Installation of doors only on foam. Choosing polyurethane foam

This type of installation uses the adhesive properties of polyurethane foam, commonly known under one of the brand names "macroflex", and its ability to expand when dried (more precisely, vulcanize), filling all the cracks and voids. After inserting the fittings, the frame is assembled on the floor and, together with the door leaf, is installed on wedges in the opening. To prevent deformation of the frame, gaskets are inserted into the gaps between the door leaf and the frame. Next, the resulting cracks are filled with foam, and after it dries, the wedges are removed and the excess foam is cut off with a knife.
The advantages of this method include the fact that, when working with the assembled block, the installer can easily assess its optimal location in the opening before its final fixation. And also the absence of holes for mounting screws in the box and the accuracy of its assembly.
The disadvantages of this method are the high risk of damage, because the craftsman often has to pull out the block and insert it again, for example, in order to remove unnecessary irregularities in the opening. This, of course, is not very convenient, given its dimensions and sometimes weight. In addition, it is difficult, and sometimes impossible, to precisely, down to the millimeter, “set the gaps” between the frame and the door leaf. The spacers inserted into these places “tighten” the hinges, removing the existing play. After their removal, the canvas returns to its natural position, as a result, the gap between the end of the canvas and the box at the top decreases and increases at the bottom. During installation, it is difficult to check how freely the door opens and closes.
The expansion properties of foam can be another disadvantage of this method. In order not to lock yourself in the room, the gaskets that limit the deformation of the box are removed after the foam has dried superficially after two to three hours. But polyurethane foam often continues to expand, and this process can continue, albeit less intensely, for quite a long time (a day or more). This often leads to deformation of frames that have insufficient rigidity, for example, Spanish doors. And as already noted, it is enough to move each post just 1-2mm so that the door leaf begins to touch the surface of the frame or the door stops closing altogether. Some installers “foam” the door frame without door leaf, installing special spacers instead, this eliminates the risk of foam getting on the canvas, and most importantly, you can leave the spacers until the foam has completely dried. But it is not always possible to install them with the required accuracy; again, this also depends on the amount of play in the hinges and the rectangularity of the door leaf.
If installation is unsuccessful after the foam has dried and finished painting works The door is difficult to fix. There are some methods, but in most cases you have to go to the “through fastening”, i.e. you need to drill holes in the wall through the door frame - in fact, the method loses one of its advantages.
The only problem is “foam” in the standard one. Because due to the thin walls of the bathroom (4-5 cm), the contact surface is too small and it is impossible to do without fastening screws.

Installing interior doors - quite complex process. Even with the slightest inaccuracy in measurement and deviation during installation, they will look askew, and, quite possibly, will not close at all. The topic of our article is door installation technology.

So, before you start, prepare necessary tool and materials. Self-installation of interior doors assumes that you will have the following materials:

• Door
• Box
• Loops
• Dowels
• Polyurethane foam
• Wooden wedges
• Anchors
• Wood screws

Door installation technology requires the following tools:

• Tape measure and pencil
• Chisel
• Goniometer
• Level
• Wood hacksaw
• Drill with a set of drills

1. If you are replacing old doors, remember that dismantling must be done very carefully so as not to damage the doorway. Before you get ready new door, don't forget to measure it. If the doorway has standard sizes 70-80 cm, then consider yourself very lucky, since a ready-made door can be purchased at almost any hardware store. If the doorway is different non-standard sizes, then the door will have to be made to order, which will undoubtedly be more expensive.

You should not measure the doorway if you do not have floor covering. Professional or self installation interior doors are made only on finished floors.

Also, do not rush to narrow the doorway if it seems wide to you. Think about how you will move furniture in and out of it. Also pay attention to the distance from the box to the wall - the platband must fit entirely, since when cut it looks at least ugly. When taking measurements, remember that there should be 2 mm gaps between the frame and the door at the top and sides, and 4 mm at the bottom. If the gap is too large, it will deprive the door of its attractiveness, and if it is too small, the door simply will not close. You can, of course, call a professional measurer who, for a fee, will save you from the hassle of using a tape measure.

It is better to give preference to doors that come already assembled box, especially if you plan to install the door yourself. Self-installation of interior doors in this case will be elementary: just fit the frame into the doorway and secure it.

2. So, you yourself or with the help of a master measured the doorway and bought the necessary door. Now you have to insert the hinges.

First, decide which side the handle should be on and which way the door will open. These two parameters determine the location of the loops.

Experts believe that from a safety point of view, it is more advisable to open the door outward.

Determine the number of hinges to be installed. Usually it is enough to screw two loops - top and bottom, but for greater reliability you can add another one in the middle.

When marking, use a protractor. Attach the hinge to the door from the end side and trace it with a pencil.

The resulting contour is simply selected with a chisel to a depth corresponding to the thickness of the loop.

Remember that ideally hinges are installed at a distance of 200-250 mm from the bottom edge of the door and 150-200 mm from the top edge. If you bought a door with a frame without a bottom crossbar, then when marking the hinges, take into account the thickness of the coating in this place. When you finish marking the hinges, screw them to the door with self-tapping screws.

When installing a door to the bathroom, do not forget about a special threshold that protects against water entering the apartment in case of flooding. If there is such a protrusion, the door to the bathroom will have to be installed 10 cm higher than the other doors in the apartment. This feature must be taken into account when purchasing a door. For example, instead of the standard two-meter design, you can take a shortened version with a length of 190 cm.

3. Next important stage- planting the door frame in its place. Place the door with hinges in the frame. For more accurate markings, use wooden or plastic wedges.

Insert them between the door and frame at a distance of 2 mm at the top and 4 mm at the bottom. Place the hinges on the door frame and trace with a pencil, then prepare the area for the hinges in the same way as you did with the door. Next, install the frame in the doorway, having first removed the door leaf from the hinges - this will make the installation process easier.

Whenever possible, choose internal fasteners. Thanks to their special design, they are invisible after installation and, accordingly, do not damage appearance doors. External fasteners will be visible one way or another.

Level the box horizontally and vertically using a level.

Using a drill, drill the necessary holes for the anchors in the box and opening.

For strong fixation, it is enough to make three holes on the left and right, but you can drill one additional hole on the top and bottom. Now you can secure the box in the opening.

The door frame can be “planted” on polyurethane foam. To do this, gaps are made around the perimeter of the doorway, the box is installed in the prepared place and foamed. As practice shows, polyurethane foam itself can withstand heavy loads and does not require additional fasteners. When installing the door frame on polyurethane foam, keep in mind that during the hardening process the foam increases in volume by 5 times! If there is too much foam, the door frame may deviate from the vertical level and even become deformed.

4. Final stage- surrounding with platbands. Secure the planks with self-tapping screws or decorative nails.

This completes the independent installation of interior doors.

When renovating an apartment, sooner or later the time comes to change the openings of interior doors. How to install interior doors with the help polyurethane foam look further.

Using polyurethane foam when installing a door

But working with this material requires not only certain knowledge - instructions for use are usually placed on the tube - but also skills in handling it.

Let's share some professional techniques for working with polyurethane foam using an example.

PREPARATION FOR WORK

FILLING CRACKS

REMOVING EXCESS FOAM AND INSTALLING COVERS

Adviсe
If you don’t have enough experience working with foam, then in order not to stain the door frame, side surfaces It is advisable to protect its bars with masking tape. The surfaces of the box and wall should be cleaned and degreased.
To speed up the hardening of the foam, it is recommended to moisten the surfaces of the door frame and wall with water; it is more convenient to do this using a sprayer.
It is better to use foam with low secondary expansion to avoid the risk of deformation of the box after the product used has hardened.
The volume of the applied foam roller and the speed of its application are controlled by the force of pressure on the applicator trigger. If the applicator has not been used for more than 15 minutes, it must be washed with a foam cleaner. Before re-application (application), you must shake the container.

At modern construction, installation or repair is widely used such multifunctional, easy to use, reliable material like polyurethane foam. Its versatility and convenience greatly simplifies construction tasks for both professional builders and ordinary consumers who prefer to do some of the repairs or install doors and windows themselves. Foam for mounting on construction market appeared relatively recently and immediately became one of the most popular, in-demand and capital-intensive goods. However, it cannot be said that it was developed only in our days - the famous German technologist, chemist and industrialist Otto Bayer invented this substance back in 1947 - as a continuation of the development of the polyurethanes he himself invented. Initially, polyurethane foam was used in the form of insulating boards for military purposes, as it provides excellent protection against the threat of radioactive radiation. In the 70s, the English company Royal Chemical Industry produced the first aerosol can with polyurethane foam, and its use in construction began in Sweden, at the dawn of the 80s of the last century.

Composition and scope of application

All polyurethane foams that are on the market contain almost the same composition and are polyurethane foam one-component sealant, enclosed in an aerosol package. In addition to the liquid prepolymer, the can also contains propellant– gas under excess pressure, displacing the prepolymer. To harden, the substance does not require mixing with other components - when sprayed, the composition inside the can hardens on its own (polymerization process), under the influence of moisture in the air, forming a porous material resembling foam in its properties. Cured foam is well and easily processed for the following construction stages– cut to the desired shape, puttied or plastered.

The name itself - “assembly”, clearly indicates the scope of application - use in the installation or repair of door frames, window sills, window frames and any other wooden, concrete, metal or plastic structures. Filling the gaps between structures and openings gives a significantly greater sealing effect than using cement mortar, tow, mineral or simple wool, foam rubber, besides, such work requires much less time and is much more convenient. When using foam, no additional tools or devices are required, and no energy sources are needed.

Properties

The substance can penetrate into the most inaccessible places, turning into a fairly hard material in a few hours.

The resulting material is not subject to rotting, has good temperature and sound insulation properties, and is also a sealing agent. In addition to filling gaps, cracks and cavities, polyurethane foam is used for insulation, sealing of structures, additional fixation of water or heating pipes, electrical wiring, sealing materials when roofing work– tiles or corrugated metal sheets. It is also widely used in the installation of stationary refrigeration units and in vehicles transporting frozen foods. Parameters such as adhesiveness and dielectric properties, fire safety (this parameter is determined by the flammability class of the foam) are also important.

• Sealing (thermal insulation)– allows you to insulate rooms by filling cracks – relevant for work areas, warehouses, greenhouses, hangars, garages, etc. Filling gaps and cracks during repairs and installations roofing structures. Use when installing door and window frames - creating a moisture-resistant, heat-insulating seam. Filling voids that arise during the installation of water or heating pipes, which are formed when they pass through walls or floor slabs.
• Bonding– you can quite confidently fix the door and window units even without the use of nails or screws. This property also makes it possible to secure insulating or insulation materials– for example, when insulating a room using foam, you can glue foam boards to the wall.
• Soundproofing– sealing the junctions of air conditioners and hoods, ventilation ducts, cracks between pipes, allows you to reduce the noise level that occurs during vibrations.

Varieties

As noted above, the composition of polyurethane foam is almost the same regardless of the purpose of its use. But there are differences in the design of the cylinders themselves, and on this basis the foam is divided into professional and household.

Professional- or as the manufacturers themselves call it - pistol. It is distinguished by the presence of a special working valve in the cylinder. To work with such foam, it is necessary to use a special dosing device - assembly gun applicator. Such a gun is placed on the balloon valve intended for it, as a result of which it becomes possible to dose foam into the cracks and cavities. This mode will allow you to significantly more accurately control the required amount of foam supply, while achieving consumption savings of up to 30%. Also important is the ability to operate the pistol with one hand. The energetic handle and dispenser trigger make work much more convenient, and, therefore, more productive. The presence of a long, thin metal barrel allows foam to be supplied to hard-to-reach places.

Cylinder valves can be either threaded - screwed onto the gun, or “fastened” in one movement. IN lately Almost all major manufacturers of foam for installation equip cylinders with a so-called reusable valve, which allows you to hermetically close the cylinder with remaining foam and use it after some time without drying out the contents. In addition, it also has additional convenience - you can work not only by holding the can upside down, as was customary, but also with the valve up, which often makes work easier, and during some work, sometimes holding the can upside down is not only inconvenient, but also simple impossible.

The disadvantage of using an applicator gun is its considerable price, so there is no point in purchasing it for occasional household work - this device is needed for professionally engaged in such installation work builders and repairmen. In addition, during its operation, additional costs will be required - after each use, the gun must be washed with a special solution that cleans the internal cavities of the applicator from the remnants of foam that has not yet thickened. This cleaning agent is also located in a cylinder, which has attachments that simplify cleaning, under excess pressure.

Household foam– either semi-professional or manual. Its use does not involve the use of any devices other than the cylinder itself. To get started, you need to put on the valve the plastic tube that comes with the cylinder, which has a lever - an adapter. For small amounts of work, this option is convenient and practical. As a rule, it is used in cases where foam expansion is not too important a factor - in ventilation shafts, interpanel seams, installation of door and window frames.

If not the entire volume of the cylinder has been used, the tube can be removed, washed with a solvent (for example, acetone) and reused after some time.

Use temperature

• Summer foam– at the temperature indicated on the cans from 5C to 35C, the foam must be used at the temperature of the surfaces being treated within the same limits. However, this temperature limit only indicates the temperature during work, and the temperature resistance of hardened foam is in a much larger range - from -50C to +90C - this applies to both summer and winter foam.
• Winter foam– the operating temperature range is from -18C (some types -10C) to +35C. “Winter” options contain special additives and additives that allow polymerization at a small percentage of humidity, since frosty air is much drier than at warm temperatures. Moisturizing surfaces in cold weather is ineffective - water quickly freezes and becomes ice. It must be borne in mind that the already expanded foam depends on the external temperature - the lower it is, the less the expansion value. For example, 300 ml of liquid foam at +20C will expand to 30L, at zero - up to 25L, at -5C - about 20L, and at -10 - only 15L.
• All-season foam- appeared relatively recently, so not all manufacturers can offer it. It has the best properties of summer and winter foam, providing, thanks to the improved formula, a large volume of foam at the output, rapid polymerization and the ability to work with it at -10C without warming up the cylinder.

Requirements for polyurethane foam

• Guaranteed declared output– competition for the market is often carried out using methods that are not entirely justified for the consumer – even manufacturers of high-quality and well-proven foam try to reduce the price of their products due to banal underfilling. For example, with a declared volume of 45 liters, only 37 actually comes out, and from 65 liters - no more than 50. Therefore, it is advisable to control the weight of the cylinder - with a volume of liquid substance of 750 ml, the cylinder should weigh 850-920 grams.
• Secondary expansion– is also a fairly important indicator, especially when installing window sills, doors and windows.
  The fact is that the expansion of the foam occurs in two stages - when liquid polyurethane leaves the cylinder, the compressed gas expands, equalizing the pressure with environment, and expands the pores of the composite, turning it into foam with a significantly higher volume. This is the so called primary expansion. Then, the foam coming into contact with moisture provokes a chemical reaction, as a result of which it hardens. But at the same time, CO2 carbon dioxide is released, creating overpressure in the pores of the foam, and its volume gradually increases over a period of quite large segment time - even up to several days, although they usually write 24 hours. This is the secondary expansion of the foam. When installing window and door frames, the percentage increase in secondary expansion relative to the primary should not exceed 15-25%. But some manufacturers, saving at the expense of the main components, produce “on-the-mountain” products with a secondary increase of 50-60%. What this threatens is easy to guess - door frames concave inwards, deformed windows and swollen window sills. Therefore, it is very advisable to purchase proven foam.
• Complete release of foam from the container– this indicator characterizes the filling of the cylinder with an “honest” volume of the composite. If there is underfilling, then during operation the pressure quickly drops - as a result, there is still foam inside, but it is no longer possible to use it - the low pressure is not able to squeeze it out of there. As a result, not only the foam that “went into use” is paid for, but also the remaining foam in the cylinder.
• Approximate foam consumption you can estimate based on the following data - 300 ml of composite gives about 30 liters of foam - with this volume you can “foam” a standard door frame with gaps of 3-5 cm. 500 ml of composite will give a yield of up to 35-40 liters - this is enough for one and a half boxes under the same conditions. 750ml - 45-50l output - enough to process two or slightly more standard door frames.
• A few more requirements in terms of the quality of the foam - it should stick well to surfaces without draining from them, the degree of shrinkage should be small (shrinkage is a slight decrease in volume after final hardening). It should also be elastic, not crack or crumble after it hardens, especially in frosty weather.

Rules of application

Preparation. Polyurethane foam sealant polymerizes using air humidity, so it would be advisable to moisten the surfaces with water before using it - the hardening time will decrease and the expansion of the foam will increase. If work is carried out in winter time– Ice and frost must be removed from surfaces.

Immediately before use, the container should be shaken vigorously for about a minute, and in cold weather, warmed to room temperature, but without using open fire. These measures will help increase foam yield and density.

When installing and sealing window and door frames, you need to remember to double or triple the volume of sealant, therefore, to prevent deformation of door or window blocks, they need to be strengthened with spacers, without removing them until the foam has completely hardened.

Usage. When spraying, the container should be held upside down so that the composite is near the valve, otherwise it may result in leakage. compressed air, a decrease in pressure will occur and a significant part of the foam will remain in the cylinder.

The seam must be filled from the bottom up, moving the balloon evenly, while filling the void volume by no more than half. If the cavities are larger than 50mm, they need to be filled not in one go, but in several steps, waiting for each layer to harden.

You need to know that although foam has a fairly strong adhesive property, it is not suitable for working with polyethylene and silicone - it will not stick to these materials.

Finishing work. If foam gets on clothes, some objects or hands, it can be washed off or special means, or just acetone.

The initial hardening of the foam surface occurs after 20 minutes - you can already touch it. But it will completely harden no earlier than after 7-8 hours - this largely depends on the surrounding humidity and temperature.

After complete drying, you can cut off excess foam fragments with a knife, after which the surface must be protected from external influence, in particular, from sun rays, - it can be plastered, puttied or painted.

Precautions

Foam in liquid form may cause skin irritation, respiratory tract or eyes. Therefore, when working, you need to use gloves and safety glasses, in case of poor ventilation and large volumes work - respirators, since the concentration of vapors may be increased.

1. Polyurethane foam

The foam can be either well-known construction brands or noname, in principle it does not matter, the main thing is that it is polyurethane foam. I have been using different brands of foams for many years and the only difference I have found is the price. If you do not have a professional gun (and when installing 3-5 doors there is no need for such a gun), then you need to buy foam with disposable nozzles inserted into the lid. The required amount of foam depends on the gap between the door frame and the wall or partition and on the width of the door frame. As a rule, one 750 ml cylinder is sufficient to install one door.

2. Plumb or good level

3. Wedges

Usually wedges are made from available material: scraps wooden beam, old door frames, baseboards, platbands, etc. But in some cases, if the doorway is quite vertical and the gaps between the door frame (door frame, jamb) do not exceed 1.5-2 cm, then ready-made wedges can be used:

Such wedges are sold in sets of 20-100 pieces. in departments of shops and supermarkets dedicated to laminate flooring. To install 1 door you need to have (or make) from 8 to 32 wedges.

4. Spacers

Typically, spacers are made from old baseboards or trim. For this purpose, you can also buy a beam with a cross-section of 2.5-3x4-5 cm. I have never seen ready-made spacers for installing doors on sale, but I do not rule out this possibility. The number of spacers depends on the design and thickness of the door frame, as well as the thickness of the foam layer. If the door frame has a threshold and the thickness of the frame is 3 cm or more, then 1 spacer in the middle is enough. For boxes about 2 cm thick, it is advisable to install 3 spacers. For boxes with a thickness of 1.5 cm or less (and there are such), it is better to use wall or partition mounts.

5. Hammer or rubber mallet

6. Hacksaw, ax or chisel

For making wedges

Work technology:

Before installing the door, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with basic installation rules , but if this is not a secret for you, then let’s go:

1. After the bottom of the door frame (on the side where the awnings are) is set to the required height, a wedge (1) is inserted between the door frame and the wall where the spacer will subsequently be installed.

2. Wedges (2) are driven in from above between the top crossbar of the door frame and the doorway. This way the door frame is fixed in height:

The vertical position of the door frame in a plane perpendicular to the plane of the wall or partition is checked using a plumb line or level. If necessary, the door frame can be carefully knocked in the desired direction with a hammer using a piece of plywood or wooden block. If you have a rubber mallet, you can do without plywood or a block.

3. To align the door frame in a plane parallel to the plane of the wall or partition, a wedge (3) is selected. Verticality is controlled by a plumb line or level.

4. After the vertical strip of the box with canopies is set to the design position, it must be secured with a wedge (4).

5. After this, the door is placed on the awnings. At this stage, the accuracy of the door frame alignment is checked: the door opens at 30, 60 and 90 degrees. In all positions, after stopping by hand, the door should not continue to move. If the door begins to open or close on its own in one or more positions, check again that the frame is vertical in both planes and, if necessary, knock in the wedges. Very often, using a low-quality level leads to this result; change the level to a plumb line or try to set the level as accurately as possible.

6. In order to determine the height of the second vertical (lock) strip of the frame, you need to close the door and check the gap at the top between the door leaf and the frame. To set the frame to the desired height from below, between the door frame and the floor ( flooring) a wedge (5) is driven in, and in order for the box to be securely fastened, a wedge (6) is driven in from above:

7. At closed door The position of the lock plate is checked. The door must be adjacent to the door frame along the entire perimeter; distortions are eliminated using a hammer or rubber mallet.

8. If the door frame does not have a threshold, then a spacer (7) is installed at the bottom between the door frame slats and a wedge (8) is driven in. It is better to install the spacer not in a quarter of the door frame, but next to it, so that the door with installed spacers can close and the position of the door frame can be controlled. It is better to make spacers not exactly along the width of the door frame opening, but a little smaller, and when setting the spacers, use wedges or “slabs” - strips of thin plywood (9). The spacer is not installed horizontally, but at a slight angle to allow room for maneuver. If you need to increase the width of the opening, then the wedge is pulled out a little, and the spacer is lowered lower (closer to the horizontal position). If you need to reduce the width of the opening, then first the spacer is raised, and then the wedge is knocked down. The position of the lock strip of the door frame is controlled when the door is closed; a plumb line or level is not needed here, since the door leaf may be slightly skewed and visually it is more important that the door leaf adjoins the lock strip along the entire length, and not the vertical position of the lock strip.

9. Next, depending on the thickness of the door frame and the gap between the door frame and the doorway, 1, 2 or 3 more spacers are installed. The principle of installing the spacers is the same, the main thing is that the wedges between the frame and the opening are as close as possible to the spacers. The further the wedges are from the spacers, the more the box can bend, especially if the thickness of the box is less than 2 cm. First, the spacer is inserted, and then it is supported by the wedges.

10. After all the spacers are set, the correct alignment of the door frame and the immobility of the door in 3 positions are checked again. The floor is covered with newspapers or plastic film and within 3-5 minutes the gap between the door frame and the opening in the wall or partition is blown with foam. The rules for working with polyurethane foam are usually quite clearly stated on the packaging.

Usually, installing a door takes 1-3 hours, but the dried foam will need to be cut off in a day, but if the thickness of the foam layer is less than 1.5 cm, then it can be cut off in 3-5 hours. If the wedges protrude beyond the surface of the box, they can either be pulled out with pliers or cut off with a chisel. It is advisable not to pull out the lower wedges on which the box stands, but to cut it down if necessary.

That's basically all, good luck.