Shingles for roofing. Wooden roof structures - a brief overview of the various options and technology for laying shingles Advantages and disadvantages of a wooden roof

The first roofing materials for the roofs of people's homes were reeds and flat stones; as soon as technologies and tools appeared that made it possible to process wood, chips and then shingles began to be used as roofing materials. Subsequently, with the development of technology, more modern materials. People of the older generation still remember how happy the inhabitants of the Russian outback were at the appearance of ordinary roofing felt; they began to replace shingles everywhere with this modern one for those times roofing material. Slate made a real revolution in construction; this covering made it possible to significantly increase the comfort of living in buildings. Today, this material is hopelessly outdated; it is being replaced by new, more practical coatings.

Before looking at the actual performance shingles, we need to find out what they are. Among inexperienced developers there is still a misunderstanding of the differences between shingles and shingles.

Table. How does shingles differ from shingles?

Misunderstanding of the differences leads to inexperienced developers getting confused about materials.

Actual performance characteristics of shingles

It is impossible to obtain objective information from manufacturers; they all only indicate strengths of its products. But is this really so? Let's analyze their advertising brochures, taking into account the many years of experience of using such coatings by our ancestors. How are shingle manufacturers trying to attract customers?

Environmental friendliness

Almost all manufacturers talk about the environmental friendliness of their products. If we consider it from a person’s point of view, then indeed, the tree does not bring him any harm. But this is called safety or harmlessness. Sustainability is related to ecology environment, and to produce shingles you need lumber. Accordingly, the forest falls, causing great harm to the environment.

Resistance to temperature changes and high humidity

Wood has resins, which significantly slows down the decay process, this is true. Coniferous wood is almost never used for shingles, and only they contain resin. The fact is that these rocks have a large number of knots; such material is unsuitable for shingles. It is made from hardwood that does not have resin. To increase resistance to decay processes, shingles are impregnated with antiseptics, these chemical substances cannot be considered safe for the human body.

Like all lumber, wood reacts extremely negatively to increased humidity, due to which not only the service life is reduced, but also problems arise with the need for periodic repairs.

Covering the roof with shingles allows it to breathe

This is true, shingles are not an airtight covering, and the wind is constantly blowing in the attic. Why the roof should breathe is unknown. Another disadvantage of such a “breathing” roof is that it is very difficult to do with shingles. attic rooms, and this is a popular type of structure today.

Durability

Outright deception. Like all lumber, shingles are susceptible to moisture. Accordingly, it rots faster on the roof than indoors. Another problem is that the coating constantly gets wet/dries out and is exposed to direct sun rays. As a result, the sheets become deformed, bend and crack. Elderly people know that the coating must be inspected every summer, and damaged or overly deformed elements must be replaced with new ones. This does not bring joy to users. Besides, after about 10–15 years it needs to be completely changed– the amount of damage becomes critical. Replacement is a very expensive and time-consuming process.

Price

Price of one square meter shingles are at least three times the cost of metal tiles or flexible coatings made on the basis of modified bitumen. But that's not all, estimated cost coverage increases several times more due to the very high cost roofing works. They can only be done professional roofers, labor productivity is low, and wage very high.

Design qualities

There are no comrades according to taste and color - this proverb very accurately characterizes the design qualities of shingles. Some people like antique roofs with curved blackened shingles, others prefer modern coatings. There is no point in giving advice; every developer has the right to choose his own style of home. But at the same time, you need to take into account all the actual properties of the shingles described above.

Conclusion - compare shingles with modern roofing coverings according to operational characteristics it's like a cart with a car technical parameters. This material is most often used during the restoration of ancient buildings to restore their authentic appearance. Ordinary developers do not cover houses with shingles; it is too expensive and troublesome. Sometimes you can find homestead extensions under shingles, but the average consumer cannot afford such a roof.

Features of shingle manufacturing

To make shingles, you must make the simplest planer. It is impossible to do it by hand; wood cannot be split into such thin plates. All manual manufacturing methods found on the Internet describe the production not of shingles, but of shingles or wooden tiles more than a centimeter thick.

Prices for various types of timber

Wood requirements

It has already been mentioned that only deciduous wood is suitable for making shingles; coniferous wood has many knots. The quality, quantity and cost of shingles largely depend on the correct choice of wood. There are a few general requirements to raw materials.

Important. It should be remembered that the yield of ordinary lumber from one round log is no less than 80%, and the yield of shingles from the same round timber is no more than 40%. This significantly increases the cost of roofing material.

How to make a simple machine for shingles

You can make a special machine yourself. To do this, you will need rolled metal (channels, angles, fittings), the assortment does not matter, you can use everything that is at hand. If the channel or I-beam is small, then it is reinforced with angles, rods, etc. It is much cheaper to make a machine from scrap ferrous metals; you can visit recycling collection points and find excellent rental products there at bargain prices.

Important. It is better to buy a knife for the machine; it is very difficult to make it yourself, and the quality will always be much worse than the factory one. And the quality of the knife is crucial when making shingles.

Step 1. Make a stand. The height is approximately 1.0–1.3 m, the main condition is that it allows comfortable work. The frame is welded from rectangular profile pipes 20×40 mm, if they are not available, then any durable rolled metal can be used. It must be borne in mind that quite large loads will be applied to it during planing of shingles; all welded joints must be made reliable. The length of the bed is approximately 2 m, this is quite enough to ensure maximum stroke of the knife and guaranteed stability of the machine during operation.

Step 2. Make a movable table from 50x50 mm corners. It should be smooth, rigid and stable. The knife, drive lever and bearings are subsequently fixed to the table.

Step 3. Weld the strips at an angle in the middle of the table and attach the knife to them.

Practical advice. In order to reduce the amount of scrap, we strongly recommend that the knife is not installed at a right angle to wooden blanks, and under acute. Due to this position of the cutting element, cutting processes are significantly improved, and this is very important for thin shingles.

Step 4. Place the table on the bed. The table moves on ball bearings closed type. Do not install simple bearings; chips quickly get between the balls and races, and the bearings jam. Check the smooth movement of the table; there should be no hitches or wobbles. If problems are found, fix them. Attach it to the surface of the table wooden boards appropriate length, thickness approximately 20 mm.

Possible problem - this part needs to be sawed off, but you can’t do this with a grinder

Step 5. Use a cylindrical grinder to remove all burrs and scale, and paint the metal surfaces.

Prices for popular models of angle grinders

Angle Grinder

Step 6. Place ball bearings on the table axles and precisely adjust their positions taking into account the width of the bed.

Step 7 Proceed to assembling the machine elements into a single structure. Check the table stroke and install limiters if necessary. Secure the knife, adjust its position in relation to the surface of the table. This must be done carefully; the thickness of the shingles depends on the height of the knife. Make sure that the cutting edge of the knife is positioned strictly parallel to the plane of the table. If this condition is not met, then the thickness of the shingles in different places will be different. Deviations up to a millimeter are considered non-critical, but more cannot be allowed.

Step 8 Check the operation of the machine while idle. If vibrations or fluctuations are detected, the frame should be strengthened. Use any available metal for these purposes.

Practical advice. In order to reduce the noise of the machine, it is recommended to attach the connecting rod to the table through a rubber bushing.

The machine is ready, you can start making shingles.

Video - Homemade roofing material. Shingles

Video - Homemade roofing material. Shingles. Machine design

How to make shingles yourself

The requirements for raw materials have already been described, do not neglect them. Otherwise, you will waste time, and the whole chock will be scrapped. Before starting work, check the knife, it should be perfectly sharp and correct position.

Important. The machine is homemade, you need to work on it very carefully and not forget about safety rules.

How to make shingles

The shingles need to be planed from the selected material; we have already mentioned what criteria to choose it by.

Practical advice. The selection process must be approached creatively; the size of the shingles depends on the size of the workpieces. You shouldn’t try to make everything exactly the same, but you shouldn’t allow a large variation in width either. The length should be as uniform as possible within 35–45 cm.

Step 1. Chop a large block in half, and then into several cylinder sectors. In this case, you need to ensure that the length of the arc of the cylinder sector is 5–10 cm greater than the desired width of the shingles. It is worth remembering what a cylinder sector is. This is a part of a cylinder (in our case, a log), limited by two radii and a part of a circle between them.

Step 2. Check the length of the sector, cut a little if necessary. The workpiece must fit freely into the supports of the working movable table.

Step 3. Remove workplace. There should be no production waste, pieces of wood, cuttings, etc. lying under your feet. Always remember safety precautions.

Step 4. Turn on the machine and place the workpiece on the work table in one of the corners of the sector. Remove a section of wood until a flat section is approximately 10cm long.

Step 5. Turn the workpiece over to the other side and remove the same section of the workpiece. Turn it with the other one towards the knife and remove the entire arc of the sector, at the same time the tree bark is removed. After this, the cross-section of the workpiece should look like a sector with parallel side edges, the distance between them equal to the width of the shingles. Unfortunately, it is impossible to describe all practical situations. The more experience you have, the faster the work will go, the less waste there will be. Theoretical knowledge without practice is nothing, you have to try to do everything yourself. There is no need to believe those who claim that making shingles is easy and simple, this is not so. You must have sufficient experience working with wood to accept right decisions in each specific case. During preparation of the segment, it must be constantly kept in one position.

Important. Safety regulations recommend wearing mittens when working with wood; they protect against splinters. That's right, mittens protect your hands from splinters. But safety precautions are designed for industrial equipment, is not written separately for each homemade machine. Industrial woodworking machines have a protected area of ​​the cutting tools, which cannot be reached by gloved hands. On homemade machine there is no such protection. If you work on it with gloves on, then there is a big risk that they can be grabbed by a knife. It moves relatively slowly and will not cut off a piece of a thick mitten, but will pull the entire hand under the workpiece. The consequences will be very unpleasant. It is better to work without mittens and risk splinters than to wear them and suffer a serious injury to your entire hand.

Step 6. Remove waste from under the machine and start planing shingles.

Practical advice. When aligning the arc, pay attention to how the knife cuts the wood - along or across the grain. You only need to cut lengthwise; in the opposite direction they rise, the surface is rough, and explosions are possible. If the direction is incorrect, then while planing the shingles, turn the workpiece to the other side.

Hold the sector by the upper corner, this is the core of the tree, shingles are not made from it. There are recommendations to chop the wood at an angle of 30° or 40°. It's all nonsense. You need to chop in such a way as to increase the amount of high-quality shingles and reduce waste. The decision is made by the master depending on the diameter of the log, its condition and the required width of the shingles. General universal recommendations does not exist, which is why practical experience is important, and not just theoretical knowledge. Theory can be explained in a few minutes, but experience is gained through years of work.

Step 7 Collect planed shingles in a stack and sort by width. The fact is that the workpiece was planed by eye, the less experience, the greater the dispersion in size, it is advisable to even it out a little. Select 8-10 shingles of approximately the same width, align the bends, lay them on a level table and install all the lower side edges in the same plane. The top ones will be at different heights.

Step 8 Turn on the machine and align the shingles to the width. This should be done several times for each batch of shingles. They need to be selected in such a way as to reduce the amount of waste; you should not put shingles with a large difference in height into one pile.

This operation may not be necessary; the width of the shingles can vary widely. But some developers want to have a more or less symmetrical roof, and for this they need shingles of the same size.

Step-by-step instructions for covering a roof

For example, consider covering a roof with shingles 45 cm long; fixation is done with nails made of stainless alloys. The sheathing is made of 20x30 mm slats with a step of 20 cm along the lines of symmetry. The sheathing pitch is selected taking into account the length of the shingles. You need to keep in mind that it is fixed approximately in the middle, the lower overhang is not nailed down. This fastening method not only increases the tightness of the roof, but also prevents cracking of the material. The shingles are very thin; if you drive nails in near the edge, cracks may appear.

Step 1. Temporarily nail a board to the roof at a distance of 15–50 mm to control the amount of overhang. At the same time, this strip will align the ends of the covering; they will be located on the same line.

Step 2. Lay out the first row of shingles and align the ends. To regulate the amount of overhang at the edges, you can use a piece of slats 5–10 cm long; apply it to the wind board and thus control the position of the outer elements. Nail the first row.

Step 3. The first row is made double, which increases the service life of the roofing. It is in the lower part that there is most water; it must be further strengthened. And, of course, it is needed to cover the cracks of the first. The second row of shingles should protrude beyond the first by 1–2 cm; taking this requirement into account, lay the material on the roof. Secure it with nails.

Practical advice. To speed up and facilitate roofing work, it is recommended to do simplest template. It is made of slats and is necessary to control the position of the lower end of each row. The template is a long strip with two nailed vertical stops. The stops are temporarily fixed to the sheathing, and the shingles rest against the batten. If you don’t want to make a template, then for each row you will have to pull the rope, which takes much more time. In addition, the shingles cannot rest against the rope, so you have to waste time manually aligning the position of each roof element.

Step 4. Lay out the next row, making sure that the joints of the bottom row overlap the shingles of the top row by at least three centimeters wide. The rows of shingles should be parallel to the ridge of the roof. Be sure to leave a gap of 5–6 mm between the elements; it is needed to compensate for linear expansions that occur after the wood gets wet. If there is no gap, the coating may be undermined. As a result, leaks will have to be eliminated. It is necessary to choose the correct position of the joints due to the different widths of the shingles.

If you have little practical construction experience and have doubts about the eye, it is recommended to first beat off the nailing line with a marking cord. Make sure that it is located approximately in the middle of the sheathing slats and must be covered by the next row.

Step 5. The last row at the ridge will have to be laid without a template under a stretched rope. It is better to trim the protruding part of the shingles above the ridge after it is installed. To do this, use a hand-held electric circular saw. Using the same method, you can also level the protruding parts of the shingles near the wind boards. The shingles must be laid carefully; if they are very thin and long, there is a risk of mechanical damage under the weight of the roofers. Use special mobility devices on the roof.

And one more important point. Always pay attention to the location of the fibers; water should flow along them and not against the wool. Fiber directions are visible with slight bending, and experienced builders determine this parameter without bending.

Video - How to make shingles

Video - Wooden tiles in Switzerland. Manufacturing and installation.

All large quantity people strive to make their homes natural. Moreover, we have materials that our ancestors used. The first one is wood. Many technologies have come down to us from them. So, for example, when installing log houses, we still use the techniques that were developed centuries ago. The roof was no exception. Today, wooden roofs can increasingly be seen not only on old houses or domes, but also on well-built houses and bathhouses. Both wooden buildings and wooden roofs are becoming increasingly popular, even as new, faster and much cheaper technologies emerge.

With the production of roofing and roofing wooden materials it will take a long time to get there. It takes a long time to make the wooden roofing materials themselves, and the flooring of such a roof is a long process. But everything can be done with your own hands, with an ax, a hammer and a couple of blades. Of course, it will take a lot of time, patience and wood.

From the name it is clear that this type of natural roofing material was once torn by hand. This was done using a long wedge-shaped blade and a hammer or mallet, which was used to hit the blade.

Used wood when working with the blade coniferous species: It is softer and easier to prick. At the same time, they chose straight, knot-free trunks that were kept for at least 3 years to dry. After which they sawed them into logs about 40 cm long. The bark was removed from them and they began to make shingles.

But shingles are not only coniferous; they are made from aspen and linden. Their wood is denser and you can’t split it with your hands. For this purpose they used a special “machine” - mahalo. These are two logs of small diameter (12-16 cm), fastened together with a king pin. On the lower one they made a device for wedging logs, on the upper one a blade was attached horizontally. The distance from the blade to the log determines the thickness of the shingles.

You can chip on dry or soaked wood. To make it easier to make thin shingles - no more than 3 mm, the prepared logs were soaked overnight.

The prepared log was secured in a transverse position, after which the top log began to be waved from side to side. The blade first cuts the wood, and then it splits off along the grain. To make it easier to swing, you could tie a rope to the handle and throw it over your shoulder. This way your hands drop lower and it’s easier to work.

Exactly according to appearance and it is possible to distinguish whether shingles are made manually or on a machine. At handmade the upper part is smooth - the blade cut it, and the lower part is wavy - as if it was torn off along the fibers. Made on machines, it has a flat and smooth surface along its entire length.

If we talk about which is better - hand-made or factory-made, then preference is given to hand-made. It may not be ideal (many people like imperfection), but it lasts longer. The fact is that when the fibers split, they do not collapse, and therefore such shingles can, as they say, last 100 years. When sawn, the fibers are cut, water flows into them and the decomposition process begins.

Method and order of installation

Masters claim that when correct installation no additional layers are needed. After all, shingles are laid in three to five layers. So no rain can wet it. Wood itself does an excellent job of both waterproofing and ventilation. Films will only interfere with natural ventilation.

The length of the shingles is approximately 35-45 cm, width 5-12 cm, thickness - 3-8 mm. It is laid in several layers one on top of the other. There are from three to five layers. The colder it is in the region, or the stronger winds, the thicker the roof should be.

Depending on how many layers there will be, choose the lathing pitch. In principle, it can be solid, but with 5 mm gaps between the slats - for good ventilation.

It is convenient to align the edge along the lace stretched from edge to edge. The planks are laid one next to the other, sometimes with a slight overlap. Each is nailed with a roofing nail, preferably galvanized. When the use of tribute was widespread, special nails were made that were thinner than regular nails. Before use they were boiled in drying oil. Such fasteners did not rust for decades.

Lay the shingles from the bottom/up, the first row along the eaves overhang. It should extend beyond the sheathing (stick out) by 3-5 cm. This way the shingles will also protect the sheathing, otherwise it will darken from moisture and may begin to rot. Planks of different widths should be alternated, so the thickness of the roof will be more uniform.

Turn the shingles so that the fibers face down. This way the water will roll off and not flow into the wood. If done incorrectly, it will quickly turn black and disintegrate. The direction of the fibers is clearly visible if the board is slightly bent.

Shorter planks are placed under the shingles of the first row. If you don't do this, it will end up bent down. Therefore, firstly, an additional beam is nailed there (if the sheathing is not solid), and secondly, two additional layers are laid. You can see how it looks in the photo.

Having reached the ridge, the shingles are cut to required sizes. After all the necessary dies have been secured, the ridge is covered with two long boards.

Shingles and shingle roofing

It can be distinguished from all other wooden roofing materials by its triangular profile: one side of the plank is significantly thicker than the other. To obtain this shape, the wood is split in a radial direction.

A wedge-shaped recess is made on the thickened side into which the narrow edge of the next plank is inserted. Thus it turns out very reliable roof. The roofing on residential buildings is done in two layers, on outbuildings - in one.

The dimensions of the gontines are approximately the same: 30-45 cm in length, 6-12 cm in width. It’s not easy to determine the thickness because of the triangular shape.

Shingles can also be sawn or chipped. Sawn is less durable, although it looks neater. Larch and spruce performed best when using such roofs. Slightly worse are pine and aspen.

Bars 50*50 mm or 60*60 mm are used for the sheathing. And all because the weight is considerable, especially if it is covered with two layers of shingles.

There is no need to use shingles that are too dry: when wet, they may swell and lose their tightness. If the wood is too dry, soak it for several hours before laying. Only purchased material cannot be installed immediately: not all grooves and ridges will fit together. That’s why they first go over it and trim it.

Laying begins from the roof overhang. A board is nailed to the cornice; it should protrude slightly - the first row of wooden tiles will rest against it. It is laid from shortened boards - 30 cm, at the top it is attached to the first bar of the sheathing. The second row is laid so as to overlap the joint of the first, and the head of the nail must also be covered (it is also advisable to find them thinner than usual, but with a wide head).

There are many ways to lay shingles; in any case, they look very decorative. Sometimes it is painted, but then the painting must be done before installation. Without treatment, the wood soon turns gray, but does not lose its water-repellent properties. Our ancestors, in order to preserve the appearance of the roof, impregnated it with melted resin. The question is where to get enough resin today.

Schindel

This is one of the shingle options, but with its own characteristics. He came to us from Europe. It is made from large diameter saw logs - from 40 cm to 805 cm. More often - from larch. Trunks without knots are divided into logs, from which the sapwood is removed. Then they are divided into quarters, each of them into blocks. Already the blocks are divided into shindels with a blade and a mallet - wood plates from 6 to 15 mm thick.

Then each plate is trimmed so that the ends are even and the planks fit tightly. But that is not all. Now the part that will lie under the top rows is planed - it is made thinner. The outer edge of the board may also change. It is either chamfered at approximately 45° or given one of the following shapes.

After the shingles are finished, they are bundled and left to dry. The ideal humidity for styling is about 25%.

It turns out that each board is processed by hand, and more than once. It is clear that such roofing material is not cheap. Is it possible to do it yourself? In principle, it is possible. But it will take a lot of time.

ploughshare

It is too handmade, but even more complex: the ploughshare has a nonlinear shape. It is made specifically to decorate the domes of churches and chapels.

There are special patterns for each row of wooden shingles. The process is also not easy. Watch the video to see how they do it today in one of the monasteries.

Board roofing

Tes are coniferous boards that were also initially split and then trimmed with axes (hence the name) to more or less even sizes. It behaves normally with a roof slope of 18° to 45°.

Today, you can also find split planks or make them yourself, and then cover the roof of the bathhouse. The technology is no different from those described above, only in the size of the blocks: they should be around a meter. The dimensions of the board are about a meter long, 15-20 cm wide. It is better not to make it wider: they warp more and crack more often. Often one or two grooves are made on the front surface of the boards through which rainwater flows.

Split the wood radially - from the edges to the center. Then all the irregularities that were formed during the split are removed with an ax. The side and end edges of the boards are aligned.

There are two installation methods:

• Two rows of boards, closely fitted to one another. The top row is laid so as to overlap the seams of the first.
• Laying with vacuum. The boards are not laid closely, but at a distance of ½ or 2/5 of the width. The second row is laid on top. This method is more economical, but there is a greater chance of getting a leaking roof during drying.

But when laying planks with your own hands, there are some tricks. The first row of boards is laid with the convexity of the annual rings up, the second - on the contrary, down. The first row is fastened with a nail in the middle, the second - with two at the edges. This way, when it dries out and warps, you will get a more even roof.

Each part of the tree has its own characteristics, which affects where it is used. For example, roofing shingles are made from the lower part of a tree - a trunk without branches and knots. The presence of the latter sharply reduces the quality of the material and calls into question the possibility of making shingles in compliance with production rules. If we consider the capabilities of shingles in more detail, its special properties are revealed, thanks to which an excellent shingle roof is obtained.

Wooden shingles have their advantages and disadvantages. However, despite the presence of disadvantages, shingle roofing continues to be used to this day. The disadvantages include:

• increased fire hazard of the material;
• short service life;
• complex production technology;
• Labor-intensive DIY installation.

Kinds

• Timber (hewn board, the length of the entire roof slope).
• Chips (a smaller version of shingles).
• Ploughshare (a spade-shaped version of shingles of regular shape with a figured outer edge).
• Shindel (European version of shingles with a beveled outer edge).

Production

Installation and installation options

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Since time immemorial, people have covered the roofs of their houses with wood. Natural tiles, reeds, reeds (more details: " ") and straw (see: " ") were also often used. And in those regions where forest was rare, roofing shingles were used. This material called differently, in some regions it is a shingle, in some a spindle, a ploughshare or a shingle. But regardless of this, the essence of the technology is the same - the roof is covered with wooden roofing boards, sawn or split in a certain way. Such a roof is as original as, for example.

Today, a shingle roof is an elite solution, which is distinguished by its high cost. In addition, there are various artificial materials, which imitate natural shingles.

What is attractive about shingle roofing?

The main advantages of this roofing material include:

Methods for producing shingles

Wooden braka plates are produced by splitting small logs. This makes it possible to obtain boards with a thickness of only 3-8 mm and a length of 35 to 50 cm. The width of such material depends on the initial diameter of the logs.

Wood is selected highest quality, that is, without flaws, knots or rot, the trunks must be straight. Before starting the production of shingles, the bark must be removed from the wood and the core cut out (this element is most prone to cracking). Blocks up to 50 cm long are cut from halves or quarters of the trunk. It is from these that shingles are produced.

Today, this manual method of producing material is used quite rarely, since the process is highly labor-intensive. In industrial quantities, shingles are made by sawing trunks on special machines.

Manufacturing and installation aspen shingles, details in the video:

Laying shingles on the roof

When settling in wooden roofs, the slope should not exceed 15 degrees. The sheathing is made continuous or in increments equal to a third of the length of the shingles. The sheathing beams must have a cross-section of 50*50 mm or 60*60 mm.

But according to some recommendations, continuous sheathing is regarded as an unnecessary element. This opinion is explained by the fact that the ventilation gap in this case will be insufficient, and this can cause the material to quickly deteriorate. A similar situation exists for arranging waterproofing. Some sources claim that it is simply necessary, others simply deny it. If you follow the canonical rules for laying shingles, then waterproofing is not applied at all. Such roofs can easily last 20, 30, or even 50 years.

Previously, larch shingles were fastened using the method of installing grooves and ridges. Now it is fixed with nails, which must first be boiled in drying oil.

The shingles are installed in several layers. On the eaves, it is additionally necessary to nail boards up to 40 cm wide and increase the number of layers of shingles by one. This is due to the greater exposure of overhangs to moisture.

The total number of layers of material can vary from 2 to 5, and it depends on the functional purpose of the building:

• for non-residential premises, 2 layers of material are sufficient;
• for residential it is necessary to lay 3-4 layers. They allow you to provide reliable protection Houses;
• if the roof has a slope of more than 45 degrees, then the shingles are laid in 2 layers.

The installation of wooden shingles begins at the eaves overhang. As already mentioned, for this area use one more layer. The top row should completely overlap the bottom row, while protruding a few centimeters beyond it. The third row is placed in a similar way - larger than the previous one, with a protrusion of several centimeters. And only the last fourth row does not reach the end of the previous one by a third of the length of the shingles (if the roof is laid using the 3-layer method). This installation scheme allows you to completely protect the eaves overhang from the action of moisture that flows from the roof slopes.

The shingle roofing technology itself is very reminiscent of a fir cone. Most likely, the builders borrowed the arrangement of its scales for roofing work, thanks to this they were able to develop a reliable roof structure that does not leak and protects well from cold and wind.

Wooden larch shingles are made from selected wood. The butt part of the tree, which has virtually no small knots, is most suitable for making shingles. Wood is selected that has high density annual rings. During processing, the younger part is removed from it, since it is susceptible to decay processes. For the production of roofing material, round timber is selected, the diameter of which is from 30 to 60 cm.

Roofing shingles are divided into two types - split shingles and sawn shingles. The logs are sawed into pieces 40 cm long, from which blocks are made, 8-10 cm thick. Next, the blocks are sawed or split into shingle plates, the thickness of which is 8-10 cm. Splitting is done manually using tools - a vice, a blade and a mallet. The block is clamped in a vice, a blade is pointed at the part of the future coating and a blow is struck.

Roofing shingles have different sizes- larger products are used to cover large areas. The grade depends on the presence and size of knots. This shingle roof is environmentally friendly pure material. Unlike traditional roofing, shingles are lightweight and can be used to cover any roof. Shingles have a high decorative value; they are not afraid of temperature changes and retain heat remarkably well. Larch tiles serve for decades without needing replacement or restoration work.

Roofing material prices

The price of wooden shingles depends on the type and grade of wood, as well as on the method of its processing. Products processed by splitting are more valuable. The BiG House company sells shingles made of larch and Angara pine - the most durable wood. The quality of our products is valued not only in Russia, but also in countries far and near abroad. From us you can order any volumes of wooden tiles, as well as other products made from Angara pine and larch. Call us, quality products are waiting for you at the best price.