Installation instructions for the metal roofing system. Calculation of metal tile overlap and installation fineness

Metal tiles are a reliable and durable roofing covering. The high corrosion resistance of this material is ensured through the use of high-quality raw materials (galvanized steel from the world's leading manufacturers) and special polymer coatings. You can buy from the Stroymet company. We also have other roofing materials in stock. famous manufacturers from Russia and Finland.

Additional elements of Grand Line metal tiles

	Fixes sheets of metal tiles at the ends of roofing slopes, preventing the fasteners from loosening. Protects the structure from wind and precipitation.
	Upper valley strip A decorative element covering the joint between the slopes on internal corners roofs.
	Bottom valley plank Provides removal of precipitation at the joints of adjacent slopes.
	Prevents uncontrolled snow removal from roof slopes. Protects gutters, as well as the area adjacent to the building, from additional snow load.
	Closes the joint of adjacent roof slopes, preventing precipitation from entering the under-roof space.
	Mounted in the end part of the ridge.
	Protects the frontal board and other wooden elements of the rafter system located in the lower part of the eaves overhangs from negative impact moisture.
	Junction strip Installed at the joints of roof slopes with vertical structures (walls, chimneys).

Basic requirements when working with metal tiles

Shipping

To avoid damage, the sheets must be firmly fixed in the car body. At the same time, they must fit completely in the body along the length (otherwise, kinks are possible on the overhang line). Optimal vehicle driving mode: speed no higher than 80 km/h, without sudden acceleration or braking.

Loading and unloading operations

They can be done manually or using special equipment (forklifts, cranes with soft slings). Packages are unloaded onto a flat, clean, dry surface. The number of personnel during manual unloading depends on the length of the sheets (1 person per 2 linear meters, but not less than 2 people per 1 sheet). Carrying is carried out in vertical position. It is prohibited to drag sheets on the ground or other surfaces.

Sheets of metal tiles are stacked using wooden bars (laid at the base of the stacks) and slats (laid between the sheets). If storage is carried out at open area, it is necessary to ensure a slight slope of the sheets along the length for water drainage. In the immediate vicinity of the storage location, welding work and other operations that could damage the surface of the metal tile are prohibited.

Safety precautions

To avoid cuts from the sharp edges of metal tiles, personnel should wear protective gloves. In the process of lifting sheets onto the roof and installing them, it is necessary to use safety equipment. It is prohibited to carry out work at height in difficult weather conditions (when strong wind, rain, hail, snowfall).

Fasteners

To fix metal tile sheets, stainless steel self-tapping screws with a polymer gasket are used. Approximate consumption – 6-7 screws per 1 sq. m.

Tools for installing Grand Line metal tiles

Note! When cutting metal tiles, do not use angle grinders with abrasive wheels. Violation of this requirement can lead to intense corrosion of products (due to damage to the zinc layer and polymer coating).

Roofing pie structure

Modern roofs consist of several layers that perform different functions. The reliability and durability of the roof is ensured through the use of quality materials and proper installation of Grand Line metal tiles. If even one element is installed incorrectly, this will lead to a sharp reduction in the service life of the entire structure. According to the experience of Stroymet specialists, violation of installation requirements entails the accumulation of moisture in the insulation (due to this, its performance characteristics are significantly deteriorated), as well as the destruction of wooden and metal parts (due to rotting and corrosion).

1. Metal tiles.
2. Lathing.
3. Waterproofing.
4. Rafter leg.
5. Counter-lattice.
6. Vapor barrier membrane.
7. The first sheathing board.
8. Gutter bracket.
9. Frontal board.
10. Dropper.
11. Cornice strip.
12. Ventilation perforated tape.

Installation of thermal insulation

It is laid between the elements of the rafter system. To make it hold better, it needs to be cut with a small margin in width (1-1.5 cm). Installation must be organized in such a way as to completely eliminate the possibility of moisture entering the thermal insulation layer.

Installation of vapor-waterproofing films and membranes

Insulating materials are laid on both sides of the rafter structure: on the outside - waterproofing, on the inside - vapor barrier. Laying is done horizontally, from bottom to top, with an overlap of 15-20 cm.

Standard waterproofing is installed with 2 ventilation gaps of 3-5 cm:

• between the film and the heat-insulating layer;
• between the film and the roofing covering.

The superdiffusion membrane is installed with 1 gap (between the membrane and the roofing). A second gap is not needed, since the performance characteristics of the membrane allow it to be laid directly on top of the thermal insulation layer.

When installing a vapor barrier, a gap is required between the film and the inner lining. The overlap lines of adjacent film rows are sealed with sealing tape.

Installation of drainage system brackets

Brackets designed to fix the gutter are mounted in such a way as to ensure a slight slope of the structure towards the drainpipes. The vertical displacement parameters are determined by the formula: h = 0.005 x L (L is the distance between the outer hooks). The brackets are first numbered and marked taking into account the specified offset. Correct installation long brackets are only possible before laying the roofing. The design of short brackets allows you to attach them to the frontal board at any stage of roofing work.

Installation of sheathing

Lathing is usually made of wooden boards and bars. They must first be dried and treated with fire and bioprotective compounds.

A drip tray is installed at the bottom of the eaves overhang, designed to drain water and condensate into the gutter.

The first sheathing board should be thicker than the rest (the wave height of the metal tile is added to the standard thickness). The recommended distance between the bottom edge of the first board and the middle of the second is 30 cm, from the center to the center of the remaining elements of the sheathing is 35 cm.

A continuous sheathing is installed next to the ridge, in the valley area, in places where snow retainers are installed, around the perimeter of chimneys.

Installation of curtain rods

The cornice strip protects the front board from moisture and dirt. Using self-tapping screws, a ventilation tape is attached to the ends of the counter slats and the first board of the sheathing.

Installation of lower valley strips

The joints of adjacent slopes experience increased operational loads. Therefore, a continuous sheathing is installed in the valley area and a special seal is installed. Valley planks are mounted from bottom to top (starting from cornice strip) with an overlap of 30 cm.

Installation of a bypass around the perimeter of the chimney

The waterproofing film is placed on the surface of the pipe (an overlap of at least 5 cm) and secured with self-adhesive tape. Then, abutment strips are installed around the perimeter, which are inserted with the upper side into the grooves made in the outer wall of the pipe (recommended depth - 1.5 cm). After this, drainage is done (to the nearest valley strip or to the eaves overhang).

Before installing Grand Line metal tiles, a lifting structure is installed from wooden boards and bars, on which the sheets are fixed. After this, the metal tile along with the structure is carefully lifted onto the roof. During the lifting process, personnel must use safety equipment.

Installation of metal tiles Grand Line

To avoid damage to the sheets, work must be carried out in shoes with soft soles (sports or special), and you can only step into the deflection of the wave.

Laying is done from bottom to top. The lower edge of the sheets is carried 5 cm beyond the cornice and carefully aligned along the entire length of the slope.

Before installing Grand Line metal tiles, it is recommended to install a lightning rod.

• The sheets are attached to the deflections of the waves in places where they fit tightly to the sheathing boards.
• The metal tiles are attached to the first board of the sheathing through a wave, above the step.
• Sheets are attached to other boards under the steps (as close to them as possible).
• Along the edges of the slopes (at the gables), each step is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Through exits to the roof

To ensure the tightness of through exits, Stroymet specialists recommend using self-adhesive tape and silicone sealant.

Dormer windows

Installation is carried out in the following order:

• the bottom plank of the valley (extended below the pediment line of the dormer window structure);
• roofing;
• upper valley strip (it is recommended to install a special seal before installation).

Installation of end strips

The planks are mounted from bottom to top with an overlap of 10 cm (the recommended pitch between screws is 30-35 cm).

Installation of the upper valley strip

This is carried out after laying the universal seal. Allows you to hide possible unevenness of cut sheets at the junction of adjacent slopes.

Installation of junction strips

In places where metal tiles adjoin vertical elements, a polymer sealant must be installed to ensure effective waterproofing. The planks are fixed with roofing screws.

Ridge installation

The ridge strip is fixed through the wave with special ridge screws (they are longer than standard ones). A self-adhesive ventilation tape is pre-installed over the entire ridge. Plugs are installed at the ends of the ridge.

Installation of roof safety elements

In areas where snow guards, roof ladders, walkways, and fences will be installed, continuous sheathing must be installed.

Snow guards are installed at the bottom of the slope (but above the eaves overhang, otherwise they may not cope with the snow load).

The fasteners must fit not only into the sheathing, but also into the elements of the rafter system.

Eaves overhang trim

Plastic or corrugated sheets can be used as cladding materials.

In this case, it is necessary to ensure a good level of ventilation of the under-roof space (Vilpe valves are usually used for this).

According to Stroymet specialists, the optimal solution for lining eaves overhangs is vinyl soffits. Their installation is carried out using wooden blocks and additional elements (J-profile and J-chamfer). Perforated soffits help maintain comfortable air circulation in the under-roof space.

Installation options for brackets for drainage systems

The drip tray is used to remove condensate from the waterproofing film (connected to it with double-sided tape).

Ventilation tape - prevents clogging of the under-roof space and improves air exchange. Fixed with self-tapping screws.

Post-installation care

Upon completion of the installation of Grand Line metal tiles, all debris (metal scraps, shavings, remnants of consumables, etc.) must be removed from the roof surface. If micro-scratches are found on the sheets of Grand Line metal tiles, it is recommended to apply special paint to them. This will not only make the damage invisible, but will also avoid corrosion.

The procedure for installing drains

1. The gutter is marked for the installation of funnels.
2. Holes are cut the right size, funnels are being installed.
3. Plugs are attached to the ends of the gutter (rivets and silicone sealant can be used for additional waterproofing).
4. The gutters are installed on brackets and connected to each other using special connectors.
5. Brackets intended for fixing drainpipes are installed on the façade of the building in 1 m increments (at least 2 brackets per pipe).
6. The drainage riser is being installed (pipes, elbows, connecting pipes). The drain elbow should be located 20 cm from the ground.
7. Drainpipe connects to the funnel, then the structure is adjusted and all the brackets and clamps of the riser are fixed.

Coastal zone (less than 3 km from the seashore)

Solano e30 Granite®HDX Velur® Colorful Print dp® Polyester Zinc GL Granite drainage system Aluzinc drainage system

The terms of the company warranty for Grand Line metal tiles can be found upon purchase at Stroymet sales offices (detailed information is contained in the warranty cards).

For arranging the roofing part in Lately Metal tiles are increasingly being used. The material is supplied in the form of profiled sheets with a polymer coating. If you wish, you can install the metal tiles yourself. Step-by-step instructions will help you do this without serious mistakes.

Work on laying roofing fragments

The products are based on a steel sheet with a thickness of 0.45-0.55 mm. It is galvanized and has a special polymer-based coating. The cost of production may vary depending on the thickness of the metal and the type of protective layer.

List of advantages

First of all, it is necessary to highlight the following advantages:

• aesthetic appeal;
• weather resistance;
• affordable price;
• lightness of the main elements.

Note! Polymer coatings perform not only a protective, but also a decorative function, since their colors can vary over a fairly wide range.

Few disadvantages

Since the sheets have a small thickness with sufficient large sizes, the risk of damaging them during careless installation still exists. If all the rules are followed, the integrity of the elements is difficult to violate.

Another disadvantage is the appearance of a noise effect in heavy rain during operation. However, with proper soundproofing of the living space, this disadvantage is completely eliminated.

Related article:

Tools for installation work

It is necessary to prepare in advance a set of tools and additional devices for the work:

Note! It is forbidden to cut sheets using abrasive wheels, since high temperature exposure leads to the destruction of not only the polymer, but also the zinc layer.

Basic set of additional parts

IN step by step instructions for the installation of metal tiles, the main elements used in conjunction with the sheets should be mentioned. They are used depending on the roof configuration and operational features.

We suggest taking a look at the list of basic parts:

• a ridge is required to close the upper joint between two slopes;
• the end strip is necessary to decorate the edges on the side of the gable overhangs;
• the valley is installed in the places where the slopes combine;
• the cornice strip is attached to the side of the gutters;
• the junction strip is mounted in the presence of a pipe and other protruding structures;
• A snow retention element is needed to prevent snow from sliding off the roof.

Instructions for installing metal tiles: step-by-step execution of work

Loading and unloading of products can be done manually, but during the work a certain number of people must be involved. Usually 1 person is required per 1.5-2 linear meters of sheet length. That is, when unloading metal fragments with a length of 6 m, 3-4 people should be present.

Waterproofing device and fixation of control bars

If thermal insulation is laid between the rafters, then waterproofing material must be present in any case. It is attached with brackets to the load-bearing part of the roof. The canvases are spread across the rafters with an overlap of at least 15 cm along all slopes.

50x50 mm bars are nailed directly onto the rafters, providing a ventilation gap between the waterproofing and the roofing material. For fixation, nails of at least 90 mm are used.

Correct installation of sheathing under metal tiles

An edged board 25 mm thick and 100 mm wide is usually used as lathing, but the final choice will depend on the pitch of the rafters. The elements are attached to 50x50 mm bars using nails no less than 70 mm long. The distance between the boards depends on the wavelength of the metal tile used.

At the installation location ridge element It is recommended to install two planks close to each other. This will simplify the installation of the ridge on the metal tiles. The same should be done at the places where the valleys are attached. The bottom board of the sheathing should be higher than the others by the height of the wave. Usually the thickness of the lining is enough to compensate for the difference.

Installation of parts mounted to sheets

To protect the ventilated space under the roof from the penetration of moisture and street debris, metal tile eaves strips are installed. A ventilation tape must additionally be attached to the ends of the 50x50 mm bars.

When installing the valley, a universal seal is laid. The bottom edge of the element should be on the surface of the cornice board. When joining horizontally, an overlap of at least 30 cm is made.

Lining a brick chimney involves extending the waterproofing membrane by at least 50 mm. A groove is made in the pipe itself, the depth of which should be at least 15 mm. Water is discharged into the valley located in the immediate vicinity.

The process of laying and fastening sheets

All sheets must be aligned horizontally with an extension of 50 mm beyond the sheathing. When fixing metal elements, the following points should be adhered to:

• the self-tapping screw must be installed in the deflection of the wave, where the sheet is adjacent to the sheathing;
• fastening to the bottom board is carried out above the step directly through the wave;
• Along the edge of the slope, fasteners are screwed into each wave.

Installation of end strips and ridge

Elements for closing the end joints are mounted in the direction from the eaves overhang to the ridge. The overlap on adjacent planks should be 10 cm. The recommended spacing between fasteners is 35 cm.

As for the skate, it is fixed to the upper crest of every second wave. When building up elements, an overlap of at least 15 cm is left. Self-adhesive sealing tape is attached along the entire length.

Additional instructions for installing snow guards on metal tiles

The number of elements to hold snowdrifts on the roof is selected taking into account the geometry of the roof. In areas of heavy snow scraping, two rows of metal profiles can be installed. Pass-through type snow guards are the optimal solution for individual buildings. They are attached using long self-tapping screws to the sheathing itself through. The distance between fixation points usually ranges from 50-100 cm.

Today, metal tiles have become one of the most popular materials used as roofing. It has earned its popularity due to its durability, strength, reasonable cost and excellent appearance. In addition, installing it is quite simple if you know the basic rules that must be followed. At the same time, fastening metal tiles is one of the most important operations that determine the reliability of the entire structure in the future.

What is important to know before you start working

How to properly attach sheets of metal tiles to the sheathing

The sheathing itself is a structure made of wooden boards of the same size, which are mounted at the same distance from each other (it must match the pitch of the metal tiles used). The boards located under the ridge and at the eaves most often have a greater thickness without maintaining the required distance between the boards on the slope.

In the process of fastening sheets of material to the roof slope, it is necessary to tighten the screws along a line located 10-15 mm below the stamping line between the ridges. In the case when the sheathing was done correctly, in full accordance with all the diagrams and instructions, the screws can be screwed into any regular place, since there must be a board there. To be more confident that everything is being done correctly, you should watch a video on the topic (even if the work will not be done on your own).

The metal on the boards is always laid without a technological gap, so the sheets of metal tiles will be guaranteed to be pressed against the sheathing with high reliability without deformation of the material. It is worth noting that the fastenings will not be noticeable, since they will always be in the shadow of such a “step”.

Two ways to join sheets

During installation, it is possible to use several effective methods for joining individual sheets of metal tiles: in waves or in rows. In the first case, the problems of protecting the plane of the roofing material from side winds and the uniformity and “integrity” of the appearance of the slope are solved. In this case, all self-tapping screws must be tightened in each of the rows below the stamping line, in the sector from the ridge to the outer edge of the top sheet.

If joining is carried out in rows, it is done on boards according to the installation instructions step lathing(fasteners are placed on the boards in each wave). When it comes to the entire area of ​​the slope, the fastenings are distributed evenly. In this case, the movement is carried out from the cornice to the ridge, and the fixation is made in every third wave with a shift in any direction by one wave of the sheet, when the transition to the next row occurs to continue the fastening.

How to attach sheets along the eaves line

The formation of a cornice assembly with a sheet protruding beyond the edge (about 50 mm) is used especially often today. In this case, all the water after rain falls directly into the gutter, so the wooden structural elements remain reliably protected from splashes, which has a significant impact on their durability. In this case, according to the instructions, the self-tapping screws must be screwed in through one wave 70 mm above the stamping line.

It is important to consider: to prevent the lower waves from sagging down, with this method, it is necessary to attach it to a board that is 15-20 mm thicker than the others. The distance between the centers of the first step and cornice boards, with a width of 100 mm, will be 250 mm.

This unit can also be formed so that the standard cut of the metal tile is located on top of the eaves board (in this case, rainwater will flow into the gutters directly from it). Most often, this method is resorted to in some difficult situations for roofers, when it comes to stepped eaves or violations of the roof geometry in a given area.

Approach to the ridge: fastening metal tiles

At the top point of the structure, the sheathing always ends with a ridge support board. When performing this operation, it is necessary to install an additional ridge board, thus providing a gap of 80 mm between the same boards of adjacent slopes, which plays an important role in organizing roof ventilation.

An effective way to place the ridge strip on the end part of the entire structure on top of the planks is to install a support board, which is 15-20 mm thicker in comparison with other sheathing materials used for roofing.

This is the only way to avoid “subsidence” of the roof ridge in relation to the line of the end strip.

The spine (ridge) strip is fastened with self-tapping screws at the highest points of the roofing material. The distance between the fastenings is up to 0.8 m. It is worth noting that all fixing points will be located at an equal distance from the roof sheathing, so when tightening the screws, there will be no deformation of the ridge strip.

Fastening at the end of the ramp

First of all, it is necessary to secure sheets of metal tiles along the end lines of the roof slopes in each wave of material in regular places. Then, in order to secure the end strip, you need to fix it to the highest points of each of the sheets through one wave of material. The step between fastenings, as when approaching the ridge, is no more than 0.8 m.

In these places, the fasteners will be noticeable, so it is advisable to strictly maintain equal distances between them (it is best to make markings first).

When additional fastening with self-tapping screws is required

The main task in this case is to counteract wind loads. In this regard, it is necessary to ensure increased reliability of fastening in the following areas:

1. sheets of metal tiles to each other when using the fastening method:
   • by waves (1);
   • along the rows (2).
2. sheets to the sheathing:
   • along the cornice line (3);
   • along the ridge line (4).
3. along the end line (5) the sheets are fixed on the boards.

Installation instructions for metal tiles: from A to Z

This article will tell you how to install a metal tile roof. detailed instructions for the construction of the roof structure and laying the material itself.

For more detailed information, you can also watch the video - instructions for installing metal tiles.

The roof is one of the most important parts of the entire structure of the house. It lasts quite a long time, without requiring serious capital investments and complex maintenance during operation. The durability of the roof is primarily influenced by the absence of moisture accumulation in the form of steam and water, which is achieved by equipping high-quality ventilation and insulating the space under the roof, especially in the case of a roof with an attic and an insulated attic.

In the case of a cold attic, the roof structure most often already includes fairly high-quality ventilation, which nevertheless must be carried out in compliance with the technology, which is also described in the installation instructions for metal tiles - video.

Moisture contained in the surrounding air can cause the greatest damage to the structure. Daily and seasonal temperature changes cause the formation of condensation on metal tiles and other structural elements.

In winter, temperature differences in the insulation material can reach several tens of degrees, which also causes the deposition of moisture from the vapor contained in the air. A decrease in temperature leads to an increase in water vapor pressure from the premises into the space under the roof, while cold air retains less vapor than warm air.

Saturation of insulation with moisture leads to a decrease in its quality, in addition, accumulation of moisture causes corrosion of the roof structure. In addition to air, moisture can enter the insulation with melt and rain water. While watching the installation: metal tiles - video, in addition to protection from rain, you should also pay attention to protection from snow, which can fall horizontally in a strong wind.

It is advisable to carry out the construction of an attic metal tile roof in the following order:

1. Rafter system and intermediate sheathing;
2. Attic room;
3. Vapor barrier film;
4. Insulation material;
5. Counter-lattice for metal tiles and waterproofing;
6. Lathing;
7. Wind boards;
8. Installation of valleys;
9. Hooks for gutters;
10. Cornices;
11. Laying metal tiles;
12. Tees, skates and skate caps;
13. Ventilation pipes and outlets;
14. Sewage and antenna outputs;
15. Wind slats;
16. Walkways, stairs, snow guards;
17. Gutters and accessories;
18. Voroniki or water receivers;
19. Various pipes and components;
20. Cleaning and painting the coated surface.

Installation of waterproofing and rafter system

1 – vapor barrier layer; 2 – insulation material; 3 – rafters; 4 – intermediate sheathing; 5 – counter-lattice; 6 – waterproofing film; 7 – sheets of metal tiles; 11 – sheathing; 20 – ceiling

Do-it-yourself installation of metal tiles: the video recommends choosing an inter-rafter distance in the region of 60 to 90 cm. Increasing this distance requires the further use of sheathing boards of a larger cross-section. For the manufacture of rafters, timber is used, the minimum cross-section of which is 150x50 mm.

Manufacturers recommend laying insulation using all available space, while film manufacturers most often recommend creating a gap between the insulation and waterproofing, allowing the insulation to be ventilated, removing moisture.

Waterproofing and lathing:

3 – rafters; 4 – intermediate sheathing; 5 – counter-lattice; 6 – waterproofing layer; 11 – sheathing; 23 – initial lathing

Installation of metal tiles: video - instructions recommend doing the following:

1. An intermediate batten is placed on the rafters, the height of which is 50 mm;
2. The waterproofing is temporarily attached to it using a construction stapler, the final fastening is subsequently performed using counter-lattice slats, which allows you to significantly expand the choice of waterproofing films;
3. The waterproofing is rolled out parallel to the cornice in a horizontal direction. When laying the next layer, an overlap of at least 150-200 mm is observed if the roof slope is 30° or more, or 250 mm if the slope angle is 12-30°; in the case of hip roof ridges, the waterproofing overlap should be additionally increased by 50 millimeters;
4. The joints of the waterproofing film are placed under the counter-lattice, with an overlap of at least 100 mm, without the need to use connecting tape.

Important: you should carefully ensure that the waterproofing is not tightly secured; it is necessary to leave a uniform sag of 10-15 mm along the entire width of the film.

The film must be placed at a distance of at least 30 mm from the heat-insulating material; the film must not touch the insulation.

A significant disadvantage of this method is that air flows erode heat from the insulation along with moist vapor, so it is better to use waterproofing with a higher vapor permeability, but capable of withstanding significant water pressure.

This allows the waterproofing to also perform a windproofing function. In addition, there is no need to install an intermediate sheathing and leave a gap when laying waterproofing on top of the insulation material, since it will also serve as a wind barrier.

Useful: a more complex design option, designed for long-term exposure to moisture, is the use of different films to provide water and wind insulation.

Before installing metal tiles - instructions: the video also instructs you to check the squareness of the slopes of the rafter system. If the diagonals of the slope are unequal, they are leveled using additional spacers under the gable boards, and only after that the installation of waterproofing begins.

The counter-lattice is nailed down using galvanized nails, which allows you to finally secure the waterproofing film.

Checking slopes for squareness

The initial lathing, unlike the rest, should be laid under the top “step” of the metal tile.

Accordingly, its height should be selected so that it is greater than the others by the value of the step height, which is 18 mm. You should also ensure that it is straight and horizontally parallel to the cornice.

Before installing the sheathing under the metal tiles, you should mark the counter-lattice so that the distance between the boards making up the sheathing is 35 cm, the first distance is 28-30 cm. To make the sheathing, boards with a cross-section of 100x30 mm are used.

Important: if the pitch of the rafters exceeds 90 cm, the cross-section of the sheathing boards should be increased.

In those places where stove and ventilation pipes, skylights, hatches, etc. are installed, waterproofing should be beaded onto the walls of these exits.

Construction of a cold attic

1 – vapor barrier film; 2 – layer of insulation; 6 – waterproofing; 7 – sheets of metal tiles; 9 – roof ridge; 13 – sealant layer; 20 – ceiling

The instructions for installing metal tiles require compliance with the technology for laying waterproofing and sheathing, as well as the drainage system.

Laying waterproofing is mandatory in any situation, since even a slight penetration of heat from the under-roof space, especially in winter, causes condensation to form on the metal tiles. In a cold attic, waterproofing is laid under the metal tiles, leaving a gap of at least 50 mm.

This allows you to equalize the temperatures on the inner and outer sides of the metal tile covering, even in the case of small heat leaks from the premises. The greatest efficiency is achieved by arranging waterproofing from films with anti-condensation coatings.

Both when arranging an attic and an attic room, horizontal lining of the cornice is performed, which provides for the penetration of air flows through the gaps in the lining material. The total width of the gaps must be at least 30 mm.

The vapor barrier is laid on the ceiling and covered with a layer of insulation, which can be polystyrene foam, sprinkled with additional gravel, which protects against fire.

Vapor barrier and thermal insulation

Mansard roof design:

1 – vapor barrier layer; 2 – insulation material; 3 – rafters; 4 – intermediate sheathing; 5 – counter-lattice; 6 – waterproofing film; 7 – sheets of metal tiles; 9 – roof ridge; 10 – roof cornice; 11 – sheathing; 13 – sealant layer; 17 – cornice board; 20 – ceiling; 22 – ventilation grille; 23 – initial sheathing

Recommendations for installing metal tiles require the installation of a vapor barrier, which prevents the penetration of air containing wet vapors from interior spaces, and moisture from the heat-insulating material into the premises.

When laying vapor barriers, the upper panels should overlap the lower ones by at least 10 cm, and at the joints on horizontal planes - at least 20 cm. The tightness of the overlaps is ensured by fastening the overlaps with a special adhesive tape.

When using thermal insulation material, additional requirements are also imposed on ventilation:

• Good ventilation is ensured by air circulation. As already mentioned, when hemming the cornices, you should ensure the free movement of air flows along the entire perimeter, using elements such as perforated soffit or lining sheets laid with a gap;
• Under normal conditions, air moves from the eaves towards the ridge due to the heating of the roof by the rays of the sun and the heat of the interior, so it is necessary to ensure that air masses are removed from under the ridge. The ventilated ridge will be discussed below;
• In the case of long slopes (over 7-10 meters depending on the shape and design of the slope), the installation of additional ventilation outlets is required.

If the design of the slope does not provide for a ventilated ridge or other ventilation, installation of exits is mandatory;

• Minimum total area ventilation holes is 1 cm 2 per square meter of roof. In the case of ventilated ridges on rectangular slopes, exits should be installed at a height of at least 2/3 of the length of this slope, starting from the eaves, and in the absence of ventilation - at the maximum possible height;
• The number of ventilation outlets for wide slopes is calculated so that the air from the eaves moves towards them at an angle not exceeding 45°;
• Ventilation can also be improved by increasing the air gap in the space under the roof and installing a ventilation grille in it.

Moisture loss on the interior walls of premises is most often the result of the following errors:

• Poor quality or lack of vapor barrier, as a result of which moisture from the insulation gets inside the premises;
• Poor or insufficient thermal insulation, leaving internal walls cold, which leads to dew points on them.

Main nuances when installing insulation

• Before you begin installing the insulation, you must carefully read the instructions for the material, since preliminary testing of the material may be required;
• When laying insulation, there should be no gaps between the various elements. In the case of laying several layers of material, it is advisable to combine the joints or place them perpendicular to each other;
• It is necessary to carefully select the thickness of the thermal insulation material, since an incorrectly selected thickness can cause condensation to form on the vapor barrier or interior walls. In the middle zone, the recommended thickness of the insulation material is at least 150 mm and depends on factors such as the selected material, wall thickness and manufacturer’s recommendations;
• To prevent heat loss, slabs of thermal insulation material should be laid as tightly as possible to the ceiling and walls of the attic. In the case of multi-layer insulation, the plates are pressed against each other, and it is important to prevent their deformation;
• It is also very important to use dry insulation material during installation and not allow it to be exposed to precipitation during installation. For this purpose, the waterproofing film is usually first installed, especially in the case of large buildings, the construction of which stretches over a fairly long period of time;
• After completing the installation of each layer, the insulation material must rest for some time.

To insulate the under-roof space, three types of insulation are usually used:

1. Based on foam plastic, for example, extruded polystyrene foam, they have high water-repellent and waterproofing characteristics that are independent of humidity, as well as resistance to rotting and hardness.

The disadvantages of such materials are low operating temperature and susceptibility to combustion, which releases toxic gases in significant quantities. Fire is prevented by sprinkling with gravel, the layer of which is at least 5 cm, or by covering it with non-flammable insulating material;

• Fiberglass-based insulation materials are characterized by low density and lack of toxicity. At the same time, they are less fire and moisture resistant than basalt slabs, and under the influence of moisture they quickly lose their thermal insulation characteristics;
• The most durable and high-quality thermal insulation is ensured by the use of slabs based on basalt fiber. Such slabs have a low density, and the basalt fiber in them is located non-directionally, which provides protection against subsidence throughout its entire service life.

This material can withstand temperatures up to 1100°, while its operating temperature is 750°, which is 10 times higher than the value for polystyrene foam. Basalt slabs do not corrode and do not absorb moisture, which is the main enemy of thermal insulation, since its thermal conductivity is twenty times higher than the thermal conductivity of air.

In addition, basalt slabs are quite easy to cut with a knife, which allows you to install thermal insulation with the highest quality.

Useful: the pitch of the rafters may also depend on the size of the insulation, so it is advisable to select the material in advance.

Laying sheets of metal tiles

Let's finally consider how to properly install metal tiles:

• Installation of sheets begins in the lower corner of the slope, on the side that is located opposite the capillary groove. The groove is designed to eliminate the capillary effect that occurs when water rises through the capillary formed by sheets of metal tiles pressed against each other;
• It is most convenient to start installation in the lower left corner, with the next sheet covering the previous one.

In addition, the sheets can be stacked in such a way that the next sheet is slipped under the previous one, which increases the risk of damage to the coating of the sheets;

• Regardless of the complexity of the slope, the sheets are laid parallel to the cornice, which is aligned horizontally, and an overhang of about 40 mm should be left behind the cornice;
• The figure shows the stacking of sheets in the optimal order, but you can also stack them in a row, moving from the bottom to the top row;
• When talking about how to join sheets of metal tiles, you should keep in mind that up to 4 sheets, the thickness of which is 0.4-0.5 mm, can be joined at the corners. Therefore, the displacement of the corners of sheets superimposed in one row on top of each other increases if they are positioned horizontally.

In this regard, when laying metal tiles, you should perform a slight clockwise turn in order to arrange the right corners of the sheets of one row in a straight line;

• Fastening of adjacent sheets is carried out using one self-tapping screw in the upper part of the sheet, after which the sheets are aligned and final fastening is carried out;
• In order to facilitate installation and at the same time make the roof more attractive appearance, it is recommended to lay the longest sheets in the bottom row, aligning both the sheets themselves relative to the cornice and their waves relative to adjacent sheets.

Fastening metal tiles

Fastening sheets of metal tiles with a wind strip

The consumption of self-tapping screws is on average 6-8 pieces per 1 m2 or 3 pieces per linear meter on each side of the sheet.

Fastening is carried out in each transverse wave, observing a step of 350 mm, or in longitudinal waves through one (the step is about 366 mm) in the upper ridge.

Speaking about how to properly screw metal tiles, it should be clarified that the most suitable tool is a screwdriver or drill with a slowly rotating chuck.

The drill at the end of the self-tapping screw allows it to drill into metal, so metal tiles can even be attached to metal sheathing.

Important: the accuracy of fastening can be increased by pre-punching the hole.

In general, the following rules apply for fastening metal tiles:

• Fastening is always performed in the lower crest of the wave at the point of pressing against the sheathing, which avoids the occurrence of a lever between the fastening points and the application of force to the screw;
• The bottom sheets are fastened to the initial lathing in each wave above the step, since this edge experiences the greatest loads from the wind;
• Fastening to other battens should be done at the minimum possible distance from below to the step, since at this point the metal tile has the greatest rigidity, and these points themselves are most often located in the shadow of the step, which allows the heads of the screws not to be noticeable;
• Fastening from the side of the wind strip is carried out in each wave;
• All sheets should be attracted to each of the lathing, fastening to every second lathing is done through one wave;
• The best fit of adjacent sheets is achieved by shifting the fastening centers by 55 mm in the waves being connected in the direction of overlap for the top sheet and away from the overlap for the bottom sheet. This allows you to press bottom sheet to the top;
• At overlap points, the sheets are fastened through one wave. You can also make fastenings in each wave, ensuring the best fit of the top sheets.

To cut metal tiles, it is best to use electric cutting shears, but you can also use hand scissors or a circular saw with large pobedite teeth.

Important: cutting metal tiles with a grinder is unacceptable, since high temperatures cause heating, burning and peeling of the protective coating of the material.

The highest quality self-tapping screws for metal tiles are made from:

• Alloy steel with galvanization;
• Stainless steel with seal and powder coating.

Incorrect screwing of the self-tapping screw

Self-tapping screws are usually painted to match the color of the metal tiles, and then fired in a kiln. Screwing should be done strictly perpendicular to the battens.

Since sheets of metal tiles should be pulled to the lathing as tightly as possible, incorrect screwing and distortion of the self-tapping screw seal often lead to the appearance of through holes.

Important: under conditions of prolonged exposure to alkaline or acidic environments, self-tapping screws equipped with plastic caps should be used.

Installation of other elements

Ventilated ridge structure:

1 – vapor barrier layer; 3 – rafters; 4 – intermediate sheathing; 5 – counter-lattice; 6 – waterproofing film; 7 – sheets of metal tiles; 8 – roofing screws; 9 – roof ridge; 11 – sheathing; 24 – ridge plug

When installing a ventilated ridge of metal tiles, it should be taken into account that the waterproofing film must have a gap of at least 200 mm along its entire length. Vapor barrier, which is a denser material, is laid out over a continuous sheathing with a waterproofing overlap of at least 150 mm, which allows for free circulation of air from the space under the roof to the outside.

For this purpose, the profiled seal has holes, the small diameter of which prevents the penetration of snow or birds. The ridge is fastened through one wave in the upper ridge of the metal tile on both sides, closing at the end with plugs. The tightness of the overlap of the laid skates is ensured by closing its grooves on each other.

2 – insulation material, 4 – intermediate sheathing; 6 – waterproofing film; 7 – sheets of metal tiles; 13 – sealant layer; 14 – upper valley; 15 – lower valley; 21 – valley board

Another element used when laying metal tiles is the valley, the design of which is shown in the figure.

Why do you need a valley: metal tiles have an oblique cut, which is closed with the help of a valley. In addition, a universal seal is placed between the sheet of material and the lower valley. The valleys are located on a valley board, which is nailed to the intermediate sheathing or to the rafters if there is none. Waterproofing is rolled out along the valleys.

In conclusion, I would like to say that transporting and lifting metal tiles should be done carefully, avoiding damage to the coating of the material. After installation is completed, the surface should be cleaned of debris and shavings, and then painted over the scratches and cuts.

After three months of operation, it is necessary to further tighten the screws, since any fastening to the wood weakens over time. In addition, it is recommended to wash the metal tiles annually with a weak soapy solution.

Instructions for installing metal tiles with your own hands: recommendations on how to properly mount, join, screw sheets, roof valleys and correctly climb onto the roof, video from the experts

How to properly fasten metal tiles with self-tapping screws

Practicality and elegant appearance are what positively characterize metal tiles as a roofing material. A large selection of colors allows you to apply a variety of architectural solutions to your home. The sheet's protective coating guarantees durability and resistance to precipitation. It is very important to lay the roof competently and professionally, so the correct fastening of your metal tiles depends on knowing the basic rules for its construction. To do this, you need to take into account a number of factors, and we will try to comprehensively cover them from different angles.

Material properties and required tools for installation

In the production of metal tiles, a steel sheet is used, onto which a multi-layer coating is applied, ensuring its long-term operation and protection from aggressive precipitation. The coating consists of the following components:

1. Cold rolled steel with a thickness of 0.4 to 0.6 mm;
2. Galvanized coating containing zinc of at least 275 g∕m2;
3. Coating with a composition with anti-corrosion properties;
4. A primer layer that provides the best adhesion of subsequent layers;
5. Polymer coating that guarantees preservation of properties during operation in extreme weather conditions;
6. A layer of varnish that protects against mechanical stress during installation is applied to the inside of the metal tile.

The composition of the coating implies the final cost of the product and can vary widely. For example, a 25 micron polyester coating is the most budget option, while matte polyester 35 microns thick, costs significantly more. Plastisol with an application thickness of about 200 microns is considered more resistant to external influences. The polyurethane coating is pural, withstands large temperature changes and has a coating thickness of 50 microns. Whereas the composition of PVDF with acrylic washes itself well and is resistant to aggressive environments. The cold rolled steel sheet is galvanized, after which it is stamped and layers are applied to it protective coatings and a dye that provides a marketable appearance.

We will consider what tool and how to fasten metal tiles below in the text. In order not to damage the multi-layer protective layer of metal tiles, it is necessary to use equipment with a gentle effect when cutting and installing the material, namely:

• measuring instrument, which includes a certified tape measure and building level, as well as a set of marking markers and pencils;
• cutting tools, such as tin snips and low-speed saws, that do not lift up the edges of the sheet when cutting;
• a screwdriver with replaceable batteries and adjustable tightening force, equipped with attachments (bits) for the corresponding screws;
• a dash, designed for convenience when installing complex fastening units and consisting of four boards with a hinged fastening, with dimensions equal to the working width of the metal tile;
• drill with adjustable speed;
• hammer for joining and making bends;
• shoes with soft rubber soles so as not to deform the surface of the material and prevent slipping;
• roofing hexagonal screws at the rate of 8 - 10 pieces per m2 and during installation protective elements roofings 3 pieces per linear meter.

The most important thing is to adjust the screwdriver to the force of screwing in the screw. The scheme for fastening the metal tiles with self-tapping screws depends on this, and they need to be screwed in so as not to wrinkle the sheet during installation. The presence of knots or chips at the installation site requires constant visual monitoring of the quality of fasteners. We understand what metal tiles are and how to fasten them, now let’s move on directly to installation.

Before starting roof installation

When starting to lay the roofing, you need to develop a scheme for fastening the metal tiles with self-tapping screws and subsequently adjust it as the roof is installed. In addition to a safe, serviceable tool, you need to work in special clothing and gloves to avoid injuries during work. Do not begin installation in windy weather, since in gusty, side winds, loose sheets can be blown down. This will not only lead to deformation of the sheet itself, but is also dangerous for others. Be sure to secure the ladders that will be used to climb. Be careful not to scratch the back side of the metal tiles on which the protective coating is applied. Make a supply of aerosol paint to match the color of the roof in case of damage to the front side of the material.

Before attaching metal tiles, you must ensure that there are no flaws on the roof slopes. Eliminate defects in a timely manner so that installation proceeds quickly and efficiently. Fastening metal tiles with self-tapping screws should be carried out by an experienced employee equipped with an adjusted tool. To ensure that the fastener is not noticeable, its hex heads and pressure washers should be painted in the color of the sheets. If shavings get on the metal tiles, it is necessary to remove them with a soft brush. A screwed-in self-tapping screw may get caught in a knot; in order to tighten it to the rubber gasket seal, workers must be provided with keys of the appropriate size. Monitor the quality of the self-tapping screws and rubber sealing washers, which must be made of frost-resistant rubber.

Metal tile installation diagram

The scheme for fastening the sheets refers to the order in which they are laid on the slopes and the subsequent fastening of the metal tiles to the sheathing. It is necessary to calculate the pitch of the sheathing so that it coincides with the pitch of the material itself. With a smaller gap, the sheathing is laid at the ridge and in the area of ​​the cornice, where increased strength is required, and this is where the metal tiles are attached more carefully. The sheets should be screwed along a line spaced 10 mm from the figured stamping of the material, that is, at the point of greatest contact of the sheet to the sheathing. Let's return to how to lay out the coating and how to properly attach metal tiles. The installation procedure is as follows:

• first you need to install the cornice strips in increments of 35 cm, each subsequent one overlaps the previous strip by 10 cm;
• The bottom sheet is laid first along the eaves with an overhang of 4 cm and is aligned along the edge of the roof with an offset of about 30 mm;
• then the top sheet is mounted, overlapping the bottom sheet by 5-7 cm; if it fits the ridge, then you need to take care of waterproofing to avoid leaks;
• then the next bottom sheet is placed, overlapping the outer wave of the previous one until the anti-capillary groove is closed;
• after this, the next top covering element is installed;
• in order to perfectly align the roof relative to the side edges and eaves, use a block of four sheets, fastened together, it is leveled, it is only necessary to partially secure the edge of the structure, leaving freedom of movement;
• when the slope is different from rectangular, then first you need to set the central sheet, and mount the subsequent sheets from it on both sides;
• in the case of a complex roof structure, you can use a dash for marking and cutting, which, with a working width of 110 cm, allows you to accurately set the cutting angles of metal tiles;
• the sheet adjacent to the ridge is waterproofed, and the ridge structure is fastened taking into account the ventilation gap.

It must be remembered that metal tiles need to be leveled both along the eaves and along the waves of adjacent sheets.

You need to understand how to properly screw metal tiles onto different areas of the roof. The procedure for correct joining of elements when covering areas with a complex configuration is also important.

Installation and joining of the roof

Various architectural solutions make roofs not only beautiful, but often quite difficult to manufacture. So, at joints in difficult areas, the sheets have to be twisted to obtain the desired result. In this case, the rule of overlap of roof elements should not be violated, and the metal tiles must be leveled along the eaves.

The metal tiles are fastened to the sheathing using roofing screws, which have a sealing washer and a rubber gasket. Rubber is needed to prevent moisture from entering the under-roof space through the drilled mounting hole. The galvanized and painted self-tapping screw has a hex head, with which it can be screwed in with a screwdriver. The self-tapping tip and threaded notch make it easy to drill through sheet metal and secure it in the sheathing, pulling the metal tiles to it. Basically, self-tapping screws are used for roofing installation, the length of which allows them to penetrate the wood by at least 2 cm.

The screws should be screwed in strictly vertically, in the place of best contact with the sheathing, so that the rubber washer is guaranteed to seal the fastening point. If the fastener gets into dense wood, then you need to manually use a wrench to achieve a high-quality seal that prevents moisture from leaking. The sheets can be joined together in the protruding part of the wave, ensuring high-quality fastening at the junction.

We have collected information on how to fasten metal tiles with self-tapping screws into a single overview and have analyzed the installation diagrams for constructing a roof. By following these tips and using high-quality building materials, you can easily put a roof on your house. Proper fastening of the covering elements with self-tapping screws will guarantee quality and durability and will bring joy to you and your family.

Installation of metal roofing

Metal tiles are the most popular roofing material, successfully combining not only reliability and durability, but also the aesthetic perception of the structure. Installation of metal roofing requires strict adherence to work technology.

When the metal tile roof installation is complete, remove construction debris with a soft brush and treat cut areas and scratches with spray paint.

From workwear you will need:

The tools you need to prepare are:

• screwdriver;
• construction stapler;
• hammer;
• tape measure with rag tape;
• jigsaw;
• a hacksaw with fine teeth;
• metal scissors, manual or electric nibblers;
• hand-held circular saw with carbide cutting elements.

Attention: when working with metal tiles, it is prohibited to use a grinder or any cutting devices with abrasive cutting elements, as this leads to burnout and peeling of the protective polymer layer of the sheet!

Otherwise, you not only reduce the performance properties of the roof, but also automatically lose the warranty of the metal tile manufacturer.

Taking measurements and calculating materials

A metal tile sheet has an upper and lower cut, that is, the distance from the corresponding edge of the sheet to the crest of the wave, usually equal to 50 mm. The area of ​​the waves without taking into account the upper and lower cuts is usable area leaf. To calculate the number of rows of horizontal sheets required, you need greatest length divide the slope along the ridge or along the eaves by the usable width of the sheet, taking into account the overlap in one wave. The number of sheets per row can be calculated by dividing the total length of sheets in the row by the usable length of the sheet. The total length of the sheets is equal to the length of the slope from the ridge to the eaves, taking into account the overhang of 40-50mm. At the junctions of slopes, valleys, and inclined ridges, the length should completely cover all slopes.

When choosing the length of the sheet, keep in mind that at short lengths the coefficient of expansion of the metal is less, and accordingly, the tension of the metal and the likelihood of the screws breaking off, the holes becoming loose and the metal being destroyed in these places are less. The length of a metal tile sheet recommended by experts is 4-4.5 m.

To minimize waste, before purchasing metal tiles, make a drawing of the roof, lay out the sheets according to the resulting diagram, taking into account the joints so that the waves form a single sheet over the entire roof area.

When calculating the number of waterproofing rolls, the total roof area is divided by the covered area of ​​the roll, taking into account overlaps of 15-20 cm.

When calculating the amount of insulation, the total roof area is multiplied by 0.2 m (recommended insulation thickness).

When calculating additional elements, it is necessary to take into account the horizontal overlap of 10 cm (for the lower valley - 30 cm).

The number of self-tapping screws is planned based on the consumption rate of 8 pieces per 1m2 of metal tiles/1 linear meter of additional elements.

All calculations are rounded up.

Rules for the construction of a rafter system

Scheme of a hanging rafter system for a gable roof.

When planning the rafter system, take into account the features of the roof shape, wind and snow load. For a metal roof, experts recommend a distance between rafters of 600-900mm. Wood species with a moisture content of no more than 18-22% are suitable as materials for rafters. All wooden elements of the rafter structure, including sheathing and additional reinforcing strips, must first be treated with fire-fighting and antiseptic compounds.

If it is planned to insulate the roof, to create additional inter-rafter ventilation, holes with a diameter of up to 2.5 cm are drilled in the upper side part of the rafters in increments of 30 cm.

An old rafter structure can also form the basis for a metal roof.

Before erecting the rafter system (including if the installation of metal tiles will be carried out on an old roof), make sure that the roof is square by comparing the lengths of the slopes along the diagonals, check the horizontality of the cornice, ridge, and kinks. Installation of rafters is carried out taking into account the identified errors.

The minimum slope of a metal roof according to building codes is 14°. In snowy winters and rainy climates, the recommended tilt angle is 20-30°.

Installation of cornice and front boards, filing of cornice

Typically, roof installation requires the presence of either a cornice or a fascia board.

Options for the eaves of a tiled roof.

The cornice board enhances the rigidity of the structure and is attached to special grooves cut into the rafters to avoid increasing the height of the rafter structure. If the installation of the drain involves the use of long hooks, it is necessary to cut out the corresponding grooves for them on the eaves board. The installation of long hooks is carried out before installing the metal tiles. Short hooks are usually used if the installation of metal tiles is completed. They are attached to the front board, which is nailed to the end of the rafters. This element performs reinforcing and protective functions.

To hem the cornice, a block is placed horizontally on the wall at the level of the lower edge of the front board. Then, between it and the front board, a sheathing is made in the form of transverse bars, onto which a lining material is then attached (corrugated sheeting, siding or soffits matching the color and material of the metal tile).

The basic rule when filing cornices is to ensure free flow of air into the under-roof space due to ventilation gaps. The recommended ratio of the total areas of ventilation gaps and the roof is 1/100, the distribution of gaps along the roof is carried out in proportion to the areas of its individual elements.

Ventilation gaps are provided either between the sheathing panels (with the exception of soffits that have perforations), or one continuous gap is left between the wall and the outer sheathing panel. To prevent birds and insects from entering the under-roof space, the gaps are closed with a grid with small cells.

Laying waterproofing

When laying waterproofing, it is necessary to ensure unhindered through passage of air flows.

The waterproofing film protects the under-roof space from the penetration of moisture and dirt, while being vapor permeable. It is prohibited to use bitumen-based waterproofing material when installing a metal tile roof!

When laying waterproofing, it is necessary to ensure unhindered through passage of air flows from the eaves to the ventilated seal of the roof ridge due to ventilation gaps between the metal tiles and waterproofing, as well as between the waterproofing and insulation (double-circuit ventilation).

The waterproofing film is rolled out, without turning over, from the eaves to the ridge with an overlap (at least 150 mm, and at the junction of the slopes - at least 200 mm) and fastened with a construction stapler. Overlapping areas must be insulated with a special adhesive tape. Please ensure that the overlaps occur on the wooden elements of the rafter structure and sheathing.

To prevent tension and breakage of the film due to a decrease in its size due to the cold and the “play” of the rafters, it is necessary to lay it with a sag of 10-20 mm along the edge of the rafter legs. If you use anti-condensation or classic type waterproofing, you need double-circuit ventilation with a gap of 30-50 mm in each circuit. When using superdiffusion membranes, single-circuit ventilation is sufficient - between the membrane and the metal tile.

The waterproofing layer should protrude 200mm beyond the wall line and cover the end boards at the ends. The overlap on the walls of roof elements such as stoves and ventilation pipes should be at least 50mm with an additional layer laid around.

Installation of sheathing, installation of the lower valley

Layout of the valley strip.

For a roof with an inter-rafter pitch of 900mm, boards with a section of 30x100mm are suitable for lathing, and with a pitch of 600mm, boards with a section of 25x100mm are suitable. If the distance between the rafters increases when installing the sheathing, transverse boards of a larger section are used - 50x100mm or 50x150mm. The cross-sectional height of the lowest (initial) lathing plank should be greater than the height of the remaining planks by the height of the sheet wave, since the top of the metal tile step rests on it. It is attached strictly parallel to the cornice. The second lathing is attached with a pitch of 280mm, and all subsequent ones with a pitch of 350mm.

The place where the ridge strip is attached must be reinforced with two additional strips with a pitch of 50mm. The thickness of the ridge board should be 10-15mm greater than the thickness of the other sheathing boards to create a ventilation gap.

A continuous sheathing is made around the protruding roof elements. At the junction of the slopes (valleys), the sheathing should also be continuous at a distance of 300 mm from the axis in both directions and coincide in level with the rest of the sheathing. Waterproofing is laid along the gutter formed by the boards, on top of which the valley is secured with self-tapping screws at a distance of 300 mm from each other. The overlap at the junction of the valleys should not be less than 100mm. The lower valley should extend onto the cornice board.

Installation of metal tile sheets

Installation diagram of metal tile sheets.

Lifting sheets of metal tiles onto the roof is carried out using ropes along two guide beams fastened with transverse boards. During the installation process, walking on metal tiles is allowed only in places where the wave deflects and only along the contour of the sheathing.

Each sheet of metal tile has a capillary groove for water drainage, which is covered with the next sheet during installation. Usually they start laying from the side where the sheet does not need to be cut. Sheets can be mounted from left to right, or vice versa, overlapping in one wave, closing the capillary groove on the left side of the sheet.

Basic rules for laying metal tiles

1. Docking “along the waves” to protect the roof from side winds. The screws at the joining point are screwed into the crest of the joining wave just below the stamping line. First of all, the longitudinal joints are tightened.
2. Docking “in rows” with fastening with self-tapping screws in each wave.
3. Regardless of how geometrically complex the roof is, all sheets of metal tiles are aligned strictly along the eaves line with an overhang of 45-50mm. The sheets to be joined should first be connected to each other, only slightly “grabbing” the upper edge of each to the sheathing with one self-tapping screw. Only after making sure that the rectangle is correctly placed on the slope should you screw in the remaining screws and finally secure the joined row.

Installation of counter-lattice and sheathing.

To fasten metal tiles, use roofing screws with EPDM gasket and a protective layer to match the roof. standard sizes 4.8x28mm. Screwing is carried out in places where the sheet adheres to the sheathing into the base of the wave perpendicular to the sheathing until the gasket is slightly compressed; steel shavings are removed with a brush with soft bristles.

The sheets are attached to the initial lathing strip above the step through a wave, and to subsequent battens - through a longitudinal wave into every second transverse wave as close as possible to the stamping line. Sheets from the side of the end board are attached to each wave. The ridge strip is attached to the metal tile at the crest of the wave with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 800 mm.

The thickening point formed when four sheets are joined is removed either by cutting off part of the corner or by slightly straightening the capillary groove.

Installation of the end strip, upper valley and abutment strips

End plate fastening diagram.

The waterproofing layer is laid on the end board, and its edge is covered with an end strip, which is attached to the end board with self-tapping screws from the cornice to the ridge with a pitch of 350 mm and an overlap of 100 mm.

The end strip is attached in such a way as to overlap the upper crest of the wave. If during the installation process it turns out that the bottom ridge falls on the pediment, you can bend the edges of the sheet upward.

When installing the upper valley, follow the basic rule - the screws are screwed in in such a way as to prevent them from passing through the middle of the lower valley. Otherwise, the waterproofing layer will be damaged. A self-expanding sealant is laid between the valley (junction strips) and the metal tile.

Installation of ridge strip and snow guard

The waterproofing layer along the entire ridge space must have a gap of at least 50mm for unhindered evaporation of moisture. A sealant must be placed in places where there are pinhole ventilation holes. The ridge strip should be mounted with an overlap of 100 mm from the end onto the end strips with an edge protrusion of 20-30 mm by attaching it to the upper ridge and the sheathing through the wave. To prevent snow from blowing under the ridge, an aeroroller is installed between the sheets of metal tiles and the ridge strip, and the ends are closed with plugs.

To prevent avalanche-like snow from the roof, it is necessary to install a snow retainer. Even at the stage of installing the sheathing, provide supports in the intended places of fastening of this element by placing special bars under the crest of the wave. The snow retainer is installed parallel to the cornice with a metal tile sheet fastened under the second transverse step.

Metal roofing also needs to be grounded to ensure the safety of the entire structure.

When the metal tile roof installation is complete, remove construction debris with a soft brush and treat cut areas and scratches with spray paint. After 3 months of roof operation, check the condition of the screws and, if necessary, tighten any loose ones.

The question of how to properly lay metal tiles is asked by most developers who decide to choose this practical, modern and durable material. This article will tell you how to install metal tiles - the instructions will tell you about all the subtleties and nuances of performing this work.

The article also talks about the device roofing pie materials, tools and much more necessary for roof construction.

The “metal tile – installation – instructions” diagram used in the article can be useful both for developers and for the builders themselves, both when building a house and when performing work such as erecting a canopy from metal tiles.

Installation technology

Before you begin installing metal tiles, you can watch or download a video on the Internet about installing metal tiles, but first of all, let’s look at the diagram and basic principles of constructing the so-called roofing pie for metal tiles.

This name refers to the large number of layers, each of which performs a specific function.

Subject to the correct selection of materials, as well as calculations and installation, it is this design that makes it possible to make a metal tile roof the most reliable and durable.

Regardless of how the instructions are applied - the installation of metal tiles is planned to be carried out with one’s own hands or with the invitation of hired workers, one should be aware that the roof is a rather complex structure, during the construction of which it is important to strictly follow the manufacturers’ recommendations for installing metal tile coverings, as well as for everyone building regulations and standards.

Let us remind you once again that it is recommended to watch the video - installation of metal tiles, and the entire process of installation itself should be constantly kept under control, since poor quality work may not be revealed immediately, but during operation.

For example, poor-quality installation of hydro- and vapor barriers can lead to the accumulation of condensation, a decrease in the quality of thermal insulation and rotting of wooden structural elements.

Important: a reliable and durable roof can only be built in full compliance with all the rules that the instructions include: installation of metal tiles.

1. Rafter system;
2. Counter rails;
3. Waterproofing film;
4. Vertical sheathing bars;
5. Starting beam for horizontal sheathing;
6. Horizontal sheathing bars;
7. Additional lathing;
8. Wind board;
9. Bracket for gutter;
10. Cornice strip;
11. Metal tiles;
12. Roof ridge;
13. Ridge seal;
14. Dormer window;
15. Thermal insulation material;
16. Vapor barrier material;
17. Attic filing.

The figure shows a diagram of the installation of metal tiles, in accordance with which the work described below is carried out.

But first you need to figure out what tools will be used to install the coating.

Tools and equipment

This instruction: metal tiles - installation describes the process of installing metal tiles using the example of the Monterrey brand and similar ones; installation of other brands is generally carried out according to the same principle; the distinctive features will be discussed at the end of the article.

To complete the work you will need the following tools and materials:

• Tool for cutting sheets of metal tiles;
• Screwdriver, preferably battery-powered;
• Medium sized hammer;
• Rule or even long strip;
• Marker.

In order to cut sheets, manufacturers advise using the following tools:

1. Manual or electric scissors for metal;
2. Hacksaw or electric reciprocating saw with the necessary blades;
3. Electric cutting shears;
4. Electric jigsaw;
5. Circular saw with teeth made of pobedit.

After cutting the sheets is completed, various sawdust should be removed, which, when rusting, can lead to damage to the polymer coating of the metal tile.

Important: when cutting sheets of metal tiles, you should not use a tool with abrasive cutting wheels, such as a grinder.

In this case, the impact high temperatures will lead to the destruction of the zinc and polymer coating of the material, which will subsequently cause a corrosion process, as a result of which rusty smudges will appear on the roof.

Installation instructions

Useful: Although laying long sheets reduces the number of joints, the installation process itself is much more complicated than laying shorter sheets with overlap.

• Roof freezing;
• Ice formation on metal tiles;
• Rotting of sheathing and rafters;
• Destruction of interior decoration.

To avoid these unpleasant consequences, the rules for installing metal tiles recommend using heat-insulating material of the required thickness.

In addition, when installing metal tiles, it is imperative to protect the insulation material on the metal tile side with a waterproofing film, and on the interior side with a vapor barrier film.

The removal of wet vapors from the space under the roof is ensured by the creation of natural ventilation, which is the free movement of air masses from the eaves to the roof ridge.

To do this, a gap of approximately 40 mm should be left between the waterproofing film and the metal tile using lathing. When hemming the eaves overhangs, you should leave gaps on them, and also clear the special holes in the rubber seal on the ridge.

Useful: in the case of Yutavek and Tyvek films, the thermal insulation can be installed without a gap.

The sheathing is made from beams or edged boards treated with antiseptic preparations. The recommended cross-section of beams is 50x50 mm, boards - 100x32 mm.
Installation of the sheathing is carried out in several stages:

• On the rafters, beams are nailed on top of the waterproofing film, falling from the ridge to the eaves. Sheathing boards are attached to these beams;
• The first sheathing board from the eaves should be approximately 10-15 mm thicker than the others. Next, you need to maintain the correct distance between the boards;
• In the case of Monterrey metal tiles, the installation instructions: metal tiles require installing a second board with a distance of 300 mm from the bottom edge of the first (measurement is taken from the middle of the second nailed board), for Maxi metal tiles given distance is 350 mm;
• The distances between the axes of the sheathing boards, which are nailed down later, are for different brands of metal tiles: for Monterrey and Supermonterrey - 350 mm, for Maxi - 400 mm.

Important: if the rafter pitch exceeds 1000 mm, thicker boards should be used for lathing.

• Continuous sheathing is performed in places such as valleys, chimneys, the perimeter of dormer and dormer windows. On both sides of the ridge, two additional edged boards, while the end strips rise to the height of the metal tile profile above the ordinary sheathing.



Installation of metal tiles. Endova

Before the metal tiles are laid, the instructions provide for attaching the bottom valley strip using self-tapping screws to the continuous sheathing along the internal joint of the slopes.
If it is necessary to join the planks, an overlap of 100-150 mm is made. Next, marking and, if necessary, cutting of metal tile sheets is carried out.
Installation of metal tiles is carried out from the bottom up (see figure). The top joint of the sheets rarely has an attractive appearance, so they install decorative element, for example, the top strip of the valley.

Important: the weakest point of the roof is the joints. In order to avoid subsequent roof repairs, their installation instructions: metal tiles require special care.

1. 

   The hermetically sealed connection of the metal tile roof to the walls on the slopes and chimneys is carried out using an internal apron made using the lower connection strips:

   • The strip is applied to the pipe wall, after which its upper edge is marked on the brick;
   • Using a grinder, a groove is made along the drawn line, after which the dust should be removed and the area should be washed with water;
   • Installation of the internal apron begins on the pipe wall that is located at the bottom of the slope, that is, on the eaves side. The plank is cut in place, installed and secured using self-tapping screws;
   • The apron is installed in the same way on all remaining sides of the pipe;
   • If it is necessary to join the planks, an overlap of approximately 150 mm is made. The edge of the apron inserted into the groove should be treated with silicone sealant, preferably colorless;
   • Next, a tie is inserted into the space under the lower edge of the inner apron - a flat sheet that allows water to drain. The tie can be directed either into the valley or down to the eaves. A bead is made along the edges of the tie using a hammer and pliers;
   • Sheets of metal tiles are mounted on top of the tie and apron;
   • After laying the roofing around the chimney pipe, the production and installation of the outer apron begins, made using the upper junction strips;
   • The upper strips are installed similarly to the lower ones, but the upper edge is not inserted into the groove, but is attached directly to the wall.

   Important: when moving on a metal tile roof, all necessary safety precautions should be observed.

   Metal tiles: installation instructions prescribes wearing comfortable and soft non-slip shoes and stepping only into wave troughs. In addition, you should use an installer's belt and a safety cord.

   
   • The first sheet is aligned along the end of the roof and secured at the top using one self-tapping screw.
     In this case, a projection (metal tile canopy) of about 40 mm should be made near the cornice. The second sheet is laid with an overlap of the first when installed from right to left, or its edge is placed under the first sheet in the case of installation from left to right.
   • The sheets are fastened to each other using self-tapping screws at the top point of the overlap; however, they should not be screwed to the sheathing under the metal tiles - it should be possible to freely move the sheets relative to the self-tapping screw holding the first sheet in the ridge part.
   • Laying the third sheet is carried out similarly to the second, after which the sheets fastened together are aligned parallel to the cornice.
     If it is necessary to join the sheets along the length, you should follow the order of their laying shown in Figure B.

   Important: if available protective film on metal tiles, it must be removed before installation.

   

   Important: when purchasing metal tiles, you need to find out the warranty conditions for the material.

   Many manufacturers provide a guarantee for metal tiles only if they use a specific brand of screws, so it is recommended to purchase screws from the supplier along with the material itself.

   

   1. 

      When installing ventilation elements, the first step is to draw a hole in the metal tile and cut it according to the template.
      Next, silicone is applied to the passage element, after which the structure is attached to the metal tile using self-tapping screws.
      The ventilation outlet is inserted into the passage element, leveled vertically using a level and also secured with self-tapping screws.
      To connect the hood and the indoor air duct, a corrugated pipe is used, passed through the roof pie, after which the passage is sealed with adhesive tape.

   2. To install stairs, brackets are used in the amount of 4 pieces per section.
      They are placed on the staircase posts and secured with M8x40 bolts.
      The brackets are fastened to the roof surface in wave deflections using Ш8x60 bolts, and their junction points are sealed.
      Along the length of the roof slope, the staircase is assembled in sections, the topmost of which is attached to the ridge beam with special brackets.

      

   

   The vertical fencing grid, which ensures safety when performing roof maintenance, is installed on a continuous sheathing at the level of the eaves.
   The fence supports are installed in the deflections of the metal tile waves, the brackets are attached to the support beam using galvanized M8x60 screws using a rubber gasket.
   The distance between supports should be approximately 900 mm. The supports are adjusted relative to the slope of the roof and fixed, after which the fence itself is hung on them.
   At the junction points of the supports and sections of the fence, holes are drilled (12 mm in the lower crossbar, 12 mm in the upper).
   Through these holes, the supports are connected to the sections using appropriate bolts. After installation is complete, all connection points should be sealed.

   

   To service antennas, chimneys and other elements, transition bridges are installed on the roof, for the installation of which a continuous sheathing is also carried out in advance.
   The fastening of the bridge support brackets is carried out in the same way as the roof fencing; the inclination is adjusted by selecting the holes in the fastening brackets.
   Fixation is carried out using M8x20 bolts, located two on each side of the platform.

   

   Tubular snow retainers are installed to protect against avalanches of snow cover from the roof; the sheathing is also continuous.
   The brackets are attached in increments of about 100 cm; the end brackets are installed approximately 50 cm from the end of the snow guard.
   The snow guard should also be removed 35 cm from the roof eaves. If the length of the slope exceeds 8 m, an intermediate row of snow retainers is installed.

   Important: if there are skylights, snow guards must also be installed above them.

Installation of other types of metal tiles

The general procedure for constructing a metal tile roof was discussed above; we will consider the main nuances when installing certain types of material.

The figure shows that the pitch of the sheathing when installing metal tiles of the “Cascade” brand differs from the pitch for the “Elite” and “Monterrey” brands. These differences are due to differences in the dimensions of the material profile.

When installing metal tiles of the Andalusia brand, which has a Z-shaped lock, you should also take into account its nuances. The locking part of this brand has perforations, which simplifies the positioning of the sheet on the roof and its fastening.

In this case, the fasteners are hidden, which allows you to make the joints of the sheets almost invisible.

When purchasing metal tiles, you should find out various details about a specific type of material, and when performing installation, it is important to follow the rules and requirements described in this manual. This will allow you to build a reliable and durable metal tile roof.

Metal tiles are an engineered “fusion” of steel strength and the aesthetics of traditional ceramic roofing. Lightweight profiled sheets have virtually no effect on the weight of the structure and delight installers with their convenient dimensions.

A sure plus in the collection of material priorities is the ability to independently carry out the entire cycle of roofing work without the paid participation of builders. Just first you need to find out how to construct a metal tile roof with your own hands, and learn about the rules and subtleties of the process of its construction.

Wavy metal sheets The currently popular coatings are equipped with double protection against atmospheric attacks. Steel profiled blanks are first immersed in containers with hot zinc, due to which an anti-corrosion film is formed on the surface. Then the outer side of the material is covered with a colored polymer shell, which performs aesthetic and protective functions.

However, both degrees of protection will not be able to withstand the attacks of precipitation and household fumes if the roofing pie is constructed with violations and errors. Condensation will begin to accumulate in the space under the coating, which will slowly but surely reach the metal. The insulation will become moist and lose its insulating properties. The wooden elements will get wet and rot as a result.

Rely completely on a light weight and an impressive area of ​​sheets of material is also not worth it: the rafter system must be strong enough, and the sheathing must be such that each element is fixed at the required number of points. Therefore, you should properly prepare for the independent installation of metal tiles, i.e. become familiar with the nuances of constructing a rafter structure, sheathing and roofing pie.

Rafter system and sheathing

Metal tiles are used in the construction of cold and insulated roofs. The rafter system for the cold type can be constructed from steel or aluminum elements. But wood is still a priority, because it is easier to attach covering sheets to it. Insulated structures require stronger rafter trusses, because thermal insulation will be located between their legs. The use of metal in such situations is impractical, so warm roofs are installed on wooden rafters with sheathing.

Please note that metal roofing can be installed on pitched roofs ah with a minimum slope slope of 14º. The optimal roof slope is considered to be from 15º to 20º.

In the construction of a rafter system for warm roof Metal tiles have their own rules, these are:

• The step between the rafter legs should not exceed 90cm. The minimum distance between rafters is 60cm. If the pitch of the existing rafter system is greater than the specified upper limit, an additional sheathing is installed from a transversely installed board.
• The rafter system is made of 50mm thick boards. The recommended board height is 100 or 150mm depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation.
• When laid in the spacer between the rafters, it should not come into contact with traditional waterproofing. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the transverse height of the board used in the construction of the rafter structure, then an additional counter batten measuring 30×50 or 50×50 is placed on the rafters along their direction. It will create a gap of 3-5cm.

In order to ensure ventilation of wooden elements, it is advisable to drill holes Ø 2-2.5 cm in the side rafter legs. Forming holes is an optional procedure, but strongly recommended by metal tile manufacturers. If there are concerns about the weakening of the structure, it is recommended to place them closer to the ridge in two or three rows with a step of 30 cm.

Before constructing the lathing, which acts as a basis for fastening sheets, you should check the geometric parameters of the rafter system. The lengths of the diagonals of the rectangular slopes should be measured and verified. On mansard roofs the lengths of the diagonals of each part of the slope separately. You need to check the horizontality of the overhangs and ridge, as well as the location of the outer surface of the rafter legs in the same plane. Timely identification of deviations in geometry will eliminate further errors.

Having convinced yourself of the geometric perfection of the trusses, you can begin to construct the sheathing, the construction of which, by analogy, has clear rules:

• The first batten - the lowest batten on the overhang should be higher than the subsequent row battens. To construct it, you need to take a block thicker than for ordinary laths. For example, for the bottom rail it is 50x50, and for all subsequent ones it is 30x50.
• The initial batten of the sheathing should be clearly parallel to the eaves line.
• The step between the first and second bars is 28 or 30 cm. The step between subsequent slats is 30, 35 or 40 cm. the pitch is determined by the distance between the transverse waves of the metal tile.
• During the installation of sheathing, through penetrations through the roof are taken into account and fastening devices for pipes are installed.
• In the gutters, around roof windows, chimneys, fan pipes and other pipes, a continuous sheathing of boards is installed.
• At the top of the slopes, two boards are nailed to the rafters to ensure reliable fixation of the eaves strip. The boards are installed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

Among other things, before installing the sheathing, all wooden components should be treated with an antiseptic and fire-retardant compound.

The lathing not only plays the role of a basis for fastening sheets, but at the same time performs another very important important work. It forms ventilation channels through which air flows circulate from the overhang to the ridge, and provides a ventilation gap between the waterproofing layer and the coating.

Ventilation ducts must remain free so that air can flow under the metal sheets and exit without interference. On the side of the overhangs and on the side of the ridge, they are simply covered with perforated tape, which prevents dust and debris from getting into the roofing pie.

Structural roofing boards

Eaves boards are used to strengthen the slope and give it rigidity if the roof is planned to be equipped with an organized drainage or hemmed overhangs vinyl siding. In situations where the hemming is done simply with a board, there is no need to use board reinforcement.

The eaves boards are laid along the overhangs in the grooves pre-selected in the rafters. The dimensions of the grooves must correspond to the dimensions of the board so that the overhang plane remains unchanged and the height of the rafter system does not increase. If you plan to install long hooks used to fix the gutter, grooves are cut out in the eaves board for their fastening. Hooks with a short leg are screwed only to the front board. They are used when the installation of a drainage system was not planned in advance and when repairing old roofs. The installation step of all types of hooks is equal to the step of the rafter legs.

A front board is used if the roof does not have an organized drainage system. It is attached to the ends of the rafters with galvanized nails. Serves as an element for fastening various roofing parts and accessories, including for hemming overhangs. The end board serves as the basis for the end strip, the latter covers the waterproofing laid on top of the board. In addition to its decorative function, the strip nailed to the end board prevents rattling of the roof.

Time to hem the overhangs

Coating manufacturers strongly advise lining overhangs with valves specially produced for this purpose, for example KTV or Vilpe. Siding, corrugated sheets or vinyl soffits are recommended for filing cornices. The extensions are sold complete with connecting parts and instructions. You can economically hem it with a board attached with a gap for roof ventilation.

Specifics of the roofing pie

The composition and structure of the roofing pie for metal tiles depends on whether the structure will be insulated or not. In the simplest non-insulated scheme, only a waterproofing film is used. A vapor barrier is used if the attic space is to be hemmed.

The insulated roofing pie includes three standard layers, these are:

• Vapor barrier. It is located on the side of the future intake of household fumes, i.e. from inside the rafter system. Its job is to protect the insulation from steam. Strips of vapor barrier material are laid parallel to the overhangs with an overlap of 10-15 cm. They are attached to the rafters with a stapler, and connected into a single sheet with adhesive tape. A gap should be created between the interior lining of the attic and the vapor barrier by installing sheathing.
• Thermal insulation. Mineral wool boards are most often used as insulation, the thickness of which is determined in accordance with the requirements of SNiP II-3-79. The material is installed between the rafter legs. To ensure rigidity of installation, the slabs are cut 1.5-2 cm wider than the distance between the rafters.
• Waterproofing. It is needed as a barrier against precipitation. They lay it on the outside of the rafter system before installing the sheathing; they try to install it immediately after laying the insulation, so as not to get wet. The waterproofing material is laid like a vapor barrier, in strips with similar overlaps and fastening methods.

The waterproofing layer is laid so that its sheet overlaps the perimeter wall lines by at least 20 cm. In areas where slopes meet and in valleys, laying is done with overlaps of 20-30 cm. The waterproofing must have a gap along the ridge line so as not to interfere with air circulation.

Important condition: Bituminous water-repellent materials cannot be used as waterproofing of the roofing pie when installing a metal tile roof. Waterproofing must allow steam and condensation accumulated in the insulation to pass through.

The method of installing a water-repellent layer depends on the material used:

• The classic version of waterproofing - reinforced or non-reinforced polyethylene film, which must be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first of them is formed by the rafter system and is located between the insulation and the film, the second is formed by the lathing and is located between the film and the roofing. The size of each gap is 3-5cm.
• The superdiffusion membrane can work perfectly with one ventilation gap 3-5cm wide. It is created between the membrane and metal tiles. When using a polymer material, there is no point in breaking the contact between the waterproofing and the insulation. After all, the membrane is capable of allowing excess moisture to pass out, preventing it from getting inside.
• Anti-condensation materials with a fleecy surface designed to accumulate moisture. Their pile is quickly ventilated when washed with air, which should be provided with a path. Therefore, this option also requires dual-circuit ventilation, like the classic. It is used mainly in the construction of cold roofs.

All types of insulating materials, except polymer waterproofing, are laid with sagging. This is necessary so that the film does not tear when tensioned. Only the membrane does not need to be laid with sagging - it has the property of stretching.

Around through passages through the roof, waterproofing is applied to the walls of communication pipes by 5-7 cm. Ideally, it is recommended to install an additional waterproofing layer around pipes and other weakened areas of the roof.

Installation of parts before laying the covering

Before laying metal tiles, the following must be installed:

• Eaves strips that prevent dust and debris from penetrating into the under-roof space. They are mounted on top of the ventilation tape attached to the ends and the legs of the drain hooks. The planks are attached to the front and cornice boards with self-tapping screws in 30cm increments. To prevent rattling from gusts of wind, these metal parts are installed with interference.
• Cornice drips, which are located under the waterproofing film. They are needed to remove moisture from the waterproofing.
• A lower valley that enhances protection for concave roof corners. It is a metal corner that follows the shape of the groove. Mounted on top of a continuous plank sheathing. The lower edge of the corner is located above the cornice board. In almost flat valleys, the boardwalk is equipped with an additional strip of waterproofing. The lower valley is screwed with self-tapping screws every 30cm. A porous seal is laid over the lower valley.
• Protective edge around chimney pipes crossing the roof. It is carried out using metal contour strips, the upper edge of which is attached to a groove formed in the pipe walls and treated with sealant. Drilling into the seam is prohibited! The same rules apply when arranging junctions with walls.
• Lightning rod required for safe operation metal roof.

The lightning rod system consists of three main parts. The first is an lightning rod, which is a steel or aluminum rod Ø 12 mm with a length of 20 cm to 1.5 m. The second component of the down conductor is a single-core steel or aluminum wireØ 6mm. The down conductor is laid along the sheathing and along the walls, leading to grounding. Grounding, the third part of the system, is an iron beam 1.5 m long buried at a depth of 1.5 m or a steel sheet with an area of ​​1 m × 1 m, for example.

Rules for laying metal tile sheets

Before laying the profiled sheets, it is necessary to arrange logs for transporting the material to the roof. In order not to lift the covering one sheet at a time, it is advisable to build racks for temporary storage. More home handyman You will need soft shoes, diligence and accuracy when moving along the roof. The work performer is only allowed to step into the deflections of the profiled waves.

When laying metal tiles, you can move either to the left or to the right from the first fixed sheet. The main thing is that the sheet laid on top overlaps the capillary groove. The guideline for choosing the laying direction is convenience. However, it is better to proceed in such a way that the element laid on top is immediately placed under the outermost wave of the previous one and snapped into place with a capillary groove. This will keep it in place and prevent it from slipping.

Typical installation sequence

Indisputable rules for installing metal tiles:

• The starting sheets are attached to the first lath through a wave on top of the transverse step of the covering. Their lower edge extends 5cm beyond the cornice.
• All subsequent fastenings of sheets are carried out in the recessions of the waves from the bottom of the transverse step.
• Along the end board, a profiled covering is attached in all waves.

Before fastening, you must carefully check the horizontal position of the sheet. After making sure that the installation is perfect, it is temporarily secured with one screw at the top edge in the center. Then lay the second sheet, level it and temporarily fix it in the same way. The aligned sheets are fastened together. Do the same with the third and fourth.

Screwing to the sheathing is carried out when a block of 3-4 sheets is laid and temporarily secured. Fix the block at all specified points. Only the outermost sheet is not screwed to the sheathing, so that it remains possible to connect it with the subsequent element.

The process of laying metal tile sheets in several rows differs only in that the rows of material must also be fastened to each other. Sheets increase in height vertically.

Profiled sheets are suitable for pitched roofs of any configuration. However, to properly install a hip or hip roof made of metal tiles, you will have to act according to a different scheme.

Installation of sheets on triangular slopes:

• We find the center of the overhang and draw the central axis through it.
• We take the first sheet and do the same actions with it.
• We combine the axes of the slope and the sheet in fact, checking the horizontal and vertical.
• Temporarily secure the sheet with a self-tapping screw in the center at the top edge.
• We install the sheets to the right and left of the central covering element using the usual method.

After fastening corrugated sheets the excess is trimmed off.

Convenience of cutting with marking of material for arranging valleys, triangular, trapezoidal and oblique slopes will be provided by a homemade “devil”. It is constructed from four boards 10 cm wide. The boards are arranged in parallel pairs and connected to each other according to the hinge principle. A simple device will help you accurately outline the segments to be cut.

Final installation work

After laying the wavy coating, you can begin with the finishing touches with a light heart:

• Install passage elements around pipes, antennas and other communications. All components of the roofing pie at the intersection points are sealed with adhesive tape. Butt seams are filled with sealant.
• Screw the end strip to the end board with self-tapping screws every 50-60cm.
• Screw on the top valley strip, first laying a self-expanding seal on the covering.
• Build a skate. To do this, the outside of the ridge area is covered with Metalroll or Figarol waterproofing. Ventilation ducts must remain open. The ridge is fixed to the sheathing with self-tapping screws; the fasteners should be screwed through the convex ridge. The ends of the ridge element are closed with plugs.

A drainage system, snow retainers, ladders for maintenance and fencing, if planned, are installed over the laid covering.

A detailed video instruction will be an excellent way to consolidate information about installing a durable metal roof on a roof with your own hands:

There are many nuances in installing a roof with metal tiles. However, there is nothing super complex in the technology. It is necessary to become familiar with the intricacies of the device and follow them so that you do not have to change the roof again to the next option.