It is better to plant hazelnuts in spring or autumn. Common hazel - giving hazelnuts: planting, growing and care

Did you know that the most high-calorie nut of all nuts is HAZELNUT? The kernels of these nuts contain 65-72% high-quality oil, 16-21% protein, 3.5% sugar, vitamins B and B, and minerals. The kernels taste good. They are eaten raw, dried, fried. A decoction of the leaves is drunk for hypertrophy. prostate gland, nuts are used for urolithiasis. In addition, hazelnuts are used to stabilize slopes, and red-leaved forms are used in decorative purposes. It looks especially beautiful in solitaire plantings. If the space allows, plant just one plant with purple leaves in the center of the lawn and it will look great. All these advantages explain the growing interest of gardeners in such a plant as hazelnuts; its cultivation is accessible to everyone, and it brings considerable benefits.

Hazelnut or hazel is an early flowering plant. In the middle or second half of April, when the snow has not yet melted and the leaves on the trees have not yet blossomed, hazel is in a hurry to bloom: the earrings of the male flowers stretch out, loosen, and clouds of pollen are easily carried by the wind from one bush to another. For normal fruiting, hazel needs cross-pollination, so two or three bushes need to be planted on the site.

Seedlings bloom at 5-7 years, seedlings at 3-4 years. The fruit of the nut is round or elongated in shape with a hard shell, covered on top with a plush (wrapper) of fused covering leaves. The fruits ripen in September and fall out easily. Hazel lays flower buds annually, but due to unfavorable conditions it bears fruit periodically. The yield of dry nuts ranges from 0.5 to 3 kg per bush. The greatest harvest is produced at the age of 10-15 years. The trunks of the bush live 25-40 years.

What does hazelnut like?

Hazel is resistant to low temperatures. In the north it can withstand frosts down to - 50°C. And even if it freezes, it quickly recovers over the next two years.

The cultural form of hazel adapts well to growing conditions. It is shade-tolerant, but grows and bears fruit better with sufficient light. If there is too much shading, drying of young branches and a sharp decrease in yield are observed. It grows well on fairly moist gray forest soils with low or neutral acidity and responds to the lime content in the soil. If the soil is acidic and podzolic, then a year before or before planting, add lime at the rate of 500 g per 1 m2. The earth is dug up with one and a half shovels. Then they make 60x50 cm holes, filling them with the top layer of soil. At the same time, fertilizers are applied (200 g of superphosphate, 50 g of potassium salt), covering them in the upper and middle layers. Autumn - best time landings. On a garden plot, hazel bushes can be placed near the outbuildings, on the shady side of the house or at the entrance to the plot, or they can be planted instead of a fence along the edge of the plot. Since planting hazelnuts is not so difficult, more and more summer residents are acquiring this useful plant.

We plant and care for seedlings correctly

How to plant hazelnuts correctly? Planting is carried out with 2-year-old seedlings, preferably with a clod of earth. The plants are watered, and when the water is absorbed, the holes are mulched with peat or humus. The placement of seedlings is 5x4 or 4x4 m.

To enhance the growth of basal branches and further formation of the bush, the above-ground part of the seedlings after planting is cut off at a height of 25 cm from the soil surface. During the first 5-6 years, vegetables can be grown between the bushes, melons or strawberries. When the hazel bears fruit, after the bushes close, the soil is kept under natural turf, but the grass must be mowed. At first, the soil is systematically loosened to a depth of 5-7 cm, mulched with mown grass, and before winter it is dug up to a depth of 10-15 cm.

The hazel root system is well developed and has a large number of small branches. It is located superficially, but individual roots penetrate the soil to a depth of 1-1.5 m. Hazel roots have mycorrhizae, that is, special soil fungi that can replace the suction hairs of the root, so when planting plants in new areas, add 100-200 g to the hole soil taken from under its bushes in the forest.

Best used in the garden complex fertilizers(nitrophoska) on young plantings up to 5-6 years old at the rate of 30-40 g, on fruit-bearing plants - up to 100 g per 1 mg. Organic matter is added once per

2-3 years at the rate of 10 kg per 1 m2. It is advisable to fertilize with 0.5% concentration of urea during fruit set and ovary growth. Watering for nuts is only required in dry years. Then water 3-4 times. The first time immediately after flowering, the second - in June, the third in July during the filling of the kernel, the fourth watering - moisture recharging - after leaf fall.

Formation of plants

Many people know how to grow hazelnuts, but how to form them correctly? Fruiting bushes should have 8-10 stems, evenly spaced at the base. Thickening and shading shoots and branches, as well as broken, weak and underdeveloped ones, are promptly removed. When pruning and shaping bushes, you need to be especially careful to ensure that each branch is well lit. And they start with thinning 3-5 years after planting. On bushes that are properly formed in at a young age, further cutting consists of the annual removal of stump growth, dry and mechanically damaged trunks and branches. On fruit-bearing bushes, annual shoots cannot be shortened, since it is on them that the harvest is formed.

After 20-25 years of age, the bushes are rejuvenated by removing 2-3 trunks annually and leaving 2-3 young shoots in return. This has been done continuously for several years.

The nuts are harvested in September, when they acquire a light brown color and begin to fall out of the pile. The collected nuts are dried. To do this, they are spread in a thin layer in a room with good ventilation and mixed frequently.

The main pests of hazel are: nut weevil, soil mites, caterpillars, aphids, scale insects - settling on soils, leaves, flowers and fruits, they weaken plants, retarding their growth and reducing yield. To protect the bushes from them, they are sprayed with Inta-Vir.

The first time before the buds open, the second time after the leaves open. Against fungal diseases of the core, treatment with colloidal sulfur is done at a concentration of 1.5-2%.

Hazelnut propagation

Hazel can be propagated by seeds, layering and root shoots. For propagation by seeds, take nuts collected from the best bushes, sown in autumn or spring. Autumn sowing carried out at the end of September on a well-harvested and loose bed. Planting depth is 4-6 cm, distance between rows is 20 cm. linear meter 40 to 50 nuts are sown in a row. The rows are mulched with humus. For spring sowing, nuts must be stratified for 3-4 months. To do this, they are mixed with sand, peat or sawdust and kept in the snow or basement at a temperature of + 1... - 5°C until sowing. Before placing the seeds in the basement, they are kept for two weeks at a temperature of +18-22°C. Stratified seeds are sown in the ground in early May. The shoots appear together. The cotyledons are not carried to the surface and remain in the soil. Caring for seedlings involves loosening the soil and systematically watering and removing weeds. By autumn, annual seedlings reach a height of 20-30 cm, sometimes up to 80 cm. permanent place seedlings are planted at 2 years of age.

To obtain layering, annual branches are placed in shallow grooves in the spring and pinned to the soil with hooks. The top of a branch 10-15 cm long is tied vertically to a peg. When shoots begin to grow from the buds of the pinned branch, they are spudded. Hazel layerings take root slowly. To speed up root formation, the bases of growing shoots are tied with two or three rings soft wire. Rooted cuttings are separated from the mother bushes and grown for another year.

Root growth occurs in the root collar area or close to it. Several branched roots are formed at the base of the root shoots. In the spring, such shoots are carefully separated from the mother bushes and transferred to a new planting site. In order to encourage the growth of annual shoots, cut down part of the bush. For amateur gardeners, this is the most acceptable option, since it is easiest to grow hazelnuts from shoots.

For the winter, the skeletal branches of hazel are bent to the ground. This will protect men's earrings from freezing. With the onset of winter, the branches are covered with snow, and in the spring, after it melts, they are raised.

Location

The growth, development and fruiting of hazelnuts are significantly influenced by the soil, exposure and illumination of the site. The choice of landing site plays an important role. Hazelnut, as a plant of the forest community, prefers warm, protected from draft winds in summer and winter, sunny places. This could be, for example, near the walls of buildings on the western and southwestern sides. Due to this, the sum of active temperatures during the growing season will increase by a certain number of degrees. And if there are no buildings, then protection from the winds will be hedge from Canadian serviceberry or something like that. Neighboring plants with a voluminous crown should be placed at a distance of 4-5 m to ensure an optimal feeding area for hazelnuts of 16-25 sq. m (when grown as a bush). For ease of maintenance, it is desirable that the area be level. Fruiting is much stronger when planted in regular rows (every 4-5m), when the bushes and trunks are open to air and sun, and the areas themselves are easily accessible for cultivating the soil, watering, and cleaning it weeds and for fertilizer. In shaded places and when planted closely, it produces a skinny harvest of fruit.

In Turkey, for example, most of the plantations are located in the foothills, that is, on slopes - the main thing is that there is enough light, heat and moisture. When choosing a planting site, you must ensure that it is not flooded with water in the spring. In such places, plants grow poorly and eventually die. In addition, it should not be planted in a dark place. Here the plants grow well, but bear little fruit. It is advisable to place the bushes so that they are illuminated as much as possible, which helps to increase the yield.

Soils

In general, hazelnuts are considered an unpretentious crop. But on soils rich in nutrients and with sufficient moisture, it develops better and gives high yields. The best soils for hazelnuts are black soils different types and gray forest soils of light and medium mechanical composition, well drained, with groundwater no closer than 1-1.5 m. But let’s be realistic that in the middle zone such lands are rare in themselves, and such lands were not distributed for dachas. So let us take into account that almost all types of soil are suitable for hazelnuts, except dry sandy, swampy and saline. Acidic soils must first be limed at the rate of 500 g of lime per 1 square meter. m. When planting seedlings on chernozems, it is necessary to add sand and compost humus for better moisture and air permeability. Hazel loves warm loamy or sandy loamy soils, lying in a deep layer and well fertilized. It does not tolerate cold, heavy, compacted soils well.

How to plant, what to feed during planting

It is best to plant hazelnut seedlings in a permanent place in the fall (early October), in still warm, moist soil. But it is also possible in early spring- in April-May (when the earth warms up). The main thing is to provide them with sufficient moisture at this moment. The roots will grow quickly and towards the onset warm days covered with suction hairs, managing to use winter moisture reserves, providing the above-ground part with nutrients.

For autumn planting, the soil is prepared in the spring, and for spring planting, in the fall. The point is that for six months the land is fallow, which ensures the accumulation of moisture, and for best holiday weeds are removed regularly (loosening and weeding).

After dividing the site, at least 2 weeks before planting, a planting hole with a diameter and depth of 0.5 m is filled with the top layer of soil, adding 150 g of superphosphate, 50 g of potassium salt, 2-3 buckets of humus or 5-8 kg of manure. Fertilizers are distributed in the upper and middle parts of the pit, and a stake is installed in the center of the mound. A seedling is planted near it. Before planting, the roots are straightened and dipped in a mixing solution. The most important thing is not to forget at this moment to put 2-3 handfuls of soil with mycorrhiza from under hazelnut to a depth of 15 cm. When planting, the level of the root collar is deepened by 2-3 cm, which stimulates branching and root growth. But the root collar itself cannot be covered with soil. The soil is compacted in the area where the roots spread. After planting, the above-ground part of the plant is cut off above the 5-6 bud, leaving 20-25 cm above the soil level. When planting, regardless of the weather, the seedlings are watered abundantly at the rate of 3-5 buckets of water for each bush and the tree trunk circles are mulched with various available materials - pine needles, sawdust, humus, manure, compost, so that moisture is better retained, but the mulch should not come into contact with the trunk so that the bark does not prop up. Watering must be repeated after 5-7 days. With 2-3 times of watering, the soil capillaries will connect, the planting ball will not separate from the rest of the soil and will remain in a constantly moist state.

The above complex refueling will provide the seedling with the necessary nutrients for 3-4 years.

Taking into account biological and morphological features for hazelnuts, depending on the fertility of the soil and the intensity of irrigation, a planting scheme can be recommended - in rainfed conditions, bush hazelnuts are grown with a feeding area of ​​6×4, 6×5, 6×6 m, and when irrigated on rich lands, a planting scheme of 6×8 m is used On poor lands - 3x5, 4x5, 5x5 m. The better the soil and the taller the variety, the more powerful the bush will grow and the more space it will need to develop and form a crop.

In Turkey (with a 1-standard form of cultivation), to increase productivity, the nest planting method is adopted: 5 plants are planted in a circle with a diameter of 1-1.5 m according to a 6 × 6 m pattern. Thus, with a 6 × 6 m planting pattern, one nest occupies 36 m². There are 278 nests per hectare, five seedlings per nest, 1,400 plants. In this case, each plant is grown in one trunk ( standard form), and the root shoots are destroyed at the first appearance. There is an opinion that by removing shoots in the first years of the growing season 2-3 times per season, over time you can achieve their complete disappearance. Some hazelnut varieties are prone to excessive root growth, which leads to depleted bushes and reduced yield. In this case, part of the root shoots must be removed in early age when the shoots rise 5-8 cm above the soil surface. Cutting them out at the level of the soil surface does not lead to a decrease in the amount of root shoots. Even the reverse process is observed, since pruning the shoots causes them to branch. Therefore for effective removal overgrowth, you need to dig up the soil around each shoot and cut it down to the base with pruning shears. Pruning is carried out in early spring.

Care, weed control

Caring for hazelnuts is not difficult. For the first time (5-6 years, that is, before the start of active fruiting) during the growing season, the tree trunk circles are shallowly loosened several times, weeds are promptly removed between the rows and mulched with mowed grass. Size tree trunk circles must be at least the diameter of the crown.

The hazelnut root system is fibrous, reaching a soil depth of up to 100 cm. The bulk of the roots occur in the soil layer of 0-20 cm (45-52%). On light soils at a depth of 10-15 cm, on heavy soils - up to 20 cm. In the case of applying organic fertilizers, sand, lime, it is necessary to carefully dig up the soil in the tree trunk circle so as not to damage the roots. You can dig or hoe to a depth of 5-7 cm. Therefore, tools, depth and quality of loosening, especially within the tree trunk circle, play a special role.

OPTION 1st. With the onset of fruiting, do not dig up the soil unnecessarily, do not disturb its structure, do not damage the roots and do not waste labor in vain. Hazel reacts very well to grassing, both permanent and temporary. Cereals are sown on neutral soils. On sour ones - blue lupine. On alkaline ones - vetch-oat mixture, which improves physical properties soil, create a good structure.

OPTION 2nd. With the onset of fruiting, cover the soil in tree trunk circles with a 10 cm layer of wood chips or any other mulch. Thanks to this method of protecting against weeds, labor costs are reduced tenfold + this is beneficial for plants, since it protects the soil from weathering, washing out, and freezing. In winter, mulch prevents the soil from freezing too much. If on open areas the ground freezes to a depth of 25-30 cm, then in places covered with mulch by 10-15 cm. In the presence of mulch, grass grows much worse. In addition, after a year, the imitation of forest litter brings life back to the soil: its beneficial microflora increases several times - for example, earthworms live in it tens of times more than usual, and this is a direct path to improving soil fertility. In addition, if the inter-row space is sown with green manure crops, then this perfect option agricultural technology. OPTION 3. Some gardeners still prefer to dig up tree trunks.

Watering

Hazelnut - moisture-loving fruit crop, so it is advisable to plant it near rivers and beams. The growth of hazelnuts depends on the moisture supply of the soil; plants develop better in the spring-summer period, when there are sufficient moisture reserves in the soil. Hazel trees of all varieties are damaged in severe drought. To obtain guaranteed and sustainable yields, irrigation is mandatory and economically justified; it almost doubles the yield of nuts. For normal growth and fruiting, the hazel tree requires 750 mm of precipitation per year. In the Moscow region, 450-550 mm falls, therefore, the difference of 200-250 mm or more must be made up by watering, especially in summer. Depending on the weather, carry out 1-2 waterings per month, and 5-6 times in total. 1st - immediately after flowering, 2nd - in May, 3rd in June, 4-5th in July, during filling the kernel, 6th watering watering, after leaf fall. The greatest need for irrigation is in June and July, when intensive fruit growth occurs and the generative organs of the next year's crop are laid. Watering volume 40-50 l warm water on the bush. And if you use drip irrigation, then water consumption can be reduced many times and the topography of your garden will not require careful planning.

Zoning of the territory of the Moscow region according to the moisture coefficient Ky for a period with t ≥ 50?C.

Fertilizers

From the beginning of fruiting and further annually, it is necessary to add 1-2 buckets of humus or other organic matter + 100-150 g of nitroammophoska or “Kemira” to each plant. Every year, during the period of fruit set (June) and ovary growth, plants are fertilized with 0.5% concentration of urea. Good results are achieved by adding wood ash to the tree trunks in the fall. This technique greatly increases the yield and earlier entry of seedlings into fruiting. All fertilizers can be applied in dry form, after which they need to be incorporated into the soil by surface loosening, watered, and then mulched well.

If the soil in the garden is not poor, then it is better not to apply nitrogen fertilizers, since they cause rapid growth of plants and their yield, as a rule, decreases. It is better when the plants have restrained growth, while large quantity flower buds and male earrings. All this ultimately increases the yield of nuts. On richly fertilized soil, the nut will produce a large increase with incomplete ripening of the shoots, which will lead to freezing or freezing of the bushes, so on rich chernozems it is better to mix the soil with sand or compost.

In the case of turfing of the hazel tree trunks, fertilizers are applied to the holes, which are made with a drill or a shovel along the periphery of the crown projection, periodically updating them annually. The type of fertilizer and application dose depend on the soil fertility of the site. The annual norm of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers can be applied to the soil immediately - before the start of the growing season; Nitrogen fertilizers are applied fractionally: in the spring 50-60%, the rest - in the form of fertilizing. It is most effective to feed hazel with slurry, which is prepared as follows: 1/3 of the barrel is filled with manure, 2/3 with water. The slurry ferments for 2 weeks and needs to be stirred frequently. After this, the slurry is diluted by half with water and used for watering into the holes. An adult fruiting bush requires 3-4 buckets. For fertilizing, it is preferable to use organic fertilizers - spread humus or manure under the plants up to 15-20 kg per bush. Every spring, the hazelnuts are mulched with humus or other mulch with a layer of about 10 cm and make sure that the soil is moist. During this period, fertilizing with nitrogen is very effective. When foliar feeding, hazelnuts are sprayed with an aqueous solution of urea at a rate of 50-100 g per plant or applied to the soil followed by watering. So, let's summarize. Organic fertilizers (manure, compost) are applied as basic fertilizers to improve the soil composition. Mineral fertilizers- for feeding. Usually in the summer when male inflorescences are laid and in the spring when female inflorescences bloom, as well as during planting and 1.5 months after. The combination of mulching and fertilizing creates a favorable nutrition regime for plants. Moisturizing increases the mobility of the main elements, activates root mycorrhiza, and reduces the trauma of surface roots (during planting, loosening and weeding).

For the winter, young plants must be covered with spunbond or lutrasil only in the first 2-3 years, or bent down for the winter and covered with spruce branches + snow to prevent unripe shoots from breaking off and freezing by snow. But in the future it is necessary to remember that in the zone Middle zone You should not get carried away with watering and nitrogen fertilizers at the end of summer so that the branches and the entire tree have time to ripen well - in this case they will not be afraid of frost.

Common hazel is a deciduous shrub reaching a height of up to 10 meters. Such shrub has medicinal properties. Therefore, hazel is popularly called hazel.

The plant belongs to the hazel family. Hazel leaves are large, with jagged edges, and are red in autumn.. Shrub bark Brown with transverse stripes. There is a powerful root system, growing very quickly deep in the soil.

After planting, the shrub grows slowly, gradually increasing in height. Flowering occurs before the leaves bloom, in early spring. Catkins about 5-7 cm long are formed on trees, are single and collected in several pieces together. The fruit is an oval-shaped nut located in a green plus. Fruit ripening occurs towards the end of summer. Up to 20 nuts can be formed in the fruit, but 2-5 pieces are more common. The bush begins to bear fruit after 8 years. This shrub is long-lived, its age reaches 100 years, and it is frost-resistant.

Hazel easily tolerates shade, but develops and grows better in illuminated areas.

In nature, hazel is found in Russia, the Caucasus, and Crimea. There are more than 10 types.

• Common hazel
• Tree-like
• Large
• Manchurian
• Variegated
• Horned

Received the name bear nut. Tree up to 20 meters long, 8 meters wide. The bark of the bush has grey colour and peels off in plates. It grows very slowly. In autumn the leaves turn yellow. The fruits of tree hazel are divided into sharp segments. The shrub is unpretentious, tolerates drought, and adapts to any climate.

Large hazel bush(Lombardy nut) has grayish branches, up to 15 meters long. The leaves are large and serrated. Does not tolerate frost well. Often grown in the Balkans.

Hazel Manchurian

It is a shrub with many trunks, has a trunk length from 3 to 7 meters. The bark of hazel is brown, the leaves are round in shape and have a dark green color. The fruits are oblong nuts. The shrub is shade-tolerant and frost-resistant. Found in Primorsky and Khabarovsk Territories.

Very dense shrub up to 4 meters high. The leaves change color. Green in summer, red in spring, yellow in autumn. The shrub loves light, can tolerate shade, is frost-resistant, and tolerates drought. It begins to bear fruit early. Grows in the Urals Far East and Siberia.

Grows up to 3 meters in height. Has a lush crown and oval leaves yellow color . It got its name from its fruit, which resembles a horn. Grows in North America.

Composition and benefits of hazelnuts

Hazelnuts, also called hazelnuts, are the most common and favorite type of nut. Hazelnuts are considered a valuable and tasty nut, several times more nutritious than bread and dairy products.

Hazelnut has beneficial features, high nutritional and energy value, enriched with vitamins and minerals.

The bulk of the fruit consists of fats, one fifth of proteins and amino acids. The nut contains a huge number of minerals:

• Potassium
• Phosphorus
• Magnesium
• Sodium
• Iron

All of the listed healing and medicinal properties fill the body with energy. Hazel fruit oil contains acids that can protect the heart and blood vessels. The nut is useful for the growth and development of the body for children, and for the elderly to maintain strength and health.. In addition, hazelnuts contain substances that can cleanse the body and remove toxins. Vitamins prevent the appearance of cancer cells. IN medicinal purposes fruits, leaves, bark, roots are used. Hazel is a laxative and is used for diarrhea. A decoction of tree bark can serve as a medicine for varicose veins.

Hazelnuts are widely used in cooking. The nut is used in cooking various dishes and also added to baked goods.

Preparations prepared from hazel are used in cosmetology. Oil and decoction of walnut leaves are used against hair loss.

But, Along with beneficial substances, there are also contraindications. It is necessary to eat a limited amount of nut, otherwise it causes headache and allergic reactions.

Planting and caring for a tree

At correct landing For hazel, you need to choose a free, sunny place. The tree grows well on any soil, does not like wetlands and sandy areas. Before planting, it is necessary to prepare a place that will not flood the seedlings when spring comes.

The favorable time for planting is autumn, but you can plant seedlings in the spring, until the end of April. The distance between trees as they grow should be at least five meters. To harvest the crop, it is necessary to plant three or more mutually pollinating shrubs.

It is very important to know that the bush does not bear fruit alone.

Before planting, you need to purchase a young seedling; it can be dug up in the forest. Prepare a hole by digging with a shovel, measuring 80 by 80 cm and 80 cm deep. Humus and black soil fertilizer are added to each hole and mixed with the soil. Form a hole around the seedlings and water with water. Then mulch with sawdust or grass.

After planting, the young shrub must be watered, weeded, fed with fertilizers, and treated against pests. After planting a young shrub, it is necessary to loosen the soil and water it, especially in hot summer weather. An adult tree does not require special care; it is necessary to prune for good fruiting. When purchasing, you need to beware of seedlings; they bear fruit several years later and the nut is smaller in size. Hazel grows in mixed and coniferous forests, in the steppe, along rivers. Hazel is widespread in Russia, the Caucasus, Europe, and the Primorsky Territory.

Rules for reproduction and cultivation

There are different methods of propagation: vegetative and seed. The seed method is used when growing seedlings. For sowing, ripened nuts are taken and sown immediately after harvest in September.

Varietal shrubs are propagated vegetatively:

• By layering
• Rhizomes
• Vaccinations
• Dividing bushes
• Cuttings

When propagated by layering young shoots are bent and rooted to the ground, without being torn away from the bush. Everything should be done with caution so as not to harm the buds that will produce young shoots.

Rhizomatous shoots The plant appears in the third year after planting the seedlings. One shrub produces more than a hundred shoots, and they are used for propagation. Separate three-year-old rhizomes along the edges of the bush using a hatchet, shovel or hacksaw. The shoots have weak roots; they are planted in one hole, 3 pieces each. And in nurseries they grow for about 2 years to strengthen the root system.

Hazel can also be propagated by dividing the bush.. The uprooted bush is divided into several parts so that each stump has roots. After planting, abundant watering should be done to ensure good establishment of the bush. Already in the third year, such seedlings begin to bear fruit.

To propagate by grafting, cuttings are harvested in the fall and stored in a cool place. The grafting is done in the spring in the butt, in a split or behind the bark. Bark grafting takes root better. The grafts are smeared with garden varnish and covered with film. After the buds open, the film is removed.

Hazel cuttings are rooted in closed ground with high humidity.. It is necessary to cut seedlings 10 centimeters long and remove lower leaves. After this, prepare a composition of sand, peat, soil and humus. The cuttings are planted in boxes with moist soil under a film. After 3 weeks, after the roots appear, the film is removed.

Harvesting

The hazel harvest occurs in the third year, when the bush begins to bear fruit in September.

The maturity of the fruit is determined by the acquisition of a yellow shell and crumbling.

When shaking the tree, nuts that have not fallen off need to be given time to ripen. Immediately after ripening, the nuts are not suitable for consumption. They need to dry for some time in a dry and ventilated area. It is recommended to store nuts in bags through which air passes. When harvesting, the soil under the bush is heavily trampled down; it must then be loosened, watered and fertilized.

Susceptibility to diseases and pests

Hazel is extremely susceptible to diseases and pests. There are many bush pests:

• Shchitovka
• Weevil beetle

Damaged fruits are shed by caterpillars in huge quantities. Dangerous pest is a weevil beetle. When spring comes, it eats leaves and then lays eggs. A larva appears inside the nut and gnaws out the entire contents. To combat pests, it is necessary to spray the bushes after flowering with a solution of chlorophos or other preparations. Measures are being taken to remove leaves and damaged nuts from around the tree.

IN garden plots still rare to find lush and beautiful tree hazel, although the shrub is popular. The shrub has many values ​​in medicine, and the wood is of particular value in furniture and industrial production. In addition, the shrub is an object of beauty in any garden, especially during flowering.

Known since ancient times for both the excellent taste of its fruits - nuts, their high nutritional value, and those attributed to it folk beliefs magical properties wood This useful shrub is also invaluable for its winged helpers - bees. Its abundant spring flowering provides a huge amount of the main food for insects - pollen, thoroughly supporting them after wintering. The excellent decorative properties of hazel, and especially its hybrid crop - hazelnuts, are increasingly used by gardeners in decoration summer cottages and estates.

Description of culture

Representing a deciduous shrub or a low tree, up to 8 m in height, hazel, a photo of which can be seen in the article, has a decorative and attractive appearance. The oval or spherical dense crown and light, smooth gray-brown bark with transverse stripes create a pleasant impression. Hazelnuts bloom in early spring, even before the leaves bloom. Since hazel appears, beautiful staminate earrings, single or collected in bunches, and pistillate flowers appear on it. Four bifurcated connected stamens make up the flower. Spring hazelnut blossoms are a beautiful, life-affirming sight. The fruit of hazel is a nut. They are pubescent with a greenish plus and are combined into inflorescences of 3-5 or more pieces. Hazelnuts bear fruit annually, alternating between abundant and moderate harvests. Fruiting, starting from the 5th to 8th year, is typical for such crops as hazel (hazel). Planting and care are determined by the method of planting.

Nuts: composition and benefits

Ripe hazel kernels are not only very tasty, but also the most high-calorie of all types of nuts. They exceed in nutritional value the products produced by the meat and dairy industry. The fatty oils, trace elements, vitamins, amino acids and their unique compounds contained in nuts give the kernels excellent taste and healing qualities. Eating them is beneficial for children and adults; it contributes to the multifaceted development of the young body, as well as prolonging life and maintaining good health in people mature age. Nuts are eaten raw or roasted, added as a filler in the production of chocolate, confectionery, oriental sweets. And it has excellent taste and is a component of salads, hot and cold appetizers. The long shelf life of hazelnut fruits (3-4 years), during which they do not lose their basic qualities, is another advantage of this unique product.

The tannins, tannins present in the hazel bark and leaves, essential oils allow their effective use in the perfume and pharmaceutical industries.

Medicinal properties

The high bactericidal properties of hazel are successfully used in the treatment of skin diseases (neurodermatitis, eczema, etc.). The young leaves of the plant alleviate painful symptoms of liver damage, and the peeled fruits (without brown husks) mixed with honey enhance the hematopoietic function of the body and relieve rheumatic pain. Vodka infusions of nuts are successfully used in the treatment of pulmonary problems, bronchitis, feverish conditions, and kidney stones. Pounded kernels, thoroughly mixed with egg whites, are an excellent remedy for chemical and thermal burns. Decoctions of spring bark relieve feverish conditions due to malaria, nut oil helps in the fight against helminths, and is used in cosmetology.

Hazel: photos demonstrating decorativeness

The decorative qualities of the shrub are no less important. Hazel is prized landscape designers garden areas thanks to the dense foliage, which turns yellow and red in autumn. There are also very picturesque forms of hazel with a wonderful crimson tint of leaves that lasts throughout the season. This is the so-called red-leaved hazel. Use of such unusual plants in a backyard it will not just decorate the space, but make it unique and inimitable.

Red-leaved and green-leaved hazel

To ensure annual fruiting, mutually pollinating varieties should be planted on the site. Hazel “first-born” and “Tambov early” are precisely pollinators of red-leaved forms. By forming a sufficient number of winter-hardy male inflorescences, they prevent loss of yield. Since in winter hazel pollen often dies, but retains female flowers, which are subsequently pollinated due to the winter reserves of the pollinating variety. Hazelnut species with green leaves are considered more winter-hardy. And red-leaved hazel is vulnerable in the cold season. However, among the red-leaved varieties, the “Maria Makarevich” and “Pushkinsky Red” varieties are famous for their frost resistance.

At the beginning of the last century, I.V. Michurin, working on the acclimatization of southern hazelnut species, obtained winter-hardy crops. Subsequently over the years breeding work New varieties of hazelnuts with excellent characteristics were created, successfully growing today both in the southern and temperate latitudes of Russia.

and care

Hazelnut prefers eastern and northeastern areas of low slopes. It is in these areas that the risk of burns or freezing is minimal. Hazel is shade-tolerant, but constant shading can lead to loss of productivity and decorative value. For planting, you should choose ones that are protected from bright light. sunlight And strong wind areas with fertile, well-drained neutral soils without flooding by groundwater. To obtain sustainable walnut yields, shrubs should be planted at intervals of 3 meters to allow cross-wind pollination.

Hazel propagation

Planting hazel is a simple process, but time-consuming if planting material cook on your own. Hazel is propagated by seeds, by dividing the bush or by root cuttings, which are bent to the ground and, pinned, placed in grooves and covered with soil. The tops of the branches are carefully lifted and tied to pegs. After a year, well-rooted cuttings can be transplanted to a selected permanent location. Planting hazel seeds is a longer and more labor-intensive process. Firstly, stratification will be required, i.e. long-term cooling of seeds planted in the ground, simulating biological winter. And secondly, with such propagation, the main characteristics of the mother culture change, and the variety is not preserved. Typically, hazelnut seedlings degenerate into half-hazelnuts, which, however, are not inferior in taste and decorative qualities to the mother form. Naturally, the time for the start of fruiting is also delayed. The seed material is ripe nuts - hazel. Planting and care are quite simple. Seeds are sown in the fall, deepening them to 7-8 cm, or in the spring - by 5-6 cm. When planted with seeds, hazel begins to bear fruit after 6-8 years. vegetative propagation give a chance young bush enter the fruiting season for 3-4 years.

Vegetative propagation

The bush grows due to dormant buds located on the rhizome. 2-3 year old shoots have weak roots. They need to grow for a couple more years. Layers with roots more than 15 cm take root well. Purchased or grown hazel seedlings can be planted in spring or autumn. Pre-planting treatment of the plant consists of cutting off dead or broken roots and dipping them in manure and clay mash, which protects them from rotting. The foliage that has fallen from the hazel tree introduces into the soil a full range of nutrients necessary for the crop. nutrients. Therefore, it is worth adding just such soil - from under an adult hazelnut bush - and humus to the planting hole for the seedling. The seedling is carefully placed in the hole, sprinkled with soil and compacted, watered well. The root collar of the plant should rise 3-4 cm above ground level. The final stage of planting is mulching the soil in the place where a plant such as hazel (hazel) was planted. Planting and care at this stage are not burdensome for the gardener.

Bush formation

Ensuring that shrubs are decorative does not cause much trouble for the gardener. It is practically not pruned, removing only broken branches and unnecessary growth. They form a bush with 6-8 trunks and then only support it appearance. The bush is viable for 70-90 years, but bears fruit in the first 20 years. Therefore, from about this age, you should start replacing old trunks with new growth, cutting off 2-3 trunks every year. Imitating a tree, choose one trunk and form 4-6 skeletal branches at a height of half a meter. Be sure to remove all root growth. The magnificent is achieved minimal costs, which are required by the decorative hazel (hazel) crop. Planting and care, as well as pruning hazelnuts, are simple manipulations that nevertheless bring aesthetic satisfaction and good harvest nuts

In our country, hazel fruits have been eaten for a long time. They went to the forest for nuts, collected, prepared and replanted them walnut trees and bushes closer to the house. Domesticated hazel began to be called. The first mentions of hazelnuts (hazel) are found in the records of the ancient Romans and Greeks. It is believed that they were the first to cultivate this wonderful plant. Scientists believe that hazel was the main plant, the fruits of which saved our ancestors from hunger ten thousand years ago at the end of the Ice Age.

The optimal scheme for planting seedlings is 6 x 6 m or 5 x 5 m; if there is a shortage of space, you can plant 2 x 5 m, 3 x 5 m. It is important to remember that the more space a tree has, the better it grows and bears fruit.

Half a month before planting, prepare a hole half a meter deep and half a meter in diameter, fill it with the mixture:

• Soil (top layer)
• Humus – 2-3 buckets or manure – 5-8 kg
• Superphosphate – 150 grams
• Potassium salt – 50 grams
• Mycorrhiza – 2-3 handfuls to a depth of 15cm.

Place a peg in the center of the hole and place it next to it. Before planting, the hazelnut roots need to be straightened and dipped into a mash solution (a mixture of earth and water). Deepen the level of the root collar by 3 cm, but the neck itself cannot be covered with soil. Trim the seedling after the fifth or sixth bud, leaving about 25 centimeters in height.

Regardless of weather conditions, seedlings must be watered at the rate of 4 buckets of water for each tree and the soil must be mulched with any suitable material(, needles, humus, etc.). After a week, repeat watering.

In summer it is recommended to fertilize with ash. Nitrogen fertilizers reduce the yield of hazelnuts, although they make the bush lush and beautiful, so it is better not to use them when feeding the nut.

To get a good one, it is important to do the formation of the bush correctly. In the first three years, the root system develops better; after this time, increased growth of shoots begins, from which trunks are formed. From the second or third year you need to carry out the bush procedure. Select 5-8 of the strongest shoots from which the crown of the bush will be formed, cut the rest at the root. Only young shoots of hazelnuts are left, and unproductive shoots are removed.

Branches should be trimmed at the base of the bush.

In the 11th year of nut growth, before the leaves begin to bloom, rejuvenate the tree: trim three old trunks and shorten the young ones. Hazelnuts can grow in one place for more than a hundred years. There is no need to cover hazelnuts for the winter; they are quite frost-resistant.

Tree diseases and pests

Hazelnuts are resistant to and, however, for prevention, you can treat the branches with iron sulfate. This should be done in late October and early spring.

Control of pests and tree diseases:

• For hazelnuts, the greatest danger is the cockchafer, whose larvae love to feast on the roots of the tree. If cockchafer larvae are detected in quantities greater than two to 1 square meter The pest must be destroyed before planting.
• The nut weevil can destroy up to 50% of the crop. In the spring, before the beetles appear, add granular 10% Bazudin to the soil at the rate of 2.5 grams per 1 square meter. meter. After the beetles appear, the trees are sprayed with Karbofos 0.06 grams per 1 square meter. Collect and destroy prematurely fallen nuts. In the morning, brush the beetles onto cloths spread on the ground.
• The hazelnut beetle loves to lay eggs under the bark of young shoots; the beetle larvae gnaw out the core of the shoots, as a result of which they dry out. All dried branches need to be 15 cm below the dried area and then burned. In mid-May, spray the plants with 1% Karbofos.

To prevent hazelnuts from becoming infected with diseases and pests, it is necessary to remove and burn fallen leaves in the fall, and then dig up the ground under the bushes of the plant.

This method destroys, it tolerates winter well on fallen leaves, and weevil larvae. In summer, regularly collect and destroy affected fruits. proper care Hazelnuts are practically not susceptible to diseases and pests.

More information can be found in the video.