Typical mistakes when renovating a bathroom and toilet. How to raise a bathtub higher off the floor How to increase the height of bathtub stands

During installation, it is often necessary to raise the bathtub higher above the floor. The need to raise the bathtub may arise, for example, when installing new tiles or if the water leaves the bath too slowly and you need to speed up this process. The exact method in which the bathtub will be raised above the floor depends on its type.

How to lift cast iron bath using bricks

1. To raise a bathtub made of cast iron, you must use either bricks or paving slabs.

It is better, however, to use paving slabs, since they differ more high strength compared to bricks.

2. It is necessary to lay bricks or tiles on the mortar, otherwise the structure may collapse while using the bathroom. The solution cannot be replaced polyurethane foam or sealant.

3. To make the structure more aesthetically pleasing, the outside can be lined tiles for Bath.

How to raise a cast iron bathtub using a frame

1. The frame is made from metal corners.

2. The frame must be welded in such a way that the bathtub rests on it with all four sides.

3. When the bathtub is raised to the desired height, additional supports must be installed under its legs. These supports can be made from wooden blocks or bricks. Bricks must certainly be filled with quick-hardening cement.

To avoid squeezing, you need to place metal spacers under the legs of the bathtub.

How else can you raise your bathtub off the floor?

1. Using a tie. A screed is made in the place where the bathtub should be. It should be higher than the bathroom floor. To make a slight slope, when installing the bathtub on a screed, you need to place either square pipe, or channel.

2. Using washers and steel studs. You will need four fairly wide washers and a steel pin one meter long, size M10. The brick support is drilled through holes. The hairpin is cut into four parts. Each piece of pin is inserted all the way into the legs of the bathtub. Homemade legs are placed in holes made in the bricks.

3. Using long bolts. The threads of the bolts must match the original legs of the bathtub. The bathtub supports are replaced with purchased bolts. Thus, the legs of the bathtub become a little longer, and the bathtub itself is higher.

Acrylic or steel bath can be raised using corners that are attached to the wall.

It is believed that renovating a bathroom and toilet is the most labor-intensive and key stage in renovating an apartment. It is especially difficult if the bathroom, as often happens today, is accompanied by redevelopment: the demolition of the partition between the bathroom and the toilet, the expansion of the bathroom into the corridor, or even the creation of it in the place of the former room. More details on redevelopment issues - what should be taken into account when planning repairs, where you should not blindly rely on the will of the craftsmen, we are already partially. In this article we will highlight interesting points renovation of the bathroom and toilet, which definitely need to be thought about before, and not after.

Preparing the floor for renovation

Preparing the floor is the beginning of your bathroom renovation. As a rule, a floor pie in wet rooms consists of a floor slab (subfloor, fiberglass sheet), double or triple waterproofing, a primer, a leveling screed, an adhesive layer and the tile itself, porcelain stoneware or other moisture-resistant material (for example, marble or granite). It is very important to remember that the floors in the bathroom are subject to increased load - the weight of the tiles is greater than, for example, the weight of the laminate, which can be said about plumbing fixtures. If you live in a house with wooden floors, it is strictly not recommended in this regard to remove old joists, or to fill them (or the space remaining after cutting them) with a deep screed. The weight of such a structure will easily break the lower level wooden floor and will fall on the neighbors' heads. In this case, place base slabs (for example, DSP sheets) on the joists and place only a light leveling screed over them.

When preparing the base of the floor, you need to consider whether your bathroom will have an additional bottom drain in the floor. This grated hole is usually located in one of the corners of the bathtub, and the floor is laid and leveled so that it runs at an imperceptible angle to this hole. An additional drain pipe runs from it leading to a common sewer pipe. Pipes laid in the floor pie should be additionally waterproofed.

If the base for the floor pie is not concrete, but wood, then before further actions, be sure to saturate the subfloor with a special stain that protects against rot, mold and bacteria.

Waterproofing device

The most important stage of renovation in the bathroom is waterproofing. In some Soviet-built houses, the issue of waterproofing was resolved very simply: both the bathroom and the toilet were solid “blocks” - cubes, where there were no seams between the floor and walls, solid concrete. Today, new owners mercilessly break old partitions, after which they are surprised when water quickly leaks to the neighbors at the first pipe break or blockage.

So, waterproofing is done right before the stage of placing tiles or porcelain tiles on the floor and walls - immediately after you have prepared the base for the tiles. The simplest and modern version - coating waterproofing, and it must be done with a 10-20 cm approach to the walls, and applied in two layers. Some contractors recommend waterproofing the rest of the apartment at the same time, that is, applying waterproofing to all subfloors. Of course, this will protect you from claims from your neighbors if, for example, a pipe burst happens in your absence. However, do not underestimate the advantages modern materials: if you waterproof the entire floor extending onto the walls, then when there is a flood, your apartment will look like a single bowl for liquid, which will have nowhere to drain. The ceiling may simply not withstand such a load, and if there are pets in the house, then this is simply dangerous.

Ventilation

Ventilation of wet areas of the apartment is an issue no less important and pressing than waterproofing. Initially, the design of any apartment building means ventilation ducts and ventilation grilles in kitchens and in bathrooms and toilets. Ventilation ducts of the old design, which is no secret, are extremely bulky, and due to them the wall between the toilet and the room can be not 15 cm, but, for example, 65.

But what if this wall also interferes with a brilliant design idea? After all, old apartments cannot boast of convenient layout. So it turns out that ventilation ducts are usually the first to suffer - they are mercilessly cut or simply removed. This not only blocks the air supply to the apartments from below, but also has a bad effect on the climate in your own apartment. Unfortunately, without ventilation, mold and mildew quickly begin to appear in the bathroom; during water procedures, steam accumulates in the room without finding a way out, making it difficult for the bather to breathe and feel well. If possible, try to leave the ventilation grilles in place; if you are creating a bathroom in place of a living room, stretch a sleeve from the bathroom to the existing ventilation hole in which the fan is placed. Unfortunately, the draft in ventilation ducts is small, so if you need to ventilate a remote room, additional mechanical force is required, reminiscent of an exhaust hood.

Heating

An interesting point is the heating of the bathroom. Very convenient are towel dryers made from bent pipes into which hot water from the heating system - they not only dry the air, preventing the formation of steam, but also warm the room, which, due to the material of the walls and floor, can be quite cold.

Electric heated towel rails are not an alternative - they consume too much electricity, which is why they are not intended for constant use, which means you will enter a cold room in the morning. As for underfloor heating - a fashionable solution - it is not suitable for all apartments: both the material of the floors and the permissible load of the electrical network are important. An electric heated floor requires a large amount of electricity, which in old houses can lead to the collapse of the general house system. Water-based heated floor apartment buildings prohibited by law. Thus, modern reality makes it extremely difficult to heat a bathroom - which is why, if your old bathroom already had a heated towel rail powered by a common pipe, you should under no circumstances lose the opportunity to get a legal source of heat and dryness in the bathroom.

If you decide to create a heated floor, there are also some tricks here. For example, despite the fact that in the usual pictures of floor laying the entire space is occupied by cables, in fact you should not lay a heated floor where heavy pieces of furniture or plumbing fixtures will stand. There are no air pockets or voids left in the layer of tile adhesive around the heating part of the cable, and the cable itself cannot be cut “as work progresses” - it should not have breaks. Be sure to take a photo of the laid cable before covering it with tiles - this will be useful if you need to drill holes in the floor or rearrange furniture and appliances.

Drain pipes

Drain pipes are those details that few owners prefer to think about. In the end, a master can take care of this. However, there are also rules here that you can and should think about - it depends on the quality of installation of sewer pipes whether you will have the pleasure of regularly “flooding” your neighbors or repairing blockages. These are the rules:

The diameter of the new drain pipe must match the diameter of the outlet hole in the ceiling. Narrowing of pipes, use of inappropriate sections that fall to hand, leads to the formation of blockages
Drain pipes must slope from top to bottom and minimal amount"knees", that is corner connections. If you find that after repairs the drain will go at an upward angle, ask the workers to create a small pedestal. Be wary of proposals to lower the floor level in the bathroom - first calculate whether this will lead to a change in the angle of the drain.

Access to water meters and other devices

Availability of water meters, taps for shutting off pipes, heated floor sensors upon completion of repairs - important details, which are surprisingly often forgotten. And it’s not surprising, because other masters will have to deal with them. Please note that although the meter can be installed anywhere in the pipe, it must be at the appropriate height, and so that it is possible to easily not only take readings, but also change or repair the meter without breaking the wall or removing plumbing fixtures. Same story - with shut-off valves. Discuss these issues with the master in advance - there are often cases when, after installing all the appliances, builders, without hesitation, place a toilet in front of the hole or cover it with a stand under the sink. By the way, the space under the bathroom is a bad place for any control devices: accessibility will be very difficult.

No matter how much you would like to shift all the technical problems onto the shoulders of the craftsmen, control of the fundamental aspects of the repair on your part is mandatory, since, first of all, your comfort and safety depend on the correctness of the work performed.

The bathroom is usually supplied complete with legs or a frame on which this sanitary product is mounted. When making hot tubs, manufacturers are guided by the fact that the distance from the floor to its side should be about 60-65 cm.

However, sometimes situations arise when the standard height of the bathtub is inconvenient for use or water does not drain well from it. In this case, there is only one way out - to lift it. In this article we will tell you how to raise a bathtub above the floor using the 3 most popular methods, as well as the advantages of each of them.

Why do you need to raise the bathtub?

In general, the standard bath height above the floor is building regulations and the norm should be 60-65 cm. This standard was calculated in accordance with the average height of a person and has been tested for more than one generation.

If the font is installed at this height, then it is convenient and safe to use. However, situations arise when the bathtub has to be raised above the floor. Most often, this procedure is performed to solve the following problems:

Remember that the standard height is calculated and recorded in SNiPs and GOSTs, as it is suitable for most people. However, if there is a need to raise the floor font, this can be done by lengthening the legs, constructing a podium from foam blocks or bricks, or using a frame.

Difficulty lifting the bathtub off the floor

Before raising the bathtub, so that the drain works well, you need to calculate everything well. Flaws in installation can lead to discomfort during washing due to instability of the font, deformation of the walls or bottom of the bowl, and chipping of the enamel.

When choosing a method for raising the bathtub above the floor level, the following nuances should be taken into account:

Note! When choosing the method by which you will lift the bathtub, you need to take into account the 3 most important factors: the material from which the bathtub is made, the height to which the lift will be carried out, and the weight of the model.

Lengthening the legs

The most common way to install bathtubs is to use supports or simply legs. Using this installation option, you can install models made of cast iron, steel and even acrylic. The legs included in the delivery set usually have standard height.

If the legs are made in the form of a screw, then they can be adjusted. If the height of the standard legs is not enough or with the help of them you need to give the bath a slope towards the drain for better water drainage, then they can be lengthened.

To do this proceed as follows:

First, you need to disconnect the drain and overflow from the bathtub and lay it on its side to make it easier to remove the standard legs.
Then you need to remove the old legs, take one as a sample to the store, and then purchase a metal pin of the same diameter, but longer.
Then you need to fix the new screws; if necessary, the height of the knife can be adjusted to give a slope in the direction drain hole.
After this, connect the drain and install the bath in its original position.

Important! This method of lengthening the legs has several disadvantages. Firstly, using this method it is impossible to increase the distance between the floor and the side of the font by more than 5-7 cm. Secondly, the load on the legs increases significantly, which is why they can become deformed. Therefore, when purchasing screws to lengthen the legs, you need to pay attention to the material from which they are made and the cross-section diameter.

Using hard material stands

As we have already figured out, lengthening the legs to increase the height of the bathtub is not the best way. Its main drawback is the small area of the supports, which leads to increased load on the legs, as well as deformation of the walls and chips on the enamel of the bowl.

To increase the area on which a fairly massive plumbing fixture rests, you can use stands made of brick, foam blocks or foam blocks instead of legs. paving slabs. The advantages of this method are considered:

Important! With heavy bathtubs made from easily deformable acrylic bathtubs and heavy cast iron models, you need to do exactly this - install them on posts. This is one of the most good ways installation of hot tubs at non-standard heights. When the bowl is raised on bricks, it stands stable, does not wobble, and does not deform under load.

Frame mounting

If you lift an acrylic bathtub on legs, it may become deformed or even burst under load. To evenly distribute the load and increase the area of support, thin-walled fonts are installed on the frame.

The frame can be made from stainless steel metal corners. It can be prefabricated or welded, and the second option is characterized by increased strength.

Before working on installing the frame, you need to make sure that you have everything you need:

Stainless steel corners, the cross-section of which is sufficient to support the weight of the bathtub.
Grinder with a metal disc.
Welding machine.
Self-tapping screws and anchors for attaching the frame to the walls and floor.
A hammer drill for making mounting holes in the wall and floor.
Screwdriver.
Putty for treating seams to protect against corrosion.

Please note that when we raise the bathtub above the floor using a frame, it is quite difficult to give it a slope. Therefore, this method is suitable in cases where the bottom of the container has a natural slope towards the drain hole, and water flows well.

Video instruction

It is clear that the water does not drain well, because there is no point in fighting against physics...((((We tried to solve the problem by replacing the siphon with the most smooth configuration, without sudden changes. There is some sense, but not much. There is an option to replace the bath siphon with a shower siphon a cabin that discharges water from the bathtub immediately horizontally. But the siphon is not cheap, and there is no certainty that this will help. The sewer pipe is recessed into the wall and covered with tiles, running from left to right across the entire width of the bathroom for almost 2 meters, the bathtub can be raised in height. maximum to the height of one brick (limited by a mixer tap from the wall, it won’t work higher)...

Dear craftsmen and specialists, please tell me what can be done in this situation without removing all the tiles on the wall? If you could film under the bathtub and somehow lower the sewer pipe, it would be perfect option. But we don’t mind raising the bathtub by one brick - as long as the water drains better. Or should we just completely redo everything? I really hope for some useful advice.

Thank you.

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Experts answered the question

Best answer

"then the water is not" leaves badly", A doesn't go away at all

18 answers

You wrote something wrong. If " The sewer drain is 10 cm above the bathtub outlet"then the water is not" leaves badly", A doesn't go away at all, and the water level in the bathroom with the drain open would always be no lower than that same 10 cm. And in addition, you would periodically receive drainage in the opposite direction - from the sewer to the bathroom. And if the diagnosis is incorrect, you are unlikely to receive the right prescription on how to correct the situation. So clarify what you have: the water is bad, but eventually goes away, or does not go away at all (and its level does not fall below 10 or another amount of cm)?

Helpful answer? 2 Yes

The water leaves poorly, slowly... as if in waves. The apartment is new, we don’t live there yet, but the furniture is already in the bathroom, so I can’t get there with a centimeter or a ruler, I only visually assessed the number of cm... maybe I was wrong. But it turns out like this: the bottom of the bathtub is below the bottom edge of the sewer pipe. When installing a siphon of any configuration, this difference increases even more, because the siphon under the bottom becomes... You can do this - maybe it would be more correct: the sewer pipe sticks out of the wall at a height of about 25-30 cm from the floor. And the bottom of the bath is located approximately 15, maximum 20 cm from the floor. When they screwed on the most ordinary siphon, it almost lay on the floor, the water barely escaped at all. We bought another one, as the seller said - the smoothest exit of the siphon to the sewer... It is about 10 cm from the floor. The water began to drain a little better, but still very slowly. I was washing the window, there was some sand in the bucket, I poured it into the bath - I barely washed the sand off...((((

“Sand” in the bathtub should not be poured into the toilet. In general, the siphon (hydraulic seal), no matter what height it is, it simply must be lower than the drainage hole of the sewer and bathtub. Maybe your bathtub has a bad slope?

Helpful answer?

Not really There was very little sand - not washing the floors, the window sill...) I was surprised when I saw the sand... But there should be a slope acrylic bathtub

Helpful answer?

? it was set according to the level...((((as far as I can judge from the lines of the tiles, it stands perfectly level...((((

Helpful answer?

Well, perhaps your bathtub has a slope at the bottom. Try placing a level on the bottom of the bathtub.

Helpful answer? 1 Again, you are giving the wrong numbers in centimeters. If you can't measure accurately, don't guess. And you need to compare the level of the bottom of the bathtub not with the top line of the sewer pipe, but with the lower level of the junction of the bathtub drain pipe and the sewer pipe. This point is definitely below the bottom of the bathtub if the water leaves completely (although you did not provide clear confirmation of the complete removal of water from the bathtub). If a positive height difference is observed, then the rate of water leaving the bathtub depends in direct proportion to the cross-sectional area of the drain pipe. I advise you to consider the option of installing a drain pipe of a larger diameter (and a siphon of the appropriate diameter, of course). But first you need to make sure that the existing pipe with the siphon does not have “bottlenecks” caused by blockages or foreign objects getting into the pipe or siphon. And the diameter of the inlet to the sewer pipe should not be less than the diameter of the drain pipe. 1

The rate of water leaving the bathtub does not depend on the slope of the bottom of the bathtub. With a negative slope, not all the water will simply leave the bathroom: some of it will remain on that part of the bottom area that will be below the level of the drain hole.

Helpful answer? 1 Yes

In short, let's video how the water goes away)

Helpful answer?

Never seen this? So you can photograph the same thing yourself. Or do you have options to offer, depending on what you saw?

Helpful answer?

Thanks, I'll check it tomorrow.

Helpful answer?

Thanks for trying to help. By definition, there cannot be blockages - 10 liters of running water were poured into the bathroom, and it did not drain well. One and a half liters poured from a small bucket did not contain any garbage, the water did not drain well. As for the level of the ratio of water drainage and sewerage, I’ll go in tomorrow and measure it accurately, but I repeat: the lower edge of the sewer pipe is significantly higher than the lower edge of the transition pipe from the siphon to the sewer, and even the bottom of the bath is below the bottom edge of the sewer hole. Nevertheless, I won’t argue, I’ll take a photo tomorrow if I can’t get there with a ruler. Thank you.

Helpful answer?

Raise the bathtub to the maximum, so that the center of the drainage siphon of the bathtub is at least level with the center of the receiving sewer pipe from the wall. If possible, raise the height of the mixer with eccentrics in the “water inlets” (if possible). And so you have a typical counter-slope. The connections for the bathtub sewerage are made from clean floor by about 10-11 cm. Then everything is in order!

Helpful answer?

Now the ways to eliminate the causes of the defect are specifically identified. 1. Ensure the slope of the entire drain line from the bathroom to the sewer pipe. Without this condition, no other measures will help - the drain will not work normally. 2. Increase the diameter of the drain pipe. For example, if the diameter is increased by 40%, the drainage speed will double. But this will only work if step 1 is followed. 3. Changing the slope of the bottom of the bathtub will not affect the drainage speed in any way - this is a false way to find a defect. But, of course, this slope must be towards the drain in order to ensure complete removal bath water.

Helpful answer? 1 Yes

As a rule, a bathtub is sold complete with legs or a special frame on which it is installed. When creating installation elements, manufacturers pay attention to the fact that according to standards, the installation level of a plumbing unit should be about 60 cm. But sometimes it becomes necessary to change this parameter. The only way out is to lift it off the floor.

What is it for

As we already know, the bathtub is mounted at a height of 60 cm. This is enough for convenient and safe use of plumbing fixtures. In some cases, there is a need to raise it above the floor level. This solves some problems:

Poor drainage of water. The bowls are made with a slope towards the drain. This ensures that the water drains by gravity. Therefore, the product is installed parallel to the floor. Unfortunately, errors may occur during the manufacturing process. Failure to comply with the standards leads to the fact that water is not able to drain by gravity. This error can be eliminated only by raising one side.
The need to install additional equipment. On average, after installing plumbing fixtures, there remains approximately 15 cm of free space underneath. This is quite enough for attaching a flat siphon. But, if you need to install a hydromassage pump or other equipment, you will need more free space.
Inconvenient to use. If family members are taller than average, then using a bathtub installed according to standards will be somewhat inconvenient. Exit: raise it above the floor level.

Notice! The bathtub and other plumbing fixtures are installed according to building codes. But you need to take into account that they are intended for people of average height. Therefore, in some cases it is possible to change these standards.

What can interfere

Before deciding how to raise the bathtub higher above the floor, you need to take into account some difficulties that may arise during the work. Installation is complicated by the following factors:

Large weight of the structure. Here everything depends on the material of construction. Cast iron products are the heaviest. Therefore, in the process of lifting a person will encounter some difficulties. This factor must be taken into account when choosing a method for raising plumbing fixtures.
Small area of supporting elements. The bathtub is installed on legs that can withstand light loads. If installed incorrectly, they may become deformed.
Strength and rigidity of the structure. First of all, this concerns acrylic bathtubs. Since the material has low strength and rigidity, the weight of the structure must be evenly distributed between all points of support.

Before lifting the bathtub off the floor, take into account its weight, material and expected installation height.

Leg enlargement

Often, bathtubs are installed on legs or special supports. This method is used with cast iron, steel and acrylic structures. The supporting elements have a standard height. There are also screw products in which the length can be adjusted. Thanks to this, you can solve not only the issue of how to raise it higher, but also give it a slope.

Installation of new leveling feet is carried out in the following sequence:

Disconnect the plumbing equipment from the service and place it on its side. This will allow installation work to proceed smoothly in the future.
Remove old supports. Use one to select a new rack. It should be borne in mind that it must have sufficient strength to easily support weight.
Install new legs and adjust their height. If necessary, a slight slope is made towards the drain hole.
Connect the plumbing to the drain and install it in place. Check the connection for tightness.

This method has some disadvantages. Thus, the bathtub is raised above the floor by no more than 7 cm. The load on the supports increases significantly, which leads to their deformation. Therefore, it is better to choose legs that have sufficient diameter and strength.

Use of bricks and hard materials

If you need to lift to a significant height, then installation on solid materials is a suitable version. The advantages of this method include:

increasing the area of racks;
sustainability;
eliminating structural deformation;
installation of plumbing fixtures at any height;
creating the desired slope.

Basically, this method involves the construction of supports made of brick and other materials that have sufficient strength. Brick stands are constructed using mortar. This allows you to give them stability and strength.

As an addition, walls are used that surround the plumbing around the perimeter. This method makes it possible to perform reliable installation of the bathtub, regardless of its weight. At the same time, it looks quite aesthetically pleasing. The space under the plumbing is completely hidden behind the brick wall.

Important! If materials with low moisture resistance are used for installation, then additional insulation work must be performed. This will protect the supporting elements from negative impact high humidity.

Frame application

Installing an acrylic bathtub, especially at a significant height, has some difficulties. This is due to the fact that the product has low strength. To perform safe and reliable installation, it is recommended to use the frame method. This allows you to evenly distribute the load over the bathtub area.

You can make a frame structure with your own hands from steel corners. For larger ones, it is recommended to use a welded frame, as it has high strength. To make it, you need to have the following materials and tools on hand:

square pipe;
metal corners;
metal saw or grinder;
welding machine.

Manufacturing frame structure carried out in the following sequence:

Take measurements and draw up a design diagram. The design of the frame must be approached very carefully. The main thing to remember is that the main task is to uniformly distribute the load from the bathtub onto the structure.
Make preparations. The frame elements are cut according to the created project. All dimensions must be accurate, otherwise difficulties will arise during the construction of the frame.
Connect the workpieces. Then clean the welding areas and paint the structure. Carrying out paintwork will protect it from high humidity and corrosion.
Place the frame in the chosen location and make sure that it is level. If the bathtub has a manufacturing defect (insufficient slope), then install the structure at a slight slope. Of course, such a factor should be provided for at the stage of creating the frame.
Install the bathtub and connect it to the drain. Check the connection for tightness.

To add aesthetics, the frame is hidden behind decorative panels. Peculiarity frame installation is that you can use it to install any bathtub. The frame is often used in cases with acrylic products.