Several budget-friendly ways to lay paving slabs in your summer cottage. Step-by-step installation instructions

In the process of improving the area around country house or a summer residence, responsible owners cannot do without organizing paths, areas in front of the house or in the depths of the garden, intended for summer recreation or parking a car. The easiest way, of course, is to roll them into asphalt or concrete, but these materials will in no way add aesthetics and exclusivity to the site. Therefore, recently, most homestead owners have opted for paving slabs.

It is quite possible, but it will take a lot of time, so it is better to do this work with an assistant. The process must be carried out strictly in stages, and each of the technological steps should be performed carefully and slowly.

Tools and materials for work

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare everything necessary for this - work equipment and materials.

• The tools you will need are:

— Shovels - bayonet and shovel for excavating soil.

— Rake for leveling bulk construction materials.

— Wooden stakes or pins from pieces of reinforcement, as well as twine (cord) for marking the territory.

— Rubber hammer for leveling tiles and borders.

— Construction level and tape measure.

— A brush or broom for spreading sand over the laid tiles.

— Tamping is manual or mechanical, depending on the size of the area to be improved.

— A long, straight pipe or guides for leveling the sand if the tiles will be laid without a cement-sand mixture.

— Grinder with a disc for cutting stone. You can’t do without it if you have to cut sidewalk blocks.

• Materials to complete the work must be purchased:

A) The paving slabs themselves. It can be made using different technologies and from different materials. Accordingly, its characteristics are somewhat different. Some basic properties different types paving slabs– in the attached table:

In addition, when purchasing paving slabs, it is necessary to take into account other points that are important for the reliability and aesthetics of future paths and areas. For example, for an area that will not experience heavy loads, one with a thickness of up to 60 mm is quite suitable. If it is assumed that a car will drive into the area being paved, then it is necessary to choose paving stones with a thickness of 60 millimeters or more.

At the same time, of course, the owners must decide on the configuration of the tiles, their colors, etc. Different types and the shades of the blocks allow you to lay out mosaic designs, therefore, if you want to go beyond simple “gray” paving, you should think in advance about the pattern and, accordingly, the number of tiles of one color or another shape. It is possible that the table below with some popular models of paving slabs will help with this:

L- length, IN — width, N-height

What else should you pay attention to? Special attention when choosing tiles, in addition to the above characteristics? There are criteria for evaluating paving blocks that have been tested practically:

— The quality of the tiles can be determined without looking at the characteristics by hitting one block against another - if you hear a dull sound, then too much water has been added to the mixture for making paving stones. If the sound upon impact turns out to be ringing, then the tile is made according to technology and is of high quality.

— If you like paving stones that have a very bright color, but their cost is quite low, then, most likely, coloring pigments were used Low quality, which, firstly, are unstable in themselves, and secondly, significantly reduce the strength qualities of the tile.

It is very important to buy tiles from the same production batch, because otherwise the blocks may differ not only in size and color, but also in the composition of the mixture from which they were made.

Like all Construction Materials, paving slabs must be purchased with a “reserve”, based on 15% more than the area of ​​​​the proposed paving. Spare blocks will be needed in case of accidental damage, detection of defects, damage and inevitable waste during cutting.

b) Curbs for fencing a paved area.

V) Geotextiles, the size of which must exceed the area of ​​the masonry by 200 ÷ 250 mm on each side, so that it fits onto the walls of the recesses for laying layers.

G) Materials for laying beddinglayers — sand, gravel or crushed stone, cement. Their number is calculated depending on the area to be covered, the number, type and expected thickness of the backfill layers.

d) Spray paint bright color. It is convenient for them to make preliminary markings without any effort. Paint can be replaced with lime, which is scattered to mark the edges of the future path or area.

e) Reinforcing grid for concreting the site. It is not always needed - it will only be required if the base for the masonry needs to be strengthened.

Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to marking work on the site.

Prices for paving slabs

Paving slabs

Marking the territory

The first thing that needs to be done is to determine and mark the area where the area or path that needs to be paved will be located. For the preliminary stage, you will need a tape measure and a can of bright-colored paint. Measurements should begin from the house, gate, fence or other building to which the tiled area will be adjacent.

The required distance in length and width is measured from the building, and marks are made in the form of dots or lines with paint. If the path is to be covered with tiles, then several more measurements are taken in its direction to maintain the specified width. It is recommended to adjust the area parameters to the size of the tile, that is, it is best to set the dimensions as multiples of the tile parameters, so that you have to cut it as little as possible.

Having made preliminary markings that will set the direction or define the area of ​​the site, you can proceed to precise markings with the installation of pegs and tensioning of cords.

In any case, all measurements and drawing lines begin from one specific reference point, to which the further location of all other landmarks is tied.

Let's assume that the corner of the house is taken as the reference point. In this case, around it and across the width of the path or platform, as well as at its end, pegs are driven in, onto which a string is stretched, limiting the place where further work will be carried out.

When marking the main area of ​​a path or resting place, we must not forget that the structure of all layers will have to be supported by curbs, for which it is also necessary to provide space on one or both sides of the paving slabs being laid.

1 - pegs;

2 - twine;

3 - soil after removing the soil;

4 - backfilling with sand.

Preliminary site preparation

The preparation of the site is carried out in different ways, depending on its purpose, since not only paths and recreation areas are laid with paving slabs, but also parking lots for cars, which require higher strength. Therefore, site preparation and layering may vary.

In any case, whatever the site is intended for, after determining its exact location, proceed to preparatory work, which involves digging a relatively shallow pit. Its depth will depend on the materials of the layers being laid and their thickness. For work you will need a bayonet and shovel, as well as a wheelbarrow for transporting cut soil.

The top layer of soil must be removed to a thickness of up to 150 ÷ ​​200 mm, along with the roots of all plants located in this area. This fertile soil should not be taken outside the site - it can be used for landscaping

If additional reinforcement is needed to construct the site, the pit is deepened to 400 ÷ 500 mm.

The area freed from soil should be fairly level; it would be a good idea to walk along it with a hand tamper to compact the top loose soil. If serious depressions have formed on it in the process of excavating the soil, they must be sprinkled with soil and these places must be further compacted, bringing the entire surface to the same level.

These works are carried out in the same way for laying tiles on a wide variety of sites or paths, but further preparation work can vary significantly.

First option

First of all, it is worth considering how the bedding layers are laid for areas that will not be exposed to this: paths, recreation areas or pedestrian areas in front of the house, blind areas around it.

In this case, the following materials are placed in a prepared pit on the ground surface - geotextiles, crushed stone or gravel, sand and a cement-sand mixture. It should be noted that sometimes paving slabs are simply laid on a compacted layer of sand.

Following this scheme, the backfill layers must be laid as follows:

• Geotextiles are laid on the ground, which will prevent vegetation from growing through the laid layers and paving slabs. In addition, in a certain way it also performs a kind of reinforcing function.
• Above is a layer of gravel or crushed stone, which is poured with a slight elevation at the center of the site or path - this must be done so that the water does not linger on the paved surface, but flows down to the side of the curbs. The gravel is then leveled and rolled, but the shape of the sloping “hill” is maintained. The compacted layer should be 100 ÷ 150 mm.

• After the gravel has been compacted, the site is fenced with curbs around the entire perimeter or along the future path.

Borders enclosing the site are installed between it and the vertical edge of the soil located along the perimeter of the area (or along the path). Curb blocks are secured to the block, laid on a compacted bed of crushed stone or gravel. The evenness of the curbs is measured by level and, if necessary, adjusted with a rubber hammer.

Fencing blocks can also be placed on top of sand. In any case, the trench for their installation must have such a depth that after laying the tiles, the curb rises above it at the level of the paved area by 50 ÷ 60% of its height.

• Next, it is poured onto the gravel layer of sand that spread over the surface using a rake, well moistened, and then compacted. When compacted, the thickness of the sand layer should be from 50 to 100 mm.

Sand can be compacted using manual tamper, roller or special compacting machine - this will depend on the size of the area being prepared.

• The next step is to prepare a sand-cement mixture and spread it on top of the sand, then moisten it and also compact it. In the compacted state, the thickness of this layer should be 20 ÷ 40 mm.

The second preparation option is for heavy loads

This preparation option is carried out if the site is intended for parking. It is clear that for such a purpose a stronger and more reliable base is required so that the surface does not sag over time. This is exactly the option when the pit should have a depth of 400-500 mm.

• In this case, sand is backfilled onto the prepared and compacted soil. It is moistened and compacted, and the finished sand layer should be 100 ÷ 150 mm. To accurately determine the thickness of the layers, their size can be marked in advance on the walls of the pit. To do this, the height is measured with a tape measure and marked with spray paint through a thin tube along the entire perimeter of the pit.
• The next layer, consisting of gravel or the middle fraction of crushed stone, is laid in the same way. It is also leveled and compacted, and in the compacted state it should be at least 100 ÷ 150 mm. This “pillow” will serve as a reliable basis for the next layer.
• To strengthen the base for the paving stones, a reinforcing metal grid with cells of 80 × 80 or 100 × 100 mm is laid on the gravel layer. The finished lattice can be replaced with metal rods of reinforcement 6 ÷ 8 mm thick, which are laid in the form of a lattice and fastened with twisted wire.

• Guide beacons are installed on the grille. They are raised to the height of the screed thickness, which should be about 100 ÷ 120 mm. Beacons are set according to construction level and fixed to slides made of concrete mortar.
• While the solution dries, curbs are installed around the site, and if they are not provided or they are planned to be installed later, then formwork made of bricks or boards is installed for the screed at its height.
• After the solution under the beacons has set, concrete consisting of sand and cement can be poured onto the site in a 3:1 ratio. The solution is distributed over the surface, the thickness above the beacons, and then, using a rule that is guided along guides, like on rails, it is leveled to their level. It is advisable to fill the entire area in one go. If you have to postpone the pouring of part of the site until tomorrow, then it is recommended to cover the already filled area plastic film. The screed is left to set and harden - this period will last from 7 to 12 days. To make the screed more durable, it must be moistened daily with water for 3 ÷ 5 days, starting from the day after pouring, and then covered with plastic film.
• When the screed is ready, along its perimeter concrete mortar curbs are installed. This option is suitable if the enclosing elements are of small height. The solution under the curbs should also set, and only after that can you move on to the next layer.

• Temporary beacons 20 ÷ 40 mm high are installed on a flat fenced concrete surface - this is exactly the height that the next dry layer consisting of sand and cement should have. It is mixed in advance and poured onto a concrete area, and then distributed with a shovel and rake, and after that it is leveled according to the beacons.

Third option - when laying sand tiles

This option is most often chosen, apparently because it is less labor-intensive than the two described above. In this method, paving is carried out on a sand cushion.

1 - soil;

2 - curbs;

3 - concrete solution;

4 - crushed stone;

5 - sand;

6 - paving stones.

• If this installation option is chosen, then the pit should have a depth of 200 ÷ 250 mm, but along its perimeter or along the edges of the path a trench is dug 100 ÷ 150 mm deeper than the main pit. This trench will be necessary for installing curbs - this is where preparation for the main work begins.

• Crushed stone of the middle fraction is poured into the trench and compacted in a layer of 50 mm.
• A thick concrete solution is laid on top of it.
• Curbs are placed on it and leveled. Having installed them, you do not need to wait for the concrete to set - you can immediately move on to the next operation. The height of the curb should be calculated in such a way that after laying the tiles, it rises above it by 70 ÷ 80 mm.

• A backfill of crushed stone is made at the bottom of the entire pit between the curbs, which is leveled and compacted. When compacted, the thickness of this layer should be 100 ÷ 120 mm. The crushed stone layer serves as a strengthening component of the structure, as well as its drainage, which will prevent water from stagnating under the tiles.
• Sand is poured on top of the crushed stone, wetted, compacted, and then its surface is leveled along the lines installed deep into the sand guide beacons. The thickness of the sand layer should also be 100 ÷ 120 mm.

It should be noted that it is better to level compacted sand over large areas while laying the tiles, so as not to carry out this work twice. When part of the site is paved with paving stones, it will be possible to level the entire surface, and further work can be done while standing on the already paved section of the site, that is.

install the tiles yourself.

Laying paving slabs

• Before you start laying tiles on the prepared surface, you need to understand the design of joining blocks of different shapes and sizes. This “training process” can be carried out on an ordinary flat surface, for example, on a workbench. and will consist of two or three types or sizes of tiles, then in order not to get confused, it is best to draw up a diagram that you can keep next to you while working.

• If there is a stop line on the site for the first row, for example, the wall of a house, then you can start laying from there. It will be easier to install the tiles starting from the installed border, since it has smooth surfaces and is already horizontally level.

• The first row of masonry is laid along a smooth, defined line, and it should consist of solid tiles. If shaped tiles are laid, then its cutting parts, which will make the outer rows even, are laid after the installation of the paving stones on the main area of ​​the site is completed.
• The tile, laid on a sand or combined cushion, is pressed well against its surface and tapped with a rubber hammer.

There is always a small gap between individual paving blocks, from 3 to 5 mm. If you look at quality tiles carefully, you can see that this gap will be provided by special profile protrusions, which are vertically located on the side edges.

• Next comes the second row provided by the diagram. If you select paving stones that have different size and curly edges, then the joints between two rows will become a kind of lock that will not allow one tile to move away from the other.

The third and subsequent rows are installed in the same way.

• If there are obstacles in the way of the masonry, for example, a canopy pipe or a sewer hatch, whole tiles are installed around them, and laying out the halves should also be left until the end of the work, when the whole tile has been laid over the entire site.

• Having reached before waiting station under drainpipe(if paving is being done around the base of the building), first check installation and depth of the storm inlet itself with a grate, and connection of the outlet pipe to it. Then this entire structure is covered with a layer of sand with appropriate compaction, and then paving slabs are laid on top.

• Having laid out a certain area, the paving stones are immediately “swept”, that is, the gaps between the individual tiles are filled with a mixture of sifted dry sand and cement (the usual proportion for this is 5:1 or even 6:1). The dry mixture is poured onto the laid tiles, and then the entire surface is swept with a brush or broom with slight pressure, thus filling all the gaps between the tiles with this mixture.

• When the entire surface is covered, you can begin adjusting and installing the cutting parts. The remaining empty spaces are carefully measured, then a cut line is marked on the tile, along which the cut is made using a grinder with a stone wheel installed. The remaining empty areas of the site are filled with ready-made fragments, and then the same backfilling and sweeping are carried out using a dry sand-cement mixture.

• After completing the laying of paving slabs, it is recommended to thoroughly compact them by walking over them with a vibrating plate, which will level the entire surface to one level and make the paved area more durable.

• If a path that has turns and bends is lined with paving slabs, then there may be wider gaps between the tiles in the turning areas, but they should not exceed 7–8 mm. If such a gap is not enough, then cut out fragments of the desired configuration or purchase a special tile that is designed for rotation and made taking into account the required angle.

The process of laying paving slabs is quite labor-intensive, but the result will not only please the eye, but will also add comfort while walking around garden plot In any weather. Having made efforts and listened to the recommendations, a caring owner will be quite able to pave the paths and areas of the site on his own, but this will require patience and, of course, desire.

And finally, a video that we hope will also be useful when initially mastering the technology of laying paving slabs:

Video: a short visual lesson on laying paving slabs

The arrangement of a personal plot involves paving paths using special paving slabs. This material is reliable and looks attractive. The cost of laying paving slabs is high, so many are considering the possibility of carrying out the procedure on our own. Such a task is not easy, and can only be done if the technology is followed and the required tools are available. Following the step-by-step instructions eliminates the possibility of making a mistake.

Benefits of paving stones

The path can be created using various materials. The following types of paving slabs are distinguished:

1. Granite.
2. Vibrocast.

The difference in the material may lie in the color or decor used. The advantages include the following:

1. High strength material ensures long lasting service life even when exposed to high loads.
2. Environmentally friendly, because only components of natural origin are used in production.
3. High load-bearing capacity. Some versions of paving stones can be used to create.
4. Impact resistance. Frosts can cause changes in the basic properties of the material, reducing their strength.
5. Beautiful appearance. In this case, it is possible to use various schemes laying paving stones, thereby achieving different patterns.
6. Easy to install. The work of laying paving slabs can be done independently; for this you only need to have tools and materials, and also follow the recommendations.
7. It is possible to reuse the material. A situation often occurs when, after long period the owner of the site wants to make changes. Previously created paths can be dismantled, after which the paving stones are reused.

The cost of the material is quite high, so the created site must be of optimal size. It is inconvenient to walk on the created surface in heels; in addition, difficulties arise when processing the material. A common problem is the erosion of the foundation, which causes subsidence of individual areas.

Required materials and tools

You can lay paving stones yourself only if you have necessary materials and tools. In addition to the paving slabs themselves, you will need:

1. River or washed sand of medium and coarse fraction.
2. Crushed stone or gravel, the fraction of which is no more than 40 mm.
3. Cement grade not lower than PC400.
4. Border.
5. Geotextiles or other material with similar properties.

The amount of material required largely depends on the coverage area and the selected base preparation technology. To complete the work, you will need the following tools:

1. Concrete mixer designed for creating cement compositions and building mixtures.
2. Manual special rammer or vibrating plate.
3. Grinder or grinder with a diamond disc.
4. Shovel and bayonet shovel for working with soil.
5. Construction level, the length of which is at least 1 meter.
6. Plastering rule.
7. Metal or rubber hammer.
8. Mason's trowel.
9. Stakes and thread.
10. Soft brush.
11. Buckets.

If the technology used involves the creation of a concrete base, then a soft knitting wire will be required. It is used to create reinforcement that will increase the strength of the track.

Work order

Laying paving stones should be done in several stages. The main ones can be called:

1. Layout of the area, as well as markings. This requires measuring instruments, stakes and strong rope.
2. Soil development work is in progress.
3. The base is prepared by pouring a drainage layer.
4. A foundation is created that can withstand the pressure applied.
5. Stone laying in progress.
6. The final stage.

It is recommended to purchase materials only after a diagram and precise layout of the paths have been developed. The most important parameters include the area and length of the sides, as well as the type of installation technology chosen.

Drawing up a diagram and marking the path

It is possible to create a path correctly only when performing work according to a pre-created plan. Recommendations:

1. A site plan is drawn on paper indicating all buildings.
2. The layout of future tracks is being drawn onto the layout. The distance from the tree trunk to the path must be at least 1.5 m. Otherwise, growing roots may cause damage to the base.
3. The slope of the surface should be directed away from the structure. This eliminates the possibility of precipitation flowing to the base of buildings.
4. The width of the path can be chosen arbitrarily, but it is chosen as a multiple of the size of the paving stones. This reduces the amount of work required.

The plot is divided using stakes and a cord. When marking, it is taken into account that the curb stone has a width of 8-10 cm. The height of the cord must correspond to the level of the coating, the recommended figure is 5-8 cm. The exact dimensions can be maintained by using a building level.

Soil development work

The initial stage involves removing the top layer of soil. Features of the work being carried out to prepare the site include the following:

1. The depth of the created earthen tray depends on the chosen type of base, which can be represented by a sand, cement or concrete pad.
2. In all cases, the bottom layer is represented by drainage made of crushed stone and gravel. The recommended thickness is 15 cm.
3. The next layer is leveling, its recommended thickness is 3-5 cm.
4. The top load-bearing layer will take the main load. Its recommended thickness is 10-15 cm.

The thickness of the paving stones used is 5-7 cm. The above information indicates that the trench created should be approximately 35 cm deep.

Construction of a drainage support layer

A properly created substrate is the key to long-term service of the path and platform. Recommendations for carrying out the work are as follows:

1. After excavating the required amount of soil, the base is well compacted, after which a special cloth is spread. It can pass moisture only in one direction, which eliminates the possibility of weeds germinating and violating the integrity of the base.
2. Crushed stone and gravel are poured onto the spread sheet. The thickness of this layer is selected depending on the height of the curb stone. This layer acts as a load-bearing base, so it should be compacted thoroughly.

In most cases, the compaction method is used, which involves influencing the crushed stone with a special device. Such a substrate removes moisture from the base.

Installation of curb stones

Schematic illustration of laying a border; diagram of laying a border

- quite a difficult task, because the product is heavy. The instructions for carrying out such work are as follows:

1. The stakes with the cord stretched are removed and moved inside the tray. In this case, the cord will become a guide for installing the stone.
2. If you need to lift a stone, sand is poured under it. You can plant it down by hitting it with a wooden hammer.
3. The heavy stone is fixed using a concrete mixture, which is poured from the inside and outside. At the time of hardening, crushed stone should be added.
4. River sand is poured on top, the layer of which should be 3-5 cm. It is spilled with water, after which the material fills all the cracks.

The curb stone acts as an element that will take the main load from the paving stones.

Selecting the type of base for installation and its arrangement

To create a base, the most various materials. The basis for laying paving stones is created from:

1. Coarse sand without impurities.
2. Dry cement-sand mixture.
3. Cement mortar and compacted gravel.
4. Reinforced concrete.

A sandy base is suitable when there will not be a high load on the path. If a car is to be installed on the site, a base of crushed stone is created. Reinforced concrete base can bear high loads and it can last for a long period.

Cement-sand base

Scheme of laying a cement-sand base sandy base of paving stones

The cement-sand base has become widespread. It is characterized by the following features:

1. The mixture is created from PC400 cement in a ratio of 1:4.
2. To obtain a homogeneous mixture, use a concrete mixer.
3. The thickness of the created layer should be 10-15 cm. The indicator can be adjusted by adding crushed stone.

Laying paving stones involves making gentle blows with a rubber hammer, due to which they are adjusted to each other.

Gravel base

Gravel can be used to create a substrate with high bearing capacity. Recommendations for creating such a pillow are as follows:

1. A layer of gravel is poured on top of the crushed stone, which must be thoroughly compacted.
2. Laying of piece material should be carried out on cement-sand mortar. Increase performance characteristics possible by adding various plasticizers.

Gravel should be spread evenly over the surface. Compaction requires special equipment.

Reinforced concrete base

Reinforced base reinforcement

A reinforced concrete base has higher load-bearing capacities. This type of base does not respond to impact environment. A foundation is created only when a high load is applied to the surface. Recommendations for creating a reinforced concrete base are as follows:

1. Steel reinforcement is laid inside the formed ditch. The individual rods are tied together with binding wire to increase rigidity.
2. Bricks are used to lay out the reinforcing mesh. It should rise 4-5 cm above the crushed stone layer.
3. Concrete mixture is obtained by mixing cement, sand and crushed stone. Filling the solution should be carried out in one stage, because otherwise various defects may form.

In this case, the laying of piece material is carried out after 92 hours have passed, which are required for the concrete composition to dry. To fix the paving stones, special glue is required.

Sealing seams

After completing the tile laying work, you should carry out. This technological operation is required to compact the tiled structure. The instructions look like this:

1. The composition that will be used to seal the joints is the mixture on which the tiles are laid.
2. The mixture is scattered over the surface and then distributed with a brush. Excess is removed.

The procedure is repeated after some time. If the seams are not sealed, the path will not last for a long period.

Popular layout methods

There are several in various ways tile placement. The following are considered the most popular:

1. The classic scheme involves a parallel arrangement of paving stones.
2. The braid is represented by a parallel and perpendicular arrangement of the tiles.
3. The herringbone pattern provides for the placement of the tiles at an angle of 90° relative to each other.

The type of scheme used determines how complex the work is. By combining tiles of different shades you can achieve an attractive result.

Conclusion

The above information determines that you can lay paving stones yourself. This requires a relatively small number of tools; most attention is paid to the selection of material. If you do not have the required experience, you should start by creating remote paths that will be rarely used.

For craftsmen who lay paving slabs with their own hands step-by-step instruction will help save the budget for arranging pedestrian paths and parking lots near the cottage. The technology is the same for tiles made of concrete and polymer materials. Work should be carried out in summer in the absence of precipitation.

This coating allows you to completely avoid concreting and other “wet” finishing processes, but only on soils with normal bearing capacity. If the site is located on a fresh embankment, undermining and problem soils (for example, silty sand or pure clay), or has a complex topography, it is necessary to concrete the base to ensure a rigid underlying layer and uniform distribution of loads on the soil.

On sand, gravelly, rocky soil, sandy loam and loam, it is enough to remove the topsoil and replace it with non-metallic material:

• paths - sand;
• parking – crushed stone 5/40.

Crushed stone base of the parking lot.

To prevent mutual mixing of soil with inert materials, you should line the bottom of the pit with geotextiles and place this non-woven material on side walls. It is necessary to compact layers with a vibrating plate with a maximum thickness of 10–15 cm, as in the photo below.

Geotextile layer.

A vibrating plate with an electric or gasoline drive will be needed in further stages in any case. Therefore, they either rent it or make it themselves. You will also need the following tool:

• rule - special, made of boards, ordinary plaster 1.5 - 2 m;
• rubber mallet - for laying paving slabs (TP) and installing curbs;
• level – laser is preferable, but a bubble level will also work; on difficult terrain – hydraulic;
• a hard brush – needed for filling the seams at the last stage;
• Angle grinder (“grinder”) – used for cutting cladding elements;
• cord – marking the route, slopes;
• trowel and shovel – adding and leveling sand.

Tool for paving TP.

Important! The crushed stone is laid in its natural state, the sand is abundantly moistened, there is no need to spill it from a hose/bucket so as not to create with my own hands perched water in this technogenic layer.

On complex terrain, terracing is first done with retaining walls made of gabions or monolithic reinforced concrete. Otherwise, lateral soil movements will disrupt the geometry of the paths after just a couple of years of operation.

Even on flat areas, a slope of paving slabs is necessary, since the material is waterproof, and the gaps between the paving elements are not enough to quickly drain storm and flood runoff. It is advisable to install storm drainage trays between the curbs and tiles, and integrate rainwater inlets into the roofing under the vertical drains of roof gutters.

Paving technology

It is important for the home craftsman to understand that the quality and service life of garden paths depend entirely on soil conditions:

• clay soils swell unevenly, disrupting the geometry of sidewalks and parking lots;
• problematic soils settle over time;
• on slopes and without a curb edge, the tiles spread out.

To fix the base, the tiles will have to be completely dismantled.

When purchasing non-metallic materials, it is worth considering:

• in parking lots, a crushed stone fraction of 20/40 is preferable, depending on the intensity of traffic and operational loads, with a layer thickness of 30 cm;
• for paths, crushed stone 5/20 in a layer of 10 - 15 cm is sufficient;
• it is better to choose river sand or washed quarry sand minimum percentage clay;
• when compacting with a vibrating plate, the compaction coefficients are 1.7 for sand, 1.3 for crushed stone, so when purchasing, the volume of the pit must be multiplied by these numbers, otherwise there will not be enough material.

Paving slabs must provide required quality the exterior of the paths and the durability of the coating. Therefore, cladding is chosen according to the following characteristics:

Hyperpressed paving slabs.

Important! Vibration-cast products are cheaper because they are easier to manufacture, have an original configuration, and reduce the finishing budget. Hyper-pressed tiles are difficult to split or damage; this option is optimal for parking lots that are serviced by snowplows in winter.

Vibrocast TP.

Marking and planning

Unlike load-bearing structures The marking of personal space is most often combined:

• Curvilinear and radius shapes are used to increase artistic value;
• straight routes are marked with cords using cast-offs;
• the roundings are outlined directly on the ground using patterns or large-sized compasses (a rod tied with a cord to the central peg).

When marking, the following factors should be taken into account:

Chernozem contains organic matter, which rots under the tiles and shrinks. Therefore, the loose topsoil needs to be removed and used on the beds, in landscape design or removed from the site. The resulting layout is called by professionals a “trough”, in which further TP paving operations are carried out.

Important! The roots of mature bushes and trees are dangerous for paving slabs, so they are either uprooted or pedestrian traffic routes are laid at a distance of 3 m from them.

Drainage and sub-base

The TP should be laid on a rigid base that has drainage properties, since part of the storm water is drained through the cracks between the tiles. However, natural drainage is not enough to cope with the entire volume of water in heavy rain and drain waste roof drain when creating a path near a house or lining a blind area with this material. Therefore, several conditions must be met:

If a topsoil layer of more than 40 cm is removed and a 6–8 cm thick TP is selected for lining, the thickness of the underlying layer increases sharply so that the paths rise slightly above the adjacent soil. To save budget in this case, you can use cheaper materials in the lower level of the underlying layer than crushed stone, river sand - sandy loam or loam. They also need to be compacted with a vibrating plate to a similar surface condition.

The curbs (border stones) are much higher than the tiles (20 cm), so along the paving contour it is necessary to make a trench of the same width, 25 - 30 cm deep, in order to place the curb on the mortar layer.

Trench for curb

Important! Where the storm drains pass, another trench will be required, since the height of these elements varies from 13 to 41 cm depending on the design and material.

Installation of curb stones

Without curbs, sidewalks will lose their shape, as the tiles on the sides will “creep.” The curb stone must be laid along a cord, taking into account the longitudinal and perpendicular slopes of the decorated areas on a cement-sand mortar. The ratio of ingredients is 1/4 (cement/sand, respectively. The technology looks like:

• the mortar is placed into the trench with a trowel;
• the curb is installed on it and pressed down with a mallet along the cord;
• outside and inside in 2 - 3 places the solution is placed in a slide on side surfaces border just below the sand layer on which the tiles will be mounted, as in the photo below.

Paving is possible within a day or two, after the cement stone has gained strength.

Advice! Regardless of the size of the storm drains, it is better to install them along the curbs along with them at the same stage. These elements are also installed on a solution that requires time to harden.

Tile paving

There are methods for laying TP on cement-sand mortar (for operation in harsh conditions), dry mixture (1/5 cement, sand, respectively) and clean river sand. Practice has proven that when adding cement to a dry mixture, the developer additional benefits does not receive, but the maintainability of the coating sharply decreases and the finishing budget increases. Therefore, in 80% of cases, paving slabs are installed on dry sand using the following technology:

Advice! Installing curbstones at the ends of paths is not always possible. To prevent the spreading of paving elements in such an area, the last two rows are mounted on a cement-sand mortar.

Methods for connecting TP to the ground and screeds.

The nuances of laying paving slabs

Problems with paving usually arise when designing curved areas. The simplest option on radius paths is to lay rectangular elements, as in the bottom photo:

• the tile is oriented with the long side in the direction of travel;
• work starts from a smaller radius;
• each element is shifted relative to its neighbor;
• transverse and vertical seams are arranged in a wedge.

Rectangular TP on turns.

If the developer has chosen a collection of tiles with complex configuration(for example, “clover”), the paving technique changes radically:

• the seams are shifted at 45 - 60 degrees along the length of the tortuous section;
• the surface is filled with solid elements;
• pieces are laid near the curbs.

Less commonly used is the “Beam” technology, when a rectangular-format TP is oriented perpendicular to the curbs.

At complex radius intersections and large areas, the direction of the seams can be changed to increase the artistic value of the composition.

Decorating a complex radius intersection.

Thus, it is easiest and cheapest to pave paths, recreation areas and parking lots on the site on sand with cast or vibropressed paving slabs along straight routes. On radius sections, the above recommendations should be taken into account. For problematic soils, a rigid concrete base layer should be made.

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It is impossible to imagine the city's infrastructure without road surfaces. Until recently, asphalt was considered the most common surface. But it cracks from temperature changes, from exposure sun rays melts. With the advent of new technologies, paving squares, pavements, and roads with paving slabs has become popular.

Not a single dacha personal plot It cannot do without paving stone paths; the parking lot is paved with it. Post sidewalk path It’s not so difficult at the dacha yourself. The main thing is to know the laying rules and the technology of its installation. Today we will tell you how to lay paving slabs.

Before describing the technology for installing sidewalks, let's dwell on the advantages of paving stones.

Advantages and disadvantages of finishing material

Paving slabs have a number of advantages:

Disadvantages of the sidewalk

• During frosts it becomes covered with a layer of ice.
• If laid incorrectly, it may sag.

Types of paving stones

By manufacturing method

Depending on the methods of making paving stones the following varieties are found:

• Vibrocast
• Vibropressed
• Granite

Let's look at the characteristics of each separately.

Clay more expensive, resembles tiles.

It is durable due to the addition of granite chips or other binding material.

Before we begin the process of laying paving stones, we will check its quality to see if there are any chips or cracks. Lay it on the mixture tightly to each other.

We tap on the paving stones with a rubber mallet, achieving it better connection. You need to lay the tiles yourself.

To saw off paving slabs, use an angle grinder, or an angle grinder with a power of at least 2 kW.

Having laid out the sidewalk, we pour cement-sand mortar on top.

Let's fill it with water.

Now we'll install the curb. Digging grooves for the curb. They should be slightly wider than the curb itself. The curb is placed in order to hold the paving stones on the soft ground and prevent it from moving off it. In addition, the curb stone aligns the edge of the laid tiles. It can be laid both before laying paving stones and after.

The border should be level with the tiles, maybe a little higher. First, put a 5cm sand cushion, wet the sand, and compact it. Pour concrete mortar into the bottom of the groove and place the curb stone very quickly before the mortar hardens. Fill the gaps between the laid tiles and the curb with mortar.

How to lay paving slabs on a concrete base

More solid foundation Concrete is used for paving stones. A huge amount of heavy equipment can pass through it. This will not cause it to sag or crack.

The cement-sand cushion is a movable base, and concrete is a solid base. Therefore, it is much better to level the paving stones over the concrete base. It does not need to be compacted like parts of pillows.

The concrete screed hardens to form a level base. But concrete blocks the way for water, preventing it from seeping into the ground.

The sand and gravel cushion allows water to pass down through the pores. The soil absorbs it.

The concrete screed does not allow rainwater to pass through. It accumulates in the seams between the tiles. When frost hits, the water under the paving stones and between the seams turns to ice. The ice block presses with all its force on the coating, lifting it. The pavement may develop cracks along the edges. Therefore, before you pour concrete screed, do drainage. You can create rulers, point moisture inlets, or make a slope.

To properly lay paving slabs on a concrete base, you need to pour a screed.

We mark the area for concrete. We place pegs and pull the threads at an angle of 5 degrees. We remove the turf to a depth of 25cm. In the resulting groove, cleared of seeds and leaves of plants, we fill the crushed stone with a layer of 10-15 cm, making a slope. Let's ram it.

Through every square meter we make it 15-20cm high drainage holes for water drainage. After the concrete hardens, we fill them with crushed stone (crushed stone allows water to pass through).

We lay the formwork from boards 40 mm thick. To strengthen it, we put pegs. To fill the base, use a concrete mixture: cement (1 part), sand (3 parts), crushed stone (1 part). A concrete mixture 3-5 cm thick is poured onto a crushed stone cushion.

When the concrete hardens, a reinforcing mesh is laid, and concrete 5-10 cm high is again poured on top. After 2-3 days you can lay paving stones.

We'll tell you how to properly lay paving slabs on a concrete base with your own hands.

Digging a groove for the curb. We take into account the slope of the paving. Knead cement-sand mixture 1:3. Place a layer of 3-5 cm. We place a curb stone on it, driving it into the solution using a mallet. When the mixture dries, fill the cracks with sand and soak with water.

Before laying the paving stones, we fill it with a cement-sand mixture 1:6, level it using the rule, and tamp it with a vibrating plate. Pour a 10 cm layer of the mixture, place beacons, and level it using the rule. We lay the tiles, leaving a gap of 5 cm between them for expansion. Sprinkle the cracks with sand and fine gravel and pour water.

How to lay paving slabs on a blind area

From the house we measure the distance to the curb. We mark the paths using pegs and cord. We remove the soil to a depth equal to the height of the curb stone, adding 2-4 cm. Pour concrete mortar for the curb. Let's put it on. Let's ram it.

We pour crushed stone on a slope. We lay marking boards 3-6 meters thick, 20-40mm thick. Reinforced mesh on top. If the site is small, you can do without reinforcement and boards. Fill it up concrete mixture. When it hardens, we make a dry cement-sand mixture 1:6 and fill the base. We lay tiles on it. We pour water from a watering can. Pour the same mixture on top and sweep it into the cracks. Water it with water. Where water drains through the pipe, a concrete drain can be laid.

Laying polymer paving slabs.

Plastic tiles are the same as polymer tiles. The rules for laying polymer tiles are the same as for laying conventional paving slabs.

The features of its installation are:

How much does it cost to lay paving slabs and their price on the market

Laying paving slabs costs from 450 rubles per square meter. For the preparation of a concrete base - 750 rubles, a sand and gravel cushion - 570 rubles per square meter.

Today we told you and showed you a video on how to lay paving slabs. We will be glad to see a photo of your laid path or area at the dacha .

If previously all paths were filled with concrete or asphalt was rolled over them, now paving slabs are becoming increasingly popular. It is very affordable; you can find any options among different textures and colors. Most often, we trust professionals. Is not difficult process and with step-by-step instructions for laying paving slabs, even beginners can handle the job.

In this article we will look at three installation methods (on concrete, a sand bed and a mixture of concrete and sand), and also give some tips on how to choose and which paving slabs to buy for your site.

The choice of tiles is huge, there are cheaper and more expensive options. The first ones will serve you for many years, but the second one is not so interesting in terms of variety, and it lasts much less years.

For production using natural hard or fake diamond, ceramic materials or soft rocks (flagstone, sandstone), colored concrete or polymers of sand solutions.

Good tiles are made using the vibration pressing method. It becomes more durable and withstands frosts well, but loses its color and becomes not very bright.

Stamped tiles are of low quality, most often made at home.

For home use take tiles at least 4 cm thick. If there is supposed to be parking on the site, then we take from 6 cm. If you suddenly decide to tile the road near your house, then consider tiles from 8 cm.

Preparatory work

Cooking necessary materials, to start laying paving slabs with your own hands.

We will need :

We notice our future paths on the site plan. Be sure to take into account the location in relation to buildings, flower beds and other structures, as well as the direction, drains and possible slopes. If we are covering a space for a car, we provide a width so that a person can easily walk nearby.

Using a tape measure, we mark the pegs and cord according to the plan. Don't forget to leave 10 cm on each side for borders.

We begin work on the ground

If you plan to start soil for flower beds and beds, then simply level the surface for the paths.

But if you are satisfied with the existing soil, then be sure to remove 30-35 cm of soil along all the markings. Fill the bottom with sand and compact it well. In order to efficiently drain water, as well as protect against the growth of weeds, we lay geotextiles on top. Lay out taking into account that the next layer overlaps the previous one by 15-20 cm. Fold in the edges by about 20 cm.

Depending on the type of soil, we choose one or another installation method. For example, for moving soil, it is best to use a concrete base, while denser layers allow for a sand-cement option.

Drainage

On top of the geotextile, we pour crushed stone to a level of 15-18 cm. Melt and surface water will flow here, and water will not accumulate on the path, which will protect it from freezing in the cold season.

We compact everything well and sprinkle it with sand. We cover it with another layer of textile, which will allow water to pass through, but will not allow it to seep back.

If you use a concrete base, then we provide slopes for efficient drainage of water (1 cm per meter). Provide gaps between the tiles and the curb.

Various materials are suitable for borders, from slate to stones. Traditionally, most people choose a ready-made concrete curb.

However, now on the market you can find plastic options. They are cheaper, easy to install, and will last a long period of time.

We carry out installation immediately after laying the drainage layer.

Additional tile processing and laying options

Under such a solution it looks more attractive, and salt deposits and mold fungi do not appear.

Set aside the tiles with defects, dip the rest in hybrophobic liquid, dry and repeat the procedure.

Remember that larger tiles weigh more, so this is immediately reflected on the surface; the surface must always be adjusted to the overall level.

It also causes inconvenience when moving.

Options for laying paving slabs

As we already mentioned, there are three bases for tiles.

Think about communications in advance, otherwise you will have to dismantle everything and lay it out from scratch. You can lay gaskets; to do this, install a pipe with a diameter of 5 cm into the structure.

So, let's look at all three options in more detail.

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base

We start with reinforcement with a 10x10 cm metal mesh. You can also use the remains of pipes, wire, fittings and other unnecessary materials.

Just don’t forget to fasten them together with wire. The mesh must be raised by 3-5 cm; for this you can build metal stands or place stones.

Prepare the solution: mix cement 400 with sand and crushed stone in proportions 1:3:5.

Filling must be done at one time; if a large amount of work is planned, then the easiest way is to order a ready-made solution on site. The cost will not increase much, and the process itself will be faster.

After 3-5 days you can begin laying tiles.

The process itself is very similar to working with tiles.

Remember that installation should not be carried out during or after rain.

Laying tiles on a sand-cement base

Features of laying paving slabs on sand

We make a three-layer base.

The main subtleties of laying paving slabs

As we mentioned, each base has its own technology for laying paving slabs. We’ll talk about the features now.

Using concrete base, each tile is laid on the mortar, the cement should fill as much as possible all the seams, the thickness of which is no more than 0.3 cm.

In this case, the installer lays out the mortar in front of him, stepping on the already reinforced tiles. Be sure to check with a level that the installation is correct, and at the end of the work we rub down the seams.

With a cement-sand or sand base, the same installation work is performed. The installer, in this case, places the material in front of him, and he moves backwards, without stepping on the finished canvas. You can add or, conversely, remove unnecessary sand. The tiles are tapped well against each other with a rubberized hammer.

Fill the path well with water, and repeat after a couple of days.

A few tips to help you work efficiently and efficiently:

Proper grouting

After laying the slabs, be sure to grout the joints in several stages:

Nowadays you can also buy a ready-made mixture in stores and not make it yourself.

Don't forget to sweep and wash the paths, this will help the tiles remain just as beautiful, and they will last much longer.

In winter, clear snow with a wooden shovel, without using ice axes. Do not sprinkle with products that contain salt.