Is it necessary to ventilate the attic? Cold attic: attic ventilation device

No one is surprised by the need for mandatory insulation attic space to create a comfortable microclimate in the home. Many people don’t even think about installing a proper ventilation system in this room. But high-quality attic ventilation helps maintain the microclimate there, prevents the occurrence of fungi, rot and increases service life roofing structure. Properly calculated and thought out is no less important than competent vapor and heat insulation.

Attic ventilation ensures mixing and equalizing the temperatures of the roof structure and the external environment. It prevents the formation of ice during the melting of the snow cover, avalanches and the appearance of large icicles. Setting up a high-quality air exchange system is actually extremely important.

Attic space: ventilation

There are different buildings different types attics: They have different purposes, and their arrangement is accordingly different. Based on their main characteristics, attics are divided into two main types - warm and cold. The last type is more traditional. In such a case, the system is not protected in any way, since only the ceiling is insulated. The other type has only one important goal - to properly protect engineering assets.

Cold attic: ventilation device

In a cold attic room there should be an adjustable one. To arrange it, they leave it uncovered and. A good alternative would be special lining with gaps, allowing air to circulate freely. If, as a roofing or are used, and there are no vapor and wind barrier films, in which case you don’t have to worry about a special ventilation device in the attic.

Ventilation device for under-roof space on the roof

Between the individual waves of the roof, air penetrates without interference into the space under the roof and goes out.

It is also capable of ventilating on its own, but it can cause condensation, so the use of an insulating film in this case is mandatory.

U ventilation ducts located in the gables. Loose lining of overhangs can be quite in an effective way solving the problem.

Narrow slots, evenly distributed, will facilitate high-quality ventilation of the entire attic space.

But if the lining fits too tightly, or if the gables are made of stone, holes will have to be made in the walls. It would be rational to place them on opposite sides, thereby eliminating pockets of stagnation. The total S (area) of ventilation channels should be 0.2% of the area of ​​the entire floor.

There is another option that allows you to save money. It involves the installation of standard grilles, one of which is adjustable, the other with its holes directed downwards. Mosquito net will protect them from insects.

If we are dealing with, then the ventilation device will be made differently. An inlet hole is made at the bottom, in the hem, and the exit is located at the top, at the ridge. In the case where the overhang lining is made of wood, the beams do not have to be placed tightly; there may be a gap of several millimeters between them. If the sewing was carried out using plastic, then all components must have holes. Such panels are called soffits.

It is possible that the filing is assembled quite tightly. What to do in this case? For this purpose, special grilles equipped with mesh are produced. They have a diameter of five centimeters: they are placed every 0.8 meters along the entire length of the wind overhang. To make holes, use a drill with a suitable (round) drill bit. The top output is made from above.

In general, the types of ventilation largely depend on the type of roof. For example, a classic ridge is suitable for Euro slate. Elastic flexible roofing A ventilated ridge or turtle has been used successfully. A special valve is also used for ceramic tiles.

Excellent ventilation with a standard ridge ridge. It must be said that the ridge is not just an economically beneficial replacement for the valve. This is also a great way to get a ventilation system in the shortest possible time.

Sometimes special hearing aids, with grilles or glazed ones, are used, but their installation is a rather difficult task, the implementation of which requires theoretical knowledge and practical skills.

Warm attic: ventilation

In modern heating systems natural circulation is virtually not used. In other words, if you plan to turn the attic into a roof, the roof must be completely ventilated. For a roof made of flexible tiles or sheet material you will have to arrange a special ventilated area: a counter batten is sewn onto the rafters.

For roofs with metal coating It is advisable to use a windproof film. Slate roofing can do without a counter rail, since the air must flow freely from bottom to top. An entrance is arranged in the filing, exit to the outside occurs through the ridge.

The attic should be ventilated in the same way as other rooms. The air enters through the windows (possibly the installation of VTK valves), and leaves the house through the ventilation holes. If they are absent in the walls, then fungi (aerators) are made at the place of the hood, on the roof.

Attic ventilation in a house: truth and fiction

Questions regarding high-quality attic ventilation have become overgrown with rumors and speculation. Which facts about proper ventilation are true and which are not?

• Is it true that warm air escapes from the house through ventilation ducts in winter? There is an opinion that the operation of ventilation in the cold season only interferes with the heating of the home. In fact, it is unlikely that the holes are the cause. In the case when a home heats up for a long time and then cools down quickly, it is not the ventilation that is to blame, but the insulation. It must be said that not very high-quality insulation can allow moist air to pass into the attic. The consequence of this phenomenon is often the formation of drops of condensation, which in turn cause damage and rotting of the wood.
• Is it true that ventilation is only required during hot weather? There is a belief that ventilation is necessary only in the summer, when the temperature rises strongly. In reality this is not the case. If you do not carry out ventilation measures in winter, this is fraught with the formation of icicles, the development of mushrooms, etc.
• Is it true that the size of the ventilation holes does not matter? This is also a misconception. You should not arrange channels “by eye”, since it is likely that the efficiency of such a system will tend to zero. Vents should have a ratio to ceilings as one to five hundred.

Owners are often afraid to install cold attic ventilation in their private homes, guided by the following assumptions.

• Heat escapes from the house through attic ventilation grilles. There is an opinion that the building will cool down faster. But most often the problem lies in poor thermal insulation of walls or ceilings. By the way, moist warm air penetrates into the attic through a poorly insulated ceiling. We will tell you what its danger is in the next chapter;
• Ventilation of a cold attic with a hip or hip roof is only necessary in summer. According to many, ventilation grilles and windows in the attic are only needed to ventilate the stuffiness. In fact, in winter, the ceiling of an unheated and unventilated attic will turn into a cave overgrown with ice stalactites;
• It doesn't matter what size the vents are. Square ventilation windows and ventilation in the attic must be carefully calculated. How to do it right - read on.

Attic ventilation in a private home is an essential element of thermoregulation. Properly organized, it allows you to save money on heating or cooling the living space and keep the building itself intact. Attic ventilation above the attic is especially important.

The attic in a private house needs ventilation both in winter and in summer.

So, in the hot season, a hot roof heats the air in the attic to 150 degrees. Most of this heat is transferred to the ceiling of the upper floor, forcing the air conditioner to work harder to eliminate the excess heat. If there is no air conditioning, the owners languish in the heat and stuffiness.

In winter, air exchange is necessary to remove excess moisture. According to technical requirements, the temperature difference between the street and the attic should be 4 degrees or less. Temperature changes between the residential floor and the street contribute to the accumulation of condensation on the roof rafters. The moisture gradually freezes, creating entire cascades of icicles. When it thaws, they melt and moisture drips onto the attic floor. Destroyed support structures roof and ceiling. Mold develops on wooden rafters.

By the way, high-quality ventilation of a cold attic prevents accumulation of snow and ice on the roof of the house.

What is attic ventilation?

Free air exchange between the under-roof space and the street is carried out through gaps and holes. Holes in the ridges and under the roof overhang work most effectively. Positioned in this way, they use the pressure of wind and heat emanating from the ceiling of the house.

If the ventilation of a cold attic in a private house is equipped correctly, in one hour the air goes around the entire roof twice from the inside. The movement of flows is directed from below from the vents under the eaves upwards to the ridge plates with special holes. If the roof is insulated, a gap of up to 5 cm wide is left between the roofing material and the insulation for the free passage of air.

The best exhaust is ensured by a combination of vents in the ridge and pitched elements mounted near the ridge. For tiled roofs, tiles are made with vents for air exchange.

And another way to ventilate attics in private homes is to install deflectors (turbines for ventilation) that provide mechanical draft. The method is good for ventilating an insulated attic above the attic.

The slight slope of the roof must also be taken into account when planning the ventilation of a cold attic. Vents in the ridge can be covered with snow, so they are replaced with pipes, the height of which should be higher than the snow cover.

The most ancient method of ventilation is a ventilation window in the attic. To ensure excellent air exchange in a cold attic, a combination of vents under the eaves, in the ridge and dormer windows is quite sufficient.

Ventilation of the cold attic of houses with a hip roof is different in that the house does not have gables. Therefore, there is nowhere to install ventilation windows in the attic. Thus, cold attics under hip roofs are ventilated using ridge and eaves vents.

It is more difficult to arrange the ventilation of the attic above the attic. Here the vents are provided by cracks in roofing pie And by mechanical means traction. The ventilation outlet to the attic is hidden in the columns.

Attic ventilation through dormer windows

For attic ventilation, only dormer windows can be used without installing a system of vents and vents. This option is not very effective, since air can stagnate under and above the windows.

To improve air exchange and reduce the volume of stagnant places, the size of the dormer windows is made 60 cm x 80 cm. They are mounted in opposite gables. First they are made wooden frames, attached by racks to the rafters. The roofing material is attached to the frame. Windows decorated with the same materials as the roof look better. Lining is well suited for finishing openings around windows. The window frame is installed in the opening last. All gaps between the window frame and the roof should be carefully closed.

Rules for placing ventilation windows:

• windows are placed at equal distances from the ridge, cornice and sides;
• there should be a distance of more than one meter between windows;
• the window design should fit harmoniously into general view buildings;
• can be mounted in the window ventilation grille for the attic, painting it to match the roof.

Vents in the roof and roof

Vents are openings in the roof for ventilation of cold or warm attic. Vents can be ridge or cornice, depending on their location. Eaves are installed on both sides of the eaves and represent gaps between the roof and the wall about 2 cm wide. They are called slotted. If the vents are made in the form of holes, they are called point vents. The smaller the slope of the slopes, the larger the diameter or width of the vents, but not more than 2.5 centimeters.

Ridge vents are made in the form of slits up to 5 cm wide or in the form of weather vanes at intervals of up to 8 meters. Ridge vents are also installed in roofs with piece coverings, such as tiled roofs. Special tiles with holes are placed one row from the ridge.

Vents for the upper part of the roof are made in the form of aerators, gable grilles or retractable roof outlets. Ridge aerators and pitched exits can be purchased along with the roofing material.

Products- This is the only way to ventilate an attic without dormer windows.

Ventilation aerators

A roof aerator is a modern and convenient type of ventilation. It is a pipe covered with a cap on top. Aerators remove steam, moisture and stagnant air, providing ventilation for a cold attic in a private home. Aerators are installed on roof slopes, where air movement is ensured by differences in temperature and pressure, replacing ridge vents. Aerators can be continuous or point. Point aerators are equipped with fans and guarantee good air movement. Outwardly, they resemble fungi.

Continuous aerators are a plate along the ridge with holes. Being covered with a roof on top, they are practically invisible and provide intense air movement due to the large area of ​​the holes.

Various types of aerators are created specifically for roofing from:

• bitumen shingles;
• flat roof;
• metal ceramics;
• ceramics.

Aerators are installed only where eaves vents are provided. There are other conditions for their installation:

• Only roofs with a slope of 15 - 45 degrees are suitable;
• a distance of at least 30 cm is maintained from the chimney or wall;
• aerators look 25 cm above the slot at both ends of the ridge;
• point models are mounted no further than 50 cm from the ridge.

Calculation of attic ventilation

Those who decide to equip attic ventilation with their own hands need to carry out calculations before starting work. Only a specialist can guarantee the best result. And for the bravest ones, we have prepared a hint:

The ratio of the vent area to the attic area is 1:500.

For 500 sq. meters of attic area should be 1 sq. meter ventilation holes. As a last resort, you can be guided by a proportion of 1:300, per 200 square meters. meters of the attic should be at least 0.4 square meters. meters of air. The calculations take into account the area of ​​true ventilation, that is, even the width of the grilles, whose ribs disrupt the movement of air flows, is excluded.

Exceeding the area of ​​the vents is just as undesirable as not having enough. Openings that are too large can allow snow and rain to get in, because these are the most vulnerable areas of the roof, which must be remembered.

The area of ​​the hood (ridge and pitched grilles) should be 12–15% greater than the area of ​​the inlet (eaves vents).

DIY cold attic ventilation

Many owners think about how to ventilate the attic after just a few years of living in the house. The musty smell and dampness in winter make you take up your tools. We will tell you about constructing ventilation for any attic with your own hands.

At gable roof The easiest way is to equip attic ventilation with your own hands by making vents in the gables. Pediments, as a rule, are made of wood and this greatly facilitates the work. The wind overhangs on the sides of the roof are also covered with wood. All cracks must be made evenly, ensuring airflow throughout the entire attic area.

There are no cracks in the stone gables, so you will have to arm yourself with a tool and drill out two dormers. They are covered with bars and mosquito nets.

When installing attic ventilation with your own hands, the placement of the vents largely depends on the shape of the roof. Various options suggested in the diagram above.

There is no need to worry about how to ventilate the attic if slate, tiles or ondulin are used as roofing materials. The wave-like shape provides enough voids for air to pass through. And the sheets are laid on the sheathing with gaps through which air flows pass. Metal tiles, although they have a wave-like shape, collect condensation when the temperature changes, so they cover it from below with a vapor barrier film.

Proper ventilation in the attic is no less important than its installation. AND special attention attention should be paid to pipe insulation.

Insulation of ventilation pipes

Ventilation pipes must be insulated in the attic and above roof level. This procedure is carried out to avoid the accumulation of condensation, which will accumulate on the internal walls and flow down. Since the joints of the ventilation pipes are not made airtight, moisture will penetrate into load-bearing structures, will ruin the finish and lead to the gradual destruction of the building. And the ventilation ducts themselves suffer from contact with moisture if they are made of galvanized pipes.

In winter, the lumen of the ventilation duct becomes overgrown with frost and literally within a month standard pipe 15 cm in diameter will close completely.

The appearance of condensation in ventilation ducts is inevitable: people exhale water vapor, wash dishes, bathe and do laundry. This releases moisture into the air. The humidity of warm air in a residential building can reach 100%. When water comes into contact with the cool surface of ventilation shafts, it settles on it.

To prevent this process, the ventilation pipes in the attic are insulated. This is where the boundary between the warm air of the house and the cold air of the unheated attic passes.

The cheapest insulation option: mineral wool. It does not burn, but when wet it completely loses its qualities. Corrugation with mineral wool insulation is easier to install.

Polystyrene foam in the form of special removable “shells” is very easy to install and inexpensive. But it burns well, emitting toxic smoke, so it is not recommended for residential buildings.

Best materials for insulation of ventilation ducts: polyurethane foam, polyethylene foam, polypropylene foam.

And, towards the end, several important advice for those who are interested in how to properly ventilate an attic:

• All ventilation elements must be resistant to any weather conditions;
• Be very careful about the location of the ridge vents. They are installed as close as possible to the ridge;
• Continuous soffits work effectively as cornice vents. The best materials for them are non-rusting aluminum or plastic. The surface of the spotlights is covered with a fine mesh;
• When installing attic ventilation without dormer windows, special attention should be paid to the vents between the rafters. It is important that during operation they do not become clogged with debris and dust;
• Hire a professional to calculate attic ventilation above the attic;
• Install decorative ventilation windows in the attic that will add charm and special style to your home;
• Conclusion supply ventilation equip the attic according to all the rules. Mount air handling unit should be in the cleanest place, no closer than 8 meters from the exhaust pipe.

Description:

In the vast majority of cases, residential buildings are equipped with a natural ventilation system. It is known that the main disadvantage of these systems is the low amount of available pressure. Therefore, as a rule, if exhaust air is exhausted through ventilation shafts, to which exhaust air from apartments is supplied through prefabricated ducts, then a lot of problems arise with the ventilation of the upper floors: it is difficult to reconcile the existing available pressure, determined by the small height of the shaft (1 m above the roof), with quite large aerodynamic resistance of the prefabricated channels and shaft with an umbrella. As an element of the natural system exhaust ventilation the warm attic appeared in the 1970s.

Ventilation of residential buildings with a warm attic

Flow rates through exhaust grilles and supply valves at different outdoor and attic temperatures, doors closed

The residential building is served by natural ventilation systems with two-way connection of satellites to the trunk and unregulated exhaust grilles. All apartments, regardless of size, have the same ventilation systems installed, since in the building in question, even in three-room apartments, air exchange is determined not by the rate of inflow (3 m 3 / h per m 2 of living space), but by the rate of exhaust from the kitchen, bathroom and toilet (in total 110 m 3 / h). The height of the exhaust shaft above the floor of the warm attic is 6 m.

Calculations of the air condition of the building were performed for the following temperatures outside air: 5 °C (calculated for ventilation); –3.1 °C (average heating period in Moscow); –28 °С (calculated for heating) with a wind speed of 0 m/s; 3.8 m/s (average for the heating period); 4.9 m/s (calculated for selecting window density).

The air temperature inside the warm attic at the calculated winter period(at t n = –28 °C) was changed from 18 to 5 °C (issues of condensation of water vapor were not considered), in the middle of the heating period at an outside air temperature of –3.1 °C, the temperature in the attic was equal to 19 and 10 °C, and at a design temperature for ventilation of 5 °C, 20 and 12 °C, respectively.

The calculation results showed that at an attic temperature of 20 °C during the design period for ventilation (t = 5 °C and windless weather), the adopted ventilation system with ventilation units and supply valves on the upper floors does not provide a standard air exchange of 110 m 3 / h (due to the narrowed sections of the ventilation network trunk and due to the installation of supply valves instead open windows provided for in the ventilation calculations). In Fig. Figure 2 shows the change in air flow through ventilation grilles and supply valves along the height of the building in different weather conditions at different air temperatures in a warm attic. These results apply to two-room apartment two-way orientation.

From Fig. 2 shows that a moderate drop in air temperature in a warm attic (to the temperatures indicated above) has practically no effect on the air exchange of apartments on the lower floors and only slightly (by 10-15% at t n = –28 °C and by 20-25% at t n = 5 °C) reduces the air exchange of the upper floors. It is clear that with insignificant available pressure for the upper floors during the design period for ventilation in calm weather, reducing the available pressure also due to lowering the temperature in the warm attic is undesirable, but not fatal. When there is wind, the air exchange of apartments on the upper floors located on the windward facade and double-sided apartments increases; the decrease in the temperature of the warm attic has a much smaller effect even on the upper floors.

In a building without a warm attic, with exhaust shafts rising 3 m above the floor of the cold attic, air exchanges are slightly lower than in a building with a warm attic, as can be seen from Fig. 3.

Unauthorized opening of doors from the staircase to a warm attic at t n = –28 °C has little effect on the operation of the ventilation system, as follows from Fig. 4. Additional opening of the doors to the apartment on the top floor, to the apartment hall, to the stairs, to the street also does not lead to significant changes. When the design temperature for ventilation is tn = 5 °C and there is no wind, the effect of opening doors is also small. However, when there is wind and the door to the attic is opened, it is very likely that the ventilation on the upper five floors will overturn.

Figure 4. Air flow through exhaust grilles at different options opening doors to the attic at an outside temperature of 5 °C 1 – in the absence of wind, behind closed doors to the attic 2 – with a wind speed of 3.8 m/s, doors to the attic closed 3 – in the absence of wind and open door in the attic 4 – in the absence of wind, the door to the attic is open, in the apartment and in the hall 5 – in the absence of wind, the door to the attic is open, staircase and at the entrance to the building

These results do not negate the generally accepted desire for all types of natural ventilation systems to correctly design the ventilation system itself and have individual fans in individual ducts for the top floors. It is advisable to keep in mind that when installing supply valves, the resistance of the ventilation tract increases and the number of upper floors where fans are needed can increase to four.

Conclusions

1. The natural ventilation system in residential buildings with a warm attic can operate without tipping over even when the air temperature in the attic drops to 5 °C during the design winter period (at t n = –28 °C) and during the design period for ventilation at the outside air temperature 5 °C to 12 °C.

2. Opening the doors to the attic has little effect on the ventilation of apartments throughout the heating period in calm weather. In the presence of wind, ventilation overturning on the top five floors can be observed at outdoor temperatures above 0 °C.

Literature

1. SNiP 2.08.01-89*. Residential buildings. 1999.

2. MGSN 2.01-99. Energy saving in buildings. Standards for thermal protection and heat and water power supply.

3. Biryukov S.V., Dianov S.N. Expanding the capabilities of the “AIR” program for calculating the air condition of a building // Modern systems heat and gas supply and ventilation. Sat. tr. MGSU. M.: MGSU, 2003.

From the author: Hello, dear readers! After living in a private house for a couple of years, many owners decide to install ventilation in the attic, primarily due to the appearance unpleasant odor and dampness. In this article we will tell you how to make ventilation for a cold attic in a private house with your own hands.

Reasons for installation

The attic in a private house must be equipped with a ventilation system. This fact is important for the premises at any time of the year.

In summer, the heat from the hot roof moves into the room and sometimes heats it up to 150 degrees. The main share of heat is distributed at the top, and the air conditioner operates in enhanced mode. And in its absence, home owners are forced to suffer from stuffiness and heat.

In winter, ventilation helps remove accumulated moisture. According to technical safety requirements, the temperature in the attic and the street should differ by no more than 4 degrees, since sudden temperature changes create favorable conditions for the accumulation of condensate, which subsequently forms icicles. With the onset of a thaw, they melt, and moisture falls on the floor, which leads to deformation and destruction of the ceiling structure and roof, and appears on the rafters.

Despite the importance of ventilation, many owners are afraid to install it because they think that warm air escapes through the grilles in the attic and the room cools faster. In fact, the reason lies in poor-quality thermal insulation of the ceiling and walls; moreover, moisture penetrates into the attic through poorly insulated ceilings.

Important: Ventilation of a cold attic on a hip or hip roof is needed, most often, only in the summer.

Ventilation grilles in the attic of a private house play an important role in thermoregulation. If installed correctly, they will save on heating costs, provide the required degree of cooling and protect the room from negative influences. external influence. In addition to all the above advantages, attic ventilation prevents winter precipitation from accumulating on the roof of the building.

The principle of operation of the ventilation system

Unimpeded air circulation from the street under the roof space is possible due to openings, the most effective of which are located under the overhang and in the ridges. This arrangement allows the use of air-thermal pressure emanating from the ceiling area.

If the attic ventilation is installed according to all the rules, in an hour's time the air flow passes under the roof of the room twice - the movement is directed from the bottom up to the ridges with holes from the vents.

Advice: if there is an insulated roof, a gap of approximately 5 cm wide is left between the roof and the insulating layer for free air exchange.

To ensure high-quality hood, a combination of installed ridge elements and vents in the ridge itself is necessary. For tiled roofs, special tiles with air exchange vents are used.

There is another way to ventilate the attic - installing ventilation turbines (deflectors) for mechanical draft. This type of installation is recommended for ventilation of an insulated attic space above the attic.

Source: growinggarden.ru

Important: When installing ventilation, you need to pay attention to the slope of the roof. Ridge vents filled with snow can be replaced with pipes that exceed the height of the snow cover.

Ventilation window

The oldest known in the attic is the ventilation window. For good air exchange, under-eaves and ridge vents, as well as dormer windows, are sufficient. Hip roof assumed to have no pediments. In this case, there is no room for ventilation windows, and such attics are ventilated by eaves and ridge vents.

The situation is more complicated with attic ventilation under the attic. In this case, the role of ventilation is played by the cracks in the inter-roof space. A mandatory element of such a roof is mechanical devices traction. The ventilation outlet is located in the columns.

Dormer windows

Without installing a system of vents and vents for air exchange, dormer windows can be installed in the attic. However, this method is not effective enough, since air can stagnate in the space under and above the window.

To improve ventilation and reduce the level of stagnant air, it is recommended to make dormer windows measuring 60x80 cm, placing them in opposite gables. You can find out how to do the installation yourself by watching the video .

In theory, it looks like this: roofing material is laid on pre-made wooden frames, which are attached to the rafters with special racks. For finishing openings, ordinary lining is suitable. Then a window frame is mounted into the opening. In this case, the gaps between the roof and the frame itself are tightly closed.

Rules for installing ventilation windows:

• Ventilation vents, roof and roof vents are required;
• the distance between windows is no more than 1 m;
• equal distance of windows from the cornice, sides and ridge;
• window design should not violate the overall concept appearance buildings.

Ventilation ducts

Vents are openings to provide air exchange in a cold or warm attic. They are in the roof and are the only possible way ventilation of the attic without dormer windows.

There are two types of vents: cornice or ridge. Eaves are located on both sides of the eaves and, in fact, are a gap between the wall and the roof, the width of which is approximately 2 cm. They are called slotted. Vents made in the form of holes are called point vents. The width and diameter of the vents should be no more than 2.5 cm, depending on the slope of the slopes.

Ridge vents have a slotted shape up to 5 cm wide or a weather vane shape with intervals not exceeding 8 meters. This type of vents is also used in tiled coverings, with holes one row from the ridge.

Vents for the top layer of the roof are made in the form of a retractable roof outlet, aerators or a gable grille. All these elements can be purchased along with the rest of the building material.

Aerators

The roof aerator is by far the most convenient and modern type of ventilation ducts. Aerators provide good air exchange by removing excess moisture, steam and stagnant air in the cold attic of a private house; they are installed on roof slopes, replacing ridge analogues.

There are point aerators, with built-in fans to ensure proper air circulation, and continuous (ridge) aerators, which are a plate with holes located along the ridge. The latter are covered from above with a roof. They provide constant air exchange and are unnoticeable.

Source: allremont59.ru

Source: stroydom.guru

All types of roof aerators are made from:

• ceramics;
• metal ceramics;
• bitumen shingles;
• flat roof.

Aerators are usually installed in places with eaves vents. But there are other options for their placement:

• point models are installed at a distance of no further than 50 cm from the ridge;
• aerators extend beyond the slot by 25 cm from both ends of the ridge;
• aerators are suitable exclusively for roofs with a slope of 15 to 45 degrees;
• the distance from the wall or chimney is at least 30cm.

Ventilation calculation

Before you begin installation attic ventilation it is recommended to make accurate calculations. Only a specialist can guarantee results. But if you still decide to calculate and carry out the installation yourself, our recommendations and advice will undoubtedly help you.

For a comfortable stay in a private house, the most important points for household members are comfort and warmth. Therefore, when starting construction and implementing the architectural plan of a residential building, it is necessary to pay maximum attention to maintaining optimal temperature and organization of high-quality air exchange. When insulating the walls of a house, many often neglect the non-residential attic space. In fact, attic ventilation, its proper arrangement and insulation will help in the future to reduce heat loss and condensation, the accumulation of which can lead to such unpleasant moments as the appearance of mold or mildew, as well as deformation of building materials.

Causes of condensation in the attic

In a private house, as a rule, the attic is cold, but this does not mean that there is no need for ventilation or insulation of such a room. As a result, such an unpleasant phenomenon as condensation occurs, which can lead to catastrophic consequences and disruption of living comfort. Reasons for its appearance:

Condensation is the result of poor quality construction work and technical errors in the arrangement of operating systems. The most common mistake is improper attic ventilation. Many people consider its organization optional, which is how the following myths are born:

• During the cold season, warm air escapes from the house through the ventilation, which prevents the full heating of living rooms.
• Ventilation is only necessary in the summer to ventilate rooms in the house.
• The size of the ventilation holes is not critical.

Experts say that negligence in creating a high-quality ventilation system leads to negative consequences. Over time, condensation will begin to accumulate under the roof, which means that mold, mildew and rotting of building materials cannot be avoided! Even in cases where the ventilation area is too small, its effectiveness is zero.

The standards are as follows: for every 500 square meters of attic space there is 1 square meter ventilation holes. Only then can we talk about high efficiency of systems. This ratio allows you to create full ventilation of the attic all year round, without heat loss in a cozy family nest.

The essence of ventilation

Effective ventilation of the attic in a private house, namely unhindered ventilation and air exchange between the under-roof space and the street, is carried out by a system of precisely spaced gaps and holes. The most effective vents are made in the ridges of the roofs and under the very overhang. This arrangement allows you to use the pressure of wind and heat that emanate from the ceiling of a residential building for air exchange. If a cold attic in a private residential building is built in accordance with all the requirements and rules, and the ventilation is organized taking into account all architectural nuances, then within one hour the cold air masses manage to circle the entire roof twice from the inside. Ventilation of the attic space in a private house requires constant air outflow. In order to ensure this, the following elements are needed:

Practice shows that in order to recreate an optimal and functioning air exchange system, as well as to prevent condensation from accumulating under the roof, it is necessary to create a gap of 4-5 centimeters on it. This width can be provided by sheathing slats, which promote unhindered air circulation in the under-roof space.

This method of ventilating a room is suitable for those roofs that are covered with ondulin, corrugated sheeting or metal tiles. This is due to the specific shape of the materials, which allows free passage of air, and, accordingly, ventilation. If they are used soft coverings for the roof, then the installation of the counter-lattice is carried out with gaps, which make it easier for air to pass through the most problematic areas.

System of dormer windows and vents

One of the common measures for arranging attic ventilation in a private house is air exchange carried out by dormer windows. In this case, you don’t need to use a system of holes, vents and gaps. According to experts, this method is not extremely effective, but condensation does not accumulate in the room. The rules are as follows:

1. The size of such windows should be at least 60x80 centimeters.
2. Windows are installed on opposite gables.
3. The windows are placed at an even distance from the cornice, the sides of the building and the ridge.
4. The distance between two adjacent windows is at least one meter.
5. The window can be installed directly into the ventilation grille in the attic.

This method of air exchange is popular in the construction of summer houses and country houses. But there is also a disadvantage of such a system: air can stagnate under the dormer window and above it. But if you choose high-quality building materials and carry out the installation correctly, condensation will not accumulate in the attic space. Another, simpler way is to place vents. So how to create ventilation yourself, without resorting to the help of specialists?

Installation dormer window

In a private house, you can do the ventilation of a cold attic yourself. Evidence that condensation has accumulated is the appearance of an unpleasant smell of mustiness and dampness. Violation of comfort prompts many to immediately take up tools and begin fixing problems. In order for the ventilation system to provide optimal air exchange, condensation did not accumulate and heat loss did not occur, it is important to pre-design all elements. If the roof is gable, the arrangement will not raise questions or problems. After the planning stage, you can start working:

• Vents are made in the gables.
• Wind slopes are covered on the sides of the roof with wood.
• All cracks are made uniformly, creating airflow over the entire surface of the attic.

Important! If the gables are stone, then there can be no gaps, and, armed with a tool, it is necessary to make a pair of dormers in the surface.

Modern devices

One of them is the most modern species Roof aerators are used to ventilate the roof. Such a device is an ordinary pipe, which is covered with a “cap” on top. Such devices eliminate condensation, excess moisture and stagnant air, creating air exchange in the cold attic of the house at the highest level.

Such a device is mounted in the roof slope, providing the necessary difference in temperature and pressure in the movement of air masses. Aerators are an innovative replacement for ridge vents. They are manufactured in two types:

Spot models are equipped with fans to optimize air movement. Continuous aerators are a plate that is installed along the ridge with holes. In appearance they are practically invisible, but due to the large area of ​​the holes, they provide intense air exchange. Is it possible to use such equipment for attic ventilation in all cases?

• Installation is possible where the presence of eaves sinuses is provided. There are other installation options.
• The roof slope should be between 15 and 45 degrees.
• The distance from the chimney or wall is at least 30 centimeters.
• Point models are installed at a distance of 50 centimeters from the ridge.

Installation roof aerator

Installing a roofing aerator on metal tiles Aerators help prevent condensation, avoid the penetration of hot air during hot periods, the appearance of ice and icicles in winter, dampness and premature wear of rafters. When planning the method of attic ventilation in a private house, you need to proceed from many criteria: architectural features structure, roof shape, type roofing materials and room area. The effectiveness of the system depends on the quality of materials, the placement of vents and the correct installation.