Installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instructions with useful recommendations. Roofing made of modular metal tiles

Modular tiles are relative new look roofing covering. Its production began in 2010. The brands of European companies that are in greatest demand are: Venecja, Talia and Germania (produced by different companies in Poland), Finnera (Finland). The obvious difference from conventional steel sheets is their smaller dimensions. Manufacturers have significantly improved the quality of connections between fragments, simplified the installation process and extended service life. Even one person can handle the installation, and the guarantee reaches 50 years.

Characteristics and properties

Made from sheet steel 0.5-0.8 mm thick. Products are treated with several layers of protection: zinc and polymer decorative coating on the front side, galvanized and varnished on the inside. The fragments are connected to each other using additional bending at the upper and lower edges, thereby achieving absolute tightness. The mounting holes are already drilled at the factory.

There is a special type of modular tile - with hidden fastening. The fragments are connected with a Z-shaped lock, so that the screws are under the roofing sheet and are completely protected from atmospheric agents.

Finish coatings are resistant to any external influences. They have a high class of protection against UF rays and are not afraid of chemical compounds, sand, moisture, changes temperature regime. The difference in shades between products from different batches is strictly regulated, visual discrepancies in color are excluded.

Dimensions different manufacturers differ slightly. Dimensions of tiles from BudMat:

• width – 1190 mm (5 waves, 6 ridges);
• height – 736 mm (2 rows);
• usable area – 0.8 sq.m.;
• weight of one module – 3.7 kg;
• wave height – 26 mm.

The ridges are reinforced with stiffening ribs - they ensure the module’s resistance to high wind and snow loads. Thanks to the lock-type connections, finished roof It is a monolithic structure without horizontal and vertical joints visible to the eye.

Most in demand on construction market Venice metal tiles from the manufacturer Budmat have three types of coatings:

• X-Matt (thickness 30 microns) – matte, will last up to 50 years.
• D-Matt (35 microns) – fine-grained matte, 30 years of service.
• S-Pure – glossy, warranty period operation – 20 years.

The main differences between products from different manufacturers are the wave shape, the number of stiffeners and the quality of the finishing layer:

• The ridges of the Germania modules are reinforced with two vertical bends. Wide selection of shades and textures.
• Talia – without additional stiffeners. The polymer compositions for coloring are the same as for the previous type.
• Finnera – the wave shape resembles Venice, the ridge is reinforced with one fold. Finish coating– Purex.

The tiles are completed with additional elements: ridge strips, valleys, drainage systems. Transported to wooden pallets(European pallets) 350 pcs each with foam pads to maintain shape.

Advantages of modular roofing

• Convenience. Even one person can handle assembling a roof from small fragments with already prepared holes for self-tapping screws. They do not need to be adjusted, sizes from high accuracy factory calibrated.
• Minimum waste. Suitable for multi-slope, geometrically complex roofs; the amount of non-working trim will be small.
• Appearance. The wave shape and most coatings imitate natural tiles. The houses look expensive, presentable and unique.
• Tightness. A special connection system and recesses in the fastening area provide reliable protection from leaks, both at vertical and horizontal joints.
• Service life. No other material can boast a 30-50 year guarantee against the formation of through holes. The appearance is preserved for up to 25-40 years, depending on the type of polymer composition.

There is only one drawback - high cost. It is justified by the fact that the products are different high level quality, are transported over long distances and are already as ready for installation as possible; the builder only needs to screw in the fasteners. They do not have noise and heat insulation, but this problem can be easily solved by equipping the roofing pie with a layer of insulation.

Installation features

Installation of modular tiles is practically no different from other metal ones sheet materials. There are some nuances:

• The point of attachment to the sheathing is the lowest point of the wave; the self-tapping screw is screwed in with a slight indentation from the step of the next row. The frequency of the timber or board must be equal to the stamping step length. For BudMat it is 35 cm.
• For fastenings, it is necessary to use self-tapping screws with a press washer that match the color. It is more convenient to screw them in with a screwdriver. A screwdriver is acceptable, but the work time will increase significantly.
• For cutting, it is better to use special metal scissors (manual or electric). Disc tools are not suitable as they damage protective coating steel.

You will need a tape measure, a marker for marking, building level. Before starting work, you need to remove the protective film, if any, from the surface of the tiles, and place eaves drips and brackets under the gutters.

Installation steps:

• The first fragment is placed in the lower right corner of the roof, fixed along the edge and in the middle of each wave of the first row under the threshold of the tiles of the second.
• The second module is placed to the left of the first and is fixed with self-tapping screws.
• The third is installed above the first, first the screws are screwed into the locking joint, then to the sheathing, thus the entire roof is sheathed.
• Completion - installation of the ridge, valley, sealing of the openings of stove and fireplace pipes, construction of gutters.

If the modules had to be cut, the edge must be treated with paint to protect it from moisture and rust formation.

Review of the cost of tiles of popular brands

This material differs from other metal roofing coverings in its long service life without loss of appearance and attractive design. Original products have laser or stamped markings.

Roof made of BudMat metal tiles with an area of ​​100 sq. m. will cost at least 50 thousand rubles (only the cost is indicated, without additions and fasteners), but repairs will not be required for a long time. If one fragment is mechanically damaged, it can be replaced. To do this, it is not necessary to disassemble part of the structure; it is enough to unscrew only the damaged module and buy a new one in its place. A variety of shades and textures of coatings allows you to choose a material suitable for the exterior of the building that will last for several decades.

For arranging the roofing part in lately Metal tiles are increasingly being used. The material is supplied in the form of profiled sheets with a polymer coating. If you wish, you can install the metal tiles yourself. Step-by-step instructions will help you do this without serious mistakes.

Work on laying roofing fragments

The products are based on a steel sheet with a thickness of 0.45-0.55 mm. It is galvanized and has a special polymer-based coating. The cost of production may vary depending on the thickness of the metal and the type of protective layer.

List of advantages

First of all, it is necessary to highlight the following advantages:

• aesthetic appeal;
• weather resistance;
• affordable price;
• lightness of the main elements.

Pay attention! Polymer coatings perform not only a protective, but also a decorative function, since their colors can vary over a fairly wide range.

Few disadvantages

Since the sheets have a small thickness with sufficient large sizes, the risk of damaging them during careless installation still exists. If all the rules are followed, the integrity of the elements is difficult to violate.

Another disadvantage is the appearance of a noise effect when heavy rain during operation. However, with proper soundproofing of the living space, this disadvantage is completely eliminated.

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Tools for installation work

It is necessary to prepare in advance a set of tools and additional devices for the work:

Pay attention! It is forbidden to cut sheets using abrasive wheels, since high temperature exposure leads to the destruction of not only the polymer, but also the zinc layer.

Basic set of additional parts

The step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles should mention the main elements used in conjunction with the sheets. They are used depending on the roof configuration and operational features.

We suggest taking a look at the list of basic parts:

• a ridge is required to close the upper joint between two slopes;
• the end strip is necessary to decorate the edges on the side of the gable overhangs;
• the valley is installed in the places where the slopes combine;
• the cornice strip is attached to the side of the gutters;
• the junction strip is mounted in the presence of a pipe and other protruding structures;
• A snow retention element is needed to prevent snow from sliding off the roof.

Instructions for installing metal tiles: step-by-step work

Loading and unloading of products can be done manually, but during the work a certain number of people must be involved. Usually 1 person is required for 1.5-2 linear meters leaf length. That is, when unloading metal fragments with a length of 6 m, 3-4 people should be present.

Waterproofing device and fixation of control bars

If thermal insulation is laid between the rafters, then waterproofing material must be present in any case. It is attached with brackets to the load-bearing part of the roof. The canvases are spread across rafter legs with an overlap of at least 15 cm on all slopes.

50x50 mm bars are nailed directly onto the rafters, providing a ventilation gap between the waterproofing and the roofing material. For fixation, nails of at least 90 mm are used.

Correct installation of sheathing under metal tiles

An edged board 25 mm thick and 100 mm wide is usually used as lathing, but the final choice will depend on the pitch of the rafters. The elements are attached to 50x50 mm bars using nails no less than 70 mm long. The distance between the boards depends on the wavelength of the metal tile used.

In the place where the ridge element is installed, it is recommended to install two planks close to each other. This will simplify the installation of the ridge on the metal tiles. The same should be done at the places where the valleys are attached. The bottom board of the sheathing should be higher than the others by the height of the wave. Usually the thickness of the lining is enough to compensate for the difference.

Installation of parts mounted to sheets

To protect the ventilated space under the roof from the penetration of moisture and street debris, metal tile eaves strips are installed. A ventilation tape must additionally be attached to the ends of the 50x50 mm bars.

When installing the valley, a universal seal is laid. The bottom edge of the element should be on the surface of the cornice board. When joining horizontally, an overlap of at least 30 cm is made.

Lining a brick chimney involves extending the waterproofing membrane by at least 50 mm. A groove is made in the pipe itself, the depth of which should be at least 15 mm. Water is discharged into the valley located in the immediate vicinity.

The process of laying and fastening sheets

All sheets must be aligned horizontally with an extension of 50 mm beyond the sheathing. When fixing metal elements, the following points should be adhered to:

• the self-tapping screw must be installed in the deflection of the wave, where the sheet is adjacent to the sheathing;
• fastening to the bottom board is carried out above the step directly through the wave;
• along the edge of the slope, fasteners are screwed into each wave.

Installation of end strips and ridge

Elements for closing the end joints are mounted in the direction from the eaves overhang to the ridge. The overlap on adjacent planks should be 10 cm. The recommended spacing between fasteners is 35 cm.

As for the skate, it is fixed to the upper crest of every second wave. When building up elements, an overlap of at least 15 cm is left. Self-adhesive sealing tape is attached along the entire length.

Additional instructions for installing snow guards on metal tiles

The number of elements to hold snowdrifts on the roof is selected taking into account the geometry of the roof. In areas of heavy snow scraping, two rows of metal profiles can be installed. Snow guards pass type are the optimal solution for individual buildings. They are attached using long self-tapping screws to the sheathing itself through. The distance between fixation points usually ranges from 50-100 cm.

How to lay metal tiles correctly? This question is asked by almost all developers who have chosen this modern, practical and durable material. We will try to explain in as much detail as possible what technology for installing metal tiles is recommended by its manufacturers and what installation scheme for metal tiles is most preferable.

The main advantages of metal tile modules are good strength and high fire-fighting properties.

In addition, you will learn how the roofing “pie” works, what materials and tools will be needed when building a roof, and much more. We hope that our instructions for laying metal tiles will be useful to both developers and builders, regardless of whether you are building a house or making a shed from metal tiles.

Metal tiles: installation technology

A design made according to this scheme, with proper selection of materials, will provide you with a reliable and durable roof.

Briefly about the roofing “pie”. Before you start installing metal tiles (you can download the video or watch it below), let’s remember some concepts and a diagram of the roofing “pie”. It got its name because of the large number of layers that perform various functions. It is this design, with the proper selection of materials, that will provide you with a reliable and durable roof.

Regardless of whether you install metal tiles yourself or hire installers, it is important to clearly understand that the roof is quite complex design, during the construction of which it is necessary to strictly follow the recommendations for the installation of metal tiles given by manufacturers, as well as all building codes and regulations.

Always keep under control the entire installation of metal tiles (you can download or watch video instructions here), since the consequences of poor quality work may not appear immediately. Thus, poorly laid vapor and waterproofing can lead to the accumulation of condensation, deterioration of thermal insulation properties, and rotting of wooden structural elements. Keep in mind that only by following all the rules for installing metal tiles can you build a reliable and durable roof.

Metal tiles and installation structural elements is carried out according to the following sequence (scheme No. 1):

The technology for installing a metal tile roof requires mandatory protection of the insulation on the MC side using film waterproofing, and on the premises side - film vapor barrier.

1. Rafter system.
2. Counter rails.
3. Waterproofing film.
4. Vertical sheathing bars.
5. The initial bar of the horizontal sheathing.
6. Horizontal sheathing bars.
7. Additional sheathing.
8. Wind board.
9. Gutter bracket.
10. Cornice plank.
11. Metal tiles.
12. Roof ridge.
13. Ridge seal.
14. Dormer window.
15. Thermal insulation.
16. Vapor barrier.
17. Attic filing.

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Installation instructions for metal tiles (Monterrey and its analogues)

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Tools and equipment

Installation of Monterrey metal tiles and its analogues must begin with the preparation of the necessary tools. You will need:

1. Hand scissors for metal.
2. Hacksaw for metal (with fine teeth).
3. Perforated metal shears.
4. A special attachment for a drill for cutting metal.
5. Electric nibblers.
6. Jigsaw.
7. Circular saw.
8. Grinder with an abrasive wheel.

• tool for cutting sheets of metal tiles (MC);
• screwdriver (preferably cordless);
• medium sized hammer;
• a long, even strip or rule;
• marker.

• metal scissors (manual and electric);
• a hacksaw or electric reciprocating saw with appropriate blades;
• electric cutting shears;
• jigsaw;
• circular saw with pobedit teeth.

Upon completion of work, carefully remove metal filings, otherwise they will rust and damage the polymer coating of the MP.

Attention! Under no circumstances should you cut metal tiles with tools equipped with abrasive wheels (“grinder”). Otherwise under the influence high temperatures Not only the polymer layer will be destroyed, but also the zinc coating. The result will be disappointing: a rapid rusting process will begin, and rusty streaks will appear on your roof.

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Installation of metal tiles (Monterey and analogues)

If thermal insulation boards have already been purchased, then the pitch of the rafters will depend on their width, since the insulation will subsequently be inserted between the roof rafters.

The pitch of the rafters for metal tiles should be in the range of 550-900 mm. Keep in mind that if you have already purchased thermal insulation boards, the pitch of the rafters will depend on their width, since the insulation will subsequently be inserted between the roof rafters. As a rule, timber with a cross section of 150x50 mm is chosen as the material for rafters.

After the rafters are installed, it is necessary to take control measurements of the slopes. Check the squareness and flatness of the structure; to do this, measure the diagonals of the slopes. Small deviations (up to 10 mm) are acceptable; they can later be hidden with additional elements.

Please note that if metal tiles are used for the roof, the slope of the slope must be at least 14°. The length of the sheets is determined by the main size - the length of the slope. It is measured from the ridge to the eaves, taking into account the eaves overhang (at least 40 mm). If your slope is more than 6 m long, then the sheets must be divided into two or more pieces, which are then laid overlapping. The overlap of metal tiles should be about 150 mm. Of course, when using long sheets There are fewer joints on the slope, but they are much more difficult to lay than short ones.

The length of the insulation should be 2–3 cm greater than the distance between the rafters.

With daily temperature changes of bottom surface Condensation may appear. Also, warm air from the house, containing moisture vapor, penetrates into the cold under-roof space. Excess moisture leads to moistening of the insulation layer, and consequently, its thermal characteristics deteriorate. As a result, the roof freezes, ice forms on the metal tiles, rafters and sheathing rot, mold appears and collapses. interior decoration premises.

To avoid all these troubles, the installation manual for metal tiles from any manufacturer strongly recommends using insulation of the required thickness. In addition, the technology for installing a metal tile roof requires mandatory protection of the insulation on the MC side using film waterproofing, and on the premises side - film vapor barrier.

To remove moisture vapor from the under-roof space, it is necessary to create natural ventilation, that is, to ensure free movement of air from the roof eaves to its ridge. To do this, free space (about 40 mm) is left between the MP and the waterproofing film using lathing. When filing them, gaps are left on the eaves overhangs, and special holes are opened in the rubber seal of the ridge.

Roll out the waterproofing horizontally along the rafters. Start from the eaves, making a sag of about 20 mm. Make an overlap between adjacent panels (approximately 150 mm). Place films of the Yutafol or Yutakon brand outward with the side that has a colored stripe along the edge. It is not allowed to turn the film over. On the market today you can find a sufficient number of certain roofing films. Consult with managers about the specifics of their use.

1. Rafter leg.
2. Waterproofing material.
3. Counter-lattice.
4. Lathing.

After installing the waterproofing material, you can simultaneously lay the roofing outside and thermal insulation inside the building. Install thermal insulation boards between the rafters, leaving a gap of at least 20 mm for waterproofing “Yutafol” or “Yutakon”, otherwise the film will lose its properties. If you purchased Tyvek or Yutavek film, there is no need to create a gap.

On internal surfaces Use a stapler to secure the vapor barrier “Utafol H Silver” or “Utafol H 110” to the rafters. Lay the vapor barrier sheets overlapping, sealing them tightly with adhesive tape. After completing this stage of work, you can begin interior cladding (if it is an attic floor).

The lathing is made from antiseptic-treated beams with a cross-section of 50x50 mm and edged boards 32x100 mm (approximate values). First, nail the falling beams onto the rafters on top of the waterproofing film from the ridge to the eaves, and then attach the sheathing boards to them.

Take the first sheathing board (counting from the eaves) thicker than the others (about 10-15 mm). Now the most important thing is to maintain the required distances between the boards. If you have Monterrey metal tiles, the installation of the second board should be carried out, stepping back from the bottom edge of the first board 300 mm (measure to the middle of the second board being nailed).

Before installing the metal tiles, at the internal junction of the slopes, the bottom valley strip is attached to the continuous sheathing with self-tapping screws. If the planks need to be joined, an overlap is made (100-150 mm).

The same distance for the MP Maxi MC is 350 mm. The center-to-center distance of all subsequent sheathing boards (32x100 mm) for the Monterey or Supermonterey MP is 350 mm, for the Maxi MP - 400 mm. If you have made a rafter pitch of more than 1000 mm, use sheathing boards of greater thickness.

Perform continuous sheathing in valleys, near chimneys, along the perimeter of attic and dormer windows. On both sides of the ridge, nail two additional edged boards, and raise the end strips above the ordinary sheathing to a height equal to the height of the MCH profile.

Before installing the metal tiles, secure the bottom valley strip at the internal joint of the slopes onto the continuous sheathing using self-tapping screws. If the planks need to be joined, make an overlap (about 100-150 mm). Then mark and trim (if necessary) the sheets of MP. Install metal tiles from bottom to top.

On top of the junction of sheets (it rarely looks beautiful) install decorative element– the top bar of the valley. Attention! The junction points are the weakest point of the roof. Therefore, to avoid having to repair metal tiles later, be especially careful when installing them.

To ensure a tight connection of the MP roof to the chimneys and walls, an internal apron is installed on the slope. Use the lower abutment strips to make it. Place the lath against the pipe wall and mark the top edge of the lath on the brick. Then, using a grinder, punch a groove along the marked line. After finishing the gating, remove the dust and rinse the working area of ​​the wall with water.

Start installing the inner apron from the pipe wall located on the underside of the slope (on the side of the eaves, not the ridge). Cut the plank into place, install and secure with self-tapping screws. Using the same principle, install the apron on all remaining sides of the pipe. If you have to join the planks, make an overlap (about 150 mm). Treat the grooved edge of the apron silicone sealant(it is better if it is colorless).

Attach the gutter holders to the bottom board of the sheathing. Their mounting method and pitch are determined by the type of drainage system used.

Then place a flat sheet, called a tie, under the lower edge of the inner apron, which will ensure water drainage. Direct the tie either into the valley or down to the roof eaves. Create a bead along the edge of the tie using pliers and a hammer.

Mount the MC sheets on top of the apron and tie. After you put it down roof covering around chimney, proceed to the manufacture and installation of an external apron. To make it, use the upper abutment strips. Install them in the same way as the lower ones, only do not insert the upper edge into the groove, but attach it directly to the wall.

Attention! All movements on the roof made of MP must be carried out only in compliance with safety measures. Wear soft, comfortable, non-slip shoes. Step only into the trough of the wave. Put on the installer's belt and fasten the safety lanyard.

Attach the gutter holders to the bottom board of the sheathing. Their mounting method and pitch are determined by the type of drainage system used. Therefore, please read the instructions that come with it. Special attention Pay attention to the location of the edge of the gutter. It should be 25-30 mm below the edge of the metal tile. This is necessary to maintain the integrity of the gutters when layers of snow fall off the roof.

If drainage system has rectangular section, the gutter is simply inserted and secured in the holders. Cornice strip is attached to the roof sheathing, with the bottom edge of the lath overlapping the edge of the gutter. The waterproofing film is installed above the eaves strip (to drain condensate).

When installing the gutter round section you need to insert its rear edge into the locking protrusion on the holder. The cornice strip is installed according to the above method. The under-roof film is also installed above the eaves strip.

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Installation of metal tiles - instructions for installing roof windows

The number of windows required for a comfortable level of illumination in the attic can be determined by the ratio of the usable glazing area to the area of ​​the room. Recommended values ​​are between 1:8 and 1:12.

Let's make a small digression and consider the option of a roof with dormer windows. The number of windows required for a comfortable level of illumination in the attic can be determined by the ratio of the usable glazing area to the area of ​​the room. Recommended values ​​are between 1:8 and 1:12. That is, if your attic has an area of ​​100 sq.m., then total area windows should be 10 sq.m. It is recommended to install roof windows at a height of 90-110 cm from the floor level. When choosing windows, also keep in mind that two small windows located at some distance will provide more light than one large one.

In addition, you can install roof windows in groups, horizontally, vertically or in combination. As a rule, windows are installed on the sheathing with simultaneous fastening to the rafter beams. Although there may be some peculiarities depending on the manufacturer skylights. If the horizontal dimensions of the window do not coincide with the pitch of the rafters, a partial change in the rafter structure will be required. In this case, it is recommended to install a rafter fragment and additional horizontal counter-battens to secure it. The opening for the window should exceed its dimensions by 40-60 mm in the horizontal plane and 45 mm in the vertical plane. Typically, installing roof windows is not difficult, since each window has detailed instructions on installation.

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The first sheet is aligned with the end of the roof and secured with one self-tapping screw in the upper part. In this case, a canopy of metal tiles (removal) of about 40 mm is made at the cornice.

Align the first sheet with the end of the roof and secure it with one self-tapping screw in the upper part. At the same time, make a canopy of metal tiles (offset) of about 40 mm at the cornice. Lay the second sheet overlapping the first (if you are installing from right to left) or place the edge of the second sheet under the first - when installing from left to right.

Connect the sheets together with self-tapping screws in the upper part of the overlap, but do not screw them to the sheathing and provide them with the ability to move relative to the self-tapping screw holding the first sheet in the upper, ridge part.

Place the third sheet in the same way as the second. Align all three sheets connected to each other parallel to the cornice. If it is necessary to join sheets along the length, lay them in the order shown in Figure B. Attention! If your metal tile is equipped protective film, be sure to remove it during installation.

Secure the lower part of the sheet with self-tapping screws into the base of the MCH wave. Step through the wave. Arrange the subsequent rows of screws in a checkerboard pattern, also alternating them through the wave. Fasten the side overlaps of the sheets with self-tapping screws along each ridge. The estimated consumption of self-tapping screws when installing metal tiles is 6-8 pieces/sq.m of roof covering.

Attention! When purchasing metal tiles, check with the supplier for warranty conditions. The fact is that some manufacturers provide a guarantee for MP only if they use self-tapping screws of a strictly defined brand. Therefore, advice: buy self-tapping screws from a metal tile supplier.

At the ends of the roof, install end strips with an overlap of 50 mm. Secure them with self-tapping screws every 550-600 mm. Use self-tapping screws 80 mm long at the top, and 28 mm long at the sides. Trim the slats if necessary.

A shaped seal must be placed under the ridge, having previously cleared the ventilation holes.

Ridge strips can be flat or round. Start installing the round ridge strip by securing flat or conical plugs to its ends using self-tapping screws or rivets (choose their shape in accordance with the shape of your roof). For a flat ridge, caps are not required.

Place a shaped seal under the ridge, first clearing the ventilation holes. Install a flat or round ridge on the laid seal. Place ridge screws 80 mm long through the wave of the MC. Make an overlap of 100 mm between the individual ridge panels.

At roofing work The hardest part is covering a complex roof. Here you need to choose the right material. One of the best options is modular metal tiles. Mount it on the roof complex configuration even one person can do it. What are the other advantages of modular metal tiles, and what are the nuances of its application?

Features of the material

Modular metal tiles are increasingly gaining popularity. Manufacturers offer many types of this modern roofing material. But they all have one main feature in common. Modular metal tiles are produced not in sheets, the length of which sometimes reaches 6-8 meters, but in small modules, hence the name. In terms of other characteristics, this type of roofing material does not differ from similar types.

Modular metal tiles have the following positive qualities:

• Easy to transport and store. Venice modular metal tiles, and this brand is considered the most popular, has a sheet width of just over a meter and a length slightly less. Such small dimensions make it easy to transport and store the material;
• Small dimensions speed up the installation of modular metal tiles. In addition, such small dimensions allow one person to work on laying roofing material, without the involvement of assistants;
• A number of manufacturers, including the Venice brand, provide special grooves and protrusions on each module. This simplifies the “adhesion” of sheets of material and also speeds up installation;
• Another important advantage is waste minimization. When, especially if the roof is complex, there is always a lot of trimmings. This happens due to the fact that you have to “adjust” the drawing. In the case of modular metal tiles, there will be much less such waste. This means that financial costs will be less.

In addition, do not forget about the “usual” advantages of this type of roofing material. Metal tiles are durable, strong and lightweight. This material also has an attractive appearance.


If we talk about shortcomings, then he can be said to be the only one. Modular metal tiles are quite expensive. Of course, a lot depends on the manufacturer. How better quality material, the more expensive it is. For example, the Venice brand is considered expensive. But this minus is easily compensated by its long service life, practicality and attractive appearance.

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Characteristics

Modular metal tiles are produced by several manufacturers. But the differences in the products themselves are minor. The most popular brand is Venice. Its characteristics are as follows:

1. The total width of one module is 1190 millimeters. This parameter is taken into account during transportation and storage.
2. The useful width of the sheet is 1150 millimeters. It is this value that should be taken into account when calculating the amount of material to cover the roof.
3. The height of the wave or profile is 26 millimeters. These dimensions are sufficient to give the sheet the required bending strength.
4. The length of the module is 736 millimeters. If we talk about the useful value of this parameter, then it is equal to 70 centimeters.
5. The size of one “tile” or wavelength is 35 centimeters. It is this value that is taken into account when choosing.
6. The area of ​​the entire module is 0.8 square meters. Knowing this parameter, you can easily calculate the required amount of material to cover the roof. Just be sure to add 10-15 percent.

Another important characteristic is the weight of the module. It is 3.7 kilograms. This means that a square meter of modular metal roofing will weigh less than 4 kilograms.

What you will need for installation

Laying modular metal tiles is not too different from the usual version of this roofing material. First you need to prepare everything necessary tools and devices. For installation you will need the following:

In addition, the modular metal tile itself should be prepared. Most manufacturers cover it with film to protect the polymer layer from damage during storage and transportation. It needs to be torn off before.

Laying

Venice metal tiles or another brand of modular material of this type are installed in almost the same way as regular ones. But there are also some nuances. The installation itself is carried out in the following sequence:

The modern building materials market is replete with various new products that are designed to improve the tightness and extend the service life of the roof. When making their choice, homeowners strive to choose high-quality coating, meeting the highest requirements.

The latest trend in private housing construction is modular metal tiles, optimal for covering complex roof. She has it all positive qualities metal roofing materials, such as lightness, corrosion resistance and high strength, but at the same time very aesthetic, convenient for installation. In this article we will look at all the advantages and disadvantages of modular metal tiles, features of the technology for its installation and operation.

Modular metal tiles are a modern roofing material that visually resembles conventional metal tiles. The difference is that it is not produced in sheet form. large size, but in the form of small modules that are easily attached to each other using self-tapping screws during the installation process.

The profile of modular metal tiles is wavy, it can have different shape and height, which determines the appearance of the product. Roofing sheets may have different colors outer covering. Starting from brown to blue or red.

The structure of modular metal tile sheets is multilayer, it consists of several components: a base made of high-alloy steel with increased resistance to corrosion, a primer and an external polymer coating, protecting against mechanical damage and giving an aesthetic appearance.

An anti-corrosion primer is applied to the bottom of the coating, which also protects against metal destruction under the influence of moisture. This structure makes modular metal tiles one of the most popular materials for laying a roof with your own hands.

Leaf structure

Important! A distinctive feature of this material is the versatility of roofing elements. Sheets of material can be easily joined and fastened together thanks to the provided mounting holes, which have small recesses necessary for improved waterproofing of the joints.

Characteristics

Metal roofing is a durable, airtight, durable coating that significantly exceeds building materials previous generation, thanks to its performance characteristics.

This coating is used for a small roof area, the design of which is complicated a large number slopes, gables, roof windows, chimneys and other architectural details. Metal tiles have the following characteristics:

• The profile height of the metal roofing module is 40-60 mm. The higher the wave height of the coating, the stronger it is and the better it removes atmospheric moisture. On the other hand, the height of the profile affects the usable area of ​​the sheet.
• The module length is 700 mm.
• The useful width of the sheet is 1100 mm.
• The total area of ​​one coating module is 0.87 square meters. Usable area the overlap taking into account the overlap is slightly smaller, it is only 0.77 square meters.
• The modules weigh on average 3.5-4 kg, depending on the width and thickness of the steel blank and polymer coating.

Please note that the sheet size of modular metal tiles is optimal for covering roofs of a small area with complex shape. An additional bonus for those who are thinking about choosing this coating is that manufacturers provide a guarantee for it for a period of 30-50 years, depending on the quality and cost of their products.

Advantages of the material

Many homeowners are increasingly installing modular metal tiles, abandoning cheaper materials. The main advantage of this technological coating is that it was simply created to make it easier to install the roof yourself. Strengths modular metal profiles are considered:

1. Light weight. Modular metal tiles are a lighter roofing material. The weight of one element does not exceed 4 kg, so its installation does not require reinforcement rafter system and lathing.
2. Optimal size. The small size of the individual parts of the metal tile simplifies the cutting of the covering, and also reduces the amount of residues and trimmings, which ultimately has a positive effect on the consumption of roofing material.
3. Simplicity of installation technology. Re-roofing is not an easy task; usually, such work is carried out by experienced craftsmen, as well as special equipment, scaffolding is installed. Small size and light weight module allows you to install it yourself almost alone.

Remember that high-quality modular metal tiles can last more than 50 years if installation is carried out according to technology, and periodic preventive maintenance is carried out during operation.

Disadvantages of the material

Since modular roofing is quite expensive, professional craftsmen carefully studied its characteristics before recommending it to our customers. According to reviews from professionals, this roofing material has significantly fewer disadvantages than advantages. These include:

• High price. The price of modular-type tiles “Monterrey” and “Monterrey-super” is higher than that of conventional metal tiles. It costs more due to more complex and precise production technology, as well as due to the high cost of high-quality raw materials.
• A large number of joints. Since the module area is less than 1 square meter, as a result, the coating has a large number of horizontal and vertical joints. However, due to the special design, the sheets fit tightly to each other, creating an airtight layer.

Please note that a high-quality and durable coating can only be obtained if you fully comply with the technology for laying modular tiles, observing the sequence and relative position layers roofing pie.

Installation

To avoid any difficulties during installation, the manufacturer's instructions describe each step of the installation technology, answering which insulation is best to choose, which waterproofing and vapor barrier to use. The work is carried out in the following order:

1. First, a waterproofing film is laid directly on top of the rafter legs. It is rolled out in strips with an overlap of 15-20 cm. For better waterproofing the joints can be glued.
2. Sheathing slats are installed perpendicular to the rafters. The first batten is installed 3-5 cm higher so that it is covered by the outer edge of the module.
3. Counter battens are fixed on top of the sheathing along the rafter legs.
4. First, the starting coating module is fixed, then the next one left side from him. Next, the sheet located above the starting one is laid, after which they move on to the fourth element, located above the second.

Important! There are popular posts on the Internet where bitumen and modular shingles are cut with a grinder. Actually use grinding machines These materials are not suitable for cutting, since the abrasive effect on them causes sparks to burn micro-holes in the protective layer.

Video instructions