How to make a hood in a bathhouse - design and installation of ventilation. Natural ventilation in a bathhouse: principles of arrangement and layout of ventilation holes A program for calculating ventilation in a brick bathhouse

Ventilation in a bathhouse is a mandatory design element. Without proper air exchange and fresh air flow, even the highest quality wooden building can become completely unusable in 2-3 years. However, even in this short period of time, steamers will have to enjoy such “delights” as dampness, bad smell, lack of fresh air.

Therefore, the installation of a ventilation system must be approached with all responsibility. It's not difficult. Moreover, in most small private baths (especially with the “Russian bath” mode), natural ventilation is the most optimal. And its construction, unlike its forced analogue, will not require the installation of expensive fans. And in some baths it is generally created “on its own” - only due to a suitable design of the steam room.

How does the natural ventilation system work?

Natural ventilation is driven by air convection, which occurs when there is a difference in pressure (temperature) in the room (bath) and outside.

According to the laws of physics, heated air in a room always rises, and cold air descends to the floor. The main task of ventilation in a bathhouse is to provide an influx of fresh air (cold) and displace exhaust air (warm). Therefore, when planning natural ventilation, the supply opening is usually located below the exhaust opening. Then the warm air rises and comes out through the exhaust shaft. At the same time, a vacuum (low pressure) is created in the room and fresh cool air is drawn in through the inflow near the floor. Gradually it warms up again, rises and displaces a portion of exhaust air through the hood. This ensures continuous convection and natural ventilation.

Vents, vents, and a stove chimney can be used as hoods in a bathhouse with natural ventilation. The flow of air is carried out through the crowns of the walls (in log baths), slightly open doors, and ventilation holes. Both inlet and exhaust openings(vents, vents) are equipped with shutters or adjustable grilles. This helps control the air exchange in the room and prevent drafts.

There are several options for natural ventilation. Each of them has its own advantages, special functionality and some restrictions on use.

Option #1. Burst ventilation - ventilation

In small Russian baths, burst ventilation is common. This is ordinary ventilation, which is performed either after bath procedures or between visits to the steam room. Burst ventilation promotes rapid air change and drying of steam room surfaces.

During burst ventilation, the role of ventilation holes is played by a door and a window located on opposite walls. To change the air, they are opened for a short time after steaming (or between visits to the steam room). Depending on which direction the pressure difference is directed, air will move from the window to the door or vice versa.

The role of burst ventilation is to freshen the air in the steam room, but not to cool the walls. Therefore, the ventilation time is short - 1-2 minutes is enough.

Option #2. Ventilation with outflow through the chimney

A stove-heater with a chimney can become a driving force for ventilation. When fuel burns, exhaust air is drawn into the stove ash pan and exits through the chimney. In order to allow fresh air to flow in, make a gap of about 5-10 mm at the bottom of the door. Or they don’t close it tightly during procedures. In log-house bathhouses, when the fire burns in the stove, air from the street is drawn in through loosely fitted lower rims.

Ventilation by means of air outflow through the chimney is only possible while maintaining the fire in the stove. If fuel combustion is not maintained during vaping (for example, in black saunas or in a short-term oven), air change will not be performed. A more versatile ventilation system will be required.

Option #3. Air exchange through vents

Air exchange performed through special vents is a universal type of natural ventilation. It allows you to gradually change the air in the steam room several times during the steaming period (ideally 5-6 times per hour). With proper planning of such ventilation, drafts and a decrease in surface temperature will not be observed.

The exhaust vent is usually located under the ceiling, above the top shelf. It measures 15-20 cm and can be square or round. The hood is closed with a removable plug or a sliding damper (door), with which you can change the size of the hood and the degree of air exchange.

A few more rules:

• It is not advisable to place ventilation holes at the same level opposite each other. There is a high probability that fresh air entering the steam room will immediately fly out into the hood. This excludes full air circulation, but leads to the formation of a draft.
• The linear dimensions of the hood, ideally, should coincide with the dimensions of the inlet opening. Or be more. If the size of the hood deviates downward, new clean air will not enter the bathhouse.
• If you want to increase the outflow of exhaust air, the size of the hood makes it larger than the supply vent. Or they arrange 2 hoods for 1 supply hole.

For influx clean air In the steam room, an inlet opening is installed, usually 0.2-0.4 m from the floor surface. It can be on the same wall as the hood, or on the opposite side. It is advisable to be near the stove so that the incoming air has time to heat up and enters the steaming zone already warm. The inlet opening is covered with a ventilation grill so that air is drawn into the room in separate streams and not in a continuous stream.

Step-by-step installation instructions

The classic operating procedure is as follows:

1. Two holes with transverse dimensions of 100-200 mm are made in the walls of the bathhouse. It is advisable to form vents at the construction stage, so that later you do not have to carve them into the finished walls. One hole is made behind the stove (or next to it), at a distance of 20 cm from the floor. The other is on the opposite wall, diagonally, at a distance of 20 cm from the ceiling.
2. Boxes are installed in the holes. They can be bought ready-made - made of metal or plastic. In log baths, it is better to use wooden boxes made from boards.
3. Place on the inlet opening ventilation grille, on the exhaust - a valve. If one of the holes faces the street, an insect net is installed on the outside of the box.

But this order of work is not the only correct one - it all depends on what kind of structure you have and what kind of air duct scheme you have chosen.

Advantages and disadvantages of such a system

Among the advantages of natural ventilation, the most significant are:

• simple device and easy installation;
• low cost - natural ventilation does not require the installation of expensive forced fans;
• economical operation - allows you to avoid spending on electricity;
• reliability - the absence of mechanical devices makes natural ventilation practically “eternal”, not subject to breakdowns and not requiring repairs.

There are also disadvantages:

• dependence of the ventilation strength on the temperature difference in the steam room and outside;
• in autumn and winter, cold air coming from the supply openings reduces the temperature in the steam room, and drafts may occur;
• smells from the street.

Agree, the shortcomings are insignificant. In a small bathhouse located on its own site, natural ventilation is the most rational decision. If there are no swimming pools or large washrooms inside, there is no point in overpaying for mechanical fans (for forced air exchange). If for some reason natural ventilation does not cope with the functions assigned to it, you can transform it into mechanical ventilation at any time - just install fans on the openings!

The positive effects of regular bath procedures on the body are invaluable. At the same time, a bathhouse is not just healthy, it is also a spiritual pastime, relaxation and gatherings. However, all the benefits are easily outweighed by the difficulties that will certainly appear if there is no effective ventilation in the bathhouse.

Importance of the system

Even in ancient times, architects understood that the lack of fresh air in a bathhouse could quickly cause the appearance of dampness, mold, and fungal spores, which inevitably leads to the destruction of the structure. That is why, even in ancient times, builders left small gaps between the logs - they helped improve air exchange and high-quality ventilation. Nowadays, these primitive technologies have been replaced by modern, efficient systems that require effort, money and time for planning and installation.

Some homeowners skip this stage of work, but this is a very big mistake, since after a couple of years such buildings will simply become unusable due to constant high humidity, and if the bathhouse is built according to frame technology, then its service life will be even shorter. The first sign of the destruction that has begun will be a musty smell, which will be most noticeable when the stove is lit. This will negate any pleasure from the procedure. Being in such a steam room is not only unpleasant, but also quite dangerous for life and health, since carbon monoxide, fungal and mold spores accumulate in the air, which provoke the development of dangerous diseases of the bronchopulmonary system.

Effective ventilation in a bathhouse must necessarily comply with basic requirements and safety principles:

• Correct redistribution of air masses. As you know from a school physics course, high-temperature air masses rush upward, while cold ones, on the contrary, descend. Therefore, the flow should be directed so that the feet do not freeze and the sunbeds have a comfortable temperature.
• Maintaining a given heating level in the steam room. Ventilation under no circumstances should interfere with the functionality of the steam room, that is, cooling the air is unacceptable.
• Use of water-resistant materials. To arrange steam rooms and organize ventilation in them, it is necessary to use materials that are resistant to humidity and elevated temperatures.

The main difficulty in creating effective system air exchange is that it is faced with the task of quickly removing hot humid air from all parts of the bathhouse, but at the same time it is necessary to prevent the temperature in the hot steam room from dropping, therefore modern systems, as a rule, they use the installation of hoods that prevent cold air from blowing in from the street. The presence of such systems is of fundamental importance for buildings equipped with solid fuel and gas ovens, since such circuits require a large volume of oxygen to support the combustion process.

How does this work?

High-quality ventilation in a steam room consists of ventilation and complete drying of all functional areas, as well as walls, floors, the attic and the entire under-roof area. Exhaust openings in the attic are made in the form of small windows, as well as aerators or spotlights - this largely depends on the type of roofing and the materials of its manufacture. If the building is insulated, then a counter-lattice is additionally installed, which allows for ventilation between the layer of thermal insulation material and the other layers of the roofing cake. It is also installed to ventilate wall structures, which is very important to prevent the formation of condensation in the bathhouse.

But for the best drying of floors, a burst ventilation system is used or a ventilated floor is installed. Such options should be considered at the planning stage of construction work. To do this, lay a subfloor and pour concrete at an angle, then lay the boards in such a way that there are small gaps between them, through which excessive moisture is removed.

It should be noted that absolutely all rooms of the bathhouse need ventilation: steam room, sink, relaxation room, as well as other rooms. In order for ventilation to be most effective, you should select in advance a scheme that will correspond to the characteristics of the bathhouse and its operating conditions.

Experienced builders They do not advise carrying out complex ventilation systems and recommend giving preference to the simplest and most familiar methods, which may be suitable for each individual case. Here the statement is 100% true that the simpler the better, and in terms of cost this option will be much cheaper.

The operating principle of ventilation is based on the laws of physics. As a rule, 2 windows are cut out in such rooms: one of them is responsible for the entry of fresh street air, and the second allows the overheated and humid air to escape outside. How these windows are located in relation to each other largely determines which zone of the complex and with what intensity the air heated from the firebox will penetrate, since it moves under the influence of cold air masses coming from the street. This explains the fact that in some baths, instead of a single outlet, two are cut out, which makes it possible to redirect heat flows in the desired direction.

The dimensions of the windows are also of fundamental importance, as well as the possibility of full or partial regulation of the lumen. To do this, special valves are attached to them, allowing you to cover any open cracks.

It is very important to make correct window calculations taking into account the size of the room. If the windows are too large, the steam room simply will not be able to warm up to the required temperature and more electricity will have to be spent. And if the windows turn out to be too small, then the intensity of the flow will be reduced and the air may become completely oversaturated with water vapor.

The size and location of ventilation windows primarily affects the entry and uniform mixing of air, as well as its removal from an overheated room. As for the uneven distribution of temperatures in different parts of the steam room, this phenomenon cannot be completely avoided, but it is possible to ensure that the effect is invisible to visitors to the steam room and washing room and does not cause any discomfort.

Species

High-quality ventilation of bath rooms extends the life of the steam room to 50 years and even more. The ventilation system option is selected individually in each case and is largely determined by the location of the building and the materials that were used in its construction. All ventilation options developed to date, according to the basic principle of operation, are divided into natural, forced, and combined.

Natural ventilation assumes that air change is carried out due to the unhindered entry of flows from the outside, their mixing with the air layers of paired rooms and the removal of waste through special openings.

Forced The system is based on the use of fans. As a rule, they are installed for exhaust and much less often - for supply. Typically, fans are installed not only in the steam room, but also in the washing room, as well as in the rest room.

Combined option, as the name suggests, it includes elements of natural and forced ventilation.

Among the popular schemes, the most widespread is “bastu”. It involves the formation of a small hole with an adjustable valve, which works for inflow and is usually located behind the stove or under it.

As additional elements, vents are installed above the stove, which are controlled using a gate valve and a valve - it is through them that outside air enters through vents from the underground. Typically, the opening of such a box remains closed for some period, but as soon as there is a need to reduce the humidity level in the bath, both exhaust valves open. This scheme could be considered ideal if not for some of its limitations. Unfortunately, it is not suitable in every case, so in some situations the more preferable ventilation option is installation exhaust system– for this, a fan is attached to the lower part of the box. If you install it in the supply opening behind the stove, you can get a supply type of ventilation.

There is another scheme that is quite often used in steam rooms - with it, moist, superheated air is removed from the steam room space through the upper and lower openings equipped with valves, and fresh air enters through vents in the floor under the firebox. On the outside of the building, such openings are connected to each other by a special ventilation duct. Less commonly, an exhaust hood is installed in bathhouses, in which there is only one channel for the entry of air jets and one for their removal, while both are installed at the same height from the floor level: one is located behind the stove, and the second is located opposite on the opposite wall. This system requires mandatory installation of forced ventilation.

The most unsuccessful method involves arranging both inflow and exhaust on one side opposite the firebox. In such a system, fresh air coming from the street seeks its way to the stove and, during its movement, bumps into the feet of those steaming. This creates a draft, which significantly reduces the level of comfort from staying in the steam room. However, such arrangement also occurs quite often when there is no technical possibility to make holes with different sides premises.

Materials

The choice of ventilation system for a bathhouse is largely influenced by the type of structure and the material from which it is made. If the bathhouse is equipped in a separate building, then it is quite simple to plan and install the most preferred type of ventilation. But if the bathhouse has a common wall with living rooms, then ventilation must be treated especially carefully to prevent waterlogging and rotting of the wall.

The ventilation system in baths of the second type can only be forced, that is, it must include a fan, which will help effectively dry the wall. The ventilation of the bathhouse can be connected to elements of general house ventilation or independently go outside. Ventilation ducts in frame buildings are installed directly in the walls, and later they are brought to the roof or even higher. For maximum air flow, functional vents are installed in the foundation or a ventilation valve is installed.

The peculiarity of buildings using the frame method is that the walls are covered with a large number thermal insulation layers, which completely eliminates the possibility of arranging natural ventilation. That is why the best option here would be to create a supply and exhaust ventilation system. In order for the air exchange to be of the highest quality, they use the creation of two channels: one is placed near the floor and supplemented with a fan, it is used for inflow, and the second serves to remove exhaust air - it is mounted a little higher. The openings of such openings are closed with flaps.

In bathhouses built from gas blocks and foam blocks, due to individual characteristics materials are installed in galvanized air ducts. To do this, they purchase ready-made pipes, some even make them from simple sewer pipes. Some craftsmen create a ventilation duct on their own from galvanized leaves, having previously given them the necessary configuration and reliably sealed the joints. As a rule, in such buildings, air ducts are laid over the side walls.

The easiest way to arrange ventilation is in Russian classical log sauna. Here it makes sense to equip a natural exhaust system. If the wood is breathable, gaps are formed between the logs from the floor to the bottom edge, and windows are provided in all rooms of the bathhouse, then additional ventilation structures will not be required. However, the problem of creating optimal proportions between the air coming from outside and the air going out into the street often arises. To prevent the occurrence of drafts and not “heat the street,” experts recommend additionally insulating the bathhouse well and installing small holes inside the thermal insulation material with special valves that serve to allow flows in and out.

In wooden buildings, a burst ventilation method is often used, in which all windows and doors are opened at the same time.

Brick buildings do not initially provide for the possibility of air exchange, so any natural exhaust is absolutely excluded here. Because of this, ventilation should be planned at the stage of drawing up a construction project. At the same time, it is important to accurately understand how many steamers will take bath procedures. If a bathhouse is being built for a small family, then you can simply design a small supply vent near the stove and an exhaust vent under the ceiling, but if the structure is aimed at a large company, then preference should be given to forced options.

How to make it yourself?

In order to create comfortable conditions in the steam room and other bath rooms, it is necessary to properly arrange the ventilation system. You can carry it out in a bathhouse either on your own or with the assistance of specialists. To do this, you will need a work project, materials and tools, as well as a little effort and time.

What will you need?

To install ventilation ducts in a bathhouse, preparation is required. The following components will be needed for this work:

• several ventilation valves;
• valve;
• metal grill;
• mosquito net;
• ventilation box;
• corrugated air duct;
• hygrometer;
• fan;

• thermometer;
• metallized tape;
• clamp;
• polyurethane foam;
• sealant;
• fasteners;
• decorative overlays for lining inlet and outlet openings.

By the way, the latter are widely presented in any store in a wide variety of colors and textures, so purchase best option won't be any problem. Ventilation valves are installed on exhaust and supply openings. They may differ in shape, as well as in size and material of manufacture. Valves are used to quickly open or close holes. They are made from the most various materials, and some home craftsmen even make them with their own hands, and in terms of strength and strength of fixation they are in no way inferior to store-bought options.

A grid with a mesh, as in ordinary houses, is necessary in order to create a barrier against insects and rodents, whose presence is extremely undesirable either at home or in the bathhouse. Most often they are made of metal, but there are options made of heat-resistant plastic.

The box, as a rule, is attached to the outer wall, but if there is no technical possibility for this, it is simply laid along the top. This arrangement is typical for buildings made of aerated concrete. Some people make the box themselves using corrugated pipes. Keep in mind that plastic options are not suitable for steam rooms, since under the influence of high temperatures most types of plastic begin to deform.

The fan in the steam room is used both for the supply and exhaust air. It is optimal if in the room it works only in the general direction. Such a device should be purchased in a heat-resistant version, which is specially produced for Finnish saunas and baths. A thermometer and a hygrometer are used to make the use of the bathhouse as practical as possible. For example, in systems with forced ventilation, temperature sensors are often installed that analyze the real state of the air and, depending on its operating indicators, open the supply valve or start the hood.

Layout for the construction of a steam room

It is optimal if the entire ventilation system is thought out in advance - even at the design stage of the building. To choose the most suitable design, it is worth focusing on some nuances installation work. The ventilation system, as a rule, is laid at the construction stage of the bathhouse; it is at this time that all the necessary channels are laid and openings are formed into which they will later be walled up or to which they will be attached. Sami adjustable windows recorded only after completion of work on decorative finishing complex.

All ventilation openings usually have an identical size, but if the task is to increase the degree of air outflow, then the exhaust window is made slightly larger than the supply window, but in no case vice versa. The formation of an exhaust opening with a diameter lower than that of the supply opening is strictly prohibited, because such a design can pose a threat to the life and health of users.

The system must certainly have dampers and valves, and the latter are considered the most preferable option, since they allow the openings to be closed with the greatest tightness without the formation of any gaps. Adjustable dampers are also important because air flow depends not only on the size of the window, but also on the time of year. In winter, when negative temperatures prevail outside the window, cold air masses penetrate into the bathhouse more intensely, which is why in the autumn-winter period the windows are partially opened, thereby delaying the flow large volumes frosty air masses.

As for the ventilation window, the size of its cross-section is calculated based on the volume of the steam room. A standard has been conventionally adopted, according to which the window area must correspond to 24 cm2 for each cubic meter of space. If the calculations are carried out with violations and deviations in one direction or another, then the room will be too ventilated or vice versa.

Even at the bathhouse design stage, you should remember that ventilation windows should not be located exactly opposite each other at the same level. In this case, warm air masses will not have normal circulation and will not be able to cover all the required heating areas. The hood openings should be located slightly below the ceiling level. This is due to the fact that warm air rises. If the system has an outlet for superheated air flows, then they are effectively removed outside, and if the holes are located low, then the exhaust air cannot find a place for removal and the overall microclimate in the room becomes uncomfortable.

Separately, floor ventilation should be provided, since with constant contact with water, wooden surfaces lose their performance characteristics after 3-5 years, therefore There are important requirements for a ventilated floor:

• to create the possibility of a flow in the foundation, it is necessary to build small vents;
• the floor should be laid in such a way that there are gaps up to one centimeter between the boards;
• the finishing floor must be laid above the level of the blower, which helps the stove begin to work as an additional hood;
• after taking bath procedures you should leave front door completely open until the floor is dry.

As for the dressing room, it is easiest to arrange ventilation here, since in such a room there is no direct contact with water. As a rule, a combined or natural method of ventilation is formed here, when cool air enters inside through the supply channel and is removed using the exhaust mechanism of the steam room, where it enters under the influence of a fan.

In addition, the installation of ventilators is allowed here, which may require connecting to an electric current network and going outside.. As for the washing room, they usually build here forced ventilation, and air exchange here occurs using an electric motor.

We organize an exhaust hood in an already built bathhouse

Even ancient architects, far from the laws of physics, invented a method of ventilation that was based on the creation of natural draft. Depending on how the bathhouse was heated - black or white - it also depended on where the heated air was discharged. In the first case, the stove did not function during direct vaping, so for ventilation they were used open windows and doors. The white scheme provides for the construction of a chimney. As already mentioned, the main elements of the air exchange system should be laid out at the construction stage, however, there are options when it becomes necessary to equip a hood in an already constructed building.

To do this, you should punch holes directly in the walls and supplement them with special plugs. One hole is made in the area of ​​the furnace vent, and the second one is made near the ceiling on the opposite side. Of course, this is easiest to do if the bathhouse is built of logs. If the building is built of aerated concrete, and even more so of brick, then creating openings and installing an exhaust hood will be much more problematic, since in the process of such work the integrity of the walls can be damaged in the wrong place, and the risk of destruction of the bathhouse as a whole is quite high. That is why you should not do your own ventilation in bathhouses that are already in use. Entrust these works to professionals who have the necessary skills and special tools. But if you are still determined to do all the work yourself, read the step-by-step guide.

In conclusion, it should be noted once again that the basic principles of creating an effective ventilation system largely depend on the dimensions of the bathhouse and the materials from which they are made. However, in any case, there are a number of requirements that must be met regardless of the specified parameters. Each steam room must have at least two openings. One is used for the influx, the second for the removal of air masses. If you plan the exhaust in a bathhouse under construction in advance, you can avoid serious problems when installing the ventilation system, which can cause air exchange problems in the steam zone.

It is absolutely unacceptable for installed ventilation created the following problems:

Can be done by different schemes, but there is no doubt that this building cannot be done without it.

Not only the correct distribution of heat in the room, but also the safety of visitors, as well as longevity services of wooden bathhouse construction. In a bathhouse, especially in a steam room, there is always a large amount of water and steam, and wooden surfaces absorb moisture, and periodic drying of the room is simply necessary. However, it will not be effective enough if constant ventilation is not organized in the premises, which significantly reduces the effect of moisture absorption by wood, since the air is in continuous movement.

The principle of operation of ventilation in a bathhouse

The operation of the ventilation system is based on the well-known laws of physics, and the principle of its arrangement is quite simple and understandable.

• In the bathhouse there are two ventilation windows, one of which provides an influx of fresh air, and the second allows the heated and waterlogged air to escape.
• The exact location of the ventilation windows will determine which area of ​​the room will receive more intensely heated air, which moves under the pressure of heavier cold air coming from outside. Therefore, sometimes instead of one outlet, two are installed - this is done in order to be able to direct the flow in the desired direction by opening one of them or both at the same time by a certain amount.

Thus, a very important factor is the size of the windows, as well as the ability to adjust the clearance they open. To do this, they are equipped with latch doors, which can be closed completely or a small gap can be left open.

• Another important task is correct calculation the overall size of the ventilation window, taking into account the area of ​​a particular room.

— If you install openings that are too large, the steam room will either never be able to heat up to the required temperature, or this will lead to excessive consumption of fuel or energy, or in order to achieve the required temperature, it will take a long time to adjust the distance to which you need to open each of the ventilation windows.

— If the ventilation windows are not large enough, the intensity of air movement will be noticeably reduced, which means that the room may overheat or the air will become oversaturated with moisture.

So, depending on the size of the ventilation openings, their location and the equipment of the system additional elements adjustments will depend on soft intake, uniform mixing and removal of air from the room. That is, it is necessary to provide all these parameters so that there are no sharp thermal changes in the room for individual parts of the body of a person washing in a bathhouse, for example, when cold air from the street blows down his legs, and at the same time his head is exposed to very high temperatures. temperatures

There will be a difference in air flow temperatures in any case, and this is normal, but visitors should not feel any discomfort from this. Therefore, the air must be mixed as evenly as possible - this depends on correct scheme ventilation system.

Important nuances of planning a ventilation system in a bathhouse

Before you begin choosing a ventilation system and the most suitable design, you need to understand some of the nuances that apply when installing any of them:

• The ventilation system is laid out in the process - the necessary channels are laid and openings are arranged into which they are embedded or connected. The adjustable windows themselves are installed after the decorative cladding of the room.

For that, to carry out this work without problems, it is necessary to include ventilation in the bathhouse design in order to carry out all further construction work with support on it.

• Ventilation openings, ideally, should be the same size. If it is necessary to speed up the outflow of exhaust air, then the exhaust hole is made a little larger than the supply hole, but for safety reasons, in any case it is forbidden to make it smaller than the latter. Sometimes, as mentioned above, instead of one, two exhaust windows are installed, not only to regulate the distribution of flows, but also to ensure safety.
• Ventilation windows must have doors or latches. It is preferable to install the latter, as they close more tightly, leaving no gaps.

• During the initial heating of the steam room, the latch doors are closed completely until the required temperature is reached.
• Adjustable dampers are also necessary because the flow of cold air depends on the time of year. So, with negative winter temperature the cold enters the warm room more intensely. Therefore, during this period, the ventilation windows do not open completely, holding back the flow of cold.
• The cross-sectional area of ​​the ventilation window is calculated based on the volume of the bath room. There is a rule that for one cubic meter you need a window area of ​​24 square meters. cm.

• If the calculations are incorrect, with deviations in one direction or the other, the room will not be sufficiently ventilated or, conversely, will be too cold.
• Ventilation windows are never located opposite each other and at the same level, since hot air will not have normal circulation and will not cover all the necessary heating areas. It will not mix evenly, so you need to carefully calculate the correct placement of the ventilation elements.
• Exhaust windows are always located at a height slightly below the ceiling, because the overheated air mass rises up. If an outlet is provided for it, it rushes into the exhaust hole, which helps to timely clean the air in the room. Only under these conditions will the bathhouse be beneficial, and a favorable and healthy atmosphere can be created in it.

Types of ventilation

IN different cases, depending on the design of the building and the total volume of the bathhouse, one of the types of ventilation is arranged.

Natural ventilation

This type of ventilation system is based on the difference in temperature and pressure indoors and outdoors. The effectiveness of such ventilation is achieved by correct placement of the inlet and outlet windows. Thus, the entrance for external air is located next to, at a height of 250 ÷ 350 mm from the floor, and exhaust windows are usually on the opposite wall of the room, 150 ÷ ​​250 mm below the ceiling.

It is believed that this option is not particularly suitable for placing a steam room, since the hottest place in this room is its upper area, and the coldest place is the floor. Setting up natural ventilation in such conditions is quite difficult, but if you arrange its elements correctly, then even with this distribution of air flows you can achieve the desired effect.

Forced ventilation

There are special electronic systems for saunas and Russian steam baths, which are entrusted with control of temperature and air flow.

The control panel sets the desired temperature and humidity level, which must be maintained in the room, creating a comfortable atmosphere in the bathhouse. Such systems are carried out and connected by specialists, and such services are quite expensive.

Another option for forced ventilation is simpler in design and more affordable. This method of ventilating a bath can be called the most widespread, as it will create the right atmosphere regardless of the weather conditions “overboard”.

In this system, in addition to properly located ventilation windows, a device such as a fan operating for exhaust will be needed. The combined option is especially good for baths located inside the house, where the ventilation windows are not built into the external wall, but a long ventilation duct is laid from it to them. In this case, the fan provides the required amount of air in and out.

It should be noted that special fans are purchased for the bathhouse, which have enhanced waterproofing of the electrical circuit elements and mechanical parts. In addition, such devices must withstand high temperatures without losing their functionality. The working diameter and power of the device are selected depending on the volume of the room.

The required type of ventilation is selected individually for different rooms and types of baths, so when choosing a scheme, you need to carefully think through and calculate everything. Very often it makes sense to consider a combined scheme that combines natural circulation of air flows and the possibility, if necessary, to resort to forced circulation.

Video: basic principles and bath ventilation schemes

Common bath ventilation schemes

The presented diagrams show different options relative position heaters and shelves in the steam room, and the distribution of flows of supply, hot and mixed air that advises them.

First scheme ( A)

The most used ventilation scheme in a bathhouse is when the window for incoming air is located next to the stove, at a height of 250 ÷ 350 mm from the floor.

During heating of the heater, cold heavy air coming from the ventilation window moves a light hot stream to the opposite wall, lifting it up to the exhaust hole, which is located at a distance of 150 ÷ ​​250 cm from the ceiling.

Having gone all the way, from the bottom window to the top, hot and mixed flows cover the entire room, maximally warming the area of ​​the top shelf located under the exhaust window. If there is insufficient air movement, install a fan in the upper ventilation hole.

A regulator in the form of movable blinds can be built into the inlet, which will help both regulate the intensity of the supply air and, to a certain extent, set the direction of the flow in the desired direction.

Second scheme ( b)

Natural intensive ventilation is carried out through the lower window, located on the opposite wall from the stove. In this case, the air movement is directed towards the heating device, where it picks up the hot flow emanating from it, rises and, in a wide arc covering the entire volume of the room, rushes to the exhaust vent.

This scheme is well suited for a bathhouse located in a house and having one external wall. In order not to extend the ventilation duct to the opposite side of the bathhouse, both windows are installed in the wall facing the street.

Third scheme ( V)

This scheme is suitable for a bathhouse with a leak. The window for air intake is located in exactly the same place as in the first diagram, near the stove-stove. The exit is organized somewhat differently.

The air, after heating the upper area of ​​the steam room, falls down and passes through the cracks of the flooring, thereby helping to evaporate the moisture collected there, which significantly extends the life of the wooden floor.

The exhaust vent is located in an adjacent room or in an isolated channel that no longer has access to the steam room. It is usually equipped with a fan to ensure stable air circulation along such a complex trajectory.

The scheme cannot be called very popular - it is used infrequently due to its complexity in accurate calculations the location of ventilation windows, a rather labor-intensive device to ensure the movement of air flows in its cavity. However, it should be taken into account that it is very effective, and contributes to the most uniform heating of the steam room and, at the same time, helps the rapid evaporation of moisture from the wooden floor structures and their drying.

Fourth scheme ( G)

The fourth option is designed for a constantly operating furnace - only in this case its vent will serve as an exhaust hood. The supply window is located under the shelf installed on the opposite wall from the stove, at the level of its vent.

Cold air is directed towards the stove and lifts the air heated by it to the ceiling. Cooling down, the air masses are forced down and go into the blower hole.

There are also more complex schemes in which there are two supply and two exhaust ventilation windows with forced circulation air. Such a scheme requires careful adjustment, but it allows you to set the required room temperature as accurately as possible.

As stated above, ideal option The installation of the ventilation system will be carried out simultaneously with the construction of the bathhouse. If a ready-made room is being converted into a bathhouse, or its arrangement is being carried out, it is best to choose a room or separate a corner that has two external walls. In this case, there will be no problems with the design of the ventilation system.

If this is not possible and the bathhouse is located in the middle of a private house, then there are two options for arranging ventilation of the room - install a ventilation duct that connects the room to the street, or lead the ventilation pipe through the ceiling and roof. In this case, the pipe must be covered from above with a protective umbrella to prevent precipitation and fallen leaves from entering the ventilation ducts.

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Ventilation

Video: example of self-arrangement of bath ventilation

Our website already has a large review material, so now it’s worth talking separately about the hood in the bathhouse: how it works, how it works and how to make it yourself.

Exhaust hood in a bath: depending on what kind of bath

Baths are built from a variety of materials, each of which has its own specifics. This also affects ventilation systems, which have their own characteristics in each case. We will talk about their differences in terms of organization below.

Extract in the sauna

A sauna or Finnish bath differs from a Russian one in the small amount of steam (it is practically a dry bath) and high temperature (which can reach up to 130 degrees!). While in the sauna there is a clear rule regarding ventilation: the air should be changed at least 6-8 times per hour. And this requires good control of air flows, replacing exhaust air with fresh air less than every 10 minutes.

Ideal for a sauna (convection type). Let us briefly repeat that it operates on the “inverted glass” principle:

• ventilation duct standing diagonally from the stove, takes in near-field air;
• brings it out through the roof (wall);
• at the bottom, next to the stove, there is a supply hole through which fresh air comes in;
• The stove heats the oxygen-rich air, which rises and is distributed throughout the sauna.

Flows are regulated using dampers that regulate the openness of the duct and inlet. An important point at the same time is permanent job oven, because it is it that performs the “pump” function.

And even if the hood in the sauna is done according to a different scheme, the task will remain the same:

• controlled frequent air exchange;
• good warming up arriving fresh air;
• inadmissibility fast air currents (more than 0.3 m/s), i.e. drafts.

In a log bathhouse

The log house was invented long before the laws of physics on which natural ventilation is based took shape. Nevertheless, the builders of log bathhouses actively used these laws so that the owners of the bathhouse would not suffocate during the steaming process, and the bathhouse would last for the decades it was supposed to. (Of course, the hood in the bathhouse is made from a log will not save it from fire, but from rot - it may well.) In the log house, the flow of air was ensured by the lower crowns, which were deliberately laid loosely, that is, they had slots through which fresh air was “pulled.” In addition, the door to the steam room from below did not fit tightly to the floor.

Depending on how exactly the log bathhouse was heated - “black” or “white” - it also depended on where the exhaust air went.

• In a heated “black” bathhouse, the stove does not work during the steaming process, so an open window or door was used for outflow.
• In the heated “white” bathhouse, the outflow was through the chimney. The stove was still working.

In principle, nothing prevents you from organizing the ventilation of a log house in the traditional way today. But decisions need to be made quickly, even at the construction stage. Because more modern solution must be included in the project. Alternatively, you can punch holes (supply and exhaust) directly to the street and equip them with plugs or dampers. One is next to the furnace vent, the second is above the top shelf on the adjacent or opposite side. Or make two exhaust holes - one above, the other below the top shelf. Another option is to make blinds at the bottom of the steam room door, and an exhaust vent under the shower ceiling.

IMPORTANT! If you don’t want to go outside, you can lay air ducts, but then instead of natural ventilation you will have to install a forced ventilation system.

In a foam block bath

A foam block bathhouse is no exception to the rule that you need to think about ventilation when designing a bathhouse. It's easier than hitting finished walls. To provide a bathhouse made of cellular concrete with sufficient air circulation, which will relieve the building from excess moisture, at the time of pouring the foundation formwork, you need to lay down pipe scraps, which will then become vents.

For a bathhouse that is not located in a low-lying area and is not surrounded on all sides by buildings, two vents on opposite sides are sufficient, otherwise there are 4 vents. Do not forget about the ventilation gaps between the walls and the insulation.

The roof must also be ventilated, receiving inflow from the roof overhangs and releasing air through the raised ridge. In the premises, supply and exhaust openings are made according to one of the standard schemes.

If natural ventilation is insufficient, it is recommended to install fans on the hood of a bathhouse made of foam blocks.

Bath hood: in which compartment?

If we leave aside the issues of ventilation of walls, foundations and roofs already discussed in other articles, there remain rooms - steam room, washing room, dressing room and rest room - where air circulation needs to be organized. At the same time, there are certain standards regarding ventilation in each of them and the specifics of the manufacture of the hood. But first things first.

Hood in the steam room

For those steaming, an exhaust hood in the steam room of a bathhouse is the guarantee that they will come out of there alive and healthy.

IMPORTANT! You should not leave the steam room without any ventilation holes at all; there is a high risk of burning or losing consciousness and suffocating on carbon dioxide. You can't make just one hole- that's how ventilation doesn't work.

The method of ventilation of the steam room can be natural (due to the laws of physics) or forced (due to fans). The openings can lead to the street, into air ducts and into adjacent rooms. Ventilation openings are fitted with either blinds or dampers. The air flow can be organized through the bottom of the steam room door, spaced 3 cm from the floor, or from the blinds at the bottom of the door leaf.

You only have to make the box with your own hands. Everything else (corrugation, valves, valves, flaps) is on sale. Fans (if needed) vary in diameter and power. A relay can be used to automatically control forced ventilation. Holes in the wall were either left during construction or made in an already built bathhouse.

Useful video

Look how the craftsmen made a ventilation duct from boards:

In the washing room

According to the already mentioned standards, air circulation in a washing room per hour should be a multiple of 8 volumes of the room for supply ventilation and 9 - for hood. It means:

• that the dimensions of the exhaust opening will be more supply;
• or there will be exhaust two for one supply;
• or put on the hood fan.

In any case, this is an intensive air exchange, which is intended primarily for quick drying of the washing area. It is not required during the washing process, so it is regulated by dampers.

By the way, supply openings can be made in the dressing room or rest room, and exhaust openings can be made in the washing room. This will allow you to ventilate two rooms at once. Similarly, the hood is done in the bathroom, and forced, to create low pressure. Then the air will be drawn out from neighboring rooms and escape through forced exhaust. Thus, the rooms are connected by through openings, which will be supply on one side and exhaust on the other.

The components of the hood in the washing bath do not differ from those used in the steam room.

How to make a hood in a bathhouse

This has been said more than once, but it’s still worth repeating: the costs of installing ventilation will increase many times over if it is done late, after completion of construction. At the same time, the principle of creating ventilation in the bathhouse remains unchanged: it is necessary to create conditions for the inflow and outflow of air from the premises. So, how to make a hood in a bathhouse with your own hands or the hands of professionals.

Exhaust hood in the bathhouse: diagram

There are many schemes, but to understand the principle of ventilation, just one is suitable. Most often, steam room ventilation diagrams are proposed, but the diagram for the entire bath, with explanations, is of much greater interest.

Look at the sketch. It shows that ventilation was carried out in the washing room, steam room and relaxation room. Moreover, the air flow is carried out from one pipe to two points, one of which is in the steam room, and the second in the relaxation room. The hood is located in the washing room, in the steam room, and in the relaxation room. Let's describe all the ventilation devices in each room:

1. Washing- a window made of metal-plastic, an adjustable hood that draws air through a diffuser located on the ceiling. From there the air escapes through a pipe to the roof.
2. Steam room- an insulated window located below the shelf, an adjustable hood, which is a vertical box, the intake opening of which is 150 cm² located below the shelf, and the exit from the pipe to the street is near the ceiling. One of the controlled inflow channels near the stove, cross-sectional area 150 cm².
3. Rest room- an adjustable hood, which is a box with a cross-section of 150 cm², the height of the intake hole is 30-40 cm from the floor, exit through a pipe to the street near the ceiling. Adjustable inflow through the second channel with an outlet near the stove firebox.

With your own hands: how to do it right

Exhausting in a bathhouse with your own hands is not something that is impossible to do, but you need to approach the matter prudently and slowly. In order to make a hood yourself, you need to prepare the materials according to it. It is also necessary to calculate the cross-section of ventilation pipes.

IMPORTANT! The inflow volume must be equal to or less than the exhaust volume.

To do this, you need to know the volume of the room and the expansion factor (how many times the air should be renewed per hour) - it is in the standards. In main air ducts, the speed of movement should not exceed 5 m/s, in branches - 3 m/s, in the steam room - 2 m/s, natural ventilation - up to 1 m/s. Next in the table we find the value of the pipe cross-section that closest gives the required volume at a given speed.

Knowing the cross-section, all that remains is to prepare corrugation or pipes of the appropriate diameter, which are fixed at one end indoors at the required height according to the diagram, and at the other end they go outside. Self-tapping screws, metal tape and polyurethane foam are used for fastening. The openings are equipped with dampers in the room and grilles at the exit. By the way, ventilation cleaning should be done once a year..

Useful video

Watch a short video that clearly shows ventilation in one bathhouse:

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Well, now you know exactly how to properly make a hood in a bathhouse to save yourself, your household and guests from suffocation in the bathhouse. All that remains is to correctly apply the information received.

State standards for room ventilation are regulated by SNiP 41–01–2003; the document establishes the minimum rate of air exchange in rooms depending on their purpose and features of use. In residential premises, ventilation must perform two tasks - to provide favorable indicators of the percentage of oxygen in the air and to remove exhaust gases.

SNiP 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. File for download

For a bathhouse, ventilation tasks become more complicated; it must additionally remove moist air as quickly as possible (providing rapid drying of wooden structures) and regulate the temperature in the steam room. There are cases when it is necessary to quickly reduce the temperature in the steam room before taking procedures for small children, the elderly or big people. The stove continues to give off heat for a long time, it takes a very long time to wait until the bathhouse cools down on its own. By ventilating a room, you can quickly set the desired temperature and maintain it within specified limits the entire time people are in it.

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ventilation valves

What types of ventilation are there and how to calculate them

Ventilation can only exist in cases where there is an influx of fresh air into the room and an outflow of used air. You can often come across the concepts of “supply” or “exhaust” ventilation. These are not entirely correct concepts; it cannot be only an inflow or only exhaust ventilation, it is always only flow-exhaust. Why are these concepts used? Thus, it is emphasized that the influx or exhaust of exhaust air is carried out in a forced way, and, accordingly, the removal or supply of fresh air occurs naturally.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

When calculating the parameters of ventilation systems, the initial data takes into account the volume and purpose of the premises, the presence of special air conditions in them, the presence or likelihood of the presence of carbon monoxide or other health hazards chemical compounds. Based on these data, government regulations set the frequency of air replacement per hour; it can vary from 1÷2 to ten or more.

Next, engineers determine the parameters and location of the channels to ensure the necessary intake and removal of air, taking into account weather conditions and climate zone. If natural ventilation cannot provide the required frequency of air changes, then forced systems are used that supply/extract air with electric fans. Baths have their own characteristics for each type of ventilation; let’s look at them in more detail.

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air handling unit

General rules for ventilation in a bathhouse

The principles of ventilation in a bathhouse largely depend on the architectural features of its design. If the floors have slots for draining water, then supply air can also be supplied through these same slots; there is no need to make a special hole.

Quite often, small windows are installed in the bathhouse; when opened, they “turn” into exhaust vents. In addition, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, the room can be ventilated even easier - open the firebox and, by changing the position of the damper, adjust the frequency of air changes.

Photo - stove firebox and open door for room ventilation

These are the simplest options for a steam room (by the way, the most effective and low-cost), but there are cases when the furnace firebox is located in another room, there is no window, and the floors are solid without cracks. It is this kind of bathhouse that we will focus on in our article. Why do you need ventilation in the bathhouse?

1. For better air mixing throughout the entire volume. Natural convection of air masses is not able to equalize the air temperature in height; the difference in values ​​under the ceiling and near the floor can reach tens of degrees. This negatively affects the comfort of taking water procedures.
2. To bring in fresh air. If one person is steaming in the steam room, and the stay time does not exceed 20–30 minutes, then the oxygen concentration in the air will not have time to drop to critical values. And if several people steam at the same time in a steam room for a long time, then the flow of fresh air becomes mandatory.

Quite often, developers go to two extremes: in order to save heat, they abandon ventilation altogether or make it too strong and unregulated. Both extremes have negative consequences; ventilation should not be neglected, it is cheap, and the positive effect is very impressive. But it should be done correctly, taking into account as much as possible the characteristics of the premises, temperature requirements in the steam room, materials for making walls and cladding.

In the case of a complete lack of ventilation, the risks of oxygen starvation and, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, increase carbon monoxide. In the case of strong unregulated ventilation, the heating time increases significantly, and warm air is quickly removed from the room. But this is not all the problems - the rapid removal of warm air automatically causes an equally rapid influx of fresh air - the floors will always be very cold, and this increases the risk of contracting colds.

Uncontrolled ventilation can lead to cold floors

The flow of fresh air into the steam room is arranged in two places: behind the stove or under the sun loungers.

There are many diagrams of air movement on the Internet, most of them are made by amateurs, you should not pay attention to them. Fulfill only two conditions: air flow at the bottom, exhaust at the top, placement of ducts diagonally in the room.

This is quite enough to ensure normal air circulation and mixing. Everything else is just speculation; it can only confuse inexperienced developers, significantly complicate the ventilation system, making it expensive and unreliable. There are options with two different-level exhaust valves, with two supply valves, etc. The holes for air removal are located at different heights.

One right under the ceiling, used only for complete ventilation of the bath after finishing the water procedures. The third is made 30÷40 centimeters below the first and is used during washing. Some craftsmen connect them together with internal air ducts, install several control dampers, etc. We assure you that these complications do not have any visible effect on the comfort of staying in the steam room.

A few words should be said about the ventilation ducts in the bathhouse; they are often suggested to be used in steam rooms. In large buildings, ventilation ducts serve to connect several various rooms to the general ventilation system, it does not matter which one - natural or forced. This is completely justified from both technological and economic points of view.

What other rooms can be connected with ventilation ducts to the steam room? Strange question. Then, why make complex channels under the wall sheathing? Isn't it easier to make ordinary holes in the walls and insert ordinary pieces of pipes and gratings with elementary valves into them? Of course, we will tell you about a real, effective, simple and cheap way to install ventilation; we will not lay any ducts anywhere. This is a universal option, perfect for both “budget” and expensive exclusive doubles.

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PVC air vent

Video - Ventilation in the bathhouse

Natural ventilation of the bath

The most accepted option for most baths, minimal in cost and safety and quite effective. The specific locations of ventilation openings should be taken into account the size of the rooms, the location of shelves, the stove and the material of the building. The general rule is that the openings should be located at different heights, as a rule, the inlet (supply) is 20 cm from the floor and the outlet (exhaust) is 20÷30 cm from the ceiling. When selecting holes, you need to consider where the holes will be located on the external walls. It is advisable that they do not stand out too much on the façade walls.

The dimensions of the holes are approximately 300÷400 cm2, it is better to make them larger rather than smaller. In case of too rapid exchange of air, leading to a decrease in temperature in the steam room, the channels should be covered with control dampers. To improve appearance It is better to use decorative grilles; you can purchase them in specialized stores or make them yourself.

We wrote more about this type of ventilation in the article “. We'll tell you how to organize natural ventilation, how to calculate and make ventilation holes.

Somewhat complicates ventilation system, installation of electrical equipment is required. Another problem is related to the microclimate in the steam room. There high temperature and air humidity are the main enemies of any electrical equipment. Fans must have reliable protection housing from moisture, during connection you should strictly follow the recommendations of the PUE. And in order to comply, you need to know them.

Forced ventilation - elements

The advantages of forced ventilation are that the rate of air change in the room is significantly accelerated and the control parameters are expanded. Natural ventilation is very dependent on weather conditions, and in some cases it can become ineffective. Especially if the wind is directed at right angles to the exhaust vent. Forced ventilation works with the same effectiveness in any weather and regardless of the direction and strength of the wind.

How to calculate forced ventilation in a bathhouse and what type of ventilation it is? How to choose fans? We answered all these questions in the article “. There are also detailed step-by-step instructions for installing ventilation and advice from professionals.

How to make ventilation in a bathhouse with your own hands

Initial data. Architectural features baths do not provide for the flow of air through floor cracks, doors, windows or furnace fireboxes. It is necessary to make holes for both air inlet and outlet. There is no internal or external wall cladding; the bathhouse is built from sawn timber.

Step 1. Decide on the location of the input and output channels.

We have already mentioned that it is better to place the inlet channel near the stove at a distance of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. The outlet channel is diagonally under the ceiling. This position of the inlet and outlet openings will ensure the distribution of air flows throughout the entire volume of the room. In addition, the incoming air will not cool the flooring. Channels should be easily accessible. There are recommendations to make an outlet hole in the ceiling. We are against such a solution; humid air will certainly cause great damage to the entire rafter system.

Step 2. Purchase or make your own grilles and valves.

They can be of various sizes and geometric shapes: round, square or rectangular. At the same time, take into account the materials of future cladding of external and interior walls, think about how the decorative grilles will be attached to them.

Important. Be sure to install grilles with adjustable clearances; only they can ensure smooth adjustment of the frequency of air changes in the room.

And one more thing - the holes on the outside of the bath should also be closed. Moreover, the closure should be as airtight as possible, preventing moisture from rain or snow from getting on the crowns of the log house.

Step 3. Make holes in the walls.

The most labor-intensive operation will have to be done manually. You need to pre-drill holes around the perimeter in the marked places. The closer they are to each other, the easier it is to hollow out the wood later. When the holes are drilled, take a chisel, chisel and hammer in your hands and begin to destroy the beams remaining between the holes. The holes for ventilation should be made 1-2 cm larger around the perimeter than the pipe being inserted. The fact is that this pipe then needs to be insulated to prevent the appearance of condensation on wooden structures.

Use only a sharp chisel and a chisel - you will have to cut the timber across the grain, this is quite difficult. If the thickness of the timber is 20 centimeters, then it is better to make half the depth of the hole from the inside of the bathhouse, and the other half from the outside. If you have extensive experience using a gasoline saw, then you can cut out the hole. But we immediately warn you that working with a gasoline saw in such conditions is very dangerous. You will have to cut with the end of the bar; when you grab the tree with the lower part of the chain, the saw will be pulled out of your hands. This method of using a saw is strictly prohibited by safety regulations, remember this.

If there is a need to separate the inlet hole in the wall and in the bathhouse, then buy a pipe with an elbow. It is advisable to use rectangular rather than round pipes, they take up less space under the lining of the internal walls of the steam room.

Be sure to seal the joints between the elbow and the pipe with silicone and wrap it with tape for reliability.

Metallized adhesive tape

Step 4. Place foil or plastic film And mineral wool, the layer of cotton wool should be dense, without gaps. It will not be possible to make the edges of the hole absolutely smooth; be careful that the waterproofing is not damaged by the sharp protrusions of the timber.

Step 5. Insert the pipes into the holes in the log house. They should fit in with little effort, quite tightly. In order to increase the reliability of sealing and fastening, be sure to use foam around the perimeter of the hole and pipe. Polyurethane foam eliminates all invisible gaps in thermal insulation between the pipe and the wall and firmly fixes it in the desired position.

We recommend foaming the holes and after covering the walls, the foam will eliminate the gaps between the wall and the vapor barrier. As the foam expands, the vapor barrier will press tightly around the uneven hole, all possible small damage will be automatically closed.

The exhaust pipe may not be insulated; warm air escapes through it. But we advise you to do all the operations for her, just in case. Firstly, you will lose a little time and money. Secondly, you will provide additional and reliable protection against penetration wooden structures atmospheric moisture.

Once both holes are prepared, you can begin covering the walls and installing decorative grilles with adjustable throughput parameters.

Important. When installing steam room ventilation, we strongly advise you to ventilate the space between the wall cladding and the aluminum foil. The work is carried out according to the algorithm described above with one difference. Ventilation should be either constantly closed (during water procedures) or constantly open (during ventilating the bath). Using foil as a vapor barrier for walls has many benefits positive aspects. But there is one problem - the difficulty of removing condensation between the sheathing and insulation. An ordinary hole solves all problems and completely eliminates damage to wood.

Prices for hoods for baths

heat-resistant fan

Video - DIY ventilation

How to make a hole in a log house using a crown

If you do not want to make holes for ventilation manually, you can drill them with a special metal crown. They are sold in stores and are inexpensive. The only problem is that the crown requires a powerful low-speed drill or a hand-held drilling machine; ordinary drills can quickly fail due to the heavy load. Another limitation is that the maximum diameter of crowns is rarely more than 120 mm. But for most baths, small volumes of this size are sufficient.

Step 1. Select a bit of the appropriate diameter and secure it in the chuck. Mark the drilling location.

Step 2. To ease the cutting force, be sure to lubricate the bit with machine oil. Lubrication must be repeated periodically. Once the bit is about two-thirds deep, stop drilling, remove the bit and re-lubricate its internal and external surfaces.

Step 3. Mark the center of the hole with any thin drill bit. Insert the crown into the shallow hole and begin drilling the beam.

Step 4. Drill as far as the crown height allows. Keep a close eye on your work electric tool, do not allow heavy loads. Loads are regulated by the force of pressing the crown against the beam.

Step 5. The crown no longer works - take it out and gradually remove the cut wood with a chisel or chisel. It can be removed quickly, start gradually chipping away the holes in the corners. Do not cut the log across the grain with a chisel; chop it only along the grain, this makes it much easier to do the job.

Repeat the operations until the hole becomes through. If the timber is so thick that the drill cannot get through one side of it, move to the other. To do this, you need to find the center of the hole already made as accurately as possible. The crown has its own centering drill, but its length may not always be enough to reach the reverse side. You'll have to find the center yourself. To do this, install a thin wood drill in the drill, insert it into the existing hole from the center drill of the crown and do it very carefully through hole. The more accurately you drill the center, the easier and faster it will be to work on the other side of the wall.

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hole drill bit for wood

Video - How to drill a hole with a crown

Heated sauna ventilation

Enough original way ventilation devices, not only does fresh air enter the bathhouse, it is immediately heated. This is very important in winter; it not only improves the comfort of your stay, but also speeds up the heating of the premises and saves firewood.

Air is taken from the bottom of the bath and, with the help of electric fans, is supplied to the air intake duct.

The stove has a metal chimney, a special screen is installed around the chimney, and air from the air duct enters the screen channels. The screen performs two functions: it protects the limbs from burns and serves as a radiator to heat the air coming from the air duct. The heated air exits the screen into the steam room.

If desired, you can improve the design a little. Place a tee with a damper on the air duct. This will allow you to take in both air from the bathhouse and from the street - the possibilities for regulating the microclimate parameters in the room are significantly expanded.

Video - Ventilation in a steam room with heated air