Do-it-yourself upholstered chair - step-by-step instructions from furniture gurus. Homemade chair for relaxing in the country (drawings, photos) Original do-it-yourself chairs drawings and diagrams

Having a chair in your home helps make your vacation more comfortable and enjoyable, and also gives you a feeling of lightness and calm. There are many options for chairs, they differ in shape and purpose, but they are united by the fact that they all make life comfortable. Let's look at how to make a chair out of wood below.

When starting the process of making a chair, you should decide on the material that will serve as its basis. In this article we will talk about how to build a wooden chair. Therefore, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with its main advantages:

1. Environmental safety.

Wooden furniture has always been distinguished by its naturalness, harmlessness and hypoallergenicity. Therefore, a wooden chair will not cause any discomfort in its use, since the base material is environmentally friendly material.

Wooden chairs photo:

2. Strength and durability.

Wooden furniture is durable, resistant to mechanical stress and has a long service life.

3. Aesthetics and variety of forms.

When choosing a shape for a wooden wooden chair, it is difficult not to get confused in their diversity. In addition, the use of carvings and special paints and varnishes can make the chair more aesthetically pleasing and attractive.

Furniture made from natural wood quite expensive, but if you try to build a chair out of wood with your own hands, you can save three times as much Money than when purchasing it.

DIY wooden chair

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the option of making a wooden lattice chair, which has an inclined seat and is distinguished by its comfort and elegance.

This method of constructing a chair is universal, so it can be used to build furniture such as a table, shelf or stool.

To carry out the work you will need:

timber, section 2.8x2.8 cm;
plywood, consisting of several layers, the thickness of which is 1.8 cm;
stains, paints and varnishes;
threaded bushings;
dowels, screws;
several hairpins;
grinding material;
primer and varnish solutions used when working with wood;
oil paints in black and red colors, which will help the back and legs of the chair contrast brightly with each other.

The tools you will need include:

circular saw desktop type;
drills with drill bits;
miter box;
plane;
pliers;
screwdrivers;
sponges and paint brushes.

Select a timber, the main requirement for it being the cross-sectional size, it must correspond to 2.8 cm. Pre-prepared workpieces must be perfectly even and smooth. Before work, check them for cracks and roughness.

Drawings of a wooden chair:

In accordance with the drawings, the timber is cut into several planks, the length of each of them is 55 cm. To assemble the back and side walls Thirty-six slats are required. In addition, it is necessary to have supporting bars installed in the seat area.

Secure the timber with stops and cut it using a wood saw.

The end sections of each bar should be marked, and then holes with a diameter of 0.8 mm are drilled on them. The interval between the center and end point of the block is 2.5 cm. Using a drill stand, carefully measure and mark out the parts before drilling them.

In order for the chair to be presentable appearance and complied with all safety standards and regulations, the end sections are processed using sandpaper, and the edges are chamfered.

To round the longitudinal edges, use a plane, and then sandpaper, which will help remove all irregularities and polish the surface. To separate one plank of a chair from another, parts called “checkers” are used. To make them you will need to cut out wooden elements square shape, size 2.8x2.8 cm. It is necessary to chamfer the edges of the checkers and drill through holes. These holes must coincide with the slots on the strips for their harmonious connection. Two “checkers” are glued to each plank on both sides. One pin, constructed from trimmings, is inserted into each hole. The edges of the workpieces are glued together and leveled using a lath. Using clamps, tighten all the parts together and leave until completely dry.

Stain will help keep the wood in its original form for many years. To process parts, they should be hung on a pre-prepared block with nails or pins. Place all the blanks on the nails and apply stain using a sponge. Excess stain should be removed with a brush.

After the stain has completely dried, proceed to the next process, which includes zeroing and coating the parts paint and varnish materials. To dry the parts, prepare a special unit consisting of a board on which dowels are glued.

The next stage involves making the back and seat of the wooden chair. To do this you will need a small sheet of plywood from which the blank is cut the right size. They are connected to each other using screws; in addition, holes should be provided for dowels, which will provide additional strength to the chair. This design is painted red oil paint and waits for complete drying.

In parts that were made of timber, holes with a diameter of 0.8 cm should be drilled in such a way as to ensure unhindered passage of studs through them. Connect all the parts together using studs and threaded bushings. In order to screw the seat, drill several holes in the supporting part of the structure. From the bottom of the chair, screw the seat to the chair body.

This chair will delight all residents and guests of the house with its brightness, beauty and comfort.

Making a wooden garden chair: instructions and recommendations

The most harmonious among flowering plants A wooden chair will look great in the garden. But, before you start making it, we suggest you familiarize yourself with general recommendations that will help you do this:

1. The first requirement for a garden chair is its transportability. This piece of furniture should not be bulky and easily transportable from place to place in case of bad weather.

2. When choosing the type of wood, it is better to choose oak, beech or walnut. In addition to these options, it is possible to use pine, aspen, cedar, and larch. This type of wood is the most durable and resistant to mechanical stress and moisture.

3. Since the chair is outdoors, it is exposed to sun rays, moisture and precipitation, therefore it is recommended to take measures to protect wood from external irritants.

4. Before using the boards, they should be folded and placed in a room with a canopy, under the influence of the wind they will dry and become stronger. After this, they will undergo the process of grinding, impregnation with antiseptics and drying oil solution. Next comes drying the boards and covering them with paints and varnishes.

5. The number of knots on a tree affects the relief of its texture. In addition, to make the chair look like natural wood, it is better to coat it with colorless varnish.

6. When assembling a garden chair, try to ensure that the fasteners are well recessed into the wood. Otherwise, there may be snags on your clothing.

Preparatory work includes working with wood, drying it and covering it with a variety of materials. For work, use boards 2 cm thick.

In production garden chair you will need:

two rear legs, the size of which is 21x255x788 mm;
two front legs, measuring 21x76x534 mm;
support armrest, size 21x128x407 mm;
the back of the chair in the form of a backrest, measuring 21x280x915 mm;
jumpers - 21x52x590 mm;
rear support part of the armrest - 21x78x611 mm;
two strips for insertion - 13x21x255 mm.

As Supplies required presence:

solid wood dowels - 2.4x6 cm - 20 pieces;
20 pieces of brass screws, size 0.45x0.5 cm;
20 pieces of brass screws 0.45x0.32 cm;
sandpaper for sanding;
polyurethane based glue;
drying oils and varnish for furniture;
cardboard material;
masking tape.

To carry out construction work garden table, as tools, you will need:

circular saw;
manual milling machine;
electric plane;
hacksaws;
electric drills;
screwdriver;
grinders;
roulette;
level;
pencil.

Wooden garden chair, drawing:

Use wide gauge panels for the back legs, backrest, armrest and seating area. To obtain them, you need to select boards that are similar in color and texture and pre-glue them.

In order to build the rear legs, use a pre-prepared stencil according to which they will be cut. Attach it to the board, make a drawing on the wood using a pencil and connect the two blanks with tape, so you can make two parts at once. Please note that it is better to make a pattern a few millimeters larger than the drawing, so that you can then use a plane or router to adjust the part to the required size.

The procedure for constructing the back includes sawing a pre-prepared blank from glued boards. Then you need to bevel the lower part of the back by twelve and a half degrees, so that it harmoniously connects with the rear legs. And the upper part of the back is rounded with a radius of 0.9 cm. Next, assemble the product, while adjusting the parts to the nearest millimeter.

Attach the back legs of the chair to the back using screws and wood glue, taking care to drill the holes first. By using corner connection fasten the side parts and legs together.

Plug-in strips will help close the resulting gaps. Use screws to secure the inserts. Please note that the reliability of the chair directly depends on the quality of the connection of all parts. The boards should be directed in opposite directions from the legs. In accordance with the outside of the drawing, saw the boards of the connected parts. Untreated areas are not cleared.

A groove should be selected at the back of the workpiece, with the seat positioned at an angle to the back to ensure a tight joint.

Start cutting out the front legs, bevelling the tops at a six-degree angle. Attach the front legs to the chair structure using screws and glue.

A garden chair must be particularly reliable, so it is recommended to use an additional jumper in the form of a leg, which increases the strength of the chair. To cut out the jumper, first measure its location and cut out the part of the required size.

Now start cutting out the wedge-shaped armrest supports, which are fixed on the front legs and make the chair more comfortable to use. When all the parts are assembled, you should begin the final sanding of the chair. After completing the process, the surface should remain smooth. If desired, paint the chair in the desired color or coat it with a clear varnish, which will help preserve the texture of the wood.

DIY rocking chair for two

To make such a chair you will need a minimum set of tools, which consists of:

jigsaw;
disc sander;
screwdriver;
several drills for working with wood;
bit for working with a screwdriver;
paint brush;
roulette;
pencil;
building level.

This chair model is quite simple. The shape of the chair resembles an arc, which consists of two side parts fastened together big amount boards

Pay attention to the material used to make this chair, since its dimensions are quite large, it will be located directly in the yard or garden, which means the materials must be of high quality. Euro plywood is used in the process of making the side parts of the rocking chair. Its thickness should be 3 cm. From of this material it is necessary to cut out two side parts, consisting of three drawers. Marking is done using a pattern, pencil and tape measure.

Scheme for making a rocking chair:

When transferring the template to the workpiece, it is possible to make the smallest errors. The main condition for the correct functioning of the chair is the identical cutting of the two side parts.

Next, you will need a block measuring 5x2.5 cm. Using a jigsaw, cut off thirty-five equal boards, 1.2 m long, from it. In principle, the length depends on the desired length of the chair, so it is subject to adjustment. It is recommended to use the following fastening elements:

confirmations 0.5x12 cm - about 15 pieces;
wood screws 0.4x4.5 cm - 150 pieces.

The first work process after cutting out the parts is sanding them. Carry out this procedure, if available good tool and the skills to work with it are not difficult. But please note that the end sections should be given Special attention.

The next step is to process the material using stain and varnish. It is better to apply the solutions in two layers, waiting for each of them to dry completely. To avoid moisture absorption, treat wooden parts with hot drying oil.

The final process is assembling the rocking chair. Three drawers are located in the upper, central and lower parts of the chair. They are attached using confirmations. Make sure the connections are strong, as the longevity of the chair depends on them.

To drill holes for fasteners in areas of the chair that form its immediate surface, it is recommended to use a jig. This device will help make this job easier and make all the holes identical. Otherwise, do this job manually.

Use a special putty that will help hide the holes from the screws. If there are cracks or defects, putty will help get rid of them. Now all that remains is the process of painting the chair or coating it with varnish. A few pillows will decorate this piece of furniture and help make it more colorful and comfortable.

How to make a chair with your own hands.

There is no doubt - you can buy anything now. Just show your imagination, and they will offer you a lot - both in stores and on the Internet. But sometimes finances don’t allow it, sometimes it’s easier to use scrap materials (at the dacha, for example), and sometimes you’re just itching to do the hunt yourself. It is for such cases that this collection was created.

Let's see how you can make frameless furniture with your own hands, namely a bean bag chair.
The budget for one chair is 40 American rubles.

This is a filler - polystyrene balls

Cut the fabric - (1.4 * 2.5) for the cover for the filling and the same amount for the cover of the chair.

Stitched inner cover for filling.

Already with filler inside.

First try.

The outer cover is already sewn. Ready. The most difficult thing was to collect all the balls because the static voltage scatters them everywhere... I collected them with a vacuum cleaner.
Here's the pattern if anyone needs it:

I didn’t photograph the entire work process in detail (there’s never time for that)), but here are the main stages. I wanted to make exactly the chair. Stable and strong. I imagined how several children would jump along it at once (and I was right))).

So, first, such a “sandwich” was made in the shape of a semicircle: chipboard - between them there are bars - chipboard. The result is a base about 10 cm thick. This is so that the walls can be secured. For the same purpose, vertical racks. Front wall - plywood; the back is hardboard (it bends so well))). I first drew the curve of the back by eye on the remains of the wallpaper; the back is slightly higher at the back. Base on 4 legs made from old Pauline wooden cubes. Polina fell in love with the chair already at this stage)) Here you can see that I started gluing the cardboard, filling inner space armchairs. Not all layers are solid, most are just glued pieces, there are gaps here and there between them, this does not matter. First I glued it on PVA. But she soon abandoned it, because... The cardboard swells like a wet wafer and becomes deformed, so I had to put a weight on top and wait for it to dry... It was long and inconvenient, so after several layers I switched to wood glue. Great item in every way.

The photo shows how the walls turned out. As I worked and at the end, I leveled them with a knife. Everything is so easy to cut))

Next is foam rubber + Moment Gel glue.
And a cover. (This was the best part)) Done.
The chair turned out to be very heavy. But I consider this a plus - at least it won’t roll over)) And of course the fabric…. These are just some leftovers that were found at home. The fabric on the armrests, although covered with non-woven fabric, cannot count on long life. But we wanted temporary furniture that we wouldn’t mind throwing away. (In fact, it turned out to be a pity to throw it away... The kids tore the fabric on both the armrests and the pillow, well... my fault - I really wanted to use this particular fabric. But it’s a pity to throw it away - the chair itself is simply indestructible!)

Well, now what was promised

This is what gives the product rigidity - these ribs

we continue to make the back, here we use three-layer cardboard, usually such cardboard is boxes from refrigerators or cigarettes (such boxes are huge 1.20 m by 80 cm in height), even 5-layer cardboard comes from cigarettes, On my chair, the bottom and top shelf, by the way, were made of such cardboard; it’s width is 3-3.5 cm somewhere.)

but the bends are covered with thinner cardboard than usual cardboard boxes. We are assembling the chair, by the way, I glued my chair together glue gun and some other wood glue, I don’t remember, it was a long time ago.
We finish the sides, well, it’s almost ready, all that’s left is to paint.

Plastic bottles are an excellent material for creativity and improvised means to solve many problems. Whatever they make of them. And a variety of boxes, scoops, buckets, brooches, and curtains. They are laid instead of pipes in dachas, they are used to decorate flower beds, etc. My son and I decided to make an armchair, since it seemed to us that there was clearly not enough such furniture in the decor of our room. We now understand that we got a little carried away, not taking into account the modest dimensions of our room, but five months ago we began to enthusiastically collect plastic bottles.

As we accumulated them, we cut them accordingly and put them into “blocks” of two pieces. It looked like this: they cut off the neck of one bottle and, turning it over, installed it in the lower part. Then the second bottle was sent neck to neck.

The result was these blanks for the future chair, which are much more compact and convenient to store than the bottles themselves.

In total, our chair needed about ninety two-liter plastic bottles. Along the way, we stocked up on tape and stretch film.
When we had enough blocks, we started assembling. It will not be possible to clearly demonstrate this process, since at the time of writing the material the chair was already assembled, but I will try to simply tell you. Moreover, there is nothing complicated about it, and your imagination can tell you completely different, more interesting forms.
For the seat, we first prepared, based on the existing ones, larger blocks, tightly wrapping each four “bottles” out of sixteen with tape. Then, using the same tape, we combined the resulting four enlarged blocks into one.
Next came the turn of the “sides” and the back. They are made from the same single modules, only higher - not from two, but from three and five bottles. The extension scheme is quite simple. We cut off the bottom from the top bottle and install it inside, as we did with the neck before. After this, we again place the next bottle upside down. And so on…
By the way, when testing the seat for strength, we discovered that the blocks inside were diverging. It was this moment that gave us the idea of stretch film. However, I think that in this case it was possible to get by with tape. But we had the film, and therefore we swaddled the base blocks with it.
We carefully taped the finished sides and back to the seat and, unable to resist the temptation, completely covered the resulting structure with stretch film. And this is what we got in the end.

This is the basis, so to speak. The chair, of course, is a bit hard and needs improvement. You can “upholster” it and sew a cover on it. My chair is currently covered with a blanket and is waiting to be moved to the country, but my son and I are thinking about a bar counter made of plastic bottles for the kitchen. And what? It may very well be

We will dance from the stove, that is, from the foam rubber, which in this case is our basis. It’s better to draw on paper, but I’ll show you on foam rubber for clarity.

Here is a piece 50cm by 50cm. Divide it in half cross by cross. 10 cm indentation for backrest tilt.
Cut it out like this. You can cut it smoothly with a regular knife (sharp).

My radius is 6.5cm. In general, you need to find something round with a diameter of 13 cm. And applying it to outline an arc.
Using a knife, cut it exactly as shown in the picture. And we trim the rest with scissors. It turns out a little rough, but nothing. The rest will be smoothed out by the batting. We got the following details.

We glue them in a row. I apply the glue with a spray bottle. At home, of course, this is a problem. Using a brush is bad, a lot of glue will be wasted, and there will be seals from greasy strokes when it dries. I think a short-haired roller is the best best option will be here.
Here are the locations for future seams. They need to be drawn on the foam rubber immediately and the approximate size of the blanks should be measured from them.

You need to make a slot of about 4cm in the connection between the back and seat. For retraction.
Like this. Velcro will be tucked into the cut when putting on the cover, so we glue half of it inside
Here's a set of cuts. It makes no sense for me to indicate the dimensions that turned out. They will be a little different for everyone. It is important to show the principle.

Parts A and B are the side panels. They are larger than the foam rubber pattern by 8mm along the contour. Our seam will be 10mm, + will give the thickness of the batting. This is so that the cover is tight, not loose. C - seat, D - back. Strip E is a retractor that we will insert into the cut with Velcro sewn onto it. F and G - back. G is wider because it is sewn with release and covers the zipper.
Here is a diagram of how to sew the back. (I’ll try to draw it more correctly later). The seams are red and blue (so as not to merge. I couldn’t immediately determine the dimensions of parts F and G, so I cut out the parts with some margin, wrote down the size and trimmed them in place. First, after completing the knot with the zipper, I cut off the excess to fit the width, then subtracted from the cut strips I already wrote down the size for the next cut from the original blank, but if you succeed, the same parsley was made in length, then trimmed when it was almost sewn.
Retraction unit. (below) Everything is clear here.
The width of parts C and D is 8mm larger at the edges than the width of the foam rubber. I sew at 10mm. When sewing, it is advisable to pin the cut with pins, having previously placed marks on the locations of the transverse seams. Especially if the car is not non-stop. The contour is large - the error accumulates.
The cover is put on starting from filling the retractor. Turn it inside out, pressing down the foam. It’s easier to do it with two people, it’s not convenient for one person.

Sitting comfortably in this chair, you can safely say that you are sitting in your own library. Indeed, such a chair is a mobile mini-library and is an ideal furniture option for book lovers. Is not it, great idea combine the chair and bookshelf into a single furniture module! There are shelves for storing books and a place for reading them at the same time.
There are enough shelves to accommodate a large number of books and magazines. Such furniture - perfect option For small rooms. But you are unlikely to buy such a mini-library chair anywhere, but you can make it yourself if you use the advice of the German magazine Selber Machen. It is recommended to make all the parts of the chair from 16 mm MDF board. Instead of MDF board, multilayer plywood is quite suitable for this purpose. The dimensions of all parts of the chair are shown in the figure.

Before assembling the parts, I sand the parts. Particular care should be taken to process the edges in the cutting areas. Then all surfaces of the parts should be covered with two layers of furniture enamel. The color can be chosen independently and optionally, as shown in the picture, in dark colors.
The sequence of assembling the chair is shown in the figure.

For the seat, armrests and interior lining you will need foam rubber and furniture upholstery fabric. The color of the fabric should be in harmony with the color of the enamel used to paint the chair.

Chair - bed (without frame)
To make 1 bed chair, you will need 2 sheets of foam rubber 10 cm wide, size 100 cm by 200 cm. Furniture fabric - 3 meters, 7 locks - zippers of 80 cm each, reinforced threads, a little PVA glue to glue the foam rubber between layers. Sewing machine, the ability to stitch, the desire to create. If you sew 3 chairs, it takes 5 sheets of foam rubber.

The chair consists of 4 parts
Cutting foam rubber into blanks
. square 80cm x 80cm - 2 pcs
. rectangle 80cm x 60cm - 2 pcs
. rectangle 80cm x 20cm - 2 pcs
. rectangle 80cm x 30cm - 2 pcs (see photo pink)

We glue 2 layers of 10 cm foam rubber of each part together. All parts become 20 cm high.
Then we cut it out furniture fabric on the same principle as foam rubber (given without seam allowances).
The seams are 1-1.5 cm.
1 piece
1.1. square 80cm x 80cm - 2 pcs
1.2. rectangle 20 cm x 160 cm - 3 pcs
We fold two parts 1.3 in half and sew the locks towards each other.

The result is a prefabricated part 20 cm x 160 cm. We sew together sides a) and b) and, using the suitcase principle, we assemble a square. Don’t forget to sew the handles down to make it easier to carry the chair, just don’t rush to insert the foam. It must be inserted when the entire cover is sewn and assembled completely. Using the same principle, we cut and sew parts 2,3,4.
An important fact: initially, consider the principle by which you will connect the parts to each other, so that there are no problems later. For those who know how to sew, I suggest a sewn-in option, that is, when connecting part 1.1 with part 1.2

On both sides inner part embed a double strip of fabric across almost the entire width of the chair, less is possible.
The smaller the gap, the tighter the parts will then be assembled into the chair.
Or you can stitch a double stripe at the top, as shown in the photo

When all 4 parts of the chair are sewn, just look carefully at the principle and joints in the photo.

We sew the 2nd part of the chair
2.1. rectangle 80cm x 60cm - 2 pcs
2.2 rectangle 20 cm x 120 cm - 1 piece
2.3. rectangle 20 cm x 160 cm - 2 pcs
3 chair detail
rectangle 80(+6cm bend under the lock)cm x 60cm - 1 piece
square 20cm x 20 c m - 4 pcs
The locks for this part can be cut to suit your needs. I didn’t sew two locks into one chair and sewed one - 80 cm, but then, when I inserted the foam rubber, there was a big problem, even broke the lock and tore the side of the part a little. To avoid such problems, do not complicate life, sew in two locks. Try to keep the locks as close to each other as possible at the “meeting” junction.
4 chair detail
note! - before inserting this part in a case, I covered it with a thin layer of foam rubber and silk lining material (not necessarily new) just 80 cm wide and sewn by hand. Since on this part the lock is sewn only on the bottom with a width of 80 cm and it is very difficult to insert, and when covered with silk the foam rubber “slips” inside.
rectangle 20cm x 30cm - 2 pcs
rectangle 20cm x 80cm - 2 pcs
rectangle 80cm x 78cm - 1 piece

4 The armchair part can be sewn separately for the “Sofa-corner”

lay out and sleep.

And when 3 chairs are sewn, fantasize:

There is an assumption that in the future the foam rubber on the front of the seats may sag, I think this can be fixed: you can turn the foam rubber in the other direction, or you can add thin layers of foam rubber.
Time will show. I wish you success, add your imagination. Use your material capabilities and then you can use furniture fabric “more coolly”: Leather, fur, combining smooth with checkered fabric, etc.
When sewing parts for internal seams, I used an overlog, but it can be processed with piping. This will add rigidity. Look how this is done on many bags and school bags.

And now quite necessary information for craftsmen who make furniture with their own hands is the ergonomics of the chair. Everyone has long known that making homemade products, including furniture, is not at all difficult. It is important that it is comfortable to use. This is where the science of ergonomics comes in handy.

Ergonomic dimensions of the chair.
Chair size chart developed by the Swedish Furniture Institute.
Letter Description Size
A
Seat height to edge 45 cm
B
Seat height 3 cm less A
C
Seat tilt 3 cm
D
Seat depth 42 cm
E
Seat width min. 40 cm
G
Back to edge max. 42 (28-33) cm
H
Back to bottom edge 13 (18) cm
I
Back height min 15 cm
J
Backrest tilt 18′
K
Projection point 18 cm
O
Distance between armrests 48 cm
P
Armrest height 23 cm
Q
Armrest length 30 cm
R
Armrest width min. 5 cm
T
Distance between edge and armrest min. 10 cm
U
Free space under seat max. 60′
X
Seat-back angle 103′

The chair is good place both for work and for leisure. Before you make a chair with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with its models, since there are a large number of chairs. For some models of armchairs, willow or rattan is needed, since, being presented in other materials, they lose their charm. This piece of furniture can also be made of metal - forged rocking chairs look like jewelry in the interior.

Chair drawing.

DIY chair - wooden chair

Solid wood furniture is a symbol of solidity and reliability, even if it is lattice models. It doesn’t take much time to make a chair from timber, and it can last without needing restoration. long years. To make it you will need:

medium thickness timber;
plywood;
wood glue;
primer;
stain;
furniture dowel;
self-tapping screws;
sandpaper 3 types;
Bulgarian;
screwdriver;
hand drill;
plane;
clamps;
sponge or foam rubber;
brushes;
pencil or marker;
square;
dye.

Tools for making a chair.

Beam thickness of great importance does not have it, but when purchasing you need to pay attention to a single section, which simplifies the work and shows the quality of the workpiece.

Ideally, all workpieces should be of the same thickness and with good linearity.

If one of the parts is twisted, this will greatly affect the integrity of the product; it may warp or crack during operation.

How to make a chair - the manufacturing process

The timber is sawn into required number cross bars and supporting additional seat cross bars. The presence of a circular saw allows you to work well and quickly. The edges of the resulting bars are marked and drilled at the same distance through holes. The distance from these future fastenings to the edge of the block must be at least 25 mm, otherwise a chair made with your own hands will not be strong enough. A drill stand will help you maintain exactly all the parameters for many holes, on which you can set parameters such as the perpendicularity of the holes, their sizes and distances.

Before making a chair, one more safety concern is required - to treat the ends and surface of the slats to prevent the appearance of splinters during operation.

In this case, all existing ribs are rounded using a grinder or plane. When the longitudinal slats are ready, the remains of the timber are divided into squares using a circular saw, which will be used to separate the slats from each other in the structure.

Garden chair assembly diagram.

Holes are also drilled in them, coinciding with those already existing on the finished bars; they need to be sanded and the ribs smoothed. Each master will determine the number of long bars and squares for himself, based on the size of the chair and the thickness of the bar.

Dowel fastenings are inserted into the holes, a few drops of glue are added, after which each block on both sides is connected to a pair of cubes. The workpieces are aligned along the edges by attaching a lath, then left to dry, tightened with clamps. After drying, the wood is treated with stain. You can thread a rope through the holes on the parts and hang the painted parts to dry. Varnishing occurs in the same way.

To make a chair with your own hands, the back and seat for the chair are cut out of plywood. They are screwed together using a pair of screws on the right and left. Dowels can add additional strength if you drill holes for them and glue them first before use. All parts are painted in the desired color and, after drying, varnished. All that remains is to complete the final assembly of the body using bushings and screw the seat. This unusually shaped, bright and eye-catching chair complements the interior well.

DIY easy garden chair

Not everyone likes it plastic chairs, which are now widely used to decorate recreation areas in the country or in the garden. Light garden chairs made of wood look more appropriate on the site, and their production does not take much time. Before making a chair, you need to take into account that its design should be light and comfortable; it is best to prefer a folding chair. This will allow you to quickly move the furniture under the roof in case of rain, because even well-treated wood should not be exposed to moisture.

Connection diagram for chair legs.

The wood to make a chair must be chosen from hardwoods such as beech, walnut or oak. Pine, cedar, larch or aspen are also less susceptible to rotting, but pine is not resistant to mechanical stress and large dents remain on the surface. The boards should be well dried or dried under a canopy before starting work. The following materials and tools will be needed:

Circular Saw;
milling cutter;
hacksaw;
plane;
screwdriver;
drill;
clamps;
sander;
roulette;
square;
pencil;
sandpaper;
screws or self-tapping screws;
wood glue;
drying oil or furniture varnish;
stain.

Preparation and assembly of parts

A garden chair will require two back legs and two front legs, with the back legs being longer. You need to cut out 2 supports for the armrests, a backrest and a jumper. For the rear pair of legs, armrests, backrest and seat, boards selected in color and texture are glued together until the desired width is obtained. To properly glue the wood, grooves for dowels are selected at the ends. Paired parts can be cut simultaneously by holding two boards together with clamps.

Drawing of a rocking chair.

The parts are then adjusted to size using a router or plane. When cutting out the back, the glue seam, if present, should be placed in the middle of the part. The upper edge is rounded, and after that you can begin assembling the garden chair, adjusting other elements as needed.

The rear legs are attached to the back with screws and reinforced with glue. To prevent the workpieces from cracking during assembly, holes for fastenings can be drilled in advance. The strength of the assembled seat will depend on the correct placement of the boards on it. They should lie in the direction from one leg to the other. The front legs are also screwed onto screws or self-tapping screws, reinforced with glue.

The reliability and stability of the chair is given by the leg - a jumper located between the front legs. They attach it in the same way as everything else, using glue and screws. Then the armrests and the support for them running behind the back of the chair are attached.

The heads of all screws used for fastening should be sunk flush with the surface, and then closed with special plugs. Wood finished chair soaked in hot drying oil or stain, dried, and varnished in several layers. You can opt for a special furniture varnish, but the most durable coating is found in parquet or yacht varieties.

Design for rocking chair

This chair can be used both in the garden and at home. By expanding the seat, it is possible to make not a chair, but a whole bench that can accommodate several people. For production you will need:

Chair seat assembly diagram.

electric jigsaw;
sander;
wood drills of different diameters;
screwdriver;
square;
roulette;
pencil;
plywood;
self-tapping screws;
confirmations;
slats.

If the rocking chair is made by hand from start to finish, it is better to use high-quality materials so as not to spoil the work.

Making a rocking chair

The sides of the chair with a rounded bottom are cut out according to the developed pattern first. They must be completely identical, and there should be no protruding corners on their lower part. Then the timber for the seat and back is cut, the quantity and length of which must be calculated separately for each model. The surface of each block is sanded and polished, and the corners are smoothed. If you plan to use the chair outdoors, the ends of the boards need to be given special attention. They are varnished at least 3 times, since it is there that the wood is especially loose and needs protection from atmospheric influences. To protect the street and garden furniture, the ends are impregnated several times with hot drying oil, and the fibers are flattened with a hammer.

The sidewalls are pulled together to the required size using several drawbars, drilling through the sidewalls. Then holes are drilled at the ends for fastening the bars. The bars themselves are also drilled in advance to avoid cracks during operation. It is more convenient to fasten the bars not between the sidewalls, but on top, slightly going beyond the contour. This rocking chair has more space and looks neater. Each screw should then be coated with an antiseptic and a plug placed on top. After this it is done finishing products with waterproof types of varnish, with each layer drying for at least 12 hours. Place at least 3 layers, coat with a thick layer, trying not to leave gaps. Only after this can the rocking chair be considered ready.

Using a chair-bed instead of full-fledged separate items furniture relevant for small spaces. A successful combination of seating and sleeping space allows you to ergonomically organize the space of the room.

Search for space arrangement options small apartment often leads to the idea of buying a folding chair.

Buying such an item may not be profitable. But you can make furniture yourself if you have the skill. How to make a chair bed , many people know who equip their apartments and houses with handmade items.

Advantages of self-production furniture - a bunch of. First, the basics, which are used, can be found at home or in the country, and can also be bought in specialized stores at a price incomparably lower than the finished item.

Blanks made of wood or its derivatives, filler and fabric - this is what you will need, in addition to various types fastenings.

To make a chair bed with your own hands , you will spend 2-3 times less money. In addition, you can choose your own design designs , coating material and color scheme.

All this allows you to create an original model that is convenient for your home.

Deciding on design and construction

Chair-beds are divided into two main types:

Frame;
Frameless.

Intraspecific differences furniture vary based on the choice of shapes and transformation mechanism.

Traditional materials make it a reliable support for many years.

It is more difficult to make a frame model. Furniture with a rigid base is complemented by a layout mechanism, which must be done correctly so that the “liner” can be easily removed and straightened without distortion. A design with two folding legs is easier to make than one with four.

You can choose either a wooden or metal base for the supports.

Determine this or that suitable design necessary not only based on the complexity of the creation, but also on its style, safety and convenience for relaxation. For folding chair you can choose theselike chipboard, plywood, textile of a certain density, foam rubber for upholstery, if a frame option is envisaged.

This furniture is compact and ergonomic, its dimensions are noticeably smaller than a standard bed, but it is not inferior to it in terms of relaxation comfort.

A product without a rigid base can have a streamlined shape, and it is also lighter in weight.

Whatever designs you choose, they must be durable and safe.

Don’t forget about comfort - the body should be comfortable during sleep or daytime rest.Remember that the base must be wide enough - at least 60 cm, otherwise the sleeper will not be able to turn around on the bed.

Today there are many varieties of this furniture. All of them find their place in the interior of the apartment.

Necessary materials

To make a frame model you will need the following:

chipboard;
Fiberboard;
Wooden blocks;
Plywood;
Foam rubber;
Self-tapping screws;
Loops;
PVA glue;
Sandpaper;
Upholstery fabric.

We will make a simple but convenient thing in everyday life that will be strong and reliable to withstand any unexpected guest.

In creating the design Others can also be used. For upholstery it is better to choose a special one textile , characterized by density and easy to clean.

For frameless furniture are used:

Material for covers;
Foam rubber;
Strong threads.

For upholstery you will need high-quality foam rubber.

Required Tools

So that the intended subject furniture to do it correctly and firmly, you will need:

Long ruler or tape measure;
Simple pencil;
Staples and construction stapler;
Scissors;
Hacksaw;
Screwdriver;
Sewing machine (for making a frameless chair).

Tools for work.

If in design decor is provided (for example, in the form of appliqués), then a stencil cut from a thick file folder will be useful.

Manufacturing process: step-by-step instructions

Before starting work, it is imperative to complete a drawing of the product, where the exact dimensions will be indicated and parts of the model will be drawn in detail.

Product drawing.

For the manufacture of folding chair frame type you will need a lot of space. Choose a spacious room.

First we make the body:

Then we start creating the folding part. Make 2 frames from beams the width and length of the seat. Attach sheets of plywood to them.

Connect the frames using long loops.

To ensure that the chair reclines level, use metal mechanism transformation - attach steel contours with through loops to the sides.

The main thing is how to make a chair bed yourself, so that the parts folded together form a beautiful and even square.

This cute chair bed that we made with our own hands can be painted, varnished, or upholstered with foam rubber and stylish, beautiful fabric.

The next step will be plating:

Glue pieces of foam rubber cut to size, 2-3 cm high, to the top of the frame.
Place the fabric evenly and use a stapler to attach it to the beams at the bottom.
The sides can also be upholstered using a thin layer of foam rubber.

For a folding structure you will need legs.

They are made in the middle and front part of the frame, level with the bottom point of the bottom or slightly higher. For armrests, use wide bars sanded with sandpaper.

The seat easily unfolds without clinging to the sides, and just as quickly turns into a chair.

The frameless model is much easier to manufacture. It requires foam rubber, which can be used in 2-3 layers, and thick fabric like a “raincoat” (or less slippery). The cut material is sewn on several sides. the remaining opening is intended to be placed inside the foam.

In order to prepare the chair-bed for sleeping, you should unfasten the straps, then pull the top pillow towards you.

Equip the unsewn section with a zipper. For more practical use of the frameless sample, make an outer case.

Since it does not have a rigid base, the backrest should be placed against the wall

Decorating a chair-bed

In order to give finished product stylish and original look, use your imagination.

The design of the created item can be improved through the use of interesting prints and appliqués.

Tapestries look good from the fabrics used for decoration. If you want to make the upholstery softer to the touch, choosewith a pile like artificial velvet.

This material is also more durable and durable.

It is better to sew appliqués before the upholstery process. To keep them neat, prepare stencils and scraps in advance different color, matched to or contrasting with the main range.

For a frame-type folding chair, the front legs, which not all models retract inside, can be made carved or metal.

To prevent the surface from collecting dust and rubbing, use a cape or sew a special cover. Carpeting of the appropriate size will also work, and artificial fur– this will make sitting in the chair more comfortable and cozy. Another option is to sew replaceable covers from lightweight fabric.

This will make caring for the upholstery easier.

VIDEO: DIY chair bed.

In this article we will consider the topic of making classic furniture for almost all apartments and houses - a do-it-yourself chair. This solid wood chair with armrests will not be bulky and best use such products are tableware. Following these instructions, you can make it at home.

The production of the chair will take place in several stages. All of them will be presented below and you can easily make it in a few evenings if you have the tools and materials, because all the schemes will be presented below. There will be no ready-made drawings in this article, since everything is done from improvised means: from boards, plywood bars, which are available.

Frame

Let's call this stage the chair frame.

Of course, almost the entire skeleton will be covered with foam rubber and fabric. Only part of the legs will remain visible.

The back legs are the most important parts of a wooden chair because you need to make them at some angle.

Without thinking for a long time, to make the back part of the chair structure, we took an ordinary dining chair that was available, although it did not have a seat. But he was well suited for the role of template. You can take some old grandma's chair.

Markings were made on a 50x150 board.

Be sure to mark the level of the seat of the chair, make it the same as for the chair. In this case it was approximately 410 mm from the floor.

Use a jigsaw to cut out the legs of a homemade fireplace chair.

Then we used the finished part as a template to make three more legs, because we are making two chairs at once with our own hands from scrap materials.

The front legs will be straight and square - 55x55 mm. To obtain such a cross-section, you can glue the boards together, and then saw them down to required size. We glued 2 pairs of 2 boards, 120 mm wide and 30 mm thick.

There is no glue between boards 2 and 3

Note. A chair with a solid structure is called a frame chair.

While the front legs were drying, we finished assembling the back frame - we made the upper part, the upper part of which has a slight rounding. Then we made the rear crossbar of the seat support.