Electrical diagram of the heater. What to do if the oil heater stops working? Checking the vertical position sensor

A thermostat is a device for automatic control temperature conditions, installed on heating equipment. Using a heater without a thermostat is inconvenient, since you will have to constantly turn on the device manually depending on whether it is cold or hot in the room. Besides manually It will not be possible to preheat the room, for example, before returning home from work.

It should also be noted that appliances that are not equipped with regulators pose a fire hazard if they are left on for a long time. And finally, the thermostat allows you to optimize energy consumption in the room, since the automation turns on the equipment only when it is really needed.

Types of thermostats

There are three types of regulators:

• electronic;
• electromechanical;
• mechanical.

Below we will briefly look at the characteristics of each of them.

Electronic regulators

Thermostat with electronic stuffing has three components:

• temperature sensor;
• microprocessor responsible for processing and transmitting information;
• thermal relay, thanks to which control switching is carried out.

The main advantage of electronic regulators is high accuracy, with which the room temperature is determined, effective and simple temperature control.

Electronic thermostats are used not only in oil heaters, but also to organize the control of larger heating systems (for example, a “smart home”).

Electromechanical regulators

Electromechanical devices based on relays are much simpler than electronic devices. There are several types of electromechanical regulators:

1. Devices of the first group include a group of contacts and a double metal plate. When the equipment heats up, the plate bends and, thus, opens the group of contacts. The consequence of an open circuit is to stop the flow of electricity to the heating plate. When the heater cools, the plate returns to its starting point, and the electrical circuit begins to operate as before, since the contacts are closed again. Cyclic operation allows you to maintain the temperature level at approximately the same level.
2. Devices equipped with relays operate on the principle of expansion of its elements as a result of heating. The relay is a cylindrical tube containing a substance that is responsive to heat. The pipe is in a container of water. When the temperature of the heater increases, the substance in the pipe expands. When the temperature reaches a certain value, the expanded content affects electrical circuit using a drive, resulting in the closing or opening of contacts. This way it is possible to avoid overheating of the equipment.

Mechanical

Mechanical type regulators are the simplest. Such thermostats are ordinary shut-off valves. The design of the device includes a cylinder with a rod, which is filled with a thermally sensitive substance. As a result of the expansion of the substance when heated, the rod partially or completely blocks the flow of coolant in the system.

Typical failures of oil heaters

Before you begin to fix the problem, you need to diagnose it. Below are some tips to help you find out the cause of the problem:

1. A cracking sound after switching on does not mean a breakdown. More likely, we're talking about about heating the oil inside the radiator. The cracking noise can also be a result of the heater being tilted or dropped, resulting in the displacement of oil and air. Installing the equipment on a perfectly flat surface will help reduce noise levels.
2. If the radiator does not turn on, you need to eliminate the socket from the list of potential problems by connecting the device to another source of electricity. Based on the severity of the breakdown, it can be arranged in the following sequence: loose contact, problem with the plug, damage to the cord.
3. If the device shows external signs of operation (indicator lights are on, fans are spinning), but does not heat up, the problem is most likely in the thermostat. You can replace this part yourself.
4. Lack of heating may also indicate a malfunction heating element. In this case, it is not recommended to carry out repairs on your own; you will need the help of a qualified specialist.
5. A malfunction of the thermostat can be said when the heater does not turn off after reaching the required temperature.

Electrics

If the cause of the breakdown is electrical, you will need a special device - a multimeter.

Using this device we check:

• serviceability of the plug and socket;
• no short circuit between the heater elements.

Often the problem is the burnout of wires at their connection points. We de-energize the equipment and check all the switch keys.

To check, use a multimeter in the following positions:

• in the “on” position there will be a short circuit;
• in the off position there will be no reaction.

We check the regulator using a multimeter. The resistance level should be negligible if there is no short circuit.

We disassemble the housing and assess the condition of the contacts in the control unit: they may be loose, burnt out or oxidized. If the contacts are oxidized, treating them with alcohol, as well as sanding and insulating them will help. The best insulator is fiberglass insulating tape that can withstand temperatures of 200 degrees. We tighten the loose contacts with a screwdriver, and replace the burnt ones. After working with the contacts, we check the equipment again for a short circuit.

Thermal fuses

There may be several fuses. After ringing and finding a blown fuse, remove it. We install a new fuse and insulate the wiring.

Bimetallic plate

If the plate has become deformed, it needs to be replaced.

Procedure:

1. Let's disassemble the thermostat.
2. Set the heating temperature to minimum.
3. Remove the thermostat handle from the screw, unscrew the nuts, and remove the frame.
4. We replace the bimetallic plate with a new one.

Severe damage to the plate often causes an oil leak.

Oil leak

In this case, tank repair will be required. This is not always justified, since the tank is easier to replace. However, if you decide to carry out repair work, the following nuances must be taken into account:

Heating element malfunction

This part of the oil cooler cannot be repaired; it must be replaced. However, replacing the heating element is only possible if it is removable. The new part is selected based on the required power. Best material, from which high-quality heating elements are made, is copper.

When installing the heating element, pay attention to the junction of this part with the body. The gasket should be treated with sealant, although repeated sealing will probably be necessary in the future. It is possible to install a new heating element on a non-separable structure, but in this case it will be very difficult to roll an already flared part.

Position sensor

This safety element is a load that, when its angle changes, causes automatic shutdown device. To check the operation of this part, you need to put the heater on its side and ring the contacts. If the sensor is faulty, it cannot be repaired.

When choosing a thermostat, it is recommended to give preference to well-established manufacturing companies, since this part is part common system and its malfunction can cause an emergency situation in the premises. It is also necessary to take into account all the features proper organization heating system, including room area and equipment power.

Oil-filled electric heaters are popular units in everyday life, characterized by high durability, since their production is carried out in industrial conditions using modern technologies. However, these electrical appliances are not designed to withstand all emergency situations in everyday life and still fail.

The design of even the most modern unit allows, in some cases, to repair oil heaters yourself.

Household oil-filled heating electrical appliances: on the left - flat, on the right - ribbed.

Let's consider this popular household heater from the perspective of assessing the possibility of restoring it after failure, since an oil heater needs to be repaired with a guarantee of the safety of its further operation.

Common oil heater malfunctions, their symptoms and repair methods

Troubleshooting an oil-filled electric heater, as well as repairs infrared heater any other type, requires certain skills and compliance with a number of rules.

Important! If any of the structural elements of the oil heater fail, operation of the heater must be stopped until the malfunction is eliminated.

First of all, you should be aware that restoring the functionality of most of the components of this heating device at home is impossible or requires professional knowledge and skills. Experimenting with failed electrical components is fraught with unpredictable consequences (electrical injury, thermal injury, fire, explosion), so repairing an oil heater with your own hands, without professional training, in most cases should only be done by replacing the part that has become unusable.

In addition, when repairing an electric heater, the following rules must be followed:

• the device must be unplugged from the outlet;
• the heater must be cooled to room temperature;
• instrument equipment homemade components forbidden;
• Avoid contact of transformer oil with the body, as well as with the wiring insulation;
• Replacing a standard power supply cable with a grounding conductor with a wire without grounding is prohibited.

Oil leak

A leak in the oil cooler usually occurs due to mechanical damage or as a result of corrosion caused by a defect in the protective paint coating.

When a long-used, familiar oil radiator leaks, a natural question arises: what to do, why not try to restore its tightness with your own hands?

However, repairing an infrared heater on your own in case of a leak is only possible if the device is an old-style domestically produced unit with a steel radiator flat design and a removable heating element.

To carry out repairs, the control unit, under which the heating element is located, is disconnected from the device body. Then, after disconnecting the contacts, the heater is unscrewed and the oil is drained through the mounting socket into a clean container. The remaining oil is allowed to drain, after which the radiator is filled with water to prevent the oil inside from igniting.

The wall thickness of such radiators is 1-1.2 mm, which allows the use of electric welding. The leakage area on the body is cleaned with a grinder with a grinding disc or manually with coarse sandpaper. Depending on the location and size of the damage, a patch of steel of appropriate thickness is cut out, applied to the hole and scalded using a Kemppi semi-automatic machine.

The welding seam is cleaned and ground, after which, if necessary, it is welded again. After degreasing, the repair area is painted with heat-resistant paint, for example, Rustins High Heat Black Pain.

Important! If the heater is painted using powder technology, then during production repair work you need to strive for minimal damage to the coating - it is impossible to restore it under domestic conditions.

After the paint has dried, the radiator is filled 80% with oil, and the heater is assembled in the reverse order.

If the oil heater clicked when heating before the repair, you should not expect that the clicks will disappear after the seal is restored - the mating parts of the housing are deformed when the temperature rises and at the same time crack.

Repairing radiators of finned oil heaters is not advisable, since they are made of thin sheet steel using laser welding. Restoring the tightness of such tanks is technically difficult, does not guarantee success in domestic conditions, or is comparable in cost to the cost of a new heater. In addition, if the heating element is non-removable, then the oil can be drained through damage, but it will no longer be possible to fill it back.

No heating

A technically sound oil-filled household heater makes a quiet noise when plugged in. This factor is not dangerous, as it is caused only by the expansion of the assembled body of the unit, which clicks when heated.

If, after turning on the unit and installing required values power and temperature, the heater is silent, which means that the radiator does not heat up, and the fault should be looked for in the electrical part.

First of all, visually inspect the integrity of the electrical cable. If there is no visible damage, you must first remove the racks with wheels from the lower part of the unit body.

Then you need to disconnect the control unit from the radiator, for which purpose, using a screwdriver, pry up and remove the standard plate on top of it with the inscription Do not cover, under which there are fastening screws.

Having unscrewed the fasteners from above, the screws in the lower part of the control unit are also released or the fixing springs are unfastened (depending on the model), the shell is removed from the edge of the junction of the block with the radiator, and the dismantled unit is laid down inside out.

Perform a visual inspection of the integrity of the wiring and insulation, as well as the quality of contacts at the junctions of the wires, paying attention to areas with kinks and oxidation. A wire with obvious internal damage is replaced with a new one, the oxidized contacts are disassembled, cleaned with sandpaper and reassembled.

Upon completion of the visual inspection, they begin to “test” the components using a tester - a multimeter, which begins with testing the cores of the wire section from the plug to the nearest connection. The operation is simplified different colors lived in the cable of an electrical appliance, which makes it easy to trace the direction of the wiring.

The sound signal from the tester indicates the integrity of the area being called, while the absence of a signal indicates damage.

Replacing the Tubular Heater

The heating element, in addition to heating elements, is equipped externally with current and temperature fuses, the presence of which must be taken into account when dialing. It is possible that, with a working heating element, one of these fuses burned out, or even both failed.

If testing nevertheless reveals a failure of the tubular heater, then further actions depend on the method of installing the heating element in the radiator. The threaded fastening of the heater in the absence of rolling allows its replacement. In this case, the heating element is unscrewed from the radiator, and in its place, with the replacement of the sealing gasket, a heater with identical parameters in terms of power and shutdown temperature is installed.

With a non-removable installation option, the heater is rolled into the radiator socket. In domestic conditions, it is very difficult to flare an old heating element and install a new heating element by sealing it, so you should think about buying a new oil heater.

Temperature controller malfunction

Testing this node is done as follows:

• ring the section of the chain from the plug to the thermostat;
• the regulator is set to the minimum temperature value and tested - the circuit must be open;
• when turning on each of the heaters individually, as well as two heating elements simultaneously, when setting the temperature regulator to a value other than zero, the circuit must be closed.

If a continuity test of the thermostat shows its malfunction, that is, the oil heater does not respond to switching power modes or changing the temperature by turning the flywheel, the device must be replaced, since diagnosing it technical characteristics with subsequent repairs based on the results of testing in an industrial environment are not advisable, and it is extremely difficult to do this in a domestic environment.

If there are no malfunctions, the regulator is cleaned of dust and the contacts are tightened.

Failure of the bimetallic strip

The question of whether an oil heater can explode is relevant, since the oil pressure in the radiator reaches high values, and the air “cushion” in the form of 20% of its volume still has limited potential. To prevent this from happening, the heater design contains a thermal relay, which should turn off the heater if it overheats.

Under normal conditions, this relay, which is a bimetallic strip, should complete an electrical circuit. If the multimeter detects an open circuit in this thermal fuse, then it should also be replaced with a new one with identical characteristics.

Oil heaters explode extremely rarely precisely because they have several degrees of protection that duplicate each other, and the likelihood of simultaneous failure of all safety devices is low.

No heater shutdown when tipping over

Opening the electrical circuit when the oil heater is tilted or tipped over is ensured by a device whose operating principle is based on the presence in its design of a suspended weight, which retains its position when the unit deviates from the vertical.

Testing of this device is carried out by manually deflecting the heater from the vertical. If the device does not turn off, the element must be cleaned of dust and removed, or better yet, replaced with a new one, the installation of which is not difficult.

It should be noted that if the protective switch fails, the oil heater does not explode - if heating elements that are not covered with oil overheat, the thermal protection of the tubular heater is triggered, or the thermal relay opens the electrical circuit.

Conclusion

An oil radiator is a device, the malfunction of which can be independently diagnosed, but it is better to minimize the repair of this device on your own before replacing failed parts with new ones, since the operating features (hazard factor of use electric current, high blood pressure and oil temperature) require professional skills and increased attention to the work.

This video will help you get a better understanding of how to repair oil-filled IR heaters:

The main point of the article

1. An oil-filled heater is a unit in demand by consumers, the design of which does not contain complex technical solutions.
2. All oil radiator malfunctions can be diagnosed independently, but most failed parts must be replaced with new ones.
3. If the radiator is leaking, then restoring the tightness of the tank will be effective only for flat-type heaters of domestic production.
4. Experiments with the restoration of failed components are dangerous; in most cases, it is necessary to install new parts - real examples, when the oil heater exploded, there is enough.
5. Proper care of IR heaters and compliance with operating rules is the key to many years of use of the heaters without the need for repairs.

There are no people who do not have electric heaters. Simple or complex, cheap or expensive, high quality and not so good - they all fail sooner or later. Before you take your broken device to a service center or call a familiar electrician, you should think about whether to try to fix the breakdown yourself.

DIY heater repair

Before disassembling the heater and looking for a fault inside, you need to make sure that the outlet it is connected to has voltage. For this purpose, use a multimeter or a known good one. household appliance. The outlet contacts must hold the plug firmly. Loosening and oxidation of socket contacts is a concomitant defect when using powerful household appliances.

Next, let's check it ourselves mains plug. Its contacts must be clean, without traces of carbon deposits, and the insulation around it must not be deformed as a result of overheating. The plug contacts can be cleaned with a knife or fine sandpaper. But it is better to replace both the plug and the socket when such defects are detected.

When used frequently or when the power cord becomes coiled the wires inside it break. This happens in two problem areas: at the plug and at the entrance to the heater. You can determine if the wires are broken by touch: at the fracture site, the cord bends a little easier than in another place. But it is better to use a multimeter for this. If the heater has not yet been disassembled, then you need to turn on its power switch. Set the device to the low resistance measurement limit and connect it to the power contacts of the plug. For a working heater, the device should show a low resistance value. If the device does not show anything, slightly bend the cord at the suspected break point from side to side. If the device at least once tried to display the resistance value, the cause of the malfunction has been found.

If there is a break in the power plug, it is cut off and replaced with a new one. If it is a heater, the wire is cut at the break point and reconnected inside it. It is not recommended to use twists and other connections, as they become a weak point and will remind you of themselves again.

If the power plug and cord are working properly, and there is voltage in the outlet, you will have to disassemble the heater. In this case, the plug must be disconnected from the network; disconnecting using the heater controls is not enough.

Heater temperature regulator

Temperature adjustment is carried out in all heaters. The heating elements are connected to the network through a contact controlled by a bimetallic plate. When the heater is connected to the network, the plate heats up and bends; at a certain temperature, the bending force becomes sufficient to disconnect the contact to which it is connected. The contact is disconnected, the plate cools down, occupying its original position, the contact closes again, and the process is repeated again. A knob is installed on the body of the heaters to regulate the switching moment of the plate and the temperature maintained by the device.

The contacts of this switch often burn out. You can find out by ringing them with a multimeter in a cold state or visually: the contact surface should be smooth and even, without traces of soot.

The contacts need to be cleaned with a knife blade or a small file, but carefully: sometimes a layer of silver or other metal that is resistant to switching is applied to them.

There are malfunctions associated with the breakage of the regulator spring, then it is replaced with a new one or a similar one taken from another heater.

Types of heaters and switching circuits

Heaters differ from each other in electrical circuits, types of heating elements, their number and the presence of a fan forced circulation air.

Most simple heater consists of a heating element, cord and plug. You will only have to disassemble it to replace or repair the cord or diagnose the serviceability of the heating element. The heating element is checked by measuring its resistance with a multimeter. It should be no more than 100 Ohms (for a 500 W heater); with increasing power, the resistance decreases. If the multimeter shows a break, the heating element is replaced with a new one.

The heater has a more complicated switch or key to turn on the power. Sometimes a light bulb is added to the key to illuminate it when the device is turned on. An additional complication of the repair in this case is to ring the switch contacts with a tester in the on position. The device should show units of Ohms or zero; if it shows a break or hundreds of Ohms or more, the element needs to be replaced. If the heater is vitally necessary, the switch is excluded from the power circuit by securely connecting the wires to each other. But over time, it is better to replace it, since in this case the contacts of the socket and plug will inevitably burn out when the device is turned on.

The following circuit additionally includes thermal fuse. It fails when overheated and requires replacement. But at the same time, it is worth analyzing the reason for its operation: Whether the heater was covered with something and overheated, or was operated at high voltage. The assembled device must be connected to the network and tested in operation. If the thermal fuse trips again, you will have to change the heating element. In some models, a tilt sensor or a sensor is connected together with a thermal fuse, which turns off the device when objects get inside.

Some heaters use two heating elements. To switch them, either two keys or a switch are used. The heating elements are installed at different powers, then when you turn on one of them or both of them together, you can get three different heater powers.

Here you need to check each of the heaters and their power switches.

The following diagram applies to fan heaters. In addition to heating elements, an electric motor with a fan impeller is installed on them, directing warm air in the desired direction.

An oil cooler breakdown can happen unexpectedly and at a very inopportune moment. If oil stains appear on the housing, the device should be immediately unplugged from the network and think about purchasing a new heat source. In case of other malfunctions, the device can be brought back to life with the help of a specialist or independently. It is recommended to undertake repair of an oil heater with your own hands only if you have basic knowledge in the field of electrical engineering, without forgetting about compliance with safety regulations.

Major failures of oil radiators

Any repair begins with diagnostics. It is important to correctly determine the cause of failure and calculate the faulty part.

1. Do not be alarmed if the heat source begins to make a cracking noise immediately after being turned on. This usually happens during warm-up mineral oil located inside. Crackling is considered normal and does not affect the operation of the electrical appliance. Sometimes moving the radiator to a perfectly level place helps reduce noise.
2. If the heater stops turning on, the first thing you should do is rule out a breakdown in the outlet and plug the device into another power source. The most common failure in this case is a loose contact, in second place is a malfunction of the plug, and in third place is damage and breaks in the cord.
3. If the heater shows signs of operation (indicators light up, fans turn on), but does not heat up, the cause should be sought in the thermostat. This spare part is easy to buy and replace with your own hands.
4. A cold case may also indicate that the heating element is out of working order - this is a rather serious reason and it is not recommended to fix it yourself.
5. If the device does not turn off after heating to the set temperature, this may indicate a malfunction of the thermostat - such work becomes not only uncomfortable and dangerous, but also uneconomical in terms of energy consumption.

Repair tools: screwdriver and multimeter

DIY troubleshooting

The oil radiator is a non-separable structure, so you must not break the sealed housing of the device when trying to replace a faulty heating element. DIY repair oil heater is possible only at the level of the cord, plug and control unit. To the delight of home craftsmen, the most frequent breakdowns occur in these places. In order not to get confused in spare parts, it is recommended to group all fasteners and parts and make step by step photos during operation - this will make it easier to assemble the device in reverse order.

Electrical diagram oil heater

The heater does not turn on: procedure

First of all, the cord is inspected and carefully palpated, trying to detect any kinks. If the cord has been in a bent state for a long time, most likely a defect has formed in this area. The plug, if its design allows, is disassembled and the integrity of the contacts is checked. Most often, the problem is hidden at the point where the pins of the plug meet the ends of the current-carrying wires of the cord.

If there are no visible signs of failure on the cord and plug, you should use a special device - an ohmmeter and “ring” the cable. It is also necessary to audit the connection electric wire with the power supply terminals and check the condition of the unit by first removing the decorative cover of the front panel. Detected carbon deposits are removed by thoroughly cleaning the elements. Loose fasteners are carefully tightened, restoring contacts. If you have a new power cord with a socket in stock, you may notice an aged cable with it.

Checking the contacts in the power supply

In order not to disassemble the power supply a second time, it is recommended to immediately inspect the thermostat. To gain access to this module, you need to slightly lift the armature of the device and inspect the contacts. Darkening indicates that there was a short circuit in the electrical appliance. Its consequences can be easily eliminated by cleaning the electrical contacts with sandpaper and treating with alcohol. Small debris generated during the cleaning process is removed from the unit with a vacuum cleaner.

Checking the functionality of the thermal fuse

Damaged tires are also subject to replacement - new blanks can be easily cut from a sheet of brass of the same thickness, using the old parts as a template. Holes for fasteners are drilled with a drill. The temperature regulator has bimetallic plates, which, if damaged, must be replaced. To remove the plate, disassemble the thermostat by carefully and sequentially unscrewing all the nuts.

The radiator heats up excessively or does not heat well

These polar problems have one root - a malfunction of the thermostat. To find the cause, an important module is disassembled and carefully inspected. The safest thing to do is to replace this part by looking for spare parts for oil heaters on sale. You can try to adjust the settings yourself by setting the armature stroke within 1.5-2.5 mm. Ideally, it should move abruptly from the magnet to the stop.

Thermostat for oil cooler

Another important spare part: thermal relay

After completing the repair, the device is assembled and connected to the network. The absence of the expected result is a reason to contact a specialist or an eloquent hint that it is time to purchase a new electric heater. It is strongly not recommended to replace heating elements at home, as well as welding and soldering a damaged housing.

Regardless of the quality, sooner or later, almost all electric heaters begin to heat poorly, do not turn on, or no longer heat at all.
Repairing an electric heater yourself is not very difficult, since this class of devices is often not considered a complex device.
In everyday life, people use a wide variety of electric electric heaters: electric infrared fireplaces, convectors, fan heaters and a variety of oil radiators. For all such devices, regardless of design features, the heating element is nichrome.

It should be noted that what simpler design heater, the longer such a device will work, and it will be easier for the husband to figure out the breakdown and repair it.

Device

Immediately after the power cord and plug there may be a protective thermal fuse that will automatically turn off the heater after overheating, for example, if you cover the convector on top with a towel.
There may also be a tilt sensor that will work if, for example, the convector falls or overturns.
In addition to the thermal fuse, it may also be " circuit breaker" - overload current fuse, for other emergency situations.

schematic design of heaters

Diagnostics and troubleshooting of the heater

In addition to the serviceability of the heater elements themselves, the cause of the breakdown may also be poor and unreliable contact of the conductors; over time, due to differences in materials, they oxidize and rot, so that at this moment you should also pay attention.
Then they check protective elements: position sensor and thermal fuse.

Thermal fuse they call the tester; in a serviceable and cold state, there should be zero resistance (short circuit) on its contacts.
There can be several such thermal fuses in one housing and, as a rule, the larger the housing, the more thermal fuses it contains.
It should be noted that the thermal fuse may be working (functional), but due to severe contamination of the filters and convection holes, they can immediately trip and turn off the heater.

What is it like? position sensor, so this, in most designs, is some kind of weight that, when the heater is tilted or dropped, acts on a mini switch that already opens the voltage. A working position sensor, in the normal vertical position of the heater, should have zero resistance (short circuit) on its contacts.
The main decisive point will be checking the heating heating element ov. In large heaters there are usually several of them, most often there are two. And often the reason for insufficient heating of the room is the failure of one of the heating elements.
In most cases, the heating element cannot be repaired and is replaced with a similar one.
How to check the heating element? The resistance at its contacts may vary, depending on the specific device, but it should definitely ring. Approximate resistance values ​​can be in the range of 20 - 100 Ohms.

Main malfunctions of heaters

The heater does not turn on.
There may be several reasons. The socket, plug and electrical cord must be checked. Then disassemble and make sure there is mains voltage inside the device; it is best to use a 40W test light for this.
Check the voltage in the series circuit, thermal fuse, thermostat, thermal switch, heating element
Testing under voltage should be carried out carefully or use the resistance testing method (with a multimeter) without voltage.

The fan heater turns on but does not heat.
The heater blows air but does not heat it, this situation clearly indicates a malfunction of the heating element, one of the sections of the spiral may be damaged, it is necessary to carefully inspect the entire length of the nichrome conductor, and also ring the heating element itself with a tester, the resistance should be somewhere around 70 Ohms .
In the event of a visible break or burnout of the nichrome conductor, you can try to restore it by slightly pulling the broken conductors to the center and carefully twisting them together with a reserve, then securely inserting the “connection” back, but so that it does not move or close during operation randomly onto adjacent turns of the spiral.
Also, the reason for this operation may be a thermal fuse or bimetallic plates of the thermostat. In a cold state, they must be closed; sometimes it becomes necessary to strip them to improve the reliability of contact. Serviceable bimetallic plates should open from the heat of the soldering iron.

The fan heater heats up but the fan does not spin (does not blow).
If the blades are in good working order and are not wedged anywhere, then most likely the cause is the engines.
But still, first you need to make sure that there is voltage supplied to the engine. Make sure that its shaft rotates easily and effortlessly.
Next, you can check the engine with a multimeter; its contacts should ring and show at least some resistance.
If necessary, the motor can be disassembled and inspected inside, possibly heavy pollution. Ring the windings, clean the commutator unit and inspect the tightness of the brushes. It may be necessary to apply machine oil to the bushings of the moving part of the engine.
If the windings burn out, the motor must be replaced.

The heater turns off (due to overheating)
There may be several reasons. For example, a large heating area and a low-power convector, as a result permanent job the case and internal elements overheat, including overheating protection elements that turn off the device.
In other cases, the cause may be improper installation of the convector. It is necessary to organize a free flow of incoming air to the lower part of the heater and a free outflow of hot air from the upper part of the convector; there is nothing to cover it with and not to create resistance to the release of heat from the convector.

The oil cooler is leaking.
Self-repair in such cases is a difficult and thankless task. Adhesives and sealants are useless in this case.
To seal the holes, it is necessary to drain the oil, fill with water and use inverter welding for thin sheets. Boil the hole, first clearing the area of ​​paint and corrosion.
If oil leaks constantly, you should understand that the oil will still need to be added, since for efficient work Such a heater requires the presence of 90% of the oil volume from the total capacity of the oil “tank”, the rest of the space should be occupied by air, it plays the role of a kind of pillow when the oil expands when heated.