How to make a bookcase with your own hands. How to make a loft-style bookcase with your own hands? DIY built-in bookcase

This classic cabinet has a drawer at the bottom, allowing you to always have the files you need at hand. Even when fully loaded, it slides in and out with ease on reinforced guides. Making box joints requires just one simple sawing setup, which is described in this article.

• The glazed doors open easily by sliding up and into the body.
• The drawer contains hanging holders for folders.
• To make the joints, you will need a dial-type groove disk, counter-profile and double-sided figurine cutters.

Any case starts from the side walls

1. Start by gluing the panel blanks for the panels A. While the glue is drying, cut out blanks for the upper/lower panels from a 19 mm thick board. IN crossbars, mullions WITH, front D and rear E stands and faceplates F (Fig. 1).

Attached to the miter (movable) stop of the sawing machine wooden overlay-extension and stop block, saw off the upper/lower crossbars and mullions to the final length. Rearrange the stopper block and saw the length of the front and rear pillars and faceplates. Set the pads aside.

2. Attach the counter-profile cutter to the collet of the router installed in the table and align the rip fence milling table flush with the cutter bearing (photo A, IN). Mill the counter profile at the ends of the top/bottom rails IN and middlemen WITH, using a support pusher block (photo C).

Adjust the overhang of the counter-profile cutter so that the upper cutting edge of the lower incisors is 8 mm above the table surface (photo A). Then set the table rip fence flush with the cutter bearing (photo B). Using a push block to stabilize the workpiece and prevent chipping on the back edge (photo C), mill the ends of the horizontal frame pieces, placing them face down.

3. Install the profile cutter, adjust its offset (see “Tip from the technician below”) and align the rip fence flush with the cutter bearing. With the pieces face down, rout the inside edges of the top/bottom rails IN, front D and rear E racks and both edges of mullions WITH.

It is not necessary to take measurements so that the horizontal B, C and vertical D, E frame parts are located in the same plane at the joints. It is enough to use a part with a milled counter-profile as a template when adjusting the overhang of the profile cutter. Position the profile cutter so that the tongue-forming cutters are flush with the tongue at the end of the horizontal piece.

By aligning strips of masking tape with each other, you will be able to quickly install the centerpieces C in the desired position during gluing. Wooden pressure blocks will prevent the appearance of dents on the edges of the D, E pillars.

4. Dry (without glue) connect the crossbars B, C and racks D, E. Position the mullions WITH so that three openings are formed equal length. Quick tip! Stick-on markings. A strip of masking tape pasted across each of the mullion-to-post joints will speed up the alignment of the parts during the gluing process. Measure the width and height of the openings and add 14 mm to each of the resulting dimensions. Take out the panels A and saw them down to these sizes.

5. Place a figurine cutter in the collet of the router fixed in the table and mill the profile along the edges of all panels A. Dry connect the panels, crossbars B, C and racks D, E, checking the fit of the parts to each other.

6. Separate the parts, sand the panels with sandpaper up to 220 grit and apply a finishing coat. (We gave them a coat of linseed oil, applied with a cloth pad, and then one coat of semi-matte polyurethane varnish. A second coat of varnish will be applied after the cabinet is completed.) Sand the milled profile on the posts, then glue side walls A-E (photoD), inserting rubber gaskets for panels into the tongues of the frames (Fig. 1).

This simple adjustment will ensure that identical chamfers are milled on the edges of the faceplates F. First, using double sided tape Attach a T-shaped stop to the rip fence of the router table. The width of the vertical stopper is equal to the diameter of the cutter bearing, to which should be added the width of the chamfer, multiplied by 2. So, when using a cutter with a bearing with a diameter of 12 mm and a chamfer width of 10 mm, the stopper must be made 32 mm wide. Center the stop exactly along the axis of the cutter. Then attach a stop block 76 mm long to one edge of the face plate, and a stop block 114 mm long to the other, aligning the ends of the bars and the plate flush. To mill a chamfer, move the pad to the cutter so that the left stop block touches the left edge of the stopper (see Fig. photo), and move the pad along rip fence until the right block touches the stopper. Unfold the part and mill a second chamfer. By attaching the stop bars to another faceplate and repeating these steps, you will get four perfectly matching chamfers.

Connect the side walls

1. Install a groove disk into the saw machine, adjusting its thickness to the thickness of the shelves N, and attach a wooden block to the rip fence of the machine. Partially covering the disk with a wooden stop plate, cut a fold along the rear edge of both rear posts E (photo E And rice. 1).

On each side wall, cut a 6x10 mm fold along the rear edge of the rear pillar E. The rear wall K will be installed into these folds.

Pressing first one edge of the side wall A-E, and then the other, against the parallel stop, cut out the grooves. For stability when processing large parts, attach a long extension pad to the saw miter fence.

2. Adjust the rip fence so that the width of the open part of the disc is equal to the thickness of the top/bottom panels G. Saw folds along the top and bottom edges of the side walls A-E from the inside. Now remove the wooden fence plate, set the machine rip fence at a distance of 375 mm from the blade and cut two grooves in each of the side walls (photoF, rice. 1).

Glue the shelves H/1 into the grooves of the side walls A-F and secure them with clamps using clamping bars and mounting squares.

3. Mill the front edges of the faceplates F incomplete chamfers (Fig. 1,« »).

4. Glue the face pads F from the front to each side wall A-E, aligning their ends and outer edges. Note.Ensure that the 114mm long bevel trim section is facing upward and the finished sidewalls are mirror copies of each other(Fig. 1). Finish sand the assembled sidewalls with 220-grit sandpaper.

5. Cut out the top/bottom panels according to the specified dimensions G and shelves N. Cut out the shelf edges I, glue them to the parts and press them with clamps (Fig. 2). Give the shelves a final sanding. H/ I sandpaper up to 220 grit, and then join them to the side walls A-F as shown in photoG. Install the lid and bottom (see "").

6. Saw out the edge trims J for the top/bottom panels, adjusting their length to the distance between the front covers F. Glue the edge trims in place, aligning them flush with the top of the lid and the underside of the bottom (Fig. 2).

7. Cut out the back wall from plywood 6 mm thick TO in accordance with the distance between the folds of the side walls A-F. The top and bottom edges of the back wall should be flush with the top side of the top panel G and the underside of the bottom panel G housing (Fig. 2). Drill pilot holes and temporarily attach the back wall with screws to check the dimensions, then remove it for easier access to the inside of the case during further work.

Master's advice. Don't go wrong with the angle

By screwing a screw at right angles into the 10mm folds of the top and bottom rails B, you risk damaging the inside of the parts. To prevent this, tilt the screw slightly towards the outside of the part. (Fig. 2a). Drilling inclined guide holes for screws can be simplified if you use a piece of wood with a bevel at an angle of 10° (photo on the right).

Top and bottom belts will add attractiveness

1. Cut out the front parts from a 19 mm thick board L, lateral M and rear N straps of the upper/lower waist frames, as well as the front ABOUT, lateral R and rear Q extension bars. The width of the blanks for these parts is indicated in the “List of Materials”, and the length should be 13 mm more than indicated. On one of the edges of the front and side strips of the upper/lower waist frames, mill a profile in the form of a roller (Fig. 3a). Next, cut out 3 mm wide tongues on one face of these parts, as well as on two opposite edges of the extension bars, which serve to catch excess glue (Fig. 2a And 3).

Having pressed the front strap of the waist frame L to the body with a clamp, press the bevel of the side strap M to its end and mark its final length.

2. File the bevels on both ends of the front strap of the top waist frame L, so that its length is 32 mm greater than the width of the case.

File a bevel on one end of each of the side strips of the top waist frame M. Using clamps, press the front strap of the upper waist frame to the top panel of the body, centering it and setting the front overhang to 16 mm. Press the side straps of the waist frame onto it and mark their final length (photo N). File the side strips to length, then glue the front and side strips of the waist frame to the body and additionally secure them with screws. File the back strip to length N waist frame, adjusting its length to the distance between the side bars (Fig. 3), glue and secure it with screws. Repeat in the same sequence with the details of the lower waist frame. Sand the frames with 220 grit sandpaper.

3. Measure the overhang of the top waist frame L-N relative to the top bars IN and face pads F side walls (Fig. 2a). Transfer this measurement to the top side of the top waist frame and draw lines along these marks, parallel to the outer edges of the pieces. File the bevels at the ends of the front ABOUT and lateral R extension bars in the same way as they did with the waist frames, so that the length of the bars corresponds to the length of the drawn lines (Fig. 2a). Sand the front and side bars of the extension with 220-grit sandpaper and glue them to the top waist frame. Cut out the rear extension bar Q, adjusting its length to the distance between the side bars, finally sand it and also glue it in place.

Glue T corner bosses to the front R and side S base boards to reinforce the miter joints and ensure squareness.

4. Bevel the ends of the front board R base, while sawing it to its final length, then make bevels and saw the side boards to length S grounds (Fig. 3). Mill a fillet with a radius of 13 mm along the top edge of these parts, and then mark the contours of the cutouts on them. Cut out the cuts with a band saw and sand the edges of the cuts smooth.

5. Band saw cut six corner bosses T according to the shape and dimensions indicated on rice. 3b. Glue the front R and lateral S base boards, installing a boss in each corner (photo I). Glue the remaining corner bosses to the back ends of the side boards (Fig. 3), then glue and attach the support bosses inside each joint with screws U (Fig. 3). Drill mounting holes in the two remaining support bosses, countersink them, and glue the bosses to the front face of the base at equal intervals.

6. Turn the case over and attach the base to it, aligning their back sides and centering them along the width. Drill and countersink mounting holes in corner bosses T and through them, as well as through the holes in the support bosses U screw in the screws (Fig. 3).

7. Cut out the lid according to the specified dimensions. V, as well as the front W and lateral X edge trims with a width specified in the “List of Materials” and a length 13 mm longer than specified. File the bevels at the ends of the linings, adjusting their length to the dimensions of the lid (Fig. 2). On the bottom edge of all overlays, mill a rounding with a radius of 13 mm (Fig. 2a). Then give the lid a final sanding and glue it to the extension. O-Q, aligning the back sides and centering the width.

Door frames and drawer panels

1. Measure the openings for the doors and drawer. Cut out the crossbars Y, the length of which should be 97 mm less than the width of the corresponding opening, and the rack Z length 6 mm less than the height of the corresponding opening. Note.If both pairs of racks have different lengths, mark them according to the openings. Drill holes in the door posts with a diameter of 12 mm and a depth of 16 mm (Fig. 4). Glue the panel for the panel of the false drawer panel AA and set it aside temporarily.

2. Using a set of cutters, make counter-profile connections for the crossbars Y and racks Z frames in the same way as in the manufacture of side walls A-F. Cut out the panel of the false drawer panel to the specified dimensions AA, and then mill the profile on its edges (Fig. 5). Finish the panel with 220 grit sandpaper and apply a finishing coat.

3. Glue the doors together and make sure they are square and not distorted. Then glue it into the holes of the posts Z dowels and file them to the specified length (Fig. 4). By inserting rubber gaskets into the tongues of the drawer false panel frame and inserting the panel AA, glue the frame (Fig. 5).

4. Let the glue dry and then, using a router with a rebate cutter, make 10mm wide rebates on the back of the door frames for installing glass and glazing beads. Clean the corners of the folds with a chisel, then finally sand the doors and false drawer panel Y/Z/AA. Prepare four glazing beads BB 965 mm long, sand them with sandpaper up to 220 grit and set aside.

5. Glue the blanks for the door/drawer guide supports SS and saw them to the specified sizes. Set two of them aside - they will be needed later when installing the box. In the four door supports, cut a 14 mm wide tongue and groove and drill two blind holes with a diameter of 12 mm and two mounting holes countersunk to a diameter of 10 mm (Fig. 6). You should get two pairs of mirror symmetrical supports. Sand the supports with sandpaper up to 220 grit, then saw off two dowels with a diameter of 12 mm for each of the supports. (Fig. 6). Glue dowels 51 mm long into the holes in the dowels intended for them. Set the 32mm dowels aside until the doors are installed.

6. Attach the door supports SS screws to the body (photoJ). Insert the doors into the guide supports at the rear of the cabinet (photo K), then insert dowels 32 mm long into the holes of the supports (but do not glue them in). Install door handles (Fig. 2).Quick tip! Clearly visible markings. When marking the holes for the fastening screws of the handles, stick masking tape on the bottom crossbars of the doors, on which the markings will be more visible.

Attach the bottom door supports CC, pressing them against the underside of the shelf H. To correct location For upper door supports, use 6 mm thick spacers.

Insert the door into the supports at the rear of the cabinet, bottom edge first, so that it fits over the dowels in the CC supports.

7. Make door stops DD according to the dimensions indicated on rice. 4a. Temporarily attach a rubber damper to each stop using double-sided tape. Glue the stops to the shelves N so that the front of the door is flush with the front edge of the shelf edge trim I. Reinstall the back wall TO.

Make install drawer

1. Glue panel blanks 12 mm thick for front/rear HER and lateral FF drawer walls. After the glue has dried, file them down to the specified dimensions.

2. Place a 6 mm thick groove blade into the saw and lift it to a height of 6 mm above the saw table. Having installed a parallel stop at a distance of 6 mm from the disk, cut out grooves along the ends of the side walls FF. On the inside side and front/back HER cut out a tongue and groove from the walls of the box to insert the bottom GG (Fig. 5). Attach a wooden plate to the parallel stop of the machine, cut folds along the ends of the front and rear walls HER, forming a ridge that fits into the grooves of the side walls (Fig. 5a, step 2).

3. Cut out the bottom according to the specified dimensions. GG and glue the box together, checking its squareness by measuring the diagonals.

Place the drawer and panel on stands and the slide on a workbench to provide clearance for installing the drawer into the cabinet.

Using the scrap lumber and marks on the CC drawer supports, attach the guides to the supports with screws.

4. Install a drawer EE-GG on stands 6 mm thick and attach the false panel to it with clamps Y/Z/AA, so that it also rests on the supports (photoL). Place on the workbench along each side of the drawer FF telescopic guide with a distance of 3 mm from the rack Z false panel frames. Attach the guides to the side walls with two screws. Take the drawer supports SS and align their front ends with the front side of the false panel. Mark the position of the front end of each rail on the supports. Remove the runners from the sides of the drawer and attach them to the supports (photo M).

5. Remove the slides and install the drawer supports SS into the body (photoN). Then reinstall the rails into place by driving the screws into the holes in the FF supports and side walls. Insert the drawer into the body.

Place 6mm spacers under the drawer supports CC to raise them flush with the top of the bottom edge trim J.

Drill 2.8 mm diameter pilot holes at the handle locations and temporarily attach the false panel to the drawer using 4.5 x 32 mm countersunk screws into these holes.

6. Mark on the false panel of the drawer AA position of handles-buttons (Fig. 2).(The drawer handles should be aligned vertically with the corresponding door handles.) Press the clamps against the edge trim of the bottom panel of the cabinet J spacers 3 mm thick and place the false panel of the drawer on them Y/Z/AA, centering it in the opening. Drill pilot holes for 4.5x32mm screws (photo O). Drive the screws through the false panel into the front wall of the drawer HER. Remove the drawer with false panels from the body, drill four pilot holes in the racks from the inside of the drawer Z false panels (Fig. 5) and attach the false panel to the box with screws. Remove the screws from the holes where the handles are installed, drill out these holes to the diameter of the mounting screws (M5) and install the handles.

Finishing touches

Draw lines limiting the length of the bevels at a distance of 10 mm from the ends of the decorative overlays and sand the bevels by hand.

1. Cut out a blank measuring 19x102x203mm for decorative overlays NN. On one of the edges of the workpiece, saw off two longitudinal intersecting bevels at an angle of 40°, and then saw off a 10 mm thick strip with beveled edges. Make decorative overlays from this strip, filing them to the specified length. Use sanding to create bevels at the ends of the pads. (photo R). Glue decorative trims to faceplates F (Fig. 1).

2. Remove the back wall TO, doors and drawer. Separate from the box EE-GG false panel Y/Z/AA. Remove the metal fittings and rubber shock absorbers of the door stops DD. Apply with a brush to the top/bottom panels of the case G walnut stain to match their color with the rest of the body parts. When the stain is dry, apply a thin coat of linseed oil to all unfinished parts. After thorough drying, apply polyurethane varnish. Once the varnish is dry, sand all parts with 320-grit sandpaper and apply a second coat of varnish.

3. Prepare glass cut to fit the folds in the doors. Get the glazing beads BB and file the bevels at their ends, adjusting the length to the folds in the doors (Fig. 4). Drill pilot holes with a diameter of 1.6 mm for the mounting pins, insert the glass into the folds and secure the glazing beads with the pins. Reinstall the doors and back panel into the frame TO.

4. To install hanging holders folders from an aluminum strip with a cross-section of 3×25 mm, cut two pieces with a length equal to the distance between the side walls of the box FF, drill holes in them with a diameter of 3.2 mm and countersink them (Fig. 5). Attach strips to the front/back walls of the drawer HER so that they protrude 10 mm above the upper edge of the walls.

5. Reattach the false panel to the drawer Y/Z/AA and insert the box into the body.

6. If nothing interferes, you can fill the closet with books and put your work on display for everyone to see.

You rarely see large libraries in apartments these days. Therefore, the choice of bookcases in furniture stores, frankly speaking, is small. And even if you are lucky enough to find suitable model, there is no guarantee that the shelves will last for at least several years. Making your own bookcase is not that difficult, and this design can be very durable. Our article will discuss the types of furniture for books and the features of their manufacture.

What kind of wardrobe do you need?

Before you make a bookcase with your own hands, it is very important to decide on its type. You might like:

• classical;
• angular;
• built-in;
• rack.

Classics of the genre

This is the most ordinary rectangular cabinet. It can be either with or without glazed doors.

Important! Before choosing a model, try to soberly assess your strengths. A model with open shelves is much easier to make than one with glazing.

The classic wardrobe is suitable for both large and small spaces. It can be made from one section or from several. The multi-section design takes up a significant amount of space. But in a large living room, study or even a home library, such furniture looks simply luxurious.

Angular

The main advantage of corner furniture is that it allows you to use all the free corners, thereby freeing up space along the walls and in the center.

Important! It is very convenient and practical option, but if you don’t yet have experience in making furniture, it’s better to give it up. This is the most complex design.

Built-in

Built-in wardrobes vary greatly in both design and manufacturing complexity. Its main feature is that all elements are attached to load-bearing structures the house itself - the floor, ceiling and walls. So the furniture is held securely, and the shelves almost never fall off.

Important! The main disadvantage is that in a room where there is no niche, such a cabinet takes up quite a lot of space. But if there is a niche, better option can't imagine.

Rack

If you are starting to make furniture for the first time, it is better to start with shelving. The simplest version of a do-it-yourself bookcase, or any other, because you can store not only books in it, but also dishes, winter preparations, clothes and much more. It all depends on what room it is in.

Important! You can choose a model that can be assembled in fifteen minutes and lasts for decades.

A few words about tools

To make a bookcase with your own hands, you will need a regular set of carpentry tools:

• jigsaw - electric or manual;
• wood saws;
• drill;
• a set of drills, including a confirmed one;
• confirmation bat;
• bit for screws;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• skin with large and small grains;
• stain.

You need to take care of what you will use to connect the elements of the rack to each other and attach them to the walls:

• confirmations;
• self-tapping screws;
• thrust bearings.

Important! Some elements can be glued together. For this, of course, you will need special composition- wood glue, which can be bought at any hardware store.

The simplest rack

If you're lucky enough to get your hands on a few old-style bookshelves, half the job is done. They are long rectangular boxes that have:

• top part;
• Bottom part;
• 2 sidewalls;
• back wall.

Important! Sometimes such shelves were made glazed, you can leave it that way. But if this option does not suit you, remove the windows and plastic tapes, into the grooves of which they were inserted.

Assembling the rack

A rack of such boxes can be assembled in about ten minutes:

• It has no back wall.
• The structure is supported by four long slats 20x45x2000 mm.
• You will only need three shelves, but you can be content with two if you make several shelves simply from boards.
• No drawings are needed for this design.

Important! The advantage of such a cabinet is not only its ease of manufacture. If all the details are correctly marked, the plinth will not interfere, that is, the structure can be placed close to the wall.

Here step by step order work to assemble such a bookcase with your own hands:

1. Choose a place near the wall, make a marking - the width of the rack is equal to the length of the bookshelf, plus 4 cm (twice the thickness of the slats).
2. Measure the width of the baseboard.
3. Sand the slats first with coarse sandpaper, then with fine sandpaper.
4. Saturate the slats with stain - this will give them beautiful colour, and in addition, it will protect from excess moisture.
5. Mark the side of the shelf - set aside the width of the plinth from the back wall and draw a line parallel to the edge between the back and side walls.
6. Step back 5-7 cm from the front edge and draw a line parallel to the first one.
7. Mark the second side panel in the same way, and then the other shelves.
8. From the upper end of one of the slats, set aside the height of the shelf, then 20-40 cm, again the height of the shelf, another 20-40 cm, and another height of the shelf.
9. Do the same with the rest of the slats.
10. Place one of the shelves on the sides so that the open edges are parallel to each other.
11. Move the shelves apart so that the distances between them correspond to the marks on the slats.
12. Place one of the slats on this structure (preferably the one closest to the wall).
13. Screw the shelf to the rail with two self-tapping screws.
14. Screw the remaining shelves to the same rail in the same way.
15. Place the second rail and screw it in place as well.
16. Turn the structure over and do the same operations on the other side.
17. Screw the bearings to the topmost shelf on both sides: one side should lie on the upper plane of the shelf itself, the other should be adjacent to the wall.
18. Lift the rack and move it to the designated area.
19. Attach it to the wall using any in a convenient way(this depends on the material from which the house is built).

Important! Such racks should not be attached to plasterboard partitions.

Rack of rectangular shelves

This design can be made both on slats and on boards. You need boards or chipboards 16 mm thick:

• 2 long boards for sidewalls measuring 400x2000 mm;
• top board 400x800 mm;
• 5 shelves 400x768 mm;
• 2 vertical pads 5x2000;
• 2 horizontal pads 100x700 mm;
• 3 mm fiberboard sheet for the back wall – 800x2000 mm.

Preparation

Before making a bookcase, prepare the elements, then assembly will not take much time:

• Start by processing the boards - cut them to size.
• Remove any rough edges.
• Sand the surfaces.

Important! Sand especially carefully the cuts where the shelves and parts of the box will connect to each other.

• If necessary, saturate the parts with stain or varnish.
• Mark the sides for the shelves, which should be positioned strictly horizontally.
• Attach the top board to the upper parts using corners.
• Cut out the back wall from fiberboard and attach it to the sides and top board, for example, with nails or self-tapping screws, but you can also glue it.
• According to the markings, attach the second shelf from the top, and then all subsequent ones.
• Place the cabinet in the designated space.
• If necessary, cut recesses for the baseboard.
• Glue the horizontal and vertical overlays.

Classic wardrobe

To make a bookcase with your own hands, drawings are not necessary if the design is simple enough, like shelving. But if you want a classic or built-in wardrobe, and even more so a corner one, it is better to find suitable diagrams or make them yourself, for which there is a program such as AutoCad.

It’s not difficult to figure it out, but all novice masters usually forget one simple thing– take into account the width of the plinth. In addition to the method indicated in the case of a rack made of slats, there are two more ways to deal with baseboards:

• clean the place where the cabinet will be;
• make bevels of vertical ribs.

Deciding on the sizes

A closet is a large item and needs a lot of space. Therefore, it is very important to determine exactly what space it will occupy. You need to know:

• the height of the entire structure;
• width;
• shelf depth;
• distance between shelves.

The dimensions of the cabinet itself depend on the space you can allocate for it and the number of books. As for the depth, it will be as follows:

• for standard books – 20 cm;
• for large format books -30 cm.

It is also necessary to take into account the weight of the books, which determines the thickness of the shelves. They should not sag. Therefore, for a cabinet one meter wide, it is best to take boards 2.5 cm thick. As for species, construction stores have a fairly large selection of boards of varying quality. Classic furniture species are suitable:

• ebony;
• alder;
• coniferous species.

Important! You can also take chipboard - it will be much cheaper, and it can be finished to match any species, even the most exotic.

Preparing the details

So, you found or made drawings. It's time to get to work. Bookshelf making your own from wood is an activity that requires a certain space, so take care of your furniture workshop in advance, even if it’s temporary.

Important! The first question that arises is: is it possible to cut the parts yourself? Of course it is possible, but there is more simple options– order at a workshop or pick up suitable ones at a hardware store. If you decide to do it yourself, try to saw it so that there are no chips. This is especially important if you are working with chipboard.

Progress:

1. Remove any rough edges.
2. Sand the boards for the box
3. If you are not satisfied with the rectangular ends, cover them with veneer.
4. Adjust the boards to size - this is best done using a template that fits under the board.
5. Sand the slats on which the shelves will be placed. They must be level, and when installed in a cabinet, parallel to each other.
6. Mark the sides for the shelves.
7. Glue or screw the slats so that they run strictly horizontally.

Final assembly

It needs to be done on the most flat surface possible:

1. Attach the top to the sides so that the corners are strictly straight.
2. Drill holes for the fasteners - the drill should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the fasteners (it is best to use confirmed ones).
3. Connect the parts with fasteners and tighten.
4. Attach the bottom part in the same way.
5. Install the shelves by attaching them with confirmations to the already installed slats.
6. Install the back wall last - using nails, screws or even a stapler.

There are many bookcase designs. If you wish, you can come up with your own. But it is important to remember that books have a lot of weight, and a home-made cabinet should not only be beautiful, but first of all, durable and safe!

Once you look at the outside of this cabinet and start studying its design, you will be surprised at how easy it is to make. Plywood sides with glued wood pieces look like traditional paneled frames, but you don't have to make complicated joints. The doors use simple half-timber joints that are easy to make on a saw.

The slats glued to the glass imitate slabs, and there is no need to deal with connections and adjustment of profile parts, as in real classic bindings.

First make the sides

1. Cut out the side panels A according to the dimensions specified in the “List of Materials”. Unravel the thickness of the workpiece measuring 51×711 mm and sharpen it to form two workpieces 6 mm thick. Then saw off the lining from these blanks IN specified length (Fig. 1).

Quick tip! To avoid staining the front sides of the panels, use a saw to make shallow catch cuts on the back of the trims to catch excess glue.

Glue the trim to the panels flush with the top and bottom edges.

2. For front and rear pillars C, D choose straight-layer boards with a thickness of 38 mm or glue blanks from several layers. From this material, cut two blanks measuring 32x70x775 mm. Position the longitudinal (parallel) fence of the saw machine at a distance of 12 mm from the blade, raise the blade to a height of 12 mm and make a cut on one face of each workpiece and trim at least 19 mm thick. Move the rip fence slightly away from the blade and make another pass to widen the cut on the trim. Check how the plywood from which the back panels will be made is inserted into it N. If necessary, adjust the position again longitudinal stop and make another cut, achieving a tight fit. Then widen the tongues on both pieces.

3. Having installed the router on the table, attach a shaped cutter for roundings with a radius of 25 mm into the collet and, gradually increasing its reach, in several passes mill out a rounding on each workpiece on the edge opposite to the cut (Fig. 1a). Then install a straight slot cutter with a diameter of 6 mm and secure the scrap stopper to the rip fence at a distance of 45 mm from the cutter (photo A). Move the rip fence 12 mm from the cutter and rout a partial tongue in one of the blanks from which the left front and rear pillars will be made C, D.

Attach the scrap stopper to the longitudinal stop of the milling table on the left at a distance of 45 mm from the cutter. With these settings, make a partial tongue in only one piece.

Reposition the stopper and lower the second workpiece onto the rotating cutter. After taking out an incomplete tongue, this workpiece will be a mirror copy of the first one.

Pressure bars cut from scraps will help to press the front C pillars with clamps. Internal sides pillars C, D and panels A must be aligned in the same plane.

4. To make the same partial tongue on the workpiece for the front and rear posts of the right wall, place the stopper on the opposite side of the cutter (photo B). Pressing the second piece firmly against the rip fence and stopper, lower it onto the rotating cutter and slide it along the stop to remove the incomplete tongue. Using a chisel, carefully trim the corners at the end of the tongue in both pieces.

5. Saw both pieces lengthwise to create two front WITH and two rear D pillars 32 mm wide. Mill 2mm fillets on the outer edges of the posts (Fig. 1b). Sand the parts with 220-grit sandpaper and glue the posts to the side panels A (photo C).

Assemble the body

1. Cut out the front crossbar according to the dimensions indicated. E, rear crossbars F and mullion G. Temporarily set the front crossbar aside. Using the same method as in the front and rear racks, cut out tongues for inserting plywood panels in the center of the inner edges of the rear crossbars and on both edges of the centerpiece H (Fig. 3a).

2. Install a 14 mm thick mortise disc into the saw machine and secure a wooden pad to the longitudinal stop. Turn on the machine and lift the disc so that it protrudes 12mm wide from the cover plate. At both ends of the front crossbar E, rear crossbars F and middle G cut out tenons that fit tightly into the tongues of adjacent parts (Fig. 2a, photoD).

Note. Check the connections carefully. The front rail may require thicker tenons than the rear rails and mullion.

Set the front crossbar aside again.

Make one pass on each side to form a tenon in the center. To check the settings, first make a tenon on a test piece of the same thickness.

Align the centerpiece G with the center of the back rails F. Using a square and a sharp knife, mark the position of the tongue on both rails.

3. Remove the wooden cover from the longitudinal stop and install it at a distance of 27 mm from the groove disk. Cut along the center of one face of the mullion G tongue for inserting partition I. Align the centerpiece with the center of the rear crossbars F and mark the position of the tongue on them (photo E). Extend the lines by transferring the markings to the edges of the crossbars and cut a groove between the lines (Fig. 3).

Cut spacers from the scraps and insert them between the ends of the rear crossbars F so that they do not bend under the pressure of the clamps.

4. Dry (without glue) connect the rear crossbars F and mullion G. Cut out the back panels N and check how they fit into the tongues of this assembly. Sand those crossbars, mullion, and panels with 220-grit sandpaper, then glue them together (photoF).

5. Check how the sides fit together A/B/C/D, front crossbar E and back wall F/G/H. Measure the distance from the bottom of the tongue in the center G to the front crossbar. Cut out the partition I this width. Then measure the distance from the bottom edge of the front crossbar to the bottom of the A-pillars WITH. Cut out the three front trims J same length (Fig. 2) and set two of them aside. Glue one overlay to the front edge of the partition, aligning with the bottom corner. Once the glue is dry, sand the trim flush with the sides of the partition.

6. Drill holes for the shelf supports using a drill jig. Please note that the holes in the partition I positioned differently than in the side panels A (Fig. 1b And 2).

Temporarily installed mounting brackets at the top and bottom of each side frame hold the body parts at right angles while the glue dries.

7. Saw out the top gussets TO, giving them contours according to the template, then begin assembling the body (photoG).

Quick tip! Mounting squares will replace an assistant when assembling the housing. Make enlarged copies of the top gussets to temporarily hold the parts in place so that the assembly is rectangular. Make a chamfer on inner corner each square so that it does not stick to the parts.

Glue one of the sides A/B/C/D to the back wall F/G/H, then add a partition I/J. Glue the front crossbar in place E and the second side. Make sure the baffle is at right angles to the body and glue the top gussets in place (Fig. 2), fixing them with clamps. Then glue the front trims J to both front pillars WITH.

Make the top and bottom panels

1. Cut out the top and bottom panels from 18mm plywood L.

Attach two overlays M, N to the top panel L with clamps and mark their final length. Level the surfaces of the parts when gluing.

2. Cut out blanks for the front and side edge trims M, N with a 25mm allowance along the length and make a 45° bevel at one end of each. Clamp the front and side trim to panel E and mark the final length of the side trim. (photo N). Also place a mark on the inside edge of the front trim to mark the second bevel. File both parts to the final length, glue them to the panel and secure with clamps. Then try on the remaining side piece, mark its length, file and glue in place. Glue the overlays to the other panel in the same way.

3. Using a compass, mark the radii on the front corners of the panels L/M/N (Fig. 2b), cut with a jigsaw, leaving a slight allowance, then sand to a line using a sanding block.

4. Mill a decorative molding profile on the upper edges of the bottom panel L/M/N and on the lower ribs of the upper (Fig. 2c). Then, replacing the cutter, make fillets with a radius of 3 mm on the opposite side of both panels. Lightly sand the transition line between the two profiles to make it invisible. Finish sand both panels.

Make a base

1. Process the material for the front and side base boards to the specified thickness and width. O, R. Saw off the front board to the specified length, and leave an allowance of about 25 mm on the side boards.

2. Insert a rounding cutter with a radius of 25 mm into the collet of the router fixed in the table, make roundings on both ends of the front board O and one end of each of the side boards R. Then mark and file the bevels on all three pieces. (photo I).

Mill the roundings at the ends of the base boards O, P, then mark and make bevels. The side boards will be sawn to final length later.

Place the front base board O on the bottom panel at a distance of 16 mm from the edge, aligned to the center, and glue, securing with clamps.

3. Mark on the front board ABOUT according to template cutout (Fig. 2) and cut out, leaving a small allowance. Sand the edges smooth and make 3mm fillets on the bottom edges of the legs and the bottom edges of the side boards P. Finish the base parts with 220 sandpaper.

4. Put down the bottom panel L/M/N onto the stands with the top side down (photoJ). Glue the front base board ABOUT to the bottom of the panel (Fig. 2c).

5. When the glue is dry, stick to the front board ABOUT side base boards R and place marks on them flush with the ends of the side pads N. Saw the side boards to the final length, glue them in place and secure with clamps.

6. Cut out the back gussets Q and front bosses R specified sizes and shapes. Make 10mm chamfers on the front bosses for installation of clamps. When the glued base is dry, glue the gussets and bosses into place, securing them with clamps (Fig. 2).

Attaching panels to the body

To align the top panel with the rear D-pillars, place the chassis on stands. A temporary spacer keeps partition I from warping.

1. Place the case on a workbench with stands under the rear stands D. Apply glue to the top edges of the side panels A, front and rear crossbars E, F and partitions I. Install the top panel L/M/N so that the molded profile on its edges is a mirror image of the profile on the bottom panel. Secure the top panel with clamps flush with the rear edges of the rear pillars (photo K). Glue the bottom panel and base into place L-R in the same way.

2. Cut out the shelves S and edge trims T specified sizes. Glue the trim to the front edges of the shelves flush with the top side (Fig. 2). Allow the glue to dry, then finally sand the shelves and trims with 220-grit sandpaper.

Doors are easy to make

1. Plane the workpiece for crossbars and posts to the specified thickness and width. U, V. Check the length of these parts by measuring the width and height of the body openings. Cut the crossbars and posts 3mm shorter than these dimensions.

2. Install a 19mm thick mortise disc into the saw and make a test half-wood joint using scraps (read “Tip of the Craftsman” below). Having achieved correct settings, fix the height of the disc.

To make the half-tree connections neat. To make half-wood joints, it is necessary to adjust the projection of the groove disk above the saw table. Take two scraps of the same thickness as the blanks for your parts. Raise the disc to a height slightly less than half the thickness of the trim. Using a miter gauge to guide the trim, cut a fold at one end of each trim. Place both test cuts on a flat surface and check how the folds fit into each other. Adjust the overhang of the disc so that the surfaces of the folds meet without forming gaps.

Partially covering the groove disk with the longitudinal stop plate, leave it open to a width of 10 mm. Saw rebates along the inside edges of all U rails and V posts.

3. Saw along the edges of all crossbars and posts U, V 10mm rebate (photoL).

4. Using the crossbar U Using a template, adjust the position of the longitudinal (parallel) fence (read the “Tip of the Master” at the top). With the pieces facing up, cut half-timber joints at both ends of the U rails. Again, use the rail as a template to reposition the rip fence. Saw half-timber joints at the ends of the V posts, placing them with the fold facing down.

5. Glue the frames from the posts and crossbars U, V, fixing everything with clamps corner connections half a tree. Make sure each frame is square before the glue sets.

Place the door on the bottom panel, placing a coin under it. Using a centering drill, make pilot holes for the screws.

6. After thorough drying, install hinges on the doors (Fig. 4), then attach the doors to the body (photo M).

7. Check the fit of each door to the frame opening. If necessary, sharpen the edges with a plane so that the gaps are the same throughout the entire perimeter. Install latches and knobs in the indicated places (Fig. 2 And 4).

8. Plane the material for making glazing beads to a thickness of 6 mm W, X and planks Y, Z, imitating binding croakers. Saw off the vertical beads W and adjust their length to the rebates of the door posts V. Then mark the final length of the horizontal beads in place. X, installed in the folds of the crossbars U between vertical beads. Mark the length of the vertical and horizontal strips according to the distances between the crossbars and posts. Make test half-timber joints on 6mm scraps, then cut grooves down the middle of each plank and make glue-trap cuts near the edges. Remove all hardware and give doors, glazing beads and trims a final sand with 220-grit sandpaper. Carefully remove sanding dust and apply a finishing coat.

Place the door on a soft cloth and cover the glass with a piece of cardboard before driving the dowel nails into the bead.

9. When the coating is dry, insert glass into the rebate of each door. Drill holes in the beads W, X and secure them with thin hairpin nails (photoN). Do not use glue so that the beads can be removed if the glass breaks. Apply thin beads of silicone adhesive sealant to the backs of the planks. Y, Z and glue it to the glass, securing it with masking tape. Reinstall the hardware and attach the doors to the frame. Now arrange your favorite books on the shelves for which you made this magnificent bookcase.

Books are not only a source of knowledge that teaches life, relationships and communication culture. For people who are passionate about literature, a book is an object of reverent worship, a friend and comrade.

And despite the fact that modern world offers many opportunities to have many books in electronic form, which is much more convenient and accessible than the paper version; still, every home should have a library. It may be small, but filled with classical and modern literature in a traditional, familiar way.

Of course, we know that it is best to store books in cabinets specifically designed for this purpose. But if you are a young family, have recently bought a home and have not yet acquired the necessary furniture, then a bookcase will probably be last on your shopping list. However, there is a great way out - making a cabinet with your own hands.

Types of bookcases in the interior, their advantages

Now designers offer many interior solutions:, unusual bookshelves. There are many options, and often among them there are simply unimaginable, but surprisingly simple to implement. Let's look at the simplest, but at the same time beautiful and interesting option a bookcase that is easy to make yourself.

Traditionally, bookcases come in two types: open and closed.

1. Closed cabinet more convenient for storing paper books, since it does not allow sunlight, moisture and dust can penetrate inside. The disadvantage of books is that they absorb dust and moisture very strongly, which causes them to deteriorate, which subsequently negatively affects human health. On the other hand, a bookcase closed with solid doors has a rather bulky appearance, and small room it doesn't look very nice. This can be avoided if the doors are made of glass. Shaded glass will protect books from the harmful effects of sunlight.
2. Open bookcases They look light and airy, they fit well into a room with a small square footage. Usually they are narrower than closed cabinets and are intended, in addition to storing books, for things and objects that play a role in interior design. If you choose an open bookcase, then you will need to constantly maintain a certain climate in the apartment: humidity , temperature, level of cleanliness. But such a cabinet gives easy access to books, which is very important if you like to read. In addition, open cabinets are very easy to assemble and can be easily modeled as your imagination dictates.

Bookcases are also made in horizontal and vertical versions, and in shape - rectangular, corner or shelving. Before choosing the cabinet that suits you, take into account factors such as the available space in the room, its size and interior style.

The most popular and widespread cabinets designed for storing books and other things are cabinet ones. Such cabinets are available in a wide range of models, and you can easily choose how it will look according to your preferences: without doors or with doors of any kind - hinged, sliding, accordion, glass or solid.

The modular design of the bookcase allows for various combinations of elements. This way you can get a cabinet of any configuration, width and height. This type of bookcase is universal, since different variations can be easily adjusted to any room - both large and small.

The built-in bookcase is a kind of sliding door system. All parts of such a cabinet are attached to the walls, ceiling and floor. There are a lot of design options, but the most common are side partitions without a lid or bottom and the walls of the room as boundaries.

If you have small apartment, and there are a lot of books, then a corner cabinet will be the optimal solution. This design is very roomy, compact and fits well into any type of interior.

We make the cabinet ourselves: necessary materials and tools

There are now a lot of materials used to make furniture, and they will determine the cost of your cabinet. Exclusive models are made from expensive materials, for example, natural wood, solid or veneer. But for more affordable cabinets, materials such as chipboard or MDF with laminate, polymer or melamine coating are used. MDF – more modern material, it is characterized by increased strength and environmental friendliness. Produced in the form of slabs by dry pressing of small chips when exposed to high pressure and temperature.

So, to make a cabinet with your own hands you will need:

• Milling machine;
• Sander;
• Sandpaper;
• Hacksaw, drill and screwdriver;
• Hammer;
• Nails and screws with washers;
• Tape measure and pencil;
• Wood glue;
• Varnish and stain;
• Shelf blanks made from furniture panels;
• Sheets of plywood for the posts, support covers and back wall;
• Natural wood beams for legs.

What to consider when drawing a cabinet drawing

1. First of all, decide on the model of the cabinet and the place in which it will stand. Break the cabinet drawing into several component parts, carefully drawing each detail. The following specialized specialists will be good helpers in this matter: computer programs, like “Basis-furniture maker” or “AutoCad”. When creating drawings, take into account any little things, even the baseboard on the floor of the room, which can easily eat up about five centimeters from the closet, and, moreover, will not allow you to move it to the wall. In this case, bevelling the vertical ribs from the baseboard side will help. You can also remove the baseboard completely.
2. Now determine the exact dimensions of the cabinet. This means not only the width and height, but also the number of shelves, as well as the distance between them. The minimum depth of a shelf for books is 20 cm, for deeper shelves - 30 cm. The thickness of the shelf should be at least 2.5 cm with a length of 1 m, this will help to avoid sagging.
3. Be sure to decide on the color of the furniture in advance. There will be no problems with this, since modern industry offers a large selection of colors and shades.

Preparing cabinet parts

Once all the drawings are prepared, begin preparing the cabinet parts. Sawing parts - quite hard work, so it is better to entrust it to specialists. A machine for sawing chipboard is quite expensive, and it makes no sense to buy it for the sake of making one piece of furniture. You can use a jigsaw, but the work will, firstly, take a very long time, and, secondly, it will not be of sufficient quality. It is best to order chipboard cutting at the place of purchase.

Let's take a standard rectangular open cabinet as a basis for production. For it we will use oak-veneered chipboard and oak itself. You can cover the rectangular ends of the panels with veneer, or prepare oak slats in advance, which will be glued to the ends and rounded off towards the end of the work.

1. Take 30 cm wide and 3 m long, and cut them into pieces 1.6 m long. After this, you need to adjust them to the size of the slats. Here you will need a template for leveling the board, a sawing machine and a guide. The dimensions of the template are as follows: length 1500 mm, thickness – 20 mm, width – 250 mm. When cutting, place the template under the board.
2. Prepare the required number of slats. They will need to be passed through planer, be careful: both sides must be parallel to each other and absolutely even. The slats should also be sanded so that the surface is perfectly smooth.
3. The slats are completely ready, and now they need to be attached to the chipboard using glue. At this stage you will need a clamp. To prevent the workpiece from being pressed when clamping the clamp, place a piece of plywood of suitable thickness under it. When glue comes out from the seams of parts when clamped, carefully wipe it with a rag, or remove it with a chisel after drying. The slats should be joined at an angle of 45 degrees.

Milling the ends and back wall for the cabinet

Milling the ends is not a complicated or time-consuming job, but it still requires accuracy and thoroughness. You should choose the right cutters for the relief and clearly set the desired offset; When feeding the workpiece into the router, you must maintain smooth movements and avoid deviation to the sides.

Before starting work, check the functionality of the cutter on the excess trim. Once the desired size is set, begin processing the slats.

When milling is completed, check the contact of the workpiece with the working part. If there are gaps or crotches between them, remove them using 150-grit sandpaper. Such differences will be noticeable after you open the finished cabinet with varnish, so they need to be eliminated immediately.

The back wall of the cabinet is an inconspicuous side, so it does not require special processing and finishing. But how well you install it determines the overall reliability of the entire structure. The back wall is the connector of the entire cabinet, onto which all other parts are attached.

Most often, sheets or pieces of plywood are used for the back wall of furniture. This material is very easy to process, and its installation will not take much time. Using a saw or jigsaw, cut the pieces the right size, and remove the chamfer from the cut areas with sandpaper.

If you need a more reliable, strong back wall with high wear resistance, make it from chipboard, which is much heavier in weight. But remember that such material is much more difficult to process and requires both special fasteners and certain fastening methods.

Let's start assembling the cabinet

Now you are all ready necessary details, and you can start directly assembling your bookstore. It must be done on the most flat surface possible to prevent distortions.

Attach the side walls to the top, to do this, use a corner to prevent uneven corners at the joints. Drill holes for fastening; use a drill with a diameter smaller than the diameter of the connecting element. Now tighten the parts together using fasteners. A very good option is confirmation, it is easy to use and practical. When you buy it, you also get a hex wrench that will make the clamping easier.

Once you have secured the top of the cabinet, move on to the bottom, remembering to use the angle iron when adjusting the joints. Having connected all these parts, start installing the shelves. Take your time to attach the back wall; without it, installing shelves will be much easier and more convenient. Since bookcase shelves are constantly exposed to loads, they should not be made removable. It’s easier to fix them with the same confirmation, and it’s best to make 3-4 fasteners on each of the side walls. This way, not only the shelves, but the whole thing will receive additional stability and reliability.

So, we have come to the final stage - installing the back wall. In the event that you have chosen chipboard, you will serve as fastening elements construction stapler, screws or nails.

Video about assembling a bookcase with your own hands

Well, now you have an original bookcase in your apartment that you assembled yourself. As you can see, this work is not only simple, but also does not require large financial costs. Now you have an exclusive piece of furniture in your interior, which cost you much less than store-bought counterparts. And if you have any questions, you can ask them in the comments, we will be happy to answer them.

A bookcase is furniture you can’t do without. Books create coziness in a special way and give a home a warm atmosphere. Most people e-books prefer paper analogues, and rightly so. It’s always nice to take a volume of poems by your favorite poet from the shelf, and feel its weight in your hands, listen to the rustle of the pages. Therefore, it is very important to keep books in order. The bookcase will become a reliable assistant in this matter.

Advantages of making a cabinet with your own hands

Nowadays, there is no piece of furniture that cannot be bought, however, when it comes to buying, it turns out that something is wrong: the dimensions of the furniture are not suitable, the model does not fit into the interior, or simply not a single cabinet you like so much so that you want to buy it right away. In this case, you can make a bookcase yourself, saving a considerable amount. In addition, there are a number of advantages to a handmade product:

• you will make the design strictly according to the dimensions that you need;
• the product will fit perfectly into the interior;
• your creation will be unique because it will be made by hand and taking into account all the nuances regarding the design of your home;
• furniture self made lasts longer than the factory one, because the owner does not skimp on the quality of material and fittings.

IMPORTANT! First of all, you need to think about what kind of bookcase model you want, think about its location and size, and only after that start working.

There are 2 types of this furniture: open and closed. The closed bookcase has doors that protect books from dust and sun. The open model does not have such doors.

Types of bookcases

To make a cabinet that is most suitable in size and style, you need to understand the types of such furniture. It is divided by type of assembly and method of use.

Table: types of bookcases

Drawing for making a cabinet

If you decide to make a bookcase yourself, you need to prepare a drawing. First, decide what shape the model will have, where it will be located, and what material it will be made of. Remember that it is best to place a bookcase in a study, living room, or other spacious room.

IMPORTANT! When drawing up a drawing, you need to take into account not only the height and width of the product, but also the number of book blocks. All this should be reflected in the drawing.

Before drawing, check how horizontal the floor is. This is easy to do using a level. If we omit this moment, ready product may be performed with errors, and the shelves will become at an angle to the surface. If you still see that the floor is slightly sloped, decide what is easier to do: level the surface, or design the cabinet in such a way that it will subsequently stand firmly on the floor. All these nuances should be displayed in the drawing.

In order to get the most correct drawing, you need to take into account the depth of the bookshelf. A standard book is 20 cm wide, larger volumes are 30 cm, this must be shown in the drawing. The thickness of the bookshelf should be at least 2 cm. If the apartment has skirting boards, then the distance from it should be slightly more than 3 cm. It is also worth indicating the presence of sockets and the possibility of lighting the cabinet.

Cabinet making process

A drawing or diagram is an integral part of the manufacturing process. Therefore, drawing up a drawing must be approached with all responsibility. Next, you need to select the material and check the availability of all the tools.

When making a cabinet, you will need to mill the ends. This process is not labor-intensive, but it is worth devoting time to:

1. You need to choose the right milling cutters that will help you create the perfect relief.
2. The departure is set as clearly as possible.
3. Milling equipment must be modern and of high quality.

There are milling features that must be taken into account:

1. The router must be securely fastened.
2. The workpiece should not deviate to the sides during milling.
3. You should not rush during the process, as the result may be bad.
4. The slats are processed after the optimal size is set.
5. After all work, the parts should be treated with sandpaper to smooth out all irregularities.

For the back wall of the cabinet you can use chipboard sheet As a rule, this part of the furniture is not visible, and simpler material is used for its manufacture.

IMPORTANT! The back wall must be fixed very firmly and evenly; this determines how reliable the structure will be.

If the cabinet is designed to hold a large number of books, good material laminated chipboard will serve as the back wall. It is easy to attach and can withstand a lot of weight.

Required tools and materials

The materials for making a bookcase are selected in accordance with the chosen project and the interior of the entire home. If you want the product to last long years, use solid natural wood: alder, cherry, oak, maple. The tree is non-toxic, so it costs a lot of money. More budget option There may be furniture made of chipboard and MDF. In this case, the texture and color scheme are quite varied.

The following materials may be needed for work:

• slats;
• curbs;
• metal inserts;
• glass with or without coating.

Wood blocks can be used as legs.

Tools should also be at hand, they need to be collected even before you get ready to make the cabinet. You will need:

• electric drill with various attachments;
• screwdriver;
• milling machine;
• Sander.

In progress finishing works It's worth stocking up on this set:

• Ruler and pencil;
• tape measure and level;
• knives and jigsaw;
• screws, washers, nails and hammer;
• brushes and paints and varnishes.

This list may vary slightly, depending on the selected model.

Preparatory work

All of the above points can be attributed to preparatory work. If you do not have a machine for sawing chipboard, then it is better to order cutting from a specialist, as this is quite difficult process, requiring a lot of attention and experience. When making a standard rectangular product, the ends are covered with veneer, or oak slats are prepared in advance and glued to the cabinet panels.

It is better to use MDF for shelves and sides; prepare the material in advance. Also available should be an MDF edge 2 cm wide, 8 mm thick, do not forget about the slats.

When all preparatory work finished, you can start assembling the product.

Cabinet assembly

The structure must be assembled on a flat surface to avoid possible distortions. The whole process is divided into several stages:

Finally, the back wall should be installed and secured to the overall frame.

IMPORTANT! Experts do not recommend using removable shelves for a bookcase.

You can use a wide variety of fastening elements: nails, self-tapping screws, construction stapler. It all depends on the materials and configuration of the product.