How to speed up the growth and fruiting of trees. How to fertilize an apple tree in spring for its rapid growth

Many gardeners are faced with the problem of lack of fruits, or low fruitfulness in trees that have reached the age of maximum fruiting. The age of fruiting (abundance, timing of fruiting) depends on biological features plant species, variety, rootstock, crown formation method, level of agricultural technology, use of special agricultural practices, climatic conditions, soil fertility and other factors.

Ways to speed up tree fruiting

There are several ways to make trees bear fruit faster. They are different, but their principle of action is the same - to harm the tree. Yes, yes, exactly to do harm.

Acceleration techniques: A– pinching (pinching) shoots: 1 – first; 2 – repeated; b– banding: 1 – removal of a strip of bark about 1 cm wide; 2 – triangular cut of bark about 0.5 cm wide; 3 – wrapping the wound with film; V– kerbovka: 1 – above the kidney; 2 – under the kidney

The fact is that the main task of any plant is to leave heirs. If everything is good in the life of a green pet, it is fed and watered, groomed and cherished, it begins to fatten - it grows upward and in breadth, and is in no hurry to acquire offspring, that is, fruits and seeds. But as soon as the tree becomes ill, as soon as there is reason to “think” that its days are numbered, it immediately begins to multiply. This is exactly what we need.

The goal is to delay the outflow of plastic substances.

Work progress. In May, 3-4 skeletal branches are selected from the tree and tied tightly with wire at the very base (it is more convenient to do this with pliers). And to prevent it from damaging the bark, first wrap the constriction site with burlap in 1-2 layers. The “noose” is left for a couple of months and then removed.

The harvest after this procedure will appear next year.

Nuances. This operation is quite simple and safe. The main thing is not to forget to remove the wire in time! Otherwise, it may grow into the bark and will not be easy to remove. And then there will be a wound at the site of the constriction.

This method can only be used on trees older than 3 years.

You can repeat the constrictions on the trunk after two years, and on the branches after three. In this case, the tree will bear fruit, although not the entire crown, but annually and evenly.

Used to accelerate the onset of fruiting. The effect is achieved by delaying the outflow of organic nutrition to the roots. It consists of removing a circular strip of bark (usually about 1 cm wide) on a trunk or skeletal branch. Best term ringing 20-30 days after flowering. After this, the wound will need to be tied with a strip of film or sealed with opaque tape (if in partial shade, you can use transparent tape).

Work progress. At the end of May - beginning of June, the bark is removed from the base of the skeletal branch in the form of a 2 cm wide ring. Then the bark is turned upside down, attached to the cutout site and wrapped with film. After a couple of months, the film is removed - during this time the bark will grow together with the trunk. But the supply of nutrients to the crown will be disrupted, and this stimulates the formation of flower buds.

Wire looping- nsome call it choking. It is used for the same purpose. Also delays downward current. In this case, the wire is pulled tightly around the barrel. Later in the fall it can be removed, although some believe that it can be left to grow in. Do not oversmother branches that are thinner than 6-7 mm. This and the previous techniques cannot be used on bush cherries due to the tendency to gum formation.

Nuances. Never ring all the skeletal branches at once - this will disrupt the flow of nutrients to the roots of the tree, and it will be severely starved. And he might even die!

You cannot cut a ring more than 2 cm wide - the branch may dry out.

The effect with this method is not as fast as with constriction - after ringing, the trees will begin to bear fruit in 2-3 years. But with age, their yield will increase significantly.

The method can only be used on trees older than 3 years.

It is strictly forbidden to use banding on stone fruits.– cherries, cherries, plums, cherry plums and apricots. Any damage to the bark of these trees causes gum production, which weakens the plant.

Remove all types of constrictions from the tree at the end of October or November, when the sap flow ends.

One more simple trick is Kerbovka. This technique is used both to enhance or weaken the growth of individual shoots and branches, and to accelerate their fruiting.

Cuts above the buds and branches enhance growth, and under the buds they help transform it into a flowering branch, and weaken the branch. It consists in making a crescent-shaped incision, 2-3 mm wide, at a distance of 3-4 mm from the kidney. It is usually considered that it is better to do it in early spring, but some fruit growers allow it to be carried out in June.

The bottom line is that the number of flower buds laid depends on the length of the branching zone. It depends on the degree of bud awakening, which is associated with the angle of departure of the skeletal branches from the trunk. That is, the closer the angle of departure is to 90°, the weaker it grows, but the faster and stronger it bears fruit!!! You can increase the angle of departure by tying the branches to neighboring branches, to a support or stakes driven into the ground or using spacers.

Work progress. At the beginning of May, the branches that usually grow upward in fruit trees need to be moved to a horizontal position. This can be done in two ways: put a spacer between the trunk and the shoot, or pull the branch down using a rope. They should remain in this position until the end of summer, after which the clamps can be removed.

You cannot tie ropes to the top of the shoot - in this case it will bend in an arc. And the effect will be the opposite - tops will begin to actively grow on the “hump”, but flower buds will not form. You need to tie the rope approximately in the middle of the branch.

Nuances. This is the easiest and most safe way, but it is only suitable for young trees - 1–2 years after planting. Thick old branches cannot be bent back.

The effect of changing the orientation of the branches is also not immediate - flower buds are formed only in the 2nd–3rd year.

The following techniques can only be used on individual branches that have not bear fruit for a long time!

If you use them on most branches, then root system will receive less organic matter and the tree's growth may be significantly weakened.

Relevant for young trees. Allows you to quickly form a crown, prepare the tree for earlier fruiting, and accelerate tissue ripening during prolonged growth. It involves removing (pinching with your fingers) the top of a growing shoot with several leaves. It is recommended to carry it out when the shoots reach a length of 30 cm.

Work progress. As soon as the young shoots reach a length of 20–25 cm, pinch off the tops so that 2–3 leaves remain. In this case, the twig spends all its energy on ripening. And the faster it ripens, the sooner it will begin to bloom.

Nuances. The method couldn’t be simpler, but it is only suitable for young trees.

The effect of it is also not quick - it will appear in 2-3 years.

This method consists in cutting the bark to its full depth with the tip of a knife, but in such a way as not to damage the wood. The technique is also effective on young trees: it accelerates the onset of fruiting. It is recommended to carry it out at the beginning of the growing season.

It is also used to thicken trunks or skeletal branches and increase winter hardiness. In addition, it allows you to rejuvenate the tree, primarily its cambium, the aging of which in the branches and trunks leads to the general aging of the tree and to a slower tightening of cuts on old branches.

Work progress. In the third year after planting the seedlings on permanent place draw a straight line with a garden knife south side trunk from the ground to the skeletal branches. At the same time, cut the bark through its entire thickness, right down to the wood.

Within a couple of months, the furrows are overgrown with powerful, even growths on both sides, and by the end of the growing season it will become noticeable that this has contributed to the thickening of the trunk.

Carry out furrowing fruit trees needed at the beginning of active sap flow, in April.

After three years, repeat furrowing with east side, after another three - from the west and after another three - from the north. After this, carry out this agricultural activity with a 12-year cycle again, but in such a way as to definitely not fall into the previous cuts. Although it is difficult to easily detect traces of former furrows. They are overgrown with young, clean bark.

As a result of many years of work, the result is, firstly, furrowed trees have very thick trunks that are significantly larger than those of their peers untouched by a knife, secondly, as a result of this they have a more developed crown, thirdly, other trees cannot compare with furrowed trees in terms of productivity . And lastly, they are more durable.

Why is bark furrowing necessary?

Example: One of the gardeners boasted that in 1993 he collected 680 kg of excellent apples from one apple tree of the Snow Calvil variety! The age of this apple tree at that time was 35 years. The thickness of the trunk in diameter is 40 cm. The diameter of the crown is 7 m. And the diameter of the trunk of an unfurrowed apple tree of the same age as this apple tree reached only 25 cm.

The humane method of Professor Kolomiets

This method, which makes it possible to accelerate the fruiting of fruit trees, was developed in the 40s of the last century by Doctor of Biological Sciences, Professor Ivan Afanasyevich Kolomiets. He used the carrot method rather than the stick method.

Its essence is very simple: in order for the trees to produce a harvest as quickly as possible, they must be fed intensively. With the help of fertilizers, Ivan Afanasyevich managed to induce flowering and fruiting in two-year-old and even one-year-old (in the second spring from grafting) apple and pear trees! Subsequently, these plants increased their yield annually without harm to themselves or loss of fruit quality.

The feeding scheme is as follows:

In the middle of April: Scatter 1-1.5 handfuls (for one-year-olds) or 1.5-2 (for two-year-olds) of azofoska (or nitrophoska) evenly in tree trunk circle(70-80 cm in diameter) and embed into the soil with a rake.
In the middle of May:
At the end of May: the same fertilizer in the same doses.

In this way, older trees, at the age of 4-6 years, can also be stimulated, but the dose must be increased to 3-4 handfuls per trunk circle.

Trees also need to be watered frequently during increased nutrition, andvery abundantly - once a week, 1-2 buckets per plant.

A young garden has one undesirable property: it takes too long to wait for the first fruits. Depending on the variety, this wait can last from three to eight years, and every gardener wants to quickly see the fruits on their apple trees and start harvesting as quickly as possible.

There are several ways to speed up fruiting.

Option 1. The most correct

Selection of early-fruiting varieties that begin to bear fruit in the 2-4th year after planting. These are Prima cherry, apple trees of the varieties Priscilla, Borovinka, New Anis, Bashkir handsome, Renet Povolzhya, Renet Tatarsky, Krasa Sverdlovsk; Bessemyanka new pear, Volga beauty cherry plum and others. It’s easier with stone fruits - almost all varieties begin to produce crops in the 3-5th year.

In any case, much earlier than ordinary tall trees, dwarf and semi-dwarf trees begin to bear fruit.

Option 2. Acceleration

A faster start to fruiting is facilitated by bending the branches and reducing their angle of inclination. The closer to the vertical the angle of inclination of the branch, the more intense its growth occurs, that is, growth processes are intensified, and the formation of flower buds and the beginning of fruiting are delayed.

When the branches tilt closer to the horizontal, on the contrary, their growth slows down, the formation of flower buds begins, and the apple tree begins to bear fruit earlier.

Sometimes, to speed up the onset of fruiting, a wire ring is placed on the branch. In this case, take soft aluminum or copper wire and encircle the branch, then use pliers to pull it until it tightly touches the bark. During the process of growth, the branch thickens, the vessels that conduct nutrients from the aboveground part to the roots are compressed, and the outflow of substances slows down. This, in turn, leads to the formation of flower buds. The ring is removed after a thickening has formed on the branch, otherwise it may completely cut into the thickening branch and break it off.

But still The best way speed up the fruiting of trees - this is good nutrition for young trees. I want to make a reservation right away: good does not mean excessive. Excessive nutrition, especially the application of large amounts of manure or nitrogen fertilizers, can lead to the completely opposite effect: cause increased growth of the vegetative mass, which will lead to a delay in the period of fruiting.

Timely watering of seedlings plus the application of fertilizers in small doses, but every two weeks, will allow you to quickly grow the crown and get the first harvest 1-3 years earlier than usual.

Proper care

In addition, one must beware of severe pruning of a young tree: this weakens it, the roots grow poorly, which, as a rule, leads to a delay in the onset of fruiting. If you know from the varietal characteristics how many years your apple tree should bear its first fruits, then through targeted nutrition - a slight reduction in the doses of nitrogen fertilizers and more intensive nutrition with phosphorus fertilizers - you can also help accelerate fruiting. But such a change in diet is permissible only 1-3 years before the expected fruiting date. In the initial periods of growth, a young apple tree should receive a well-balanced diet.

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It happens that you plant a tree, but there are no fruits. Willy-nilly you will be upset. How to avoid such an unpleasant situation?

1. Buy annual seedlings

Two-year-olds are in greatest demand among summer residents: they are powerful, tall, and it seems that they will produce a harvest literally in a year or two. And this is the main mistake.

In fact, as practice shows, the most the best option- yearlings. Yes they smaller in size, sometimes they look unsightly, but the roots of such trees suffer less from replanting. And, as a result, they begin to bear fruit earlier.

But three-year-olds should be avoided altogether. IN Soviet years they were burned as unnecessary, since such seedlings were considered unsuitable for planting.

2. Dig big holes

Optimal size: diameter - 80 cm, depth - 50 cm. Although it may seem: where is this? For a one year old. Nevertheless, this size is important, since the root system will be located in this space for the first 2 to 3 years. And the more comfortable she is, the faster the tree will gain strength and produce a harvest.

The optimal planting time for seedlings with an open root system is the first half of October. And the holes need to be dug in advance, about a month in advance. That is, already at the end of August - beginning of September.

You must add 2 buckets of humus, 1 cup of superphosphate, 0.5 cups of potassium sulfate and 3 tbsp. spoons of ammonium nitrate. All fertilizers must be thoroughly mixed with the top, fertile layer of soil. This nutritional mixture fill the holes, but not to the brim - after planting the seedling, you will need to pour 15 - 20 cm of soil on top, which will protect the roots from fertilizers until they dissolve to a safe concentration.

Before planting, it is useful to dip the roots of the seedlings in clay mash, to which a little ash and a bag of root (root formation stimulator) are added - this will speed up the survival of the young plant.

4. Trim the seedling short and then let it grow freely

After planting, the seedlings need to be shortened by 1/3. It’s a pity, of course, they are already small, but believe me, this will only benefit them. But in the second year of life, there is no need to prune the young tree - let it grow a good crown.

5. Rotate nitrogen fertilizers

Nitrogen is known to be responsible for tree growth. But in order for it to develop harmoniously, fertilizers must be alternated. In the spring, as soon as the snow melts and the soil dries out a little, you need to add 3 tbsp for each seedling. spoons of ammonium nitrate. It is scattered in a circle around the trunk of the soil and covered
rake. This dose will be enough for a couple of weeks, but during this time the young tree will greatly increase its growth, growing powerful shoots. And then every two weeks until mid-July you need to apply urea to each seedling (according to the instructions on the package). It will help the pear grow leaves.

Not so long ago, summer residents began to use stimulants and growth regulators more actively to grow plants. Today we will find out what these substances are, how they affect the development of plants and how useful they are for achieving this or that result.

Any plant has a certain set of phytohormones, each of which is responsible for its own process in the life of the plant. Examples of these include the most well-known to many of us, gibberellins, cytokinins and auxins. Each of these phytohormones controls a specific process. Thus, gibberellins are responsible for plant flowering and fruiting, auxins regulate the formation of the root system and metabolism, and cytokinins are responsible for the growth of buds and shoots.

Thanks to the isolation of plant hormones by scientists, it was possible to most successfully approach the issue of improving and some transformation of agricultural technology, in which special substances that are analogues of phytohormones may now well participate. These are growth stimulants and regulators.

Where do growth stimulants come from?

On this moment, the most popular method of producing special substances that have a positive effect on plants and supply them with energy for growth and development is known. This is the isolation of special elements and substances from bacteria, fungi, coal, peat, algae and other natural donors. But there are also synthetic analogues that differ little from natural ones.

Use of growth stimulants

Using one or another stimulant, you can get completely different results, because synthesized phytohormones are reflected at different stages of development and vital systems of plants. In addition, correct, phase-by-phase and purely “prescription” use is necessary to get a significant result. But what’s interesting is that by using such drugs, you will always get positive changes.

The maximum effect can be achieved with double use, but only the instructions on the purchased drug will help determine the correct dosage and period of use.

Remember, you should not change the intervals for applying regulatory substances or change the application rates, because oversaturation does not mean a positive result.

Popular growth stimulants

We decided to point you to the most famous and popular stimulants, which most gardeners rely on when growing seedlings and young plants. We really hope that this list will be useful for you and will help you grow not only bright green crops, but also good harvest at the end of the season.

Stimulant Heteroauxin (indoleacetic acid)

This growth stimulator is considered the most famous, as it was the first to be developed in a modern laboratory. Treatment of plants with Heteroauxin increases the amount of the phytohormone auxin and has a positive effect on root formation.

It is possible to treat the seeds, which significantly increases germination. If we process young cuttings, we get maximum survival rate of planting material.

In addition, the drug is very convenient for restoring roots when transplanting seedlings.

The drug is applied according to strict instructions, at the root of the plant, in the form of an aqueous solution.

Growth stimulator Kornevin

Kornevin is not much different from the previous drug, but it affects the plant for a longer period of time, which allows it to systematically gain root strength and take root gradually, without sudden bursts in development.

Kornevin should be applied in the same way, in the form of a properly prepared aqueous solution, at the root of the plant.

Growth stimulator Etamon

A relatively new drug that also stimulates root formation. It is characterized by the fact that it is applied through foliar feeding, which is often more convenient than watering with concentrates at the root.

Etamon allows you to seriously improve the functioning of the root system at the cellular level, due to which it becomes more susceptible to the necessary nutrients. It is no wonder that after using the drug, plants noticeably transform and begin to develop intensively.

Etamon copes with its task perfectly in open and closed ground, but its effect is even better when used in combination with a complete mineral fertilizer.

Stimulator Zircon with fungicidal activity

The drug is aimed at root formation, but at the same time actively increases plant immunity to various fungal infections. This is why Zircon is increasingly being chosen by modern summer residents, because it has a double and very useful effect.

An interesting fact is the increased impact on the root system when used together with the above mentioned means. But be extremely careful, read the instructions and follow the advice of specialists before using the products.

Bioregulator and stimulator Epin

Epin, a drug with a unique effect on plants, is becoming increasingly popular in the windows of specialized retail outlets. They say that having tried it once in your own garden beds, a practical summer resident will always have a supply of the product in his shed.

And why not, because Epin not only relieves plants from stress after transplantation, but also has many other positive characteristics. The product improves tuber formation, stimulates immunity to late blight, significantly increases the nutritional value of potato roots, and reduces the content of nitrates and heavy metal salts. In addition, you should definitely understand that the drug significantly increases the germination of seeds, mainly peppers, cucumbers and tomatoes, and also improves protective functions, helps to increase the number of fruit ovaries, and accelerates ripening.

Experts advise Epin if it is necessary to increase plant energy, protect seedlings and adult crops from negative atmospheric phenomena, neutralize the effects of pesticides, improve plant quality and increase yield.

Stimulants Bud and Ovary

These drugs are used to speed up the flowering of plants and the production of seeds. The preparations contain gibberellins. Processing occurs as follows:

• Before the plant budding, if it is necessary to speed up flowering;
• After the formation of ovaries, if you need to speed up fruit formation.

Rules for the use of growth stimulants

As for each used on summer cottage drugs, for those indicated by us, our own specific rules are prescribed. First of all, it is worth remembering forever that use must be carried out strictly according to the instructions, otherwise the drugs can have the opposite and very unpleasant effect. Let's look at a simple example of using stimulants for growing crops:

• Before sowing seeds in the ground, soak them in Kornevin or Heteroauxin for 6 hours. The seeds will produce much better and more abundant seedlings;
• When the seeds have sprouted, it is necessary to strengthen the seedlings and their root system. To do this, it is advisable to spray with Etamon, Epin or Zircon;
• During transplantation of seedlings to open ground, prepare Kornevin’s solution and treat the roots of the seedlings with it, which will allow each plant to take root well. Spray the plants in the garden bed with Etamon solution twice a month. This will not only speed up rooting and growth, but will also strengthen the seedlings and allow them to adapt. In addition, the seedlings will flower earlier.

Use growth stimulants as directed, build the correct sequences of phytohormones, follow the instructions of the drug, be sure to study the rules of growing healthy seedlings, follow agricultural practices and thanks to this, get a really good harvest.

Rice. Acceleration techniques: a – pinching (pinching) shoots: 1 – first; 2 – repeated; b – banding: 1 – removal of a strip of bark about 1 cm wide; 2 – triangular cut of bark about 0.5 cm wide; 3 – wrapping the wound with film; c – kerbovka: 1 – above the kidney; 2 – under the kidney

How to speed up fruiting or Techniques that not everyone knows

Many gardeners want their trees to begin bearing fruit as early as possible. However, for a number of reasons, they can grow for quite a long time without producing fruit. This may also be due to varietal characteristics and with the planting site and with the lack of shaping and pruning and with the possible fattening of plants in case of excess nutrition. However, these factors can be compensated for by carrying out one or more specific agricultural practices. Therefore, we offer you ways to speed up the onset of fruiting. In addition to traditional tree management techniques, such as pruning, there are also lesser known ones. They are mainly mechanical and surgical.

Ways to speed up the onset of fruiting

The simplest method is just bend the vector

In practice this is the simplest technique. The bottom line is that the number of flower buds laid depends on the length of the branching zone. It depends on the degree of bud awakening, which is associated with the angle of departure of the skeletal branches from the trunk. That is The closer the angle of departure is to 90°, the weaker it grows, but the faster and stronger it bears fruit!!! You can increase the angle of departure by tying the branches to neighboring branches, to a support or stakes driven into the ground or using spacers.

Photo source: supersadovod.ru

Another simple technique is Kerbovka. This technique is used both to enhance or weaken the growth of individual shoots and branches, and to accelerate their fruiting. Cuts above the buds and branches enhance growth, and under the buds they help transform it into a flowering one, and weaken the branch. t. It consists in making a crescent-shaped incision 2-3 mm wide at a distance of 3-4 mm from the kidney. It is usually considered that it is better to do it early in the spring, but some fruit growers allow it to be carried out in June.

Banding

Used to accelerate the onset of fruiting. The effect is achieved by delaying the outflow of organic nutrition to the roots. It consists of removing a circular strip of bark (usually about 1 cm wide) on a trunk or skeletal branch. The best time for banding is 20-30 days after flowering. After this, the wound will need to be tied with a strip of film or sealed with opaque tape (if in partial shade, you can use transparent tape). You can do it differently: having found a flat place, take out a ring of bark 6-10 cm wide, turn it over and insert it into place. In this case, it is necessary to cut strictly perpendicular to the axis of the trunk. After this, the inserted ring is secured with tape.

Wire looping(some call this choking). It is used for the same purpose. Also delays downward current. In this case, the wire is tightened tightly around the trunk. Later in the fall it can be removed, although some believe that it can be left to grow in. Do not oversmother branches that are thinner than 6-7 mm. This and the previous techniques cannot be used on bush cherries due to the tendency to gum formation.

The last 3 techniques can only be used on individual branches that have not bear fruit for a long time!!! If you use them on most of the branches, the root system will not receive enough organic matter and the growth of the tree may be significantly weakened.

Pincing

Relevant for young trees. Allows you to quickly form a crown, prepare the tree for earlier fruiting, and accelerate tissue ripening during prolonged growth. It involves removing (by pinching with your fingers) the top of a growing shoot with several leaves. It is recommended to carry it out when the shoots reach a length of 30 cm.

Furrowing

It lies in the fact that the tip of the knife cuts the bark to its full depth, but so as not to damage the wood. The technique is also effective on young trees: it accelerates the onset of fruiting. It is recommended to carry it out at the beginning of the growing season.

This is interesting!!!

Why is bark furrowing necessary?

Example One of the gardeners boasted that in 1993 he harvested 680 kg of excellent apples from one apple tree of the Snow Calvil variety! The age of this apple tree at that time was 35 years. The thickness of the trunk in diameter is 40 cm. The diameter of the crown is 7 m. And the diameter of the trunk of an unfurrowed apple tree of the same age as this apple tree reached only 25 cm.

Example paragraph taken from hozvo.ru

It is also used to thicken trunks or skeletal branches and increase winter hardiness. In addition, it allows you to rejuvenate the tree, primarily its cambium, the aging of which in the branches and trunks leads to the general aging of the tree and to a slower tightening of cuts on old branches.

Alexander Zharavin, agronomist.