Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet: forced ventilation, do-it-yourself installation. We solve the problem of ventilation in the bathroom and toilet Ventilation in the bathroom

To ensure normal air exchange in a house or apartment, two components are needed: inflow fresh air through living rooms and its outflow from technical ones. Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is one of the components of outflow. Therefore, it is necessary to do it correctly.

According to the principle of operation, ventilation can be natural or mechanical, they also say forced. The natural movement of air occurs due to the movement of wind, temperature differences and resulting pressure differences. When using mechanical ventilation, air movement is caused by fans.

From the point of view of a city person, forced movement is preferable: everyone has long been accustomed to the fact that life support depends on the availability of electricity. And it rarely disappears in cities. But in rural areas In winter, power outages are rather the norm. That’s probably why they mainly strive to make systems non-volatile or, at least, redundant.

But natural ventilation in the toilet and bathroom should be too big sizes. After all, the lower the speed of air movement through the channel, the larger the cross-section of the air duct is needed to ensure the transfer of the required volumes. No one will argue that when the fan is on, the air moves faster. This is even reflected in SNiP: the speed limit for ventilation systems with natural circulation is up to 1 m 3 / h, for mechanical ones - from 3 to 5 m 3 / h. Therefore, for the same room and conditions, the channel sizes will be different. For example, to transmit a flow of 300 m3/h you will need:

Therefore, few people today make do with natural ventilation. Unless in small houses(up to 100 sq. m.). Even in apartments with ducts leading to the roof, ventilation of bathrooms and toilets is done using fans.

Organization rules

When installing an air movement system, you need to remember the basic principle: in order for everything to work efficiently, it is necessary to ensure the flow of air through the living rooms and its flow into the technical rooms. From there it goes through the ventilation ducts.

Today, air flow has become a problem: by reducing heating costs, we have cut off almost all sources of its supply. We install airtight windows, and insulate the walls through which air flows at least a little with airtight materials. Third source - entrance doors- Today, almost everyone has iron ones too, with a rubber seal. In fact, the only way left is ventilation. But we don’t abuse it at all: it blows out the heat. As a result, the problem of dampness is added to the problems of lack of oxygen in the room: there is no inflow, and the outflow is ineffective. Even forced.

If you want the ventilation to be normal and the walls in the rooms not to get wet, make ventilation holes. There is such an option on metal-plastic windows, and there are separate devices that are mounted anywhere on the wall. They come with adjustable flaps, different forms and sizes, covered with bars on the outside. It is best to install under windows, above or behind radiators. Then they are not visible in the room, and in winter the air coming from the street is heated.

Having ensured the inflow, it is necessary to ensure that it enters the technical premises through the doors. Therefore, there should be gaps under all doors: air will flow through them to other rooms. It is advisable to install a ventilation grill in the bathroom doors and/or also make a gap at least 2 cm from the floor. The same rules apply to other technical rooms: kitchen and toilet. Only when there is movement of air masses will ventilation work.

The doors of technical rooms - kitchen, bathroom, toilet - must have ventilation grilles or valves. There are even valves with sound absorption, and the smell when proper organization will never enter other premises

Calculation of fan performance for bathrooms and toilets

To decide which fan to install on the bathtub with toilet, you need to calculate the required air exchange. The calculation is a whole system, but when installing a fan, the main attention is paid to its characteristics: it provides the required air speed. In order not to get involved in calculations, its performance can only be taken according to average numbers.

Air exchange rate for different rooms. With their help, ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is calculated

As you can see from the table (this is from SNiP), for a bathroom at least 25 m 3 / h should be “pumped” per hour, for a toilet or a combined bathroom the speed should be twice as high - 50 m 3 / h. These are the minimum values. In reality, through three (or two) technical rooms - kitchen, toilet, bathroom - as much air should leave as it enters through the supply ventilation.

The air intake is calculated based on the volume of all residential premises and usually exceeds it by 1.5-2 times and the minimum values indicated in the table are not enough to ensure the required air exchange. Therefore, the performance of fans is taken with at least a double margin, and for kitchens even more: this will not happen unpleasant odors in the apartment, as well as dampness and fungi. Therefore, when going for a bathroom fan with a capacity less than 100 m 3 /h, it is better not to buy it.

Choice

First of all, you need to decide where you will install the fan: in a duct or on the wall. Accordingly, the type: channel or wall. IN wall options There can also be two types: for installation at the entrance of the ventilation duct - they create more pressure, and for ductless installation - exit directly through the wall to the street. For ductless installations, axial type fans are usually used - they cannot create a pressure of more than 50 Pa, and for this reason they are not installed in ducts.

In addition to the performance that you calculated, another important characteristic is the noise level. The smaller it is, the better. It’s good if the noise level is no more than 35 dB.

Another thing to pay attention to is the level of electrical safety. For use in rooms with high humidity, a protection level of at least IP 44 is required (indicated on the fan housing).

Connecting a bathroom fan

For the fan to operate, a power supply is required, and the main question is how to connect it. There are several possibilities:

Connect in parallel with turning on the lighting. When you turn on the light in the bathroom or toilet, the fan automatically starts. But it also turns off automatically when the light is turned off. This situation is normal for a toilet, but not always for a bathroom. For example, after taking a hot shower, all the steam will not go away. Therefore, for bathrooms, you can use a different method of connecting the fan or set a shutdown delay (a special device on which you can set a time interval after which the power will turn off).

Display it on a separate switch key or install a separate toggle switch/button.
Set a timer that will automatically supply power according to a schedule.

The electrical part is the most difficult. You will have to punch a groove in the wall, “pack” the power cable into it, lead it to the installation location of the switch and connect it there, depending on the chosen method.

Checking the ventilation duct

Installing a fan in the bathroom with your own hands begins after checking the condition of the duct. To do this, remove the grille, if it is not already dismantled, and bring a flame (candle, lighter) or a piece of paper to the hole. If the flame or leaf is steadily pulled towards the channel, the draft is normal. If it either stretches or bends back, the traction is unstable. In this case, if you live in an apartment building, odors from neighbors above or below may reach you. Then there may be a smell in the toilet from the ventilation. It is necessary to stabilize the traction.

If the flame or leaf hardly deviates, the channel is clogged or blocked. In this case, mold and dampness, as well as an unpleasant odor, are guaranteed throughout the entire apartment, and in the bathroom, this is a must.

In case of abnormal draft, residents of high-rise buildings clean the channels themselves or call operational services. In private houses, in any case, everything falls on the shoulders of the owners. If the channel is unstable, you may have brought it out without taking into account the wind rose and the draft periodically overturns. You can solve the problem by moving the exit, but this is not easy. To begin with, you can try installing a deflector (if you don’t have one) or slightly increasing/decreasing the height.

Features of forced ventilation in the bathroom

When installing a fan while it is running, the amount of air exhausted increases significantly. But due to the fact that the housing blocks part of the channel cross-section, at other times, when the fan is not working, the flow decreases three times. As a result, the overall performance of the ventilation system decreases.

To prevent this from happening, you can install a fan with an air intake grille located below and thus increase the performance to normal. The second option is to leave a gap of 1.5-2 cm between the housing and the wall during installation, i.e. make legs. Air will enter the gap and ventilation will be normal in any case. See the video for more details.

Having chosen the installation method and the type of grille, you can proceed directly to installation. Fan sizes may vary. Therefore, each case is individual. But the basic steps are standard:

You need to make a hole on the tile for the body. The easiest way is to put a fan and outline it. Then use a special attachment on a drill or grinder to cut a hole of the appropriate size.
Remove the front panel from the fan. It is secured with one bolt at the bottom. The bolt was unscrewed and the grille was removed. The holes for the fasteners are now visible. We insert the fan in this form into place (into the duct), mark on the tile with a pencil or marker the places where the bolts will be.
Using a drill of the appropriate diameter, we make holes in the tile and wall to match the size of the dowel.
We make a cut in the tile where we will pass the power supply wire.
Insert the dowels.
We pull it through a special hole on the fan housing electric wires(if there is no hole, it is drilled).
Place it in place and tighten the bolts.
We connect the wires.
We check the functionality and install the grille.
For wooden toilets all this is only partly true. Read about
Ventilation in a bathroom in a private house

Here the main difficulties may arise when installing exhaust ducts. When planning, they can be brought together in one place and then brought out onto the roof. It's more difficult in terms of internal wiring- you will have to pull the air ducts to the right place, and it is also more expensive during construction. But appearance it turns out solid.

Another way to install ventilation ducts: lead it through the wall, and then along external wall lift up. According to the rules, for normal draft with natural ventilation, they must rise 50 cm above the ridge. But you will have one common air duct or a separate one for each room - it depends on your desire or on the layout. The picture will look something like this.

There is another option: make a mechanical hood that will work exclusively from the fan. Then, depending on the layout, one of the two options shown in the photo is suitable.

In the first case (on the left), the exhaust hole is made directly at the top of the wall (for air exchange to be effective, it should be located opposite the door, diagonally, at the top). With this device, a regular wall fan is used. The same figure shows how you can reduce the number of required channels. If your bathroom and toilet rooms are located next to each other, through a thin partition, then you can make a hole in the partition and install a grille. In this case, the ventilation of the bath will go through the toilet.

In the second option (pictured on the right) an air duct with a duct fan is used. The solution is simple, but there is one caveat: if the air duct ends under the roof overhang (it is short in the photo, but there are also long ones), then the wood will turn black after some time. If you conclude this from the toilet, this may not happen, but in the case of the bathroom, high humidity will make itself felt in a couple of years. In this case, you can “reach out” the air duct to the edge of the roof or bring it up through the knee (but raise it 50 cm above the roof).

High-quality ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is an integral element of the comfort and cleanliness of these premises. Unlike other rooms, they are subject to increased demands for convenience and neatness.

The intended purpose of such sanitary facilities implies the need to constantly maintain close to ideal cleanliness. The ventilation system plays one of the leading roles in this process.

Clean and fresh air is an indisputable condition for a comfortable stay in the room. But if in living rooms this condition is quite simple to comply with by means of ventilation through windows, then in the toilet and bathroom there are some difficulties with it. Not every bathroom in a private home can boast of having a sufficient window opening. Features of the location of premises in an apartment rarely imply the presence of a window as such.

Typical multi-apartment buildings, as a rule, “hide” the sanitary area in a “blind” box of a small area with a common air ventilation duct. It is implemented as a small hole under the ceiling, working according to the natural supply and exhaust principle.

Consequences of poor ventilation

Sanitary facilities in apartment buildings equipped with windows are mostly shared bathrooms in high-rise buildings non-standard type. However, even if there is a window opening, ventilation in the bathroom and toilet may not be intense enough, which will certainly cause discomfort for residents and visitors.

In fact, the rooms that most need high-quality cleaning from odors and moisture have the most difficult hood operation mechanism. In addition, the appearance of unpleasant odors is far from the most dangerous problem of poor ventilation of the sanitary area. Accumulated excess moisture is a favorable environment for the development of fungal mold and pathogens.

To avoid violation of hygiene standards, it is recommended to promptly select the appropriate type of ventilation for the bathroom and toilet.

It is also possible to improve existing ventilation - you can do this yourself. This measure is quite relevant for typical high-rise buildings.

Two types of ventilation systems

Statement the best way How to make ventilation in the bathroom and toilet usually comes down to a choice between two main system options - natural and forced. Each of them has its own merits. The comparison of options should be based on the current need and the effectiveness of the established this moment systems.

There are practically no difficulties with how to check the ventilation in sanitary rooms. If an unpleasant odor persists in the room for a long time, a feeling of stagnant, stale air appears, and the level of humidity noticeably increases - this is a signal to check the condition and effectiveness of the vents. The appearance of fungus on the walls and damp deposits is direct evidence of the need for urgent modernization of the air exchange system.

The hood in the bathroom and toilet should be selected and installed so that there is an intense flow of fresh air. Such a ventilation system will allow you to get rid of mold and mildew that arise from excess humidity in the bathroom.

In this article we will talk about the types of ventilation for the bathroom and toilet, the choice of a hood for a combined bathroom, which can also serve as a good element, about its correct installation and functioning.

The hood in the bathroom has a very simple design - in fact, it is an elementary ventilation system of a forced operation principle. It consists of a maximum of two parts - an air duct that connects to the ventilation riser of the house, as well as the fan itself.

Despite this simple design, she works great, and most importantly, she copes with the responsibilities assigned to her 100%.

Since we have come to the conclusion that the hood is nothing more than ventilation, then we should understand the principle of its operation. In almost all houses it operates using the supply and exhaust method.

If you suddenly don’t find a second ventilation duct that provides an influx of fresh air, know that it is provided by ventilating the apartment or house as a whole. This is why, in some situations, a duct designed to remove exhaust air from a bathroom can act as a supply air.

This state of affairs is a sign of completely or partially clogged air ducts. This often happens in apartment buildings, but in private buildings this effect practically does not occur. It is for this same reason that most people living in high-rise buildings equip their bathrooms with a forced exhaust air exhaust system.

Simply put, if the ventilation ducts are 100% clean, then there is no need for an exhaust hood for the toilet and bathroom - ventilation and removal of excess moisture is carried out due to natural air convection.

By the way, one of the reasons for poor ventilation is metal-plastic windows, which completely eliminate the effect of slot ventilation, which is what ventilation in old houses was largely designed for.

The device seems to have been sorted out, now it’s time to turn to the heart of the ventilation system for the bathroom or toilet. The fan is responsible for all the problems of old and clogged ventilation ducts. This device is ambiguous and may differ in some design elements that cannot be ignored.

Electric exhaust fan

Let's start by dividing all modern bathroom hoods into two types: simple and automatic. What is the difference between them? The fact is that the latter require minimal human participation in the air exchange process.

Simple hoods are an ordinary electric fan placed in a tubular housing. They can be activated either by a built-in switch or a separate switch. A fairly common way to turn it on is the switch key responsible for lighting the bathroom.

This approach to the matter is not very correct, since in this case the removal of polluted air is carried out only when a person is in the room. But the moisture does not have time to evaporate during this time. Therefore, it is advisable to install a separate switch for the fan.

Automatic hood. It differs from an ordinary one only in the presence of electronics that control its operation. Such devices can operate through two various methods– some of them are equipped with a shutdown timer (they turn on, like an ordinary hood, using the switch key), while others have special sensors that control the humidity in the bathroom.

As soon as it exceeds the permissible value, the fan turns on, after the humidity returns to normal, it turns off. This is enough convenient devices, which do not require human intervention to control their operation.

In addition, both types of bathroom hoods can be equipped with additional options.

Some models are equipped with a so-called non-return valve, which does not allow air to flow in the opposite direction - this nuance will be indispensable for residents of high-rise buildings, where the smell of borscht or burnt onions coming from neighbors is considered a common occurrence.

For residents of the private sector, whose bathroom ventilation has direct contact with the street, it would be a good idea to purchase a hood with an adjustable diffuser - by tightening or unscrewing the washer in the center of the hood, you can regulate the amount of air emitted to the street.

Types of fans for bathrooms and toilets

The functionality of ventilation devices is quite important, so you need to understand how to choose a hood for a bathroom or toilet. Today, all exhaust fans can be divided into two types.

The standard hood for the toilet and bathroom is a conventional axial system, equipped with a system designed to block the flow of exhaust air into the room.

This system can be turned on and off using a light switch, which is quite convenient. But with education large volumes steam while taking a bath, this system is ineffective.

An automatic hood is a more advanced, but also expensive device. Such devices are equipped with special timers that are set for a certain time period of operation, and more functional devices are equipped with a hydrostat, which determines the level of humidity in the room.

Having understood the basic parameters of the device, all that remains is to choose a suitable system, which without special problems you can install it yourself. In this case, fastening is carried out with standard self-tapping screws or glue.

Hood in the bathroom

Construction manuals clearly indicate the standards that must be followed for effective ventilation of sanitary premises with high humidity.

The system must provide fresh air for the bathroom or toilet at a speed of 25 cubic meters. m/hour, and for a combined unit twice as high - 50 cubic meters. m/hour. These standards are minimum.

Sometimes experts recommend removing air from the bathroom at a speed of about 150 cubic meters. m/hour.

Depending on the characteristics of air exchange, natural and forced ventilation are distinguished. In the first case, the exchange occurs due to the difference in air pressure outside and inside the room.

Air flows penetrate through windows, doors, special ventilators, etc. It is worth immediately noting that due to the nature of the bathroom design, the use of natural ventilation does not always achieve the desired effect.

To install ductless ventilation in the bathroom, it is necessary to make an opening that will connect the house ventilation duct with the bathroom room.

When forced or artificially ventilating a room, special fans are used to ensure sufficient air exchange.

Most often, a fan helps move air from indoors to outdoors, while fresh air masses enter the bathroom from living quarters. Sometimes a small fan is placed in the toilet, even with good natural ventilation, to speed up the purification of the air from unpleasant odors.

If it is not possible to naturally organize sufficiently intense air exchange, forced ventilation is mandatory.

Depending on the purpose there are:

exhaust;
supply;
mixed ventilation.

The exhaust principle has already been described a little above: air is removed through the ventilation duct, and new air is supplied from the outside. Supply ventilation is organized differently: air is pumped in from the outside and forced out through the channel.

When using mixed ventilation, both the air flow and its removal are regulated.

A beautiful decorative grille for an exhaust hood in a bathroom will not only hide the structure, but can also become an eye-catching detail.

Experts also distinguish between duct and non-duct ventilation, which is characterized by the presence or absence of a ventilation duct.

Creating dedicated channels should be avoided whenever possible. Usually, an opening is made in the wall that opens into the common ventilation duct of a multi-story building, and a fan is installed in it.

In a separate bathroom, if there is access to the ventilation duct in only one room, another fan is installed in the wall opening between the bathroom and the toilet.

Installing a separate ventilation duct makes sense in places that require intensive removal of polluted or moisture-saturated air.

Before making a choice in favor of one or another air exchange system, you need to familiarize yourself with the types and principles of operation of such systems. Bathroom hood can be organized using natural or forced methods.

Natural exhaust.

This hood works due to the action of natural factors, such as the difference in air pressure and temperature in the room and outside.

Exhaust air is removed through a ventilation duct running in the wall of the house. Enough for air exchange open window or a door through which fresh air enters.

Very often, especially in apartment buildings of old buildings, ventilation ducts become clogged or clogged due to the destruction of ventilation caps on the roof of the buildings. In this case natural exhaust does not work in bathrooms.

Natural ventilation systems are inexpensive, easy to install and maintain, and do not require energy supply.

Natural exhaust in the bathroom and toilet is a simple and economical solution to the problem of ventilation if there is good draft. At the same time, one cannot ignore its shortcomings:

unstable operation in hot weather, in which there is no required temperature difference;
high sensitivity to clogging of ventilation ducts.

Mechanical hood.

This type of exhaust system operates through the operation of fans that forcefully remove contaminated air flow into the exhaust ventilation ducts. The installation of such ventilation can be done at any time, while natural ventilation channels are laid during the construction stage.

Forced hoods in the bathroom and toilet are installed in the following cases:

absence or poor functioning of natural air exchange;
remodeling the bathroom or combining it with a toilet, when part of the ventilation ducts is removed;
installation of electrical equipment that increases the formation of steam, the volume of which is not completely removed by natural exhaust;
the room is small - the hood in the bathroom does not have time to remove the amount of moisture and steam generated when taking a bath or shower.

The disadvantage of forced ventilation is the need for electricity and the need to lay wires to each fan.

Ventilation check

There are two simplest ways to check the operation of the hood in the bathroom and toilet without the use of special equipment - using a candle or a sheet of paper.

A burning candle is brought to the ventilation duct - when ventilation is running, the flame deflects, indicating the direction of air flow. In the absence of draft, the flame remains vertical.

To check the correct operation of the ventilation system, you can take advice from specialists. To do this, you will need a regular sheet of paper, which is attached to ventilation grille in the bathroom or toilet and if it is held on it by the air flow, then everything is in order with the hood.

In turn, if paper falls on the floor, then you need to think about installing an exhaust fan.

I would like to note that even a normally functioning system does not always cope with its responsibilities, since it works due to the difference in temperatures inside the apartment and outside.

Very often in the summer, when it is very hot outside the room, the natural ventilation system becomes absolutely useless and does not remove unpleasant odors from the toilet.

Poor ventilation can also be caused by insufficient fresh air flow. This problem is typical for old houses after installation plastic windows. To solve this problem, windows with ventilators should be installed.

How not to make a mistake when choosing an exhaust device

If there is poor air circulation in the bathroom or toilet, moisture accumulates on the ceiling and walls, causing water droplets to condense and mold and mildew to form. And due to the lack of windows to let in fresh air from the street, the only the right decision There will be an installation of an electric exhaust fan for a toilet or bathroom.

In this case, when buying an exhaust device, you need to proceed from the following criteria:

the total area of the toilet or bathroom used for ventilation;
number of residents using the bathroom.

In order to save electricity, it is better to choose exhaust devices with a built-in power regulator and a built-in function for disconnecting the device from the mains if such a need arises. To buy an exhaust device that best suits a particular room, you need to understand its main characteristics.

The performance of the exhaust device is one of the most important parameters. If settling in exhaust system, passing from the toilet through the bathroom, this means that it will process fairly large volumes of air and standard exhaust fans in the toilet with a very low level of efficiency will not cope with the task assigned to them.

Device safety - an electric hood for a toilet or bathroom must comply with all regulatory parameters safety and is housed in a sealed housing. Vapors and moisture often accumulate on the ceiling, so even hoods placed on ceiling surface, must be protected from the effects of such external factors.

Due to the fact that the majority multi-storey buildings equipped with a common exhaust duct for several apartments, upon purchase ventilation device you need to choose systems equipped with a check valve.

First of all, this is due to the fact that the exhaust air is saturated unpleasant aromas from the ventilation duct, can penetrate back into the room. In addition, the check valve protects the room from the penetration of dust, fluff and other dirt from the street.

Before you begin installing a ventilation system in a bathroom or toilet, you need to decide on the location of the exhaust fan. The hood structure should be located opposite the door at the top of the wall or on the ceiling.

In this case, you need to worry about the presence of electrical wiring, of course, if the fan is not equipped with a battery. After choosing a convenient location, you can proceed to installation, during which experts advise adhering to the following recommendations.

It is better to install ventilation for a bathroom or toilet during the renovation process in the apartment.
It is better to connect the fan from.
The wiring going to the fan can be hidden in grooves.
To greatly simplify the installation process and protect the fan from external influences, into the hole in the wall, insert plastic pipe, which is easily fixed cement mortar. But before that you need to connect the device.
If the ceiling height in the bathroom or toilet is sufficient, then you can use a more functional, albeit complex ventilation structure, constructed using plastic boxes, fixing the device itself directly above the toilet.
When connecting the exhaust device, it is important to study in detail the instructions included with the fan in order to correctly connect it to the power supply.

Apartment buildings are usually designed in such a way that the ventilation duct is located directly behind the wall of the bathroom or toilet. All that remains is to carefully make a hole in the right place (if there is none) so that it goes into this channel.

A radial axial fan is installed inside the opening. The device is connected to the power supply, observing all the requirements for the operation of electrical appliances in rooms with high humidity.

If necessary, install additional controls (timer, gyroscope, etc.). The niche is covered with a beautiful decorative grille. If the apartment has separate bathroom, and the ventilation duct is located behind the walls of both rooms, the second fan is installed in the same way as described above.

Otherwise, the ventilation hole is made in the wall separating the toilet and bathroom. A fan is also placed in this opening and covered with decorative screens on both sides.

Sometimes it is more convenient to use decorative grilles, in which the design provides for installation of the fan in special sockets.

The figure clearly shows a diagram of connecting an exhaust fan to the power supply using a timer, which allows you to turn off the fan some time after the visitor leaves the bathroom.

It is somewhat more difficult to solve the problem of bathroom ventilation when the ventilation duct borders another room. In this case, you will have to create duct ventilation.

First you need to choose a location for the device vent in the bathroom and toilet. Then you need to draw up a plan for placing a ventilation duct through which air masses will move outward.

When creating duct ventilation in a bathroom, a flexible corrugated duct is used only in small areas where installation of other structures is impossible or difficult

plastic round or rectangular;
hard or soft corrugated metal;
metal, tin or galvanized, usually rectangular in cross-section.

Plastic boxes are easier to install and lighter in weight than metal constructions, at the same time they are durable and easy to care for.

Therefore, plastic structures are confidently replacing metal with construction market. Corrugated products are used extremely rarely; they are permissible only for short distances and are used only in particularly difficult cases.

After completing the installation of the ventilation system, it is necessary to check the operation of the equipment.

Let's give an example self-installation hoods when a ventilation duct is provided in the room:

we check the functionality of the ventilation shaft;
if the channel is clogged, we clean it with our own hands; if the area of the hole does not accommodate the dimensions of the device, carefully use a chisel and hammer to increase it to the required size;
remove the external grille from the fan, insert the device into the hole in the ventilation duct and fasten it using self-tapping screws or liquid nails;
make sure that the device is tightly located in the opening of the ventilation duct;
cover with a grate and use sealant to seal the joints between the outer grate and the wall;
connect the wires to the electrical network;
For aesthetic reasons, it is better to choose a grille design that matches the style of the bathroom.

By installing a hood in a bathroom or toilet, you will prevent the formation of condensation on the walls and metal surfaces faucets, eliminate unpleasant odors - the air in the bathroom will be clean and the room dry.

Common mistakes when installing ventilation

It happens that the performance of a brand new ventilation system suddenly turns out to be unsatisfactory or is initially ineffective.

This may occur due to one or more errors made during its installation. When figuring out how to properly ventilate a bathroom, you should immediately take these points into account.

The ventilation duct is not designed correctly, making it difficult to move air masses.
The tightness of the ventilation duct connections is broken.
The fans are installed incorrectly and make too much noise.
The duct passes through the living quarters in such a way that the ventilation noise interferes with the normal functioning of the family.

First you need to find out the cause of the problem, then fix it. A number of troubles can be avoided by paying attention to these points at the design stage of the ventilation system.

If this was not done, and problems appeared during the operation of the structure, the entire ventilation system may need to be seriously reworked.

Alternative option troubleshooting is to use sound absorbers different types to reduce unpleasant sound effects. To improve the process of moving air masses, you may have to install a more powerful fan.

Sometimes excessive noise during fan operation indicates that it was installed incorrectly, in which the so-called “alignment” was disrupted. In this case, it is enough to remove the device and install it again with strict adherence to the installation technology.

Usually after this the amount of noise from the fan operation is significantly reduced.

The supply type of ventilation in bathrooms is used extremely rarely, but if such a decision is made, you should think about the temperature of the air coming from outside.

In winter, the flow of cold air can cause extremely unpleasant sensations for visitors to the bathroom. To solve this type of problem, the air entering the room is heated using special electrical appliances.

an exhaust fan is not enough if the room does not have a normal flow of fresh air;
a large and bulky duct ventilation system is not always more effective than low-cost ventilation methods if they are selected correctly;
the presence of an air conditioner in the house, as well as a purifier, ionizer, humidifier and other similar devices does not provide normal ventilation of the rooms, since with their help fresh air does not enter the rooms.

Typically, the design of a ventilation system for a bathroom is very simple; you can do it yourself.

But if some calculations or execution of a ventilation duct are required complex shape, and the novice master does not have experience in such work, it is better to consult with professionals or completely entrust them with all the work.

The quality of ventilation cannot be neglected, since the health of the residents of the house depends on its condition.

Today, a hood in the toilet is not a luxury at all, but an essential necessity when arranging a bathroom. In most cases, this room does not have windows, so there is no access to fresh air. In addition, there will always be an unpleasant odor and high humidity, which will subsequently lead to the appearance of mold and various fungi. It is these problems that ventilation in the bathroom solves.

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Types of ventilation

The type of ventilation system plays a very important role in the design of the bathroom. There are many manufacturers of such equipment who produce products of varying quality. In general, ventilation is divided into two types:

forced;
natural.

If we talk about natural ventilation, then everything is simple. Even at the time of construction of the house, ventilation shafts are installed directly in the walls or on them. Their main function is to ensure the flow of fresh air into the room and the removal of exhaust air to the street. In fact, this is the natural circulation of the room.

As practice shows, to ensure a sufficient amount of oxygen and a good microclimate in a house or, more importantly, in an office building, forced exhaust must be used. To do this, fans are installed directly into the shafts. Depending on the type of device, the fan may be in a box or without it. If a high-quality forced exhaust in the toilet, and its power is correctly selected, then there will be no problems with excess odors and strong humidity.

Hood in the bathroom and toilet. Connection secrets from Alexey Zemskov

The toilet room differs from other rooms in the house in that it is visited only briefly. In this regard, ventilation should also occur only periodically.

For correct selection During this time, you just need to observe the microclimate in the room. First, you should purchase ventilation with a timer, and then set the ideal operating mode, while the costs will be minimal. It is also necessary to take into account that in summer ventilation should work 20-30% more efficiently.

Surprisingly, unpleasant odors can also appear with a fan, which is facilitated by their penetration through ventilation shafts from other apartments in the high-rise building. This is especially noticeable on the first floors. The problem can be solved simply by purchasing a fan with a check valve.

The operating principle of the system is also simple. When the fan is inactive, the damper closes it, and after the fan starts working, the air flow calmly pushes it aside and draws stale air out of the room. After the operation stops, the damper closes again.

Device selection rules

Today, the ventilation equipment market is quite highly developed. There is a large selection, and an ordinary user will not be able to quickly choose a decent model that would suit his needs and meet all standards. Each individual product has its own functional features, power, equipment. To make the right choice, a person without experience should simply listen to a few tips and Pay attention to the key characteristics of the device:

equipment performance;
safety in use;
noise level during operation.

It is worth noting that the hood is equipped with protection against moisture getting inside the housing. If such protection is not provided, this can lead to a short circuit, damage to the wiring and failure of the ventilation system. In this regard, it is worth paying attention to devices with strong protection from moisture, and the voltage should be from 12 or 24 V.

The performance level is also an important indicator when choosing ventilation equipment. For getting exact number The required equipment power requires complex mathematical calculations. But this can also be done in simple ways. It is worth considering one rule - the hood must pump 12 volumes of the room in 1 hour. Only then can you hope for high-quality operation of the equipment and fresh air in the bathroom.

If the calculations are made, then it is recommended to buy equipment with a power slightly higher than the obtained figure. This must be done so that the hood in the bathroom does not work at full capacity, but has a certain reserve. The opposite situation can lead to the equipment simply burning out.

Ventilation in the wall of a private house / for toilets from odors /

You can often find devices on the market where the productivity is at the level of 100 cubic meters per hour. For the average bathroom this will be more than enough.

Any range hood model will make noise, even if the manufacturer positions it as silent. The sound can be either mechanical or aerodynamic. The first occurs due to the operation of the device’s motor, and the second occurs from the vibration of the blade itself.

Maximum permissible level noise level for such devices is 40 dB, and normal is 25 dB. This data must be indicated in the instructions for the device. But if you like the design, and the sound level from the work is off the charts, then you can additionally install special sound insulation.

Self-installation

Installing a hood in the toilet yourself is not too difficult, especially if the option is overhead and you just need to mount the device into the hole. But in any case, the work will consist of several key stages.

Installation consists of the following steps:

We make ventilation with our own hands at no cost

There are situations in which you cannot do without the help of specialists. For example, if there are several switches in the room or the hood for the toilet and bathroom is shared, then in this case you won’t be able to figure it out on your own without experience.

Suitable place for hood

When carrying out the work of installing a hood in a toilet with your own hands, you should pay attention to several key factors and listen to the advice of specialists, otherwise you will not be able to do the job efficiently on your own. The device simply will not function effectively.

Things to consider:

If the connection to the electrical network is shared, then you need to remember that the hood will not work when the lights are off. This is not entirely convenient, so it is recommended to choose another option - installing a separate switch.

Devices with additional functions

If you install a separate switch for the device, then the model itself can be selected with additional useful functions. They will make use more convenient.

If the toilet and bathroom are located separately in the house, then only one fan can be used. In this case, you just need to connect the fan with a corrugation in the wall. This will allow ventilation of two rooms at the same time.

Inexperienced people who have previously installed ventilation systems haven’t encountered it, it will be useful to learn some tips from the experts.

There is no need to purchase expensive and large models. Extra spending will not always lead to better results. The main thing here is to choose the right high-quality device with the required power. Even cheaper models can perform the basic function perfectly.

If an air conditioner, ionizer, humidifier and similar devices are already installed in the house, then you should not forget about ventilation. This is necessary because the above devices do not provide fresh air.

You need to pay attention not only to the power of the device, but also to the manufacturer. Often even inexpensive models famous manufacturers have good quality.

If the ventilation system with natural circulation is not enough, you need to install devices for forced ventilation of the room. This will allow you to constantly have fresh air. By installing even the simplest fan, the microclimate in the room will become comfortable.

Thus, install exhaust fan It won’t be difficult, the main thing is to approach this issue responsibly. It is worth remembering the key factors by which you should choose a device, namely performance, diameter, manufacturer and quality.

High-quality indoor ventilation is probably one of the most important points that should be discussed when preparing for renovation. A bathroom in an apartment is a delicate place both in its purpose and in functionality.

High-quality ventilation of the bathroom and toilet will ensure a comfortable microclimate throughout the apartment, since the exhaust ventilation duct is located either in the combined bathroom or in the toilet. Faulty ventilation in the toilet and bathroom can harm not only fresh renovations and finishing materials, but also your health.

Types of bathroom ventilation

Ventilation in an apartment is of three types according to its purpose:

exhaust(exhaust air is removed through the ventilation shaft);
inlet(provides fresh air from the street into the room);
mixed(organizes air movement in the room due to the exhaust and supply type).

As a rule, in the bathroom they organize only exhaust ventilation . The easiest way to organize air flow is in living rooms.

By design Ventilation in the bathroom is divided into ductless and ducted. Ventilation of the first type occurs due to a hole in the wall through which exhaust air enters the general ventilation duct of the residential building. apartment building. Duct ventilation is a complex of ventilation equipment, most often in the form of pipes running under the ceiling. Suitable for servicing large premises: office buildings, shopping centers etc.

According to the organization system air circulation in the bathroom, ventilation can be natural or forced.

At natural(or gravity) ventilation system, the flow of fresh air is carried out through windows and doorways, and the effectiveness of ventilation depends on the difference in temperature and pressure outside and indoors - than more difference, the better the air exchange occurs. Simply put, fresh air enters the apartment through the window and exits through the exhaust ventilation duct.

However, natural ventilation in the bathroom does not always cope with its task.

Here are a few reasons why the apartment is not ventilated:

accumulation of debris in the ventilation duct;
tight closed windows and interior doors.

It’s easy to check the tightness of the doors in the bathroom - there should be a gap under the door through which a newspaper will pass. If you are not satisfied with the presence of cracks, install a door with a ventilation grill.

Blocking the movement of air masses leads to high humidity- a favorable environment for the active life of bacteria, which can cause allergic reactions and respiratory problems. Humid air in the bathroom also promotes the formation of mold and mildew stains. Finishing materials will begin to deteriorate, pipes will begin to rust, the service life of bathroom furniture and plumbing fixtures will be significantly reduced, the strength load-bearing structures at home will decrease. All this is fraught with costs for further repairs.

The toilet in the apartment also needs high-quality ventilation so that unpleasant odors do not stagnate and cause discomfort to your household and guests.

Diagnosis of ventilation status

To check the ventilation in the bathroom and toilet, you must:

open the window in any nearby room and the door to the bathroom;
Attach a piece of paper or a napkin to the opening of the ventilation shaft.

The air flow, which is not obstructed by anything, should attract the sheet of paper to the air duct grille. If this does not happen or the sheet holds weakly, then the natural ventilation system is broken.

Here are a few more factors that will help you understand that the ventilation is faulty:

the mirror fogs up a lot after taking a bath or shower;
feels heavy, damp air;
moisture accumulates on walls and furniture;
other types of mold have appeared;
unpleasant odors do not go away.

You might think that it is enough to clean the natural ventilation channels and breathing will become much easier, unpleasant odors will go away, and dampness in the bathroom and toilet will no longer spoil your expensive finishing and plumbing fixtures. However, this is not always enough.

A common myth in the world of indoor ventilation is that natural exhaust is productive all year round. Even if you do not observe on the walls and the mirror surfaces do not fog up, you should understand that the natural ventilation hood works when the air temperature outside the window is significantly lower than the temperature readings inside the room. The rest of the time it does not function.

The principle of operation of the gravity (natural) ventilation system is based on the difference in air density. Warm air is displaced by a cold stream, since it is lighter, and is discharged through exhaust ducts. This means that you can only get rid of dampness in the bathroom in the cold season if the window is open (or in ventilation mode), which is not always suitable for our frosty winters. Moreover, you will have to keep the doors open both in the bathroom and in the toilet.

Therefore, forced ventilation of the bathroom will come to your aid.

Forced ventilation

Forced ventilation of the bathroom and toilet is a reasonable alternative to the classic one. This method of ventilation involves installing a fan that will clean the air from unpleasant odors, including foreign odors from neighboring apartments, the entrance and the street.

Types of Exhaust Fans

TO household fans, which you can install in your bathroom include:

channel;
wall-mounted

Wall fan is fixed at the entrance exhaust vent, duct - inside the air duct. Both types will ensure the removal of stale air and high-quality circulation.

Based on the type of design, fans are divided into:

Axial(aka axial). Advanced view. Available in price and installation. The body of an axial fan has the shape of a cylinder; inside there is a wheel with blades, most often with a check valve. Rotating, the blades “capture” air and remove it from the room. The device is mounted at the entrance to the ventilation duct.
Radial. Radial fan consists of a motor, a rotating wheel with blades, and is enclosed in a metal housing. It has a spiral shape, visually reminiscent of a “snail”.

The fan may have the following set of devices and functions:

timer,
humidity and motion sensors,
operation from a light switch,
separate switch key.

The first two options are quite expensive and have their own inconveniences when used. The motion sensor is most often installed in the door, which requires additional investment and time. The disadvantage of a fan with a timer is that if you stay late in the toilet, the fan will stop working earlier than you expected. The motion sensor is inconvenient because under similar conditions (there was not enough time), you will have to open the door slightly for the sensor to work. This can put you in an awkward position, especially if you have guests in your apartment.

Basic requirements for organizing forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

To choose a suitable fan, you must first familiarize yourself with the requirements of SNiP ( Building codes and rules) in sections SP 60.13330.2012 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning” (updated edition of SNiP 41-01-2003) and SP 54.13330.2016 “Residential multi-apartment buildings” (updated edition of SNiP 31-01-2003). According to the standards of these sections, the volume of exhaust air in sanitary premises must be 25 m 3 /h.

Concerning noise level, modern fans are distinguished by their low noise. In individual cases, you can use sound-absorbing materials by installing them inside the air duct immediately before installing the fan. You can also purchase a virtually silent fan, but you will have to spend some money.

Installation of ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

Even if you have ready-made air ducts, it is better to entrust the fan installation to specialists.

The higher the hood is located in the room, the better: warm air is displaced by cool, fresh air and rises upward.
When organizing bathroom ventilation in a private house, please note that the fan should be located opposite the source of fresh air (opposite the door or in the opposite corner) and further from the water source.
Before starting installation, you should clean the ventilation duct with a brush. If the ventilation shaft is filled with large debris, call a specialist from the housing office to clean the ventilation ducts.
If the bathroom is separate, a fan should also be installed in the ventilation duct in the toilet (bathroom), but provided there is no ventilation window between the bath and toilet.

One of the main functions of the window between the bathroom and the toilet is natural ventilation. Such windows were popular in Khrushchev buildings.

The fan is mounted in the hood opening, securing the structure with self-tapping screws, dowels or construction adhesive. If necessary, you can expand the exhaust opening to a suitable diameter. Connect all the wires and hide them in a special box to protect them from moisture.

When connecting the fan to the lighting system, you should study the instructions in detail, turn off the electricity in the apartment, and only then begin installing the equipment.

A forced fan in your bathroom and toilet will ensure clean air and extend the life of your furniture and plumbing fixtures. Do not forget to maintain the fan by periodically wiping dust from the device, washing the plastic parts once a year and lubricating the motor of the mechanism.