Simple ways to install socket boxes. How to install a block of sockets in a wall - instructions from A to Z Connecting socket boxes to each other

Electrics

Household electrical appliances They make life much easier, so a large number of them in the house is the rule, not the exception or a tribute to fashion. There are especially many devices in the kitchen and where the TV and computer “settle”: both types of smart technology often require a large army of “helpers” to provide comfort to the owners. Tees or extensions are not best solution urgent problem, therefore best option- a block of sockets, which can have 2-4 electrical points. To avoid unpleasant situations in the future, you need to know about the nuances of their installation. For example, how to connect a 4-socket outlet.

Types of devices and their features

There are quite a lot of varieties of plug sockets and blocks. Each type has its own design features and purpose.

1. Hidden devices are mounted directly into the wall - in special socket boxes.
2. Open devices are produced for those apartments where the electrical wiring is not hidden in the wall.
3. Retractable socket blocks are mounted in a table or other furniture. Their convenience lies in the fact that after use, the devices can be easily hidden from prying eyes and playful children’s hands.

The devices differ in the method of clamping the contacts. It comes in screw and spring types. In the first case, the conductor is fixed with a screw, in the second - with a spring. The latter are more reliable, but they are not so easy to find on sale. The devices are secured to the walls in three ways - with claws with jagged edges, self-tapping screws or a special plate - a support, which facilitates both installation and dismantling of the socket.

In addition to conventional, inexpensive devices, there are models equipped with grounding contacts. These petals are located in the upper and lower parts, and a grounding wire is attached to them. To ensure safety, sockets are equipped with curtains or protective covers.

Main popular types

These include:

• type “C”, it has 2 contacts - phase and zero, usually purchased if intended for low or medium power equipment;
• type “F”, in addition to the traditional pair, is equipped with one more contact - a grounding one; these sockets are becoming more popular, since a grounding loop has become the norm for apartments in new buildings;
• Type “E”, which differs from the previous one only in the shape of the grounding contact, is a pin, the same as the elements of the socket plug.

The last type is less common than the others, since it is less convenient to use: turning the plug 180° with such a socket is impossible.

The security of the case is the next difference between the models. The degree of security is indicated by the IP index and a two-digit number following these letters. The first digit indicates the dust protection class, solids, the second - from moisture.

1. For ordinary living rooms, IP22 or IP33 class models are sufficient.
2. It is recommended to buy IP43 for children, as these sockets are equipped with covers/curtains that block the sockets when the equipment is not in use.
3. IP44 is the minimum required for bathrooms, kitchens, baths. Not only strong humidity, but also splashes of water can pose a threat. They are suitable for installation in basements without heating.

Installing a socket on open balcony- a sufficient reason to purchase a product with a higher degree of protection, this is at least IP55.

Connection diagrams

Even a novice master will not face any special difficulties, everything is very clear, but it is better to consider the features of each option.

Single-phase network without grounding

The diagram is indicated by numbers:

1 - general machine;

2 - the one that turns off the phase on a specific line;

3 - zero bus;

4 - distribution boxes, separate for each outlet;

5 - cables.

Any electrical specialist knows that the phase should be located on the left, but owners often break this rule. If there are problems in the electrical network, they create additional difficulties for themselves when diagnosing, as well as in the case of self-repair.

Single-phase network, but with grounding

In this case, only one element is added, number 6, this is the main grounding bus for the protective conductor (PE). It is indicated in green.

There is another option, used for outbuildings, if they are equipped open view wiring. In this case, the grounding runs along the floor - along the perimeter of the walls, and a separate wire leads to the sockets below. There are no other differences in the eyeliner.

Possible connection methods

There are several ways to achieve the result, but it all depends on the potential load on such outlets.

Loop - sequential method

If it is necessary to install blocks consisting of several sockets, all elements are connected using the daisy chain method. The phase is connected to the second device with jumpers, then the next device is switched in the same way. Do the same with zero contacts.

The method is quite simple, but not without its drawbacks. Thus, poor contact in one of the intermediate sockets automatically causes the following elements to fail. Checking and tightening the terminals will help you avoid trouble; the operation must be planned and carried out at least once a year.

If the terminals allow, then instead of separate jumpers it is better to use a solid wire. The insulation is removed from a small area, then it is bent into a loop, clamped into a terminal, then the next sockets are “straightened” using the same method. The reliability of all elements of such an electrical network is a big plus of this method. The disadvantages - the need to calculate the length of the wire, relatively long, more difficult work - are still insignificant.

A much bigger disadvantage is the impossibility of simultaneous operation of several powerful devices, since the maximum current value for one outlet is 16 A. If several “serious” pieces of equipment are involved in the work at once, then the power cable simply may not withstand the increased load.

Star - parallel connection

In this case, all sockets in the room are connected with a separate, “own” wire, suitable for the distribution box, where the main cable is connected from the panel. This method does not limit the operation of the sockets, since even if one of them fails, the rest will remain in working order.

The biggest disadvantages are wire consumption and labor-intensive work. You can save money if you lay a wire of a thicker cross-section to the central contact from the shield, and thinner wires for connection to sockets. However, this option is called differently - mixed method.

Combined compromise

When connecting sockets in this way, the main cable is laid to the junction box and then to the nearest socket. On this last segment, branches are made for the remaining devices. Advantages - cable savings and greater reliability of the electrical network, since the option provides autonomous operation devices.

The second solution is to lay two cables from the junction box at once. One of them is for a cable that powers, for example, 4 out of 5 sockets. The second is intended for the fifth group, which is going to be used to operate particularly powerful equipment.

What to do with the protective wire?

Grounding is sometimes (and often) done using a sequential method. However, it is not entirely correct, so the PUE prohibits this practice - the use of a daisy chain connection if it is used for protective wires.

The best option is to perform unsoldering (twisting) on ​​the ground wire going to the first socket “in service”. A separate wire is led through it to each element of the block. The only difficulty is placing the protective wires in the first socket box, but for this case you can purchase a deeper product (for example, 60 mm “height”).

Another way is to install an additional socket box, designed to play the role of an installation box. Then they hide it under a cover and camouflage it finishing material. This solution will allow you to make unsoldering/twisting for the phase with zero, equip them with PPE caps, and reliably insulate the wires.

Choosing the Right Method

The decision largely depends on the amount that the owners plan to spend. Other factors are the power of devices that will be connected periodically or work constantly, the presence of decoration on the walls and the degree of readiness to disturb it. Most best way- star connection: either to the main panel or to the distribution box.

For devices that are not very powerful, and which also will not operate hourly, a simple daisy chain connection is suitable. Major renovation or its early planning will make it possible to modernize a house or apartment. In this case, they usually decide which devices are planned for purchase. It is this list of all future (and present) devices that will become an incentive for calculating the required cable cross-section, as well as choosing methods for connecting them.

Installation of sockets

Before looking for how to wire a 4-socket outlet, it is better to become familiar with the requirements and installation process of a simple single device. The fact is that there is no difference in installing double, triple sockets, or devices with a large number nest

Complete blackout is the first condition for any electrical installation work. When installing, be sure to pay attention to the color coding of the wires. Phase wires (L) can be:

• white;
• turquoise;
• brown;
• red;
• orange;
• pink;
• gray;
• purple;
• black.

But still, 3 colors are more often used - white, black or brown. Neutral (N) - zero working contact - blue or blue. Grounding (PE), which is often called “zero protection,” has a shell of yellow and green stripes (longitudinal, transverse), sometimes a yellow-green tint, and can also be purely yellow or only green.

The process of installing sockets looks like this:

1. First, a hole of the required diameter is drilled in the wall for the socket box, and grooves are made for electrical wiring. These operations are not necessary if the task is simple - replacing a failed socket. In this case, pull the end of the power cable out and remove all accumulated debris using a vacuum cleaner or brush.
2. To install the socket box, prepare a cement/gypsum mortar. After applying it, insert the installation box into the hole, pull the cable into it, and fix it flush with the wall. Leave the work until the solution has completely set.
3. Then the insulation is removed from the ends of the wires, they are inserted into the contact mounts (phase - on the left, zero - on the right, protective cable - in the center) and tightened with a screwdriver. Check the connection for strength.
4. The body is installed inside the box, aligned horizontally, and temporarily fixed on both sides with self-tapping screws. The position is corrected using a level, then the fasteners and spacer tabs are tightened, finally fixing the socket body
5. Attach the cover to the body and tighten the central screw. Turn on the electricity and use the indicator to check the functionality of the outlet.

Installing a block of several sockets

The most popular method of connecting single elements among home craftsmen is still the daisy chain method, even despite its shortcomings. In this case, next to the hole with the working cable, several more are drilled (1,2, 3 or 4), located at the same level, so before work it is necessary to apply the correct markings.

For the operation, use a ruler, level and marker (pencil). It is necessary to maintain the distance from the center of each element (72 mm), otherwise the decorative covers will not be able to be installed in place. When gating, the vertical (horizontal) lines are strictly observed and the same level is used for them.

1. In the center of all future holes, indentations are made: first, circles are punched with a crown, then the “excess” is knocked out using a chisel and hammer. If the walls are made of plasterboard, the operation is greatly simplified.
2. The next stage is installing the socket box. It is better to choose models that can be connected to each other. They are fixed with mortar, in drywall - with claws located on the sides of the structures.
3. Turn off the electricity. The cable is pulled out from the first socket box, the braid is removed from it, best tool for this purpose - a mechanic's knife with a heel. Each of the 3 wires is stripped of 10 mm of insulation using a wire remover (stripper).
4. To create a loop, a wire similar to the “originals” is used; there is no other option. Remove the braid from the edge. 200 mm minimum for a block of 2 sockets, the required length depends on the number of holes, so the length is calculated independently. Then the piece is pushed from the second socket box to the last one.
5. The exception is the protective conductor. Since the simple loop method with jumpers for grounding is prohibited by the rules (PUE), branches are made by cutting off pieces of the required length for each socket of the complex. They are connected to the main supply wire, crimped with pliers, and insulated with a heat-shrinkable tube. Then they are placed on the bottom of the box.
6. The ends of the cable are stripped of insulation, then proceed to connecting the first outlet. They do this in the same way: first the phase is on the left, then the neutral is on the right, and grounding is in the center. The terminals are carefully but firmly tightened with a screwdriver. The socket is inserted, slightly aligned, but not secured with screws.
7. Connect the next, second device and follow the same algorithm. Then the third, fourth, etc. After connecting all the elements, check the horizontal (vertical, if this installation method is chosen).
8. The last stage is installation of sockets with self-tapping screws, then stop paws and fixation decorative panels. If there is a common frame, it is tried on, installed, then the covers are fixed one by one in the centers of the sockets. At this point, the question of how to connect a socket with 4 sockets (2, 3 or 5) can be considered in detail.

If such “fuss” is not too impressive, then you can get by with a purchased model - double, triple or quadruple. However, many owners are against this decision. The reasons for the failure are possible savings, the massiveness of such sockets, both buses equipped with two terminals, which sometimes lead to mistakes by novice craftsmen during installation. The result may be a short circuit, and such an emergency will negate all efforts and also destroy the new product.

Since there are two ways to connect a 4-socket outlet, the decision is up to the owners of the house. To get acquainted with all the pitfalls of working with electricity, it is better to look at the exemplary work of other craftsmen. For example, the one shown in this video:

A block of electrical sockets is used to combine household appliances in one place. This is mainly the kitchen or bathroom. The block contains from 4 to 8 landing cells. The design consists of a plastic case with electrical connectors. Modern models have additional grounding contacts. This prevents the risk of a short circuit or a sudden surge in electrical current.

Installation and wiring of the socket block should be done by a professional. Here it is important to observe the polarity of the conductors and produce high-quality insulation. Failure to comply with one of the requirements may result in electric shock or premature failure of household appliances.

Technical features of the socket block

The structure of the socket block is slightly different from a regular socket. Here you can connect up to five electrical appliances simultaneously. Most models are equipped with additional security. They can independently reduce the level of electricity to the desired parameters.

There are two types of blocks on sale:

• Device for hidden electrical wiring. It is fixed in the thickness of the wall using special modules with additional socket boxes. Built-in socket blocks are designed at the initial stage of construction;
• Products for open wiring. They are installed on the plane of the walls. For this purpose, overhead socket blocks and special plates from socket boxes are used. Various designs, allows you to select the required model.

Pull-out socket blocks are especially popular. They can be built into the cabinet structure or kitchen countertop. They slide out easily during use. The main power source is located inside the wall.

Quite often this device is located in the kitchen, where all appliances may be needed at the same time. They are attached to work area at a height of 20 cm. If the structure is installed inside the tabletop, then it has a retractable mechanism.

In the living room and bedroom, sockets are mounted behind the TV or bedside tables. They have from 2 to 4 sections. Models with additional body protection are designed for children's rooms. The photo of the socket block shows modern models electrical circuit.

Connection methods

If you plan to connect an outlet block from one group, then the daisy chain method is used here. This type of wiring can withstand a load that does not exceed 16A. Basically, these are sections of three sockets with additional grounding.

The combined method includes a parallel circuit for connection. Here, two cable lines are laid from the main power source. One of them performs the functions of the loop method. It supplies power to four or six sections of outlets.

The other wire is responsible for maximum power supply to the equipment. It conducts current to the fifth and sixth points. Most often it is used for household appliances with high level power.

The main advantage of this method is the correct distribution of the electricity surge. Each of these points operates independently of neighboring members of the chain.

The main disadvantage of this method is considered complex installation and high costs for cable and its professional installation. These methods can be used for both hidden and overhead types of socket blocks.

The loop method requires laying the cable inside the wall cavity, and the combined method along its surface. Special cable channels increase safety during operation of household appliances. Most channels have additional partitions. Electrical wiring is carefully placed in them.

How to install the socket block yourself?

We bring to your attention instructions for installing a socket block with your own hands. During the work process, it is recommended to maintain a strict order of each action.

Preparing consumables

For this you will need:

• socket block;
• strip for decoration;
• wires;
• socket boxes;
• gypsum solution.

Implement installation work The following tools will help:

• hammer drill with a special attachment;
• building level;
• set for electrical installation work. It includes: screwdrivers, pliers;
• container for mixing gypsum mortar;
• construction spatula.

Markings on the wall surface

Here you need to make accurate calculations, which simplify the task. If the walls are made of plasterboard, then it is recommended to monitor its structure. During work it is important not to damage metal frame. Experienced specialists recommend using a grooved crown whose diameter does not exceed 100 cm.

Seats for future sockets

Here it is necessary to use low rotary hammer speeds. In addition, it is recommended to special attention to the position of the tool. It must be positioned strictly horizontally.

When the hole is made, the remains are carefully removed from it. construction waste and dust. For hidden type of sockets, recesses in the form of grooves are made in the surface of the wall.

Exiting the electrical outlet cable outside the wall

After the cable is removed, the socket outlets begin to be installed. The size of the socket block directly depends on the number of its sections. Excess emptiness is covered up gypsum mortar. This will ensure that the device is firmly fixed inside the wall.

Connecting contents inside

When the plaster is completely dry, begin to connect the internal contents. If a daisy chain connection method is used, then all the wires go to the first socket box. The first step is to clean the ends of the cable from the protective layer. To do this you will need a sharp knife.

Bows are made from wire fragments different colors. The cross-section of these parts should not coincide with the conductors of the electrical line. Each element is insulated using heat-shrinkable cambric.

Wires in the socket

Wires are threaded through the adapters in the socket boxes. After this, the roof is removed from the outlet block. Next, fix the clamping screws. One end of the wire is directed to the first section. Next, they begin to connect the wires to each socket. It is important to observe the polarity of the contacts here.

When all sections are connected, the housing is covered with a protective panel.

Photo of socket blocks

Most often, an outlet block of 2, 3, 4 “electrical points” is installed in the kitchen and in the living room behind the TV. A horizontal or vertical panel of Euro sockets is very convenient, because... allows you to connect an interacting group of household appliances in one place, for example: a TV, audio system and DVD player. Next, we will tell you how to properly install and connect the socket block in the house with your own hands!

What could be the nuance?

Today, the walls in a house can be concrete, wood, brick or plasterboard. Because of this, the installation technology may have its own characteristics - whether you will be cutting concrete in panel house, or simply install an overhead socket block (external) on the surface for open wiring. Next, we will briefly talk about each of the installation options, but you can still find out in more detail in the corresponding article.

Another nuance is that now we are only considering the technology for installing and connecting the socket block. Today there is still combined option: power socket + switch, but we will talk about installing such a combination separately.

Installation instructions

To make it clear to you how to properly install and connect the socket block with your own hands, we will then provide step by step instructions from A to Z with photo examples and visual video lessons.

Step 1 – Preparatory work

First you need to decide where you want to place the outlet group in the room. If this is a kitchen, then it is better to place the socket block above the countertop, so that when connecting the multicooker, microwave oven and another kitchen appliances The cord was long enough. In the living room or hall, it is best to install the product behind the TV to big screen could hide all the cords. If you decide to install a block of two or three sockets in the bathroom, consider important rule– the distance from water must be at least 0.6 meters, and the housings of electrical points must be waterproof. More tips about at this moment You can get it in the article -.

By the way, there is one for the kitchen original version The design of the socket block is retractable. In this case, the mortise body is hidden in the tabletop and opens with a slight pressure. It is very convenient and also safe, so if you wish, we recommend installing exactly this model of product.

Also at this stage you should prepare tools for socket boxes. If the wall is concrete or brick, use a hammer drill with a special crown. Drywall also has its own slotting attachment. In addition, prepare a building level, marker and tape measure.

Step 2 – Marking the walls

Actually very important stage, on which the correctness of further installation and connection will depend. You need to mark the surfaces for installing socket boxes based on how many electrical sockets there will be in the block. The first and very important rule is that the distance between the centers of the socket boxes must be strictly 72 mm. If you make a mistake, when installing the decorative cover it may not fall into place. In addition, make sure that all round grooves are placed in the same horizontal or vertical plane. To do this, we recommend using a building level.

When the walls are marked, you can proceed to gating.

Step 3 – Creating the Strobe

At this stage, you must make seats for the built-in socket boxes. There is nothing complicated here, the main thing is that you have a hammer drill with a suitable attachment at hand. If you decide to install a block of sockets in a concrete or brick wall, first drill the circles with a crown, and then knock out the entire core with a chisel and hammer. The instructions for installing a socket block in concrete are discussed in great detail in the video example below.

How to perform gating brick wall for installation of socket panel

If the walls in your apartment are covered with gypsum plasterboard sheets, it’s even easier - using a hammer drill and a plasterboard crown, cut out round grooves according to the markings.

Installation of glasses in a plasterboard partition

Step 4 – Attaching the socket boxes

The next thing you need to do is install the socket box. Today there are special plastic glasses that can be connected to each other. Connecting socket boxes is not difficult even for a novice electrician.

In brick and concrete walls You need to smear the glasses with plaster mortar yourself. In plasterboard everything is simpler - the socket boxes are pressed against the sheet with special paws on the sides. Again, you can see the essence of installing socket boxes in the article to which we referred at the beginning.

Step 5 – Electrical Connections

When the solution hardens (this applies to walls made of concrete and brick), you can proceed to connecting indoor unit sockets for 220V network with your own hands. It is possible to connect several Euro sockets using a cable from one input cable, unless you are connecting a very powerful household appliances, for example, an electric stove.

So, first, turn off the power to apartment panel, then insert the input wires from the distribution box into the first socket box: phase, neutral and ground. After this, make jumpers to connect the remaining sockets in the block. Connecting a block of 3 or 4 sockets must be done according to this diagram:

A socket with a double connector will provide the ability to simultaneously power two devices connected to separate electrical points. In addition, for each of them there is no need to pull a cable, and it is more convenient to use thanks to the grouped arrangement.

The information offered for review is supplemented with step-by-step photo guides, visual illustrations and videos explaining the nuances of installing and connecting power devices.

The main elements of an electrical outlet are the outer protective casing and the working part, which includes the base and contacts.

They are connected to each other by screw terminals - clamps necessary for connecting the cable of electrical equipment.

The only drawback of double sockets is that it is problematic to connect two high-power electricity consumers through them simultaneously

There is a misconception that double sockets are identical to assembled or dual models and represent several independent devices located close to each other, interconnected by cables.