Step-by-step instructions for assembling a wardrobe with your own hands. How to assemble the “Basya” sliding wardrobe yourself? How to assemble a 3 door wardrobe instructions

A sliding wardrobe is one of the most convenient and compact ways to store things. It has small shelves for light items of clothing, and large ones for bulkier items, there are compartments for storing skis, a compartment equipped with a rod for placing outerwear, etc.

The compactness of the closet is made possible by sliding doors, which do not require space to swing open; they move on special rollers located inside the structure of the door itself. Even an inexperienced person can assemble such a cabinet. similar issues person, since the assembly principle is quite simple and does not require the use of special tools.

Read the instructions and sort the parts

First, you need to carefully read the instructions and understand the individual parts - find the lower and upper elements, side posts, internal partitions.

If you mix up even one part, you are guaranteed to have to disassemble the newly assembled structure and reassemble everything again. Therefore, it is so important at the initial stage to correctly determine the location of all parts of the cabinet.

Assembling the frame

First we install the base (bottom element).

As a rule, this plate is attached to stands located along the long side using confirmations (these are so-called Euroscrews that have a recess in the head for a special hex key).

Installing internal partitions

At the lower end of the partitions there are holes into which dowels must be inserted before installation.

A dowel (chopik) is a small piece of a round rod that serves to strengthen wooden joints.

There are blind holes in the bottom plate, which are intended for such dowels. Having aligned the dowels and holes, we install the vertical partitions in their place (an assistant will be needed here).

We fix the shelves

Now, in order to prevent the structure from becoming loose, we install shelves, which in this case act as stiffeners.

We secure them with confirmations.

At this stage, fasteners must be screwed in completely, leaving no free play.

We install the side racks and the top cover

Now the final part of assembling the frame is the installation of the side posts and the top cover. All three elements must be installed simultaneously.

Although this action depends on design features and the location of fastening points on these parts. First, we install the sidewalls, fastening them at the bottom with the base with confirmations.

Then we put the lid on top, align the holes in all the parts and also tighten the fasteners. Here you need to leave a little free play, since you will need to level the entire frame.

Aligning the structure

The alignment process consists of the following steps. It is necessary to use a tape measure to first measure one diagonal, then the second and, based on the difference in values, determine in which direction you need to “press” (move) the top of the cabinet so that its corners are perfectly straight.

Now you can wrap the confirmations to the end with force.

We nail chipboard sheets

The next assembly step is to nail the fiberboard sheets to the back of the cabinet.

These sheets will not only serve as a back wall, but will also reliably keep the structure from loosening throughout the entire period of operation.

As a rule, the canvases have a decorative treatment on the front side in the form of a laminated colored surface. The sheets are fastened using small nails, which must be driven into the ends of all cabinet elements (racks, partitions, shelves).

Here it is important to guess the place of nailing, because the cabinet parts are not visible from the back side, and damage resulting from wrong choice, negatively affect the appearance of the product.

We place the rails - guides

Now the most crucial moment is the installation of the lower and upper rails for the doors. The bottom rail has two grooves for the movement of rollers:

And the top is divided into two sections:

In both, you must first drill holes for screws to attach them to the base and cover.

The holes must be chamfered to allow the screw to be screwed in flush.

It is enough to make 4 holes in each plank. We fasten the bottom rail first, marking the corresponding fastening points.

The distance from the edge of the base to the leading edge of the rail should be 2.5 cm.

To ensure that the doors do not jam and they move evenly, it is necessary to install the cabinet strictly horizontally, which can be done using a regular building level.

The longer the level, the more accurate the horizontal indicators will be.

The top rail is attached in a similar way with the only difference being that you need to drill holes in a checkerboard pattern in both compartments.

Screws from the set supplied with the cabinet are used as fasteners.

From the front end of the top cover to the beginning of the edge of the rail, the distance should be 2 mm.

We install rods and fittings

The final construction stage will be the installation of a bar to accommodate outerwear.

First you need to mark the attachment points for one holder (it is secured with 3 screws), drill holes and tighten the screws.

Then install the second holder on the rod, pressing it with a screw.

The assembled structure must first be tried on, aligned horizontally, and then outlined and attached with the same screws.

We hang the doors

Before this stage, you need to check the gutters in the lower bar for the absence of debris that will interfere with the movement of the rollers, once again make sure that the planes are horizontal and check all connections for rigidity.

The door is first inserted into the top rail.

And then the end rollers need to be placed in the groove of the lower rail.

All 4 doors are installed in this way (the main thing is not to confuse the picture).

In principle, there is nothing complicated in installing a wardrobe. You just need to take a responsible approach to all stages of its assembly, and then you will not only receive advanced training as home handyman, but also certainly gratitude for preserving the family budget.

Assembly is complete - the result is in the photo

Furnishing the home is the final step that combines all renovation and design stages. Modern furniture should combine several the most important qualities: operational functionality, appearance as such, compliance with the overall design idea.

Coupe systems or their elements are present in almost every home. The convenience and functionality of this furniture are undeniable, and for such designer styles, like minimalism, urban, hi-tech and completely irreplaceable. The article provides comprehensive recommendations for making your own wardrobe.

Advantages

Having considered the pros and cons of this class of furniture, we will get a complete understanding of the modern concept of a wardrobe with a compartment door opening system.

There are significantly fewer disadvantages, but they are there:

Varieties by shape

There are several varieties, they have structural and external differences:

• built-in;
• free-standing;
• corner;
• diagonal-angular.

Let's consider each of them separately.

Built-in

When constructing such a cabinet, there is no top, back wall and base. Only partitions are manufactured. The entire structure is screwed directly to the ceiling, walls and floor. Used as fixation metal corners.

This is a stationary structure, and it is an invariable part of the created interior.

Standing separately

Has sides, top, bottom, back and sliding doors. This is a complete separate piece of furniture. It can be moved and is not tied to any design elements.

Angular

Great solution for small apartments, where every meter is precious. Repeats the shape of the corner and allows you to rationally use the space of the room.

Diagonal corner

This is a type of corner, but the facade does not follow the shape of the corner, but is made diagonal. The increased capacity of this design determines its frequent use as a dressing room.

Material used

Furniture with sliding door systems is made from a variety of materials. The table shows the main ones:

Types by design

The classification according to design differences is as follows:

1. built-in;
2. case.

Built-in . There is no need for top, bottom or sides. Their function is performed by the walls, floor and ceiling of the niche. For manufacturing, you can use drywall, which will reduce the overall cost of the product.

Corpus . The main difference from a regular cabinet is the method of opening the doors. If necessary, you can move it. Transportation (moving) without disassembly is possible. The downside is the increased consumption of materials, since the side, bottom and top walls, and the rear part are made.

Now let's take a closer look at the organization of the internal volume of the cabinet.

Design features

When designing, ergonomic and operational specifics should be taken into account.

Let's look at the main structural elements of a sliding wardrobe.

Door width

The choice of door size depends on factors:

• manufacturers of sliding systems are limited certain sizes. Some systems make it possible to produce a sash up to 120 cm wide;
• The width is affected by the number of internal sections. Each section must be freely accessible;
• The choice is influenced by personal preferences. There are no special rules, unless it goes beyond the restrictions listed above.

The optimal width, worked out in practice, is from 600 to 900 mm. This size provides the most comfortable conditions use.

Sliding systems

Sliding systems are classified according to two main criteria:

1. profile material;
2. principle of extension.

To manufacture the profile of the moving system, aluminum or steel is used. The material of the sliding system is selected, as a rule, the same as that used for the door frame. Steel structures are cheaper, but in most cases aluminum is preferred.

Structurally, two types of systems are produced - bottom-mounted and top-hung. In the lower-support type, the door with rollers moves along a rail. In the top-hung system, its rollers move along the upper guides.

Height

The height is arbitrary. The only limitation may be the ceilings or the small stature of the owners of the apartment/house. Structures are made from ceiling to floor, as well as smaller heights.

The standard length of the wall material used is 270 cm. Standard apartment has a ceiling height of 260–270 cm. Almost identical dimensions make it possible not to cut or build up structural elements.

For ceilings higher than 270 mm (if you want to have a floor-to-ceiling closet) there are two solutions. First, the sheets of material are joined to the required length. Secondly, the mezzanine is assembled. Sheets can be joined using high-precision equipment from companies specializing in such services.

Shelf depth

The depth of the shelves determines the everyday usability of the cabinet. The optimal and recommended figure is 60–70 cm. Usually in the closet there is a rod for hangers, the width of which is about 48 cm. A depth of 60 cm will completely eliminate contact inner surface doors and clothes hung on hangers. Most furniture accessories (boxes, trays, etc.) have a width of 50 cm. The shelves should not be made deeper, since it will be inconvenient to get “under the wall” when placing things.

The dimensions of the premises do not always allow the installation of furniture with the maximum recommended shelf depth. But there are also restrictions on the minimum depth. The optimal option may be a depth of 40 cm. Considering that 10 cm goes under the sliding door mechanism, you can purchase small hangers 30 cm wide. Alternatively, install a hanging rod(s) perpendicular to the doors and the rear wall, in this case, the width of the hangers placed not limited.

This solution is much better than completely abandoning the installation of a cabinet, especially since even such a “narrow” design for small apartments- the ideal solution.

Length

When designing, the length of the cabinet is selected in accordance with the location of its further installation.

Height of shelves and rods

The height between shelves is 250–350 mm. The selection rule is simple: greater depth of shelves means greater distance between them, less depth means less distance. This dependence is associated with ease of access to stacks of linen located deep in the shelf (near the back wall).

When designing a mezzanine, you should take into account the size of the things intended to be stored on it. If these are suitcases, then the height of the mezzanine should be equal to the height of the suitcase, plus a small margin.

The mounting height of the hanger bar is determined by the length of the clothing placed on it. Maximum height will be equal to the longest thing. Average length of typical wardrobe items:

• shirts - up to 100 cm;
• jackets - up to 110 cm;
• long clothes - up to 130 cm;
• raincoats and fur coats - up to 150 cm.

These calculations are approximate, since the length of clothing depends on height, style and other parameters.

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Schemes and drawings

The diagrams show various options furniture assembly projects and technologies:

Device inside

When designing the filling of a sliding wardrobe, first of all, zoning of the internal space is done. The figure shows a universal diagram of the breakdown into storage areas for various things:

Buying ready product, you will have to agree with the filling configuration proposed by the manufacturer. Self-production will allow you to take into account as much as possible the dimensions, functionality, location of various zones and much more, which, ultimately, will ensure maximum operational comfort.

Below is a table with examples of frequently used elements of internal filling and zoning of a sliding wardrobe with their help.

Characteristics of the main filling elements:

• retractable and stationary shelves. For convenient use, the distance between them is from 350 to 450 mm;
• drawers. Two types - fully retractable (100%), partially retractable (80%). They can be equipped with closers that provide smooth semi-automatic closing of the drawer;
• mezzanines, known as hard-to-reach shelves. Located at the top. Rarely used and bulky items are stored on them;
• Barbells are needed for hangers. Mounted along the width of the cabinet;
• pantographs or special “furniture elevators”. Thanks to them, clothes are stored at the required level and can be easily pulled out using a special rod. They can be electrical or mechanical;
• Baskets are convenient for storing small items. Equipped with rollers and guides.

Facades

The interior content, thought out to the smallest detail, will be in sharp dissonance with poorly chosen facades. It is the facades that give the entire cabinet a special finished look. Let's consider several options for their implementation.

Mirror

A mirror visually enlarges the space and makes the room brighter. Can be whole or divided into several parts. The large weight of the mirror determines the need to select high-quality and reliable rollers. Such a facade creates additional maintenance troubles - the mirror quickly gets dirty. It will have to be wiped and washed regularly, especially if the family has small children.

A variety of finishes are used for facade mirrors - sandblasting patterns and designs, spraying of various shades (silver, emerald, gold, etc.) for glass, printing color images and much more. For safety reasons, a mirror with inside covered with shockproof (armor) film. If the mirror breaks, the pieces will not fly away.

Glass

Glass is no less popular than mirror; facades are equipped with unbreakable ones. Frosted glass with a pattern is mainly used. Vertical and horizontal stripes that divide the canvas into separate squares look original.

MDF and chipboard

These materials are laminated with film. The facades look massive and heavy. To install them you will need reliable roller systems. One of the advantages is a huge selection of colors, shades and patterns, texture - from matte to bright glossy.

Photo printing can be applied to MDF and chipboard facades.

These are the main types of facades used in the manufacture of sliding wardrobes. You can combine them with each other. This article contains photographs with a considerable number of original ideas for the production of facades.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

Gluing the edge tape

After cutting all the elements, the edge tape is glued to the ends of the slab. Sequence of operations performed:

The processing of the main elements is carried out similarly.

Assembly

According to the project, the details are cut out. It is better to do this operation in a workshop on a special formatting machine. After cutting and gluing the edges, we assemble the cabinet:

Using the same operating sequence, you can assemble a wardrobe of any configuration.

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Making doors

The door consists of a frame, metal guides and a roller system. You should order it from a company that professionally deals with such systems. Specialized software Based on the given dimensions, it will calculate all the elements and issue a complete specification for assembly. Mirrors or slabs from other materials are cut to the size of the doors for mounting in frames.

The main parts for assembling the doors are made of aluminum. All metal components must be coated protective film, protecting them from scratches during transportation.

Assembling the sliding system

Let's consider step by step assembly door leaf. In our example there will be two mirror doors.

Additionally, we install auxiliary elements - a pipe for hangers, etc.

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In the end it should look like this

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the diagrams and drawings. They will help you create your own project.

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Small apartment

Choosing furniture for your own home is an intriguing and exciting experience. Everyone knows that interior items, like clothes and shoes, also have their own fashion. Which model should I choose and will there be any pitfalls when assembling and installing the wardrobe?

All sliding wardrobes are produced in two design options:

1. Built-in - do not have a side or rear wall, they are built into a wall niche or corner of the room. When installing this cabinet, adjusting the cabinet on site is inevitable, because Curved walls of the room will require trimming of parts.

2. Cabinet - have exact dimensions and differ from ordinary furniture only in the presence of compartment doors. These cabinets are easy to install and can be assembled in 2-3 hours.

As for design, today it is fashionable to move away from simple angular surfaces; furniture with round shapes is increasingly valued. Thanks to its smooth lines, such furniture smooths out corners and protrusions, making it safer for children who like to bump around and run around. The most fashionable version of a sliding wardrobe is a radius wardrobe - it can be curved, concave or round.

Nice wardrobe a coupe sometimes replaces an entire dressing room. Its internal filling is a real find for people who understand convenience and elegance. This includes a variety of hangers, drawers, hooks, pull-out shelves, a rod with fluorescent lighting, tie hangers, an iron stand, and storage for accessories.

As for the assembly of such models, please note that manufacturers extend a warranty to the product only if it is assembled by company specialists, so it is recommended to purchase a radius cabinet along with the assembly. Unlike radius ones, it is quite possible to assemble a sliding wardrobe of a classic model yourself.

The main condition: the assembly of the sliding wardrobe will go quickly and without alterations, if you follow the order of installing the doors (after the cabinet body has already been assembled).

In what sequence are doors installed?
Step-by-step instruction:
1. First, screw the top door roller rail onto the cabinet lid, flush with the front of the cabinet side post.
2. The bottom rail is placed on the bottom of the cabinet without screwing it.
3. The door is first inserted into the top rail, while you need to tilt the door slightly. Then to the bottom, in this case you must first press the wheels on the lower edge of the door with your fingers. The wheels are mounted on a spring, so they move easily.
4. We achieve the verticality of the door - if you look at the cabinet from the side, it should be vertically level. We screw the bottom rail along the edges, check the installation again by rolling the door from place to place, adjust if necessary and finally secure the rail. If the mounting holes are not available, you can drill new ones, or you can mark with a pencil the location of the bottom rail, remove the door, secure the rail, and put the door in place.
5. Install the second door and adjust the position of all doors.
Before assembling the cabinet, if you have parquet or laminate, place some soft sliding material under the cabinet, like felt, so that when moving the cabinet to the wall you do not scratch the floor.
Naturally, in small apartments, due to the lack of free space on the floor, the cabinet frame must be assembled while standing.

What is the sequence in which a sliding wardrobe is assembled in a standing position?

First we fix the side walls. The support of an assistant is desirable. The cabinet can be assembled by one person, but it will be much faster with two people.
. Fixing the roof.
. Next is the back wall, which consists of separate sheets of fiberboard. We fasten the right and left sheets. The cabinet should be rectangular. The squareness of the cabinet is checked by placing a shelf in the corner; the shelves have all right angles.
. Then the partitions are installed, and the back wall is finally fixed. The corners must be screwed to the racks and partitions in advance, when they are still in a lying position.
. The cabinet moves to the wall and, preferably, is attached to it with a corner. If the cabinet has a back wall, then there is no need to attach it to the wall.
. The final stage is the installation of doors and internal filling. The shelves are marked on one side, the other is secured by placing a level on the shelf (the corners to the shelves must be screwed in advance).
If the cabinet has special adjustable legs, then it should include a podium that is leveled, and then racks, shelves and everything else are attached to it.
If in your apartment there are not right angles between the floor and the wall, then with a small gap you can leave everything as is. If the difference is large, then the wall needs to be straightened (during repairs). A simpler leveling option is to mow the podium to the desired angle.

Today, you can easily use professional furniture assembly services. But some people want to do everything themselves, and the point here is not even the cost, but curiosity and interest. We'll tell you how to assemble a cabinet yourself in our article.

How to assemble a cabinet with your own hands

Young families often have to solve problems related to the furnishings of their “nest”. Sometimes the situation is further complicated by the lack of funds to purchase new furniture. In addition, the small size of the living space forces you to think through the placement of all interior elements in advance.

You can cope with this problem if you assemble a closet with your own hands - this way you will get a place to store existing things that will suit you in size.

If you prepare for the process (buy tools and materials in advance), you can easily assemble the cabinet yourself. You don't need professional skills for this.

It is easier to assemble a cabinet if you divide the entire production activity into several stages. The work consists of a set of sequential activities:

Circuit design.

Preparation necessary tools.

Buying parts and giving them the desired shape and size.

Assembly of the structure.

Before assembling the cabinet, you should prepare tools that may be useful during the process:

electric drill - for tightening screws and drilling holes;

hammer - you will use it to hammer in dowels;

• building level;

  a simple pencil - for taking measurements and making marks;

  glue – useful for gluing pile;

  a hacksaw for wood, which will allow you to fit all the parts to required sizes;

  a lot of screws and dowels.

Initially, it is necessary to check the quality of every detail of the future design. The surfaces must be free of blisters, cracks, scratches and other defects. Please take precautions when transporting cabinet parts. All components should be securely fastened to the car body.

Before assembling the cabinet, you need to draw up a sketch and decide on the location of the structure. Here you need to focus on personal preferences and the availability of free space. In most cases, cabinets are located in a closet, in the corner of a room, or near a wall.

The standard height to length ratio is 1.62. That is, if the ceiling height is 3 m, the optimal cabinet length is 185 cm (300/1.62 = 185.1). Cabinet parts can have a depth of 40, 50 or 60 cm. Of course, you can assemble a cabinet of completely different depths, but it is worth considering that too great importance this parameter makes the use of furniture not very convenient.

Having chosen a suitable location, you can begin to draw up a sketch, which is detailed diagram with a picture of all the elements of the future cabinet. It can be prepared manually on paper or using computer programs Excel and Basis. The advantage of the latest program is the ability to calculate the size and quantity of all parts that will need to be cut.

Example of filling a cabinet

Chipboard is most often used to make shelves. The shelves are fastened using self-tapping screws and corners.

Before starting the assembly process, you need to prepare necessary materials. You can order cutting and edge processing of parts at the place where you will purchase them.

In order to assemble a structure measuring 1.5x2.4 m, you will need:

three horizontal parts 1.5×0.6 m;

two vertical parts 2×0.6 m (cabinet walls);

one partition 1.35×0.6 m;

three partitions for shelves measuring 0.325 × 0.6 m, which will be installed vertically;

one sheet for a shelf with dimensions 1.5 × 0.3 m;

three partitions for a shelf 0.3×0.4 m.

The main task at this stage is to calculate the number of parts and their sizes without errors. If the sketch is not drawn up accurately, there is a risk of buying the wrong amount of materials that will be needed.

How to assemble a cabinet: sequence of actions

1. First you need to install a 1.5x0.6 m board on the floor and attach two side elements to it. If there is a plinth on the floor, it is better to remove it so that the side parts do not need to be adjusted to fit it. It is better to use dowels to fasten parts. They allow you to securely attach elements to the cabinet wall.

To attach the remaining elements to the bottom board, screws and metal corners are useful. In some cases, shelves are installed using plastic corners, but fasteners made of such material are less reliable.

1. The next step is to assemble the shelves inside the cabinet: two boards are attached to the vertical part and the three transverse compartments, which are placed in a horizontal position.
2. The compartments are secured in a similar way - using self-tapping screws and metal corners. If it is possible to get close to the walls, which are located on the side, then the fastening elements can be Euroscrews.
3. The upper outer shelves are attached. Three vertical partitions of the structure are attached to a horizontal board with dimensions of 1.5 × 3 m. The frequency of fastening the partitions is 0.5 m.

If you want to assemble a floor-to-ceiling cabinet yourself, you may have difficulty securing the top cover.

You need to leave some space at the top to insert the hexagon. An alternative option is to attach the cabinet lid to metal corners from the inside.

This way you can get two hanger compartments in which you can place outerwear, dresses and shirts. On one side of the cabinet there will be a shelf, and the other side will be divided into three small compartments.

How to assemble a wardrobe

Is it possible to assemble a wardrobe yourself? To do this, it is necessary to determine the correct procedure. The first step is to check the integrity of the package - whether all cabinet parts have been delivered. You should have at your disposal several boxes of chipboard (at least two), doors and packaging with hardware.

Please note that hardware and other additional parts may be packaged with chipboard. When accepting cabinet parts, carefully check the contents of the boxes and inventory, since there are often cases when suppliers “forget” to include some items.

In order to assemble a wardrobe, you will need a set of the following tools:

Phillips screwdriver PH2;

hex wrench with edge width 5 mm (L-shaped);

tape measures (or rulers);

level (optional);

drills and drill bits with a diameter of 5 mm.

A screwdriver with bits (hexagonal and Phillips) will help to significantly speed up the work, but, of course, you can assemble the cabinet without it.

It is quite difficult to assemble a cabinet alone, so before starting work we recommend finding an assistant so that you have someone to ask to hold the part or hand over the tool. Before you start assembling the cabinet, you should remove all the parts from the packaging material and arrange the boards according to size. This way you can immediately determine the purpose of each element.

Each panel has characteristic holes, so it is almost impossible to assemble the parts incorrectly.

There are three chipboard connection schemes:

using confirmed screws;

using eccentric couplers (minifixes);

with the addition of wooden dowels (chops) to one of the above methods.

The connections differ from each other by characteristic holes that can be found on the plane and at the ends of the boards. The use of confirmations requires the presence of two types of holes:

In one part - through, in a plane with a diameter of 7 mm.

In the second part there is a blind part, with a diameter of 4.5 or 5 mm.

The same number of holes is made for eccentric couplers:

In one part there is a blind part, in a plane with a diameter of 5 mm, into which the minifix rod is screwed.

The second part has a hole at the end (8 mm), connected to a recess in the plane with a diameter of 15 mm for the clamping cylinder.

For dowels, blind holes are made both at the end and in the plane with the same diameter of 8–10 mm.

Pay attention to the set of hardware from your cabinet; by their presence, you can determine the type of connections and the sequence of assembly of parts.

Remember also that the front side (end) of the boards is edge-glued, while the back side (where the fiberboard is nailed) remains bare. This will help you assemble the cabinet correctly, including the correct placement of shelves, lintels and sides.

Determining the purpose of the panels

Carry out a thorough inspection of all parts so as not to miss blind holes and additional markings. Initially, you need to install the bottom - the bottom of the wardrobe.

There are two types of bottom: with and without adjustable legs. If legs are attached to the bottom, then the bottom can easily be identified by the presence of blind or through holes about 10 mm in diameter where they are inserted. Sometimes the legs are not inserted into the holes, but are installed using screws (in this case, the bottom of the cabinet will have corresponding markings).

The cabinet bottom without legs has a different design. It is based on side panels and special strips (plinths) 50–100 mm wide, which are located along the perimeter of the surface and prevent it from collapsing under the weight of the cabinet elements. A design feature of this bottom is additional holes for dowels for attaching the base.

Having set aside the bottom of the cabinet, you can also immediately remove the roof (top panel). Its size will be similar to the parameters of the bottom, only with fewer holes.

Finding the side frames is also usually not difficult - these are the longest parts with holes for attaching shelves on one side. The internal vertical jumpers are shorter than the side walls and have characteristic holes at the ends, which are intended for confirmations or dowels.

In order to separate the shelves from the rest of the cabinet, you just need to select boards of the same (small) size, which are glued only on one (front) side. Sliding wardrobes are almost never equipped with overhead shelves, so they must have at least two holes at the ends on both sides.

The design of a wardrobe often includes two additional large shelves. One is installed below as a stand for shoes, and the other at the top is used as a mezzanine. The dimensions of both elements are identical.

If the closet has drawers, then their components are quite easy to find - these are boards with the smallest dimensions (the width of the boards is about 120 mm).

Rules for installing various hardware

Those who want to assemble a cabinet with their own hands often have a question: do they need to glue the wooden dowels? It should be understood that if you glue them, you won’t be able to disassemble the cabinet if necessary (during moving or renovation) without damaging the fasteners. The use of glue does not make the structure more rigid or durable, so gluing is advisable in cases where the connection is made only with dowels, without the use of screws or minifixes.

How to install dowels correctly? They are hammered exclusively into holes on the plane and in no case into the end of the chipboard, since the board may crack when connected. It is recommended to insert dowels by hand or using a rubber hammer. It is also possible to use a metal hammer, but you need to work very carefully so as not to pierce the panel through the dowel.

The minifix rods are screwed in with a Phillips screwdriver. A screwdriver is not very suitable for these purposes, since you can easily turn it in the hole and fixing the connections will be unreliable. Once the panels are connected and the rods are in the holes, the eccentric discs can be inserted. This makes it easier to assemble the cabinet, because if the disk is not centered correctly in advance, the minifix rod will not go all the way into the hole.

When tightening a furniture screw (confirm), you should not use much force to prevent it from turning in the hole. But if this does happen, try sealing the hole with three regular matches.

How to assemble a wardrobe: procedure

It is easier to assemble the cabinet if you place it face down on the floor. At the beginning of the process, be sure to measure the diagonal of the side panel (not the length, but the diagonal). This parameter should be 5 cm less than the ceiling height so that the assembled cabinet can then be raised. Otherwise, you can assemble the cabinet while standing, but you will need help holding the side panels in place.

If you want to assemble a wardrobe yourself, it is better to start from the bottom. Install the legs (or plinths) on the bottom of the cabinet and insert all the fixed hardware into the holes: dowels and minifix rods. After this, you need to insert all the hardware into one of the sides and connect it to the bottom. If the wardrobe is wide with vertical jumpers, you should install the closest panel to the already standing side part. Then you can install the shelves between them in order from bottom to top. Next, in a similar way, assemble the next jumper and secure it with shelves.

Before installing the second side piece, look at how the top should fit. If the “roof” is installed on top of the entire structure, then you first need to secure the side frame. And if the top panel must be located between the side panels, before the last of them is attached, then you must first fix the top.

Nailing the back wall

Once you have assembled the frame, you can begin to secure the fiberboard on the back side. Most often, the back panel consists of several parts, so to avoid errors, you should determine the location of each of them before installation. Long-term storage Chipboard leads to slight deformation (especially the side elements). An arc (“belly”) appears on the panel, which can be eliminated if the fiberboard is nailed correctly.

That is, having attached the board to the cabinet, you first need to find and nail the flat side. Then, straightening out the curvature, you should nail the second side. Fiberboard is cut on sawing machines and has a rectangular shape, which is close to ideal. The described method allows you to level the cabinet, correcting the diagonal curvature. You can check the quality of the work performed using a tape measure (the permissible deviation is 5 mm per 1 m).

Some cabinets include radius additions on the sides of the structure. These are independent elements that can be easily assembled and attached to the cabinet using special furniture ties. The same applies to the decorative figured roof (“canopy”) into which the lighting is mounted.

Installing additional items

These include box blocks, a pipe for trempels, hooks, a pantograph, and lighting. These parts are standard purchased products, each of which has its own instructions with a detailed description of dimensions and installation work.

The exception is a pipe for hangers. The width is fixed exactly in the middle of the cabinet, and the height can be any. Most often, the pipe is installed below 50–100 mm from the top shelf.

Door system installation

If you managed to assemble the wardrobe yourself and install all the necessary elements, then you can begin installing its doors.

We propose to consider the most popular system, which is used most often due to its low cost. The set consists of two guides: high (which is installed on top) and low (with slots for wheels) - mounted on the bottom panel of the cabinet. In most cases, there are no holes in the guides, so before assembling the cabinet doors, you need to prepare a drill with a diameter of 5 mm. The recesses in the bottom strip should be drilled between the grooves in one row: two at the edges and the rest between them at intervals of 300 mm. Holes are drilled in the top bar in a similar way, only in two rows (separately for each groove). Fastening is carried out using furniture screws 12–16 mm long with a countersunk or flat head.

Important. Before installing the bottom strip, do not forget to insert special door stoppers into the bottom slots - each has a separate parking stop, which is set after adjusting it.

Installation of guides

The top guide is installed flush with the end of the roof. First, you should secure one side of the plank, then align it with the end, and then install the second. Next you need to screw in the remaining intermediate screws. If you assemble the doors in the described sequence, then the skewing of the strip can be eliminated.

Important. The lower guide is not fixed flush, but with a distance of 15 mm from the end into the depth of the cabinet. This distance ensures that the doors will stand strictly in vertical position no tilt.

Door installation

The next step is to install the doors, but first you need to figure out the pattern on them (if there is one). The first step is to install the door on the rear slots. To do this, carefully insert the upper part into the rear upper groove, squeeze out the spring-loaded lower wheels and slide them onto the lower rear slot. If the cabinet design includes more than two doors, it is necessary to install the second door on the rear rails in the same way. Exterior door is placed last.

Door adjustment

Now your task is to adjust the doors correctly. For these purposes, there are holes and adjusting screws for a 5-point hexagon at the bottom of the doors on both sides.

Using an L-shaped wrench, turn the bolt clockwise or counterclockwise. Pay attention to how the gap between the door and the sidewall changes - the smaller its width, the better.

After adjusting the doors, you need to set the stoppers correctly. They are designed to keep the doors stationary when closed. Align them so that the wheel fits exactly onto the stopper, and the end of the door does not reach the wall by about a millimeter. When there is more than one door, the outer latches are adjusted first, and then the rest relative to them.

Buffer fleece tape must be applied to the side ends of the adjusted doors (on both sides). This tape helps prevent doors from colliding with each other, as well as preventing damage to the chipboard. Sometimes, after filling the closet with things, the structure becomes slightly deformed, after which the doors need to be re-adjusted.

First you need to make sure that all work on leveling the walls, floors, finishing (including installing the apron), electrical wiring, connecting sockets and water supply is completed. It will be very difficult to complete the listed types of work with an already installed kitchen cabinet.

Before assembling the kitchen cabinet, take care to prepare the necessary tools:

a hammer drill, a drill with a diameter of 6 and 8 mm, a drill (and an adapter for it) and corresponding drills;

screwdriver (required!);

a jigsaw or a hacksaw for metal (to saw off the tabletop);

hex wrench;

tools: square and level, tape measure, hammer, pliers and cutter knife.

Advice!You can borrow the missing items from someone, but it is better to purchase these tools yourself so that you can use them if necessary. A screwdriver and a hammer drill are useful in every home.

In order to assemble a kitchen cabinet, you should also prepare various fasteners:

furniture nails;

euroscrews;

fastening strip (rail) for hanging;

silicone based sealant;

ties that fasten the sections together;

self-tapping screws: 15–16 mm for fittings and 70 mm for hanging cabinets;

corners, dowels, anchor bolts (usually included with the headset);

conductor for dowels (preferably).

If you have instructions that tell you how to assemble the cabinet, study it carefully. It should describe (or draw) and number the parts of the headset, and also define the assembly sequence. Then you need to check the integrity of the package and arrange all the available elements. Since today almost all kitchen sets consist of modules, the process of assembling a cabinet is reminiscent of working with a construction set.

Usually they start assembling a kitchen cabinet from the bottom: first they install the lower cabinets, then the countertop, then they form and hang the upper modules, draw markings on the wall, and then install and hang the modules.

What is the algorithm for installing kitchen cabinet parts? Do you need to assemble the lower sections first or, conversely, the upper ones? You can install in these two ways. There are craftsmen who begin the installation process from the upper modules so that the lower cabinets do not interfere with work.

Please note that the upper cabinets are installed without fronts, so their installation will be easier. Plus, in this way you can identify the gaps between the facades directly on the wall.

If you decide to assemble the kitchen yourself, it is better to start from the bottom tier. Standard cabinets are divided depending on the type of construction, each of which has its own characteristics.

So, the decision was made to assemble the kitchen, starting with the lower modules.

First of all, we connect the bottom to the side walls using Euroscrews, which are included in the kit.

We are installing the top strips, on which we will then lay the tabletop. Then we measure the diagonals of the cabinet using a tape measure. If their length differs by no more than 1.5–3 mm, we continue the work process.

We secure the back wall made of fairly thin fiberboard using small nails or a construction stapler. To ensure reliable fastening, monitor the step frequency (it should not exceed 8–10 mm).

We install the legs on the lower part of the cabinet, securing them with self-tapping screws.

We install hinges in pre-made nests and secure them with self-tapping screws, then attach the lower facades to the hinges.

After installing the cabinet in a vertical position, you need to align the doors using the adjusting screws on the hinges.

If you managed to assemble the set, at the end you need to install the handles.

Drawers are easier to assemble using a slightly different technology.

First, you need to make markings on the side walls to install metal guides.

In accordance with the markings, we secure the guides, and then connect the side walls with the bottom and upper slats.

We assemble the retractable elements by installing the mechanisms on their side surfaces.

Note! The bottom of such boxes is the weakest point. It is best to fasten it using a construction stapler with a step frequency of 5–8 mm.

We equip the front parts of the drawers with handles.

This element is the easiest to assemble.

First you need to assemble the “cabinet box” by connecting the bottom, top and side walls using Euroscrews.

We install the hinges in the sockets and fix them with self-tapping screws.

Advice! Do not rush to hang the doors, this will make it difficult to install the cabinets on the wall.

The last step is to attach the hangers. If everything worked out, feel free to proceed with installing the kitchen cabinet.

We begin the installation process by installing the upper part of the structure, since the assembled bottom cabinet since already installed countertop may make it difficult to install wall-mounted modules.

We apply markings to the wall to secure the wall cabinets.

We measure the height of the tabletop and add from 50 to 60 cm to the resulting value, depending on our height. This way we get the height of the bottom edge of the wall cabinets.

From this line we measure the distance to the attachment point of the wall cabinet and draw another line. This is where we will fix the fasteners.

Advice! If your headset has corner cupboard, you should start assembling the upper part with it, and after installing it, begin installing the remaining elements.

After applying the markings, you can begin installing the fasteners.

If we hang cabinets on hinge fastenings, we need to drill holes in the wall with a diameter of 8 mm and hammer plastic dowels into them.

Then we install locking screws with hooks at the ends into the dowels and then hang the cabinets.

Another way is to hang the elements on a metal rail. To do this, specially shaped fasteners are attached to the modules themselves, which cling to a metal profile fixed to the wall (as in the photo).

This method is considered more reliable, so it is better to use it if possible; besides, the cost of the tire cannot be called high.

After installing the modules, you can hang the fronts and align them using the adjustment screws.

The floor part is a little easier to assemble than the rest.

First, using a jigsaw or a hacksaw with a thin blade, we cut holes in the back walls of the cabinets for communications. We treat the edges of the cuts with silicone-based sealant to protect the cabinet from getting wet and deforming.

We attach the cabinet to the place intended for it, level it, then connect it with the neighboring cabinets using furniture ties.

After installing all the cabinets, we install the tabletop.

If the tabletop does not fit, we cut its panel and install a protective end cap.

Note! The countertop must be installed in such a way that the gap between it and the kitchen wall is at least 5 mm (to avoid deformation).

How to assemble the tabletop:

We lower the tabletop onto the cabinets and make markings on its lower surface where the sink is installed.

We remove the countertop and, placing it on a table or workbench, cut out a hole for the sink. This can be done by drilling several holes using a drill and connecting them with a jigsaw.

We install and secure the sink on the countertop, then treat the joint with silicone sealant.

We install the countertop with a fixed sink on the kitchen cabinets, then level it horizontally and plane, and then fix it on the kitchen modules. To do this, you can take special fasteners or simply drive the spikes on the tabletop into sockets drilled in the walls of the modules.

The joint between the countertop and the wall can be disguised using a special plinth.

So we managed to assemble the kitchen cabinet. Now you can connect the sink to the water supply and sewerage system, place household appliances and use the kitchen as usual.

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Many people wonder whether it is possible to assemble a spacious and high-quality wardrobe on their own? Yes it is possible. With a competent approach to assembling the cabinet, it will last at least 10 years.

To assemble the wardrobe you will need to prepare the following tools:

• Screwdriver;
• hammer;
• hex wrench;
• roulette;
• crosshead screwdriver;
• corner ruler.

You will also need to purchase a set of furniture fittings and components for the cabinet. This list includes:

• Small nails for fiberboard - about 100-130 pieces;
• confirmations - 50-80 pieces;
• caps in the color of chipboard - 20-40 pieces;
• profile for fiberboard - 1 piece;
• rod holders;
• barbell;
• drawer guides;
• legs - optional.

Instructions for assembling the wardrobe must be included with the purchased piece of furniture. They rarely differ detailed descriptions, rely more on professionals. Let's talk about how to assemble a wardrobe yourself.

Schemes of cabinets and filling

Today you can find a variety of designs of sliding wardrobes:

• With two, three, four or more sections;
• with drawers and bottom;
• two-door, three-door and so on.

Before proceeding with installation, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the diagrams.

We will show you an example of how to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands in the second option. The diagram shows a cabinet with three sections 2400 mm wide and 2600 mm high. It has two doors and a corner exterior panel with rounded shelves.

The filling of the closet includes shelves, drawers, and clothes rails. It is these features that most often prevent a person from making a choice. Among the variety of furniture designs, it is sometimes difficult to choose what is right for you.

When choosing a wardrobe, consider the following details:

• The room where it will be installed;
• own requirements for design capacity;
• features of storage items (linen, clothes, shoes, etc.);
• budget.

The space inside it should be used rationally. You can store your trousers separately on the bottom section, and have a separate rack for your shirts.

Modern content is the key to assembling a practical cabinet. Behind sliding doors Today there are baskets for storing small items, hangers for ties, trousers, belts, pull-out shelves and rods, and wardrobe elevators.

Having decided on the content and design, you can proceed to assembly.

Installation process and features

Installation of a sliding wardrobe includes several standard steps:

• cabinet body assembly;
• installation of guides, installation of the rear wall;
• door installation.

Let's talk about how to correctly complete all stages of the work if you have the materials listed earlier.

You need to assemble the cabinet on the floor. It is optimal to do this in such a position that lifting a heavy body after assembly requires a minimum of effort and energy. Since the cabinet has three drawers, you should mark and secure the guides. They come in two types:

• roller;
• telescopic.

The master is required to accurately calculate their location. The difference is that telescopic models are located strictly in the middle of each drawer, and roller ones hold the bottom of each drawer, that is, they must correspond to the level of the bottom line of each drawer. Please note that the guide systems of some companies require that the front part of the drawer be indented from the edge of the section. It is important to mark the position of the elements, secure them on the side wall and on the internal partition.

It is important to know that a number of cabinet filling elements will also require preliminary marking and installation of fasteners, since this work will then be complicated.

The next stage: installation of supports (legs) that will prevent moisture from coming into contact with the chipboard during operation. Now the side stack is connected to the bottom of the cabinet using a screwdriver and confirmations. The next part to connect is the inner wall. In order for it to obtain optimal rigidity, it is necessary to connect both walls using a connecting shelf.

Assembling a sliding wardrobe with your own hands requires the master to have a clear understanding of the functions of all structural parts and fittings. Some shelves can be put back in place only after the furniture has been installed in a vertical position.

We assemble the structure further, gradually expanding it. Connecting shelves and another internal wall will be added. Before installing the side outer wall, we recommend securing it in advance. corner shelves, which will be outside. Once the structure is assembled, you can attach the final element - the top cover.

An approximate diagram of the wardrobe assembly is shown in the photo below. All parts must be edged, and all filler work must be carried out. In order for the cabinet, assembled and installed by yourself, to be of high quality, it is better to carry out this work on specialized machines.

The confirmations are screwed in at low speeds with a screwdriver while firmly holding the parts strictly at an angle of 90°.

We move on to the next stage: we nail the back wall made of fiberboard. This is done by nailing it to the structure. If the width of the sheet does not allow closing the section, use a connecting profile of the appropriate color. You need to nail the wall from top to bottom.

Now the assembly of the wardrobe is almost complete, all that remains is to install it in place, assemble the drawers, equipping them with guides, and hang the doors.

Assembling a built-in wardrobe

Installation of a built-in wardrobe in almost every way repeats the steps of assembling a conventional one. It can also have side walls made of chipboard, or it can be assembled in a vertical position using metal guides.

There are many ways to make the internal filling of a built-in wardrobe.

Since part of the structure is attached directly to the wall, this type of wardrobe can be installed vertically. Professional furniture makers know that making a cabinet in a finished niche on site is difficult and time-consuming work. When ordering, they try to make a cabinet from laminated chipboard in the workshop to fit the size of the room and assemble it on site.

A person who decides to do such work independently in his home has time and can assemble a reliable, inexpensive and spacious structure.

If the perimeter of the built-in structure will be walls, floor and ceiling, it is important that they are as smooth as possible. A level is useful for measuring the angle of inclination and leveling surfaces before installing shelves, walls and doors. Preparing a niche is serious business. To do this, the surface of the walls is cleaned, primed and covered with acrylic enamel.

When installing additional lighting inside any structure, we recommend using low-power halogen lamps to comply with fire regulations.

Installing Cabinet Doors

Installing the doors of a regular and built-in wardrobe is a crucial moment. A heavy structure will require the help of an assistant; it will be difficult to do it yourself.

There are three door mounting options:

• monorail;
• two rails with top support;
• two rails with bottom support.

The most common system is based on the bottom rail. Support on the top has not become widespread, but is used more often for built-in cabinets, where the guide rail is attached to the concrete ceiling. The assembly of wardrobe doors is divided into several stages:

• profile cutting;
• drilling holes;
• installation of horizontal and vertical profiles;
• installation of a finished roller structure.

After cutting and drilling, the door profile must be sanded with sandpaper. If on door leaf a mirror is glued, which is very common in designs of this type; you should prepare it in advance by gluing a self-adhesive film on the back side. This is a safety rule.

On mirror and glass doors an additional seal is put on. Now you need to study the door installation manual.

We assemble the structure on the floor. The first step is to install horizontal profiles. If it is difficult to do this manually, use a mallet. Vertical handle profiles are installed in the same way. They are pre-drilled so that the upper and lower screws fit into the grooves of the horizontal profiles.

The process of screwing in self-tapping screws is special: first, a self-tapping screw is screwed in a short length, then a roller is inserted, and then you can fix it by tightening it to the limit. Additionally, vertical and horizontal profiles are tightened with self-tapping screws.

The next step is to install the top and bottom rails. Not everyone knows how to do this job correctly. The top ones are installed first, the outer edge should match the edge of the cabinet lid. The bottom rail fits onto the bottom edge but is not fixed. So, it is possible to check the angle of the door by installing one of them and checking the operation of the mechanism. In some cases, the bottom rail moves inward by 2 centimeters.

Assembling furniture is a rather complicated process, but anyone can do the work themselves. A sliding wardrobe is a modern, spacious design that many people dream of. If desired, you can assemble such a cabinet in each apartment.