drains being installed.

Installation of polymer gutters

To make roof drainage with your own hands, you will need:

• sewer pipes for creating gutters;
• pipe elements for the vertical parts of the drainage structure;
• tees and adapters for joining structural parts;
• sealing material;
• strips of metal sheets for hangers.

The tools for arranging a drainage system with your own hands will require an angle grinder with a disk for cutting metal, electric jigsaw, construction cord, screwdriver, screws.

To make a gutter piece from a pre-purchased sewer pipe, you need to cut it in half using an angle grinder. If this is not possible, use a hacksaw blade for metal. You can also make templates from wood to create gutters of the same size.

It is better not to cut sections of the pipe in the places where the risers are connected - this will make the structure stronger. 150–200 mm on each side of the drain pipe is sufficient. The hole in the gutter section can be cut using a jigsaw.

The connection of gutter sections is carried out with a special silicone sealant or aluminum clips. Semicircles made of sheet plastic are glued as plugs.

Before you begin assembling the drain, you will need to make brackets. They are made from metal strips, bent to the shape of drainage systems.

The entire structure is assembled after installing the holders, which are secured with self-tapping screws to the cornice board or support rafters. To maintain the required slope, use a construction cord. In the places where the drainage system is connected to the risers, tees are installed, not forgetting to seal the joints.

Galvanized steel systems

Galvanized steel drain

It is quite possible to independently create gutters and pipes from galvanized steel with your own hands. You will need a metal sheet half a centimeter thick, metal scissors, a hammer, pliers and a marking marker.

According to a previously made project, the galvanized sheet is marked, after which the marked elements are cut out.

The cut strips are given the required shape using a mallet and pliers. To facilitate this task, as well as more accurate execution, you will need pre-made templates made of wood or pipe.

Spillways made from plastic bottles

Gutter and downspout made of plastic bottles

It is quite possible to make gutters and downpipes from plastic bottles. They will last a year or a little longer. But with a minimum investment, this option will help cope with excess moisture in the off-season.

To create a drain you will need:

• plastic bottles;
• scissors;
• electric drill;
• stationery stapler with staples;
• thin wire.

Only non-relief containers in the shape of a cylinder are suitable, since ribbing will lead to rapid clogging of the system.

To calculate the number of bottles and determine the slope angle of the gutter, it is necessary to measure the length of the drainage system along the entire perimeter of the roof. Next steps:

1. Remove the labels and cut off the bottoms and necks of the bottles.
2. Cut the resulting cylindrical elements along the seam with scissors.
3. Fasten the rectangles with an overlap using a stapler.

On the roof, the gutter structure is secured with wire through holes drilled in slate or metal tiles.

The process of installing a drain is simple. The neck of one bottle is inserted into the cut of the bottom of the other, after which the edge of the gutter section is installed into it. As a riser, cylinders stapled together using a stapler or necks connected with wire are used, creating the effect of watering cans.

As a temporary roof drainage system, this is the most profitable option. The materials at hand are free, and the time and labor costs are minimal.

Operation and Maintenance

Cleaning drains with water pressure

The water disposal complex requires systematic inspection. Regular drain cleaning can help identify problems. Drainage systems must be inspected at least once a year. Traditionally, cleaning is done in the spring, which is the best time to remove leaves and debris.

Cleaning of the drainage begins with the gutter elements. Cleaning is done with a soft brush and then washed with water. The use of sharp objects is not allowed, as they can damage protective coating. After this, you can begin checking the patency of the drain risers. Washing is carried out with a water jet under pressure (for example, from a hose).

Installation errors can cause problems with the system. An incorrect choice of the cross-section of pipe sections and the number of funnels will not allow you to cope with a large water flow. If the pipe is located very close to the wall of the house, this leads to wetness of the surface. Horizontal installation of gutter sections causes water to accumulate and overflow these elements. This is especially dangerous in winter, when frozen moisture can damage system elements.

If you avoid mistakes and approach self-assembly drainage system responsibly, it will last almost as long as a purchased one.

Today, industrial gutters coated with a polymer layer are available for sale. Such structures can last quite a long time, but they are not cheap. Therefore, many owners country houses They prefer to make drainage systems themselves, using, for example, tin or roofing iron.

How to create a project

The main design elements of any drain are:

• gutters;
• funnels;
• drainpipes.

When rain or melt water flows from the roof, it first enters the gutter. Then it enters funnels and goes through drainpipes into the storm drain of the house. Gutters are attached to the roof structures using brackets. For fixation drainpipes Clamps are used on the wall of the house.

When designing a drainage system country house it is important to decide on:

• gutter dimensions;
• cross-section of drainpipes;
• number of fasteners;
• step of installation of drainpipes.

It is believed that for buildings with a roof area of ​​up to 70 m², the diameter of the drainpipe should be 50-70 mm, and the gutter 70-115 mm. For a building with a roof area of ​​up to 100 m², these indicators should be 75-100 mm and 115-130 mm, and for an area over 100 m² - 90-160 and 140-200 mm, respectively.

Drainpipes in country buildings are usually installed at intervals of 8 m. That is, no more than 1-2 similar elements are usually installed on each wall of the house.

Brackets can be purchased or made independently at the rate of approximately 1 piece. per meter of gutter length. To install a drainage system with your own hands, you will need two clamps for each section of pipe.

When assembling the drainage system one-story houses In a small area, usually no more than two drainpipes are installed. Moreover, these elements are assembled in this case from a maximum of two segments. That is, to install a drain in such a building, you will need to make no more than 8 clamps.

What materials and tools will be required

To assemble a drain with your own hands, you should use galvanized sheet metal. Simple metal exposed to water will subsequently rust very quickly. It is believed that tin approximately 0.55 mm thick is best suited for the manufacture of drainage systems for country houses.

Brackets designed for attaching gutters to the roof can be purchased ready-made, or you can also make your own from strips of steel. In this case, the material should be thick enough. After all, during operation the gutter will be subject to quite serious loads. Make your own brackets from steel 2 mm thick.

Roof gutters can be made from sewer pipes or also from 0.55 mm thick sheet metal. In the latter case, you will need, among other things, a mallet. You will also need to prepare one old metal pipe that is strong enough.

How to make a gutter

The roofs of even a not very large country building usually have a significant area. Making the required number of semicircular gutters without special equipment for the drainage of a private house will most likely be problematic. Therefore, self-made elements of this type usually have a triangular or U-shaped cross-section.

Gutters for country house drainage systems are manufactured using the following method:

• strips approximately 300-350 mm wide are cut from a sheet of tin;
• the strips are bent into a triangular or U-shaped groove.

For a one- or two-story suburban building, gutters of this size will most likely be sufficient. In order to ensure that the bends in the manufacture of this element of the drainage system are even, it is worth using the following technology:

• A marking line is drawn exactly in the center of the strip cut from a piece of tin;
• one half of the strip is placed under a thick board;
• the second half is folded onto the outside of the board.

When making a gutter, you should bend the tin not with your hands, but with a second board. In this case, the material will not flow in “waves”. It is better to bend the tin not with a thick, but with a thin board by about 20 mm.

In order to subsequently avoid injury when cleaning the drain, the edge of the gutter, which will subsequently be located on the outside, should be additionally bent inward twice. In order for the edge to be smooth, in this case you should use not a board as a template, but, for example, a steel corner.

How to make brackets

Fasteners for the gutter are usually made as follows:

• pieces approximately 400 mm long are cut from a steel strip 2 mm thick and 20 mm wide;
• the strips are bent in half at an angle of 90°;
• one of the sides is bent again 90° inward;
• two holes are drilled in the end bent in this way;
• the remaining long end is given a configuration corresponding to the cross-section of the gutter;
• drill holes for fasteners for the gutter.

The end of each strip, bent at an angle of 90°, will subsequently be attached to the roof structures. A gutter is installed on the strip itself during the installation of the system.

How to make drainpipes

Roof drainage systems for one-story houses are often made without drainpipes. Melted and rainwater when using such structures, it simply drains from the gutter extending beyond the plane of the wall down into storm well or into a receiving barrel.

Of course, the easiest way is to equip a roof drainage system of this type for a private home. But if desired, of course, you can supplement this design with drainpipes. This element of the roof drainage system of a country house is usually made using a mallet using the following technology:

• a strip 300-350 mm wide is cut from a sheet of tin;
• the strip is installed on a metal corner;
• on both sides of the strip, on each side, the edges are bent at an angle of 90° in one direction;
• the workpiece is turned over and the bend angle increases to 150°;
• two more hook-shaped bends are made in the other direction;
• the workpiece is wrapped around some pipe of the appropriate diameter;
• the bends hook one after another;
• the hooks are tapped with a mallet until the metal is flattened.

Funnels for drainpipes are made using approximately the same technology. But in this case, a piece of tin is usually cut in the form of a trapezoid so that the funnel fits inside the drainpipe to a length of about 5-10 cm.

How to make clamps

These elements can also be made with your own hands if desired. In this case, it is worth using the same steel that was used to make the brackets. In this case, the strips should be cut in accordance with the diameter of the drainpipe. In order to find out the length of these elements, you just need to add 4-5 cm to the total circumference of the pipe.

After the strips are cut:

• holes are drilled on both sides of each of them at equal distances;
• The “ears” are bent using pliers or a vice.

Each clamp is subsequently made from three of the following elements:

• additional holes are drilled in the center in two strips;
• all strips are bent in a semicircle along a piece of some pipe;
• strips with central holes are connected to each other with bolts in perpendicular planes.

Subsequently, when installing drainpipes, an element assembled from two strips will be attached to the wall. The remaining strip will fix the pipe itself. The strips used to attach the clamp to the wall can, if desired, be made shorter than those that will “squeeze” the pipe.

How to assemble the system

Self-made metal gutters are installed on the roof as follows:

• brackets assembled from steel strips are attached to the frontal plate with two bolts;
• the gutter is installed in the brackets so that the edge of the roofing material enters it;
• the gutter is secured to the brackets with bolts;
• Drainpipes with funnels are fixed to the wall of the house using clamps.

The brackets should be attached to the frontal roof board in such a way that the gutter subsequently has a slope towards the funnel of the drainpipe of approximately 1-2 mm per 1 m. This element, of course, cannot be installed strictly horizontally. Otherwise, water will subsequently begin to stagnate in the gutter.

The brackets are also fastened taking into account that they also fit on the overlaps between the individual elements of the gutter. The overlaps themselves must have a length of at least 15-20 cm.

Each subsequent element of the gutter should be installed on top of the previous one along the direction of its inclination. Otherwise, water will flow into the joints, which will negatively affect the operation of the drainage system.

Atmospheric water is one of the main causes of early wear and destruction of building structures. If you do not protect the house from its harmful effects, the famous source of life will stubbornly “undermine” the foundation and blind area.

A drainage system, the construction of which can be easily completed by a home craftsman, can eliminate the negative impact. Just first you need to figure out how to install a drain with your own hands so that it serves flawlessly.

Among the functions entrusted to roofing systems are drainage activities. The runoff of precipitation and melt water is facilitated by the slope, which is characteristic not only of slopes, but also. However, the inclined configuration is not able to perform the work of protecting facades and blind areas with foundations. Guttering is required to protect structures below the roof.

Classification by degree of organization

In order for the result of the invested efforts to become a reason for well-founded pride, you need to understand the design subtleties and technological nuances of the drainage system.

According to the degree of organization, drainage systems are divided into two types:

• Unorganized. According to the unorganized scheme, the flow of precipitation and the results of snow melting occurs freely. Along all areas of slopes, water simply flows onto the blind area, ground or paved path, persistently causing damage to the property that is initially imperceptible.
• Organized. According to the organized scheme, all types of atmospheric water rushing down the slopes are captured by water receiving gutters or funnels. They are then transported through pipelines to points designated for the collection and disposal of stormwater.

Note that the SNiP regulation 06/31/2009 allows the use of an unorganized option in private construction. The regulations allow not to use a drainage system when arranging single- and two-story cottages. True, eaves overhangs narrower than a full 60 cm are not allowed to be built, and entrance lobbies and balconies must be equipped with canopies without any dispute.

An organized option is required for buildings with a height of three meters or more, but zealous owners do not refuse it when equipping one-story houses and domestic buildings. It’s a worthwhile task if you put your own hands into it and it’s not too costly, and the benefits from it are quite real and economically tangible.

Organized drainage systems are, in turn, divided into internal and external options. characteristic of flat roofs. External ones are universal, they are successfully involved in the arrangement of almost all types roofing structures. We will carefully study their design and installation technology.

Design specifics of gutters

All external water drainage systems from roofs of any type and steepness include two main components, these are:

• Water intake devices. These include gutters, trays and funnels designed to directly collect water flowing from slopes.
• Drainpipes. Vertical sections of drainage designed to drain collected water with its subsequent transfer to a storm sewer or with the discharge of wastewater to the ground outside the blind area.

In the external drainage family there is also a division into systems with wall-mounted, mounted and remote gutters, but the only difference is in the layout of the water intake device. The one we study is most in demand wall option as the simplest and most practical.

Hook-shaped brackets are used to attach drainage systems to the rafters, sheathing or front board of the roof being constructed. Clamps are used to secure horizontal sections of the drain. Together, a set of basic and fastening parts makes it possible to quickly and easily, like a designer, assemble and install a drain.

The choice of fasteners for fixing gutters depends on the type construction work(repair or new construction):

• Long metal brackets are used when installing a drainage system before laying the covering. They are attached to the laths or rafter legs.
• Short metal brackets are used in the process of carrying out repair work. They are fixed on the front board.
• Plastic hooks are used when carrying out repairs or during new construction, if a plastic drainage system is being laid. The plastic parts are attached to the front board.

The brackets are fixed with anti-corrosion fasteners with wide caps with a diameter of no more than 8 mm. Fastening is carried out using galvanized screws, self-tapping screws with press washers, ordinary roofing screws. The diameter of the working part of the fastener is at least 4.2 mm.

The installation step of the hooks determines the material from which the drain is made. For metal systems it varies from 60 cm to 90 cm, for copper circuits that are sensitive to deformation from 30 to 60 cm. Under plastic gutters, hook holders are installed every 50 - 60 cm.

The drainage system kit can be purchased fully assembled and ready for installation. Its modular elements are produced so that from individual components you can easily build a drain for a roof of any size and configuration with your own hands. Using industrial prototypes as a template, you can make elements from available and improvised materials, for example, from plastic bottles, roofing sheet or polymer sewer pipes.

Drainpipes and water intake devices come with round, rectangular and combined cross-sections. Rectangular and combined types are distinguished by greater " throughput" This characteristic is not very interesting for private owners, because for the arrangement of cottages, the option with an oval gutter is most often sufficient.

The size of the drainage system depends on the area of ​​the roof being treated:

• If the roof area does not exceed 70 m², then gutter should be Ø 100 mm, and Ø drainpipes 75 mm.
• If the roof area is in the range from 70 m² to 120 m², then a gutter is needed Ø 125 mm, drainpipes Ø 90 mm.

However, when choosing the shape and cross-section of the system, it is not necessary to focus only on technical specifications, because Gutters play a significant role in exterior design.

Materials used in production

The specific operation of external drains limits the choice of materials suitable for the manufacture of systems. It is clear that they will have to endure all the hardships of direct contact with atmospheric phenomena. This means that the elements of drains must be frost-resistant, “indifferent” to heavy rains, snow deposits and the scorching sun.

The following materials are used in the manufacture of drainpipes, water inlets and gutters:

• Roofing steel. The priority is galvanized options, sheet thickness 0.63 mm or 0.7 mm.
• Corrosion Resistant Roofing Steel. Similar to the previous position, but with a protective and decorative polymer shell. Used in production sheet metal rolled products with a thickness of 0.6 mm to 0.7 mm.
• PVC. Light plastic gutters with a wall thickness of 2.2 mm to 3.3 mm are produced from polyvinyl chloride.
• Aluminum. The systems are made of lightweight durable metal 0.8 mm thick. The decorative and protective functions of aluminum gutters are performed by a polymer shell.
• Copper. An elite material that pleases with a service life of 150 - 200 years, but cools the dust at a respectable price. Wall thickness 0.6 mm.
• Zinc-titanium. A new word in the production of gutters with excellent performance characteristics. The price tag is also unmerciful, but the promised 100 years of trouble-free service make us take a closer look at the specified trading position with interest. The thickness of the material used in the manufacture is 0.7 - 0.8 mm.

The choice of a drainage system based on the type of material is focused not only on the personal preferences and financial capabilities of the future owner. To a greater extent, it depends on the type of roofing and architectural features of a private house.

Expensive copper and zinc-titanium options are appropriate on roofs with ceramic tiles, sheet copper roofing, slate tiles. Budget PVC is in perfect harmony with, steel gutters fit perfectly with metal tiles and corrugated sheets.

For purely economic reasons, gutters made of galvanized steel and PVC are most in demand. The first will last 10 years, the second 25 - 35 years, depending on the manufacturer’s assurances. Difficult to select best option in terms of resistance to atmospheric attacks, because their performance characteristics are very similar. However, metal is preferred in the northern regions, and in temperate climatic zone plastic.

There are no particular differences in the design and installation sequence between steel and polymer gutters. Almost identical gutters, pipes, and funnels are supplemented with specially produced bends, couplings, tees, and plugs.

You only need to take into account the fact of linear expansion that occurs when the systems heat up. Polymer ones can elongate 5 times more than metal ones, the linear movements of which can be completely neglected.

DIY options

The elementary design of a gutter is unlikely to puzzle the home craftsman. Everything is extremely simple: after meticulously executed markings, rolled sheet metal must be cut into strips and bent according to the preferred cross-section configuration. Cutting and bending can be done by hand, but it is wiser to do it on a bending machine.

You'll have to tinker with the pipes. They can consist of several links depending on the height of the pipeline section and the size of the sheet. The algorithm for making your own drainpipes looks like this:

• Open it up. It is carried out with special care and taking into account allowances for roller joints.
• Formation of longitudinal edges. Bends are made along the allowance lines for roller seams.
• Rolling out blanks. It is produced on roller machines or manually using a mandrel: a straight long pipe or bar.
• Roller seam connection. The rolled out blanks are connected according to the markings and pressed onto the previously used mandrel.
• Narrowing of one side of the link. They are narrowed by 5 - 6 mm so that the upper link fits freely into the lower element.
• Formation of stiffening rollers. They are formed along the upper and lower edges of the links by rolling wire. Produced manually or using a zigging machine.
• Assembling the drain riser.

Rolling out metal blanks will require the most effort if done manually. Each of the cut blanks is placed under a mandrel and, grasping the edges, is carefully bent in one place.

Having ensured that a sufficiently curved plane has been formed, the workpiece is moved 20º - 30º relative to the mandrel used. Then they bend it again until it takes the required configuration.

Making a drain from polymer sewer pipes is much simpler. They are produced with a fairly wide range of shaped parts suitable for the construction of full-fledged systems. In fact, the home craftsman will only need to make a gutter by dissolving a solid pipe into two symmetrical parts.

Personal assembly and installation

During new construction, the installation of drainage systems is carried out on a fully prepared continuous rough flooring, rafters or firmly fixed sheathing. All work on laying the foundation for laying the roof must be completed by the time the drain is constructed.

When carrying out repair restoration roofing system it is necessary to eliminate defects in advance or completely replace the frontal board.

Design and calculation rules

Before starting work, the drainage route must be thoroughly thought through and a laying diagram must be drawn. Design preparation will help you correctly calculate the consumption of pipes, gutters, the number of funnels and shaped parts. It’s better to try it on the drawing in advance different options and decide how you can make an impeccable drain with your own hands, so that your own efforts and funds are properly invested.

The configuration of the drainage system in plan depends on the roof structure:

• Gable roofs are equipped with two gutters along each eaves. If the length of the slope is no more than 12 m, one funnel is mounted on the gutter in a corner convenient for installing the drain riser. If more than 12 m, drainage funnels and one compression funnel are installed in both corners in the middle of the slope.
• Single-pitch ones are equipped with one gutter. The number of water intake and compression funnels is calculated according to the standard rules for pitched planes, as in the previous paragraph.
• Four-slope buildings are equipped with gutters around the perimeter. All corners are equipped with water inlet funnels. Long slopes are equipped with compression funnels, which are recommended to be positioned symmetrically relative to each other.

Compression funnels are needed to provide a reserve for linear expansion when the drain heats up. At the same time, they will play the role of a stiffener and prevent the long gutter from sagging.

The calculation of the number of rotating elements and drainpipes is purely individual. It all depends on the area of ​​the roof being installed, the height of the building and the length of the slopes. Eat general rules assembly and installation of gutters, which should be taken into account regardless of the type of structure, system material, roof configuration and dimensions:

• Gutter installation is carried out according to the “top-down” scheme. First, the water intake part is assembled and installed: gutters with funnels, then drain risers.
• Gutters must be installed with a slope in the direction of the water intake funnel. The slope is formed by lowering the system by 2-3 mm per linear meter.
• The roof overhang must cover the gutter by 1/3 of its width, so that during heavy rainfall, drops do not overflow through the water intake device.
• The outer edge of the gutter should be 2 cm below the line that conventionally continues the slope.
• There should be 30 - 70 cm between the outer side of the front board and the edge of the cornice.

If it is not technically possible to install a gutter according to the specified distances, the roof must be equipped with snow protection.

When designing, it should be taken into account that fastening the clamps of the drain riser to a wall covered with siding can only be done on the sheathing.

Installation of the polymer version

Do not forget that polymer elements have the property of expanding when heated. Therefore, we retreat 5–10 cm from the edge of the front board on both sides, if the system is linear, and use compression parts on long slopes and corners.

Let's consider simplest example installation of a drainage system on one slope with fastening of brackets to the frontal board. A gutter will be laid along the eaves overhang, ending in a corner convenient for collecting water with a water intake funnel with a riser attached to it.

The actions of an independent installer will take place according to the following scheme:

• Marking the frontal board. Mark the attachment point of the outer bracket under the gutter. Do not forget that it should be 3×N mm above the opposite point where the funnel will be located (N is the distance between the fastening points in m). We mark the point of the central axis of the funnel according to the calculations.
• Install extreme bracket and a funnel according to the markings. It is better to buy a funnel with a plug located on the required side of the water collector.
• We stretch the twine between the established extreme points of the system. It will indicate the installation line for the intermediate brackets. The bracket closest to the funnel must be removed from it at the distance specified by the manufacturer (5 - 10 cm). According to the markings, we install intermediate brackets.
• We install the gutter. Its elements are inserted into the far edge of the hooks and snap into place. On factory-made parts there are assembly direction marks, limiting edges and temperature marks, indicating in which position the parts should be connected at specific degrees. We work according to the manufacturer's instructions.
• We equip the edge of the gutter with a plug. If you bought a funnel without a plug, then that too.

The assembly of the drainage riser is usually carried out after laying the roofing. The process can be roughly divided into three stages: construction of the transition to the riser, installation of the riser itself and connection of the outlet.

The final stages of assembling the drainage system are carried out as follows:

• We put the adapter elbow on the funnel pipe. It should go all the way. To go into the drainage pipeline you will need two elbows with equal angle. Transition elbows are released at 67º or 45º.
• We apply the second elbow to the wall at an equal angle. We measure the distance between them and cut the pipe to the resulting size. We cut with a hacksaw for metal, clean the cut from burrs.
• We assemble the transition and fasten the lower elbow with a clamp.
• On the facade, strictly under the funnel, we mark and fix the clamps for the drain riser. The standard distance between clamps is 1.5 m, maximum 1.7. But it should be so that there is at least one clamp for each section of pipe.
• We mark a point for attaching the drain, the lower edge of which should be 25 - 40 cm above the ground surface.
• We fix the clamps and assemble the drainage pipeline. The clamps should not be tightened all the way in order to leave the drainage system the opportunity to move slightly during linear expansion.

If couplings were used in the installation, the places where they are attached must be marked in order to secure additional clamps at the marked points. Do not forget that the drainage riser must be perfectly vertical, so markings along the facade are carried out using a plumb line.

Upon completion of the assembly and installation work, means of protecting it from clogging are installed. It is advisable to equip the gutter with a grid to prevent clogging from the penetration of debris and leaves. If the drainage system is too light or there is no suitable grate on sale, a mesh that looks like an inverted basket is placed over the funnel.

Video to help self-installers

Instructions for installing a plastic drainage system:

Specifics of assembly and installation of metal drainage:

Detailed demonstration of making a drain from sewer pipes:

You can handle the installation, assembly, and even manufacturing of the drainage system yourself. The main thing is to adhere to technological rules and comply with the manufacturer’s instructions.

IN construction stores You can find a lot of options for ready-made drainage systems, but their cost is high. Having learned how to make a drain with your own hands, you can make such a structure from steel sheets with different types coverings. It will not cost much, but will serve as reliably as one made in production.

The selected material must be strong, durable and resistant to environmental influences - precipitation, temperature changes and ultraviolet rays.

To one degree or another, these requirements are met by:

1. Galvanized sheet steel is a budget option, actively used to create gutters for drainage systems. Its disadvantage is not too high strength, the structure can be damaged by a crowbar when clearing ice.
2. Metal with polymer coating. They are excellent for buildings whose roofs are covered with metal tiles, since it is easy to choose a material that matches the color. Steel gutters are resistant to low temperatures and corrosion protective film made of polymer is a good choice. The only negative is the noticeable noise that occurs when water passes through the gutters.
3. Painted sheet steel. Such structures will require periodic renewal of the coating. Not too much good choice for houses, covered soft roof– abrasive particles falling into the gutters along with rainwater will gradually destroy the metal.
4. Plastic. Durable and corrosion-resistant material, products from which are quite easy to assemble. The design is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and is not destroyed by abrasive particles or acid precipitation. Doesn't make noise.
5. Copper and zinc-titanium alloy. They are distinguished by durability, strength and reliability, but are very expensive.

Main elements of the drainage system

A drainage system of any type consists of standard elements, each of which is responsible for a specific task:

1. Gutters. Water flowing from the roof enters gutters located around the perimeter of the building.
2. Drainpipes. From the gutters, wastewater is carried down through pipes.
3. Funnels. Connect gutters and pipes together.
4. Plugs. Elements that control the rate of precipitation runoff serve as limiters.
5. Adapters and couplings. Parts that connect straight sections of a structure together.
6. Tees, elbows, elbows. Used to distribute water, bring drainpipes closer to wall surfaces, and for corners.
7. Brackets and holders. They are used to secure gutters.
8. Clamps and pins - fasteners for pipes.

When designing gutters for the roof of a private house with your own hands, take into account:

1. Diameter of gutters and pipes. In each case, they are selected individually, taking into account the area of ​​the roof, the abundance of precipitation in the region, and the angle of inclination of the slopes. Average parameters for small buildings ( country houses, garages) – d gutters 7-11.5 cm, d pipes – 5-7 cm; for a cottage or house of medium size - d gutters 11.5-13 cm, d pipes 7.5-11 cm.
2. Location of drainage and water intake elements. The scheme depends on the type of roof and the length of the overhang. Pipes are usually installed in the corners of the building.
3. Quantity of materials. For accurate calculation you will need to calculate the total footage of the gutters (the perimeter of the building and a small margin of about 5%). You need to determine the number of funnels and pipes yourself, focusing on the length of the walls - they are installed at a distance of 10 m from each other. The length of the pipe depends on the height of the building (from ground level to overhang). The distribution, corner and connecting parts of the structure are determined individually, taking into account the configuration of your home.

Manufacturing of gutters from steel sheets

Gutters made of galvanized steel are the most popular and budget option. For the manufacture of a drainage system, you can use sheet metal with a polymer coating, which is more resistant to external influences; the procedure will remain the same.

Materials and tools

To create a drain with your own hands you will need:

• sheet material 0.5 mm thick;
• hammer;
• pliers;
• metal scissors;
• marker for marking.

When performing work, you need to take into account that the width of the workpiece must be 1.5 cm greater than the diameter of the pipe - this gap is needed to connect the elements.

Pipe

Instructions for making a pipe:

1. A pattern is made on a metal sheet based on the previously calculated parameters. From one edge, running along the length of the sheet, you need to draw a straight line at a distance of 0.5 cm, from the other - with an indentation of 1 cm.
2. Using scissors, cut out the part.
3. The area with an indentation of 1 cm is bent at an angle of 90° using pliers, the second edge is also bent, but at a slight angle.
4. The workpiece is rolled into the shape of a pipe, with both curved edges fitting into one another.
5. Using a hammer, the pipe is lightly pressed down to give it shape and make it easier to connect to the next element.

Gutter

How to make a semicircular gutter yourself? Ideally, this work requires special equipment, since without it the product will have an uneven shape, but if you don’t have it, you can try to do it yourself.

From metal sheet cut out the workpiece, place it on a pipe or a tree trunk of the required diameter and, using a mallet, give the workpiece the required shape.

Funnel

The part consists of two glass pipes of different diameters, the diameter of which must be equal to the diameter of the pipe. The components are made independently using the method described above, however, during manufacturing, the edges should be flared not inward, but outward.

Installation of a self-made drainage system

When all the elements are ready, begin assembling the drainage system.

Installation can be done in various ways, the choice of method depends on the fastenings and the time of year when the work is carried out.

It is advisable to install the drainage system before the roof has been covered. The most reliable and successful method is installation on a rafter or external crossbar. pitched roof. This allows you to protect suspended mounting structures from rain by covering them with a cornice strip.

If the roof is already installed, use a different method.

Work order

First, attach the brackets that will support the gutters. They are placed every 55-60 cm, and the level should decrease towards the drain. The holders should be installed so that the roof overhang extends approximately one-third of the semicircle, the remaining two-thirds will collect rainwater flowing from the roof.

To install brackets on a wooden cornice strip at the desired slope, use the following method:

1. Mount the highest positioned holder.
2. Install the bracket located at the lowest point (the slope is increased by 5 mm every meter). If you do not maintain the recommended tilt angle, water drainage will be difficult and leaks may occur.
3. The two installed brackets are connected with a thin rope, and a line is drawn along the wall along the rope.
4. The remaining supporting elements are installed at the required distance, placing them along the marked line.

After this, the gutter is installed; a plug is placed on the edge located highest. At the junction with the pipe gutter, a hole is cut out for a funnel, and the latter is installed.

After this work, the installation of waste pipes begins. To secure them along the wall, clamps are used.

If the site has storm drain, the pipe is taken to it. In its absence, in case of water drainage into the soil, the pipe is placed at a distance of 30-35 cm above the ground level.

To prevent the system from becoming clogged with fallen leaves, it is advisable to install protective nets on the gutters. They will not interfere with water collection, but will protect gutters and pipes from large debris.

In ready-made systems, such protection is almost always included, and when self-production drainage system is easy to do with your own hands.

To do this you will need metal mesh in rolls. Having cut strips whose width is slightly larger than the diameter of the gutter, it is fixed to the elements of the discharge system using ordinary plastic clamps.

Both ready-made and self-made drainage systems must be regularly inspected and cleaned of contaminants. Even a metal mesh will not protect the structure from dirt, dust, and small debris getting inside. As they accumulate, they can impede the flow of water or form blockages in pipes. This can cause water to flow onto the walls of the house and erode the foundation.

Having learned how to properly make roof gutters with your own hands, you can save a lot if you do all the work on manufacturing and installing the manufactured system yourself. At the same time, it is important to carefully follow the work technology, and when drawing up an installation diagram, take accurate measurements. A design made in accordance with all the rules will reliably cope with the task and will last for many years.