Professional advice and instructions for preparing the floor yourself, laying and grouting tiles. Technology for laying ceramic tiles on the floor. Learning to lay tiles on the floor.

Most often, laying tiles on the floor is entrusted to professional tilers and they do it for good reason. After all, the durability and beauty of the coating greatly depend on the quality of installation, and the work process itself is very complex. However, even a beginner can lay even tiles on a fairly level base with his own hands using the standard “seam to seam” pattern. The main thing is to choose the right mounting solutions and strictly follow the technology. Our step-by-step instructions with photos and a selection of useful videos will help you with this. This theory on laying tiles will also be useful to those who need to monitor and accept the work of tilers.

Materials, tools and equipment

Here is a list of materials and tools you will need during the process of laying, cutting and grouting floor tiles.

Tools and equipment:

  • Tape measure, metal ruler and corner;
  • Construction pencil for marking;
  • Construction level and rule;
  • Construction mixer or drill with a stirrer attachment;
  • Tile cutter or electric cutter on tiles;
  • Core or glass cutter (needed for curvilinear cutting of tiles);
  • Tile nippers (for cutting curved);
  • File (for sanding cut edges);
  • Putty knife;
  • Notched spatula (6-8 mm);
  • Master OK;
  • Rubber spatula for grouting joints;
  • Rubber mallet;
  • Bucket with sponge and rag;
  • Knee pads and household items gloves.

Materials

In addition to the tile itself with a 10% margin, you will need:

  • Tile adhesive that matches the base material (concrete, wood, old tiles, etc.), as well as the characteristics of the tile itself;
  • Crosses of the desired size;
  • Grout the desired color;
  • Primer.

Step 1. Preparing the base

First you need to prepare the base so that it is level, clean and dry. It is preferable to lay the tiles on a concrete screed, but if desired, you can also lay them on old tiles or wood, chipboard (or other similar material). However, keep in mind that installing tiles over old cladding will increase the height of the final floor.

To lay tiles on a concrete screed you need: remove possible roughness with a scraper, vacuum the floor, wash with an alkaline cleaner, then cover with a layer of primer (preferably) and wait 2-4 hours until the floor is completely dry. Next, if concrete base uneven (deviations of more than 5 mm per 2 linear meters), then it must be filled with some leveling compound and wait until it dries.

To lay tiles on old tiles you need:

  • To improve the adhesion of old tiles to glue, sandpaper or a sander is used to go over it;
  • Then the coating is vacuumed and washed, if necessary treated with a primer (drying takes 2-4 hours) and covered with a self-leveling mixture.

Attention! When laying tiles on a heated floor system, turn off the heating 1-2 days before starting work. You can turn on the heating or underfloor heating only 2-3 days after grouting the joints. For styling ceramic tiles On a “warm floor” you need to use glue with a high content of elastic polymers, which will prevent temperature deformation of the base.

Step 2: Drawing the Markup

Once the floor is dry, you can start drawing markings. There are many ways to draw markings, but they all have the same goal:

  • The floor must be marked so that, firstly, the cut tiles are not placed in plain sight; and secondly, as little pruning as possible was required. Ideally, the tiles should be cut by a third or a maximum of half.

So, for example, the markings can be constructed in such a way that entire tiles are placed at the entrance, along the axes of the window opening or, say, at the threshold balcony door. In our article we will look at one of the most popular ways of laying tiles on the floor - along two perpendicular axes from the center of the doorway.

So, draw a line from the center of the threshold to the center of the opposite wall using a cord or laser level. Further along this line, begin laying a row of tiles with crosses “dry”. After placing the last intact tile, draw a line along its outer edge so that you have two strictly perpendicular vertical lines as in the diagram below. It is advisable to use a square to make sure that the corners are right at 90 degrees.

In the corner of the perpendicular we will glue the first tile, and from it we will lay the first row (along the horizontal line).

Step 3. Laying the first tile and first row

Dilute the glue in a bucket according to the manufacturer's instructions, apply it with a spatula to one of the corners of the intersection and at the same time to the area of ​​​​several tiles of the future first row, slightly going beyond its limits. Then smooth out the glue with a notched trowel, holding it at a 60-degree angle. Try to always keep the comb at the same angle so that the glue is of the same thickness.

Attention! If the tile has a size of more than 30x30 cm or 20x30 cm, then the glue must be applied to the tile itself in a thin layer (apply the glue to the tile and immediately remove it almost completely with the same spatula). For very large formats, the layer of adhesive on the tile can be thicker and thinned out with a notched trowel as shown in the photo below.

Then glue the second tile in the same way and level it with the first using a mallet and a rule. Make sure the tiles are level by placing a level directly on two tiles at once as shown in the photo below.

Check the height of each laid tile with the previous one. If necessary, remove excess or, conversely, add glue

Only when both tiles are aligned, insert crosses along the corners of the tiles and into the seam.

Now continue gluing the tiles in the same way until the entire first row is complete. Go over it again using the rule and check the evenness with a level.

A few rules and useful tips on installation

  • The subfloor and tiles must always be dry.
  • Try to apply glue to no more than 1 linear meter facing area at a time.
  • Glue that has stood for more than 30-40 minutes becomes unsuitable for use (with the exception of adhesives from some manufacturers). Therefore, try to mix the glue a little at a time.
  • To prevent the glue from drying to the comb, constantly soak it in water.
  • The crosses must be removed before the glue dries.
  • Lean your knees on laid tiles not advisable, as this may disrupt its flatness.
  • The tiles should be taken from different boxes, so a slight difference in tone will be invisible. Before starting work, be sure to check that the tone indicated on all boxes matches.
  • On the back of the tile there is always a manufacturer's logo, by which you can understand where the tile is top and bottom. Sometimes tiles have a special masonry orientation indicator, which, for convenience, can be additionally marked on the end of the tile with a pencil.
  • Make sure to remove excess glue before it dries. It is best to remove it from the surface of the tile with a cloth soaked in solvent.

An alternative way to mark and lay the first row

Don't want to bother with markup? Then proceed the old fashioned way - start laying tiles from the most visible corner. If you are laying tiles on the floor in the kitchen, then you can start laying from the corner of the wall opposite the set, then a row of cut tiles will fall exactly under it.

More useful information You can learn how to mark and lay tiles on the floor with your own hands from this video.


Step 4. Laying the remaining rows, cutting tiles

Hurray, the first row is ready and now, using it as a guide, we can lay the second row of cut tiles (see picture below), and then all the rest.

  • Attention! The first row is made up of only whole tiles, cut tiles are placed later (in the diagram the “cut” row is designated as row 2).

How to cut the last one floor tiles adjacent to the wall? The first step is to determine its cutting line: place it on the already glued penultimate tile, put another tile on it and move it towards the wall, but not reaching the wall at a distance of one seam. Along the outer edge of this tile, draw a line on the underlying tile. This line is the cutting line.

You can cut tiles different ways and devices. Ideally you should use manual tile cutter or electric tile cutter(see photo above), if there is no such tool, then use a grinder. However, if the floor tiles are ceramic and not very thick (up to 9 mm), then you can use the old construction trick and cut them... with an ordinary glass cutter as shown in this video.

How to cut tiles curved? Apply masking tape to the tile you are cutting to prevent the decorative layer from nicking. Then use a pencil to mark a rounded cutting line, say for a pipe. Next, drill several holes along the marked rounded line using a carbide drill bit (also suitable for porcelain tiles). Finally, using wire cutters, pliers, and special tile crimpers, carefully break off the unwanted portion. Sand the cut area with a file.

Once you have covered the entire floor, make sure all the crosses are removed and leave the covering to dry for 24 hours.

You can learn how to cut floor tiles with a grinder in an L-shape, for example, under the projection of a ventilation duct, from this video.

Step 5. Grouting the joints

After 24 hours, you can start grouting the joints. To do this, first lightly wet the seams with a spray bottle or simply wet rag to improve the adhesion of the grout, and then thin the grout mixture.

Holding a rubber trowel at an angle, apply joint compound to approximately 1 square meter. meter of floor and distribute it so that all seams are completely filled. But be careful and do not try to force the grout into the seams too much.

After 15-30 minutes, remove excess grout with a damp sponge. In the same way, continue to grout the seams on other areas of the floor, with the exception of the joints along the walls. An hour after grouting the entire floor surface, it can be washed clean using water or mild cleaning agents.

After a week, the seams can be additionally coated with sealant.

Attention! Walk on freshly laid tiled floor The first 2-3 days are not recommended, ideally 7 days.

For rooms where humidity is constantly high, ceramic coating for the floor – perfect option. This material is not afraid of moisture, durable, and safe. It is suitable for high traffic areas, because... Excellent resistance to constant friction. To ensure that the cladding looks beautiful and is durable, you must follow the instructions during installation.

We look at the tiles - what does the marking tell us?

A tiled floor is practical and beautiful, but in order for it to perform its functions one hundred percent, you need to choose the right base consumables. Appearance and the decorative nature of the tiles is only one side of the coin. Here are the characteristics that you also need to pay attention to:

  • frost resistance: tiles can be laid on the floor of a veranda, porch, loggia, balcony;
  • anti-slip properties: for the bathroom, kitchen – wherever flooring often becomes wet or greasy;
  • resistance to pinpoint impacts: for the kitchen, where dishes and kitchen appliances periodically fall;
  • tile thickness: it is better to lay material no thicker than 8 millimeters on the floor in an ordinary living room;
  • if there are heavy objects on legs in the room, for example, cabinets, chests of drawers - high bending strength;
  • laying thin, glossy tiles is only possible on the wall - for the floor, choose other options;
  • the material can be resistant to the influence of chemically aggressive substances - alkalis, acids, household chemicals;
  • The composition of the ceramic material sometimes includes expensive metals - gold or silver.

The marking on the package shows how many kilograms are in the box, what area it is designed for, as well as the number of tile parts inside. Sometimes indicated additional qualities tiles For example, it may be intended specifically for a train station, airport, hospital, hotel, gym. It is not practical to lay such tiles on a regular home floor.

When choosing a ceramic floor tile, you will need to understand the wear resistance classes. They are depicted as the abbreviation PEI and Roman numerals - a class indicator next to it:

  • "I" – minimum resistance indicator external influences, suitable for rooms where the frequency of visits is minimal, for example, a loggia or a bathroom. You cannot wear shoes with rough soles here, otherwise the surface of the material will quickly wear off and it will begin to deteriorate.
  • “II” – for indoor shoes, rooms with average traffic.
  • “III” – high wear resistance, suitable for areas of the apartment where people are often present (kitchens, hallways).
  • "IV" – increased level stability, such tiles can be safely placed on the floor in any public space - a store, bank salon, post office, hairdresser.
  • "V" - the highest class of abrasive strength - for stations, large shopping centers, factories, factories.

Sometimes the degree of moisture absorption is indicated on the box. For places where water and a lot of steam are constantly used, a maximum of 3% is suitable. The dimensions of each tile element affect the installation speed. The larger the tile parts, the faster the floor covering will take place, and vice versa. Too large slabs are not suitable for rooms with complex geometry– you will get a lot of waste at the exit. For a small area, buy small tiles. If you are laying material with your own hands for the first time, purchase medium-sized tiles, because... handling a large one will be difficult.

If you have to lay floor tiles in large quantities (you buy several packages at once), be sure to look at the boxes - the lot numbers must match. The same model from different sets may have subtle differences. During the installation process, they will be very noticeable, and this will ruin the whole picture, especially in bright daylight.

Tiles may differ not only in color, but also in calibration and dimensions. Make sure that the batch number matches, because... if it differs, the linear data of the purchased building material will also be different. At first glance, a few millimeters of difference is nonsense, but in reality all the inconsistencies will be visible. Such cladding will look sloppy.

The packages should not contain defective tiles - do not be too lazy to check this yourself so as not to pay for damaged goods. Broken, cracked, chipped parts - all this can happen even in specialized stores, do not let your guard down. Do not forget about the reserve of 10–15%; take more material, because... this part will go to processing the joints with the walls, where the slab will have to be cut. The consumption will be especially high when diagonal laying floor tiles.

Tools and preparation – where to start?

The surface for a new tiled floor must be prepared. Gather the tools you will need for your work:

  • wide spatula with square teeth;
  • large building level;
  • glass cutter or tile cutter;
  • roulette;
  • soft pencil;
  • hammer - completely rubber (mallet) or regular with a wooden butt;
  • sponge, clean rag;
  • plastic containers;
  • tile crosses;
  • rubber spatula.

First we remove the old coating. Linoleum, tiles, boards - everything needs to be removed, including baseboards. It is allowed to put new cladding on ceramics only in one case - if it is perfectly smooth and well preserved. If there is the slightest damage, it must be removed in one of the following ways:

  • a hammer and a chisel with a thin and wide spade tip; if you don’t have one, take a wide screwdriver;
  • hammer drill;
  • special metal hooks.

If you chose the first one, manual method, first remove the old grout - moisten it generously with a damp sponge and scrub with a scraper until it comes out completely. If the grout is cement, only a grinder with a stone disc will do - it will need to go over all the seams. Then insert the chisel into the empty seam at an angle and carefully start hitting the blunt end with a hammer. The first tile will have to be broken completely, the next ones will fall behind in their entirety.

The operating principle of a rotary hammer is the same, the difference is in the automation of the process. Here you will need an attachment in the form of a breaker blade. The method is fast, dusty and noisy, take care to protect your face and hands - wear gloves, goggles and a respirator. Keep in mind that all tile elements will be broken and cannot be reused.

If you plan to reuse the removed material, use construction metal hooks. Remove the old grout, insert the hooks into the cracks and carefully remove the element by pulling it towards you. The method is suitable for cases where the tiles are installed with ordinary medium-strength adhesive.

In addition to the tile covering, it is necessary. A sharp metal spatula will help you with this. Pre-moisten the floor with water, wait a little and use a tool to remove the layer, clean off the remaining residue with a metal brush. The cement glue will have to be soaked for several hours, adding salt to the water - it will make the material loose and soften it well. The procedure can be automated - use a drill with a metal brush attachment.

Choosing a base - regular or liquid?

The old coating is removed, the surface is cleaned of dirt, dried glue, paint, nails - then check the levelness of the floor. To do this, use a building level, placing it on the floor - first along, then across. If the differences are more than five mm, it is necessary to level it - make the floor self-leveling or use a self-leveling mixture.

Inspect the surface carefully. All places where the old screed has peeled off - crumbling concrete, greasy floors - must be cleaned off until the entire concrete floor is intact. Seal all cracks and cracks to a width of 15 millimeters. Cut off all protrusions, even minor ones, and remove dust. If the building level shows that the floor is uneven, we proceed to perform a corrective screed. Two options:

  • ordinary cement-sand screed;
  • self-leveling floor in the form of a self-leveling mixture.

The first type is suitable for you if the differential coefficient is very large. This inexpensive option, where you will need:

  • cement grade 400;
  • sand;
  • water.

Mix cement with sand in a ratio of one to three. Add water here and mix everything to get a mixture that resembles thick sour cream. It should not spread easily, it will be convenient to level it on the floor. You can add a plasticizer to the solution - this will increase the density of the new coating and prevent cracking. Performing a cement screed in steps:

  • based on the level indicators on the floor - alabaster columns at the required height, attach the lighthouse slats to them;
  • moisten the floor;
  • Fill the spaces between the slats with the prepared cement mixture;
  • level the surface using a vibrating screed or “rule”;
  • leave the new coating to dry completely, optimal time- for a week.

Self-leveling mixture is more expensive and easier to handle. It is enough to pour it over the prepared, cleaned and primed surface and level it as usual. Installation of beacons is not required - the mixture itself forms an ideal horizon. IN hardware store choose the cement type - it is not afraid of moisture and you can lay floor tiles on it. The most convenient way to mix the mixture is with a drill and a mixer attachment. The coating dries in three days.

If the floor is smooth, but has numerous damages (potholes, cracks), treat it with a pre-prepared repair compound. The most common option is cement plus sand in a ratio of 1:3, diluted with water to a creamy consistency. It fills all the recesses using a wide metal grater. The composition must dry well - for this you will have to wait at least a day.

The next stage is thorough priming of the surface using Concrete contact(acrylic primer). This is done so that the floor surface does not absorb the tile adhesive and its maximum adhesion is ensured. The primer is applied using a wide soft roller on the bar. The floor surface will be finally ready after the primer has dried - this will take a day.

Marking in different versions - drawing a new floor

Floor tiles must be laid on a properly marked surface. This step will help:

  • avoid mistakes during the laying process;
  • save material;
  • try different variants layouts and choose the most convenient and beautiful one;
  • achieve precise placement of elements.

The ceramic slab will be laid beautifully, and the overall picture will become aesthetically pleasing if the markings are planned not from the wall, but from the center of the room. Draw the first line along the room, carefully measuring the distances between the walls located opposite each other. The points should be located in the middle - connect them with a straight line, this will be your baseline. The second guide is drawn strictly perpendicular to the first - in the center of the room you will get a cross with rays going to the walls.

If the door is located in the middle of the wall, leave the markings as they are. Otherwise, move one of the guides, bringing it to the middle of the doorway. After the base is marked, lay out all the existing tile material in relation to it, without glue, dry, maintaining the gaps - to do this, insert crosses between the slabs. This way you will save the situation from mistakes and unnecessary waste of tile material; decide on the scheme.

You can lay tiles in the classic way in different ways. The first option is suitable for the floor small rooms– bathrooms or toilets. As a start, if the area is small, it is possible to take two walls opposite the entrance. The first intact tile will be in the front corner; place the rest along the wall to the right and left until there is a space left that is shorter in length than tile element. You will fill the entire room with whole slabs; along two adjacent walls there will be empty spaces where you need to place the cut material.

Second: start laying from the center of the room, moving in a circle, first - the first four tiles, around - the next 12, and so on, until you reach the walls, where there will be spaces smaller in size than one tile. They are filled with cut material adjusted to the size of the voids. Option for medium and large rooms.

Diagonal laying looks interesting and is suitable for rooms with complex geometry. An oblique pattern will visually mask the general disharmony. It's more difficult to do, but it's worth it. The front corner is taken as a basis - it needs to be divided in half and a bisector line drawn along the entire room to the opposite corner. It will be the main one, from its center, start laying first to the right corner, then to the left, start the next row again from the middle. If this is your first time tiling, use the “seam to seam” principle, without shifting the rows in relation to each other.

Glue - how to choose and prepare it?

Making tile adhesive yourself is a procedure that is losing its relevance due to the availability of ready-made mixtures for installing ceramics in stores. When choosing, pay attention to the characteristics:

  • intended for use on floor tiles;
  • use in dry or damp areas;
  • for conventional or electric heated floors;
  • ready or in powder form;
  • on a cement floor or OSB;
  • quick dry or standard.

It can be difficult to choose between a ready-made mixture or a powder. The first is convenient because to use you just need to open the can and start installation. This option is suitable if you are working with a small area and will use up the entire composition in one go. Preference is given to specialists yourself practical option– powder, because the amount of material can be adjusted: dilute as much as you have time to use in your work. The average consumption will be eight kilograms per square meter floor.

The glue can be made in the form of a ready-made mixture or a powder that needs to be diluted independently

Breed powder type it’s not difficult - take a round container, pour the material and add water, gradually stirring by hand or with a construction mixer until it reaches a paste-like consistency, without lumps. The final mass should not spread over the surface of the tile; the relief created by a notched trowel during application should be preserved. After kneading, leave the emulsion for five minutes so that it completely absorbs the water.

If necessary, add more water and wait the same time. The drying time is indicated in the instructions on the package - prepare as much of the mixture as you can take before it starts to harden. It is better to prepare a little and re-mix than to throw away the hardened material, which cannot be diluted again with water - it will lose its adhesive properties. Before preparing the mixture, read the manufacturer's recommendations.

The easiest and most reliable way to lay tiles on the floor

There are three options for applying the adhesive composition:

  • on tiles;
  • on the floor surface;
  • coating both the floor and tiles.

What to choose depends on the degree of your qualifications in working with ceramic cladding. For beginners, the first option is preferable, because... at the same time, you will see the markings applied to the floor, and you will not have to lay the tiles blindly. We proceed step by step:

  1. 1. Apply a layer of 5 millimeters with a notched trowel;
  2. 2. Press the part firmly to the floor, align it with the guide line;
  3. 3. tap it with a mallet so that the slab rests on the glue as tightly as possible;
  4. 4. Using the same principle, lay the next and the remaining tile elements, inserting calibration crosses between them;
  5. 5. after laying each slab, check it for horizontalness using a building level;
  6. 6. Immediately remove excess glue that comes out through the seams, remove remaining stains with a rag;
  7. 7. After laying out, immediately remove the spacer crosses, otherwise the glue will completely set and it will be impossible to do this.

After installation, you need to wait a day for the adhesive base to completely dry. The final stage is to apply grout to the joints using a rubber spatula so that the material completely fills the joint space between the tiles. Cement grout, which is diluted with latex filler, is suitable for this purpose. If your budget allows, buy a ready-made epoxy-based composition - it is resistant to chemicals and more flexible.

Immediately remove the remaining material on the surface of the tile using a damp, well-wrung out foam sponge, trying to avoid the seams themselves. The tiles can be washed clean in five hours. Laying ceramic tile floors is not difficult, even if you do not have enough experience to do it. Observing simple rules, you can transform any room with this beautiful material.

Ceramic tile flooring is quite popular. This material is often used to decorate floors in the bathroom, toilet or other utility rooms (for example, a boiler room). Laying floor tiles with your own hands is a rather labor-intensive process. It requires care and accuracy. And we will tell you how this is done in this article.

Preparatory work


Ceramic tile laying work requires preparation. The first thing you need to do is stock up necessary tool. You will need:

  • trowel, notched and wide spatula;
  • building level and ruler;
  • marker or pencil;
  • tile cutter;
  • hammer (simple and rubber), pliers, drill or hammer drill;
  • plastic crosses for aligning seams;
  • primer, grout, adhesive;
  • ceramic tile.


To calculate the required number of tiles, you should resort to simple mathematics. Knowing the area of ​​the room, divide it by the area of ​​one tile. In this case, it is worth taking into account the width of the seams, 2–5 mm. As a result, you will receive the required amount of material. Add 10-15% to this value. This reserve is necessary; the tile may crack during operation, or you may cut a piece incorrectly.

It is imperative to make a reserve. The fact is that the shades of tiles can vary even in the same batch. Therefore, if you are missing just one square, it will be very difficult to find the right color.


Now you need to prepare the surface. Remove all items from the room (furniture, plumbing fixtures, etc.). If it was on the floor old tiles, you need to get rid of it. You also need to do the same with the old adhesive mass. A hammer drill with a special attachment in the form of a spatula or a chisel with a hammer will help you with this.

When performing dismantling work, do not forget about your own safety. Put on glasses, a mask, and gloves on your hands.

The next step is to clean the entire surface. Remove large and small debris, sweep away dust and sand (or vacuum). Then start leveling the base. If dismantling results in large depressions or bulges, then leveling should begin with them. The bulges are knocked down with a chisel, and the depressions are sealed with cement-sand mortar. Then it is laid on the concrete floor sand-cement screed and it is leveled. At each stage, check the levelness using a level. Unevenness is allowed in the range from 0.5 to 1 cm.


If the room has wooden floors, then the leveling technology is different. First of all, the boards must be impregnated with a special oil-based paint. When the surface is dry, a layer of waterproofing is laid. Then a reinforcing mesh is mounted to a height of 4-5 cm (for this you can use nails that are not completely driven into the floors). And only after that the entire area is filled with a leveling mixture (sand-cement mortar).

In rooms with wooden floors It is allowed to use thick plywood as a substrate (thickness of at least 12 mm). But the sheets must be laid on a surface without significant unevenness. Otherwise, under the weight of the tiles and the adhesive mass, the plywood may bend and break.


We carry out the markings

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor begins with markings. The first step (especially if you are installing for the first time) is to do a dry layout. The tiles are placed in place without adhesive. This way you can calculate everything (where you need to cut, where difficult angles are formed, etc.). When laying out, do not forget about future seams between the tiles.

There are two main ways to lay out slabs.


The easiest one is to start from one far corner of the room. This method is considered the fastest. This is how all novice tilers lay, or if they have to work in small narrow rooms, or rooms with complex geometry.

The second method is more complex - laying from the middle of the room to the sides. This is how tiles are laid in large and free rooms. In this case, the room is divided into four equal parts. The first line is drawn from the middle of one wall to the opposite, the second is also in the middle, perpendicular to the first. Laying begins from any corner formed in the center of the room. In this case, you will have to cut the tiles around the perimeter of the room. When using this method of installation, a more attractive pattern is formed.


You can also choose the direction of laying the tiles. Can be laid diagonally or in the usual straight way. The first one looks much more beautiful, but to create it you need to have experience in such work. That is why the second installation method is much more common.


Whatever method you use, you will still have to cut the tiles. It is important to remember one recommendation here. Try not to cut strips that are too narrow, as they will look bad. Of the full tile, at least 20 percent of the area should remain. Also make sure that the most visible area is made of whole tiles.

Laying ceramic tiles

Now let's take a closer look at how to lay floor tiles. First of all, prepare the glue. If you purchased a ready-made mass, then carefully read the instructions. If you like dry glue, then you need to dilute it with water (also according to the manufacturer’s recommendations).

Since the process of laying tiles is quite long, it is necessary to dilute the adhesive mass in small portions. Otherwise, it will simply dry out and increase your financial costs.

Work is carried out squarely. That is, areas of a square meter are marked and an adhesive mass is prepared for this area. After finishing one area, we move on to the next.


First you need to cover the entire area with primer. This will prevent the formation of mold and make the surface more suitable for high-quality bonding. Depending on the level of humidity in the room, the primer is made from one to three passes. Only after it has completely dried can you begin laying floor tiles.

The surface is slightly moistened, and a layer of adhesive mass is applied to it. Using a notched trowel, the glue is leveled. In this case, you need to ensure that voids and air bags do not form.


A layer of glue is also applied to the back of the tile. This is done using the same notched spatula. You need to cover the entire surface with a thin layer. The tile is then turned over and neatly placed in its place. In this case, you need to apply even pressure over the entire surface.

The tiles are leveled by gently moving from side to side. Horizontal evenness is checked using building level or using a simple stretched thread. If the tile lies below the desired level, then a little adhesive is added; if it is higher, the excess glue is removed.


A rubber hammer is used to level the tiles flat. With its help, accurate blows are delivered. This way you can move the tile to the desired place.

An even gap must be left between the tiles. Its accuracy is achieved by using special plastic crosses. They fit into the resulting seam. If the tiles are aligned along the crosses, the gap will be smooth and neat. Such a seam (2-5 mm wide) is needed to prevent the coating from swelling.


Near the walls you will have to cut the tiles. This is done using a tile cutter. A line is carefully drawn along the ruler, and then the tile is simply broken. But this must be done carefully.

Final stage

While working, you need to periodically wipe the already completed area of ​​masonry with a rag. This is necessary to wipe off any remaining adhesive before it hardens. And after laying the entire flooring, you cannot walk on it for at least two days.


After the glue has hardened, you can begin grouting the joints. For this, a special moisture-resistant putty is used. This work can be done using a rubber spatula. But first you need to clean the seams from construction waste and dust.

After all the seams have been rubbed, you need to clean the entire floor of debris with a rag. Then the grout is given a day to dry and you can begin wet cleaning.

This completes the tile laying work. You can learn some tricks and installation techniques by watching videos and photos.

Video

Video material about the features of laying tiles on the floor:

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Laying tiles on the floor is quite doable even with your own hands! In this article, we described in detail the entire process from preparing the floor to laying tiles and grouting.

Are you renovating your bathroom? Then you will also be interested in the material: and. Explore our site and do everything yourself!

Using a hammer drill (or a simple screwdriver with a hammer :) you should remove the old ceramic tiles from the surface (dismantle them), screed and waterproofing with your own hands. Afterwards, you need to thoroughly treat the corners. If you find cracks or holes, use tile adhesive and carefully seal them. If this is not done, the waterproofing will not be strong enough. Expanded polystyrene is used for insulation.

Important! Before laying tiles, the floor must be leveled. Moreover, it is worth taking care of this in advance, because... a new screed requires time and additional costs. Technology requires this step.

The old coating need not be removed only if it is strong enough, does not interfere and is almost perfectly smooth, as in the photo on the right.

On a wooden floor, as well as on a plywood (OSB), tiles can also be laid without special problems, however, in this case, you should make sure in advance that the floor is completely immobilized, level and durable. After surface preparation is done, all debris and dust must be removed. Let's move on to the next stage.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing is an important component of our bathroom and kitchen renovations. Of course, in some cases you can skip this step, but experts in general, It is recommended to waterproof any room where there is running water. This technology requirement will protect you and your neighbors from water leaks to the lower floors or basement.

Before applying protective layer The surface should be treated with a primer, which will ensure good adhesion of the waterproofing to the floor. The next step is to apply a protective layer.

Coating method of applying waterproofing

  1. Dry mixture protective material dilute with water until a homogeneous mass is obtained. Apply the resulting ready-made mixture to the floor using a special roller or brush, as in the photo. This must be done on flat areas; in corners and other hard-to-reach places you can use a spatula.
  2. In places where there are joints, it is recommended to lay waterproofing tape.
  3. In addition to the floor, it is necessary to apply waterproofing to the walls and take into account the size of the planned floor.
  4. The protective layer must be applied in several layers. The approximate interval is from 5 to 7 hours. After the last layer has been applied, the floor should stand for 24 hours.

Painting method of waterproofing

Level the floor using a special solution

This method is an alternative to the coating method, and it is also easier and more convenient for DIY repairs. Here a special waterproofing emulsion (Flachendicht, Knauf) is used, which is applied to the surface using a roller. The main disadvantage of the method is that fragility, about 5 years.

Leveling the floor before laying tiles

A prerequisite for laying the floor is a high-quality screed.

A properly made screed ensures that the ceramic tiles lie flat. In addition, further renovation work It is almost impossible to carry out on an uneven floor. As you can see in the video below, a flat floor is the basis of all repairs.

By the way, it’s not too late to think about it. This pleasant little thing will delight everyone without exception.

It is best to level the floor using special building mixtures which are intended for this purpose (self-leveling floor).

To prevent water from entering hard to reach places and did not accumulate there; according to technology, it is recommended to make the floor at a slight slope. For this purpose, a horizontal level is cut along the perimeter of the walls. Next, guide rails-beacons are laid at a distance of 0.5 m from each other.

After forming the screed, fill the floor with a special leveling mixture(ask in construction stores).

You should start pouring from the far end of the room and then gradually move towards the door, distributing the solution evenly. After the new floor should stand for about three days until completely dry mixtures. How long does it take for the floor to dry? — It all depends on the type of mixture and the thickness of the layer, but usually 1-2 days. Watch the video:

Laying tiles on the floor is a technologically complex task. Therefore, before starting work, it is advisable to first apply a primer layer to the concrete, which will provide better adhesion. The base should be rough.

The price of a master’s work per 1 m2

The price for laying tiles is a significant part of the estimate for the entire renovation. we studied proposals from private masters and construction companies and found out the approximate cost of work per 1 square meter.

Of course, in individual regions and cities, prices may differ significantly; we have calculated the average cost.

So, the price of laying tiles per 1 m2 is about 800 rubles. Please note that this cost does not include the cost of porcelain stoneware tiles and building materials (dry mixes, grout, crosses, etc.)

The process itself. Read more step by step instructions and watch the video

Laying tiles with your own hands

This is the very last and final stage of this work. Usually for styling flooring use ceramic tiles. It is the best and most convenient option. Tile on the floor - fundamentally not the right choice, because the coating will quickly deteriorate.

Do not try to start work with an uneven floor - the result will be just as uneven. There are special devices for this work, but we will describe classic look styling, proven over the years.

Before laying tiles on the floor, it is advisable to prime its surface. For this, inexpensive universal compounds are used. The primer will significantly improve the contact of the tile adhesive with the floor, which will improve the quality of all work. In general, this is not a mandatory item of work for the floor, but if you want to do everything “forever,” then we recommend not to neglect it.

Next, you should lay the tiles on the floor to see how they lie. When cutting tiles, the pieces should be correctly distributed closer to the edge, which will be less visible when entering the room. Start laying tiles from the most distant corner, in this case, it is best to use a special tile adhesive and dilute it in accordance with the instructions on the package.

The adhesive mixture is applied to the floor using a notched trowel, then the tile is pressed tightly to the surface and tapped with a hammer along all edges for better adhesion to the floor. Watch the video on how to do it correctly.

The thickness of the glue should always be the same over the entire area, and is usually limited by the size of the teeth on the spatula. The glue consumption will be about 8 kg per square meter.

Special crosses are laid between the tiles to form seams. Also, take care in advance to purchase so-called wedges for leveling the seams between the tiles during gluing. When laying tiles, be sure to use a level (photo) and constantly check the new floor for evenness.

Remains of glue must be immediately removed from the surface before it dries. Otherwise, this work will become seriously more difficult later.

After the main ceramic slabs have been laid, you can proceed to installing the cut slabs. You can cut tiles either using a special device - a tile cutter, or using a regular hacksaw for metal.

Ceramic tile - perfect solution for the bathroom, it is different high strength and waterproof. But is it possible to lay tiles on the floor yourself, without involving specialists? - Certainly! This article will help you gain all the necessary skills.

A variety of colors, shades and patterns allow you to create your own flooring design. Laying tiles on the floor yourself is not the best difficult process, much depends on availability quality material, tools and surface preparation.

Technological process

The prepared adhesive solution is applied to the floor using a notched trowel, the tile is taken and pressed tightly to the surface. For high-quality adhesion, tap with a rubber hammer on all edges. Plastic crosses are inserted between the tiles to create space for the seams. During the process, you must use a level, regularly checking the floor surface.

A distance from the wall is a must! For simplicity, use the same plastic crosses; their thickness should be sufficient for a minimum gap.

If you want to lay tiles "diagonally", then be prepared for a lot of cut tiles.
It is recommended to immediately remove excess adhesive released after the tile has laid down from the surface before it dries. After arranging the solid main tiles, you need to move on to working with the cut pieces. To cut them, a tile cutter is used; if you don’t have one, you can use a hacksaw.

The period for complete drying of a ceramic tile floor is three days. After this, you should move on to the grouting procedure.

Grouting joints

Before grouting, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the seams from dirt and dust; you can use an awl for clearing or a vacuum cleaner, and also wash them with a damp sponge. Used for grouting special composition For example, to carry out work in a bathroom or toilet you will need about 600 g of the mixture. Grouting powder is mixed with water in the proportions indicated on the packaging. When preparing, stir the mixture several times at intervals of five minutes.

Grouting is done using a spatula and a grout mixture that fills each seam. After applying the solution, it is recommended to wipe the surface with a damp cloth to remove excess. When performing the procedure, you must ensure that the seams are slightly recessed to emphasize the geometry of the ceramic tiles. For this, a special spatula made of dense rubber is used. It should take about 12 hours for the grout joints to dry completely., after this you should go through it again with a damp cloth to remove dirt.

Now, you can watch a video with instructions that will help you lay tiles with your own hands:

You may also find this review article useful. Our website contains a large variety of articles on topics related to installation, repair and use of floors.



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