A floor made from edged boards is environmentally friendly and practical at low cost. How to make a floor from edged boards How to make a beautiful floor from edged boards

Mankind has made all kinds of products from wood. This is true unique plant and an integral element of everyone’s everyday life. And interiors made of wood look truly chic, and at the same time simple.

Today, the trend is for floors made of edged boards, since the lumber is durable and easy to use, and it will harmoniously combine with any room decor. An important advantage is that you can lay it down with your own hands; in addition, it is able to allow air to pass through, thereby regulating the microclimate.

“Material without health risk”

When choosing a wooden covering, consider factors such as:
absence of various defects;
boards must be at least two meters in length;
lack of moisture on the product;
choose polished products.

You should buy material with a reserve of twenty percent, since some of the boards will certainly decrease during processing, and in the future you may not find where to buy the missing products. color scheme and texture.

Preparing the base for a wooden floor

Typically, edged boards are laid on a special device called logs. This design is able to minimize differences in roof heights. To create a log on our own It is recommended to use timber with a section of 50 by 100 mm. The logs need to be constructed at a distance of eighty centimeters. Provided that the boards are laid at a thickness of forty centimeters. If their thickness is slightly less, then a gap of half a meter should be made between the logs.

Laying wood flooring correctly

Installation is the final stage

Having finished installing the boards, you should move on to sanding and “voila” you become the owner of a beautiful wooden floor that exudes chic and style. In general, relying on a little knowledge and following a certain sequence, laying a wooden floor covering is not a troublesome and quick task.

Not only the beauty of the room, but also the durability and functionality of the floor depends on the choice of flooring. This is why many craftsmen recommend making floors from planks. In addition, the installation of this material is so simple that you can make the floor from edged boards yourself. This flooring is unpretentious to use, durable and reliable. And most importantly, depending on the choice of finishing method (painting, tinting, impregnation with oil, varnish, etc.), you can give the room the desired look.

Choosing edged boards

Before you make a plank floor with your own hands, you need to choose the right wood. First of all, pay attention to the type of wood. This determines both the price per cubic meter of material and performance characteristics floor. For small rooms It is best to use elements made from coniferous wood - pine, fir, larch, cedar, spruce. This material is different:

• antibacterial properties;
• harmlessness (this floor is suitable even for allergy sufferers and asthmatics);
• practicality, durability;
• reasonable cost (price pine boards 4 cm thick is $60 per cubic meter).

For children's and sleeping areas, you can choose aspen or alder. Such wood is characterized by the absence of odor, as well as preservation appearance: Even after many years of use, the floor will look like new. In interior photos online you can see how beautiful an aspen or alder board looks in a room.

Also, when choosing, you should pay attention to the following product parameters:

1. Degree of dryness. It's better not to use wet material, otherwise the service life of the coating will be short. Since it is impossible to check the moisture level of the wood when purchasing, we recommend purchasing the flooring in advance so that it can sit in the room where it will be laid and adapt to its conditions.
2. Product quality. There should be no visible defects on the surface.
3. Design.
4. To ensure that the pattern and color scheme of the elements match, purchase material from the same batch. Element size.
5. It is better to use floorboards that are at least 2 m long. Typically, the edged board has the following dimensions: thickness 25-45 mm and width 85-130 mm. Preference should be given to thicker products for their durability. The price per cubic meter also depends on the dimensions. Thus, elements with a thickness of 25 mm cost $46 per cubic meter, and the price of a product with a thickness of 30 mm is $58 per cubic meter.

Compound. For quick DIY installation, choose sanded and tongue-and-groove floorboards.

Important: when purchasing flooring, you should buy 15-20% more material. This is due to the peculiarities of installation, because some of the elements will have to be shortened a little during the work process.

Preparatory work Laying of edged boards can be done on logs and concrete base

. In this case, it is important to carefully level the floor, so a two-layer structure is often used, consisting of a rough base and a finishing floor. Therefore, when calculating the price of a floor, it is worth taking into account the purchase of materials for the construction of the base.

Before making a floor with your own hands, you should prepare the material. To do this, logs and linings under them are treated with fire retardants and antiseptics to protect them from burning and rotting. Also, the base of the floor needs waterproofing. For this you can use penofol or ordinary polyethylene.

Laying the floor on joists To level a floor with large changes in height, it is better to use joists. timber for logs - 100x50 mm. More details about laying plank flooring on joists can be found in the video provided at the end of the article. Work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. First, the outermost joists are installed at opposite walls. Next, all other elements are laid with a certain step along the stretched cord. Insulation can be placed in the space between the joists.

It is important to know: the pitch of the timber depends on the thickness of the boards. For products with a thickness of 3-4 cm, the lag pitch is 800 mm. Boards less than 3 cm thick are laid on logs installed in increments of 50-60 cm. Boards thicker than 4 cm can be mounted on beams laid in increments of 1 m.

1. All logs are leveled and attached to the concrete base using self-tapping screws and dowels or anchors.
2. After installing the logs, rough flooring is made of fiberboard.
3. Next, you can make the finishing flooring yourself. In this case, the size of the boards is selected so that the end joint of all elements falls on the central axis of the log. The first row is laid at a distance of 15 mm from the wall. The elements are attached to the joists using self-tapping screws.
4. After laying all the boards, the baseboards are installed. They will close the gaps between the flooring and the walls.

Laying on plywood

Plywood can be a good option for subfloors on a relatively flat base. With its help you can level an old wooden or concrete base. Plywood practically does not deform, it is strong and reliable. However, the use of such a subfloor is not recommended in places with high humidity.

Plywood can be laid on wooden sheathing or directly on concrete surface. To fix it, anchors, corners, and self-tapping screws are used. The first installation method is suitable for uneven substrates. The size and pitch of the sheathing beam depends on the thickness of the plywood and the unevenness of the base.

The installation process is so simple that it can be understood from the photo above:

1. First, a timber sheathing is constructed on the floor. It needs to be leveled horizontally. The sheathing is attached to the base using screws and dowels.
2. Further to protect against condensation wooden sheathing covered with glassine paper.
3. Now you can lay down the plywood. All sheet joints must be on the sheathing beams. A gap of 1.5-2 mm is left between adjacent plates to protect against deformation. The plywood is attached with self-tapping screws to the sheathing.
4. After this, you can lay the edged boards in the same way as described in the first laying method.

Laying on a concrete base

Sometimes to even out concrete base in a low room, make a screed. Plank flooring can be done directly onto the screed. However, to protect the boards from contact with concrete, it is necessary to make insulation from primer mastic or polyethylene foam.

1. The sanded boards are laid out on the floor and numbered. The age-old rings on adjacent elements should face in different directions.
2. Laying is carried out from the wall with a distance of 15 mm. This gap is needed for floor ventilation.
3. The nails are driven in at an angle with the head deepening.
4. After installing the first element at a distance of 40-60 mm, staples are driven into the wooden subfloor, joists or sheathing bars with a gap. Then a wedge is driven between the board and the bracket. This will allow the edges of adjacent elements to be pressed tightly.
5. After this, the board is fixed with nails. The staples and wedge are removed. After a couple of rows of boards, you can again use staples and a wedge to tightly connect the elements. All boards are additionally compacted with a mallet.
6. To make it easier to install the last board, the tongue and groove can be leveled with a plane. Then the board is glued and nailed down with nails, which will subsequently be hidden under the baseboard.

Before laying plank floors as a finishing coating, you need to choose the right material, prepare the base and lay several insulating layers in the cake. A wooden floor can be laid on beams or hollow, solid monolithic slabs.

Hydro- and vapor barrier must be used, acoustic materials and insulation are used as needed. A water-heated floor under a tongue-and-groove board is not effective.

The quality of the material determines the comfort of living, the budget for repairs and operation, and the service life of the flooring.

When manufacturing sheet piles, manufacturers are required to comply with the requirements of GOST 8242:

Important! The thickness of the sheet pile affects its rigidity and strength, therefore, for the BP-27 beam and the DP-35 board, the beam pitch/jog is 0.6 m, and for the DP-21 sheet pile it is reduced to 30 cm.

Lumber quality

The tongue and groove is made from edged boards of Extra, A or B grade, the output parameters are controlled in accordance with GOST 8242:

• integrity - boards 6 - 14 cm wide are usually solid, wider products are glued using furniture board technology;
• cleanliness of processing - roughness 120 microns for varnishing, 200 microns for painting, back surfaces of lumber have 500 microns;
• humidity – 8% when packed in film or 12%;

A wide board is more convenient to work with and is usually made by gluing, so it is less susceptible to warping. Conifers pine/spruce are considered budget-friendly, larch and cedar are valuable species, by default impregnated with a natural antiseptic. A solid-length tongue and groove made of hardwood without splicing is always shorter than a coniferous one. This is due to the structure of the wood.

Prohibited breeds for flooring are:

• linden, poplar for the entire range;
• BP-27 and DP-27 made of aspen and alder are suitable exclusively for residential premises;
• DP-35 is not made from alder and aspen.

Important! On the back side, the tongue has several narrow or one wide cut, necessary for air circulation and compensation internal stresses wood.

Preparing the base

The tongue and groove is laid either on joists/beams, or less often on the subfloor, depending on the specific tasks being solved and additional conditions that need to be taken into account:

• a continuous subfloor is more expensive than a subsystem made of bars or boards on edge as joists, laid at intervals of 30–60 cm;
• the attic and basement floors must be insulated and insulated from damp vapors;
• Acoustic materials with reflective and absorbing properties are often placed inside interfloor ceilings.

If the tongue-and-groove board is planned as a finishing coating on the floor slabs, the logs are mounted on the screed. Or across beams on floors of this type, only if the pitch of the beams does not correspond to the design size (more than 60 cm).

Waterproofing

Regardless of the floor, moisture can penetrate into the floors, therefore, when making a wooden floor with your own hands using beams or reinforced concrete slabs, it is necessary to take into account the nuances of the design:

• waterproofing is created from dense membranes fused roll materials or polyethylene films(2 layers of 150 microns minimum);
• applied in a continuous layer;
• extends onto the walls by 15 cm;
• joints are sealed.

If a wooden floor is made using joists on a slab floor, the waterproofing is laid on a leveling layer (screed or expanded clay sand). After installation, the floor slabs have significant unevenness; without a leveling layer, the film can be torn by the soles when walking.

Waterproofing wooden floors on floor slabs.

Floor beams do not provide a continuous rigid horizontal layer. Therefore, a binder is attached to them:

• edged board from below, which is the ceiling of the lower floor
• pieces of edged boards on top of a skull block fixed along the beams in the lower level

Vapor barrier for wooden floors along beams.

Important! In this case, the vapor barrier is laid on top of the plank flooring and on top of the beams, that is, not in one level, but in steps.

Thermal insulation

Since there are no hydronic underfloor heating circuits under wood finish floor coverings, interfloor ceilings the beams are not insulated. However, thermal insulation is necessary inside floors in contact with unheated levels - attic, underground. In an unused and unheated attic, tongue and groove boards are not used, since the room is non-residential. However, for walking here, edged boards or boards made of this material can be laid. In this case, you should take into account the nuances:

• the waterproofing layer is not able to completely prevent moisture from penetrating into the ceiling structure;
• wood (beams and joists) absorbs this moisture, but cannot evaporate back if vapor-proof polystyrene foam is laid around it;
• rotting begins, the proliferation of mold, mildew, and pathogens begins.

Therefore, it is necessary to lay mineral wool or Ecowool inside a wooden floor or between logs made of a bar on a reinforced concrete slab. These insulation materials are hygroscopic, they also absorb moisture and do not interfere with its evaporation from adjacent wooden structures.

Soundproofing

In conventional mineral wool insulation, basalt or fiberglass fibers are oriented horizontally. In special soundproofing mineral wool they have a vertical orientation. Therefore, one layer of thermal or sound insulation does not solve all problems.

Screeds on floor slabs use comprehensive sound insulation:

• layer of elastic material – partial absorption of airborne and structural noise;
• a layer of concrete with a minimum thickness of 5 - 6 cm - the screed has a large mass and reflects part of the wave that penetrated through the previous layer.

Soundproofing the floor.

When making board flooring yourself, massive concrete screed is absent by default, the effectiveness of the soundproofing structure is sharply reduced, and it will not be possible to significantly increase the level of sound insulation.

Vapor barrier

After the wood and insulation have absorbed the moisture that has penetrated them, these materials begin to evaporate it. The task in this case comes down to freely removing moisture from the beams and insulation, but not letting excess moisture back out of the room. For this purpose, special membranes are used that allow steam to pass in only one direction.

• it freely passes moisture through itself;
• moisture condenses on the outer surface of the membrane;
• is given natural ventilation in a specially provided air layer inside the wooden floor.

Vapor barrier of boardwalk.

The cuts on its back surface are responsible for circulation under the tongue and groove board. In order for air to flow into the structure and flow freely out, ventilation hatches are made in the plank flooring and decorated with grilles. They are placed diagonally across the room near the baseboard in the least visible places.

Purpose of the log

IN different designs floor joists solve the same problems:

• floor slabs - under finishing coat it is necessary to hide the insulation, sound insulation and provide a ventilated space, so the tongue and groove is nailed or screwed to the joists with self-tapping screws;
• wooden flooring - logs are needed when there is a large distance between the beams to prevent deflection of the tongue-and-groove board;
• ensuring a horizontal level - gaskets, polymer wedges or leveling floor studs are used;
• providing a spatial box - inside which insulating materials can be placed.

The logs are made either from a 50 x 150 mm board or from a block of suitable cross-section. To ensure vertical stability, jibs and spacers can be mounted between them.

Wood floor technology

Before laying wooden floors in rooms, you should consider the following nuances:

• even after special processing wood is not recommended for use in rooms with high humidity;
• By analogy with a log house, the floor covering will inevitably shrink, so not all the boards are fastened in a row, but only in the first, every fourth and last row;
• after 6 - 12 months, the covering is sorted out, the gaps between the floorboards are eliminated by repeated tightening, bent and warped boards are replaced with new ones.

Lumber in wooden house The easiest way is to treat it with a fire retardant and antiseptic before laying, and then just saturate the cut areas when cutting it. For the convenience of developers, manufacturers produce colored fire-bioprotection so that the surface is evenly treated with a protective composition.

Laying scheme

Rows of tongue and groove boards are placed across the beams or joists. In designs wooden floors choice of orientation of floorboards relative to window and doorways absent. On reinforced concrete slabs The logs can be oriented in any direction.

• V complex projects the rooms have an original configuration;
• During construction, mistakes are made, due to which opposite walls are not parallel to each other;
• If you can choose the orientation of the floorboards, it is better to place them with their ends facing non-parallel walls.

Advice! It is not recommended to use a diagonal layout of tongue and groove boards. Otherwise, when joining after 6 - 12 months, to eliminate cracks from shrinkage of lumber, the floorboards in each row will have to be cut near the walls.

Installation of tongue and groove boards

To lay a wooden floor from profiled tongue and groove, you need to perform the following sequence of actions:

Clamps, jacks or wedges are used for bonding. Gaps between floorboards are not allowed. Boards standard width 6.4 – 14 cm are attached on one side, with a wider face - on both sides along the width of the floorboard. Fastening is carried out through the head of the nail/screw or at 45 degrees into the groove. In the latter case, the maintainability of the floor covering sharply decreases.

Since the laid tongue and groove will inevitably have to be additionally bonded after six months to a year of drying out, during initial installation it is better to fasten it vertically, and during final installation after a specified period - in a lock at 45 degrees. In 85% of cases, the tongue and groove is painted, less often it is opened with two layers of varnish.

Read more about the nuances of flooring tongue and groove boards.

Thus, in a private house, it is possible to lay plank flooring from sheet piles, both on beams and on floor slabs. All work can be done independently; no professional equipment or tools are required.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there are very convenient service by their selection. Just submit in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and companies by email. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

When the sheathing is ready, you can begin laying the wooden floor. You can use edged or tongue-and-groove boards. Edged ones are much cheaper. We'll tell you how to deal with them.

Tools and materials:

1. Solid wood boards
2. Wooden scraps for wedges
3. Hammer, nails
4. Jigsaw or saw

Process:

1. Make a platform for work by laying a chipboard panel on the sheathing. Before starting work, you should lay out and keep the boards in the room for several days so that they acclimatize to the specific humidity and temperature.
2. Let's get to work. Lay the first board across the joists, parallel to the wall. Leave a gap of 1 cm between it and the wall. To ensure that the gap remains, insert a wedge of this size into it.
3. Nail the board into place where it intersects with the beam. Use two nails at each intersection, nailing them 1 inch from each edge. Using a hammer, press the caps into the surface.
4. If the length of one board is not enough for the entire row, cut it exactly so that it lies exactly to the middle of the intersection. Lay another board on the remaining half, which will continue the row. Drive in two nails at the end of each.
5. Once you've finished the first row, loosely lay the next five rows of boards without nailing them. Place the sixth at some distance, as if skipping one row. Temporarily secure the sixth board with nails without driving them all the way in.
6. Saw the scrap board diagonally to create two triangular wedges. Insert them into the gap left between the fifth and sixth rows so that the triangles meet with their long sides. Use two hammers to knock the wedges toward each other, thereby compressing the deck boards.
7. If the rows are very long, make several of these wedges along the entire length.
8. Secure the boards pressed tightly together in place with nails or screws.
9. Remove the wedges and temporarily nailed sixth row of boards, removing the nails. Place new five rows after the nailed five rows. Then compress them again using wedges.
10. Work like this until you cover the entire floor with boards.
11. If the distance between the wall and the laid floor is too small to accommodate the last row, cut the boards along required size. At the same time, it is very convenient to work with a jigsaw. Hammer them in and then secure them with screws.
12. The wooden flooring is ready! You can cover it with varnish or floor paint.

Edged board flooring is environmentally friendly and practical at low cost

Have you decided to build a beautiful, warm and environmentally friendly home of your dreams? Then it will certainly become a rhetorical question: What kind of floors will there be in this residential building? Of course, it will be a floor made of edged boards - and there should be no objections here.

Today there are many options synthetic surface floors - it all looks very nice, is convenient to use, etc.

Edged lumber - reliable and durable

However, the expertly laid plank floor, made from edged material good quality:

• first of all, it will advantageously decorate your new or completely renovated home;
• will make it feel warm, cozy and, most importantly, durable.

In addition, such a coating is easy to care for and can also be short time quality repair.

Edged lumber

Flooring edged board is a material made (cut) from a log and sawn along the edges in such a way that no bark remains on its edges. The width of edged lumber is usually greater than twice the thickness. Range of applications on construction market significantly exceeds consumer demand for its unedged counterpart.

This product is shipped from warehouses as follows:

Today, the most popular wood species suitable for processing are:

• spruce: has a looser structure, but is endowed with increased thermal insulation properties, and is more often used in interior decoration;
• pine: most often used for the construction of frames (in floor and roof structures).

Based on the requirements of GOST 8486-86 “Lumber from coniferous trees,” which describes the requirements for the production of timber, lining and edged boards from pine, spruce and other types of coniferous wood, the material is divided into five grades:

• 1 – 4 grades (differ in quality and price);
• selected 5th grade.

GOST provides for all parameters of geometric dimensions, defects that occur both on the surface of the wood and on its edges. The material comes in a width of 85-130 mm, with a thickness of 25-45 mm.

Advice!
In order for the edged floor board to serve you for a long time, you should choose it thicker.
When purchasing, pay attention to ensure that there are as few knots and bark residues as possible.

Laying a floor from edged boards

If you have ever done renovations in your own apartment with your own hands, you can easily master laying a new wooden floor.

The following coatings are commonly used:

• parquet panels;
• tongue and groove boards.

Factors when choosing edged board floors

Parquet floors are not a cheap pleasure. However, if you purchase edged lumber, the price of which is much lower, and even produce the flooring without the involvement of outside dealers, your floor will be cheaper than even the laminate flooring of an apartment or house.

What should you remember when choosing floorboards?

The following factors exist:

1. Humidity percentage. It is almost impossible to check this factor locally, so we recommend purchasing floor boards in the fall, laying them in place so that the material can rest and “acclimatize” to your conditions.
2. When purchasing, carefully check the material for the presence of: cracks, chips, knots and rot.. Before laying, be sure to treat the boards with inside means (antiseptics) for water based against fungus.

The photo shows selected quality products from edged wood 100% suitable for laying floors

Remember!
The instructions for laying floors from edged boards suggest: logs should be installed under any type of flooring.

Most often, logs are made from 50x50 mm timber. They are attached to the concrete surface using anchors, precisely level. Afterwards, take boards with a thickness of at least 3 cm ( perfect option– 4-5 cm).

Step-by-step installation process

1. The first edged floorboard is laid parallel to the wall (the distance from it should be 1 cm, for which it is most convenient to use wedges of appropriate thickness, driving them along the wall at a certain distance).
2. The board is attached to the joists (beams) using nails - two are driven in at all intersections of the beam and the board. The hats should be completely sunk.
3. If short boards are found, they should be laid to the middle of the beam width. Each such end of the board is nailed with two nails.
4. Subsequent boards (4-5 rows) are applied tightly to each other, without hammering them with nails. The next (5th or 6th row) is laid at a slight distance and lightly fixed with nails.

Edged boards laid on joists before driving in wedges

1. Now a pair of triangular-shaped wedges are cut out of any scrap, which are inserted into the gap left. These wedges are driven with hammers towards each other, compressing the deck boards in the process.
2. If there are long rows, the number of wedges increases.
3. After this, the first rows are visually inspected for tight contact, after which they are nailed.
4. The wedges and the separately “baited” board are removed and the operation with the next rows is repeated in a similar order.
5. The final stage involves laying the last edged board, the width of which is adjusted using a jigsaw.

Summarizing

The finished wooden floor should be sanded and painted according to your wishes, although varnishing it would be much preferable: the natural, unique pattern of the wood will remain visible. Nowadays, you can choose a varnish of any shade you like.

Boards coated with clear varnish retain all the visual advantages of the structure of the wooden flooring

As you can see, the process of laying edged boards is not complicated and is quite feasible even for an inexperienced amateur craftsman. And this article is ready to confirm all the information you read above!

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